Best Halal Hainanese Food in Malaysia, Singapore and Brunei: Chicken Rice, Kopitiam and Nanyang Cafes
Reposted from the web
Summary: This halal Hainanese food guide follows the first half of a trip through Malaysia, Singapore, and Brunei, covering chicken rice, kopitiam cafes, noodles, seafood, and Nanyang-style Muslim-friendly restaurants.
Malaysia
The Chicken Rice Shop in Kuala Lumpur
Oriental Kopi at Kuala Lumpur Airport
Hua Mui Restaurant in Johor Bahru
Yut Loy Coffee Shop in Kuala Kangsar
Sin Hua Air-Conditioned Restaurant in Kota Bharu
Fook Yuen Coffee Shop in Kota Kinabalu
Yit Chang Coffee Shop in Kota Kinabalu
Yee Fung Coffee Shop in Kota Kinabalu
Ling Long Seafood in Kuching
Rex Restaurant in Singapore
Ying Chew Restaurant in Brunei
Babu's Kitchen in Brunei
Mei Guang Coffee Shop in Brunei
Malaysia
The Chicken Rice Shop in Kuala Lumpur
After getting off the plane at Kuala Lumpur Airport, we take the airport express train to the final stop, KL Sentral. Once we go upstairs, we are at the Nu Sentral shopping mall. We eat there almost every time we visit Kuala Lumpur. There are many types of restaurants in the mall. There are three halal Nyonya cuisine restaurants alone, and many other halal Chinese restaurants.
This time, we ate at the famous halal Hainanese chicken rice chain in Malaysia, The Chicken Rice Shop. The founder, Wong Kah Bee, was once an executive director at KFC Malaysia. She had worked in the fast-food industry for 25 years before starting her own business. In 2000, 54-year-old Wong Kah Bee and her daughter, Wong Jia Lian, opened the first The Chicken Rice Shop in Taipan, Selangor, officially launching their halal Hainanese chicken rice brand.
Wong Kah Bee's parents were from Penang and her grandmother was from Hainan. She loved Hainanese chicken rice very much since she was a child. During the 20th century, Hainanese chicken rice was mostly sold at food stalls, and almost none of it was halal. When Wong Kah Bee and her daughter started the business, they had a clear goal: to bring Hainanese chicken rice into shopping malls with clean, comfortable, and independent storefronts suitable for family meals, and to make it halal food for everyone. Today, The Chicken Rice Shop has 135 locations, making it the largest halal Hainanese chicken rice chain in Malaysia. Led by them, halal Chinese food is growing in Malaysia, allowing friends (dosti) from all over the world to enjoy delicious Chinese cuisine here.
We ordered a set meal for three, which included Nyonya top hats (pai tee), mango salad, roasted chicken, Hainanese curry chicken, okra, wolf herring fish balls (sai tou yu wan), and rice. We also ordered an extra side of roasted tofu, which was perfect for our family. Top hats (pai tee) are a classic snack for weddings and New Year celebrations among the Peranakan Chinese in Malaysia. They originated in Singapore, where they are also called little gold cups (xiao jin bei), and are filled with shredded carrots and white radishes. Wolf herring fish balls (sai tou yu wan) are Teochew-style fish balls made from wolf herring, and they are very popular in Malaysia.
Oriental Kopi at Kuala Lumpur Airport
Taking a car from Malacca back to Kuala Lumpur Airport, the most popular restaurant at Terminal 2 is the Hainanese coffee shop chain Oriental Kopi (huayang). There is almost always a line whenever you go.
They have a huge variety of dishes and are currently one of the most famous halal Hainanese coffee shops. Hainanese people began immigrating to Malaysia in the 19th century. Many early immigrants worked as chefs and servers in British hotels and restaurants, while some worked as servants for British officers. Influenced by their British employers, the Hainanese learned to cook Western food and combined it with Hainanese culinary elements to create the unique Hainanese coffee shop (Hailam Kopitiam) culture.
We ordered flaky egg tarts, pineapple buns with butter (bing huo bo luo bao), Hainanese chicken rice, classic mee siam, curry fish balls, coffee, soy milk with grass jelly, and longan sea coconut sweet soup (tang shui). The coffee, flaky egg tarts, and pineapple buns with butter are known as the 'Oriental Kopi Three Treasures' and make a classic Nanyang breakfast combination. Their flaky egg tarts are indeed well-made, with a very tender egg custard and a rich aroma. Their sweet soup (tang shui) is also delicious. We rarely drank sweet soup in the north, so it felt very authentic to the Nanyang style.
However, their Hainanese chicken rice was not good. The quality of the rice seemed poor, and it felt gritty, lacking the texture of rice at other places.
Hua Mui Restaurant in Johor Bahru
We took the train from Woodlands, Singapore, in the morning and arrived at the Johor Bahru station in Malaysia in 5 minutes. We walked from the Johor Bahru station to the old town to visit Restoran Hua Mui to experience an authentic Hainanese coffee shop (Hailam Kopitiam).
Restoran Hua Mui opened in 1946 and has a 78-year history, making it the oldest Hainanese coffee shop in Johor Bahru. Like many old-school Hainanese coffee shops in Malaysia, although the owner is Hainanese Chinese, they hire Malay chefs and staff so that Chinese, Malay, and Indian customers can all enjoy the food.
The term coffee shop (kopitiam) is made up of the Malay word 'kopi' (coffee) and the Hokkien word 'tiam' (shop), specializing in charcoal-grilled toast, white coffee, and soft-boiled eggs. Early Hainanese coffee shops were very popular with the British. Today, they have become places where older people discuss news and daily life, serving as important social hubs.
At Hua Mui, we ordered mutton stew rice, Hainanese noodles, coffee and tea mix (cham c), and a breakfast platter. Coffee and tea mix (cham c) is just coffee, tea, and milk. The restaurant's setting is still very traditional, with a classic two-story arcade building (qilou) and bamboo curtains hanging on the doors and windows, easily bringing to mind the old days.
Yut Loy Coffee Shop in Kuala Kangsar
Taking the train north from Ipoh, it is a 30-minute ride to Kuala Kangsar District. Kuala Kangsar has been the royal city of the Sultan of Perak since the 18th century. The town center still keeps an old street of arcade buildings, where you can find an old-school Hainanese coffee shop called Yut Loy Coffee Shop (Yue Lai Cha Shi). The Hainanese owner hires Malay staff here, allowing the three major ethnic groups—Chinese, Malay, and Indian—to all dine in the shop.
Since Yut Loy Coffee Shop only serves main meals after 1:00 PM, we spent the morning there having coffee with toast, topped with honey and butter. In Nanyang-themed novels, I often read about old people sitting in these Hainanese coffee shops all morning with a cup of coffee, a piece of toast, and a newspaper. This time, we got to experience it ourselves.
Sin Hua Air-Conditioned Restaurant in Kota Bharu
Hainanese people are an important part of the Chinese community in Kelantan. We ate at the Sin Hua Air-Conditioned Restaurant, a long-standing Hainanese eatery in Kota Bharu with over 50 years of history. We had Hainanese chicken chop, Hainanese noodles, and toasted bread, all of which are authentic Nanyang Hainanese dishes. Next door, there is also a Sin Shing Coffee Shop (Xin Cheng Cha Can Shi), which is said to have the best Hainanese chicken rice in Kota Bharu.
Fook Yuen Coffee Shop in Kota Kinabalu
Although there are many Hakka and Hokkien people on Gaya Street in Kota Kinabalu, the restaurants are still mostly run by Hainanese people. I started my morning with breakfast at Fook Yuen Coffee Shop (Fuyuan Cha Canting), which is very popular and crowded with tourists. Ordering is semi-self-service. They offer Cantonese-style congee and dim sum, Malay coconut milk rice (nasi lemak), and Western-style bread and coffee, meeting the needs of all ethnic groups in Malaysia. I had a serving of Hainanese chicken rice, two portions of steamed dumplings (shaomai), and a glass of iced milk tea. Their chicken rice is a modified version; they add dried small fish to the rice, a style that should be more popular with Malay customers.
Yit Chang Coffee Shop in Kota Kinabalu
Opened in 1896, Yee Fung Coffee Shop (Yue Chang Cha Shi) is the oldest Hainanese restaurant in Kota Kinabalu, with a history even longer than the city itself. The shop was originally located at the headquarters of the British North Borneo Chartered Company on Gaya Island. After the settlement on the island was destroyed in 1898 by an anti-British uprising led by the indigenous leader Mat Salleh, the shop moved to its current location on Gaya Street. You could say Yee Fung Coffee Shop has witnessed the entire transformation of Kota Kinabalu. Old photos hang on their walls, including one from the 1960s showing Yee Fung Coffee Shop in the exact same spot as today.
The shop is divided into two sections, with the Hainanese owner personally making coffee and toasting bread. The owner is very enthusiastic, provides excellent service, and speaks great Korean, which helps him attract many Korean guests. Another stall invites Muslim sisters to make Hainanese beef offal noodles (niuzamian) and various Malay dishes, which is a major feature of traditional Hainanese coffee shops. To attract customers from all ethnic groups, they must make food that suits everyone's taste. This is why many long-standing Hainanese restaurants in Malaysia have been open for decades or even a century.
We ordered white coffee, three-layer coffee, monk fruit herbal tea (luohanguo liangcha), oats, toast, and beef offal noodles. Monk fruit herbal tea and barley water (yimi shui) are really perfect for the weather here.
Yee Fung Coffee Shop in Kota Kinabalu
The most popular halal Chinese restaurant on Gaya Street in Kota Kinabalu is Yee Fung Tea House. The owner of Yee Fung Tea House, Zhuang Qiuwang, is from Johor. He started selling laksa on Gaya Street in 1984, which is exactly 40 years ago. Like many halal Chinese restaurants in Malaysia, they hire Muslim chefs and staff to ensure the ingredients are halal.
Their signature dishes are the "three treasures": laksa, claypot chicken rice, and beef offal. We ordered lettuce with oyster sauce, plain beef offal, plain fish balls, and chicken wonton noodles. Hainanese beef offal mainly includes beef balls, beef tripe, stewed beef, and beef slices. Many Hainanese restaurants in Kota Kinabalu serve it, and it is a major local specialty. Authentic Hainanese beef offal does not use MSG. It relies purely on spices to stew out the flavor, so you do not feel thirsty after eating it.
Ling Long Seafood in Kuching
I strongly recommend the Top Spot Food Court in the city center to friends (dosti) visiting Kuching. It is a Chinese halal seafood city with a Nanyang style. The food court is open from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. It looks like a very plain parking garage from the outside, but once you take the elevator to the top floor, you enter a very lively seafood open-air food court. Most of the stalls in the food court are Chinese-run with halal certifications. Various fish, shrimp, and vegetables are displayed openly, so you can pick whatever you want to eat.
We chose a stall called "Ling Long Seafood." The lady who took our order is Hainanese. Hainanese people running halal Chinese restaurants in Malaysia is also a major feature. The lady spoke great Mandarin and enthusiastically helped us order according to our needs. We ordered Sarawak-style stir-fried midin (a type of fern) with shrimp paste and stir-fried mani cai (a local vegetable) with eggs. Their stir-fried dishes come in small, medium, and large sizes, so even one person can eat very well.
Midin is a fern native to Borneo. It is not bitter at all when stir-fried and has a very fresh fragrance. Mani cai, also known as star gooseberry leaves, is a wild vegetable that Sarawak Hakka people love to cook. You can find it in homes and small restaurants. The picked mani cai leaves must be crushed in water and drained to remove toxins, and the small stems must be picked out before stir-frying, so it is much more troublesome than other vegetables.
For seafood, we ordered lokan (white clams), sea shrimp, and seven-star grouper. The waiter told us which ones were the freshest and which were frozen. After we ordered, the food was indeed very delicious. Since this is a food court by the sea in the city center, I am not sure if other stalls overcharge, but I think this one offers good value for money. In the end, our five dishes, rice, and 6% sales tax cost 313 RMB in total. Small stir-fried dishes were 24 RMB each, a seven-star grouper was 148 RMB, though they have cheaper fish too. A plate of sea shrimp was 48 RMB, and a plate of clams was 40 RMB.
Rex Restaurant in Singapore
If you visit the National Museum of Singapore and Fort Canning Park, it is well worth going to the nearby MacKenzie Rex Restaurant to taste authentic halal Hainanese chicken rice. MacKenzie Rex Restaurant opened in 1966. It is the first and most famous halal Hainanese chicken rice restaurant in Singapore. The owner is a Hainanese Chinese who speaks good Mandarin and is happy to introduce dishes to guests. Besides Hainanese chicken rice, they are also good at making various home-style Chinese dishes, known in Singapore as Zi char (home-style stir-fry).
We ordered the classic chicken rice and five-spice meat rolls (Ngor Hiang per roll), plus stir-fried mixed vegetables and fish soup. Everything was delicious, and it was arguably the best meal of our Singapore trip. The best part of their chicken rice is not the chicken itself, but the rice steamed with chicken fat. You can eat it plain and never want to stop. The halal version of the five-spice meat roll adds five-spice powder to the chicken filling, which is then wrapped in bean curd skin and deep-fried. It is very fragrant when freshly fried.
Ying Chew Restaurant in Brunei
When traveling in Brunei, you must visit the most famous legendary Hainanese teahouse, Ying Chew (Yingzhou Hao).
The founder of Ying Chew, Han Qiongyuan, was from Wenchang, Hainan. During the Japanese invasion of China in 1939, 17-year-old Han Qiongyuan traveled to Southeast Asia and arrived in Brunei to work as a helper in his uncle's coffee shop. In 1946, Han Qiongyuan officially opened Ying Chew Teahouse, selling coffee, bread, and other food. It became widely known for its longevity bread (Roti Kuning). As the teahouse business grew, Han Qiongyuan expanded into real estate and led the construction of the Brunei Hainan Building. After 1993, Han Qiongyuan returned to his hometown every year to visit relatives and invested heavily there. He was awarded the title of 'Patriotic Hainanese' by Hainan Province three times.
Like many old-fashioned Nanyang Hainanese teahouses, they serve halal food and have Brunei halal certification, making them popular with all ethnic groups. They have a very rich variety of bread. The most classic sandwich breads come in four flavors: peanut, red bean paste, butter, and coconut. There are also peanut and kaya mix bread, cheese bread, yellow bread with kaya and butter, and French toast. You can add a fried egg and cheese, or order a soft-boiled egg on the side. Cakes include custard cakes, egg tarts, coconut tarts, red bean cakes, butter cakes, pandan cakes, and more. Western-style breads and pastries were learned by Hainanese people while working as kitchen helpers for the British in the 19th century. Today, they have become a classic part of Nanyang Hainanese restaurants.
Besides bread and pastries, they also have various noodles, such as sesame flat rice noodles (guotiao), dry-tossed noodles, stir-fried noodles, Hainanese noodles, stir-fried rice vermicelli, and silky egg flat rice noodles (hefen). These suit Chinese tastes very well. We ordered silky egg flat rice noodles, sesame flat rice noodles, egg tarts, custard cakes, yellow bread with fried egg, chicken curry puffs, peanut and kaya mix bread, ginger milk tea, and lemon tea for a mix of Chinese and Western flavors. The peanut and kaya mix bread contains kaya jam, butter, and crushed peanuts, giving it a very rich texture. The sesame rice noodles (zhima guotiao) are a mix of sweet, salty, and spicy, served with fried tofu and fried fish chunks. They are a signature dish at this shop.
Babu's Kitchen in Brunei
We had lunch in the old town of Brunei Town. There are many Chinese-owned shops here, and it is also a great place to find halal Hainanese restaurants. We chose a place called Babu's Kitchen. It was very busy at lunchtime with Chinese, Malay, and Indian customers, which is a classic scene at a Hainanese restaurant. Since they did not have a Chinese menu, we asked the owner to recommend dishes. We ordered the Assam fish fillets, salted egg fried mushrooms, beef yee mee noodles, and bean curd skin with tofu and chicken. Just like in Malaysia, the Chinese people in Brunei speak very standard Mandarin. Overall, the food was very good. It blends Chinese cooking with Malay flavors, but it is still very easy for Chinese people to enjoy.
Summary: This halal Hainanese food guide follows the first half of a trip through Malaysia, Singapore, and Brunei, covering chicken rice, kopitiam cafes, noodles, seafood, and Nanyang-style Muslim-friendly restaurants.
Malaysia
The Chicken Rice Shop in Kuala Lumpur
Oriental Kopi at Kuala Lumpur Airport
Hua Mui Restaurant in Johor Bahru
Yut Loy Coffee Shop in Kuala Kangsar
Sin Hua Air-Conditioned Restaurant in Kota Bharu
Fook Yuen Coffee Shop in Kota Kinabalu
Yit Chang Coffee Shop in Kota Kinabalu
Yee Fung Coffee Shop in Kota Kinabalu
Ling Long Seafood in Kuching
Rex Restaurant in Singapore
Ying Chew Restaurant in Brunei
Babu's Kitchen in Brunei
Mei Guang Coffee Shop in Brunei
Malaysia
The Chicken Rice Shop in Kuala Lumpur
After getting off the plane at Kuala Lumpur Airport, we take the airport express train to the final stop, KL Sentral. Once we go upstairs, we are at the Nu Sentral shopping mall. We eat there almost every time we visit Kuala Lumpur. There are many types of restaurants in the mall. There are three halal Nyonya cuisine restaurants alone, and many other halal Chinese restaurants.
This time, we ate at the famous halal Hainanese chicken rice chain in Malaysia, The Chicken Rice Shop. The founder, Wong Kah Bee, was once an executive director at KFC Malaysia. She had worked in the fast-food industry for 25 years before starting her own business. In 2000, 54-year-old Wong Kah Bee and her daughter, Wong Jia Lian, opened the first The Chicken Rice Shop in Taipan, Selangor, officially launching their halal Hainanese chicken rice brand.
Wong Kah Bee's parents were from Penang and her grandmother was from Hainan. She loved Hainanese chicken rice very much since she was a child. During the 20th century, Hainanese chicken rice was mostly sold at food stalls, and almost none of it was halal. When Wong Kah Bee and her daughter started the business, they had a clear goal: to bring Hainanese chicken rice into shopping malls with clean, comfortable, and independent storefronts suitable for family meals, and to make it halal food for everyone. Today, The Chicken Rice Shop has 135 locations, making it the largest halal Hainanese chicken rice chain in Malaysia. Led by them, halal Chinese food is growing in Malaysia, allowing friends (dosti) from all over the world to enjoy delicious Chinese cuisine here.
We ordered a set meal for three, which included Nyonya top hats (pai tee), mango salad, roasted chicken, Hainanese curry chicken, okra, wolf herring fish balls (sai tou yu wan), and rice. We also ordered an extra side of roasted tofu, which was perfect for our family. Top hats (pai tee) are a classic snack for weddings and New Year celebrations among the Peranakan Chinese in Malaysia. They originated in Singapore, where they are also called little gold cups (xiao jin bei), and are filled with shredded carrots and white radishes. Wolf herring fish balls (sai tou yu wan) are Teochew-style fish balls made from wolf herring, and they are very popular in Malaysia.
Oriental Kopi at Kuala Lumpur Airport
Taking a car from Malacca back to Kuala Lumpur Airport, the most popular restaurant at Terminal 2 is the Hainanese coffee shop chain Oriental Kopi (huayang). There is almost always a line whenever you go.
They have a huge variety of dishes and are currently one of the most famous halal Hainanese coffee shops. Hainanese people began immigrating to Malaysia in the 19th century. Many early immigrants worked as chefs and servers in British hotels and restaurants, while some worked as servants for British officers. Influenced by their British employers, the Hainanese learned to cook Western food and combined it with Hainanese culinary elements to create the unique Hainanese coffee shop (Hailam Kopitiam) culture.
We ordered flaky egg tarts, pineapple buns with butter (bing huo bo luo bao), Hainanese chicken rice, classic mee siam, curry fish balls, coffee, soy milk with grass jelly, and longan sea coconut sweet soup (tang shui). The coffee, flaky egg tarts, and pineapple buns with butter are known as the 'Oriental Kopi Three Treasures' and make a classic Nanyang breakfast combination. Their flaky egg tarts are indeed well-made, with a very tender egg custard and a rich aroma. Their sweet soup (tang shui) is also delicious. We rarely drank sweet soup in the north, so it felt very authentic to the Nanyang style.
However, their Hainanese chicken rice was not good. The quality of the rice seemed poor, and it felt gritty, lacking the texture of rice at other places.
Hua Mui Restaurant in Johor Bahru
We took the train from Woodlands, Singapore, in the morning and arrived at the Johor Bahru station in Malaysia in 5 minutes. We walked from the Johor Bahru station to the old town to visit Restoran Hua Mui to experience an authentic Hainanese coffee shop (Hailam Kopitiam).
Restoran Hua Mui opened in 1946 and has a 78-year history, making it the oldest Hainanese coffee shop in Johor Bahru. Like many old-school Hainanese coffee shops in Malaysia, although the owner is Hainanese Chinese, they hire Malay chefs and staff so that Chinese, Malay, and Indian customers can all enjoy the food.
The term coffee shop (kopitiam) is made up of the Malay word 'kopi' (coffee) and the Hokkien word 'tiam' (shop), specializing in charcoal-grilled toast, white coffee, and soft-boiled eggs. Early Hainanese coffee shops were very popular with the British. Today, they have become places where older people discuss news and daily life, serving as important social hubs.
At Hua Mui, we ordered mutton stew rice, Hainanese noodles, coffee and tea mix (cham c), and a breakfast platter. Coffee and tea mix (cham c) is just coffee, tea, and milk. The restaurant's setting is still very traditional, with a classic two-story arcade building (qilou) and bamboo curtains hanging on the doors and windows, easily bringing to mind the old days.
Yut Loy Coffee Shop in Kuala Kangsar
Taking the train north from Ipoh, it is a 30-minute ride to Kuala Kangsar District. Kuala Kangsar has been the royal city of the Sultan of Perak since the 18th century. The town center still keeps an old street of arcade buildings, where you can find an old-school Hainanese coffee shop called Yut Loy Coffee Shop (Yue Lai Cha Shi). The Hainanese owner hires Malay staff here, allowing the three major ethnic groups—Chinese, Malay, and Indian—to all dine in the shop.
Since Yut Loy Coffee Shop only serves main meals after 1:00 PM, we spent the morning there having coffee with toast, topped with honey and butter. In Nanyang-themed novels, I often read about old people sitting in these Hainanese coffee shops all morning with a cup of coffee, a piece of toast, and a newspaper. This time, we got to experience it ourselves.
Sin Hua Air-Conditioned Restaurant in Kota Bharu
Hainanese people are an important part of the Chinese community in Kelantan. We ate at the Sin Hua Air-Conditioned Restaurant, a long-standing Hainanese eatery in Kota Bharu with over 50 years of history. We had Hainanese chicken chop, Hainanese noodles, and toasted bread, all of which are authentic Nanyang Hainanese dishes. Next door, there is also a Sin Shing Coffee Shop (Xin Cheng Cha Can Shi), which is said to have the best Hainanese chicken rice in Kota Bharu.
Fook Yuen Coffee Shop in Kota Kinabalu
Although there are many Hakka and Hokkien people on Gaya Street in Kota Kinabalu, the restaurants are still mostly run by Hainanese people. I started my morning with breakfast at Fook Yuen Coffee Shop (Fuyuan Cha Canting), which is very popular and crowded with tourists. Ordering is semi-self-service. They offer Cantonese-style congee and dim sum, Malay coconut milk rice (nasi lemak), and Western-style bread and coffee, meeting the needs of all ethnic groups in Malaysia. I had a serving of Hainanese chicken rice, two portions of steamed dumplings (shaomai), and a glass of iced milk tea. Their chicken rice is a modified version; they add dried small fish to the rice, a style that should be more popular with Malay customers.
Yit Chang Coffee Shop in Kota Kinabalu
Opened in 1896, Yee Fung Coffee Shop (Yue Chang Cha Shi) is the oldest Hainanese restaurant in Kota Kinabalu, with a history even longer than the city itself. The shop was originally located at the headquarters of the British North Borneo Chartered Company on Gaya Island. After the settlement on the island was destroyed in 1898 by an anti-British uprising led by the indigenous leader Mat Salleh, the shop moved to its current location on Gaya Street. You could say Yee Fung Coffee Shop has witnessed the entire transformation of Kota Kinabalu. Old photos hang on their walls, including one from the 1960s showing Yee Fung Coffee Shop in the exact same spot as today.
The shop is divided into two sections, with the Hainanese owner personally making coffee and toasting bread. The owner is very enthusiastic, provides excellent service, and speaks great Korean, which helps him attract many Korean guests. Another stall invites Muslim sisters to make Hainanese beef offal noodles (niuzamian) and various Malay dishes, which is a major feature of traditional Hainanese coffee shops. To attract customers from all ethnic groups, they must make food that suits everyone's taste. This is why many long-standing Hainanese restaurants in Malaysia have been open for decades or even a century.
We ordered white coffee, three-layer coffee, monk fruit herbal tea (luohanguo liangcha), oats, toast, and beef offal noodles. Monk fruit herbal tea and barley water (yimi shui) are really perfect for the weather here.
Yee Fung Coffee Shop in Kota Kinabalu
The most popular halal Chinese restaurant on Gaya Street in Kota Kinabalu is Yee Fung Tea House. The owner of Yee Fung Tea House, Zhuang Qiuwang, is from Johor. He started selling laksa on Gaya Street in 1984, which is exactly 40 years ago. Like many halal Chinese restaurants in Malaysia, they hire Muslim chefs and staff to ensure the ingredients are halal.
Their signature dishes are the "three treasures": laksa, claypot chicken rice, and beef offal. We ordered lettuce with oyster sauce, plain beef offal, plain fish balls, and chicken wonton noodles. Hainanese beef offal mainly includes beef balls, beef tripe, stewed beef, and beef slices. Many Hainanese restaurants in Kota Kinabalu serve it, and it is a major local specialty. Authentic Hainanese beef offal does not use MSG. It relies purely on spices to stew out the flavor, so you do not feel thirsty after eating it.
Ling Long Seafood in Kuching
I strongly recommend the Top Spot Food Court in the city center to friends (dosti) visiting Kuching. It is a Chinese halal seafood city with a Nanyang style. The food court is open from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. It looks like a very plain parking garage from the outside, but once you take the elevator to the top floor, you enter a very lively seafood open-air food court. Most of the stalls in the food court are Chinese-run with halal certifications. Various fish, shrimp, and vegetables are displayed openly, so you can pick whatever you want to eat.
We chose a stall called "Ling Long Seafood." The lady who took our order is Hainanese. Hainanese people running halal Chinese restaurants in Malaysia is also a major feature. The lady spoke great Mandarin and enthusiastically helped us order according to our needs. We ordered Sarawak-style stir-fried midin (a type of fern) with shrimp paste and stir-fried mani cai (a local vegetable) with eggs. Their stir-fried dishes come in small, medium, and large sizes, so even one person can eat very well.
Midin is a fern native to Borneo. It is not bitter at all when stir-fried and has a very fresh fragrance. Mani cai, also known as star gooseberry leaves, is a wild vegetable that Sarawak Hakka people love to cook. You can find it in homes and small restaurants. The picked mani cai leaves must be crushed in water and drained to remove toxins, and the small stems must be picked out before stir-frying, so it is much more troublesome than other vegetables.
For seafood, we ordered lokan (white clams), sea shrimp, and seven-star grouper. The waiter told us which ones were the freshest and which were frozen. After we ordered, the food was indeed very delicious. Since this is a food court by the sea in the city center, I am not sure if other stalls overcharge, but I think this one offers good value for money. In the end, our five dishes, rice, and 6% sales tax cost 313 RMB in total. Small stir-fried dishes were 24 RMB each, a seven-star grouper was 148 RMB, though they have cheaper fish too. A plate of sea shrimp was 48 RMB, and a plate of clams was 40 RMB.
Rex Restaurant in Singapore
If you visit the National Museum of Singapore and Fort Canning Park, it is well worth going to the nearby MacKenzie Rex Restaurant to taste authentic halal Hainanese chicken rice. MacKenzie Rex Restaurant opened in 1966. It is the first and most famous halal Hainanese chicken rice restaurant in Singapore. The owner is a Hainanese Chinese who speaks good Mandarin and is happy to introduce dishes to guests. Besides Hainanese chicken rice, they are also good at making various home-style Chinese dishes, known in Singapore as Zi char (home-style stir-fry).
We ordered the classic chicken rice and five-spice meat rolls (Ngor Hiang per roll), plus stir-fried mixed vegetables and fish soup. Everything was delicious, and it was arguably the best meal of our Singapore trip. The best part of their chicken rice is not the chicken itself, but the rice steamed with chicken fat. You can eat it plain and never want to stop. The halal version of the five-spice meat roll adds five-spice powder to the chicken filling, which is then wrapped in bean curd skin and deep-fried. It is very fragrant when freshly fried.
Ying Chew Restaurant in Brunei
When traveling in Brunei, you must visit the most famous legendary Hainanese teahouse, Ying Chew (Yingzhou Hao).
The founder of Ying Chew, Han Qiongyuan, was from Wenchang, Hainan. During the Japanese invasion of China in 1939, 17-year-old Han Qiongyuan traveled to Southeast Asia and arrived in Brunei to work as a helper in his uncle's coffee shop. In 1946, Han Qiongyuan officially opened Ying Chew Teahouse, selling coffee, bread, and other food. It became widely known for its longevity bread (Roti Kuning). As the teahouse business grew, Han Qiongyuan expanded into real estate and led the construction of the Brunei Hainan Building. After 1993, Han Qiongyuan returned to his hometown every year to visit relatives and invested heavily there. He was awarded the title of 'Patriotic Hainanese' by Hainan Province three times.
Like many old-fashioned Nanyang Hainanese teahouses, they serve halal food and have Brunei halal certification, making them popular with all ethnic groups. They have a very rich variety of bread. The most classic sandwich breads come in four flavors: peanut, red bean paste, butter, and coconut. There are also peanut and kaya mix bread, cheese bread, yellow bread with kaya and butter, and French toast. You can add a fried egg and cheese, or order a soft-boiled egg on the side. Cakes include custard cakes, egg tarts, coconut tarts, red bean cakes, butter cakes, pandan cakes, and more. Western-style breads and pastries were learned by Hainanese people while working as kitchen helpers for the British in the 19th century. Today, they have become a classic part of Nanyang Hainanese restaurants.
Besides bread and pastries, they also have various noodles, such as sesame flat rice noodles (guotiao), dry-tossed noodles, stir-fried noodles, Hainanese noodles, stir-fried rice vermicelli, and silky egg flat rice noodles (hefen). These suit Chinese tastes very well. We ordered silky egg flat rice noodles, sesame flat rice noodles, egg tarts, custard cakes, yellow bread with fried egg, chicken curry puffs, peanut and kaya mix bread, ginger milk tea, and lemon tea for a mix of Chinese and Western flavors. The peanut and kaya mix bread contains kaya jam, butter, and crushed peanuts, giving it a very rich texture. The sesame rice noodles (zhima guotiao) are a mix of sweet, salty, and spicy, served with fried tofu and fried fish chunks. They are a signature dish at this shop.
Babu's Kitchen in Brunei
We had lunch in the old town of Brunei Town. There are many Chinese-owned shops here, and it is also a great place to find halal Hainanese restaurants. We chose a place called Babu's Kitchen. It was very busy at lunchtime with Chinese, Malay, and Indian customers, which is a classic scene at a Hainanese restaurant. Since they did not have a Chinese menu, we asked the owner to recommend dishes. We ordered the Assam fish fillets, salted egg fried mushrooms, beef yee mee noodles, and bean curd skin with tofu and chicken. Just like in Malaysia, the Chinese people in Brunei speak very standard Mandarin. Overall, the food was very good. It blends Chinese cooking with Malay flavors, but it is still very easy for Chinese people to enjoy.
