Kaifeng Halal Food Guide: Simen Soup Pot and Muslim Night Market (Part 1 of 2)
Summary: This travel note introduces Kaifeng Halal Food Guide: Simen Soup Pot and Muslim Night Market. In early November 2018, I took advantage of the weekend to visit Kaifeng, arriving in three and a half hours by high-speed train from Beijing. It is useful for readers interested in Kaifeng Travel, Halal Food, Muslim Night Market. This is part 1 of 2.
In early November 2018, I took advantage of the weekend to visit Kaifeng, arriving in three and a half hours by high-speed train from Beijing. Because I only had two days, the itinerary was very tight. I drank soup at Simen in the morning, visited the mosque's ancient architecture during the day, and ate at the halal night market in the evening, hoping to record the style of the Kaifeng Muslim community as much as possible during these two days. Below, I will share my experience of Kaifeng halal food with everyone.
Drinking soup at Simen
The 'bad habit' of the Xiangfu people is that they love to drink soup. As long as they have some money in their pockets, regardless of whether they have food for tomorrow or not, they will enjoy a bowl of soup today. Where is the best soup in Xiangfu city? Of course, it is the soup at Simen. — 'Simen'
'Simen' (Mosque Gate) is the soul of the Kaifeng Muslim community. 'Simen' refers to the gate of the Kaifeng Dongda Mosque. Historically, the Dongda Mosque has suffered many times from Yellow River floods. Each time it was destroyed, it was rebuilt. The current building is the appearance after it was rebuilt in 1846 (the 26th year of the Daoguang reign) following the Yellow River flood in 1841 (the 21st year of the Daoguang reign).

The Muslim community centered on the Dongda Mosque is known as the 'First Community of Henan.' It includes more than 20 streets and alleys with over 20,000 people. It is the only one of the three major Muslim residential areas in Kaifeng's history (Dongda Mosque, Beida Mosque, and Wenshu Mosque) that has not undergone large-scale demolition and renovation, and it still maintains the traditional form of a Muslim community.

From 'Locality of Urban Hui Muslim Communities: A Study Based on Place Attachment in the Dongda Mosque Hui Muslim Community of Kaifeng'
Various halal delicacies gather on Qingping North and South Streets at the entrance of the Dongda Mosque. These eateries generally operate from dawn until after one o'clock in the afternoon; in the afternoon, there are only cooked food and pastry shops.




Outside of Qingping North and South Streets, most of the area around the Dongda Mosque is still these quiet little alleys.



1. Siweicai (four-flavor dish) and shaobing (baked flatbread)
Siweicai is a famous Kaifeng breakfast, which is made by braising daylily, gluten, beef meatballs, and mutton in mutton soup. It has a very rich flavor when eaten. This Zhao Family Siweicai is a very famous one in Simen. When I got into the taxi from the high-speed railway station to the city, the driver heard I was going to Simen and urged me to try the Zhao family's Siweicai.

There is a long line on weekend mornings.


When eating Siweicai, it is usually paired with guokui (hard-crusted flatbread) or shaobing. I chose shaobing this time. This is the first time I have seen this kind of large sesame shaobing. When it is fresh, it is hot to hold, fragrant, and crispy. It can be soaked in the soup or bitten open to stuff with Siweicai. Eating it makes one feel very comfortable.




This is how shaobing is made.


2. Mutton soup and guokui
Besides Siweicai, the most classic is still this mutton soup paired with guokui. The one I ate at is Yanji Mutton Fresh Soup right across from the Dongda Mosque. When serving the soup, the uncle asks if you want oil, which is a great treat for mutton fat lovers.





3. Hulatang (spicy soup) paired with jidan budai (egg-stuffed fried dough)
Next to Zhao Family Siweicai is Ma Liu Mutton Hulatang. Unlike the freshness of mutton soup, drinking Hulatang is more about that refreshing feeling in late autumn. After eating it, your whole body feels clear, and you have a good mood for the day.



Paired with Hulatang is jidan budai, also called jidan hebao (egg pouch) or zha laohu (fried tiger). This is hard to see in Beijing now, but it still exists in Tianjin.

4. Mutton steamed dumplings
Between the Siweicai and Hulatang is Li Ji Steamed Dumplings and Shaomai (steamed dumplings). Because I was too full, I didn't have room, so the steamed dumplings in the photo are actually from the next table.


5. Duck gizzard four-treasure vermicelli soup
Opposite the Siweicai is the only duck gizzard four-treasure vermicelli soup in Simen, which can also be served with mutton fat. This place gives a very generous portion, and I think the duck liver in the soup is the most delicious.



6. Beef huoshao (baked wheat cake)
Continuing north is Mu Family Beef Huoshao. This is very suitable for eating while walking around the alleys of Simen, feeling relaxed and content.




There are also stalls selling pickles in Simen, which are even better when paired with soup.

7. Doumo (bean paste soup) paired with caijiao (vegetable dumplings)
Besides Simen, there are actually many halal breakfast eateries in Kaifeng. During this trip to Kaifeng, I ate doumo and caijiao at a Hulatang eatery near Wenshu Mosque. Doumo is a breakfast popular in the Hebei, Shandong, and Henan regions. Kaifeng's five-spice doumo is made by mixing millet flour with various seasonings, adding shredded tofu, peanuts, spinach, and vermicelli, and finally drizzling with sesame paste.



Lively night market
1. Xueyuanmen Halal Night Market
On the west side of Jiefang Road, not far west of Simen, is Kaifeng's only halal night market, Xueyuanmen Night Market. Everything sold here is authentic Kaifeng halal late-night snacks. For me, living in Beijing where there are no night markets, visiting a night market is really great! I want to try everything; I really hate that my stomach isn't big enough.

This place sells stir-fried seafood and crayfish, very night-market style. The stir-fried seafood is spicy and very satisfying.



Coming to Kaifeng, of course, you have to try the soup-filled xiaolongbao (small steamed buns). Taking a bite, the slightly sweet soup fills your mouth. After eating, it can truly be described as leaving a lingering fragrance on the lips and teeth.