Spring Festival Road Trip to Ancient Mosques in Sichuan (Part 11): Dayuan Hui Township and Wulong Mountain Gongbei in Qingchuan County, Guangyuan
<p>We set out from downtown Guangyuan in the morning and, after nearly two hours of driving, arrived at Dayuan Hui Township, nestled deep within the Qinba Mountains. Following the Huaguo River up the valley, our first stop was Huaguo Village to visit the local Huaguo Mosque. Unfortunately, the mosque was closed, so we could only take a look around the courtyard.</p>
<p><b>Huaguo Mosque is a century-old historical site.</b> Originally established in 1925 at Majiakou in Huaguo Village, it was relocated to its current site in Chenjiayuan in 1940. The present building was reconstructed after the devastating 2008 earthquake. Even today, you can still see the stone pillar bases of the old mosque preserved in the courtyard.</p>
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<p>Continuing upstream along the Huaguo River, we arrived at Suojia Village, another Hui Muslim settlement. <b>This is the oldest Hui village in all of Qingchuan, boasting a history of over 400 years.</b> According to a tombstone in the village, in 1580 (the 8th year of the Wanli reign of the Ming Dynasty), Ma Jiyuan, along with families surnamed Suo and Zhao, migrated from Jingyang County in Shanxi to settle by the Huagai River. The "Qingchuan County Gazetteer" records a slightly different date, stating that in 1586, three Hui families—Ma, Suo, and Hei—from the Ta'er Mosque in Jingyang County, Shanxi, moved to the Huagai River area in Dayuan Township, marking the beginning of the Hui presence in the county.</p>
<p>At the Suojia Mosque, I received a remarkably warm welcome from the Imam and the elders. I offered a donation (Niyyah) to the mosque, but they kindly returned it to me, insisting on giving charity (Sadaqah) to a traveler, and even presented me with oranges and apples. The Suojia Mosque was originally built at the end of the Ming Dynasty. It was occupied in 1952 and dismantled in 1967. Thanks to the initiative of community members Suo Fushou and Ma Minghuai, and the dedicated efforts of Suo Jinming, Suo Wenjin, Ma Qinggao, Suo Jinzhu, Suo Fuguo, Ma Wancai, and others, the current Suojia Mosque was finally completed over a four-year period from 2007 to 2011.</p>
<p>In Suojia Village, it was evident that many people wore traditional white skullcaps (Kufis). Everyone was incredibly friendly, greeting me with warm smiles. <b>Located deep within Wulong Mountain, the village presents a scene of absolute serenity, resembling a hidden utopia.</b> Ducks and geese roam freely in the streams, while community members plow the terraced fields with oxen.</p>
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<p><b>Suojia Village undoubtedly possesses the most breathtaking natural scenery of any Hui village I have visited in Sichuan.</b> Taking a leisurely hike up Wulong Mountain and gazing out from the railing, one sees endless green mountains unfolding in layers. The tranquil Huaguo River valley lies peacefully between the peaks, with village houses scattered naturally along the mountain slopes, their white walls and dark tiles dotting the wilderness. The intersecting terraced fields display a rich, vibrant green. As the fresh mountain breeze brushes against your face, everywhere you look is a healing, pastoral poem.</p>
<p>The village's primary products are organic green tea, high-altitude mountain delicacies, ecologically raised beef and mutton, and under-forest medicinal herbs. While wandering through the village, I happened upon a simple Hui sister (Ahniang) gently driving her cattle and sheep into the deep mountains to graze, looking entirely at ease. When not grazing, she feeds them pure corn on the cob. Cattle and sheep raised on mountain spring water, wild mushrooms, and corn must taste incredible; I will definitely try them next time I have the chance.</p>
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<p><b>Perched atop a cliff at the very end of the Huaguo River valley sits the Wulong Mountain Gongbei (also known as the Wulong Mountain Qingzhen Pavilion)</b>, an important spiritual center of the Qadiriyya Sufi order's Da Gongbei lineage. It is a cliffside sanctuary with a dramatic landscape that rivals the famous Jiujing Gongbei.</p>
<p>The Wulong Mountain Gongbei was the spiritual retreat of "An Taiye" (Grandpa An) of Andingchuan during his lifetime. An Taiye, originally a Han Chinese from Anhui, served as the magistrate of Langzhong County during the Kangxi reign. Inspired by Qi Jingyi, the founder of the Qadiriyya order in China, he resigned from his post, embraced Islam, and traveled to Wulong Mountain to meditate and practice in a cave. After he passed away (returned to Allah) in 1708 (the 47th year of the Kangxi reign), the Wulong Mountain Gongbei was constructed. The Gongbei still houses a plaque bearing the characters "Imperial Grace" (Sheng En) from the 8th year of the Xianfeng reign.</p>
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<p><i>This article is a translated repost from the original source.</i></p>
