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2024 Halal Travel Summary: Singapore, Malaysia, China and Beyond (Jan-Jun)

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Summary: This 2024 travel summary covers the first half of the year, including trips through Singapore, Malaysia, China, and other destinations with halal food and Muslim travel notes. It keeps the original route, dates, places, photographs, and food details as a clear English travel record.

January in Singapore.

I traveled to Singapore in January and tasted various halal Chinese dishes. I found prawn noodles (xia mian), Hakka stuffed tofu (niang doufu), Hong Kong-style dim sum, Hainanese chicken rice, and stir-fry tea house dishes run by Hui Muslims. See "Tasting Halal Chinese Food in Singapore."

I discovered a halal-certified Peranakan restaurant in Singapore called Old Nyonya Kitchen (Lao Niangre Xiaochu) on Joo Chiat Road. Also, in Bedok North Street in eastern Singapore, there is a 60-year-old shop called Lu Lin Nyonya Kueh. They have a shop in front and a factory in the back, selling all kinds of halal Nyonya cakes (kueh). See "Eating Nyonya Food in Singapore."

Singapore has a very strong Indian culture. Tamil people from the southeastern coast of India built the Al-Abrar Mosque and the Jamae Mosque in Chinatown, as well as the Nagore Dargah, a Sufi shrine (gongbei). Little India is the liveliest place in Singapore. The shophouses on both sides are filled with Indian shops. At the southern end, there is the Abdul Gafoor Mosque built by Tamils, and at the northern end, there is the Angullia Mosque built by Gujaratis. The Tekka Centre in Little India has a row of Indian food stalls, and there is also the Indian Heritage Centre that introduces Indian culture. Kampong Glam has many century-old Indian shops. Some specialize in roti prata (fei bing), and some were even favored by British governors. See "Experiencing Indian Muslim Culture in Singapore."

The Asian Civilisations Museum in Singapore originally focused on collecting crafts from Malays and other indigenous peoples of Southeast Asia. After the 1990s, it expanded its scope to collect items from West and South Asia, gradually becoming a museum that showcases the intersection of different Asian cultures and civilizations. See "Visiting the Asian Civilisations Museum in Singapore."

In Fort Canning Park, Singapore, there is the tomb of Sultan Iskandar Shah of Singapore, who is said to be the founder of the Malacca Sultanate. Archaeologists discovered thousands of 14th-century artifacts near the Sultan's tomb, many of which came from China and Java. At the foot of Mount Faber in southern Singapore, there is the tomb of Temenggong Abdul Rahman, one of the founders of modern Singapore, and his family. Kampong Glam in Singapore was originally the land of Sultan Hussein of Johor. The Sultan's family built the Sultan Mosque, the palace, and the Prime Minister's office here, and there is also a cemetery for the Sultan's family in the north. On the east side of Kampong Glam, there is the Hajjah Fatimah Mosque built by a Malay noblewoman. East of the Sultan's palace is the former site of a publishing house founded by members of the Sultan's family. Kampong Glam has several long-standing Padang rice (padang fan) restaurants that are well worth eating at. See "The Malays and the Early History of Singapore."

After Singapore was established as a free trade port in 1819, the Aljunied family from Yemen, who were doing business in Palembang, Sumatra, immediately came to Singapore and then established a spice and batik clothing trade network there. After that, other Arab merchants also came to Singapore to open shops, gradually forming Arab Street. We visited a batik and Nyonya clothing store opened by the Aljunied family in 1940, and bought traditional batik clothing at another batik shop opened by people of Yemeni descent. Another family from Yemen, the Alsagoff family, once dominated the spice trade in Singapore. They founded the oldest existing Islamic school (madrasa) in Singapore and built a shrine (gongbei) for a Yemeni Sufi sage in Singapore. See "Arab Merchants in Singapore."

Geylang Serai is located in the eastern part of Singapore. In the early 20th century, it became an important Malay community in Singapore. The Geylang Serai Market is the largest Malay market in Singapore, where you can taste various Malay delicacies. The nearby Haig Road Market and Food Centre also have many Malay delicacies. On the second floor of City Plaza near the Geylang River, you can find Singapore's last shop making handmade traditional caps (songkok). The Malay Heritage Centre is located next to the Geylang Serai Market. See "Visiting the Malay Market in Geylang Serai, Singapore."

January: Johor Bahru, Seremban, Klang, Ipoh, and Kuala Kangsar, Malaysia.

We went to Malaysia to eat various halal Chinese meals. In Johor Bahru, we ate at the Hainanese coffee shop Hua Mui and visited the Johor Bahru Chinese Heritage Museum. In Seremban, we ate at the halal Chinese restaurants Muhammad Kew and Mohd Chan. In Klang, we ate at the halal Chinese restaurants Yiqi Chichi and Rahmat Tan. In Ipoh, we ate at the famous halal Chinese restaurant Lau Kee, the halal Chinese stir-fry shop Gerai Ipoh Ipoh Aje, and stayed at the heritage shophouse hotel Sarang Paloh. In Kuala Kangsar, we ate at the old-school Hainanese coffee shop Yut Loy. See "Tasting Halal Chinese Food in Malaysia."

After the 14th century, the Minangkabau people living on Sumatra Island crossed the Strait of Malacca to settle in Negeri Sembilan on the Malay Peninsula. Today, you can experience Minangkabau culture at the Negeri Sembilan State Museum. On the hill to the east of Seremban Lake Garden is the Tuanku Ja'afar Royal Gallery. In the city center, there is the century-old Jamek Mosque and the famous long-standing shop Haji Shariff's Cendol. See "Negeri Sembilan: The Settlement of the Minangkabau People in Malaysia."

Kuala Kangsar is located in Perak, Malaysia. It has been the royal city of the Sultan of Perak since the 18th century, where you can feel the authentic Malay village (kampung) atmosphere. On Friday, we visited the night market at the Kuala Kangsar Market and tasted various Malay snacks. The core area of the Perak Sultan's royal city is on Bukit Chandan hill. It features the Istana Hulu built in 1898 (currently closed), the Ubudiah Mosque built in 1913, the Perak Royal Mausoleum built in 1915, the Perak Prince's wooden house built in 1912, the bamboo-walled Istana Kenangan built in 1926, and the Istana Iskandariah built in 1933 (not open to the public). See "The Royal City of the Perak Sultan and the Lively Malay Night Market."

Ipoh is located in Perak, Malaysia, and is known as the "City of Tin." In the late 19th century, many South Indian Tamils came to Ipoh to make a living, and the Ipoh Indian Mosque was built in 1908. Some North Indian Pathans (Pashtun descent) and Punjabis also came to Ipoh to work as police officers, and they built the Pakistan Mosque in Ipoh's Little India in 1930. In Ipoh's old town, we ate at a Tamil mamak stall that has been serving rice with curry (nasi kandar) for over 50 years, and we also had durian shaved ice (cendol) in the old town. The center for Malay people in Ipoh is the Panglima Kinta Mosque, built in 1898 by the Kinta River. See "Indian and Malay Mosques in Ipoh, Malaysia."

The Muhammadiah Mosque in Tasek, in the northern suburbs of Ipoh, was rebuilt under the leadership of the Ipoh branch of the Malaysian Chinese Muslim Association. It is the first mosque in Malaysia with a purely Chinese architectural style, and you can see Chinese characters everywhere inside. I performed the Friday prayer (namaz) at the mosque and met Dato' Sheikh Abdul Rahman, the chairman of the Ipoh branch of the Chinese Muslim Association. See "Performing Friday Prayer at a Chinese Mosque in Malaysia."

In 1889, Sultan Abu Bakar of Johor officially moved the royal capital to Johor Bahru. The Sultan Abu Bakar Mosque is a mosque in Malaysia with a very distinct Victorian style. The Mahmoodiah Royal Mausoleum is the royal burial ground for the Sultans of Johor, and it also uses Victorian architectural style. The Pasir Pelangi Royal Mosque is located next to the Pasir Pelangi Palace of the Sultan of Johor, and the entire structure is in a neoclassical style. The Johor Art Gallery has many works by Johor artists, and there is a young man on-site to guide you through the experience of traditional tie-dyeing. There are traditional Johor Malay buildings in the courtyard where you can change into traditional clothes for photos. On Jalan Dhoby in the old town of Johor Bahru, there is a traditional Indian bakery that has been open for over 80 years, and there is also an Indian mosque nearby. See "The Royal City of the Temenggong Dynasty of the Johor Sultanate—Johor Bahru."

On Jalan Tan Hiok Nee, a street with century-old arcade buildings in the old town of Johor Bahru, you will find Nyonya Dynasty, the first Nyonya restaurant in Johor state to receive halal certification. There are three halal Nyonya restaurants in the NU Sentral mall opposite KL Sentral in Kuala Lumpur, and this time we ate at the largest of the three, Peranakan Place. See "Eating Nyonya Cuisine in Johor Bahru and Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia."

Selangor is located on the west coast of the Malay Peninsula. After the 17th century, the Bugis people from Sulawesi Island entered Selangor as mercenaries and established the Sultanate of Selangor in the 18th century. In 1874, the Selangor royal city was destroyed in a civil war, and Sultan Abdul Samad moved the royal city to the foot of Jugra Hill inside the mouth of the Selangor River. Today, two historical buildings, the Alaeddin Palace and the Alaeddin Mosque, are still preserved here. The Sultan also built the Alam Shah Palace in Klang. The Sultan Sulaiman Royal Mosque, which is right next to the palace, uses Art Deco style. The Sultan Abdul Aziz Royal Gallery is located in the center of the old town of Klang. The arcade area of Klang's old town has a lively Little India neighborhood, and the Indian mosque is a landmark building. See "The Royal City of the Sultan of Selangor—Jugra, Klang."

February, Urumqi.

Hotan Street is a famous food street in Urumqi. We ate the Kashgar Yibazhua (a type of meat bun) that had the longest line on Hotan Second Street, drank pigeon soup, bought traditional Uyghur pastries, and ate roasted goose eggs, handmade yogurt, and Yangle spicy chicken. There are also many Kazakh restaurants on Hotan Street. We ate horse sausage narin (a traditional meat and noodle dish) and milk tea at the Sai Gulu Ke restaurant, and had a Kazakh breakfast at Baoersake. I also bought an old-fashioned poplar wood sapayi (a traditional percussion instrument) at the Duoluozhe Ethnic Musical Instrument Store in Erdaoqiao, and bought usma (a plant-based eyebrow pencil) on the street. We walked around the Tianshan Vanke mall, which has many Uyghur restaurants and even a restaurant specifically for children's supplementary food. See "Hotan Street, Erdaoqiao, and Tianshan Vanke in Urumqi."

Although I was busy with night prayers during this return to Urumqi, I still found time to visit two small Hui Muslim eateries. The first one is Zainab's childhood treasure restaurant—Heping Bridge Dumpling Restaurant. Their place is a rare, old-school Hui Muslim sour soup dumpling shop in Urumqi. The second place is Xinshenghua Meatball Soup (wanzi tang) for Hui Muslims in Changji. The environment is very nice, the kitchen is open for everyone to see, and the food tastes great. See "Sharing Two Hui Muslim Eateries I Visited in Urumqi This Time."

I went to the Dawan Gongbei in Urumqi to attend the funeral (maitai) for an elder from the Luyuan Street community. After the funeral, I visited the two sages at the Dawan Gongbei. The first is the elder from Weijiapu, the first imam (ahong) to start formal religious education in Urumqi. The second is Imam Ma Zongfu, the leader of the Beiliang Mosque and Beifang Mosque in Urumqi, known to everyone as Elder Datong. See "Visiting the Dawan Gongbei in Urumqi."

March, Wuhan

I returned to Wuhan ten years after graduation. At night, I ate at Diaohuzi Hui Muslim Barbecue in Erqi, Jiang'an. In the morning, I prayed (namaz) at the Jiang'an Mosque. At Chengliji, I caught some freshly fried beef meatballs (niurou yuanzi). At the Yixiangzhai food shop nearby, I bought peanut brittle (huasheng su) and ginger candy (jiangzhi zatang). On the side road of Erqi, I ate three-ingredient noodles and beef mixed noodles at the Halal Shuangbao Red Oil Beef series shop. At noon, I ate Ma's hot dry noodles (reganmian) on Liangdao Street in Wuchang and taro cheese bricks at the Halal Red Brick Wall shop. In the evening, I went to the Yizhiwei Restaurant on Bayi Road to eat Halal Hubei cuisine. See "Returning to Wuhan Ten Years After Graduation (Part 1): Jiang'an Mosque, Central China Normal University, and Wuchang Food."

Early in the morning, I went to the Ma Si Baba Gongbei on Huquan Street to pay my respects. In the afternoon, I drank sand-boiled coffee and ate baklava at a Turkish cafe in Tongxingli, Hankou. In the afternoon, I went to the Fatumei Restaurant on Huangxing Road to eat beef spring rolls, stir-fried beef tripe, and shredded dry-fried beef. See "Returning to Wuhan Ten Years After Graduation (Part 2): Ma Si Baba Gongbei, Turkish Coffee, and Fatumei Restaurant."

March, Hexiwu, Wuqing, Tianjin

I went back to my hometown with my family in Hexiwu Town, Wuqing District, Tianjin. Because it was a key hub for water transport, Hexiwu Town had many Hui Muslim merchants during the Ming and Qing dynasties. There was a Hui Muslim camp southwest of the town, and the Hexiwu Mosque was first built in the early years of the Yongle reign of the Ming Dynasty. After leaving the mosque, we bought the local specialty golden-rimmed braised meat (jinbian koumen) at the Xinpengzhai Restaurant. Then we went to the "First Post Station Snack Street" inside the Hexiwu Farmers' Market. The most famous item there is the yellow rice fried cake (huangmi zhagao) from the century-old Wangji Lirenzhai. Also, the crispy fried dough pockets (gezhe he) of Hexiwu are very famous. See "My Hometown—Hexiwu Town, Wuqing, Tianjin."

May, Yiwu and Lishui, Zhejiang

After four years, we visited Yiwu again. After travel restrictions were lifted, Yiwu became busy again. People from countries in the Middle East and Africa all came to Yiwu to buy goods, and many new Middle Eastern restaurants opened, especially in the Binwang business district. This time, we chose a few of the newly opened restaurants to try. See "Many New Middle Eastern Restaurants Have Opened in Yiwu."

On the afternoon of May 2, I took the high-speed train from Yiwu to Lishui to visit Lishui Mosque. Lishui Mosque has two sections, featuring two gate towers, a front hall, connecting corridors, and a main hall, all in a distinct local Lishui style. The gate towers are the most unique part and are listed as a Lishui City cultural heritage site. See "Visiting Lishui Mosque in Zhejiang."

In May, I visited Fuzhou, Quanzhou, and Xiamen in Fujian.

I visited Fuzhou Mosque at Nanmendou and went to pay my respects at the tomb of the Sheikh (shaihai) inside the Hui Muslim cemetery on Meifeng Road. The Fuzhou Museum displays three Song and Yuan dynasty tombstone carvings from Quanzhou. I had lunch at the famous Turkish restaurant Aladdin, then returned to Fuzhou Mosque for Jumu'ah prayer. See "Jumu'ah in Fuzhou: Fuzhou Mosque, Sheikh Tomb, Song and Yuan Stone Carvings, and a Turkish Restaurant."

I went to Qingjing Mosque in Quanzhou for Zuhr prayer. Imam Ma of Qingjing Mosque is from Hualong, Qinghai. During the day, he leads prayers in the main hall donated by Oman, and after the tourist area closes, he leads prayers in the smaller Mingshan Hall. The next morning, I continued exploring Qingjing Mosque. See "The Thousand-Year-Old Qingjing Mosque in Quanzhou."

Lingshan Holy Tomb is in the east of Quanzhou city, also known as the Tomb of the Three and Four Sages. The holy tomb currently has two granite graves divided into three layers, with lotus petal carvings on the bottom layer. In 1958, when the Fuzhou-Xiamen highway outside the East Gate of Quanzhou was widened, several Song and Yuan dynasty Muslim pedestal-style tomb stones by the road were moved next to the Lingshan Holy Tomb. Next to the Lingshan Holy Tomb is the cemetery for local Quanzhou Hui Muslims. The Ge, Ma, and Huang families are descendants of the generations of imams who served at Qingjing Mosque. A large section of the Lingshan Sacred Tomb scenic area is dedicated to the Ding family cemetery from Chendai. See "Lingshan Holy Tomb in Quanzhou."

At noon, I took a taxi south of Quanzhou to Chendai Mosque for Asr prayer and visited the Chendai Hui Muslim History Museum located inside the Ding Family Ancestral Hall. See "Chendai Mosque and the Chendai Hui Muslim History Museum in Quanzhou, Fujian."

In Quanzhou, besides the famous Baiqi Guo family of Hui Muslims, there is also a branch of the Jundong Guo family of Hui Muslims. Today, the Xingzhai Guo Family Ancestral Hall is a large Southern Fujian-style ancestral hall with three rows of buildings, two courtyards, and two side houses. It is a Quanzhou cultural heritage site and serves as the cultural activity center for the Xingzhai Hui Muslim Seniors Association. Inside the Guo Family Ancestral Hall in Xingzhai, there are several stone tablets, one of which is inscribed with 'Site of the Islamic Mosque'. See 'Echoes of the Faith: The Guo Family Mosque of the Hui Muslims in Xingzhai, Quanzhou'.

The Quanzhou Maritime Museum was built in 1959. In 2003, the Quanzhou Islamic Culture Exhibition Hall was completed, and in 2008, the 'Arabs and Persians in Quanzhou' exhibition officially opened, displaying over 200 stone carvings from the Song and Yuan dynasties related to the faith. See 'Song and Yuan Dynasty Islamic Stone Carvings in the Quanzhou Maritime Museum Collection'.

At noon, I visited the Xiamen Mosque and was very grateful to have braised noodles (huimian) made by Imam Liu. Inside the Xiamen Mosque, there are two stone tablets dating back to 1902 (the 28th year of the Guangxu reign) and 1924 (the 13th year of the Republic of China). I had dinner at the main branch of Ma'erlong in the evening. See '[2024 May Day Trip] Xiamen Mosque and Ma'erlong Xinjiang Cuisine'.

The Anthropology Museum of Xiamen University is the first university museum in the People's Republic of China, and it houses a large number of Song and Yuan dynasty Islamic stone carvings from Quanzhou. See 'Song and Yuan Dynasty Islamic Stone Carvings in the Xiamen University Anthropology Museum Collection'.

May: Chengdu, Dujiangyan, and Leshan, Sichuan.

I went to Chengdu for a business trip in May and stayed behind the Huangcheng Mosque. This time, I felt the area in front of the Huangcheng Mosque was much livelier than before, with many new restaurants opened. See 'The Huangcheng Mosque Neighborhood in Chengdu is Great for Exploring'.

Tuqiao is located in the northwest of Chengdu. Since the Qing Dynasty, it has been a necessary stop for merchants traveling to Chengdu from Aba and Songpan via the Songmao Ancient Road. Many Hui Muslims settled here, and during the reigns of Yongzheng and Qianlong, two mosques were built, known as the Tuqiao Lower Mosque and Upper Mosque. On the evening of May 16, I first bought half a smoked duck at Shunji Marinated Meats (Shunji Yanlu) in front of the Tuqiao Upper Mosque. Then, I bought a serving of braised beef offal (shao niuza) with rice at the nearby Dama Ge Beef Restaurant. After coming down from Hufutan, I had some spicy wontons (hongyou chaoshou) at the Old Street Restaurant in front of the Tuqiao Upper Mosque. Tuqiao is very lively in the morning, and a line formed in front of Shunji Marinated Meats. The Sichuan-style marinated meats here are really worth buying. After finishing breakfast, I visited the Tuqiao Hui Muslim Cemetery, which has a history of over 200 years. See 'Tasting Sichuan Delicacies in Tuqiao, Chengdu'.

On May 15, we set off from Chengdu to Dujiangyan and visited the Dujiangyan Mosque at noon. There are many halal restaurants around the Dujiangyan Mosque, where you can eat authentic traditional Hui Muslim dishes from western Sichuan. Huixiangyuan, located right next to the Dujiangyan Mosque, is a long-established restaurant that displays a traditional soup pot (tangping) sign. I had some chilled tofu pudding (bing douhua) at a small snack shop in Dujiangyan; it was soft and very refreshing. See "Ancient Mosques and Food in Dujiangyan, Sichuan."

We left Chengdu early on May 16 and arrived in Leshan after a two-hour drive, heading to the local restaurant Haishi Qiaojiao Beef for lunch. The restaurant is right across from the Leshan Giant Buddha, next to the old Leshan Port on the Min River. Haishi Qiaojiao Beef was founded by Imam Hai Weixiong. Imam Hai is from Qingliu Town in the Rongchang District of Chongqing. His ancestors moved to Sichuan from Hubei and Hunan during the Kangxi reign. In October 1989, he became the first imam of the Leshan Mosque after the policy was restored, serving until 1998 when he retired to go into business. Besides Haishi Qiaojiao Beef in Leshan, there is also Sulaimani Qiaojiao Beef on the Maluqiao Food Street at the foot of Mount Emei. The owners are Hui Muslims from Rong County, Zigong City. See "Eating Qiaojiao Beef in Leshan and Mount Emei, Sichuan."

June, Liaocheng and Linqing, Shandong

Seven years later, I visited the Dongguan Hui Muslim community in Liaocheng again. There are two mosques in Liaocheng Dongguan: the west one is commonly known as the Great Mosque (Da Libaisi), and the east one is called the Small Mosque (Xiao Libaisi). The "Great and Small Mosque Street District" in Liaocheng Dongguan is among the first batch of historical and cultural districts in Shandong Province and serves as an important historical witness to the Hui Muslim communities along the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal during the Ming and Qing dynasties. See "Revisiting the Great and Small Mosque Streets in Liaocheng Dongguan."

We took a train from Liaocheng to Linqing and went to Baoliang First Shop to eat a meat-filled pancake roll (bing juan rou). In the afternoon, we prayed the Dhuhr (lidigele) prayer at the North Mosque in Linqing, then went to the East Mosque across the street to pray the Asr (shamu) and Maghrib (hufutan) prayers. After the Asr prayer, we ate big bowls of food at Erliang Diguo Millet Porridge at the intersection of Xianfeng Road and Dazhong Road. After the Maghrib prayer, I rode my bike to the Linqing Women's Mosque to find Zainab. In the morning, we had breakfast at Kong Family Steamed Bowl (kouwan) at the Xianfeng Road intersection. After eating, we went to Xianfeng Road to have tofu brain (doufunao) and old tofu (lao doufu). At noon, we ate Wang Family Ten-Fragrance Noodles (shixiang mian) on Xinhua Road, then went to Hongguanying Mosque in Linxi County, Xingtai, Hebei, to pray the Dhuhr (pieshen) prayer. On the way back, we bought deep-stir-fried meat tenderloin (ganzha liji), meat-filled baked buns (rou huoshao), and smoked pigeon (xunge). See "The Ancient Canal City of Linqing, Shandong."

June: Shenyang, Xinmin, Dalian, Fuzhou, Fengcheng, Dandong, and Xinlitun in Liaoning.

I went to Liaoning for the Dragon Boat Festival holiday. I took a high-speed train from Beijing Chaoyang Station to Shenyang in the evening. The next morning, I went to the Lijiang Morning Market in Shenyang and had lamb soup, shaomai, and pan-fried meat pies (huitou) at Heige Lamb Soup. On the third morning, I visited the Bayi Morning Market in Shenyang again. Shenyang has so many morning markets, and every one of them is full of delicious food. After the market, I took a train from Shenyang Station to Xinmin to visit the Xinmin Mosque. At the halal restaurants around the Xinmin Mosque, you can see signs for the Jin, Bai, and Yang families. See "[Dragon Boat Festival Liaoning Trip] Visiting Shenyang Morning Markets and the Ancient Xinmin Mosque."

On the morning of June 8, I took a train from Shenyang to the ancient city of Fuzhou and had "Fuzhou old-style dishes" at the Qunfangyuan Restaurant near the Fuzhou city roundabout. After lunch, we went to the Fuzhou Mosque for namaz. The imam of the Fuzhou Mosque is from Mengcun, Cangzhou, Hebei. Hui Muslim homes in Fuzhou city. The old street has blue bricks and dark tiles, with Arabic calligraphy on the walls, keeping the look of the old days. There is a legendary halal food spot in Fuzhou city, which is my friend's family shop, Yin's sticky rice cake (jiangmi lianggao). In the afternoon, I took a high-speed train from Wafangdian West Station to Dalian North Station and had dinner at the long-established Ma's Dumpling Restaurant (Ma Jia Jiaozi Guan) in front of Dalian Railway Station. After dinner, I went to the Dalian Mosque on Beijing Street for namaz. The next morning, I left from Dalian Station for Qingdui, then took a taxi to the ancient town of Qingdui to visit the Qingdui Mosque. See "[Dragon Boat Festival Liaoning Trip] Dalian City, Fuzhou Ancient City, and Qingdui Ancient Town."

At noon on June 9, I took a train from Dalian to Fengcheng. At Wenbin Snack Bar, I had the Dandong-style stir-fried corn noodles (chao chazi), and also ordered corn grit eight-treasure porridge (dazhazi babaozhou) and a 6-yuan vegetable platter. After eating, I went to the Fengcheng Mosque for namaz. The imam of the Fengcheng Mosque is also from Cangzhou. In the afternoon, I took a train from Fengcheng to Dandong and visited the Dandong Mosque. The entrance to the mosque was very busy. In the afternoon, I had dinner at the long-established Jinlongge Restaurant in Dandong. They have a wide variety of traditional stir-fried dishes and seafood. See "[Dragon Boat Festival Liaoning Trip] Fengcheng Ancient Mosque and Dandong Food."

On the morning of June 10, I took a high-speed train from Liaoning's Xinmin North Station, arrived at Heishan North Station in 15 minutes, and then took a taxi to Xinlitun Town. I performed the afternoon prayer (peshin) at Xinlitun Mosque, where the imam, Ma, is from Cangzhou. There are many halal restaurants in Xinlitun, but many were closed for the Dragon Boat Festival. We bought beef jerky and smoked dried tofu (xungan doufu) at Wang Zijing Deli, and both were delicious! In the afternoon, we took a train from Xinlitun Railway Station to Fuxin South Station. We performed the late afternoon prayer (asr) and sunset prayer (maghrib) at Fuxin Mosque, then had dinner at Daijia Restaurant Huiweizhai near the mosque. view all
Reposted from the web

Summary: This 2024 travel summary covers the first half of the year, including trips through Singapore, Malaysia, China, and other destinations with halal food and Muslim travel notes. It keeps the original route, dates, places, photographs, and food details as a clear English travel record.

January in Singapore.

I traveled to Singapore in January and tasted various halal Chinese dishes. I found prawn noodles (xia mian), Hakka stuffed tofu (niang doufu), Hong Kong-style dim sum, Hainanese chicken rice, and stir-fry tea house dishes run by Hui Muslims. See "Tasting Halal Chinese Food in Singapore."

I discovered a halal-certified Peranakan restaurant in Singapore called Old Nyonya Kitchen (Lao Niangre Xiaochu) on Joo Chiat Road. Also, in Bedok North Street in eastern Singapore, there is a 60-year-old shop called Lu Lin Nyonya Kueh. They have a shop in front and a factory in the back, selling all kinds of halal Nyonya cakes (kueh). See "Eating Nyonya Food in Singapore."

Singapore has a very strong Indian culture. Tamil people from the southeastern coast of India built the Al-Abrar Mosque and the Jamae Mosque in Chinatown, as well as the Nagore Dargah, a Sufi shrine (gongbei). Little India is the liveliest place in Singapore. The shophouses on both sides are filled with Indian shops. At the southern end, there is the Abdul Gafoor Mosque built by Tamils, and at the northern end, there is the Angullia Mosque built by Gujaratis. The Tekka Centre in Little India has a row of Indian food stalls, and there is also the Indian Heritage Centre that introduces Indian culture. Kampong Glam has many century-old Indian shops. Some specialize in roti prata (fei bing), and some were even favored by British governors. See "Experiencing Indian Muslim Culture in Singapore."

The Asian Civilisations Museum in Singapore originally focused on collecting crafts from Malays and other indigenous peoples of Southeast Asia. After the 1990s, it expanded its scope to collect items from West and South Asia, gradually becoming a museum that showcases the intersection of different Asian cultures and civilizations. See "Visiting the Asian Civilisations Museum in Singapore."

In Fort Canning Park, Singapore, there is the tomb of Sultan Iskandar Shah of Singapore, who is said to be the founder of the Malacca Sultanate. Archaeologists discovered thousands of 14th-century artifacts near the Sultan's tomb, many of which came from China and Java. At the foot of Mount Faber in southern Singapore, there is the tomb of Temenggong Abdul Rahman, one of the founders of modern Singapore, and his family. Kampong Glam in Singapore was originally the land of Sultan Hussein of Johor. The Sultan's family built the Sultan Mosque, the palace, and the Prime Minister's office here, and there is also a cemetery for the Sultan's family in the north. On the east side of Kampong Glam, there is the Hajjah Fatimah Mosque built by a Malay noblewoman. East of the Sultan's palace is the former site of a publishing house founded by members of the Sultan's family. Kampong Glam has several long-standing Padang rice (padang fan) restaurants that are well worth eating at. See "The Malays and the Early History of Singapore."

After Singapore was established as a free trade port in 1819, the Aljunied family from Yemen, who were doing business in Palembang, Sumatra, immediately came to Singapore and then established a spice and batik clothing trade network there. After that, other Arab merchants also came to Singapore to open shops, gradually forming Arab Street. We visited a batik and Nyonya clothing store opened by the Aljunied family in 1940, and bought traditional batik clothing at another batik shop opened by people of Yemeni descent. Another family from Yemen, the Alsagoff family, once dominated the spice trade in Singapore. They founded the oldest existing Islamic school (madrasa) in Singapore and built a shrine (gongbei) for a Yemeni Sufi sage in Singapore. See "Arab Merchants in Singapore."

Geylang Serai is located in the eastern part of Singapore. In the early 20th century, it became an important Malay community in Singapore. The Geylang Serai Market is the largest Malay market in Singapore, where you can taste various Malay delicacies. The nearby Haig Road Market and Food Centre also have many Malay delicacies. On the second floor of City Plaza near the Geylang River, you can find Singapore's last shop making handmade traditional caps (songkok). The Malay Heritage Centre is located next to the Geylang Serai Market. See "Visiting the Malay Market in Geylang Serai, Singapore."

January: Johor Bahru, Seremban, Klang, Ipoh, and Kuala Kangsar, Malaysia.

We went to Malaysia to eat various halal Chinese meals. In Johor Bahru, we ate at the Hainanese coffee shop Hua Mui and visited the Johor Bahru Chinese Heritage Museum. In Seremban, we ate at the halal Chinese restaurants Muhammad Kew and Mohd Chan. In Klang, we ate at the halal Chinese restaurants Yiqi Chichi and Rahmat Tan. In Ipoh, we ate at the famous halal Chinese restaurant Lau Kee, the halal Chinese stir-fry shop Gerai Ipoh Ipoh Aje, and stayed at the heritage shophouse hotel Sarang Paloh. In Kuala Kangsar, we ate at the old-school Hainanese coffee shop Yut Loy. See "Tasting Halal Chinese Food in Malaysia."

After the 14th century, the Minangkabau people living on Sumatra Island crossed the Strait of Malacca to settle in Negeri Sembilan on the Malay Peninsula. Today, you can experience Minangkabau culture at the Negeri Sembilan State Museum. On the hill to the east of Seremban Lake Garden is the Tuanku Ja'afar Royal Gallery. In the city center, there is the century-old Jamek Mosque and the famous long-standing shop Haji Shariff's Cendol. See "Negeri Sembilan: The Settlement of the Minangkabau People in Malaysia."

Kuala Kangsar is located in Perak, Malaysia. It has been the royal city of the Sultan of Perak since the 18th century, where you can feel the authentic Malay village (kampung) atmosphere. On Friday, we visited the night market at the Kuala Kangsar Market and tasted various Malay snacks. The core area of the Perak Sultan's royal city is on Bukit Chandan hill. It features the Istana Hulu built in 1898 (currently closed), the Ubudiah Mosque built in 1913, the Perak Royal Mausoleum built in 1915, the Perak Prince's wooden house built in 1912, the bamboo-walled Istana Kenangan built in 1926, and the Istana Iskandariah built in 1933 (not open to the public). See "The Royal City of the Perak Sultan and the Lively Malay Night Market."

Ipoh is located in Perak, Malaysia, and is known as the "City of Tin." In the late 19th century, many South Indian Tamils came to Ipoh to make a living, and the Ipoh Indian Mosque was built in 1908. Some North Indian Pathans (Pashtun descent) and Punjabis also came to Ipoh to work as police officers, and they built the Pakistan Mosque in Ipoh's Little India in 1930. In Ipoh's old town, we ate at a Tamil mamak stall that has been serving rice with curry (nasi kandar) for over 50 years, and we also had durian shaved ice (cendol) in the old town. The center for Malay people in Ipoh is the Panglima Kinta Mosque, built in 1898 by the Kinta River. See "Indian and Malay Mosques in Ipoh, Malaysia."

The Muhammadiah Mosque in Tasek, in the northern suburbs of Ipoh, was rebuilt under the leadership of the Ipoh branch of the Malaysian Chinese Muslim Association. It is the first mosque in Malaysia with a purely Chinese architectural style, and you can see Chinese characters everywhere inside. I performed the Friday prayer (namaz) at the mosque and met Dato' Sheikh Abdul Rahman, the chairman of the Ipoh branch of the Chinese Muslim Association. See "Performing Friday Prayer at a Chinese Mosque in Malaysia."

In 1889, Sultan Abu Bakar of Johor officially moved the royal capital to Johor Bahru. The Sultan Abu Bakar Mosque is a mosque in Malaysia with a very distinct Victorian style. The Mahmoodiah Royal Mausoleum is the royal burial ground for the Sultans of Johor, and it also uses Victorian architectural style. The Pasir Pelangi Royal Mosque is located next to the Pasir Pelangi Palace of the Sultan of Johor, and the entire structure is in a neoclassical style. The Johor Art Gallery has many works by Johor artists, and there is a young man on-site to guide you through the experience of traditional tie-dyeing. There are traditional Johor Malay buildings in the courtyard where you can change into traditional clothes for photos. On Jalan Dhoby in the old town of Johor Bahru, there is a traditional Indian bakery that has been open for over 80 years, and there is also an Indian mosque nearby. See "The Royal City of the Temenggong Dynasty of the Johor Sultanate—Johor Bahru."

On Jalan Tan Hiok Nee, a street with century-old arcade buildings in the old town of Johor Bahru, you will find Nyonya Dynasty, the first Nyonya restaurant in Johor state to receive halal certification. There are three halal Nyonya restaurants in the NU Sentral mall opposite KL Sentral in Kuala Lumpur, and this time we ate at the largest of the three, Peranakan Place. See "Eating Nyonya Cuisine in Johor Bahru and Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia."

Selangor is located on the west coast of the Malay Peninsula. After the 17th century, the Bugis people from Sulawesi Island entered Selangor as mercenaries and established the Sultanate of Selangor in the 18th century. In 1874, the Selangor royal city was destroyed in a civil war, and Sultan Abdul Samad moved the royal city to the foot of Jugra Hill inside the mouth of the Selangor River. Today, two historical buildings, the Alaeddin Palace and the Alaeddin Mosque, are still preserved here. The Sultan also built the Alam Shah Palace in Klang. The Sultan Sulaiman Royal Mosque, which is right next to the palace, uses Art Deco style. The Sultan Abdul Aziz Royal Gallery is located in the center of the old town of Klang. The arcade area of Klang's old town has a lively Little India neighborhood, and the Indian mosque is a landmark building. See "The Royal City of the Sultan of Selangor—Jugra, Klang."

February, Urumqi.

Hotan Street is a famous food street in Urumqi. We ate the Kashgar Yibazhua (a type of meat bun) that had the longest line on Hotan Second Street, drank pigeon soup, bought traditional Uyghur pastries, and ate roasted goose eggs, handmade yogurt, and Yangle spicy chicken. There are also many Kazakh restaurants on Hotan Street. We ate horse sausage narin (a traditional meat and noodle dish) and milk tea at the Sai Gulu Ke restaurant, and had a Kazakh breakfast at Baoersake. I also bought an old-fashioned poplar wood sapayi (a traditional percussion instrument) at the Duoluozhe Ethnic Musical Instrument Store in Erdaoqiao, and bought usma (a plant-based eyebrow pencil) on the street. We walked around the Tianshan Vanke mall, which has many Uyghur restaurants and even a restaurant specifically for children's supplementary food. See "Hotan Street, Erdaoqiao, and Tianshan Vanke in Urumqi."

Although I was busy with night prayers during this return to Urumqi, I still found time to visit two small Hui Muslim eateries. The first one is Zainab's childhood treasure restaurant—Heping Bridge Dumpling Restaurant. Their place is a rare, old-school Hui Muslim sour soup dumpling shop in Urumqi. The second place is Xinshenghua Meatball Soup (wanzi tang) for Hui Muslims in Changji. The environment is very nice, the kitchen is open for everyone to see, and the food tastes great. See "Sharing Two Hui Muslim Eateries I Visited in Urumqi This Time."

I went to the Dawan Gongbei in Urumqi to attend the funeral (maitai) for an elder from the Luyuan Street community. After the funeral, I visited the two sages at the Dawan Gongbei. The first is the elder from Weijiapu, the first imam (ahong) to start formal religious education in Urumqi. The second is Imam Ma Zongfu, the leader of the Beiliang Mosque and Beifang Mosque in Urumqi, known to everyone as Elder Datong. See "Visiting the Dawan Gongbei in Urumqi."

March, Wuhan

I returned to Wuhan ten years after graduation. At night, I ate at Diaohuzi Hui Muslim Barbecue in Erqi, Jiang'an. In the morning, I prayed (namaz) at the Jiang'an Mosque. At Chengliji, I caught some freshly fried beef meatballs (niurou yuanzi). At the Yixiangzhai food shop nearby, I bought peanut brittle (huasheng su) and ginger candy (jiangzhi zatang). On the side road of Erqi, I ate three-ingredient noodles and beef mixed noodles at the Halal Shuangbao Red Oil Beef series shop. At noon, I ate Ma's hot dry noodles (reganmian) on Liangdao Street in Wuchang and taro cheese bricks at the Halal Red Brick Wall shop. In the evening, I went to the Yizhiwei Restaurant on Bayi Road to eat Halal Hubei cuisine. See "Returning to Wuhan Ten Years After Graduation (Part 1): Jiang'an Mosque, Central China Normal University, and Wuchang Food."

Early in the morning, I went to the Ma Si Baba Gongbei on Huquan Street to pay my respects. In the afternoon, I drank sand-boiled coffee and ate baklava at a Turkish cafe in Tongxingli, Hankou. In the afternoon, I went to the Fatumei Restaurant on Huangxing Road to eat beef spring rolls, stir-fried beef tripe, and shredded dry-fried beef. See "Returning to Wuhan Ten Years After Graduation (Part 2): Ma Si Baba Gongbei, Turkish Coffee, and Fatumei Restaurant."

March, Hexiwu, Wuqing, Tianjin

I went back to my hometown with my family in Hexiwu Town, Wuqing District, Tianjin. Because it was a key hub for water transport, Hexiwu Town had many Hui Muslim merchants during the Ming and Qing dynasties. There was a Hui Muslim camp southwest of the town, and the Hexiwu Mosque was first built in the early years of the Yongle reign of the Ming Dynasty. After leaving the mosque, we bought the local specialty golden-rimmed braised meat (jinbian koumen) at the Xinpengzhai Restaurant. Then we went to the "First Post Station Snack Street" inside the Hexiwu Farmers' Market. The most famous item there is the yellow rice fried cake (huangmi zhagao) from the century-old Wangji Lirenzhai. Also, the crispy fried dough pockets (gezhe he) of Hexiwu are very famous. See "My Hometown—Hexiwu Town, Wuqing, Tianjin."

May, Yiwu and Lishui, Zhejiang

After four years, we visited Yiwu again. After travel restrictions were lifted, Yiwu became busy again. People from countries in the Middle East and Africa all came to Yiwu to buy goods, and many new Middle Eastern restaurants opened, especially in the Binwang business district. This time, we chose a few of the newly opened restaurants to try. See "Many New Middle Eastern Restaurants Have Opened in Yiwu."

On the afternoon of May 2, I took the high-speed train from Yiwu to Lishui to visit Lishui Mosque. Lishui Mosque has two sections, featuring two gate towers, a front hall, connecting corridors, and a main hall, all in a distinct local Lishui style. The gate towers are the most unique part and are listed as a Lishui City cultural heritage site. See "Visiting Lishui Mosque in Zhejiang."

In May, I visited Fuzhou, Quanzhou, and Xiamen in Fujian.

I visited Fuzhou Mosque at Nanmendou and went to pay my respects at the tomb of the Sheikh (shaihai) inside the Hui Muslim cemetery on Meifeng Road. The Fuzhou Museum displays three Song and Yuan dynasty tombstone carvings from Quanzhou. I had lunch at the famous Turkish restaurant Aladdin, then returned to Fuzhou Mosque for Jumu'ah prayer. See "Jumu'ah in Fuzhou: Fuzhou Mosque, Sheikh Tomb, Song and Yuan Stone Carvings, and a Turkish Restaurant."

I went to Qingjing Mosque in Quanzhou for Zuhr prayer. Imam Ma of Qingjing Mosque is from Hualong, Qinghai. During the day, he leads prayers in the main hall donated by Oman, and after the tourist area closes, he leads prayers in the smaller Mingshan Hall. The next morning, I continued exploring Qingjing Mosque. See "The Thousand-Year-Old Qingjing Mosque in Quanzhou."

Lingshan Holy Tomb is in the east of Quanzhou city, also known as the Tomb of the Three and Four Sages. The holy tomb currently has two granite graves divided into three layers, with lotus petal carvings on the bottom layer. In 1958, when the Fuzhou-Xiamen highway outside the East Gate of Quanzhou was widened, several Song and Yuan dynasty Muslim pedestal-style tomb stones by the road were moved next to the Lingshan Holy Tomb. Next to the Lingshan Holy Tomb is the cemetery for local Quanzhou Hui Muslims. The Ge, Ma, and Huang families are descendants of the generations of imams who served at Qingjing Mosque. A large section of the Lingshan Sacred Tomb scenic area is dedicated to the Ding family cemetery from Chendai. See "Lingshan Holy Tomb in Quanzhou."

At noon, I took a taxi south of Quanzhou to Chendai Mosque for Asr prayer and visited the Chendai Hui Muslim History Museum located inside the Ding Family Ancestral Hall. See "Chendai Mosque and the Chendai Hui Muslim History Museum in Quanzhou, Fujian."

In Quanzhou, besides the famous Baiqi Guo family of Hui Muslims, there is also a branch of the Jundong Guo family of Hui Muslims. Today, the Xingzhai Guo Family Ancestral Hall is a large Southern Fujian-style ancestral hall with three rows of buildings, two courtyards, and two side houses. It is a Quanzhou cultural heritage site and serves as the cultural activity center for the Xingzhai Hui Muslim Seniors Association. Inside the Guo Family Ancestral Hall in Xingzhai, there are several stone tablets, one of which is inscribed with 'Site of the Islamic Mosque'. See 'Echoes of the Faith: The Guo Family Mosque of the Hui Muslims in Xingzhai, Quanzhou'.

The Quanzhou Maritime Museum was built in 1959. In 2003, the Quanzhou Islamic Culture Exhibition Hall was completed, and in 2008, the 'Arabs and Persians in Quanzhou' exhibition officially opened, displaying over 200 stone carvings from the Song and Yuan dynasties related to the faith. See 'Song and Yuan Dynasty Islamic Stone Carvings in the Quanzhou Maritime Museum Collection'.

At noon, I visited the Xiamen Mosque and was very grateful to have braised noodles (huimian) made by Imam Liu. Inside the Xiamen Mosque, there are two stone tablets dating back to 1902 (the 28th year of the Guangxu reign) and 1924 (the 13th year of the Republic of China). I had dinner at the main branch of Ma'erlong in the evening. See '[2024 May Day Trip] Xiamen Mosque and Ma'erlong Xinjiang Cuisine'.

The Anthropology Museum of Xiamen University is the first university museum in the People's Republic of China, and it houses a large number of Song and Yuan dynasty Islamic stone carvings from Quanzhou. See 'Song and Yuan Dynasty Islamic Stone Carvings in the Xiamen University Anthropology Museum Collection'.

May: Chengdu, Dujiangyan, and Leshan, Sichuan.

I went to Chengdu for a business trip in May and stayed behind the Huangcheng Mosque. This time, I felt the area in front of the Huangcheng Mosque was much livelier than before, with many new restaurants opened. See 'The Huangcheng Mosque Neighborhood in Chengdu is Great for Exploring'.

Tuqiao is located in the northwest of Chengdu. Since the Qing Dynasty, it has been a necessary stop for merchants traveling to Chengdu from Aba and Songpan via the Songmao Ancient Road. Many Hui Muslims settled here, and during the reigns of Yongzheng and Qianlong, two mosques were built, known as the Tuqiao Lower Mosque and Upper Mosque. On the evening of May 16, I first bought half a smoked duck at Shunji Marinated Meats (Shunji Yanlu) in front of the Tuqiao Upper Mosque. Then, I bought a serving of braised beef offal (shao niuza) with rice at the nearby Dama Ge Beef Restaurant. After coming down from Hufutan, I had some spicy wontons (hongyou chaoshou) at the Old Street Restaurant in front of the Tuqiao Upper Mosque. Tuqiao is very lively in the morning, and a line formed in front of Shunji Marinated Meats. The Sichuan-style marinated meats here are really worth buying. After finishing breakfast, I visited the Tuqiao Hui Muslim Cemetery, which has a history of over 200 years. See 'Tasting Sichuan Delicacies in Tuqiao, Chengdu'.

On May 15, we set off from Chengdu to Dujiangyan and visited the Dujiangyan Mosque at noon. There are many halal restaurants around the Dujiangyan Mosque, where you can eat authentic traditional Hui Muslim dishes from western Sichuan. Huixiangyuan, located right next to the Dujiangyan Mosque, is a long-established restaurant that displays a traditional soup pot (tangping) sign. I had some chilled tofu pudding (bing douhua) at a small snack shop in Dujiangyan; it was soft and very refreshing. See "Ancient Mosques and Food in Dujiangyan, Sichuan."

We left Chengdu early on May 16 and arrived in Leshan after a two-hour drive, heading to the local restaurant Haishi Qiaojiao Beef for lunch. The restaurant is right across from the Leshan Giant Buddha, next to the old Leshan Port on the Min River. Haishi Qiaojiao Beef was founded by Imam Hai Weixiong. Imam Hai is from Qingliu Town in the Rongchang District of Chongqing. His ancestors moved to Sichuan from Hubei and Hunan during the Kangxi reign. In October 1989, he became the first imam of the Leshan Mosque after the policy was restored, serving until 1998 when he retired to go into business. Besides Haishi Qiaojiao Beef in Leshan, there is also Sulaimani Qiaojiao Beef on the Maluqiao Food Street at the foot of Mount Emei. The owners are Hui Muslims from Rong County, Zigong City. See "Eating Qiaojiao Beef in Leshan and Mount Emei, Sichuan."

June, Liaocheng and Linqing, Shandong

Seven years later, I visited the Dongguan Hui Muslim community in Liaocheng again. There are two mosques in Liaocheng Dongguan: the west one is commonly known as the Great Mosque (Da Libaisi), and the east one is called the Small Mosque (Xiao Libaisi). The "Great and Small Mosque Street District" in Liaocheng Dongguan is among the first batch of historical and cultural districts in Shandong Province and serves as an important historical witness to the Hui Muslim communities along the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal during the Ming and Qing dynasties. See "Revisiting the Great and Small Mosque Streets in Liaocheng Dongguan."

We took a train from Liaocheng to Linqing and went to Baoliang First Shop to eat a meat-filled pancake roll (bing juan rou). In the afternoon, we prayed the Dhuhr (lidigele) prayer at the North Mosque in Linqing, then went to the East Mosque across the street to pray the Asr (shamu) and Maghrib (hufutan) prayers. After the Asr prayer, we ate big bowls of food at Erliang Diguo Millet Porridge at the intersection of Xianfeng Road and Dazhong Road. After the Maghrib prayer, I rode my bike to the Linqing Women's Mosque to find Zainab. In the morning, we had breakfast at Kong Family Steamed Bowl (kouwan) at the Xianfeng Road intersection. After eating, we went to Xianfeng Road to have tofu brain (doufunao) and old tofu (lao doufu). At noon, we ate Wang Family Ten-Fragrance Noodles (shixiang mian) on Xinhua Road, then went to Hongguanying Mosque in Linxi County, Xingtai, Hebei, to pray the Dhuhr (pieshen) prayer. On the way back, we bought deep-stir-fried meat tenderloin (ganzha liji), meat-filled baked buns (rou huoshao), and smoked pigeon (xunge). See "The Ancient Canal City of Linqing, Shandong."

June: Shenyang, Xinmin, Dalian, Fuzhou, Fengcheng, Dandong, and Xinlitun in Liaoning.

I went to Liaoning for the Dragon Boat Festival holiday. I took a high-speed train from Beijing Chaoyang Station to Shenyang in the evening. The next morning, I went to the Lijiang Morning Market in Shenyang and had lamb soup, shaomai, and pan-fried meat pies (huitou) at Heige Lamb Soup. On the third morning, I visited the Bayi Morning Market in Shenyang again. Shenyang has so many morning markets, and every one of them is full of delicious food. After the market, I took a train from Shenyang Station to Xinmin to visit the Xinmin Mosque. At the halal restaurants around the Xinmin Mosque, you can see signs for the Jin, Bai, and Yang families. See "[Dragon Boat Festival Liaoning Trip] Visiting Shenyang Morning Markets and the Ancient Xinmin Mosque."

On the morning of June 8, I took a train from Shenyang to the ancient city of Fuzhou and had "Fuzhou old-style dishes" at the Qunfangyuan Restaurant near the Fuzhou city roundabout. After lunch, we went to the Fuzhou Mosque for namaz. The imam of the Fuzhou Mosque is from Mengcun, Cangzhou, Hebei. Hui Muslim homes in Fuzhou city. The old street has blue bricks and dark tiles, with Arabic calligraphy on the walls, keeping the look of the old days. There is a legendary halal food spot in Fuzhou city, which is my friend's family shop, Yin's sticky rice cake (jiangmi lianggao). In the afternoon, I took a high-speed train from Wafangdian West Station to Dalian North Station and had dinner at the long-established Ma's Dumpling Restaurant (Ma Jia Jiaozi Guan) in front of Dalian Railway Station. After dinner, I went to the Dalian Mosque on Beijing Street for namaz. The next morning, I left from Dalian Station for Qingdui, then took a taxi to the ancient town of Qingdui to visit the Qingdui Mosque. See "[Dragon Boat Festival Liaoning Trip] Dalian City, Fuzhou Ancient City, and Qingdui Ancient Town."

At noon on June 9, I took a train from Dalian to Fengcheng. At Wenbin Snack Bar, I had the Dandong-style stir-fried corn noodles (chao chazi), and also ordered corn grit eight-treasure porridge (dazhazi babaozhou) and a 6-yuan vegetable platter. After eating, I went to the Fengcheng Mosque for namaz. The imam of the Fengcheng Mosque is also from Cangzhou. In the afternoon, I took a train from Fengcheng to Dandong and visited the Dandong Mosque. The entrance to the mosque was very busy. In the afternoon, I had dinner at the long-established Jinlongge Restaurant in Dandong. They have a wide variety of traditional stir-fried dishes and seafood. See "[Dragon Boat Festival Liaoning Trip] Fengcheng Ancient Mosque and Dandong Food."

On the morning of June 10, I took a high-speed train from Liaoning's Xinmin North Station, arrived at Heishan North Station in 15 minutes, and then took a taxi to Xinlitun Town. I performed the afternoon prayer (peshin) at Xinlitun Mosque, where the imam, Ma, is from Cangzhou. There are many halal restaurants in Xinlitun, but many were closed for the Dragon Boat Festival. We bought beef jerky and smoked dried tofu (xungan doufu) at Wang Zijing Deli, and both were delicious! In the afternoon, we took a train from Xinlitun Railway Station to Fuxin South Station. We performed the late afternoon prayer (asr) and sunset prayer (maghrib) at Fuxin Mosque, then had dinner at Daijia Restaurant Huiweizhai near the mosque.
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2024 Halal Travel Summary: Singapore, Malaysia, China and Beyond (Jan-Jun)

Articlesali2007fr posted the article • 0 comments • 12 views • 17 hours ago • data from similar tags

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Summary: This 2024 travel summary covers the first half of the year, including trips through Singapore, Malaysia, China, and other destinations with halal food and Muslim travel notes. It keeps the original route, dates, places, photographs, and food details as a clear English travel record.

January in Singapore.

I traveled to Singapore in January and tasted various halal Chinese dishes. I found prawn noodles (xia mian), Hakka stuffed tofu (niang doufu), Hong Kong-style dim sum, Hainanese chicken rice, and stir-fry tea house dishes run by Hui Muslims. See "Tasting Halal Chinese Food in Singapore."

I discovered a halal-certified Peranakan restaurant in Singapore called Old Nyonya Kitchen (Lao Niangre Xiaochu) on Joo Chiat Road. Also, in Bedok North Street in eastern Singapore, there is a 60-year-old shop called Lu Lin Nyonya Kueh. They have a shop in front and a factory in the back, selling all kinds of halal Nyonya cakes (kueh). See "Eating Nyonya Food in Singapore."

Singapore has a very strong Indian culture. Tamil people from the southeastern coast of India built the Al-Abrar Mosque and the Jamae Mosque in Chinatown, as well as the Nagore Dargah, a Sufi shrine (gongbei). Little India is the liveliest place in Singapore. The shophouses on both sides are filled with Indian shops. At the southern end, there is the Abdul Gafoor Mosque built by Tamils, and at the northern end, there is the Angullia Mosque built by Gujaratis. The Tekka Centre in Little India has a row of Indian food stalls, and there is also the Indian Heritage Centre that introduces Indian culture. Kampong Glam has many century-old Indian shops. Some specialize in roti prata (fei bing), and some were even favored by British governors. See "Experiencing Indian Muslim Culture in Singapore."

The Asian Civilisations Museum in Singapore originally focused on collecting crafts from Malays and other indigenous peoples of Southeast Asia. After the 1990s, it expanded its scope to collect items from West and South Asia, gradually becoming a museum that showcases the intersection of different Asian cultures and civilizations. See "Visiting the Asian Civilisations Museum in Singapore."

In Fort Canning Park, Singapore, there is the tomb of Sultan Iskandar Shah of Singapore, who is said to be the founder of the Malacca Sultanate. Archaeologists discovered thousands of 14th-century artifacts near the Sultan's tomb, many of which came from China and Java. At the foot of Mount Faber in southern Singapore, there is the tomb of Temenggong Abdul Rahman, one of the founders of modern Singapore, and his family. Kampong Glam in Singapore was originally the land of Sultan Hussein of Johor. The Sultan's family built the Sultan Mosque, the palace, and the Prime Minister's office here, and there is also a cemetery for the Sultan's family in the north. On the east side of Kampong Glam, there is the Hajjah Fatimah Mosque built by a Malay noblewoman. East of the Sultan's palace is the former site of a publishing house founded by members of the Sultan's family. Kampong Glam has several long-standing Padang rice (padang fan) restaurants that are well worth eating at. See "The Malays and the Early History of Singapore."

After Singapore was established as a free trade port in 1819, the Aljunied family from Yemen, who were doing business in Palembang, Sumatra, immediately came to Singapore and then established a spice and batik clothing trade network there. After that, other Arab merchants also came to Singapore to open shops, gradually forming Arab Street. We visited a batik and Nyonya clothing store opened by the Aljunied family in 1940, and bought traditional batik clothing at another batik shop opened by people of Yemeni descent. Another family from Yemen, the Alsagoff family, once dominated the spice trade in Singapore. They founded the oldest existing Islamic school (madrasa) in Singapore and built a shrine (gongbei) for a Yemeni Sufi sage in Singapore. See "Arab Merchants in Singapore."

Geylang Serai is located in the eastern part of Singapore. In the early 20th century, it became an important Malay community in Singapore. The Geylang Serai Market is the largest Malay market in Singapore, where you can taste various Malay delicacies. The nearby Haig Road Market and Food Centre also have many Malay delicacies. On the second floor of City Plaza near the Geylang River, you can find Singapore's last shop making handmade traditional caps (songkok). The Malay Heritage Centre is located next to the Geylang Serai Market. See "Visiting the Malay Market in Geylang Serai, Singapore."

January: Johor Bahru, Seremban, Klang, Ipoh, and Kuala Kangsar, Malaysia.

We went to Malaysia to eat various halal Chinese meals. In Johor Bahru, we ate at the Hainanese coffee shop Hua Mui and visited the Johor Bahru Chinese Heritage Museum. In Seremban, we ate at the halal Chinese restaurants Muhammad Kew and Mohd Chan. In Klang, we ate at the halal Chinese restaurants Yiqi Chichi and Rahmat Tan. In Ipoh, we ate at the famous halal Chinese restaurant Lau Kee, the halal Chinese stir-fry shop Gerai Ipoh Ipoh Aje, and stayed at the heritage shophouse hotel Sarang Paloh. In Kuala Kangsar, we ate at the old-school Hainanese coffee shop Yut Loy. See "Tasting Halal Chinese Food in Malaysia."

After the 14th century, the Minangkabau people living on Sumatra Island crossed the Strait of Malacca to settle in Negeri Sembilan on the Malay Peninsula. Today, you can experience Minangkabau culture at the Negeri Sembilan State Museum. On the hill to the east of Seremban Lake Garden is the Tuanku Ja'afar Royal Gallery. In the city center, there is the century-old Jamek Mosque and the famous long-standing shop Haji Shariff's Cendol. See "Negeri Sembilan: The Settlement of the Minangkabau People in Malaysia."

Kuala Kangsar is located in Perak, Malaysia. It has been the royal city of the Sultan of Perak since the 18th century, where you can feel the authentic Malay village (kampung) atmosphere. On Friday, we visited the night market at the Kuala Kangsar Market and tasted various Malay snacks. The core area of the Perak Sultan's royal city is on Bukit Chandan hill. It features the Istana Hulu built in 1898 (currently closed), the Ubudiah Mosque built in 1913, the Perak Royal Mausoleum built in 1915, the Perak Prince's wooden house built in 1912, the bamboo-walled Istana Kenangan built in 1926, and the Istana Iskandariah built in 1933 (not open to the public). See "The Royal City of the Perak Sultan and the Lively Malay Night Market."

Ipoh is located in Perak, Malaysia, and is known as the "City of Tin." In the late 19th century, many South Indian Tamils came to Ipoh to make a living, and the Ipoh Indian Mosque was built in 1908. Some North Indian Pathans (Pashtun descent) and Punjabis also came to Ipoh to work as police officers, and they built the Pakistan Mosque in Ipoh's Little India in 1930. In Ipoh's old town, we ate at a Tamil mamak stall that has been serving rice with curry (nasi kandar) for over 50 years, and we also had durian shaved ice (cendol) in the old town. The center for Malay people in Ipoh is the Panglima Kinta Mosque, built in 1898 by the Kinta River. See "Indian and Malay Mosques in Ipoh, Malaysia."

The Muhammadiah Mosque in Tasek, in the northern suburbs of Ipoh, was rebuilt under the leadership of the Ipoh branch of the Malaysian Chinese Muslim Association. It is the first mosque in Malaysia with a purely Chinese architectural style, and you can see Chinese characters everywhere inside. I performed the Friday prayer (namaz) at the mosque and met Dato' Sheikh Abdul Rahman, the chairman of the Ipoh branch of the Chinese Muslim Association. See "Performing Friday Prayer at a Chinese Mosque in Malaysia."

In 1889, Sultan Abu Bakar of Johor officially moved the royal capital to Johor Bahru. The Sultan Abu Bakar Mosque is a mosque in Malaysia with a very distinct Victorian style. The Mahmoodiah Royal Mausoleum is the royal burial ground for the Sultans of Johor, and it also uses Victorian architectural style. The Pasir Pelangi Royal Mosque is located next to the Pasir Pelangi Palace of the Sultan of Johor, and the entire structure is in a neoclassical style. The Johor Art Gallery has many works by Johor artists, and there is a young man on-site to guide you through the experience of traditional tie-dyeing. There are traditional Johor Malay buildings in the courtyard where you can change into traditional clothes for photos. On Jalan Dhoby in the old town of Johor Bahru, there is a traditional Indian bakery that has been open for over 80 years, and there is also an Indian mosque nearby. See "The Royal City of the Temenggong Dynasty of the Johor Sultanate—Johor Bahru."

On Jalan Tan Hiok Nee, a street with century-old arcade buildings in the old town of Johor Bahru, you will find Nyonya Dynasty, the first Nyonya restaurant in Johor state to receive halal certification. There are three halal Nyonya restaurants in the NU Sentral mall opposite KL Sentral in Kuala Lumpur, and this time we ate at the largest of the three, Peranakan Place. See "Eating Nyonya Cuisine in Johor Bahru and Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia."

Selangor is located on the west coast of the Malay Peninsula. After the 17th century, the Bugis people from Sulawesi Island entered Selangor as mercenaries and established the Sultanate of Selangor in the 18th century. In 1874, the Selangor royal city was destroyed in a civil war, and Sultan Abdul Samad moved the royal city to the foot of Jugra Hill inside the mouth of the Selangor River. Today, two historical buildings, the Alaeddin Palace and the Alaeddin Mosque, are still preserved here. The Sultan also built the Alam Shah Palace in Klang. The Sultan Sulaiman Royal Mosque, which is right next to the palace, uses Art Deco style. The Sultan Abdul Aziz Royal Gallery is located in the center of the old town of Klang. The arcade area of Klang's old town has a lively Little India neighborhood, and the Indian mosque is a landmark building. See "The Royal City of the Sultan of Selangor—Jugra, Klang."

February, Urumqi.

Hotan Street is a famous food street in Urumqi. We ate the Kashgar Yibazhua (a type of meat bun) that had the longest line on Hotan Second Street, drank pigeon soup, bought traditional Uyghur pastries, and ate roasted goose eggs, handmade yogurt, and Yangle spicy chicken. There are also many Kazakh restaurants on Hotan Street. We ate horse sausage narin (a traditional meat and noodle dish) and milk tea at the Sai Gulu Ke restaurant, and had a Kazakh breakfast at Baoersake. I also bought an old-fashioned poplar wood sapayi (a traditional percussion instrument) at the Duoluozhe Ethnic Musical Instrument Store in Erdaoqiao, and bought usma (a plant-based eyebrow pencil) on the street. We walked around the Tianshan Vanke mall, which has many Uyghur restaurants and even a restaurant specifically for children's supplementary food. See "Hotan Street, Erdaoqiao, and Tianshan Vanke in Urumqi."

Although I was busy with night prayers during this return to Urumqi, I still found time to visit two small Hui Muslim eateries. The first one is Zainab's childhood treasure restaurant—Heping Bridge Dumpling Restaurant. Their place is a rare, old-school Hui Muslim sour soup dumpling shop in Urumqi. The second place is Xinshenghua Meatball Soup (wanzi tang) for Hui Muslims in Changji. The environment is very nice, the kitchen is open for everyone to see, and the food tastes great. See "Sharing Two Hui Muslim Eateries I Visited in Urumqi This Time."

I went to the Dawan Gongbei in Urumqi to attend the funeral (maitai) for an elder from the Luyuan Street community. After the funeral, I visited the two sages at the Dawan Gongbei. The first is the elder from Weijiapu, the first imam (ahong) to start formal religious education in Urumqi. The second is Imam Ma Zongfu, the leader of the Beiliang Mosque and Beifang Mosque in Urumqi, known to everyone as Elder Datong. See "Visiting the Dawan Gongbei in Urumqi."

March, Wuhan

I returned to Wuhan ten years after graduation. At night, I ate at Diaohuzi Hui Muslim Barbecue in Erqi, Jiang'an. In the morning, I prayed (namaz) at the Jiang'an Mosque. At Chengliji, I caught some freshly fried beef meatballs (niurou yuanzi). At the Yixiangzhai food shop nearby, I bought peanut brittle (huasheng su) and ginger candy (jiangzhi zatang). On the side road of Erqi, I ate three-ingredient noodles and beef mixed noodles at the Halal Shuangbao Red Oil Beef series shop. At noon, I ate Ma's hot dry noodles (reganmian) on Liangdao Street in Wuchang and taro cheese bricks at the Halal Red Brick Wall shop. In the evening, I went to the Yizhiwei Restaurant on Bayi Road to eat Halal Hubei cuisine. See "Returning to Wuhan Ten Years After Graduation (Part 1): Jiang'an Mosque, Central China Normal University, and Wuchang Food."

Early in the morning, I went to the Ma Si Baba Gongbei on Huquan Street to pay my respects. In the afternoon, I drank sand-boiled coffee and ate baklava at a Turkish cafe in Tongxingli, Hankou. In the afternoon, I went to the Fatumei Restaurant on Huangxing Road to eat beef spring rolls, stir-fried beef tripe, and shredded dry-fried beef. See "Returning to Wuhan Ten Years After Graduation (Part 2): Ma Si Baba Gongbei, Turkish Coffee, and Fatumei Restaurant."

March, Hexiwu, Wuqing, Tianjin

I went back to my hometown with my family in Hexiwu Town, Wuqing District, Tianjin. Because it was a key hub for water transport, Hexiwu Town had many Hui Muslim merchants during the Ming and Qing dynasties. There was a Hui Muslim camp southwest of the town, and the Hexiwu Mosque was first built in the early years of the Yongle reign of the Ming Dynasty. After leaving the mosque, we bought the local specialty golden-rimmed braised meat (jinbian koumen) at the Xinpengzhai Restaurant. Then we went to the "First Post Station Snack Street" inside the Hexiwu Farmers' Market. The most famous item there is the yellow rice fried cake (huangmi zhagao) from the century-old Wangji Lirenzhai. Also, the crispy fried dough pockets (gezhe he) of Hexiwu are very famous. See "My Hometown—Hexiwu Town, Wuqing, Tianjin."

May, Yiwu and Lishui, Zhejiang

After four years, we visited Yiwu again. After travel restrictions were lifted, Yiwu became busy again. People from countries in the Middle East and Africa all came to Yiwu to buy goods, and many new Middle Eastern restaurants opened, especially in the Binwang business district. This time, we chose a few of the newly opened restaurants to try. See "Many New Middle Eastern Restaurants Have Opened in Yiwu."

On the afternoon of May 2, I took the high-speed train from Yiwu to Lishui to visit Lishui Mosque. Lishui Mosque has two sections, featuring two gate towers, a front hall, connecting corridors, and a main hall, all in a distinct local Lishui style. The gate towers are the most unique part and are listed as a Lishui City cultural heritage site. See "Visiting Lishui Mosque in Zhejiang."

In May, I visited Fuzhou, Quanzhou, and Xiamen in Fujian.

I visited Fuzhou Mosque at Nanmendou and went to pay my respects at the tomb of the Sheikh (shaihai) inside the Hui Muslim cemetery on Meifeng Road. The Fuzhou Museum displays three Song and Yuan dynasty tombstone carvings from Quanzhou. I had lunch at the famous Turkish restaurant Aladdin, then returned to Fuzhou Mosque for Jumu'ah prayer. See "Jumu'ah in Fuzhou: Fuzhou Mosque, Sheikh Tomb, Song and Yuan Stone Carvings, and a Turkish Restaurant."

I went to Qingjing Mosque in Quanzhou for Zuhr prayer. Imam Ma of Qingjing Mosque is from Hualong, Qinghai. During the day, he leads prayers in the main hall donated by Oman, and after the tourist area closes, he leads prayers in the smaller Mingshan Hall. The next morning, I continued exploring Qingjing Mosque. See "The Thousand-Year-Old Qingjing Mosque in Quanzhou."

Lingshan Holy Tomb is in the east of Quanzhou city, also known as the Tomb of the Three and Four Sages. The holy tomb currently has two granite graves divided into three layers, with lotus petal carvings on the bottom layer. In 1958, when the Fuzhou-Xiamen highway outside the East Gate of Quanzhou was widened, several Song and Yuan dynasty Muslim pedestal-style tomb stones by the road were moved next to the Lingshan Holy Tomb. Next to the Lingshan Holy Tomb is the cemetery for local Quanzhou Hui Muslims. The Ge, Ma, and Huang families are descendants of the generations of imams who served at Qingjing Mosque. A large section of the Lingshan Sacred Tomb scenic area is dedicated to the Ding family cemetery from Chendai. See "Lingshan Holy Tomb in Quanzhou."

At noon, I took a taxi south of Quanzhou to Chendai Mosque for Asr prayer and visited the Chendai Hui Muslim History Museum located inside the Ding Family Ancestral Hall. See "Chendai Mosque and the Chendai Hui Muslim History Museum in Quanzhou, Fujian."

In Quanzhou, besides the famous Baiqi Guo family of Hui Muslims, there is also a branch of the Jundong Guo family of Hui Muslims. Today, the Xingzhai Guo Family Ancestral Hall is a large Southern Fujian-style ancestral hall with three rows of buildings, two courtyards, and two side houses. It is a Quanzhou cultural heritage site and serves as the cultural activity center for the Xingzhai Hui Muslim Seniors Association. Inside the Guo Family Ancestral Hall in Xingzhai, there are several stone tablets, one of which is inscribed with 'Site of the Islamic Mosque'. See 'Echoes of the Faith: The Guo Family Mosque of the Hui Muslims in Xingzhai, Quanzhou'.

The Quanzhou Maritime Museum was built in 1959. In 2003, the Quanzhou Islamic Culture Exhibition Hall was completed, and in 2008, the 'Arabs and Persians in Quanzhou' exhibition officially opened, displaying over 200 stone carvings from the Song and Yuan dynasties related to the faith. See 'Song and Yuan Dynasty Islamic Stone Carvings in the Quanzhou Maritime Museum Collection'.

At noon, I visited the Xiamen Mosque and was very grateful to have braised noodles (huimian) made by Imam Liu. Inside the Xiamen Mosque, there are two stone tablets dating back to 1902 (the 28th year of the Guangxu reign) and 1924 (the 13th year of the Republic of China). I had dinner at the main branch of Ma'erlong in the evening. See '[2024 May Day Trip] Xiamen Mosque and Ma'erlong Xinjiang Cuisine'.

The Anthropology Museum of Xiamen University is the first university museum in the People's Republic of China, and it houses a large number of Song and Yuan dynasty Islamic stone carvings from Quanzhou. See 'Song and Yuan Dynasty Islamic Stone Carvings in the Xiamen University Anthropology Museum Collection'.

May: Chengdu, Dujiangyan, and Leshan, Sichuan.

I went to Chengdu for a business trip in May and stayed behind the Huangcheng Mosque. This time, I felt the area in front of the Huangcheng Mosque was much livelier than before, with many new restaurants opened. See 'The Huangcheng Mosque Neighborhood in Chengdu is Great for Exploring'.

Tuqiao is located in the northwest of Chengdu. Since the Qing Dynasty, it has been a necessary stop for merchants traveling to Chengdu from Aba and Songpan via the Songmao Ancient Road. Many Hui Muslims settled here, and during the reigns of Yongzheng and Qianlong, two mosques were built, known as the Tuqiao Lower Mosque and Upper Mosque. On the evening of May 16, I first bought half a smoked duck at Shunji Marinated Meats (Shunji Yanlu) in front of the Tuqiao Upper Mosque. Then, I bought a serving of braised beef offal (shao niuza) with rice at the nearby Dama Ge Beef Restaurant. After coming down from Hufutan, I had some spicy wontons (hongyou chaoshou) at the Old Street Restaurant in front of the Tuqiao Upper Mosque. Tuqiao is very lively in the morning, and a line formed in front of Shunji Marinated Meats. The Sichuan-style marinated meats here are really worth buying. After finishing breakfast, I visited the Tuqiao Hui Muslim Cemetery, which has a history of over 200 years. See 'Tasting Sichuan Delicacies in Tuqiao, Chengdu'.

On May 15, we set off from Chengdu to Dujiangyan and visited the Dujiangyan Mosque at noon. There are many halal restaurants around the Dujiangyan Mosque, where you can eat authentic traditional Hui Muslim dishes from western Sichuan. Huixiangyuan, located right next to the Dujiangyan Mosque, is a long-established restaurant that displays a traditional soup pot (tangping) sign. I had some chilled tofu pudding (bing douhua) at a small snack shop in Dujiangyan; it was soft and very refreshing. See "Ancient Mosques and Food in Dujiangyan, Sichuan."

We left Chengdu early on May 16 and arrived in Leshan after a two-hour drive, heading to the local restaurant Haishi Qiaojiao Beef for lunch. The restaurant is right across from the Leshan Giant Buddha, next to the old Leshan Port on the Min River. Haishi Qiaojiao Beef was founded by Imam Hai Weixiong. Imam Hai is from Qingliu Town in the Rongchang District of Chongqing. His ancestors moved to Sichuan from Hubei and Hunan during the Kangxi reign. In October 1989, he became the first imam of the Leshan Mosque after the policy was restored, serving until 1998 when he retired to go into business. Besides Haishi Qiaojiao Beef in Leshan, there is also Sulaimani Qiaojiao Beef on the Maluqiao Food Street at the foot of Mount Emei. The owners are Hui Muslims from Rong County, Zigong City. See "Eating Qiaojiao Beef in Leshan and Mount Emei, Sichuan."

June, Liaocheng and Linqing, Shandong

Seven years later, I visited the Dongguan Hui Muslim community in Liaocheng again. There are two mosques in Liaocheng Dongguan: the west one is commonly known as the Great Mosque (Da Libaisi), and the east one is called the Small Mosque (Xiao Libaisi). The "Great and Small Mosque Street District" in Liaocheng Dongguan is among the first batch of historical and cultural districts in Shandong Province and serves as an important historical witness to the Hui Muslim communities along the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal during the Ming and Qing dynasties. See "Revisiting the Great and Small Mosque Streets in Liaocheng Dongguan."

We took a train from Liaocheng to Linqing and went to Baoliang First Shop to eat a meat-filled pancake roll (bing juan rou). In the afternoon, we prayed the Dhuhr (lidigele) prayer at the North Mosque in Linqing, then went to the East Mosque across the street to pray the Asr (shamu) and Maghrib (hufutan) prayers. After the Asr prayer, we ate big bowls of food at Erliang Diguo Millet Porridge at the intersection of Xianfeng Road and Dazhong Road. After the Maghrib prayer, I rode my bike to the Linqing Women's Mosque to find Zainab. In the morning, we had breakfast at Kong Family Steamed Bowl (kouwan) at the Xianfeng Road intersection. After eating, we went to Xianfeng Road to have tofu brain (doufunao) and old tofu (lao doufu). At noon, we ate Wang Family Ten-Fragrance Noodles (shixiang mian) on Xinhua Road, then went to Hongguanying Mosque in Linxi County, Xingtai, Hebei, to pray the Dhuhr (pieshen) prayer. On the way back, we bought deep-stir-fried meat tenderloin (ganzha liji), meat-filled baked buns (rou huoshao), and smoked pigeon (xunge). See "The Ancient Canal City of Linqing, Shandong."

June: Shenyang, Xinmin, Dalian, Fuzhou, Fengcheng, Dandong, and Xinlitun in Liaoning.

I went to Liaoning for the Dragon Boat Festival holiday. I took a high-speed train from Beijing Chaoyang Station to Shenyang in the evening. The next morning, I went to the Lijiang Morning Market in Shenyang and had lamb soup, shaomai, and pan-fried meat pies (huitou) at Heige Lamb Soup. On the third morning, I visited the Bayi Morning Market in Shenyang again. Shenyang has so many morning markets, and every one of them is full of delicious food. After the market, I took a train from Shenyang Station to Xinmin to visit the Xinmin Mosque. At the halal restaurants around the Xinmin Mosque, you can see signs for the Jin, Bai, and Yang families. See "[Dragon Boat Festival Liaoning Trip] Visiting Shenyang Morning Markets and the Ancient Xinmin Mosque."

On the morning of June 8, I took a train from Shenyang to the ancient city of Fuzhou and had "Fuzhou old-style dishes" at the Qunfangyuan Restaurant near the Fuzhou city roundabout. After lunch, we went to the Fuzhou Mosque for namaz. The imam of the Fuzhou Mosque is from Mengcun, Cangzhou, Hebei. Hui Muslim homes in Fuzhou city. The old street has blue bricks and dark tiles, with Arabic calligraphy on the walls, keeping the look of the old days. There is a legendary halal food spot in Fuzhou city, which is my friend's family shop, Yin's sticky rice cake (jiangmi lianggao). In the afternoon, I took a high-speed train from Wafangdian West Station to Dalian North Station and had dinner at the long-established Ma's Dumpling Restaurant (Ma Jia Jiaozi Guan) in front of Dalian Railway Station. After dinner, I went to the Dalian Mosque on Beijing Street for namaz. The next morning, I left from Dalian Station for Qingdui, then took a taxi to the ancient town of Qingdui to visit the Qingdui Mosque. See "[Dragon Boat Festival Liaoning Trip] Dalian City, Fuzhou Ancient City, and Qingdui Ancient Town."

At noon on June 9, I took a train from Dalian to Fengcheng. At Wenbin Snack Bar, I had the Dandong-style stir-fried corn noodles (chao chazi), and also ordered corn grit eight-treasure porridge (dazhazi babaozhou) and a 6-yuan vegetable platter. After eating, I went to the Fengcheng Mosque for namaz. The imam of the Fengcheng Mosque is also from Cangzhou. In the afternoon, I took a train from Fengcheng to Dandong and visited the Dandong Mosque. The entrance to the mosque was very busy. In the afternoon, I had dinner at the long-established Jinlongge Restaurant in Dandong. They have a wide variety of traditional stir-fried dishes and seafood. See "[Dragon Boat Festival Liaoning Trip] Fengcheng Ancient Mosque and Dandong Food."

On the morning of June 10, I took a high-speed train from Liaoning's Xinmin North Station, arrived at Heishan North Station in 15 minutes, and then took a taxi to Xinlitun Town. I performed the afternoon prayer (peshin) at Xinlitun Mosque, where the imam, Ma, is from Cangzhou. There are many halal restaurants in Xinlitun, but many were closed for the Dragon Boat Festival. We bought beef jerky and smoked dried tofu (xungan doufu) at Wang Zijing Deli, and both were delicious! In the afternoon, we took a train from Xinlitun Railway Station to Fuxin South Station. We performed the late afternoon prayer (asr) and sunset prayer (maghrib) at Fuxin Mosque, then had dinner at Daijia Restaurant Huiweizhai near the mosque. view all
Reposted from the web

Summary: This 2024 travel summary covers the first half of the year, including trips through Singapore, Malaysia, China, and other destinations with halal food and Muslim travel notes. It keeps the original route, dates, places, photographs, and food details as a clear English travel record.

January in Singapore.

I traveled to Singapore in January and tasted various halal Chinese dishes. I found prawn noodles (xia mian), Hakka stuffed tofu (niang doufu), Hong Kong-style dim sum, Hainanese chicken rice, and stir-fry tea house dishes run by Hui Muslims. See "Tasting Halal Chinese Food in Singapore."

I discovered a halal-certified Peranakan restaurant in Singapore called Old Nyonya Kitchen (Lao Niangre Xiaochu) on Joo Chiat Road. Also, in Bedok North Street in eastern Singapore, there is a 60-year-old shop called Lu Lin Nyonya Kueh. They have a shop in front and a factory in the back, selling all kinds of halal Nyonya cakes (kueh). See "Eating Nyonya Food in Singapore."

Singapore has a very strong Indian culture. Tamil people from the southeastern coast of India built the Al-Abrar Mosque and the Jamae Mosque in Chinatown, as well as the Nagore Dargah, a Sufi shrine (gongbei). Little India is the liveliest place in Singapore. The shophouses on both sides are filled with Indian shops. At the southern end, there is the Abdul Gafoor Mosque built by Tamils, and at the northern end, there is the Angullia Mosque built by Gujaratis. The Tekka Centre in Little India has a row of Indian food stalls, and there is also the Indian Heritage Centre that introduces Indian culture. Kampong Glam has many century-old Indian shops. Some specialize in roti prata (fei bing), and some were even favored by British governors. See "Experiencing Indian Muslim Culture in Singapore."

The Asian Civilisations Museum in Singapore originally focused on collecting crafts from Malays and other indigenous peoples of Southeast Asia. After the 1990s, it expanded its scope to collect items from West and South Asia, gradually becoming a museum that showcases the intersection of different Asian cultures and civilizations. See "Visiting the Asian Civilisations Museum in Singapore."

In Fort Canning Park, Singapore, there is the tomb of Sultan Iskandar Shah of Singapore, who is said to be the founder of the Malacca Sultanate. Archaeologists discovered thousands of 14th-century artifacts near the Sultan's tomb, many of which came from China and Java. At the foot of Mount Faber in southern Singapore, there is the tomb of Temenggong Abdul Rahman, one of the founders of modern Singapore, and his family. Kampong Glam in Singapore was originally the land of Sultan Hussein of Johor. The Sultan's family built the Sultan Mosque, the palace, and the Prime Minister's office here, and there is also a cemetery for the Sultan's family in the north. On the east side of Kampong Glam, there is the Hajjah Fatimah Mosque built by a Malay noblewoman. East of the Sultan's palace is the former site of a publishing house founded by members of the Sultan's family. Kampong Glam has several long-standing Padang rice (padang fan) restaurants that are well worth eating at. See "The Malays and the Early History of Singapore."

After Singapore was established as a free trade port in 1819, the Aljunied family from Yemen, who were doing business in Palembang, Sumatra, immediately came to Singapore and then established a spice and batik clothing trade network there. After that, other Arab merchants also came to Singapore to open shops, gradually forming Arab Street. We visited a batik and Nyonya clothing store opened by the Aljunied family in 1940, and bought traditional batik clothing at another batik shop opened by people of Yemeni descent. Another family from Yemen, the Alsagoff family, once dominated the spice trade in Singapore. They founded the oldest existing Islamic school (madrasa) in Singapore and built a shrine (gongbei) for a Yemeni Sufi sage in Singapore. See "Arab Merchants in Singapore."

Geylang Serai is located in the eastern part of Singapore. In the early 20th century, it became an important Malay community in Singapore. The Geylang Serai Market is the largest Malay market in Singapore, where you can taste various Malay delicacies. The nearby Haig Road Market and Food Centre also have many Malay delicacies. On the second floor of City Plaza near the Geylang River, you can find Singapore's last shop making handmade traditional caps (songkok). The Malay Heritage Centre is located next to the Geylang Serai Market. See "Visiting the Malay Market in Geylang Serai, Singapore."

January: Johor Bahru, Seremban, Klang, Ipoh, and Kuala Kangsar, Malaysia.

We went to Malaysia to eat various halal Chinese meals. In Johor Bahru, we ate at the Hainanese coffee shop Hua Mui and visited the Johor Bahru Chinese Heritage Museum. In Seremban, we ate at the halal Chinese restaurants Muhammad Kew and Mohd Chan. In Klang, we ate at the halal Chinese restaurants Yiqi Chichi and Rahmat Tan. In Ipoh, we ate at the famous halal Chinese restaurant Lau Kee, the halal Chinese stir-fry shop Gerai Ipoh Ipoh Aje, and stayed at the heritage shophouse hotel Sarang Paloh. In Kuala Kangsar, we ate at the old-school Hainanese coffee shop Yut Loy. See "Tasting Halal Chinese Food in Malaysia."

After the 14th century, the Minangkabau people living on Sumatra Island crossed the Strait of Malacca to settle in Negeri Sembilan on the Malay Peninsula. Today, you can experience Minangkabau culture at the Negeri Sembilan State Museum. On the hill to the east of Seremban Lake Garden is the Tuanku Ja'afar Royal Gallery. In the city center, there is the century-old Jamek Mosque and the famous long-standing shop Haji Shariff's Cendol. See "Negeri Sembilan: The Settlement of the Minangkabau People in Malaysia."

Kuala Kangsar is located in Perak, Malaysia. It has been the royal city of the Sultan of Perak since the 18th century, where you can feel the authentic Malay village (kampung) atmosphere. On Friday, we visited the night market at the Kuala Kangsar Market and tasted various Malay snacks. The core area of the Perak Sultan's royal city is on Bukit Chandan hill. It features the Istana Hulu built in 1898 (currently closed), the Ubudiah Mosque built in 1913, the Perak Royal Mausoleum built in 1915, the Perak Prince's wooden house built in 1912, the bamboo-walled Istana Kenangan built in 1926, and the Istana Iskandariah built in 1933 (not open to the public). See "The Royal City of the Perak Sultan and the Lively Malay Night Market."

Ipoh is located in Perak, Malaysia, and is known as the "City of Tin." In the late 19th century, many South Indian Tamils came to Ipoh to make a living, and the Ipoh Indian Mosque was built in 1908. Some North Indian Pathans (Pashtun descent) and Punjabis also came to Ipoh to work as police officers, and they built the Pakistan Mosque in Ipoh's Little India in 1930. In Ipoh's old town, we ate at a Tamil mamak stall that has been serving rice with curry (nasi kandar) for over 50 years, and we also had durian shaved ice (cendol) in the old town. The center for Malay people in Ipoh is the Panglima Kinta Mosque, built in 1898 by the Kinta River. See "Indian and Malay Mosques in Ipoh, Malaysia."

The Muhammadiah Mosque in Tasek, in the northern suburbs of Ipoh, was rebuilt under the leadership of the Ipoh branch of the Malaysian Chinese Muslim Association. It is the first mosque in Malaysia with a purely Chinese architectural style, and you can see Chinese characters everywhere inside. I performed the Friday prayer (namaz) at the mosque and met Dato' Sheikh Abdul Rahman, the chairman of the Ipoh branch of the Chinese Muslim Association. See "Performing Friday Prayer at a Chinese Mosque in Malaysia."

In 1889, Sultan Abu Bakar of Johor officially moved the royal capital to Johor Bahru. The Sultan Abu Bakar Mosque is a mosque in Malaysia with a very distinct Victorian style. The Mahmoodiah Royal Mausoleum is the royal burial ground for the Sultans of Johor, and it also uses Victorian architectural style. The Pasir Pelangi Royal Mosque is located next to the Pasir Pelangi Palace of the Sultan of Johor, and the entire structure is in a neoclassical style. The Johor Art Gallery has many works by Johor artists, and there is a young man on-site to guide you through the experience of traditional tie-dyeing. There are traditional Johor Malay buildings in the courtyard where you can change into traditional clothes for photos. On Jalan Dhoby in the old town of Johor Bahru, there is a traditional Indian bakery that has been open for over 80 years, and there is also an Indian mosque nearby. See "The Royal City of the Temenggong Dynasty of the Johor Sultanate—Johor Bahru."

On Jalan Tan Hiok Nee, a street with century-old arcade buildings in the old town of Johor Bahru, you will find Nyonya Dynasty, the first Nyonya restaurant in Johor state to receive halal certification. There are three halal Nyonya restaurants in the NU Sentral mall opposite KL Sentral in Kuala Lumpur, and this time we ate at the largest of the three, Peranakan Place. See "Eating Nyonya Cuisine in Johor Bahru and Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia."

Selangor is located on the west coast of the Malay Peninsula. After the 17th century, the Bugis people from Sulawesi Island entered Selangor as mercenaries and established the Sultanate of Selangor in the 18th century. In 1874, the Selangor royal city was destroyed in a civil war, and Sultan Abdul Samad moved the royal city to the foot of Jugra Hill inside the mouth of the Selangor River. Today, two historical buildings, the Alaeddin Palace and the Alaeddin Mosque, are still preserved here. The Sultan also built the Alam Shah Palace in Klang. The Sultan Sulaiman Royal Mosque, which is right next to the palace, uses Art Deco style. The Sultan Abdul Aziz Royal Gallery is located in the center of the old town of Klang. The arcade area of Klang's old town has a lively Little India neighborhood, and the Indian mosque is a landmark building. See "The Royal City of the Sultan of Selangor—Jugra, Klang."

February, Urumqi.

Hotan Street is a famous food street in Urumqi. We ate the Kashgar Yibazhua (a type of meat bun) that had the longest line on Hotan Second Street, drank pigeon soup, bought traditional Uyghur pastries, and ate roasted goose eggs, handmade yogurt, and Yangle spicy chicken. There are also many Kazakh restaurants on Hotan Street. We ate horse sausage narin (a traditional meat and noodle dish) and milk tea at the Sai Gulu Ke restaurant, and had a Kazakh breakfast at Baoersake. I also bought an old-fashioned poplar wood sapayi (a traditional percussion instrument) at the Duoluozhe Ethnic Musical Instrument Store in Erdaoqiao, and bought usma (a plant-based eyebrow pencil) on the street. We walked around the Tianshan Vanke mall, which has many Uyghur restaurants and even a restaurant specifically for children's supplementary food. See "Hotan Street, Erdaoqiao, and Tianshan Vanke in Urumqi."

Although I was busy with night prayers during this return to Urumqi, I still found time to visit two small Hui Muslim eateries. The first one is Zainab's childhood treasure restaurant—Heping Bridge Dumpling Restaurant. Their place is a rare, old-school Hui Muslim sour soup dumpling shop in Urumqi. The second place is Xinshenghua Meatball Soup (wanzi tang) for Hui Muslims in Changji. The environment is very nice, the kitchen is open for everyone to see, and the food tastes great. See "Sharing Two Hui Muslim Eateries I Visited in Urumqi This Time."

I went to the Dawan Gongbei in Urumqi to attend the funeral (maitai) for an elder from the Luyuan Street community. After the funeral, I visited the two sages at the Dawan Gongbei. The first is the elder from Weijiapu, the first imam (ahong) to start formal religious education in Urumqi. The second is Imam Ma Zongfu, the leader of the Beiliang Mosque and Beifang Mosque in Urumqi, known to everyone as Elder Datong. See "Visiting the Dawan Gongbei in Urumqi."

March, Wuhan

I returned to Wuhan ten years after graduation. At night, I ate at Diaohuzi Hui Muslim Barbecue in Erqi, Jiang'an. In the morning, I prayed (namaz) at the Jiang'an Mosque. At Chengliji, I caught some freshly fried beef meatballs (niurou yuanzi). At the Yixiangzhai food shop nearby, I bought peanut brittle (huasheng su) and ginger candy (jiangzhi zatang). On the side road of Erqi, I ate three-ingredient noodles and beef mixed noodles at the Halal Shuangbao Red Oil Beef series shop. At noon, I ate Ma's hot dry noodles (reganmian) on Liangdao Street in Wuchang and taro cheese bricks at the Halal Red Brick Wall shop. In the evening, I went to the Yizhiwei Restaurant on Bayi Road to eat Halal Hubei cuisine. See "Returning to Wuhan Ten Years After Graduation (Part 1): Jiang'an Mosque, Central China Normal University, and Wuchang Food."

Early in the morning, I went to the Ma Si Baba Gongbei on Huquan Street to pay my respects. In the afternoon, I drank sand-boiled coffee and ate baklava at a Turkish cafe in Tongxingli, Hankou. In the afternoon, I went to the Fatumei Restaurant on Huangxing Road to eat beef spring rolls, stir-fried beef tripe, and shredded dry-fried beef. See "Returning to Wuhan Ten Years After Graduation (Part 2): Ma Si Baba Gongbei, Turkish Coffee, and Fatumei Restaurant."

March, Hexiwu, Wuqing, Tianjin

I went back to my hometown with my family in Hexiwu Town, Wuqing District, Tianjin. Because it was a key hub for water transport, Hexiwu Town had many Hui Muslim merchants during the Ming and Qing dynasties. There was a Hui Muslim camp southwest of the town, and the Hexiwu Mosque was first built in the early years of the Yongle reign of the Ming Dynasty. After leaving the mosque, we bought the local specialty golden-rimmed braised meat (jinbian koumen) at the Xinpengzhai Restaurant. Then we went to the "First Post Station Snack Street" inside the Hexiwu Farmers' Market. The most famous item there is the yellow rice fried cake (huangmi zhagao) from the century-old Wangji Lirenzhai. Also, the crispy fried dough pockets (gezhe he) of Hexiwu are very famous. See "My Hometown—Hexiwu Town, Wuqing, Tianjin."

May, Yiwu and Lishui, Zhejiang

After four years, we visited Yiwu again. After travel restrictions were lifted, Yiwu became busy again. People from countries in the Middle East and Africa all came to Yiwu to buy goods, and many new Middle Eastern restaurants opened, especially in the Binwang business district. This time, we chose a few of the newly opened restaurants to try. See "Many New Middle Eastern Restaurants Have Opened in Yiwu."

On the afternoon of May 2, I took the high-speed train from Yiwu to Lishui to visit Lishui Mosque. Lishui Mosque has two sections, featuring two gate towers, a front hall, connecting corridors, and a main hall, all in a distinct local Lishui style. The gate towers are the most unique part and are listed as a Lishui City cultural heritage site. See "Visiting Lishui Mosque in Zhejiang."

In May, I visited Fuzhou, Quanzhou, and Xiamen in Fujian.

I visited Fuzhou Mosque at Nanmendou and went to pay my respects at the tomb of the Sheikh (shaihai) inside the Hui Muslim cemetery on Meifeng Road. The Fuzhou Museum displays three Song and Yuan dynasty tombstone carvings from Quanzhou. I had lunch at the famous Turkish restaurant Aladdin, then returned to Fuzhou Mosque for Jumu'ah prayer. See "Jumu'ah in Fuzhou: Fuzhou Mosque, Sheikh Tomb, Song and Yuan Stone Carvings, and a Turkish Restaurant."

I went to Qingjing Mosque in Quanzhou for Zuhr prayer. Imam Ma of Qingjing Mosque is from Hualong, Qinghai. During the day, he leads prayers in the main hall donated by Oman, and after the tourist area closes, he leads prayers in the smaller Mingshan Hall. The next morning, I continued exploring Qingjing Mosque. See "The Thousand-Year-Old Qingjing Mosque in Quanzhou."

Lingshan Holy Tomb is in the east of Quanzhou city, also known as the Tomb of the Three and Four Sages. The holy tomb currently has two granite graves divided into three layers, with lotus petal carvings on the bottom layer. In 1958, when the Fuzhou-Xiamen highway outside the East Gate of Quanzhou was widened, several Song and Yuan dynasty Muslim pedestal-style tomb stones by the road were moved next to the Lingshan Holy Tomb. Next to the Lingshan Holy Tomb is the cemetery for local Quanzhou Hui Muslims. The Ge, Ma, and Huang families are descendants of the generations of imams who served at Qingjing Mosque. A large section of the Lingshan Sacred Tomb scenic area is dedicated to the Ding family cemetery from Chendai. See "Lingshan Holy Tomb in Quanzhou."

At noon, I took a taxi south of Quanzhou to Chendai Mosque for Asr prayer and visited the Chendai Hui Muslim History Museum located inside the Ding Family Ancestral Hall. See "Chendai Mosque and the Chendai Hui Muslim History Museum in Quanzhou, Fujian."

In Quanzhou, besides the famous Baiqi Guo family of Hui Muslims, there is also a branch of the Jundong Guo family of Hui Muslims. Today, the Xingzhai Guo Family Ancestral Hall is a large Southern Fujian-style ancestral hall with three rows of buildings, two courtyards, and two side houses. It is a Quanzhou cultural heritage site and serves as the cultural activity center for the Xingzhai Hui Muslim Seniors Association. Inside the Guo Family Ancestral Hall in Xingzhai, there are several stone tablets, one of which is inscribed with 'Site of the Islamic Mosque'. See 'Echoes of the Faith: The Guo Family Mosque of the Hui Muslims in Xingzhai, Quanzhou'.

The Quanzhou Maritime Museum was built in 1959. In 2003, the Quanzhou Islamic Culture Exhibition Hall was completed, and in 2008, the 'Arabs and Persians in Quanzhou' exhibition officially opened, displaying over 200 stone carvings from the Song and Yuan dynasties related to the faith. See 'Song and Yuan Dynasty Islamic Stone Carvings in the Quanzhou Maritime Museum Collection'.

At noon, I visited the Xiamen Mosque and was very grateful to have braised noodles (huimian) made by Imam Liu. Inside the Xiamen Mosque, there are two stone tablets dating back to 1902 (the 28th year of the Guangxu reign) and 1924 (the 13th year of the Republic of China). I had dinner at the main branch of Ma'erlong in the evening. See '[2024 May Day Trip] Xiamen Mosque and Ma'erlong Xinjiang Cuisine'.

The Anthropology Museum of Xiamen University is the first university museum in the People's Republic of China, and it houses a large number of Song and Yuan dynasty Islamic stone carvings from Quanzhou. See 'Song and Yuan Dynasty Islamic Stone Carvings in the Xiamen University Anthropology Museum Collection'.

May: Chengdu, Dujiangyan, and Leshan, Sichuan.

I went to Chengdu for a business trip in May and stayed behind the Huangcheng Mosque. This time, I felt the area in front of the Huangcheng Mosque was much livelier than before, with many new restaurants opened. See 'The Huangcheng Mosque Neighborhood in Chengdu is Great for Exploring'.

Tuqiao is located in the northwest of Chengdu. Since the Qing Dynasty, it has been a necessary stop for merchants traveling to Chengdu from Aba and Songpan via the Songmao Ancient Road. Many Hui Muslims settled here, and during the reigns of Yongzheng and Qianlong, two mosques were built, known as the Tuqiao Lower Mosque and Upper Mosque. On the evening of May 16, I first bought half a smoked duck at Shunji Marinated Meats (Shunji Yanlu) in front of the Tuqiao Upper Mosque. Then, I bought a serving of braised beef offal (shao niuza) with rice at the nearby Dama Ge Beef Restaurant. After coming down from Hufutan, I had some spicy wontons (hongyou chaoshou) at the Old Street Restaurant in front of the Tuqiao Upper Mosque. Tuqiao is very lively in the morning, and a line formed in front of Shunji Marinated Meats. The Sichuan-style marinated meats here are really worth buying. After finishing breakfast, I visited the Tuqiao Hui Muslim Cemetery, which has a history of over 200 years. See 'Tasting Sichuan Delicacies in Tuqiao, Chengdu'.

On May 15, we set off from Chengdu to Dujiangyan and visited the Dujiangyan Mosque at noon. There are many halal restaurants around the Dujiangyan Mosque, where you can eat authentic traditional Hui Muslim dishes from western Sichuan. Huixiangyuan, located right next to the Dujiangyan Mosque, is a long-established restaurant that displays a traditional soup pot (tangping) sign. I had some chilled tofu pudding (bing douhua) at a small snack shop in Dujiangyan; it was soft and very refreshing. See "Ancient Mosques and Food in Dujiangyan, Sichuan."

We left Chengdu early on May 16 and arrived in Leshan after a two-hour drive, heading to the local restaurant Haishi Qiaojiao Beef for lunch. The restaurant is right across from the Leshan Giant Buddha, next to the old Leshan Port on the Min River. Haishi Qiaojiao Beef was founded by Imam Hai Weixiong. Imam Hai is from Qingliu Town in the Rongchang District of Chongqing. His ancestors moved to Sichuan from Hubei and Hunan during the Kangxi reign. In October 1989, he became the first imam of the Leshan Mosque after the policy was restored, serving until 1998 when he retired to go into business. Besides Haishi Qiaojiao Beef in Leshan, there is also Sulaimani Qiaojiao Beef on the Maluqiao Food Street at the foot of Mount Emei. The owners are Hui Muslims from Rong County, Zigong City. See "Eating Qiaojiao Beef in Leshan and Mount Emei, Sichuan."

June, Liaocheng and Linqing, Shandong

Seven years later, I visited the Dongguan Hui Muslim community in Liaocheng again. There are two mosques in Liaocheng Dongguan: the west one is commonly known as the Great Mosque (Da Libaisi), and the east one is called the Small Mosque (Xiao Libaisi). The "Great and Small Mosque Street District" in Liaocheng Dongguan is among the first batch of historical and cultural districts in Shandong Province and serves as an important historical witness to the Hui Muslim communities along the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal during the Ming and Qing dynasties. See "Revisiting the Great and Small Mosque Streets in Liaocheng Dongguan."

We took a train from Liaocheng to Linqing and went to Baoliang First Shop to eat a meat-filled pancake roll (bing juan rou). In the afternoon, we prayed the Dhuhr (lidigele) prayer at the North Mosque in Linqing, then went to the East Mosque across the street to pray the Asr (shamu) and Maghrib (hufutan) prayers. After the Asr prayer, we ate big bowls of food at Erliang Diguo Millet Porridge at the intersection of Xianfeng Road and Dazhong Road. After the Maghrib prayer, I rode my bike to the Linqing Women's Mosque to find Zainab. In the morning, we had breakfast at Kong Family Steamed Bowl (kouwan) at the Xianfeng Road intersection. After eating, we went to Xianfeng Road to have tofu brain (doufunao) and old tofu (lao doufu). At noon, we ate Wang Family Ten-Fragrance Noodles (shixiang mian) on Xinhua Road, then went to Hongguanying Mosque in Linxi County, Xingtai, Hebei, to pray the Dhuhr (pieshen) prayer. On the way back, we bought deep-stir-fried meat tenderloin (ganzha liji), meat-filled baked buns (rou huoshao), and smoked pigeon (xunge). See "The Ancient Canal City of Linqing, Shandong."

June: Shenyang, Xinmin, Dalian, Fuzhou, Fengcheng, Dandong, and Xinlitun in Liaoning.

I went to Liaoning for the Dragon Boat Festival holiday. I took a high-speed train from Beijing Chaoyang Station to Shenyang in the evening. The next morning, I went to the Lijiang Morning Market in Shenyang and had lamb soup, shaomai, and pan-fried meat pies (huitou) at Heige Lamb Soup. On the third morning, I visited the Bayi Morning Market in Shenyang again. Shenyang has so many morning markets, and every one of them is full of delicious food. After the market, I took a train from Shenyang Station to Xinmin to visit the Xinmin Mosque. At the halal restaurants around the Xinmin Mosque, you can see signs for the Jin, Bai, and Yang families. See "[Dragon Boat Festival Liaoning Trip] Visiting Shenyang Morning Markets and the Ancient Xinmin Mosque."

On the morning of June 8, I took a train from Shenyang to the ancient city of Fuzhou and had "Fuzhou old-style dishes" at the Qunfangyuan Restaurant near the Fuzhou city roundabout. After lunch, we went to the Fuzhou Mosque for namaz. The imam of the Fuzhou Mosque is from Mengcun, Cangzhou, Hebei. Hui Muslim homes in Fuzhou city. The old street has blue bricks and dark tiles, with Arabic calligraphy on the walls, keeping the look of the old days. There is a legendary halal food spot in Fuzhou city, which is my friend's family shop, Yin's sticky rice cake (jiangmi lianggao). In the afternoon, I took a high-speed train from Wafangdian West Station to Dalian North Station and had dinner at the long-established Ma's Dumpling Restaurant (Ma Jia Jiaozi Guan) in front of Dalian Railway Station. After dinner, I went to the Dalian Mosque on Beijing Street for namaz. The next morning, I left from Dalian Station for Qingdui, then took a taxi to the ancient town of Qingdui to visit the Qingdui Mosque. See "[Dragon Boat Festival Liaoning Trip] Dalian City, Fuzhou Ancient City, and Qingdui Ancient Town."

At noon on June 9, I took a train from Dalian to Fengcheng. At Wenbin Snack Bar, I had the Dandong-style stir-fried corn noodles (chao chazi), and also ordered corn grit eight-treasure porridge (dazhazi babaozhou) and a 6-yuan vegetable platter. After eating, I went to the Fengcheng Mosque for namaz. The imam of the Fengcheng Mosque is also from Cangzhou. In the afternoon, I took a train from Fengcheng to Dandong and visited the Dandong Mosque. The entrance to the mosque was very busy. In the afternoon, I had dinner at the long-established Jinlongge Restaurant in Dandong. They have a wide variety of traditional stir-fried dishes and seafood. See "[Dragon Boat Festival Liaoning Trip] Fengcheng Ancient Mosque and Dandong Food."

On the morning of June 10, I took a high-speed train from Liaoning's Xinmin North Station, arrived at Heishan North Station in 15 minutes, and then took a taxi to Xinlitun Town. I performed the afternoon prayer (peshin) at Xinlitun Mosque, where the imam, Ma, is from Cangzhou. There are many halal restaurants in Xinlitun, but many were closed for the Dragon Boat Festival. We bought beef jerky and smoked dried tofu (xungan doufu) at Wang Zijing Deli, and both were delicious! In the afternoon, we took a train from Xinlitun Railway Station to Fuxin South Station. We performed the late afternoon prayer (asr) and sunset prayer (maghrib) at Fuxin Mosque, then had dinner at Daijia Restaurant Huiweizhai near the mosque.