Exploring Yixinzhai: Shanghai's Legendary Century-Old Halal Spot for Pan-Fried Beef Buns & Cold Noodles
[Internet Repost]
Dual Glory of a Time-Honored Brand and Intangible Cultural Heritage: Exploring the Legend of Shanghai Yixinzhai's Halal Cuisine and Dim Sum
Abstract:
An in-depth introduction to Yixinzhai, a famous Halal restaurant in Shanghai holding the dual titles of 'China Time-Honored Brand' and 'Municipal Intangible Cultural Heritage.' Tracing its century-old development path since its founding in 1913, this article showcases the artisan spirit of three generations of successors who have strictly adhered to Islamic dietary laws and protected intangible heritage culinary techniques.
'Yixinzhai' is a renowned China Time-Honored Brand Halal restaurant in Shanghai. Its 'Halal culinary and dim sum making technique' was inscribed on Shanghai's Intangible Cultural Heritage list—making it quite rare for a Halal restaurant in the city to hold this dual 'Time-Honored Brand + Intangible Heritage' status.
Historical records show that the history of 'Yixinzhai' dates back to 1913, when current manager Ma Wanglin's grandfather, Ma Shisheng, founded the 'Ma Ji' Halal food stall in Cao County, Shandong Province. It quickly rose to local fame thanks to delicacies like niurou jianbao (pan-fried beef buns) and curry beef. After 1938, escaping the chaos of war, Ma Shisheng moved with his son, Ma Xingbang, to Zhenjiang, Jiangsu Province, to continue the business. In the late 1940s, Ma Wanglin and his parents came to Shanghai's Yangpu District, reopening the 'Ma Ji' Halal food stall on Huangxing Road and allowing this craft to take deep root in Shanghai. In 1958, the state-run 'Yixinzhai' Halal restaurant was officially established, and 15-year-old Ma Wanglin joined his father working there. In 2000, 'Yixinzhai' underwent restructuring, and Ma Wanglin took over management.
Back in the day, whenever I had business at the Huidong Workers' Cultural Palace, I would drop by 'Yixinzhai' right across the street to enjoy their signature niurou jianbao (pan-fried beef buns), leaving me with deep impressions and fond memories. Their cold noodles are also a signature dish, and with the summer season right now, I couldn't resist. A few days ago, I drove over 20 kilometers, cutting all the way across from Changning in the western urban center to Yangpu in the east, just to come to 'Yixinzhai' and treat myself. The original location is currently undergoing renovations, so the shop has relocated to a temporary spot about 200 meters to the east. The golden signs reading 'Shanghai Yixinzhai' and 'China Time-Honored Brand' hang high above the doorway, shining brilliantly.
Looking at the menu, the food options are extensive, featuring rice bowls, fried rice, noodle dishes with various toppings, and more. I ordered the shop's signature celery and shredded beef mixed noodles (note: during the summer season, 'mixed noodles' at this shop refers to cold noodles), an order of guotie (crispy beef potstickers), and a bowl of beef soup, totaling 60 yuan.
The potstickers and mixed noodles had to be picked up from the window yourself, while the beef soup was brought to the table by a server. Knowing that potstickers need to be eaten while hot—since cooling ruins the texture—I picked up the potstickers first to enjoy them while they were hot.
There are four potstickers to an order. They are quite large, neatly arranged, crescent-shaped, plump, and gorgeous, with bottoms pan-fried to a golden-brown crisp.
The potsticker wrappers are made from unfermented dough, keeping them relatively thin and crispy. When you bite into them, you get a satisfying 'crunch' without any chewy resistance. I wasn't sure if they were slightly over-fried or if that's just how they're naturally made?! The texture is a bit different from outside potstickers. The meat filling is made from yellow beef hindquarter (knuckle), trimmed of sinew and fascia, and mixed with the Ma family's ancestral secret seasoning. It has a unique flavor with a small amount of savory juice, making it delicious.
The beef soup is quite clear, sprinkled with a generous handful of cilantro and chopped scallions that blend with the beef aroma, filling the air with fragrance. A small amount of curry is added to remove gaminess and enhance the flavor. The beef shank slices in the soup are served in a truly substantial portion, fully justifying the 20 yuan/bowl price tag. The beef is boiled until tender without falling apart, and the broth is rich, flavorful, and savory. Paired with the beef potstickers and cold noodles, it’s absolute perfection! Highly recommended.
After finishing the potstickers, I went back to the window to pick up the cold noodles and the celery and shredded beef topping.
The cold noodles are the shop's signature summer specialty. They use custom-made, narrow alkaline noodles, following the noodle-boiling mantra: 'clear water, high heat, small portion of noodles.' They are boiled over high heat for a short time, skipped the cold water rinse, and directly fan-dried and cooled by an electric fan. While being fanned, homemade scallion oil is drizzled over them and tossed. The noodles turn out chewy, springy, smooth, and not mushy. Drizzled with homemade salty-savory soy sauce and aromatic vinegar, the flavor profile is savory, aromatic, and slightly sweet. Add a spoonful of the 'soul' peanut sesame paste personally developed by Ma Wanglin (made by stir-frying and grinding 8 catties of peanuts and 2 catties of sesame seeds for an intensely rich aroma), and if you like spice, add a few drops of chili oil. When the noodles are coated in the sauce, the taste is simply indescribable.
The celery and shredded beef topping is equally stellar. The celery is very tender with no tough strings and won't get stuck in your teeth. The shredded beef is marinated in advance, velveted, and quick-fried, making it tender and flavorful. Slurping it down with the noodles is wildly satisfying and thoroughly enjoyable.
The niurou jianbao (pan-fried beef buns) are the shop's top-tier 'intangible heritage' delicacy. The prep kitchen has three large flat-bottomed iron pans where chefs take turns making the pan-fried beef buns and potstickers on the spot. The pan-fried beef buns are easily the size of an adult's fist, fried golden-brown and crispy on both sides, and burst with juice when bitten open. Highly favored by diners, thousands are sold every day, often drawing long queues.
The golden Sanhuang chicken (three-yellow chicken) uses chickens raised in Nanhui for over 90 days, first penned and then free-range for 20 days, prepared into a fully cooked baiqieji (white-cut chicken). There isn't a trace of blood between the chicken bones, and the skin is crispy, the meat firm and flavorful. It's also one of the shop's signature dishes.
After polishing off an order of potstickers, an order of cold noodles, and a bowl of beef soup, I was already full. Not wanting to miss out on the signature niurou jianbao (pan-fried beef buns) and the specialty Sanhuang chicken, I bought a large portion of the chicken and five pan-fried beef buns to take home and enjoy slowly with my family.
Dining experience: The food tastes great and has a distinct Halal character. Overall, while prices are slightly on the high side, it offers good value for money and is definitely worth a try.
Dual Glory of a Time-Honored Brand and Intangible Cultural Heritage: Exploring the Legend of Shanghai Yixinzhai's Halal Cuisine and Dim Sum
Abstract:
An in-depth introduction to Yixinzhai, a famous Halal restaurant in Shanghai holding the dual titles of 'China Time-Honored Brand' and 'Municipal Intangible Cultural Heritage.' Tracing its century-old development path since its founding in 1913, this article showcases the artisan spirit of three generations of successors who have strictly adhered to Islamic dietary laws and protected intangible heritage culinary techniques.
'Yixinzhai' is a renowned China Time-Honored Brand Halal restaurant in Shanghai. Its 'Halal culinary and dim sum making technique' was inscribed on Shanghai's Intangible Cultural Heritage list—making it quite rare for a Halal restaurant in the city to hold this dual 'Time-Honored Brand + Intangible Heritage' status.
Historical records show that the history of 'Yixinzhai' dates back to 1913, when current manager Ma Wanglin's grandfather, Ma Shisheng, founded the 'Ma Ji' Halal food stall in Cao County, Shandong Province. It quickly rose to local fame thanks to delicacies like niurou jianbao (pan-fried beef buns) and curry beef. After 1938, escaping the chaos of war, Ma Shisheng moved with his son, Ma Xingbang, to Zhenjiang, Jiangsu Province, to continue the business. In the late 1940s, Ma Wanglin and his parents came to Shanghai's Yangpu District, reopening the 'Ma Ji' Halal food stall on Huangxing Road and allowing this craft to take deep root in Shanghai. In 1958, the state-run 'Yixinzhai' Halal restaurant was officially established, and 15-year-old Ma Wanglin joined his father working there. In 2000, 'Yixinzhai' underwent restructuring, and Ma Wanglin took over management.
Back in the day, whenever I had business at the Huidong Workers' Cultural Palace, I would drop by 'Yixinzhai' right across the street to enjoy their signature niurou jianbao (pan-fried beef buns), leaving me with deep impressions and fond memories. Their cold noodles are also a signature dish, and with the summer season right now, I couldn't resist. A few days ago, I drove over 20 kilometers, cutting all the way across from Changning in the western urban center to Yangpu in the east, just to come to 'Yixinzhai' and treat myself. The original location is currently undergoing renovations, so the shop has relocated to a temporary spot about 200 meters to the east. The golden signs reading 'Shanghai Yixinzhai' and 'China Time-Honored Brand' hang high above the doorway, shining brilliantly.
Looking at the menu, the food options are extensive, featuring rice bowls, fried rice, noodle dishes with various toppings, and more. I ordered the shop's signature celery and shredded beef mixed noodles (note: during the summer season, 'mixed noodles' at this shop refers to cold noodles), an order of guotie (crispy beef potstickers), and a bowl of beef soup, totaling 60 yuan.
The potstickers and mixed noodles had to be picked up from the window yourself, while the beef soup was brought to the table by a server. Knowing that potstickers need to be eaten while hot—since cooling ruins the texture—I picked up the potstickers first to enjoy them while they were hot.
There are four potstickers to an order. They are quite large, neatly arranged, crescent-shaped, plump, and gorgeous, with bottoms pan-fried to a golden-brown crisp.
The potsticker wrappers are made from unfermented dough, keeping them relatively thin and crispy. When you bite into them, you get a satisfying 'crunch' without any chewy resistance. I wasn't sure if they were slightly over-fried or if that's just how they're naturally made?! The texture is a bit different from outside potstickers. The meat filling is made from yellow beef hindquarter (knuckle), trimmed of sinew and fascia, and mixed with the Ma family's ancestral secret seasoning. It has a unique flavor with a small amount of savory juice, making it delicious.
The beef soup is quite clear, sprinkled with a generous handful of cilantro and chopped scallions that blend with the beef aroma, filling the air with fragrance. A small amount of curry is added to remove gaminess and enhance the flavor. The beef shank slices in the soup are served in a truly substantial portion, fully justifying the 20 yuan/bowl price tag. The beef is boiled until tender without falling apart, and the broth is rich, flavorful, and savory. Paired with the beef potstickers and cold noodles, it’s absolute perfection! Highly recommended.
After finishing the potstickers, I went back to the window to pick up the cold noodles and the celery and shredded beef topping.
The cold noodles are the shop's signature summer specialty. They use custom-made, narrow alkaline noodles, following the noodle-boiling mantra: 'clear water, high heat, small portion of noodles.' They are boiled over high heat for a short time, skipped the cold water rinse, and directly fan-dried and cooled by an electric fan. While being fanned, homemade scallion oil is drizzled over them and tossed. The noodles turn out chewy, springy, smooth, and not mushy. Drizzled with homemade salty-savory soy sauce and aromatic vinegar, the flavor profile is savory, aromatic, and slightly sweet. Add a spoonful of the 'soul' peanut sesame paste personally developed by Ma Wanglin (made by stir-frying and grinding 8 catties of peanuts and 2 catties of sesame seeds for an intensely rich aroma), and if you like spice, add a few drops of chili oil. When the noodles are coated in the sauce, the taste is simply indescribable.
The celery and shredded beef topping is equally stellar. The celery is very tender with no tough strings and won't get stuck in your teeth. The shredded beef is marinated in advance, velveted, and quick-fried, making it tender and flavorful. Slurping it down with the noodles is wildly satisfying and thoroughly enjoyable.
The niurou jianbao (pan-fried beef buns) are the shop's top-tier 'intangible heritage' delicacy. The prep kitchen has three large flat-bottomed iron pans where chefs take turns making the pan-fried beef buns and potstickers on the spot. The pan-fried beef buns are easily the size of an adult's fist, fried golden-brown and crispy on both sides, and burst with juice when bitten open. Highly favored by diners, thousands are sold every day, often drawing long queues.
The golden Sanhuang chicken (three-yellow chicken) uses chickens raised in Nanhui for over 90 days, first penned and then free-range for 20 days, prepared into a fully cooked baiqieji (white-cut chicken). There isn't a trace of blood between the chicken bones, and the skin is crispy, the meat firm and flavorful. It's also one of the shop's signature dishes.
After polishing off an order of potstickers, an order of cold noodles, and a bowl of beef soup, I was already full. Not wanting to miss out on the signature niurou jianbao (pan-fried beef buns) and the specialty Sanhuang chicken, I bought a large portion of the chicken and five pan-fried beef buns to take home and enjoy slowly with my family.
Dining experience: The food tastes great and has a distinct Halal character. Overall, while prices are slightly on the high side, it offers good value for money and is definitely worth a try.
