<p>In the previous article, we had lunch in Shacheng Town, Huailai County, Hebei, and visited two ancient mosques in Ganji Liang and Mayukou. (See "Qingming Festival Trip to Ancient Mosques in Huailai and Zhuolu, Hebei (Part 1)"). In this second part, we will head to Xinbao'an Town and Zhuolu County to experience the local Islamic culture and heritage.</p>

<p>On the morning of April 5th, we had breakfast in Xinbao'an Town, Huailai. We arrived a bit late, so the traditional tofu pudding (Lao Doufu) and brown sugar baked flatbreads (Shao Bing) were already sold out. Instead, we enjoyed a basket of steamed buns accompanied by fried tofu soup. Little Sulaiman particularly loved the purple rice porridge.</p>

<p><b>Xinbao'an is a crucial historic town along the ancient Beijing-Zhangjiakou route</b>, with a post station established as early as the Yuan Dynasty. After the "Tumu Crisis" during the Ming Dynasty, to fortify the northern defense line of Beijing, a city wall was built here in 1451 (the 2nd year of the Jingtai reign). The Bao'an Guard, originally located in Zhuolu, was relocated here, and the town became known as the New City of Bao'an. From the Qing Dynasty onwards, Xinbao'an gradually transformed from a military stronghold into a bustling commercial hub, serving as a vital trade link between Beijing and Zhangjiakou.</p>

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<p>At the bustling local market in Xinbao'an, we bought some old-fashioned five-nut mooncakes and honey cakes from a roadside bakery. <b>They were baked fresh that very day and made for perfect snacks to accompany our tea.</b></p>

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<p>After breakfast, we proceeded to the Hui Muslim residential area in the northwest of the ancient town to visit the famous "Nine Interlocking Courtyards" (Jiu Lian Huan Da Yuan). Originally a grand mansion belonging to a wealthy merchant in the Qing Dynasty, it was later inhabited by Hui Muslims after the merchant's decline, earning it the name "Hui Muslim Courtyard." <b>The main gate is exquisitely crafted, showcasing classic Qing Dynasty residential architecture of the Zhangjiakou region</b>, adorned with intricate brick, wood, and stone carvings. During the Battle of Xinbao'an in 1948, the courtyard was caught in the crossfire, and the bullet holes are still clearly visible today.</p>

<p>The Hui Muslims in Xinbao'an predominantly bear the surnames Liang and Zheng. Historical records trace the ancestors of the Liang family back to Nanjing. During the Chongzhen reign at the end of the Ming Dynasty, they migrated to Liangjiapo in Weinan, Shaanxi. In 1677 (the 16th year of the Kangxi reign), they moved from Weinan to Xinbao'an to cultivate land, guard the borders, and protect the capital. During the Qianlong reign, the Liang family began trading in Zhangjiakou. By the Tongzhi era, their camel caravans traveled as far as Kulun (now Ulaanbaatar in Outer Mongolia) and Lanzhou. They eventually established five major trading firms, collectively known as the "Five Great Guangs."</p>

<p>The Zheng family shares common ancestry with Hui Muslims in neighboring Huailai and Zhuolu counties. Their ancestors migrated from Shaanxi during the transition from the Ming to the Qing Dynasty, first settling in Shacheng Town, Huailai, and later spreading to Wangjialou, Yanzhuang, Xinbao'an, Xuanhua, and Zhangjiakou. <b>Zheng Kuishi was a renowned Hui military commander in the late Qing Dynasty.</b> During the Xianfeng reign, he fought against the Taiping Rebellion, achieving numerous military successes. He was awarded the honorable title "Shalama Baturu" and granted the privilege of wearing the Imperial Yellow Riding Jacket. In the Tongzhi era, he served as the Acting Provincial Military Commander of Zhili, guarding the capital region and pacifying the Nian Rebellion within Zhili, ensuring the safety of Beijing. In his later years, he returned to his hometown and spearheaded water conservancy projects, building the Yonggu Dam to tame the Liuchuan River, repairing the Zhenshuo Tower and the Four-Archway in Xuanhua, and opening the Huoshipo road to facilitate transportation, earning him immense prestige locally.</p>

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<p>The Xinbao'an Mosque is situated right next to the Nine Interlocking Courtyards. Some sources state it was established in 1621 (the 1st year of the Tianqi reign), while others suggest 1677 (the 16th year of the Kangxi reign). The main prayer hall consists of a front hall, a middle hall, and a rear kiln-style hall (Yao Dian). <b>Its scale is larger than other ancient mosques in Huailai, and it preserves magnificent brick carvings.</b> Regrettably, the Moon-Watching Pavilion (Wang Yue Lou) that once sat atop the Yao Dian no longer exists.</p>

<p>In 1907 (the 33rd year of the Guangxu reign), the esteemed 27-year-old Grand Imam Wang Jingzhai taught here for a year. During this time, he subscribed to the "Bamboo Garden Colloquial Newspaper" and the "Orthodox Patriotic Newspaper," exposing himself to new cultural ideas—a critical period for his intellectual development. However, due to a jurisprudential dispute regarding the playing of music at a local Liang family wedding, he resigned and moved to the Baitasi Mosque in Daxing, Beijing.</p>

<p>During the Pingjin Campaign in 1948, Xinbao'an was a key battlefield, and the Xinbao'an Mosque served as the command post for the Nationalist Army's 35th Corps. <b>The walls of the main hall are still riddled with bullet holes to this day.</b> In 2008, the mosque was listed as a Hebei Provincial Heritage Site under the designation "Site of the Battle of Xinbao'an - Nationalist 35th Corps Command Post."</p>

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<p>The only surviving stone stele in the Xinbao'an Mosque appears to be a donation record, listing the names of many commercial firms.</p>
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<p>From Xinbao'an, we drove to Zhuolu County to visit another ancient mosque in the Zhangjiakou area—the Zhuolu Mosque.</p>

<p><b>Located in the East Gate (Dongguan) area of the county town, the Zhuolu Mosque was established during the Chenghua reign of the Ming Dynasty.</b> It is a famous historic mosque in northern Beijing and was designated a Key Provincial Heritage Site in Hebei in 2008. The main prayer hall is constructed with three interconnected sections with flush gable roofs, featuring a front porch (Bao Xia). Atop the rear Yao Dian sits an 11-meter-high octagonal Moon-Watching Pavilion with a pyramidal roof, which is far more spectacular than the hexagonal pavilions commonly seen in North China. Wind chimes hang from the pavilion, producing a refreshing, melodious sound when the wind blows. Between the Yao Dian and the side alcoves (Yao Wo) are wooden partition screens featuring beautifully crafted, unique hard-pen style Arabic calligraphy (Tasmiyah).</p>

<p>The Hui community in Zhuolu predominantly has the surname Shan. <b>They are descendants of Sayyid Ajjal Shams al-Din Omar.</b> One branch, originally from Shanjiagou in Xi'an Prefecture, Shaanxi, migrated to Zhuolu during the Kangxi reign. In the Qianlong reign, they built the Shan Family Nine Interlocking Courtyards in the West Gate (Xiguan) area. The Shan family was renowned for their military service; at one point, five family members passed the imperial military examinations, earning them the moniker "The Five Dragons of the Shan Family." The Dongguan area, where the mosque is located, was also a major Hui settlement, once featuring streets named after local families: Ma Family Alley, Fei Family Alley, and Shan Family Alley. Unfortunately, due to urban redevelopment in 2018, only the mosque itself has been preserved.</p>

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<p><b>The Zhuolu Mosque is celebrated for its exquisite brick carvings.</b> The carvings on the side walls of the three main hall sections are all distinctly different. Inside the main hall, there are eighteen precious murals depicting themes like plum blossoms, orchids, bamboo, chrysanthemums, landscapes, and traditional vessels—a decorative style exceedingly rare inside the prayer halls of Islamic mosques.</p>

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<p>Plaques inside the Zhuolu Mosque:</p>

<p>The "Myriad Phenomena, One True Lord" (Wan Xiang Zhen Zong) plaque from 1809 (the 14th year of the Jiaqing reign).</p>
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<p>The "Guiding Heaven and Humanity" (Dao Tong Tian Ren) plaque from 1859 (the 9th year of the Xianfeng reign).</p>
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<p>The "Truth Without Falsehood" (Zhen Shi Wu Wang) plaque from 1870 (the 9th year of the Tongzhi reign).</p>
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<p>The "Bathed in Heavenly Grace" (Tian Xiu Wo He) plaque from 1919. This is the only one with a dedicated signature, reading "Respectfully presented by Shan Xiangchen."</p>
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<p>At noon, we returned to Shacheng Town in Huailai for lunch. At the Qing Yi Zhai restaurant, we enjoyed naked oat noodles (You Mian Wo Wo) smothered in lamb and mushrooms, stir-fried millet with chive flowers, and a winter melon and meatball claypot. The prices at restaurants here are much lower than in Beijing, and the food is exceptionally delicious.</p>

<p><b>The lamb and mushroom dish had quite a lot of potatoes, but the stir-fry flavor was fantastic.</b> They used several types of mushrooms, making it rich and savory. The naked oat noodles were firm and chewy, carrying the unique, natural wheaty aroma of coarse grains. It was my first time eating stir-fried millet with chive flowers; it was slightly salty, the golden millet grains were distinct and dry, and mixed with the unique pungent aroma of the chive flowers, the texture was hearty yet refreshing. The winter melon and meatball soup was the most surprising—the clear broth meatballs were incredibly tasty, firm, and bouncy, even better than the ones I make at home. One bite and you know they didn't use much starch; it was almost pure meat.</p>

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<p><i>This article is a translated repost from the original source.</i></p> view all

<p>Returning from Jiujing up the Jialing River gorge, accompanied all the way by river breezes and mountain shadows, we arrived in downtown Guangyuan just in time to break our fast at the Shanghe Street Mosque. When I visited, the interior of the mosque was undergoing renovations, so prayers and the Iftar (fast-breaking meal) were temporarily set up on the second floor. Although the arrangement was simple, the atmosphere was exceptionally calm and solemn.</p>

<p><b>Guangyuan is strategically located at the junction of Sichuan, Shaanxi, and Gansu provinces, controlling vital land and water transportation routes.</b> Consequently, the congregation is diverse, bringing together brothers (Duositi) who have traveled from afar in the Northwest, foreign students studying locally, and native elders whose families have lived here for generations. Hearts from all directions blend here in a spirit of peace and profound inclusivity.</p>

<p>The Iftar meal was simple and home-style: tender and flavorful beef stewed with carrots, refreshing and palate-cleansing stir-fried celery lettuce with wood ear mushrooms, mild and stomach-soothing white radish stewed with kelp, accompanied by cold glass noodles and pickled radish. It was modest, grounding, peaceful, and healing.</p>

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<p><b>The Shanghe Street Mosque stands quietly beside the Jialing River, while right outside its doors lies the vibrant and bustling Jialing River Pedestrian Street.</b> The river breeze blows gently, and tourist boats shuttle back and forth constantly at the pier, creating a lively scene of worldly prosperity. Yet, stepping inside the mosque to focus on the Taraweeh prayers evoked a deep sense of emotion. Separated by only a single window, outside is the hustle and bustle of the secular world; inside is a pure and peaceful place of spiritual practice, a quiet harbor to rest one's heart. The noise of the world and the tranquility of the ancient mosque coexist perfectly, allowing one to find a spiritual sanctuary amidst the lively riverbank with just a single thought of stillness.</p>

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<p>As early as the Yuan and Ming dynasties, Guangyuan had a mosque located on East Street in the old city, but it was destroyed at the end of the Ming Dynasty. From the Qing Dynasty onwards, Guangyuan's commercial center gradually shifted from East Street to the banks of the Jialing River. Therefore, local Hui Muslims established the Shanghe Street Mosque in 1721 (the 60th year of the Kangxi reign) — though some sources say 1674 — and it was expanded in 1777 (the 42nd year of the Qianlong reign).</p>

<p><b>The mosque preserves nine precious wooden plaques from the Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China era.</b> During the 1960s and 70s, these nine plaques were carefully covered with layers of paper, painted red, and inscribed with "highest directives" regarding ethnic unity, which ultimately saved them from destruction. Today, these nine plaques proudly hang on the walls of the mosque's staircases and corridors.</p>

<p>The "Mosque" (Qing Zhen Si) plaque from 1748 (the 13th year of the Qianlong reign), with a signature indicating the congregation rebuilt it in the 10th year of the Republic of China (1921).</p>
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<p>The "Recognize Only One Lord" (Ren Zhu Wu Er) plaque from 1803 (the 8th year of the Jiaqing reign), respectfully presented by Min Huaixi, an imperial Baturu (a Manchu honorary title for bravery).</p>
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<p>The "Pure Energy, True Principle" (Qi Qing Li Zhen) plaque from 1811 (the 16th year of the Jiaqing reign), erected by Geng Ziyu, the Guerrilla Commander of the Guangyuan Battalion.</p>
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<p>A small-text stele plaque from 1849 (the 29th year of the Daoguang reign), authored by Min Zhengfeng, the Provincial Military Commander of Guangxi. It records the historical facts regarding religious policy disputes concerning Hui Muslims during the Yongzheng reign and the imperial court's subsequent protection of Islam.</p>
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<p>The "Penetrating Even the Smallest Dust" (Guan Che Wei Chen) plaque from 1873 (the 12th year of the Tongzhi reign), erected by Jiang Guolin, Acting Regional Commander and Guerrilla Commander of the Guangyuan Battalion, who was imperially bestowed with a peacock feather.</p>
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<p>The "Only Pure, Only One" (Wei Jing Wei Yi) plaque from 1873 (the 12th year of the Tongzhi reign), erected by Ma Dengchao, Acting Brigade Commander and Central Guard of the Guangyuan Battalion, who was imperially bestowed with a peacock feather.</p>
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<p>The "Supporting the Holy Religion" (Zhi Wei Sheng Jiao) plaque from the Guangxu reign, presented by Mu Xiangfu, Guerrilla Commander of Guangyuan.</p>
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<p>The "Expounding the Heavenly Direction (Islam)" (Dao Chan Tian Fang) plaque from 1925, inscribed by Liu Cunhou, Border Defense Commissioner of Sichuan and Shaanxi and Military Inspector of Sichuan.</p>
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<p>The "Reforming Religious Affairs" (Jiao Wu Wei Xin) plaque from 1932, erected by the Guangyuan Islamic Funeral Mutual Aid Association.</p>
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<p>After finishing the Taraweeh prayers, I went behind the mosque to enjoy a bowl of beef flatbread soup (Niu Rou Hui Mo). Due to the proximity to Shaanxi and Gansu, the people of Guangyuan love Hui Mo, which is quite different from what you find in other parts of Sichuan. <b>Guangyuan's Hui Mo is distinct from Shaanxi's Pao Mo; the bread is cut into larger chunks, soft but not mushy.</b> The broth is a rich beef bone soup, loaded with plenty of glass noodles. While it's popular to eat Hui Mo for breakfast in Guangyuan, restaurants actually serve it all day long. Both Zhou Ji and Old Mu's family (Lao Mu Jia) on Shanghe Street serve Hui Mo, with Old Mu's staying open later into the night.</p>

<p>The Hui Muslims surnamed Mu in Guangyuan migrated along the Jialing River from Shaanxi and Gansu during the mid-Qing Dynasty. Most of them live in Mujiapo, Datan Town, and they have opened restaurants in downtown Guangyuan and Jiange County, where you can taste the unique Hui culinary delights of Guangyuan.</p>

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<p><i>This article is a translated repost from the original source.</i></p> view all

<p>We set out from downtown Guangyuan in the morning and, after nearly two hours of driving, arrived at Dayuan Hui Township, nestled deep within the Qinba Mountains. Following the Huaguo River up the valley, our first stop was Huaguo Village to visit the local Huaguo Mosque. Unfortunately, the mosque was closed, so we could only take a look around the courtyard.</p>

<p><b>Huaguo Mosque is a century-old historical site.</b> Originally established in 1925 at Majiakou in Huaguo Village, it was relocated to its current site in Chenjiayuan in 1940. The present building was reconstructed after the devastating 2008 earthquake. Even today, you can still see the stone pillar bases of the old mosque preserved in the courtyard.</p>

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<p>Continuing upstream along the Huaguo River, we arrived at Suojia Village, another Hui Muslim settlement. <b>This is the oldest Hui village in all of Qingchuan, boasting a history of over 400 years.</b> According to a tombstone in the village, in 1580 (the 8th year of the Wanli reign of the Ming Dynasty), Ma Jiyuan, along with families surnamed Suo and Zhao, migrated from Jingyang County in Shanxi to settle by the Huagai River. The "Qingchuan County Gazetteer" records a slightly different date, stating that in 1586, three Hui families—Ma, Suo, and Hei—from the Ta'er Mosque in Jingyang County, Shanxi, moved to the Huagai River area in Dayuan Township, marking the beginning of the Hui presence in the county.</p>

<p>At the Suojia Mosque, I received a remarkably warm welcome from the Imam and the elders. I offered a donation (Niyyah) to the mosque, but they kindly returned it to me, insisting on giving charity (Sadaqah) to a traveler, and even presented me with oranges and apples. The Suojia Mosque was originally built at the end of the Ming Dynasty. It was occupied in 1952 and dismantled in 1967. Thanks to the initiative of community members Suo Fushou and Ma Minghuai, and the dedicated efforts of Suo Jinming, Suo Wenjin, Ma Qinggao, Suo Jinzhu, Suo Fuguo, Ma Wancai, and others, the current Suojia Mosque was finally completed over a four-year period from 2007 to 2011.</p>

<p>In Suojia Village, it was evident that many people wore traditional white skullcaps (Kufis). Everyone was incredibly friendly, greeting me with warm smiles. <b>Located deep within Wulong Mountain, the village presents a scene of absolute serenity, resembling a hidden utopia.</b> Ducks and geese roam freely in the streams, while community members plow the terraced fields with oxen.</p>

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<p><b>Suojia Village undoubtedly possesses the most breathtaking natural scenery of any Hui village I have visited in Sichuan.</b> Taking a leisurely hike up Wulong Mountain and gazing out from the railing, one sees endless green mountains unfolding in layers. The tranquil Huaguo River valley lies peacefully between the peaks, with village houses scattered naturally along the mountain slopes, their white walls and dark tiles dotting the wilderness. The intersecting terraced fields display a rich, vibrant green. As the fresh mountain breeze brushes against your face, everywhere you look is a healing, pastoral poem.</p>

<p>The village's primary products are organic green tea, high-altitude mountain delicacies, ecologically raised beef and mutton, and under-forest medicinal herbs. While wandering through the village, I happened upon a simple Hui sister (Ahniang) gently driving her cattle and sheep into the deep mountains to graze, looking entirely at ease. When not grazing, she feeds them pure corn on the cob. Cattle and sheep raised on mountain spring water, wild mushrooms, and corn must taste incredible; I will definitely try them next time I have the chance.</p>

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<p><b>Perched atop a cliff at the very end of the Huaguo River valley sits the Wulong Mountain Gongbei (also known as the Wulong Mountain Qingzhen Pavilion)</b>, an important spiritual center of the Qadiriyya Sufi order's Da Gongbei lineage. It is a cliffside sanctuary with a dramatic landscape that rivals the famous Jiujing Gongbei.</p>

<p>The Wulong Mountain Gongbei was the spiritual retreat of "An Taiye" (Grandpa An) of Andingchuan during his lifetime. An Taiye, originally a Han Chinese from Anhui, served as the magistrate of Langzhong County during the Kangxi reign. Inspired by Qi Jingyi, the founder of the Qadiriyya order in China, he resigned from his post, embraced Islam, and traveled to Wulong Mountain to meditate and practice in a cave. After he passed away (returned to Allah) in 1708 (the 47th year of the Kangxi reign), the Wulong Mountain Gongbei was constructed. The Gongbei still houses a plaque bearing the characters "Imperial Grace" (Sheng En) from the 8th year of the Xianfeng reign.</p>

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<p><i>This article is a translated repost from the original source.</i></p> view all

<p><i>Note: The original text for Article 4 is extremely long and detailed, focusing on the history and specific locations of Shia communities in South and Southeast Asia. The translation maintains the scholarly yet accessible tone requested.</i></p>

<p><b>India: The Imambaras of Lucknow</b></p>
<p>During my journey through South Asia, I had the profound opportunity to visit Lucknow, the capital of Uttar Pradesh in India. Historically, Lucknow was the seat of the Nawabs of Awadh, a Shia Muslim dynasty of Persian origin that ruled the region during the 18th and 19th centuries. <b>The city is renowned for its magnificent Imambaras—congregation halls used by Shia Muslims for ceremonies, especially during the month of Muharram.</b></p>

<p>The Bara Imambara, built by Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula in 1784, is an architectural marvel. Its central hall is said to be the largest vaulted chamber in the world built without the support of wooden beams. The atmosphere inside is deeply spiritual and grand, reflecting the rich cultural and religious heritage of the Awadh rulers. The intricate stucco work and the labyrinthine Bhool Bhulaiya above the main hall are testaments to the incredible craftsmanship of the era.</p>

<p>Equally impressive is the Chhota Imambara, also known as the Hussainabad Imambara, built by Nawab Muhammad Ali Shah in 1838. It is famously called the "Palace of Lights" because of its elaborate decorations and the stunning chandeliers imported from Belgium. The dedication of the local Shia community to preserving these sacred spaces and observing the solemn rituals of Muharram here is truly inspiring.</p>

<p><b>Thailand: The Legacy of Sheikh Ahmad Qomi</b></p>
<p>Moving to Southeast Asia, I explored the historical presence of Shia Muslims in Thailand. In the ancient capital of Ayutthaya, I learned about Sheikh Ahmad Qomi, a Persian merchant who arrived in the Kingdom of Siam in the early 17th century. <b>His story is a fascinating chapter of Islamic history in the region.</b></p>

<p>Sheikh Ahmad quickly rose to prominence, becoming a trusted advisor to the Thai King Songtham. He was appointed to high administrative positions and played a crucial role in managing Siam's foreign trade. His descendants integrated into Thai society, some even converting to Buddhism while maintaining their noble status. However, a segment of his lineage remained steadfast in their Islamic faith, establishing a lasting Shia presence in Thailand. Visiting the historic sites associated with his legacy in Ayutthaya provided a profound sense of the deep historical ties between the Persian world and Southeast Asia.</p>

<p><b>Myanmar: The Mughal Connections in Yangon</b></p>
<p>In Yangon (formerly Rangoon), Myanmar, the Shia community's history is closely intertwined with the exile of Bahadur Shah Zafar, the last Mughal Emperor of India. Following the Indian Rebellion of 1857, the British exiled the Emperor to Yangon, where he spent his final years.</p>

<p>I visited the Dargah (shrine) of Bahadur Shah Zafar, which serves as a poignant historical site and a place of reverence. The local Shia community in Yangon, largely of Indian and Persian descent who arrived during the British colonial period, continues to maintain several mosques and Imambaras in the city. <b>Walking through the vibrant, bustling streets of downtown Yangon and stepping into the serene atmosphere of these historic Shia centers was a deeply moving experience.</b> It highlighted the resilience and enduring faith of the community despite the complex political history of the region.</p>

<p><b>Singapore: The Historic Ba'alwie Mosque</b></p>
<p>My journey concluded in Singapore, a vibrant, multicultural city-state. Here, I visited the historic Ba'alwie Mosque, founded by the Ba 'Alawi sayyids—descendants of the Prophet Muhammad (peace be upon him) originally from the Hadhramaut region of Yemen. While the Ba 'Alawi are traditionally Sunni of the Shafi'i school, the mosque stands as a symbol of the broader, inclusive Islamic heritage in Southeast Asia, with deep historical connections to various Islamic traditions, including respect for the Ahl al-Bayt (the family of the Prophet).</p>

<p>The mosque is known for its rich collection of Islamic artifacts and its role as a center for spiritual learning and community gathering. <b>The profound sense of peace and the deep-rooted Islamic scholarship preserved here are truly remarkable.</b> It is a testament to how the light of faith, carried by scholars and traders across the Indian Ocean, continues to shine brightly in the modern world.</p>

<p><i>This article is a translated repost from the original source.</i></p> view all

<p>Malaysia</p>
<p>The Chicken Rice Shop, Kuala Lumpur<br>
Oriental Kopi, Kuala Lumpur Airport<br>
Hua Mui Kopitiam, Johor Bahru<br>
Yut Loy Coffee Shop, Kuala Kangsar<br>
Sin Hwa Air-Conditioned Restaurant, Kota Bharu<br>
Fook Yuen Cafe & Bakery, Kota Kinabalu<br>
Yuit Cheong Coffee Shop, Kota Kinabalu<br>
Yee Fung Laksa, Kota Kinabalu<br>
Ling Long Seafood, Kuching</p>

<p>Singapore<br>
MacKenzie Rex Restaurant</p>

<p>Brunei<br>
Ying Chow Coffee Shop<br>
Babu's Kitchen<br>
Mei Kwong Coffee Shop</p>

<p>Upon landing at Kuala Lumpur Airport, we usually take the KLIA Ekspres train to the final station, KL Sentral. Just upstairs is the massive Nu Sentral shopping mall, where we almost always grab a meal whenever we visit Kuala Lumpur. The mall boasts a vast array of restaurants; there are three Halal Nyonya places alone, alongside many other Halal Chinese dining options.</p>

<p>This time, we dined at Malaysia's famous Halal Hainanese chicken rice chain, <b>The Chicken Rice Shop</b>. The founder, Qiu Qingyu (Wong Kah Lin's mother, affectionately known as Shirley Wong in the business), is a former executive director of KFC Malaysia and had 25 years of deep experience in the fast-food industry before starting her own venture. In 2000, 54-year-old Qiu Qingyu and her daughter, Wong Kah Lin, opened the first The Chicken Rice Shop in Taipan, Selangor, officially establishing their brand of Halal Hainanese chicken rice.</p>

<p>Qiu Qingyu's parents hail from Penang, and her mother-in-law was from Hainan, so she grew up with a deep love for Hainanese chicken rice. In the 20th century, Hainanese chicken rice was mostly sold at food stalls, and finding a Halal version was nearly impossible. <b>From the very beginning, the mother-daughter duo had a clear vision: to bring Hainanese chicken rice into clean, comfortable, standalone shops within shopping malls, making it suitable for family gatherings and, crucially, offering it as a Halal meal for all communities to enjoy.</b> Today, The Chicken Rice Shop has expanded to 135 locations, making it the largest Halal Hainanese chicken rice chain in Malaysia. Under their pioneering leadership, Halal Chinese cuisine has flourished in Malaysia, allowing Muslim brothers and sisters (Duositi) from all over the world to savor delicious Chinese food here.</p>

<p>We ordered a set meal for three, which included Nyonya Pie Tee (Top Hats), mango salad, roasted chicken, Hainanese curry chicken, okra, Saito fish balls, and rice. We also added a side of roasted tofu, making it a perfect feast for the family. Pie Tee is a classic tea-time snack often served at Peranakan (Straits Chinese) weddings and during the New Year. It originated in Singapore, where it is also known as "Little Gold Cups," filled with shredded carrots and white radishes. The Saito fish balls are Teochew-style fish balls made from wolf herring (Saito fish), which are incredibly popular in Malaysia.</p>

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<p>After taking the bus from Malacca back to Kuala Lumpur Airport, we found that the most popular restaurant in Terminal 2 is undoubtedly the <b>Oriental Kopi</b> chain. No matter what time you go, there is almost always a line.</p>

<p>Their menu is remarkably extensive, making them one of the more renowned Halal Hainanese coffee shops today. <b>Hainanese people began migrating to Malaysia in the 19th century. Early on, many worked as chefs and waiters in British hotels and restaurants, or as domestic helpers for British military officers.</b> Influenced by their British employers, the Hainanese learned to prepare Western cuisine and blended it with their own culinary elements, creating the unique "Hailam Kopitiam" (Hainanese coffee shop) culture.</p>

<p>We ordered their famous egg tarts with flaky pastry, Polo buns with cold butter (Bolo Bao), Hainanese chicken rice, classic Mee Siam, curry fish balls, coffee, soy milk with grass jelly, and longan sea coconut sweet soup (Tong Sui). The coffee, flaky egg tart, and Polo bun are collectively known as the "Three Treasures of Oriental Kopi," forming a classic Nanyang (Southeast Asian) breakfast combo. <b>Their flaky egg tarts are indeed exceptional—the custard is incredibly tender, and the aroma is intensely rich.</b> The sweet soups were also delightful; as someone from Northern China where such soups are rare, drinking them felt like a true taste of Nanyang culture.</p>

<p>However, the rice in their Hainanese chicken rice was disappointing. The quality of the rice grains seemed subpar, giving it a slightly gritty texture that fell short compared to other establishments.</p>

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<p>In the morning, we took a quick 5-minute train ride from Woodlands, Singapore, across the border to Johor Bahru, Malaysia. From the Johor Bahru station, we walked into the old town to experience an authentic Hainanese coffee shop at <b>Hua Mui Kopitiam</b>.</p>

<p>Hua Mui Kopitiam has a history of 78 years, having opened in 1946, making it the oldest Hainanese coffee shop in Johor Bahru. Like many old-school Hainanese coffee shops in Malaysia, despite having a Chinese Hainanese boss, they employ Malay chefs and staff. <b>This inclusive practice ensures that Chinese, Malays, and Indians can all enjoy the food together in the same establishment.</b></p>

<p>The term "Kopitiam" is a beautiful blend of the Malay word "kopi" (coffee) and the Hokkien word "tiam" (shop). They specialize in charcoal-grilled toast, white coffee, and soft-boiled eggs. In the early days, Hainanese coffee shops were highly favored by the British. Today, they serve as vital social hubs where the elderly gather to discuss news and daily life.</p>

<p>At Hua Mui, we ordered the mutton claypot rice, Hainanese noodles, Cham C (a mix of coffee, tea, and evaporated milk), and a breakfast platter. <b>The environment remains deeply traditional.</b> Set in a classic two-story arcade building with bamboo blinds hanging over the doors and windows, it effortlessly transports you back to a bygone era.</p>

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<p>Taking a train north from Ipoh for about 30 minutes brought us to Kuala Kangsar district. Kuala Kangsar has been the royal town of the Sultan of Perak since the 18th century. The town center still preserves an old street with arcade buildings, home to the vintage Hainanese coffee shop, <b>Yut Loy Coffee Shop</b>. Here too, the Hainanese boss employs Malay staff, creating a space where the three major ethnic groups—Chinese, Malay, and Indian—can dine side by side.</p>

<p>Since Yut Loy only starts serving main meals at 1:00 PM, we spent the morning enjoying coffee and toast, topped with honey and butter. I used to read Nanyang-themed novels where elderly folks would sit in Hainanese coffee shops all morning with a cup of coffee, a slice of toast, and a newspaper. This time, we got to experience that exact leisurely pace of life ourselves.</p>

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<p>The Hainanese form a significant portion of the Chinese community in Kelantan. At the <b>Sin Hwa Air-Conditioned Restaurant</b>, a time-honored Hainanese establishment in Kota Bharu with over 50 years of history, we enjoyed Hainanese chicken chop, Hainanese noodles, and fragrant grilled toast. These are all authentic Nanyang Hainanese dishes. Right next door is the Sun City Coffee Shop, which is rumored to serve the best Hainanese chicken rice in Kota Bharu.</p>

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<p>Although Gaya Street in Kota Kinabalu has a larger population of Hakkas and Hokkiens, the restaurant business is still predominantly run by the Hainanese. <b>I started my morning with breakfast at Fook Yuen Cafe & Bakery, a tremendously popular spot bustling with tourists.</b> The ordering process is semi-self-service, offering everything from Cantonese-style porridge and dim sum to Malay Nasi Lemak, as well as Western-style breads and coffee, catering perfectly to all ethnic groups in Malaysia. I had a portion of Hainanese chicken rice, two servings of Siu Mai (dumplings), and a glass of iced milk tea. Their chicken rice has been slightly adapted—the rice includes small dried fish (ikan bilis), a variation that is likely more appealing to local Malay tastes.</p>

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<p><b>Yuit Cheong Coffee Shop, established in 1896, is the oldest Hainanese restaurant in Kota Kinabalu</b>, its history even predating the founding of the city itself. Originally located at the British North Borneo Chartered Company headquarters on Gaya Island, it moved to its current location on Gaya Street after the settlement was destroyed during the anti-British rebellion led by Mat Salleh in 1898. It is safe to say that Yuit Cheong has witnessed the entire evolution of Kota Kinabalu. The walls are adorned with old photographs; one from the 1960s shows the coffee shop in the exact same spot it occupies today.</p>

<p>The shop is divided into two sections. The Hainanese boss personally brews the coffee and grills the toast. <b>He is incredibly warm, offers superb service, and even speaks excellent Korean, which helps draw in Korean tourists.</b> At the other stall, Muslim sisters are employed to prepare Hainanese beef noodle soup and various Malay dishes. This collaborative setup is a hallmark of traditional Hainanese coffee shops. To attract customers from all backgrounds, they must offer food that suits everyone's tastes—a key reason why many time-honored Hainanese restaurants in Malaysia have thrived for decades, or even over a century.</p>

<p>We ordered fresh milk coffee, three-layer tea (Teh C Peng), Luo Han Guo (monk fruit) herbal tea, oatmeal, toast, and beef noodles. The Luo Han Guo and barley water herbal teas are absolutely perfect for the tropical weather here.</p>

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<p><b>The most popular Halal Chinese restaurant on Gaya Street in Kota Kinabalu is undeniably Yee Fung Laksa.</b> The owner, Zhuang Qiuwang, is from Johor and started selling Laksa on Gaya Street in 1984, marking exactly 40 years in business. Like many Halal Chinese restaurants in Malaysia, they employ Muslim chefs and staff to ensure all ingredients are strictly Halal.</p>

<p>They are famous for their "Three Treasures": Laksa, claypot chicken rice, and beef offal (Ngiu Chap). We ordered lettuce with oyster sauce, a pure beef offal bowl, a pure fish ball bowl, and chicken wonton noodles. The Hainanese beef offal typically includes beef meatballs, tripe, stewed beef, and beef slices. It is featured in many Hainanese restaurants in Kota Kinabalu and is a local specialty. <b>Authentic Hainanese beef offal strictly avoids MSG; the rich flavor is achieved purely through slow-stewing with spices, leaving you feeling satisfied without any lingering thirst.</b></p>

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<p>For brothers and sisters (Duositi) visiting Kuching, <b>I highly recommend the Top Spot Food Court in the city center</b>. It is a Halal Chinese seafood center with distinct Nanyang characteristics. Operating from 5 PM to 10 PM, it looks like an ordinary multi-story parking garage from the outside. However, taking the elevator to the rooftop platform reveals a vibrant, bustling seafood market. The vast majority of the Chinese stalls here display Halal certification. A dazzling array of fresh fish, shrimp, and vegetables is laid out openly for you to choose exactly what you want to eat.</p>

<p>We selected a stall named "Ling Long Seafood." The lady taking our order was Hainanese—another classic example of Hainanese people running Halal Chinese restaurants in Malaysia. She spoke excellent Mandarin and enthusiastically helped us order according to our preferences. We chose a Sarawak specialty: Midin (wild fern) stir-fried with shrimp paste, and Mani Cai (sweet leaf) stir-fried with eggs. All their stir-fries come in small, medium, or large portions, making it easy to enjoy a great meal even if dining alone.</p>

<p>Midin is a type of fern native to Borneo; when stir-fried, it is not bitter at all but wonderfully fragrant and crisp. Mani Cai, also known as Sayur Manis, is a wild vegetable highly favored by the Hakka people in Sarawak, commonly found in homes and small eateries. Preparing it is quite labor-intensive: the leaves must be crushed and washed in water to remove any slight toxins, and all small twigs must be carefully picked out before cooking.</p>

<p>For seafood, we ordered Lokan (a type of local clam), sea prawns, and a Coral Trout (Seven-star Grouper). The staff honestly advised us which items were the freshest catch and which were frozen. <b>The meal was absolutely delicious.</b> Given its prime location by the water in the city center, I felt the pricing was very reasonable. In total, our five dishes plus rice and a 6% consumption tax cost 313 RMB. The small stir-fried dishes were 24 RMB each, the Coral Trout was 148 RMB (though they had cheaper fish available), a plate of sea prawns was 48 RMB, and a plate of clams was 40 RMB.</p>

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<p>If you are visiting the National Museum of Singapore and Fort Canning Park, it is well worth taking a short detour to the nearby <b>MacKenzie Rex Restaurant</b> for authentic Halal Hainanese chicken rice. Opened in 1966, it is the first and most famous Halal Hainanese chicken rice restaurant in Singapore. The owner is a Hainanese Chinese who speaks fluent Mandarin and is always happy to introduce the dishes to guests. Besides their signature chicken rice, they excel in various Chinese home-style dishes, known locally in Singapore as "Zi Char" (cook and fry).</p>

<p>We ordered the classic chicken rice and Ngoh Hiang (five-spice meat rolls), along with stir-fried mixed vegetables and fish soup. <b>Every single dish was outstanding, easily making this the best meal of our Singapore trip.</b> The star of their chicken rice isn't just the chicken itself, but the rice, which is steamed with rich chicken fat—it's so flavorful you can't stop eating it even without any meat. Their Halal version of Ngoh Hiang uses minced chicken seasoned with five-spice powder, rolled in tofu skin, and deep-fried. Served piping hot, it is incredibly fragrant.</p>

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<p>When traveling to Brunei, a visit to the most famous, legendary Hainanese coffee shop is a must: <b>Ying Chow Coffee Shop</b>.</p>

<p>The founder, Han Qiongyuan, was from Wenchang, Hainan. In 1939, during the Japanese invasion of China, 17-year-old Han migrated to Nanyang (Southeast Asia) and arrived in Brunei, where he worked odd jobs at his uncle's coffee shop. <b>In 1946, he officially opened the Ying Chow Coffee Shop, serving coffee, bread, and other meals, becoming widely known for his "Roti Kuning" (longevity bread).</b> As the business flourished, Han expanded into real estate, spearheading the construction of the Hainan Building in Brunei. After 1993, he returned to his hometown annually to visit relatives and invested heavily there, earning the title "Patriotic Son of Hainan" from the Hainan provincial government three times.</p>

<p>Like many historic Nanyang Hainanese coffee shops, Ying Chow serves strictly Halal food and holds Bruneian Halal certification, making it a beloved spot for all ethnic groups. <b>Their variety of bread is astonishing.</b> The classic stuffed buns come in four flavors: peanut, red bean paste, butter, and coconut. They also offer peanut "Yin-Yang" bread, cheese bread, "Yin-Yang" yellow bread, and French toast, to which you can add fried eggs and cheese, or simply order half-boiled eggs on the side. Their cake selection includes custard cakes, egg tarts, coconut tarts, red bean pastries, butter cakes, and pandan cakes. <b>These Western-style breads and pastries are skills the Hainanese learned while working in British kitchens in the 19th century, and they are now an integral part of Nanyang Hainanese dining.</b></p>

<p>Beyond baked goods, they offer a variety of noodles, including sesame Kueh Teow, dry-tossed noodles, fried noodles, Hainanese noodles, fried rice vermicelli, and smooth egg Hor Fun, all tailored to Chinese palates. We had a feast combining East and West: smooth egg Hor Fun, sesame Kueh Teow, egg tarts, custard cake, yellow bread with fried egg, chicken curry puffs, peanut Yin-Yang bread, ginger milk tea, and lemon tea. The peanut Yin-Yang bread, filled with Kaya jam, butter, and crushed peanuts, offers a delightfully rich texture. The sesame Kueh Teow, balancing sweet, savory, and spicy flavors and served with fried tofu and fish pieces, is one of their absolute specialties.</p>

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<p>For lunch in the old town of Bandar Seri Begawan, Brunei, where many Chinese shops are located, we found another great Halal Hainanese spot: <b>Babu's Kitchen</b>. The place was packed for lunch, with a diverse crowd of Chinese, Malays, and Indians—a classic scene in a Hainanese restaurant. Since they didn't have a Chinese menu, we asked the boss for recommendations. We had Assam sliced fish, salted egg fried mushrooms, beef Yee Mee, and braised chicken with tofu skin. <b>Just like in Malaysia, the Chinese in Brunei speak very standard Mandarin.</b> The food was excellent; the Chinese dishes had a subtle infusion of Malay flavors, yet remained completely comforting and familiar to a Chinese palate.</p>

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<p>We continued our culinary exploration with a Hainanese breakfast at <b>Mei Kwong Coffee Shop</b> in the old town. The boss is Hainanese, his wife is from Xiamen, and the staff are Indonesian. As they cater mostly to the nearby office crowds, it gets very busy on weekdays. We visited on a weekend, so it was quieter and the selection of steamed dim sum was smaller than usual. We ordered large chicken and radish buns, red bean buns, beef congee with small fried dough sticks (Youtiao), longan herbal tea, fried noodles, and Siu Mai. <b>If any Duositi visit on a workday, I highly recommend trying their other specialties</b>, such as the Fuzhou "Zhao Cai" (wealth-attracting) rice vermicelli soup, dry-tossed rat noodles (Lao Shu Fen), and chicken intestine noodles.</p>

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<p><i>This article is a translated repost from the original source.</i></p> view all

<p>During our Spring Festival journey, we drove from Dayuan Hui Township in Qingchuan County, Guangyuan to Qingxi Ancient City to break our fast. Although there were only two tables with ten people at the Qingxi Mosque, the atmosphere was incredibly welcoming, making us feel right at home. <b>The warmth of the community was palpable</b>, with a sister cooking fresh dishes right at the mosque and elders bringing homemade food to share.</p>

<p>We were treated to the traditional Qingxi Hui Muslim "Nine Great Bowls" (Jiu Da Wan), a standard banquet feast. The spread was hearty and wholesome, featuring clear-stewed meat, crispy fried pork (prepared in the halal manner with beef or mutton), steamed meat with rice flour, braised chicken, and stir-fried cabbage with kelp. <b>The balance of meat and vegetables offered a deeply comforting, home-cooked flavor.</b> After the meal, the elders and the Imam generously packed stewed meat, fried dough cakes (Youxiang), and fruit for me to eat during Suhoor (the pre-dawn meal).</p>

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<p><b>Qingxi Ancient City is a vital pass along the historical Yinping Route</b>, historically known as the "Gateway to Northern Sichuan and the Throat of Western Shu." It has always been a bustling hub for merchants and a fiercely contested strategic military point. Since the Ming Dynasty, Hui Muslims from Shaanxi and Gansu have settled in Qingxi along this ancient route. The Qingxi Mosque was formally established in 1546 (the 25th year of the Jiajing reign of the Ming Dynasty). The current structure reflects its scale after being rebuilt in 1982.</p>

<p>A majestic Chinese honeylocust tree, standing for over 400 years in the courtyard, serves as a silent, powerful witness to the mosque's enduring history.</p>

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<p>The Youxiang and chicken prepared for Suhoor.</p>

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<p><b>The ancient city of Qingxi comes alive at night.</b> The streets are lined with numerous Hui Muslim eateries, offering a rich variety of foods ranging from fried cakes and crispy pastries to restaurants serving stir-fries, braised meats, and twice-cooked dishes. There are also snack shops selling beef and flatbread soup (Niu Rou Hui Mo) and wontons, as well as places famous for traditional copper hotpot. <b>Sichuan boasts several ancient towns and cities with abundant Hui Muslim culinary delights</b>, such as Dujiangyan, Songpan, and Langzhong, all of which are highly worth a visit. In my experience, Qingxi Ancient Town is less crowded with tourists, making it an ideal, serene summer retreat deep within the Qinba Mountains.</p>

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<p>The area outside the east gate of Qingxi Ancient City is the main residential district for the Hui community. It has recently been developed into a Hui cultural street, bustling with numerous halal restaurants and snack stalls where one can enjoy authentic beef copper hotpot and the traditional Hui "Nine Great Bowls."</p>

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<p><i>This article is a translated repost from the original source.</i></p> view all