Halal Travel Guide: Kazan, Tatarstan - Mosques, Food and Muslim History
Reposted from the web
Summary: Kazan, the capital of Tatarstan, is shown through the Kazan Kremlin, Tatar Muslim history, mosques, markets, and local food. This account keeps the original route, historical background, Tatar names, and photographs from the trip.
Castle
The Kazan Kremlin is in the heart of Kazan, the capital of Tatarstan, and it started as a fortress for the Volga Bulgaria khanate. After the 9th century, the Bulgars along the Volga River kept expanding to the northwest. To protect trade routes on the Volga, the Bulgars built a military fortress at the turn of the 10th and 11th centuries in the middle reaches of the river, featuring a 4-meter-deep steep trench and a 3-meter-high earthen wall, which marks the beginning of Kazan's history as a city.
In the late 12th century, because Russian principalities kept attacking the Volga Bulgaria khanate, the khanate added 2-meter-thick white stone walls to the city of Kazan. After Kazan was incorporated into the Golden Horde in the 13th century, it jumped from a border fortress to become a political and economic center in the middle Volga region, famous for leather, jewelry, ceramics, and metalwork.
After the Golden Horde collapsed in the 15th century, the Kazan Khanate (1438-1552) was established in Kazan. As the capital, Kazan's population grew quickly, and many homes and public buildings were built, including the khan's palace, courtyards, mosques, and mausoleums, with tall minarets defining the city skyline.
In 1552, Ivan the Terrible of Russia attacked Kazan, destroyed the Kazan Khanate, and drove all Tatars out of the city, allowing only Russians to settle there. Between 1556 and 1562, Ivan the Terrible ordered the construction of the Kazan Kremlin on the site of the old Kazan Khanate fortress. The mosques, the Kazan khan's palace, and the mausoleums were first used as weapon and ammunition depots, but they were all eventually torn down in the 18th century.
In 1977, a hydraulic engineer accidentally dug up a grave while laying rainwater pipes at the Kazan Kremlin and immediately contacted the archaeology department. Archaeological excavations lasted for 10 years and uncovered 5 graves, 2 of which were confirmed to be those of the actual founders of the Kazan Khanate, Mäxmüd Khan (died 1463 or 1466) and his grandson, Möxämmät Ämin (died 1518). The tomb was originally made of white stone and eventually collapsed in the 17th century.
For further research, the remains of the two Kazan khans, Mäxmüd and Möxämmät Ämin, were kept at the Institute of Archaeology of the Tatarstan Academy of Sciences for 40 years. In May 2017, after continuous efforts by the Tatar Muslims of Kazan, the two khans were finally reburied not far from their original graves.
Mahmud Khan was the eldest son of Ulugh Muhammad, the Great Khan of the Golden Horde, and a descendant of Jochi, the eldest son of Genghis Khan. Mahmud took the throne in 1445 and kept control over Moscow. During his reign, Kazan completely separated from the Golden Horde, marking the beginning of what later generations call the Kazan Khanate.
Muhammad Amin Khan was the grandson of Mahmud Khan. He got involved in the internal struggles between pro-Russian and anti-Russian factions in the khanate at age 10. As a khan supported by Moscow, he took the throne three times: from 1484 to 1485, 1487 to 1495, and 1502 to 1518. He also paid tribute to Grand Prince Ivan III of Moscow. Later in his reign, he stopped paying tribute to Moscow and worked to strengthen his country to oppose the Grand Duchy of Moscow.
Between 2004 and 2005, the Institute of Archaeology at the Tatarstan Academy of Sciences re-excavated the Kazan Khan tombs. They found the graves of four more Kazan khans: Khalil (died 1467), Ibrahim (died 1478), Safa Giray (died 1549), and Canghali (died 1535). Today, these four khans' graves are protected under a glass roof.
Khalil Khan was the eldest son of Mahmud Khan. He was known for breaking treaties with the Grand Prince of Moscow and for his poor relationship with the Nogai tribe. The young khan died early, not long after taking the throne. One legend says he died in prison due to the war with the Golden Horde.
Ibrahim Khan was Khalil Khan's younger brother. He fought the Grand Duchy of Moscow many times and won a major victory in 1467 while resisting Grand Prince Ivan III of Moscow.
Safa Giray Khan came from the Giray family of the Crimean Khanate. He served as the Kazan khan three times: from 1524 to 1531, 1535 to 1546, and 1546 to 1549.
Canghali Khan was originally the khan of the Qasim Khanate, a vassal state of the Grand Duchy of Moscow. In 1532, Grand Prince Vasily III of Moscow defeated the Kazan khan, Safa Giray, and installed 16-year-old Canghali as the pro-Russian khan of Kazan. He died in 1535 during a coup by Kazan nobles.
At the entrance of the Kul Sharif mosque inside the Kazan Kremlin, there are performances about the Siege of Kazan. In 1552, Ivan the Terrible besieged Kazan. The last imam of the Kazan Khanate, Seid Kul Sharif, led the people in a final stand and died in the city. Today, Seid Kul Sharif is a national hero to the Kazan Tatars, and the Kul Sharif Mosque, built in 2005, is named after him.
Museums
There is a small museum of Islamic culture on the basement level of the Kul Sharif Mosque.
The Kazan Kremlin also hosts regular exhibitions. When I visited in 2019, I saw a special exhibition called The Golden Horde and the Black Sea Coast: Lessons from the Genghis Khan Empire. The items came from the State Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg and nine other museums, showcasing the history of the Golden Horde and the Mongol Empire.
The National Museum of the Republic of Tatarstan opened in 1895. The building was once the Gostinniy guesthouse and is a historical monument itself. The museum holds over 800,000 items, including pieces related to the Golden Horde, the Kazan Khanate, and the Kazan Tatars.
The Çäkçäk Museum in Kazan is the most direct way to experience traditional Tatar culture. The museum is located in a Tatar wooden house in the historic Tatar district of Kazan. The interior does a great job of recreating a traditional Tatar home, which feels very authentic. If you have a group of six, they can teach you how to make honey cake (çäkçäk) on the spot. Since I was alone, I booked a tasting and tour session on their website (https://www.muzeino.ru/). The museum staff will email you to confirm if you want the tour in English or Russian.
The experience was wonderful. When I arrived at the museum at the scheduled time, a Tatar woman who spoke fluent English was already waiting for me. The whole process felt like visiting a Tatar family. She told me various Tatar legends, daily customs, and cultural traditions, then explained the detailed process of making the national dessert, çäkçäk. Afterward, she brewed some Tatar tea for me. As I tasted traditional Tatar sweets, she told me about Tatar clothing, silver jewelry, and embroidery, and we had a great time chatting.
Mosques
In 1552, Ivan the Terrible conquered the Kazan Khanate, massacred most of the Tatars in Kazan, and tore down every mosque in the city. In 1556, Russia rebuilt the city of Kazan and settled 7,000 Russians there. The Tatars were forced to convert to Christianity, and those who remained were relocated to settlements far from the city. After this, some Tatars who served Russia settled by Lake Kaban, southwest of Kazan. Later, Tatar merchants and craftspeople moved there as well, and the Old Tatar Quarter (Staro-Tatarskaya Sloboda) gradually formed. However, during this time, Kazan did not have any official mosques.
Before the 18th century, most buildings in Kazan were made of wood and were very prone to fires. During the reign of Catherine the Great (who ruled from 1762 to 1796), the city of Kazan began to be rebuilt using brick and stone.
In 1770, more than 200 years after the fall of Kazan, the first brick mosque was completed with the approval of Catherine the Great. From then on, the Kazan Tatars had an official mosque again. Between 1770 and 1930, a period of 160 years, Tatar merchants built many mosques in Kazan, centered around the Old Tatar Quarter. Twelve of these still survive today. Mosques from this period combined traditional Tatar architecture with Baroque, Classical, and Eclectic styles to create a unique Kazan Tatar mosque architectural style.
In 1930, Stalin ordered the closure of the mosques. Except for the earliest one, the Marjani Mosque, all 11 other mosques in Kazan were closed and repurposed. Many mosque buildings were damaged, and their minarets were torn down. It was not until the late 1980s that these mosques were gradually returned to the Kazan Tatar Muslims.
The Marjani Mosque was built between 1766 and 1770 with the permission of Catherine the Great. It was the first brick mosque built in Kazan after Russia destroyed the Kazan Khanate in 1552. This mosque is the oldest surviving mosque in Tatarstan and the only one in Kazan that was not closed during the Soviet era.
The interior of the mosque uses a St. Petersburg Baroque style. The merchant İ.Ğ. Yunısov donated funds to build a staircase in 1861 and expanded the mihrab in 1863. At that time, the mosque was named the Yunısovs' Mosque after his family. In 1885, the merchant Z. Ğosmanov donated funds to renovate the minaret. In 1887, merchants W. Ğizzätullin and M. Wälişin added decorative window balconies to the minaret.
The Apanay (Apanaevskaya) Mosque was the second mosque approved by Catherine the Great to be built in Kazan. It was donated by the merchant Apanaev and built between 1768 and 1771. The mosque architecture blends traditional Tatar style with Moscow Baroque style. In 1872, architect P. I. Romanov expanded the mosque by adding a second floor. In 1882, the mosque built a brick perimeter wall and added a shop. In 1887, the shop was expanded to include a second floor.
The mosque closed in 1930, its minaret was torn down, and it later became a kindergarten. The mosque reopened after 1995, and the minaret was rebuilt in 2011.
Galeevskaya Mosque was built between 1798 and 1801 with funds donated by merchant Musa Mamyashev. The mosque was originally built in the early classicism style of the late 18th century, then expanded twice in the late classicism style in 1882 and 1897.
The mosque was closed in the 1930s, its minaret was torn down, and it was designated an architectural monument in 1981. By 1992, the mosque housed a hotel, a collective farm building, and various utility facilities. After 1998, the site became a campus for the Russian Islamic University and a dormitory for female students of the Muhammad Madrasa. The mosque reopened in 2015 after undergoing restoration.
İske Taş, also known as the Big Stone Mosque, was built in 1802 with a donation from merchant Ğabdulla Ütämişev. Legend says this mosque was built on the site of a grave for soldiers who died defending the city of Kazan in 1552, marked by an ancient big stone (zur iske taş).
In 1830, Alexander Schmidt rebuilt the mosque in a classicism style, featuring a three-story minaret that resembles those found in the ancient Bolghar and Kasimov regions of the Tatars.
Following a decision by the Central Executive Committee of the Tatar Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic in the late 1930s, the mosque was closed and later turned into a school and warehouse, only being returned to the Muslims in 1994.
The White Mosque was built between 1801 and 1805. It looks like the Iske Tash mosque built in the same period and has a classic style. The mosque closed in 1929 and became a school and a fur workshop. In the 1930s, the minaret was torn down, and the east and south parts of the main hall were rebuilt. The mosque became an architectural monument in 1960. It was returned to the Muslims in 2004, but it is still not open.
The Pink (Rozovaya) Mosque was built in 1808 with a donation from merchant Musa Apanaev. It is the Islamic center of the Novaya Tatarskaya Sloboda area in Kazan. The mosque closed in 1931 and reopened in 1991. By then, Novaya Tatarskaya Sloboda had become an industrial area. Today, it is the Kazan Higher Muslim Islamic Madrasa.
The Blue (Zangar) Mosque was built between 1815 and 1819 with money from merchant Akhmet Aitov-Zamanov. The architect was Alexander Schmidt. Bolshaya Meshchanskaya Street used to be home to the poorest residents of the old Tatar community. These residents built a wooden mosque here in 1778. In 1815, the original wooden mosque was moved to another village, and the current brick mosque in the classic style was built here.
The mosque was expanded twice, in 1864 and 1907. The mosque closed in 1932, the minaret was torn down, and it was turned into housing. It reopened in 1993, and the minaret was rebuilt in 2009.
The Nurulla Mosque was built between 1845 and 1849 with donations from merchant G. M. Yunisov. It has a minaret in the ancient Volga Bulgar style and a dome in the Middle Eastern style.
The mosque is part of a group of buildings around the Sennoy Bazaar. The Sennoy Bazaar was the trade center for the old Tatar community in Kazan during the 18th and 19th centuries. At that time, the mosque was mainly used by Tatar merchants doing business at the Sennoy Bazaar. It was originally named the Sennobazarnaya Mosque after the bazaar.
The mosque was closed in 1929 and turned into apartments and offices. During that time, the minaret was destroyed. It was not returned to the Muslims until 1992 and was renamed Nurulla Mosque. The minaret was restored between 1990 and 1995.
Soltan Mosque was built in 1868 with a donation from the Tatar merchant Zigansha Usmanov. The area where the mosque is located is called Zabulachye, which means behind the Bulak Canal. During the Kazan Khanate period, this place was outside the city and had a settlement called Kuraisheva Sloboda. After Ivan the Terrible conquered Kazan in 1552, this area remained a place where Tatars lived, but it was gradually surrounded by Russian settlements, and churches began to be built right next to the mosque.
In the 19th century, the Tatar merchant Cihanşa Ğosmanov decided to build a mosque here that looked better than the church next to it. The mosque was completed in 1868, and to honor him, people called it Ğosmanov Mosque or Cihanşa Mosque.
At first, the walls of the mosque were red, so it was also called the Red Mosque. Now the mosque is called Soltan Mosque to honor Zigansha's son, Sultan Abdulgaziz Usmanov, who continued to look after the local community after his father passed away.
The mosque closed in 1931, and later the minaret was destroyed. It became an architectural monument in 1980. The minaret was rebuilt in 1990, and the mosque reopened in 1994.
Bornay (Burnaevskaya) Mosque was built in 1872 with funds donated by the Tatar merchant Mukhametsadyk Burnayev, and the architect was Peter Romanov.
The mosque is located in the Old Tatar neighborhood behind Kaban Lake. In 1799, the Tatar merchant Salikh Mustafin built a wooden mosque here. The mosque was first built for students at the Apanaev madrasa, and later, local residents began using it too. Unfortunately, the mosque was later destroyed in a fire. In 1872, Tatar merchant Mukhametsadyk Burnayev donated money to build the current brick mosque on the site of the burned-down wooden one, and it was named after him.
The mosque features a national romantic eclectic style, blending Russian and Tatar architectural decorations. In 1895, shortly before Burnayev passed away, a magnificent minaret was built based on designs by architects Fyodor Malinovsky and Lev Khrshonovich.
The mosque closed in 1930, but fortunately, the minaret was preserved. It reopened in 1994.
The Azimov Mosque was built between 1887 and 1890 with donations from Tatar merchant Mortaza Äcimev. The mosque was built in a national romantic eclectic style and is known as the most beautiful mosque in Kazan.
The mosque is located in an area called Pleten (wicker fence), situated between the Old Tatar and New Tatar neighborhoods. In 1851, Tatar merchant Mustafa Azimov built a wooden mosque here. Between 1887 and 1890, his son Murtaza Azimov donated funds to build the current brick mosque, which was named after them. Because many Muslim workers from soap factories lived in the Pleten area, it is also called Zavodskaya (factory mosque).
The mosque closed in 1930 and was used as a school. It was returned to the Muslims in 1989 and reopened in 1992.
The Zakabannaya Mosque, also known as the Mosque of the 1000th Anniversary of the Adoption of Islam, was built between 1924 and 1926 to commemorate the 1000th anniversary of the Volga Bulgars converting to Islam in 922. Stalin personally approved the construction of the mosque. It was designed by architect A. E. Pechnikov in 1914 and built with public donations.
The mosque closed in 1930 and reopened in 1991. It was the last mosque built in Kazan before Stalin ordered the closure of mosques in 1930.
Accommodation
I stayed at a traditional Tatar estate called Tatarskaya Usadba by the shore of Lake Kaban, which was originally the home of a 19th-century Tatar merchant named Khamit Sabitov. The estate offers both lodging and dining, but since I didn't book a main meal in advance, I only had breakfast, which was also in the traditional Tatar style.
Cultural Activities
I was very lucky to attend the Tatar cultural festival called the Pechen Bazaar (Pechen bazary) in Kazan. It was very lively, with various Tatar designers, poets, musicians, and filmmakers showing their work and sharing ideas.
For traditional Tatar tea, you can see ingredients like thyme, linden leaves, chamomile, oregano, mint, and sage added to the brew. I also saw an uncle toss pine cones directly into the tea stove, which made it smell wonderful.
Traditional Tatar desserts are a bit like Turkish sweets and go perfectly with tea.
Cakes made by Tatar girls.
Tatar craftspeople.
A young Tatar person is creating Arabic calligraphy on the spot using thread.
A Tatar auntie is selling headpieces for Kazan Tatar women, which are decorated with pearls and look very beautiful.
At the honey stall, the festival invited some Tatar people living in the countryside to sell their own honey, cheese, and sausages, which was also very interesting.
A stall selling traditional Tatar clothing.
An uncle who is an architect specializing in building mosques is sharing how to construct them.
A young Tatar female poet is reading her poetry.
The outfit worn by the host is the formal attire of urban Kazan Tatars from the early 20th century.
This stall is a creative brand featuring a sweet Islamic style inspired by Tatar culture.
A stall selling books about Tatar culture.
Restaurant
While in Kazan, I ate at the famous traditional Tatar restaurant Dom Tatarskoi Kulinarii (Tatar Cuisine House) on Bauman Street. The restaurant opened in 1969. It was founded by Yunus Akhmetzyanov, a Tatar food expert and author of "Dishes of Tatar cuisine," who served as the head chef until 1984.
In the evening, I ate at Teatr Natsionalnoi Kukhni, a restaurant inside another Tatar estate by Lake Kaban that was once the home of the wealthy Tatar merchant Bikmukhametov. I ordered horse meat salad, cream of pumpkin soup with dried apricots and cream cheese, and a fresh horse meat stew called Kullama. Kullama is the Tatar version of the national dish of Kazakhstan, five-finger stew (Beshbarmak).
Tubatay is a fast-food restaurant selling traditional Tatar dishes, and they also have a shop inside the ancient city of Bolghar. The name "Tubatay" refers to the traditional round cap worn by Tatar people.
I ordered steamed dumplings (Manti), a signature meat pie (Belesh) made with sour cream dough and a filling of beef, potatoes, and onions, Tatar clear soup dumplings (Pilmen) served with sour cream (Smetana), and Tatar tea.
Next to where I stayed, there was a large halal supermarket specializing in Tatar goods, with a dazzling variety of traditional Tatar desserts.
Street view
Street view of the Tatar community in Kazan
Summary: Kazan, the capital of Tatarstan, is shown through the Kazan Kremlin, Tatar Muslim history, mosques, markets, and local food. This account keeps the original route, historical background, Tatar names, and photographs from the trip.
Castle
The Kazan Kremlin is in the heart of Kazan, the capital of Tatarstan, and it started as a fortress for the Volga Bulgaria khanate. After the 9th century, the Bulgars along the Volga River kept expanding to the northwest. To protect trade routes on the Volga, the Bulgars built a military fortress at the turn of the 10th and 11th centuries in the middle reaches of the river, featuring a 4-meter-deep steep trench and a 3-meter-high earthen wall, which marks the beginning of Kazan's history as a city.
In the late 12th century, because Russian principalities kept attacking the Volga Bulgaria khanate, the khanate added 2-meter-thick white stone walls to the city of Kazan. After Kazan was incorporated into the Golden Horde in the 13th century, it jumped from a border fortress to become a political and economic center in the middle Volga region, famous for leather, jewelry, ceramics, and metalwork.
After the Golden Horde collapsed in the 15th century, the Kazan Khanate (1438-1552) was established in Kazan. As the capital, Kazan's population grew quickly, and many homes and public buildings were built, including the khan's palace, courtyards, mosques, and mausoleums, with tall minarets defining the city skyline.
In 1552, Ivan the Terrible of Russia attacked Kazan, destroyed the Kazan Khanate, and drove all Tatars out of the city, allowing only Russians to settle there. Between 1556 and 1562, Ivan the Terrible ordered the construction of the Kazan Kremlin on the site of the old Kazan Khanate fortress. The mosques, the Kazan khan's palace, and the mausoleums were first used as weapon and ammunition depots, but they were all eventually torn down in the 18th century.
In 1977, a hydraulic engineer accidentally dug up a grave while laying rainwater pipes at the Kazan Kremlin and immediately contacted the archaeology department. Archaeological excavations lasted for 10 years and uncovered 5 graves, 2 of which were confirmed to be those of the actual founders of the Kazan Khanate, Mäxmüd Khan (died 1463 or 1466) and his grandson, Möxämmät Ämin (died 1518). The tomb was originally made of white stone and eventually collapsed in the 17th century.
For further research, the remains of the two Kazan khans, Mäxmüd and Möxämmät Ämin, were kept at the Institute of Archaeology of the Tatarstan Academy of Sciences for 40 years. In May 2017, after continuous efforts by the Tatar Muslims of Kazan, the two khans were finally reburied not far from their original graves.
Mahmud Khan was the eldest son of Ulugh Muhammad, the Great Khan of the Golden Horde, and a descendant of Jochi, the eldest son of Genghis Khan. Mahmud took the throne in 1445 and kept control over Moscow. During his reign, Kazan completely separated from the Golden Horde, marking the beginning of what later generations call the Kazan Khanate.
Muhammad Amin Khan was the grandson of Mahmud Khan. He got involved in the internal struggles between pro-Russian and anti-Russian factions in the khanate at age 10. As a khan supported by Moscow, he took the throne three times: from 1484 to 1485, 1487 to 1495, and 1502 to 1518. He also paid tribute to Grand Prince Ivan III of Moscow. Later in his reign, he stopped paying tribute to Moscow and worked to strengthen his country to oppose the Grand Duchy of Moscow.
Between 2004 and 2005, the Institute of Archaeology at the Tatarstan Academy of Sciences re-excavated the Kazan Khan tombs. They found the graves of four more Kazan khans: Khalil (died 1467), Ibrahim (died 1478), Safa Giray (died 1549), and Canghali (died 1535). Today, these four khans' graves are protected under a glass roof.
Khalil Khan was the eldest son of Mahmud Khan. He was known for breaking treaties with the Grand Prince of Moscow and for his poor relationship with the Nogai tribe. The young khan died early, not long after taking the throne. One legend says he died in prison due to the war with the Golden Horde.
Ibrahim Khan was Khalil Khan's younger brother. He fought the Grand Duchy of Moscow many times and won a major victory in 1467 while resisting Grand Prince Ivan III of Moscow.
Safa Giray Khan came from the Giray family of the Crimean Khanate. He served as the Kazan khan three times: from 1524 to 1531, 1535 to 1546, and 1546 to 1549.
Canghali Khan was originally the khan of the Qasim Khanate, a vassal state of the Grand Duchy of Moscow. In 1532, Grand Prince Vasily III of Moscow defeated the Kazan khan, Safa Giray, and installed 16-year-old Canghali as the pro-Russian khan of Kazan. He died in 1535 during a coup by Kazan nobles.
At the entrance of the Kul Sharif mosque inside the Kazan Kremlin, there are performances about the Siege of Kazan. In 1552, Ivan the Terrible besieged Kazan. The last imam of the Kazan Khanate, Seid Kul Sharif, led the people in a final stand and died in the city. Today, Seid Kul Sharif is a national hero to the Kazan Tatars, and the Kul Sharif Mosque, built in 2005, is named after him.
Museums
There is a small museum of Islamic culture on the basement level of the Kul Sharif Mosque.
The Kazan Kremlin also hosts regular exhibitions. When I visited in 2019, I saw a special exhibition called The Golden Horde and the Black Sea Coast: Lessons from the Genghis Khan Empire. The items came from the State Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg and nine other museums, showcasing the history of the Golden Horde and the Mongol Empire.
The National Museum of the Republic of Tatarstan opened in 1895. The building was once the Gostinniy guesthouse and is a historical monument itself. The museum holds over 800,000 items, including pieces related to the Golden Horde, the Kazan Khanate, and the Kazan Tatars.
The Çäkçäk Museum in Kazan is the most direct way to experience traditional Tatar culture. The museum is located in a Tatar wooden house in the historic Tatar district of Kazan. The interior does a great job of recreating a traditional Tatar home, which feels very authentic. If you have a group of six, they can teach you how to make honey cake (çäkçäk) on the spot. Since I was alone, I booked a tasting and tour session on their website (https://www.muzeino.ru/). The museum staff will email you to confirm if you want the tour in English or Russian.
The experience was wonderful. When I arrived at the museum at the scheduled time, a Tatar woman who spoke fluent English was already waiting for me. The whole process felt like visiting a Tatar family. She told me various Tatar legends, daily customs, and cultural traditions, then explained the detailed process of making the national dessert, çäkçäk. Afterward, she brewed some Tatar tea for me. As I tasted traditional Tatar sweets, she told me about Tatar clothing, silver jewelry, and embroidery, and we had a great time chatting.
Mosques
In 1552, Ivan the Terrible conquered the Kazan Khanate, massacred most of the Tatars in Kazan, and tore down every mosque in the city. In 1556, Russia rebuilt the city of Kazan and settled 7,000 Russians there. The Tatars were forced to convert to Christianity, and those who remained were relocated to settlements far from the city. After this, some Tatars who served Russia settled by Lake Kaban, southwest of Kazan. Later, Tatar merchants and craftspeople moved there as well, and the Old Tatar Quarter (Staro-Tatarskaya Sloboda) gradually formed. However, during this time, Kazan did not have any official mosques.
Before the 18th century, most buildings in Kazan were made of wood and were very prone to fires. During the reign of Catherine the Great (who ruled from 1762 to 1796), the city of Kazan began to be rebuilt using brick and stone.
In 1770, more than 200 years after the fall of Kazan, the first brick mosque was completed with the approval of Catherine the Great. From then on, the Kazan Tatars had an official mosque again. Between 1770 and 1930, a period of 160 years, Tatar merchants built many mosques in Kazan, centered around the Old Tatar Quarter. Twelve of these still survive today. Mosques from this period combined traditional Tatar architecture with Baroque, Classical, and Eclectic styles to create a unique Kazan Tatar mosque architectural style.
In 1930, Stalin ordered the closure of the mosques. Except for the earliest one, the Marjani Mosque, all 11 other mosques in Kazan were closed and repurposed. Many mosque buildings were damaged, and their minarets were torn down. It was not until the late 1980s that these mosques were gradually returned to the Kazan Tatar Muslims.
The Marjani Mosque was built between 1766 and 1770 with the permission of Catherine the Great. It was the first brick mosque built in Kazan after Russia destroyed the Kazan Khanate in 1552. This mosque is the oldest surviving mosque in Tatarstan and the only one in Kazan that was not closed during the Soviet era.
The interior of the mosque uses a St. Petersburg Baroque style. The merchant İ.Ğ. Yunısov donated funds to build a staircase in 1861 and expanded the mihrab in 1863. At that time, the mosque was named the Yunısovs' Mosque after his family. In 1885, the merchant Z. Ğosmanov donated funds to renovate the minaret. In 1887, merchants W. Ğizzätullin and M. Wälişin added decorative window balconies to the minaret.
The Apanay (Apanaevskaya) Mosque was the second mosque approved by Catherine the Great to be built in Kazan. It was donated by the merchant Apanaev and built between 1768 and 1771. The mosque architecture blends traditional Tatar style with Moscow Baroque style. In 1872, architect P. I. Romanov expanded the mosque by adding a second floor. In 1882, the mosque built a brick perimeter wall and added a shop. In 1887, the shop was expanded to include a second floor.
The mosque closed in 1930, its minaret was torn down, and it later became a kindergarten. The mosque reopened after 1995, and the minaret was rebuilt in 2011.
Galeevskaya Mosque was built between 1798 and 1801 with funds donated by merchant Musa Mamyashev. The mosque was originally built in the early classicism style of the late 18th century, then expanded twice in the late classicism style in 1882 and 1897.
The mosque was closed in the 1930s, its minaret was torn down, and it was designated an architectural monument in 1981. By 1992, the mosque housed a hotel, a collective farm building, and various utility facilities. After 1998, the site became a campus for the Russian Islamic University and a dormitory for female students of the Muhammad Madrasa. The mosque reopened in 2015 after undergoing restoration.
İske Taş, also known as the Big Stone Mosque, was built in 1802 with a donation from merchant Ğabdulla Ütämişev. Legend says this mosque was built on the site of a grave for soldiers who died defending the city of Kazan in 1552, marked by an ancient big stone (zur iske taş).
In 1830, Alexander Schmidt rebuilt the mosque in a classicism style, featuring a three-story minaret that resembles those found in the ancient Bolghar and Kasimov regions of the Tatars.
Following a decision by the Central Executive Committee of the Tatar Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic in the late 1930s, the mosque was closed and later turned into a school and warehouse, only being returned to the Muslims in 1994.
The White Mosque was built between 1801 and 1805. It looks like the Iske Tash mosque built in the same period and has a classic style. The mosque closed in 1929 and became a school and a fur workshop. In the 1930s, the minaret was torn down, and the east and south parts of the main hall were rebuilt. The mosque became an architectural monument in 1960. It was returned to the Muslims in 2004, but it is still not open.
The Pink (Rozovaya) Mosque was built in 1808 with a donation from merchant Musa Apanaev. It is the Islamic center of the Novaya Tatarskaya Sloboda area in Kazan. The mosque closed in 1931 and reopened in 1991. By then, Novaya Tatarskaya Sloboda had become an industrial area. Today, it is the Kazan Higher Muslim Islamic Madrasa.
The Blue (Zangar) Mosque was built between 1815 and 1819 with money from merchant Akhmet Aitov-Zamanov. The architect was Alexander Schmidt. Bolshaya Meshchanskaya Street used to be home to the poorest residents of the old Tatar community. These residents built a wooden mosque here in 1778. In 1815, the original wooden mosque was moved to another village, and the current brick mosque in the classic style was built here.
The mosque was expanded twice, in 1864 and 1907. The mosque closed in 1932, the minaret was torn down, and it was turned into housing. It reopened in 1993, and the minaret was rebuilt in 2009.
The Nurulla Mosque was built between 1845 and 1849 with donations from merchant G. M. Yunisov. It has a minaret in the ancient Volga Bulgar style and a dome in the Middle Eastern style.
The mosque is part of a group of buildings around the Sennoy Bazaar. The Sennoy Bazaar was the trade center for the old Tatar community in Kazan during the 18th and 19th centuries. At that time, the mosque was mainly used by Tatar merchants doing business at the Sennoy Bazaar. It was originally named the Sennobazarnaya Mosque after the bazaar.
The mosque was closed in 1929 and turned into apartments and offices. During that time, the minaret was destroyed. It was not returned to the Muslims until 1992 and was renamed Nurulla Mosque. The minaret was restored between 1990 and 1995.
Soltan Mosque was built in 1868 with a donation from the Tatar merchant Zigansha Usmanov. The area where the mosque is located is called Zabulachye, which means behind the Bulak Canal. During the Kazan Khanate period, this place was outside the city and had a settlement called Kuraisheva Sloboda. After Ivan the Terrible conquered Kazan in 1552, this area remained a place where Tatars lived, but it was gradually surrounded by Russian settlements, and churches began to be built right next to the mosque.
In the 19th century, the Tatar merchant Cihanşa Ğosmanov decided to build a mosque here that looked better than the church next to it. The mosque was completed in 1868, and to honor him, people called it Ğosmanov Mosque or Cihanşa Mosque.
At first, the walls of the mosque were red, so it was also called the Red Mosque. Now the mosque is called Soltan Mosque to honor Zigansha's son, Sultan Abdulgaziz Usmanov, who continued to look after the local community after his father passed away.
The mosque closed in 1931, and later the minaret was destroyed. It became an architectural monument in 1980. The minaret was rebuilt in 1990, and the mosque reopened in 1994.
Bornay (Burnaevskaya) Mosque was built in 1872 with funds donated by the Tatar merchant Mukhametsadyk Burnayev, and the architect was Peter Romanov.
The mosque is located in the Old Tatar neighborhood behind Kaban Lake. In 1799, the Tatar merchant Salikh Mustafin built a wooden mosque here. The mosque was first built for students at the Apanaev madrasa, and later, local residents began using it too. Unfortunately, the mosque was later destroyed in a fire. In 1872, Tatar merchant Mukhametsadyk Burnayev donated money to build the current brick mosque on the site of the burned-down wooden one, and it was named after him.
The mosque features a national romantic eclectic style, blending Russian and Tatar architectural decorations. In 1895, shortly before Burnayev passed away, a magnificent minaret was built based on designs by architects Fyodor Malinovsky and Lev Khrshonovich.
The mosque closed in 1930, but fortunately, the minaret was preserved. It reopened in 1994.
The Azimov Mosque was built between 1887 and 1890 with donations from Tatar merchant Mortaza Äcimev. The mosque was built in a national romantic eclectic style and is known as the most beautiful mosque in Kazan.
The mosque is located in an area called Pleten (wicker fence), situated between the Old Tatar and New Tatar neighborhoods. In 1851, Tatar merchant Mustafa Azimov built a wooden mosque here. Between 1887 and 1890, his son Murtaza Azimov donated funds to build the current brick mosque, which was named after them. Because many Muslim workers from soap factories lived in the Pleten area, it is also called Zavodskaya (factory mosque).
The mosque closed in 1930 and was used as a school. It was returned to the Muslims in 1989 and reopened in 1992.
The Zakabannaya Mosque, also known as the Mosque of the 1000th Anniversary of the Adoption of Islam, was built between 1924 and 1926 to commemorate the 1000th anniversary of the Volga Bulgars converting to Islam in 922. Stalin personally approved the construction of the mosque. It was designed by architect A. E. Pechnikov in 1914 and built with public donations.
The mosque closed in 1930 and reopened in 1991. It was the last mosque built in Kazan before Stalin ordered the closure of mosques in 1930.
Accommodation
I stayed at a traditional Tatar estate called Tatarskaya Usadba by the shore of Lake Kaban, which was originally the home of a 19th-century Tatar merchant named Khamit Sabitov. The estate offers both lodging and dining, but since I didn't book a main meal in advance, I only had breakfast, which was also in the traditional Tatar style.
Cultural Activities
I was very lucky to attend the Tatar cultural festival called the Pechen Bazaar (Pechen bazary) in Kazan. It was very lively, with various Tatar designers, poets, musicians, and filmmakers showing their work and sharing ideas.
For traditional Tatar tea, you can see ingredients like thyme, linden leaves, chamomile, oregano, mint, and sage added to the brew. I also saw an uncle toss pine cones directly into the tea stove, which made it smell wonderful.
Traditional Tatar desserts are a bit like Turkish sweets and go perfectly with tea.
Cakes made by Tatar girls.
Tatar craftspeople.
A young Tatar person is creating Arabic calligraphy on the spot using thread.
A Tatar auntie is selling headpieces for Kazan Tatar women, which are decorated with pearls and look very beautiful.
At the honey stall, the festival invited some Tatar people living in the countryside to sell their own honey, cheese, and sausages, which was also very interesting.
A stall selling traditional Tatar clothing.
An uncle who is an architect specializing in building mosques is sharing how to construct them.
A young Tatar female poet is reading her poetry.
The outfit worn by the host is the formal attire of urban Kazan Tatars from the early 20th century.
This stall is a creative brand featuring a sweet Islamic style inspired by Tatar culture.
A stall selling books about Tatar culture.
Restaurant
While in Kazan, I ate at the famous traditional Tatar restaurant Dom Tatarskoi Kulinarii (Tatar Cuisine House) on Bauman Street. The restaurant opened in 1969. It was founded by Yunus Akhmetzyanov, a Tatar food expert and author of "Dishes of Tatar cuisine," who served as the head chef until 1984.
In the evening, I ate at Teatr Natsionalnoi Kukhni, a restaurant inside another Tatar estate by Lake Kaban that was once the home of the wealthy Tatar merchant Bikmukhametov. I ordered horse meat salad, cream of pumpkin soup with dried apricots and cream cheese, and a fresh horse meat stew called Kullama. Kullama is the Tatar version of the national dish of Kazakhstan, five-finger stew (Beshbarmak).
Tubatay is a fast-food restaurant selling traditional Tatar dishes, and they also have a shop inside the ancient city of Bolghar. The name "Tubatay" refers to the traditional round cap worn by Tatar people.
I ordered steamed dumplings (Manti), a signature meat pie (Belesh) made with sour cream dough and a filling of beef, potatoes, and onions, Tatar clear soup dumplings (Pilmen) served with sour cream (Smetana), and Tatar tea.
Next to where I stayed, there was a large halal supermarket specializing in Tatar goods, with a dazzling variety of traditional Tatar desserts.
Street view
Street view of the Tatar community in Kazan
