Weishan Dali
Halal Travel Guide: Weishan, Dali — Ancient Mosques and Hui Muslim Heritage
Articles • ali2007fr posted the article • 0 comments • 68 views • 2026-05-19 02:59
Reposted from the web
Summary: Weishan in Dali, Yunnan, has old mosques and Hui Muslim communities tied to local history, mountain roads, and everyday mosque life. This account closes the 2023 Dali route with visits to ancient mosques, local streets, and community scenes while preserving the original photos and order.
On January 30, I rode an electric scooter from Xiaguan in Dali to Weishan. This is my third visit to Weishan, following trips in 2017 and 2020. My main goal was to visit several mosques I missed during my first two trips.
During my first two trips to Weishan, I visited 20 traditional mosques in Dali, 16 of which were in Weishan. I wrote about them in my article, "Twenty Traditional Mosques in Dali." This time, I visited 5 new mosques in Weishan, bringing my total to 21 traditional mosques visited in the area.
1. Xincun Mosque
2. Chenjia Mosque
3. Xishulong Mosque
4. Shangxi Lianhua Mosque
5. Xiaxi Lianhua Mosque
6. Dong Lianhua Mosque
7. Sanjiacun Mosque
Riding an electric scooter from Xiaguan in Dali to Weishan was probably the most challenging route of my Dali cycling trips. The trip there included 17 kilometers of continuous downhill riding with crosswinds. I had to keep my eyes on the road and my hands on the brakes the whole time without relaxing. Dali also has a large temperature difference between day and night in winter. It was quite cold in the mountains in the morning, but it warmed up as soon as the sun came out at noon.
I didn't dare take any photos while crossing the mountains and only took out my phone once I reached Yongjian Town. This was my third time visiting the market on Hedi Street, and it was still very lively. The Yi ethnic aunties here wore bright, colorful clothes, which looked very different from the Yi clothing I saw in the Daliang Mountains a few days ago.
Riding my scooter through the villages of Yongjian Town to visit old mosques, the pastoral scenery along the way was refreshing. However, riding on country roads sometimes leads to unexpected situations. On my way to Xincun, the furthest Hui Muslim village in Yongjian Town, the road was suddenly cut off by a small, clear river where villagers were washing clothes and shoes. I didn't have time to enjoy the scenery because I was immediately worried. Taking another route meant going all the way back, which would waste a lot of time, but I had no experience riding a bike through water and was afraid I would slip and fall into the river with my bike. After a moment of hesitation, I decided to ride into the river. My bike shot into the middle of the river, and I lost control, heading straight toward the woman who was washing her shoes by the bank. I quickly put my foot down and pushed hard to steer the bike back in the right direction.
I made it across the river, but the shoe and sock on the foot I used to steady myself were completely soaked. Luckily, the midday sun in Dali was very strong, so I let my sock dry while I kept riding, and it was dry in no time.
Xincun Mosque
I first visited Xincun Mosque, which sits on a hillside at the far northwest end of the Weishan Basin. Xincun is known as the first Hui Muslim village at the source of the Red River, with a rushing river in front and lush greenery behind, making for a beautiful setting. The founding date of Xincun Mosque is unknown; it was destroyed in 1872 (the 11th year of the Tongzhi reign), rebuilt during the Guangxu reign, and the main hall was rebuilt again in 1994. The current main hall features a double-eave hip-and-gable roof and still maintains the traditional architectural style of the Dali region.
The minaret of Xincun Mosque was rebuilt in 1988 and has a hexagonal pointed roof. The following photos show the scenery in the village.
Hardworking fellow Muslims.
Chen Family Mosque (Chenjia Si)
I rode my bike from Xincun to the Chen Family Mosque northwest of Xishulong Village. I missed this mosque when I visited Xishulong Village in 2020. The Chen Family Mosque was built by the Chen family of Xishulong Village. Its original construction date is unknown. The ancestors of the Chen family moved here from Shaanxi, settling down after several moves.
The Chen Family Mosque was rebuilt in 1902 (the 28th year of the Guangxu reign) and expanded into its current structure in 1987. It sits near the mountains and water, offering beautiful scenery.
Xishulong Mosque
I performed the noon namaz at Xishulong Mosque. I visited Xishulong Mosque once in 2020, and this is my second time here. The original construction date of Xishulong Mosque is unknown. It was rebuilt in 1902 (the 28th year of the Guangxu reign) and rebuilt again in 1990 into its current form. The main hall has a double-eaved hip-and-gable roof with a unique hexagonal pavilion in the center of the roof ridge.
Shangxi Lianhua Mosque
I rode south from Xishulong Village to Shangxi Lianhua Village to visit the Shangxi Lianhua Mosque. The original construction date of Shangxi Lianhua Mosque is unknown. It was destroyed in 1872 (the 11th year of the Tongzhi reign) and later rebuilt and expanded several times into its current structure.
Xiaxi Lianhua Mosque
I traveled from Shangxi Lianhua Mosque to Xiaxi Lianhua Mosque. The original construction date of Xiaxi Lianhua Mosque is also unknown. It was destroyed in 1872 (the 11th year of the Tongzhi reign), rebuilt in 1925, and later rebuilt again into its current structure.
Dong Lianhua Mosque
I traveled from Xiaxi Lotus Mosque (Xiaxi Lianhua Si) to Donglianhua Village, the best-preserved village in Weishan. I visited three Ma family courtyards, which I wrote about in 'The Three Hui Muslim Caravan Courtyards of Donglianhua Village, Weishan, Dali,' and then I visited the Donglianhua Mosque.
Donglianhua Mosque was first built during the Qing Dynasty and was expanded twice, in 1921 and 1987. The mosque layout runs from east to west, featuring the main gate, the minaret, and the main prayer hall (Chaozhen Dian). The minaret divides the courtyard into two sections.
The minaret was raised to four stories in 1987, following a five-five-three-one structural design. The first three floors serve as classrooms for holiday study groups, while the fourth floor is where the adhan is called.
The main prayer hall was expanded in 1921 into a five-bay by seven-bay structure, and it was expanded again in 1987 into a nine-bay by eleven-bay structure. The mihrab features traditional Arabic calligraphy in the classic Yunnan style.
In front of the main prayer hall hangs a plaque inscribed with 'Cheng Yi Bu Er' (Sincerity is Unique), which was presented by Major General Yang Shengqi in 1926. General Yang Shengqi was close friends with Ma Ruji, a major caravan leader in Donglianhua. In 1926, he traveled from Kunming to visit Ma Ruji in Donglianhua and presented this plaque to the mosque.
Sanjia Village Mosque
Finally, I visited the Sanjia Village Mosque. Sanjia Village was originally called Saijia Village. The Sai family were descendants of Masuh, the fifth son of Sayyid Ajjal Shams al-Din Omar. They moved from Daweigeng and Xiaweigeng villages in the mid-Ming Dynasty to establish Saijia Village. Later, many Hui Muslims with other surnames moved here, making it one of the larger Hui Muslim villages in the Yongjian Basin. During the Tongzhi reign, the entire village of over 3,500 people was killed. Later, three families returned to settle here, so the name was changed to Sanjia (Three Families) Village.
The current main prayer hall of the Sanjia Village Mosque was rebuilt in 1997, and from the top, you can look out over the scenery of the Yongjian Basin. The setting sun shone down, making the Yongjian Basin glow with a beautiful golden light. view all
Summary: Weishan in Dali, Yunnan, has old mosques and Hui Muslim communities tied to local history, mountain roads, and everyday mosque life. This account closes the 2023 Dali route with visits to ancient mosques, local streets, and community scenes while preserving the original photos and order.
On January 30, I rode an electric scooter from Xiaguan in Dali to Weishan. This is my third visit to Weishan, following trips in 2017 and 2020. My main goal was to visit several mosques I missed during my first two trips.
During my first two trips to Weishan, I visited 20 traditional mosques in Dali, 16 of which were in Weishan. I wrote about them in my article, "Twenty Traditional Mosques in Dali." This time, I visited 5 new mosques in Weishan, bringing my total to 21 traditional mosques visited in the area.
1. Xincun Mosque
2. Chenjia Mosque
3. Xishulong Mosque
4. Shangxi Lianhua Mosque
5. Xiaxi Lianhua Mosque
6. Dong Lianhua Mosque
7. Sanjiacun Mosque
Riding an electric scooter from Xiaguan in Dali to Weishan was probably the most challenging route of my Dali cycling trips. The trip there included 17 kilometers of continuous downhill riding with crosswinds. I had to keep my eyes on the road and my hands on the brakes the whole time without relaxing. Dali also has a large temperature difference between day and night in winter. It was quite cold in the mountains in the morning, but it warmed up as soon as the sun came out at noon.
I didn't dare take any photos while crossing the mountains and only took out my phone once I reached Yongjian Town. This was my third time visiting the market on Hedi Street, and it was still very lively. The Yi ethnic aunties here wore bright, colorful clothes, which looked very different from the Yi clothing I saw in the Daliang Mountains a few days ago.
Riding my scooter through the villages of Yongjian Town to visit old mosques, the pastoral scenery along the way was refreshing. However, riding on country roads sometimes leads to unexpected situations. On my way to Xincun, the furthest Hui Muslim village in Yongjian Town, the road was suddenly cut off by a small, clear river where villagers were washing clothes and shoes. I didn't have time to enjoy the scenery because I was immediately worried. Taking another route meant going all the way back, which would waste a lot of time, but I had no experience riding a bike through water and was afraid I would slip and fall into the river with my bike. After a moment of hesitation, I decided to ride into the river. My bike shot into the middle of the river, and I lost control, heading straight toward the woman who was washing her shoes by the bank. I quickly put my foot down and pushed hard to steer the bike back in the right direction.
I made it across the river, but the shoe and sock on the foot I used to steady myself were completely soaked. Luckily, the midday sun in Dali was very strong, so I let my sock dry while I kept riding, and it was dry in no time.
Xincun Mosque
I first visited Xincun Mosque, which sits on a hillside at the far northwest end of the Weishan Basin. Xincun is known as the first Hui Muslim village at the source of the Red River, with a rushing river in front and lush greenery behind, making for a beautiful setting. The founding date of Xincun Mosque is unknown; it was destroyed in 1872 (the 11th year of the Tongzhi reign), rebuilt during the Guangxu reign, and the main hall was rebuilt again in 1994. The current main hall features a double-eave hip-and-gable roof and still maintains the traditional architectural style of the Dali region.
The minaret of Xincun Mosque was rebuilt in 1988 and has a hexagonal pointed roof. The following photos show the scenery in the village.
Hardworking fellow Muslims.
Chen Family Mosque (Chenjia Si)
I rode my bike from Xincun to the Chen Family Mosque northwest of Xishulong Village. I missed this mosque when I visited Xishulong Village in 2020. The Chen Family Mosque was built by the Chen family of Xishulong Village. Its original construction date is unknown. The ancestors of the Chen family moved here from Shaanxi, settling down after several moves.
The Chen Family Mosque was rebuilt in 1902 (the 28th year of the Guangxu reign) and expanded into its current structure in 1987. It sits near the mountains and water, offering beautiful scenery.
Xishulong Mosque
I performed the noon namaz at Xishulong Mosque. I visited Xishulong Mosque once in 2020, and this is my second time here. The original construction date of Xishulong Mosque is unknown. It was rebuilt in 1902 (the 28th year of the Guangxu reign) and rebuilt again in 1990 into its current form. The main hall has a double-eaved hip-and-gable roof with a unique hexagonal pavilion in the center of the roof ridge.
Shangxi Lianhua Mosque
I rode south from Xishulong Village to Shangxi Lianhua Village to visit the Shangxi Lianhua Mosque. The original construction date of Shangxi Lianhua Mosque is unknown. It was destroyed in 1872 (the 11th year of the Tongzhi reign) and later rebuilt and expanded several times into its current structure.
Xiaxi Lianhua Mosque
I traveled from Shangxi Lianhua Mosque to Xiaxi Lianhua Mosque. The original construction date of Xiaxi Lianhua Mosque is also unknown. It was destroyed in 1872 (the 11th year of the Tongzhi reign), rebuilt in 1925, and later rebuilt again into its current structure.
Dong Lianhua Mosque
I traveled from Xiaxi Lotus Mosque (Xiaxi Lianhua Si) to Donglianhua Village, the best-preserved village in Weishan. I visited three Ma family courtyards, which I wrote about in 'The Three Hui Muslim Caravan Courtyards of Donglianhua Village, Weishan, Dali,' and then I visited the Donglianhua Mosque.
Donglianhua Mosque was first built during the Qing Dynasty and was expanded twice, in 1921 and 1987. The mosque layout runs from east to west, featuring the main gate, the minaret, and the main prayer hall (Chaozhen Dian). The minaret divides the courtyard into two sections.
The minaret was raised to four stories in 1987, following a five-five-three-one structural design. The first three floors serve as classrooms for holiday study groups, while the fourth floor is where the adhan is called.
The main prayer hall was expanded in 1921 into a five-bay by seven-bay structure, and it was expanded again in 1987 into a nine-bay by eleven-bay structure. The mihrab features traditional Arabic calligraphy in the classic Yunnan style.
In front of the main prayer hall hangs a plaque inscribed with 'Cheng Yi Bu Er' (Sincerity is Unique), which was presented by Major General Yang Shengqi in 1926. General Yang Shengqi was close friends with Ma Ruji, a major caravan leader in Donglianhua. In 1926, he traveled from Kunming to visit Ma Ruji in Donglianhua and presented this plaque to the mosque.
Sanjia Village Mosque
Finally, I visited the Sanjia Village Mosque. Sanjia Village was originally called Saijia Village. The Sai family were descendants of Masuh, the fifth son of Sayyid Ajjal Shams al-Din Omar. They moved from Daweigeng and Xiaweigeng villages in the mid-Ming Dynasty to establish Saijia Village. Later, many Hui Muslims with other surnames moved here, making it one of the larger Hui Muslim villages in the Yongjian Basin. During the Tongzhi reign, the entire village of over 3,500 people was killed. Later, three families returned to settle here, so the name was changed to Sanjia (Three Families) Village.
The current main prayer hall of the Sanjia Village Mosque was rebuilt in 1997, and from the top, you can look out over the scenery of the Yongjian Basin. The setting sun shone down, making the Yongjian Basin glow with a beautiful golden light. view all
Reposted from the web
Summary: Weishan in Dali, Yunnan, has old mosques and Hui Muslim communities tied to local history, mountain roads, and everyday mosque life. This account closes the 2023 Dali route with visits to ancient mosques, local streets, and community scenes while preserving the original photos and order.
On January 30, I rode an electric scooter from Xiaguan in Dali to Weishan. This is my third visit to Weishan, following trips in 2017 and 2020. My main goal was to visit several mosques I missed during my first two trips.
During my first two trips to Weishan, I visited 20 traditional mosques in Dali, 16 of which were in Weishan. I wrote about them in my article, "Twenty Traditional Mosques in Dali." This time, I visited 5 new mosques in Weishan, bringing my total to 21 traditional mosques visited in the area.
1. Xincun Mosque
2. Chenjia Mosque
3. Xishulong Mosque
4. Shangxi Lianhua Mosque
5. Xiaxi Lianhua Mosque
6. Dong Lianhua Mosque
7. Sanjiacun Mosque
Riding an electric scooter from Xiaguan in Dali to Weishan was probably the most challenging route of my Dali cycling trips. The trip there included 17 kilometers of continuous downhill riding with crosswinds. I had to keep my eyes on the road and my hands on the brakes the whole time without relaxing. Dali also has a large temperature difference between day and night in winter. It was quite cold in the mountains in the morning, but it warmed up as soon as the sun came out at noon.
I didn't dare take any photos while crossing the mountains and only took out my phone once I reached Yongjian Town. This was my third time visiting the market on Hedi Street, and it was still very lively. The Yi ethnic aunties here wore bright, colorful clothes, which looked very different from the Yi clothing I saw in the Daliang Mountains a few days ago.
Riding my scooter through the villages of Yongjian Town to visit old mosques, the pastoral scenery along the way was refreshing. However, riding on country roads sometimes leads to unexpected situations. On my way to Xincun, the furthest Hui Muslim village in Yongjian Town, the road was suddenly cut off by a small, clear river where villagers were washing clothes and shoes. I didn't have time to enjoy the scenery because I was immediately worried. Taking another route meant going all the way back, which would waste a lot of time, but I had no experience riding a bike through water and was afraid I would slip and fall into the river with my bike. After a moment of hesitation, I decided to ride into the river. My bike shot into the middle of the river, and I lost control, heading straight toward the woman who was washing her shoes by the bank. I quickly put my foot down and pushed hard to steer the bike back in the right direction.
I made it across the river, but the shoe and sock on the foot I used to steady myself were completely soaked. Luckily, the midday sun in Dali was very strong, so I let my sock dry while I kept riding, and it was dry in no time.
Xincun Mosque
I first visited Xincun Mosque, which sits on a hillside at the far northwest end of the Weishan Basin. Xincun is known as the first Hui Muslim village at the source of the Red River, with a rushing river in front and lush greenery behind, making for a beautiful setting. The founding date of Xincun Mosque is unknown; it was destroyed in 1872 (the 11th year of the Tongzhi reign), rebuilt during the Guangxu reign, and the main hall was rebuilt again in 1994. The current main hall features a double-eave hip-and-gable roof and still maintains the traditional architectural style of the Dali region.
The minaret of Xincun Mosque was rebuilt in 1988 and has a hexagonal pointed roof. The following photos show the scenery in the village.
Hardworking fellow Muslims.
Chen Family Mosque (Chenjia Si)
I rode my bike from Xincun to the Chen Family Mosque northwest of Xishulong Village. I missed this mosque when I visited Xishulong Village in 2020. The Chen Family Mosque was built by the Chen family of Xishulong Village. Its original construction date is unknown. The ancestors of the Chen family moved here from Shaanxi, settling down after several moves.
The Chen Family Mosque was rebuilt in 1902 (the 28th year of the Guangxu reign) and expanded into its current structure in 1987. It sits near the mountains and water, offering beautiful scenery.
Xishulong Mosque
I performed the noon namaz at Xishulong Mosque. I visited Xishulong Mosque once in 2020, and this is my second time here. The original construction date of Xishulong Mosque is unknown. It was rebuilt in 1902 (the 28th year of the Guangxu reign) and rebuilt again in 1990 into its current form. The main hall has a double-eaved hip-and-gable roof with a unique hexagonal pavilion in the center of the roof ridge.
Shangxi Lianhua Mosque
I rode south from Xishulong Village to Shangxi Lianhua Village to visit the Shangxi Lianhua Mosque. The original construction date of Shangxi Lianhua Mosque is unknown. It was destroyed in 1872 (the 11th year of the Tongzhi reign) and later rebuilt and expanded several times into its current structure.
Xiaxi Lianhua Mosque
I traveled from Shangxi Lianhua Mosque to Xiaxi Lianhua Mosque. The original construction date of Xiaxi Lianhua Mosque is also unknown. It was destroyed in 1872 (the 11th year of the Tongzhi reign), rebuilt in 1925, and later rebuilt again into its current structure.
Dong Lianhua Mosque
I traveled from Xiaxi Lotus Mosque (Xiaxi Lianhua Si) to Donglianhua Village, the best-preserved village in Weishan. I visited three Ma family courtyards, which I wrote about in 'The Three Hui Muslim Caravan Courtyards of Donglianhua Village, Weishan, Dali,' and then I visited the Donglianhua Mosque.
Donglianhua Mosque was first built during the Qing Dynasty and was expanded twice, in 1921 and 1987. The mosque layout runs from east to west, featuring the main gate, the minaret, and the main prayer hall (Chaozhen Dian). The minaret divides the courtyard into two sections.
The minaret was raised to four stories in 1987, following a five-five-three-one structural design. The first three floors serve as classrooms for holiday study groups, while the fourth floor is where the adhan is called.
The main prayer hall was expanded in 1921 into a five-bay by seven-bay structure, and it was expanded again in 1987 into a nine-bay by eleven-bay structure. The mihrab features traditional Arabic calligraphy in the classic Yunnan style.
In front of the main prayer hall hangs a plaque inscribed with 'Cheng Yi Bu Er' (Sincerity is Unique), which was presented by Major General Yang Shengqi in 1926. General Yang Shengqi was close friends with Ma Ruji, a major caravan leader in Donglianhua. In 1926, he traveled from Kunming to visit Ma Ruji in Donglianhua and presented this plaque to the mosque.
Sanjia Village Mosque
Finally, I visited the Sanjia Village Mosque. Sanjia Village was originally called Saijia Village. The Sai family were descendants of Masuh, the fifth son of Sayyid Ajjal Shams al-Din Omar. They moved from Daweigeng and Xiaweigeng villages in the mid-Ming Dynasty to establish Saijia Village. Later, many Hui Muslims with other surnames moved here, making it one of the larger Hui Muslim villages in the Yongjian Basin. During the Tongzhi reign, the entire village of over 3,500 people was killed. Later, three families returned to settle here, so the name was changed to Sanjia (Three Families) Village.
The current main prayer hall of the Sanjia Village Mosque was rebuilt in 1997, and from the top, you can look out over the scenery of the Yongjian Basin. The setting sun shone down, making the Yongjian Basin glow with a beautiful golden light.
Summary: Weishan in Dali, Yunnan, has old mosques and Hui Muslim communities tied to local history, mountain roads, and everyday mosque life. This account closes the 2023 Dali route with visits to ancient mosques, local streets, and community scenes while preserving the original photos and order.
On January 30, I rode an electric scooter from Xiaguan in Dali to Weishan. This is my third visit to Weishan, following trips in 2017 and 2020. My main goal was to visit several mosques I missed during my first two trips.
During my first two trips to Weishan, I visited 20 traditional mosques in Dali, 16 of which were in Weishan. I wrote about them in my article, "Twenty Traditional Mosques in Dali." This time, I visited 5 new mosques in Weishan, bringing my total to 21 traditional mosques visited in the area.
1. Xincun Mosque
2. Chenjia Mosque
3. Xishulong Mosque
4. Shangxi Lianhua Mosque
5. Xiaxi Lianhua Mosque
6. Dong Lianhua Mosque
7. Sanjiacun Mosque
Riding an electric scooter from Xiaguan in Dali to Weishan was probably the most challenging route of my Dali cycling trips. The trip there included 17 kilometers of continuous downhill riding with crosswinds. I had to keep my eyes on the road and my hands on the brakes the whole time without relaxing. Dali also has a large temperature difference between day and night in winter. It was quite cold in the mountains in the morning, but it warmed up as soon as the sun came out at noon.
I didn't dare take any photos while crossing the mountains and only took out my phone once I reached Yongjian Town. This was my third time visiting the market on Hedi Street, and it was still very lively. The Yi ethnic aunties here wore bright, colorful clothes, which looked very different from the Yi clothing I saw in the Daliang Mountains a few days ago.
Riding my scooter through the villages of Yongjian Town to visit old mosques, the pastoral scenery along the way was refreshing. However, riding on country roads sometimes leads to unexpected situations. On my way to Xincun, the furthest Hui Muslim village in Yongjian Town, the road was suddenly cut off by a small, clear river where villagers were washing clothes and shoes. I didn't have time to enjoy the scenery because I was immediately worried. Taking another route meant going all the way back, which would waste a lot of time, but I had no experience riding a bike through water and was afraid I would slip and fall into the river with my bike. After a moment of hesitation, I decided to ride into the river. My bike shot into the middle of the river, and I lost control, heading straight toward the woman who was washing her shoes by the bank. I quickly put my foot down and pushed hard to steer the bike back in the right direction.
I made it across the river, but the shoe and sock on the foot I used to steady myself were completely soaked. Luckily, the midday sun in Dali was very strong, so I let my sock dry while I kept riding, and it was dry in no time.
Xincun Mosque
I first visited Xincun Mosque, which sits on a hillside at the far northwest end of the Weishan Basin. Xincun is known as the first Hui Muslim village at the source of the Red River, with a rushing river in front and lush greenery behind, making for a beautiful setting. The founding date of Xincun Mosque is unknown; it was destroyed in 1872 (the 11th year of the Tongzhi reign), rebuilt during the Guangxu reign, and the main hall was rebuilt again in 1994. The current main hall features a double-eave hip-and-gable roof and still maintains the traditional architectural style of the Dali region.
The minaret of Xincun Mosque was rebuilt in 1988 and has a hexagonal pointed roof. The following photos show the scenery in the village.
Hardworking fellow Muslims.
Chen Family Mosque (Chenjia Si)
I rode my bike from Xincun to the Chen Family Mosque northwest of Xishulong Village. I missed this mosque when I visited Xishulong Village in 2020. The Chen Family Mosque was built by the Chen family of Xishulong Village. Its original construction date is unknown. The ancestors of the Chen family moved here from Shaanxi, settling down after several moves.
The Chen Family Mosque was rebuilt in 1902 (the 28th year of the Guangxu reign) and expanded into its current structure in 1987. It sits near the mountains and water, offering beautiful scenery.
Xishulong Mosque
I performed the noon namaz at Xishulong Mosque. I visited Xishulong Mosque once in 2020, and this is my second time here. The original construction date of Xishulong Mosque is unknown. It was rebuilt in 1902 (the 28th year of the Guangxu reign) and rebuilt again in 1990 into its current form. The main hall has a double-eaved hip-and-gable roof with a unique hexagonal pavilion in the center of the roof ridge.
Shangxi Lianhua Mosque
I rode south from Xishulong Village to Shangxi Lianhua Village to visit the Shangxi Lianhua Mosque. The original construction date of Shangxi Lianhua Mosque is unknown. It was destroyed in 1872 (the 11th year of the Tongzhi reign) and later rebuilt and expanded several times into its current structure.
Xiaxi Lianhua Mosque
I traveled from Shangxi Lianhua Mosque to Xiaxi Lianhua Mosque. The original construction date of Xiaxi Lianhua Mosque is also unknown. It was destroyed in 1872 (the 11th year of the Tongzhi reign), rebuilt in 1925, and later rebuilt again into its current structure.
Dong Lianhua Mosque
I traveled from Xiaxi Lotus Mosque (Xiaxi Lianhua Si) to Donglianhua Village, the best-preserved village in Weishan. I visited three Ma family courtyards, which I wrote about in 'The Three Hui Muslim Caravan Courtyards of Donglianhua Village, Weishan, Dali,' and then I visited the Donglianhua Mosque.
Donglianhua Mosque was first built during the Qing Dynasty and was expanded twice, in 1921 and 1987. The mosque layout runs from east to west, featuring the main gate, the minaret, and the main prayer hall (Chaozhen Dian). The minaret divides the courtyard into two sections.
The minaret was raised to four stories in 1987, following a five-five-three-one structural design. The first three floors serve as classrooms for holiday study groups, while the fourth floor is where the adhan is called.
The main prayer hall was expanded in 1921 into a five-bay by seven-bay structure, and it was expanded again in 1987 into a nine-bay by eleven-bay structure. The mihrab features traditional Arabic calligraphy in the classic Yunnan style.
In front of the main prayer hall hangs a plaque inscribed with 'Cheng Yi Bu Er' (Sincerity is Unique), which was presented by Major General Yang Shengqi in 1926. General Yang Shengqi was close friends with Ma Ruji, a major caravan leader in Donglianhua. In 1926, he traveled from Kunming to visit Ma Ruji in Donglianhua and presented this plaque to the mosque.
Sanjia Village Mosque
Finally, I visited the Sanjia Village Mosque. Sanjia Village was originally called Saijia Village. The Sai family were descendants of Masuh, the fifth son of Sayyid Ajjal Shams al-Din Omar. They moved from Daweigeng and Xiaweigeng villages in the mid-Ming Dynasty to establish Saijia Village. Later, many Hui Muslims with other surnames moved here, making it one of the larger Hui Muslim villages in the Yongjian Basin. During the Tongzhi reign, the entire village of over 3,500 people was killed. Later, three families returned to settle here, so the name was changed to Sanjia (Three Families) Village.
The current main prayer hall of the Sanjia Village Mosque was rebuilt in 1997, and from the top, you can look out over the scenery of the Yongjian Basin. The setting sun shone down, making the Yongjian Basin glow with a beautiful golden light.
Halal Travel Guide: Weishan, Dali — Donglianhua Hui Caravan Courtyards (Part 1)
Articles • ali2007fr posted the article • 0 comments • 75 views • 2026-05-18 22:05
Reposted from the web
Summary: Weishan, Dali — Donglianhua Hui Caravan Courtyards (Part 1) is presented here as a firsthand travel account in clear English, beginning with this scene: On the afternoon of January 30, 2023, I rode my electric scooter to Donglianhua Village in Weishan, Dali, to visit the three Hui Muslim caravan courtyards there for the second time. The account keeps its focus on Weishan Dali, Hui Caravan Courtyards, Muslim Travel while preserving the names, places, food, and historical details from the Chinese source.
On the afternoon of January 30, 2023, I rode my electric scooter to Donglianhua Village in Weishan, Dali, to visit the three Hui Muslim caravan courtyards there for the second time. In 2017, I focused on visiting the Ma Ruji Courtyard, took a quick look around the Ma Ruqi Courtyard, but could not get into the Ma Ruqing Courtyard, which left me wanting more. At that time, I hoped to have a meal in one of the courtyards and chat with the descendants of the Ma family, and this time, that wish finally came true.
After the Ming Dynasty took control of Yunnan, Zhu Yuanzhang ordered Mu Ying to guard the region. Mu Ying sent some Hui Muslim soldiers under his command to farm in Weishan, Dali. They merged with the Semu people who had come there to trade during the Yuan Dynasty, forming many Hui Muslim villages around Yongjian Town. Donglianhua Village is now mainly home to residents with the surnames Ma and Zhang. The Ma family is known as the Sai family Ma, said to be descendants of Masuhu, the fifth son of the Yuan Dynasty politician Sayyid Ajjal Shams al-Din. The Zhang family are descendants of Hui Muslims from the Jiangnan region who settled there after following Mu Ying during the Ming Dynasty.
Donglianhua Village sits on the main route of the Ancient Tea Horse Road from Pu'er to Dali. Because the local Hui Muslims were skilled at raising horses, they started the business of running horse caravans. Around 1911, ten brothers from the Ma family in Donglianhua, including Ma Ruji, Ma Ruqi, and Ma Ruqing, began trading with horse caravans and gradually became famous caravan leaders (maguotou) in Southwest China. During the Republic of China era, almost every family in Donglianhua Village raised horses. The village had seven large horse caravans and frequent trade traffic, earning it the nickname Little Shanghai of Western Yunnan. In the 1940s, the Ma brothers' business reached its peak, and they competed to build exquisite Ma family courtyards.
After the 1940s, due to frequent caravan trade with Thailand and Myanmar, some people from Donglianhua Village began to settle in those countries, making Donglianhua a famous hometown for overseas Chinese in Yunnan. These overseas residents and their descendants have continuously donated money to protect the village and have made great contributions to Donglianhua.
Ma Ruqi Courtyard
Among the three Ma family courtyards in Donglianhua Village, only the Ma Ruqi Courtyard is still occupied by descendants of the Ma family today. They have opened a restaurant and a guesthouse there, which I think is a great starting point for understanding the modern history of Yunnan's Hui Muslims and caravan culture.
Uncle Ma Wenhong, a descendant of Ma Ruqi, welcomed me warmly. He prepared braised beef and white-cut chicken from the traditional Weishan Hui Muslim banquet known as the Eight Old Bowls (laobawan), as well as sticky rice with sugar, which is only eaten at local weddings. I felt very grateful (shukr).
I listened to Uncle Ma tell the history of the Ma Ruqi Courtyard while we ate. After the Tongzhi era disasters, a group of Hui Muslims with the surname Ma who survived moved from Xiaodonglianhua Village to the current Donglianhua Village. They rebuilt their homes together with a group of Hui Muslims with the surname Zhang who came with them, and Donglianhua Village gradually developed.
In the early years of the Republic of China, Ma Ruqi started his horse-trading business. After more than 20 years of hard work, he became a famous caravan leader (maguotou) in Sichuan, Guizhou, and Yunnan. The 1940s were the peak of the Ma brothers' business. Construction of the Ma Ruqi Courtyard began in 1942 and was officially completed in 1945 after three years.
The Ma Ruqi Courtyard consists of two typical Dali-style three-sided courtyards with a screen wall (sanfang yizhaobi). Both courtyards share one large screen wall, creating a layout of one screen wall for two courtyards. The southern building is a three-story stable with a watchtower, which looks very impressive. The main gate is a relief-carved archway without a porch. The brick pillars on both sides are topped with stone lions, common in Bai ethnic homes. The arch is decorated with colorful paintings of flowers, birds, and landscapes, and the words Qilu are written in the center of the gate.
Ma Ruqi was a major caravan leader in Donglianhua Village. The north courtyard was home to Ma Ruqi's family, while the south courtyard was used to run the caravan business. The southern stable was used to feed the horses, the side rooms provided living space for the caravan workers (majiaozi), and the east side room served as a storage area for supplies. Because the courtyard is located at the southernmost end of Donglianhua Village, right next to the main road into the village, and has a wide view to the southeast, a watchtower was built on the third floor of the southern stable to keep watch and guard against bandits and horse thieves.
In August 1945, Wang Shaoheng led more than 30 bandits to rob Donglianhua Village, and the watchtower of the caravan courtyard played an important role. At that time, the Ma brothers organized the villagers to fight off the bandits, and Ma Ruqi shot and killed the bandit leader Wang Shaoheng. Afterward, the magistrate of Menghua County personally came to Donglianhua Village to commend the Ma brothers.
Architectural details and the guesthouse section of the Ma Ruqi Courtyard. Business at the courtyard was poor from 2020 to 2022, and it was basically half-closed. It has only started to get better this year. Uncle Ma says he will also make further improvements to the guesthouse to welcome more guests.
Since Ma Zaixing went on Hajj in 1948, becoming the first from Menghua to do so, many others from the Ma family, including Ma Ruqi, Ma Ruxiang, and Ma Wenhan, have also made the pilgrimage. Because of this, the Ma family is known as a family that has kept the faith for three generations of Hajj pilgrims (haji).
Today, souvenirs from Ma Wenhan Haji's three pilgrimages still hang on the walls of the Ma Ruqi Courtyard, where you can see traditional Arabic calligraphy in the style of Weishan, Dali. other parts of the Ma Ruqi Courtyard also reflect the traditions of the faith. For example, one door frame has a couplet that reads: The spring breeze is boundless, bringing joy to all the land; the Lord's grace is vast, continuing through the generations. The horizontal scroll reads: Always remember the Lord's grace. As you enter the main gate, you will see a Chinese translation of the Al-Fatiha on the wall.
Beyond religious traditions, the Ma Ruqi Courtyard also keeps old items from the caravan era, including saddles, horse lanterns, and small scales (dengzi).
In the early 1950s, Ma Ruqi went to Myanmar to make a living, and after 1954 he settled in Chiang Mai, Thailand, where he worked in the local produce business and supported public welfare. He and his fellow Weishan native Hu Ranmao founded the Shandi Chinese School in Chiang Mai and helped renovate the Chiang Mai Wanghe Mosque. In 1974, Ma Ruqi was appointed president of the Thai-Chinese Chamber of Commerce. He later hosted many important guests from China and led the first delegation of Thai-Chinese to visit China for a tour in 1979. In 1987, when the Donglianhua Mosque was expanded, Ma Ruqi donated 1 million Thai baht.
After Ma Ruqi went abroad, the Ma Ruqi Courtyard was nationalized in the 1950s. His wife, Ma Huancai, who stayed in their hometown, remained devoted to her faith, managed the household, raised their son, and lived with her son Ma Wenhan. Ma Wenhan inherited the fine traditions of his elders; he was hardworking, frugal, kind, and passionate about public welfare. In 1993, following a change in policy, the Ma Ruqi Courtyard was finally returned to Ma Wenhan. After Ma Wenhan renovated the courtyard, he was able to spend his later years there.
Today, the courtyard has passed to Ma Wenhan's son, Ma Yunhong, who opened a restaurant and guesthouse inside so that guests can better understand and experience the local culture.
Ma Ruqing Courtyard
Built in 1945, the Ma Ruqing Courtyard consists of two watchtowers and three courtyards. At the main gate stands a three-story hexagonal watchtower, with a passageway on the ground floor. The east courtyard has a three-room-and-a-screen-wall (sanfang yizhaobi) layout, the west courtyard has a four-sided-enclosure-with-five-courtyards (sihe wutianjing) layout, and the middle courtyard serves as a garden, enclosed by the east and west halls and the north watchtower.
After Ma Ruqing followed his brothers Ma Ruji and Ma Ruqi to settle in Thailand in the 1950s, the Ma Ruqing Courtyard was nationalized. Today, the west courtyard remains public property, while the middle and east courtyards were bought by local Hui Muslims. When I first visited in 2017, I could not enter the courtyard because it was under renovation. This time, a friend (dosti) living in the middle courtyard led me inside to visit the west courtyard. According to the dosti, Donglianhua Village recently cleared and restored the west courtyard, removing parts added after the 1950s. It is not yet decided when it will open to the public.
In the middle courtyard of the Ma Ruqing compound, you can see a three-story watchtower right at the entrance, which was once where the Ma family received guests. One regret this time was that the people in the east courtyard were not home, so I could not go in. It looks like I will have to visit a third time.
Ma Ruji Compound
Built in 1941, the Ma Ruji compound is the most important Hui Muslim courtyard in Weishan and a witness to the prosperity of the Yunnan horse caravans (mabang). Ma Ruji was born in Donglianhua Village in 1897. He was the eldest of ten Ma brothers, so he was also called Uncle Ma (Ma Daye). In the late Republic of China era, Ma Ruji was the most famous local caravan leader (maguotou). He also served as a Menghua (Weishan) County councilor and head of Yongji Township (Yongjian Town), making him very wealthy and influential.
The Ma Ruji compound consists of three interconnected courtyards: the north, south, and west. The north and south courtyards were Ma Ruji's residence. They combine the traditional Dali architectural styles of a four-sided courtyard with five patios (sihe wutianjing) and a three-room layout with a screen wall (sanfang yizhaobi) to form a six-courtyard harmony (liuhe tongchun) layout.
Inside the main gate of the north and south courtyards, the screen wall (yingbi) is inscribed with the words "Forever Uphold the Pure Truth" (shishou qingzhen). This is the main difference between the traditional courtyards of the local Bai people and the Hui Muslims.
Visiting the Ma Ruji compound in 2017 and 2023, the biggest change is that the Arabic calligraphy unique to Weishan, Dali, which was on display indoors, has been replaced entirely by Chinese calligraphy. The original Arabic calligraphy had both exquisite artistic value and precious historical significance. These calligraphic works were presented to Ma Ruji in the autumn of 1945 by the then-Army General Bai Chongxi and the Menghua County Hui Muslim Anti-Japanese National Salvation Association.
In the 1930s, Long Yun selected caravan leaders (maguotou) from across the province to form the Long family horse caravan for trade with French merchants in Vietnam, and Ma Ruji was chosen to join. The Long family caravan traveled from Kunming through Baise and Guilin to trade in Vietnam. Once, while passing through Guilin, they happened to run into Bai Chongxi, who was celebrating his mother's birthday. Ma Ruji and his group were all invited as guests and received a warm welcome from Bai Chongxi, and from then on, Ma Ruji and Bai Chongxi became friends.
Above the east side room of the hall in the Ma Ruji courtyard stands a four-story watchtower. It serves for both keeping watch and enjoying the view, offering a full look at Donglianhua Village. The sunny photos were taken in 2023, and the cloudy ones were taken in 2017.
The murals in the Ma Ruji courtyard from different historical periods reflect the changes of the times.
In the early 1950s, Ma Ruji and several brothers went to northern Myanmar to make a living, and they settled in Thailand a few years later. In 1953, the Ma brothers and their fellow villager Hu Ranxian set out from Myanmar to perform the Hajj, becoming a Haji. After land reform, Ma Ruji's land and property in Yunnan were divided. The Ma Ruji courtyard and the back garden were taken for public use, serving as a commune, hospital, military camp, middle school, township government, and Islamic association office at different times. After 1996, the east and west rooms of the lower courtyard of the Ma Ruji compound were returned to the Ma family, while the watchtower of the upper courtyard and the back garden remained under the collective ownership of Donglianhua Village.
The west courtyard of the Ma Ruji compound was used to run the caravan business. It had its own north gate, a two-story row of 10 large horse stables, and a warehouse for caravan supplies. In the 1940s, Ma Ruji owned over 100 mules and horses and employed more than 30 caravan workers, making him very powerful.
Waist knife (yaodao).
Tools for shoeing horses.
Kerosene lamp (madeng).
The gong stick (manggun) and gong (mangluo) were used to send signals while the caravan was on the move. Experienced caravan leaders could tell which place and which family a caravan belonged to by the volume, speed, and rhythm of the gong, and they could tell if the signal meant danger, a request to pass, or a call for help.
Stirrup (madeng).
Bamboo woven bowl box (zhumiewanhe).
An exquisite saddle. view all
Summary: Weishan, Dali — Donglianhua Hui Caravan Courtyards (Part 1) is presented here as a firsthand travel account in clear English, beginning with this scene: On the afternoon of January 30, 2023, I rode my electric scooter to Donglianhua Village in Weishan, Dali, to visit the three Hui Muslim caravan courtyards there for the second time. The account keeps its focus on Weishan Dali, Hui Caravan Courtyards, Muslim Travel while preserving the names, places, food, and historical details from the Chinese source.
On the afternoon of January 30, 2023, I rode my electric scooter to Donglianhua Village in Weishan, Dali, to visit the three Hui Muslim caravan courtyards there for the second time. In 2017, I focused on visiting the Ma Ruji Courtyard, took a quick look around the Ma Ruqi Courtyard, but could not get into the Ma Ruqing Courtyard, which left me wanting more. At that time, I hoped to have a meal in one of the courtyards and chat with the descendants of the Ma family, and this time, that wish finally came true.
After the Ming Dynasty took control of Yunnan, Zhu Yuanzhang ordered Mu Ying to guard the region. Mu Ying sent some Hui Muslim soldiers under his command to farm in Weishan, Dali. They merged with the Semu people who had come there to trade during the Yuan Dynasty, forming many Hui Muslim villages around Yongjian Town. Donglianhua Village is now mainly home to residents with the surnames Ma and Zhang. The Ma family is known as the Sai family Ma, said to be descendants of Masuhu, the fifth son of the Yuan Dynasty politician Sayyid Ajjal Shams al-Din. The Zhang family are descendants of Hui Muslims from the Jiangnan region who settled there after following Mu Ying during the Ming Dynasty.
Donglianhua Village sits on the main route of the Ancient Tea Horse Road from Pu'er to Dali. Because the local Hui Muslims were skilled at raising horses, they started the business of running horse caravans. Around 1911, ten brothers from the Ma family in Donglianhua, including Ma Ruji, Ma Ruqi, and Ma Ruqing, began trading with horse caravans and gradually became famous caravan leaders (maguotou) in Southwest China. During the Republic of China era, almost every family in Donglianhua Village raised horses. The village had seven large horse caravans and frequent trade traffic, earning it the nickname Little Shanghai of Western Yunnan. In the 1940s, the Ma brothers' business reached its peak, and they competed to build exquisite Ma family courtyards.
After the 1940s, due to frequent caravan trade with Thailand and Myanmar, some people from Donglianhua Village began to settle in those countries, making Donglianhua a famous hometown for overseas Chinese in Yunnan. These overseas residents and their descendants have continuously donated money to protect the village and have made great contributions to Donglianhua.
Ma Ruqi Courtyard
Among the three Ma family courtyards in Donglianhua Village, only the Ma Ruqi Courtyard is still occupied by descendants of the Ma family today. They have opened a restaurant and a guesthouse there, which I think is a great starting point for understanding the modern history of Yunnan's Hui Muslims and caravan culture.
Uncle Ma Wenhong, a descendant of Ma Ruqi, welcomed me warmly. He prepared braised beef and white-cut chicken from the traditional Weishan Hui Muslim banquet known as the Eight Old Bowls (laobawan), as well as sticky rice with sugar, which is only eaten at local weddings. I felt very grateful (shukr).
I listened to Uncle Ma tell the history of the Ma Ruqi Courtyard while we ate. After the Tongzhi era disasters, a group of Hui Muslims with the surname Ma who survived moved from Xiaodonglianhua Village to the current Donglianhua Village. They rebuilt their homes together with a group of Hui Muslims with the surname Zhang who came with them, and Donglianhua Village gradually developed.
In the early years of the Republic of China, Ma Ruqi started his horse-trading business. After more than 20 years of hard work, he became a famous caravan leader (maguotou) in Sichuan, Guizhou, and Yunnan. The 1940s were the peak of the Ma brothers' business. Construction of the Ma Ruqi Courtyard began in 1942 and was officially completed in 1945 after three years.
The Ma Ruqi Courtyard consists of two typical Dali-style three-sided courtyards with a screen wall (sanfang yizhaobi). Both courtyards share one large screen wall, creating a layout of one screen wall for two courtyards. The southern building is a three-story stable with a watchtower, which looks very impressive. The main gate is a relief-carved archway without a porch. The brick pillars on both sides are topped with stone lions, common in Bai ethnic homes. The arch is decorated with colorful paintings of flowers, birds, and landscapes, and the words Qilu are written in the center of the gate.
Ma Ruqi was a major caravan leader in Donglianhua Village. The north courtyard was home to Ma Ruqi's family, while the south courtyard was used to run the caravan business. The southern stable was used to feed the horses, the side rooms provided living space for the caravan workers (majiaozi), and the east side room served as a storage area for supplies. Because the courtyard is located at the southernmost end of Donglianhua Village, right next to the main road into the village, and has a wide view to the southeast, a watchtower was built on the third floor of the southern stable to keep watch and guard against bandits and horse thieves.
In August 1945, Wang Shaoheng led more than 30 bandits to rob Donglianhua Village, and the watchtower of the caravan courtyard played an important role. At that time, the Ma brothers organized the villagers to fight off the bandits, and Ma Ruqi shot and killed the bandit leader Wang Shaoheng. Afterward, the magistrate of Menghua County personally came to Donglianhua Village to commend the Ma brothers.
Architectural details and the guesthouse section of the Ma Ruqi Courtyard. Business at the courtyard was poor from 2020 to 2022, and it was basically half-closed. It has only started to get better this year. Uncle Ma says he will also make further improvements to the guesthouse to welcome more guests.
Since Ma Zaixing went on Hajj in 1948, becoming the first from Menghua to do so, many others from the Ma family, including Ma Ruqi, Ma Ruxiang, and Ma Wenhan, have also made the pilgrimage. Because of this, the Ma family is known as a family that has kept the faith for three generations of Hajj pilgrims (haji).
Today, souvenirs from Ma Wenhan Haji's three pilgrimages still hang on the walls of the Ma Ruqi Courtyard, where you can see traditional Arabic calligraphy in the style of Weishan, Dali. other parts of the Ma Ruqi Courtyard also reflect the traditions of the faith. For example, one door frame has a couplet that reads: The spring breeze is boundless, bringing joy to all the land; the Lord's grace is vast, continuing through the generations. The horizontal scroll reads: Always remember the Lord's grace. As you enter the main gate, you will see a Chinese translation of the Al-Fatiha on the wall.
Beyond religious traditions, the Ma Ruqi Courtyard also keeps old items from the caravan era, including saddles, horse lanterns, and small scales (dengzi).
In the early 1950s, Ma Ruqi went to Myanmar to make a living, and after 1954 he settled in Chiang Mai, Thailand, where he worked in the local produce business and supported public welfare. He and his fellow Weishan native Hu Ranmao founded the Shandi Chinese School in Chiang Mai and helped renovate the Chiang Mai Wanghe Mosque. In 1974, Ma Ruqi was appointed president of the Thai-Chinese Chamber of Commerce. He later hosted many important guests from China and led the first delegation of Thai-Chinese to visit China for a tour in 1979. In 1987, when the Donglianhua Mosque was expanded, Ma Ruqi donated 1 million Thai baht.
After Ma Ruqi went abroad, the Ma Ruqi Courtyard was nationalized in the 1950s. His wife, Ma Huancai, who stayed in their hometown, remained devoted to her faith, managed the household, raised their son, and lived with her son Ma Wenhan. Ma Wenhan inherited the fine traditions of his elders; he was hardworking, frugal, kind, and passionate about public welfare. In 1993, following a change in policy, the Ma Ruqi Courtyard was finally returned to Ma Wenhan. After Ma Wenhan renovated the courtyard, he was able to spend his later years there.
Today, the courtyard has passed to Ma Wenhan's son, Ma Yunhong, who opened a restaurant and guesthouse inside so that guests can better understand and experience the local culture.
Ma Ruqing Courtyard
Built in 1945, the Ma Ruqing Courtyard consists of two watchtowers and three courtyards. At the main gate stands a three-story hexagonal watchtower, with a passageway on the ground floor. The east courtyard has a three-room-and-a-screen-wall (sanfang yizhaobi) layout, the west courtyard has a four-sided-enclosure-with-five-courtyards (sihe wutianjing) layout, and the middle courtyard serves as a garden, enclosed by the east and west halls and the north watchtower.
After Ma Ruqing followed his brothers Ma Ruji and Ma Ruqi to settle in Thailand in the 1950s, the Ma Ruqing Courtyard was nationalized. Today, the west courtyard remains public property, while the middle and east courtyards were bought by local Hui Muslims. When I first visited in 2017, I could not enter the courtyard because it was under renovation. This time, a friend (dosti) living in the middle courtyard led me inside to visit the west courtyard. According to the dosti, Donglianhua Village recently cleared and restored the west courtyard, removing parts added after the 1950s. It is not yet decided when it will open to the public.
In the middle courtyard of the Ma Ruqing compound, you can see a three-story watchtower right at the entrance, which was once where the Ma family received guests. One regret this time was that the people in the east courtyard were not home, so I could not go in. It looks like I will have to visit a third time.
Ma Ruji Compound
Built in 1941, the Ma Ruji compound is the most important Hui Muslim courtyard in Weishan and a witness to the prosperity of the Yunnan horse caravans (mabang). Ma Ruji was born in Donglianhua Village in 1897. He was the eldest of ten Ma brothers, so he was also called Uncle Ma (Ma Daye). In the late Republic of China era, Ma Ruji was the most famous local caravan leader (maguotou). He also served as a Menghua (Weishan) County councilor and head of Yongji Township (Yongjian Town), making him very wealthy and influential.
The Ma Ruji compound consists of three interconnected courtyards: the north, south, and west. The north and south courtyards were Ma Ruji's residence. They combine the traditional Dali architectural styles of a four-sided courtyard with five patios (sihe wutianjing) and a three-room layout with a screen wall (sanfang yizhaobi) to form a six-courtyard harmony (liuhe tongchun) layout.
Inside the main gate of the north and south courtyards, the screen wall (yingbi) is inscribed with the words "Forever Uphold the Pure Truth" (shishou qingzhen). This is the main difference between the traditional courtyards of the local Bai people and the Hui Muslims.
Visiting the Ma Ruji compound in 2017 and 2023, the biggest change is that the Arabic calligraphy unique to Weishan, Dali, which was on display indoors, has been replaced entirely by Chinese calligraphy. The original Arabic calligraphy had both exquisite artistic value and precious historical significance. These calligraphic works were presented to Ma Ruji in the autumn of 1945 by the then-Army General Bai Chongxi and the Menghua County Hui Muslim Anti-Japanese National Salvation Association.
In the 1930s, Long Yun selected caravan leaders (maguotou) from across the province to form the Long family horse caravan for trade with French merchants in Vietnam, and Ma Ruji was chosen to join. The Long family caravan traveled from Kunming through Baise and Guilin to trade in Vietnam. Once, while passing through Guilin, they happened to run into Bai Chongxi, who was celebrating his mother's birthday. Ma Ruji and his group were all invited as guests and received a warm welcome from Bai Chongxi, and from then on, Ma Ruji and Bai Chongxi became friends.
Above the east side room of the hall in the Ma Ruji courtyard stands a four-story watchtower. It serves for both keeping watch and enjoying the view, offering a full look at Donglianhua Village. The sunny photos were taken in 2023, and the cloudy ones were taken in 2017.
The murals in the Ma Ruji courtyard from different historical periods reflect the changes of the times.
In the early 1950s, Ma Ruji and several brothers went to northern Myanmar to make a living, and they settled in Thailand a few years later. In 1953, the Ma brothers and their fellow villager Hu Ranxian set out from Myanmar to perform the Hajj, becoming a Haji. After land reform, Ma Ruji's land and property in Yunnan were divided. The Ma Ruji courtyard and the back garden were taken for public use, serving as a commune, hospital, military camp, middle school, township government, and Islamic association office at different times. After 1996, the east and west rooms of the lower courtyard of the Ma Ruji compound were returned to the Ma family, while the watchtower of the upper courtyard and the back garden remained under the collective ownership of Donglianhua Village.
The west courtyard of the Ma Ruji compound was used to run the caravan business. It had its own north gate, a two-story row of 10 large horse stables, and a warehouse for caravan supplies. In the 1940s, Ma Ruji owned over 100 mules and horses and employed more than 30 caravan workers, making him very powerful.
Waist knife (yaodao).
Tools for shoeing horses.
Kerosene lamp (madeng).
The gong stick (manggun) and gong (mangluo) were used to send signals while the caravan was on the move. Experienced caravan leaders could tell which place and which family a caravan belonged to by the volume, speed, and rhythm of the gong, and they could tell if the signal meant danger, a request to pass, or a call for help.
Stirrup (madeng).
Bamboo woven bowl box (zhumiewanhe).
An exquisite saddle. view all
Reposted from the web
Summary: Weishan, Dali — Donglianhua Hui Caravan Courtyards (Part 1) is presented here as a firsthand travel account in clear English, beginning with this scene: On the afternoon of January 30, 2023, I rode my electric scooter to Donglianhua Village in Weishan, Dali, to visit the three Hui Muslim caravan courtyards there for the second time. The account keeps its focus on Weishan Dali, Hui Caravan Courtyards, Muslim Travel while preserving the names, places, food, and historical details from the Chinese source.
On the afternoon of January 30, 2023, I rode my electric scooter to Donglianhua Village in Weishan, Dali, to visit the three Hui Muslim caravan courtyards there for the second time. In 2017, I focused on visiting the Ma Ruji Courtyard, took a quick look around the Ma Ruqi Courtyard, but could not get into the Ma Ruqing Courtyard, which left me wanting more. At that time, I hoped to have a meal in one of the courtyards and chat with the descendants of the Ma family, and this time, that wish finally came true.
After the Ming Dynasty took control of Yunnan, Zhu Yuanzhang ordered Mu Ying to guard the region. Mu Ying sent some Hui Muslim soldiers under his command to farm in Weishan, Dali. They merged with the Semu people who had come there to trade during the Yuan Dynasty, forming many Hui Muslim villages around Yongjian Town. Donglianhua Village is now mainly home to residents with the surnames Ma and Zhang. The Ma family is known as the Sai family Ma, said to be descendants of Masuhu, the fifth son of the Yuan Dynasty politician Sayyid Ajjal Shams al-Din. The Zhang family are descendants of Hui Muslims from the Jiangnan region who settled there after following Mu Ying during the Ming Dynasty.
Donglianhua Village sits on the main route of the Ancient Tea Horse Road from Pu'er to Dali. Because the local Hui Muslims were skilled at raising horses, they started the business of running horse caravans. Around 1911, ten brothers from the Ma family in Donglianhua, including Ma Ruji, Ma Ruqi, and Ma Ruqing, began trading with horse caravans and gradually became famous caravan leaders (maguotou) in Southwest China. During the Republic of China era, almost every family in Donglianhua Village raised horses. The village had seven large horse caravans and frequent trade traffic, earning it the nickname Little Shanghai of Western Yunnan. In the 1940s, the Ma brothers' business reached its peak, and they competed to build exquisite Ma family courtyards.
After the 1940s, due to frequent caravan trade with Thailand and Myanmar, some people from Donglianhua Village began to settle in those countries, making Donglianhua a famous hometown for overseas Chinese in Yunnan. These overseas residents and their descendants have continuously donated money to protect the village and have made great contributions to Donglianhua.
Ma Ruqi Courtyard
Among the three Ma family courtyards in Donglianhua Village, only the Ma Ruqi Courtyard is still occupied by descendants of the Ma family today. They have opened a restaurant and a guesthouse there, which I think is a great starting point for understanding the modern history of Yunnan's Hui Muslims and caravan culture.
Uncle Ma Wenhong, a descendant of Ma Ruqi, welcomed me warmly. He prepared braised beef and white-cut chicken from the traditional Weishan Hui Muslim banquet known as the Eight Old Bowls (laobawan), as well as sticky rice with sugar, which is only eaten at local weddings. I felt very grateful (shukr).
I listened to Uncle Ma tell the history of the Ma Ruqi Courtyard while we ate. After the Tongzhi era disasters, a group of Hui Muslims with the surname Ma who survived moved from Xiaodonglianhua Village to the current Donglianhua Village. They rebuilt their homes together with a group of Hui Muslims with the surname Zhang who came with them, and Donglianhua Village gradually developed.
In the early years of the Republic of China, Ma Ruqi started his horse-trading business. After more than 20 years of hard work, he became a famous caravan leader (maguotou) in Sichuan, Guizhou, and Yunnan. The 1940s were the peak of the Ma brothers' business. Construction of the Ma Ruqi Courtyard began in 1942 and was officially completed in 1945 after three years.
The Ma Ruqi Courtyard consists of two typical Dali-style three-sided courtyards with a screen wall (sanfang yizhaobi). Both courtyards share one large screen wall, creating a layout of one screen wall for two courtyards. The southern building is a three-story stable with a watchtower, which looks very impressive. The main gate is a relief-carved archway without a porch. The brick pillars on both sides are topped with stone lions, common in Bai ethnic homes. The arch is decorated with colorful paintings of flowers, birds, and landscapes, and the words Qilu are written in the center of the gate.
Ma Ruqi was a major caravan leader in Donglianhua Village. The north courtyard was home to Ma Ruqi's family, while the south courtyard was used to run the caravan business. The southern stable was used to feed the horses, the side rooms provided living space for the caravan workers (majiaozi), and the east side room served as a storage area for supplies. Because the courtyard is located at the southernmost end of Donglianhua Village, right next to the main road into the village, and has a wide view to the southeast, a watchtower was built on the third floor of the southern stable to keep watch and guard against bandits and horse thieves.
In August 1945, Wang Shaoheng led more than 30 bandits to rob Donglianhua Village, and the watchtower of the caravan courtyard played an important role. At that time, the Ma brothers organized the villagers to fight off the bandits, and Ma Ruqi shot and killed the bandit leader Wang Shaoheng. Afterward, the magistrate of Menghua County personally came to Donglianhua Village to commend the Ma brothers.
Architectural details and the guesthouse section of the Ma Ruqi Courtyard. Business at the courtyard was poor from 2020 to 2022, and it was basically half-closed. It has only started to get better this year. Uncle Ma says he will also make further improvements to the guesthouse to welcome more guests.
Since Ma Zaixing went on Hajj in 1948, becoming the first from Menghua to do so, many others from the Ma family, including Ma Ruqi, Ma Ruxiang, and Ma Wenhan, have also made the pilgrimage. Because of this, the Ma family is known as a family that has kept the faith for three generations of Hajj pilgrims (haji).
Today, souvenirs from Ma Wenhan Haji's three pilgrimages still hang on the walls of the Ma Ruqi Courtyard, where you can see traditional Arabic calligraphy in the style of Weishan, Dali. other parts of the Ma Ruqi Courtyard also reflect the traditions of the faith. For example, one door frame has a couplet that reads: The spring breeze is boundless, bringing joy to all the land; the Lord's grace is vast, continuing through the generations. The horizontal scroll reads: Always remember the Lord's grace. As you enter the main gate, you will see a Chinese translation of the Al-Fatiha on the wall.
Beyond religious traditions, the Ma Ruqi Courtyard also keeps old items from the caravan era, including saddles, horse lanterns, and small scales (dengzi).
In the early 1950s, Ma Ruqi went to Myanmar to make a living, and after 1954 he settled in Chiang Mai, Thailand, where he worked in the local produce business and supported public welfare. He and his fellow Weishan native Hu Ranmao founded the Shandi Chinese School in Chiang Mai and helped renovate the Chiang Mai Wanghe Mosque. In 1974, Ma Ruqi was appointed president of the Thai-Chinese Chamber of Commerce. He later hosted many important guests from China and led the first delegation of Thai-Chinese to visit China for a tour in 1979. In 1987, when the Donglianhua Mosque was expanded, Ma Ruqi donated 1 million Thai baht.
After Ma Ruqi went abroad, the Ma Ruqi Courtyard was nationalized in the 1950s. His wife, Ma Huancai, who stayed in their hometown, remained devoted to her faith, managed the household, raised their son, and lived with her son Ma Wenhan. Ma Wenhan inherited the fine traditions of his elders; he was hardworking, frugal, kind, and passionate about public welfare. In 1993, following a change in policy, the Ma Ruqi Courtyard was finally returned to Ma Wenhan. After Ma Wenhan renovated the courtyard, he was able to spend his later years there.
Today, the courtyard has passed to Ma Wenhan's son, Ma Yunhong, who opened a restaurant and guesthouse inside so that guests can better understand and experience the local culture.
Ma Ruqing Courtyard
Built in 1945, the Ma Ruqing Courtyard consists of two watchtowers and three courtyards. At the main gate stands a three-story hexagonal watchtower, with a passageway on the ground floor. The east courtyard has a three-room-and-a-screen-wall (sanfang yizhaobi) layout, the west courtyard has a four-sided-enclosure-with-five-courtyards (sihe wutianjing) layout, and the middle courtyard serves as a garden, enclosed by the east and west halls and the north watchtower.
After Ma Ruqing followed his brothers Ma Ruji and Ma Ruqi to settle in Thailand in the 1950s, the Ma Ruqing Courtyard was nationalized. Today, the west courtyard remains public property, while the middle and east courtyards were bought by local Hui Muslims. When I first visited in 2017, I could not enter the courtyard because it was under renovation. This time, a friend (dosti) living in the middle courtyard led me inside to visit the west courtyard. According to the dosti, Donglianhua Village recently cleared and restored the west courtyard, removing parts added after the 1950s. It is not yet decided when it will open to the public.
In the middle courtyard of the Ma Ruqing compound, you can see a three-story watchtower right at the entrance, which was once where the Ma family received guests. One regret this time was that the people in the east courtyard were not home, so I could not go in. It looks like I will have to visit a third time.
Ma Ruji Compound
Built in 1941, the Ma Ruji compound is the most important Hui Muslim courtyard in Weishan and a witness to the prosperity of the Yunnan horse caravans (mabang). Ma Ruji was born in Donglianhua Village in 1897. He was the eldest of ten Ma brothers, so he was also called Uncle Ma (Ma Daye). In the late Republic of China era, Ma Ruji was the most famous local caravan leader (maguotou). He also served as a Menghua (Weishan) County councilor and head of Yongji Township (Yongjian Town), making him very wealthy and influential.
The Ma Ruji compound consists of three interconnected courtyards: the north, south, and west. The north and south courtyards were Ma Ruji's residence. They combine the traditional Dali architectural styles of a four-sided courtyard with five patios (sihe wutianjing) and a three-room layout with a screen wall (sanfang yizhaobi) to form a six-courtyard harmony (liuhe tongchun) layout.
Inside the main gate of the north and south courtyards, the screen wall (yingbi) is inscribed with the words "Forever Uphold the Pure Truth" (shishou qingzhen). This is the main difference between the traditional courtyards of the local Bai people and the Hui Muslims.
Visiting the Ma Ruji compound in 2017 and 2023, the biggest change is that the Arabic calligraphy unique to Weishan, Dali, which was on display indoors, has been replaced entirely by Chinese calligraphy. The original Arabic calligraphy had both exquisite artistic value and precious historical significance. These calligraphic works were presented to Ma Ruji in the autumn of 1945 by the then-Army General Bai Chongxi and the Menghua County Hui Muslim Anti-Japanese National Salvation Association.
In the 1930s, Long Yun selected caravan leaders (maguotou) from across the province to form the Long family horse caravan for trade with French merchants in Vietnam, and Ma Ruji was chosen to join. The Long family caravan traveled from Kunming through Baise and Guilin to trade in Vietnam. Once, while passing through Guilin, they happened to run into Bai Chongxi, who was celebrating his mother's birthday. Ma Ruji and his group were all invited as guests and received a warm welcome from Bai Chongxi, and from then on, Ma Ruji and Bai Chongxi became friends.
Above the east side room of the hall in the Ma Ruji courtyard stands a four-story watchtower. It serves for both keeping watch and enjoying the view, offering a full look at Donglianhua Village. The sunny photos were taken in 2023, and the cloudy ones were taken in 2017.
The murals in the Ma Ruji courtyard from different historical periods reflect the changes of the times.
In the early 1950s, Ma Ruji and several brothers went to northern Myanmar to make a living, and they settled in Thailand a few years later. In 1953, the Ma brothers and their fellow villager Hu Ranxian set out from Myanmar to perform the Hajj, becoming a Haji. After land reform, Ma Ruji's land and property in Yunnan were divided. The Ma Ruji courtyard and the back garden were taken for public use, serving as a commune, hospital, military camp, middle school, township government, and Islamic association office at different times. After 1996, the east and west rooms of the lower courtyard of the Ma Ruji compound were returned to the Ma family, while the watchtower of the upper courtyard and the back garden remained under the collective ownership of Donglianhua Village.
The west courtyard of the Ma Ruji compound was used to run the caravan business. It had its own north gate, a two-story row of 10 large horse stables, and a warehouse for caravan supplies. In the 1940s, Ma Ruji owned over 100 mules and horses and employed more than 30 caravan workers, making him very powerful.
Waist knife (yaodao).
Tools for shoeing horses.
Kerosene lamp (madeng).
The gong stick (manggun) and gong (mangluo) were used to send signals while the caravan was on the move. Experienced caravan leaders could tell which place and which family a caravan belonged to by the volume, speed, and rhythm of the gong, and they could tell if the signal meant danger, a request to pass, or a call for help.
Stirrup (madeng).
Bamboo woven bowl box (zhumiewanhe).
An exquisite saddle.
Summary: Weishan, Dali — Donglianhua Hui Caravan Courtyards (Part 1) is presented here as a firsthand travel account in clear English, beginning with this scene: On the afternoon of January 30, 2023, I rode my electric scooter to Donglianhua Village in Weishan, Dali, to visit the three Hui Muslim caravan courtyards there for the second time. The account keeps its focus on Weishan Dali, Hui Caravan Courtyards, Muslim Travel while preserving the names, places, food, and historical details from the Chinese source.
On the afternoon of January 30, 2023, I rode my electric scooter to Donglianhua Village in Weishan, Dali, to visit the three Hui Muslim caravan courtyards there for the second time. In 2017, I focused on visiting the Ma Ruji Courtyard, took a quick look around the Ma Ruqi Courtyard, but could not get into the Ma Ruqing Courtyard, which left me wanting more. At that time, I hoped to have a meal in one of the courtyards and chat with the descendants of the Ma family, and this time, that wish finally came true.
After the Ming Dynasty took control of Yunnan, Zhu Yuanzhang ordered Mu Ying to guard the region. Mu Ying sent some Hui Muslim soldiers under his command to farm in Weishan, Dali. They merged with the Semu people who had come there to trade during the Yuan Dynasty, forming many Hui Muslim villages around Yongjian Town. Donglianhua Village is now mainly home to residents with the surnames Ma and Zhang. The Ma family is known as the Sai family Ma, said to be descendants of Masuhu, the fifth son of the Yuan Dynasty politician Sayyid Ajjal Shams al-Din. The Zhang family are descendants of Hui Muslims from the Jiangnan region who settled there after following Mu Ying during the Ming Dynasty.
Donglianhua Village sits on the main route of the Ancient Tea Horse Road from Pu'er to Dali. Because the local Hui Muslims were skilled at raising horses, they started the business of running horse caravans. Around 1911, ten brothers from the Ma family in Donglianhua, including Ma Ruji, Ma Ruqi, and Ma Ruqing, began trading with horse caravans and gradually became famous caravan leaders (maguotou) in Southwest China. During the Republic of China era, almost every family in Donglianhua Village raised horses. The village had seven large horse caravans and frequent trade traffic, earning it the nickname Little Shanghai of Western Yunnan. In the 1940s, the Ma brothers' business reached its peak, and they competed to build exquisite Ma family courtyards.
After the 1940s, due to frequent caravan trade with Thailand and Myanmar, some people from Donglianhua Village began to settle in those countries, making Donglianhua a famous hometown for overseas Chinese in Yunnan. These overseas residents and their descendants have continuously donated money to protect the village and have made great contributions to Donglianhua.
Ma Ruqi Courtyard
Among the three Ma family courtyards in Donglianhua Village, only the Ma Ruqi Courtyard is still occupied by descendants of the Ma family today. They have opened a restaurant and a guesthouse there, which I think is a great starting point for understanding the modern history of Yunnan's Hui Muslims and caravan culture.
Uncle Ma Wenhong, a descendant of Ma Ruqi, welcomed me warmly. He prepared braised beef and white-cut chicken from the traditional Weishan Hui Muslim banquet known as the Eight Old Bowls (laobawan), as well as sticky rice with sugar, which is only eaten at local weddings. I felt very grateful (shukr).
I listened to Uncle Ma tell the history of the Ma Ruqi Courtyard while we ate. After the Tongzhi era disasters, a group of Hui Muslims with the surname Ma who survived moved from Xiaodonglianhua Village to the current Donglianhua Village. They rebuilt their homes together with a group of Hui Muslims with the surname Zhang who came with them, and Donglianhua Village gradually developed.
In the early years of the Republic of China, Ma Ruqi started his horse-trading business. After more than 20 years of hard work, he became a famous caravan leader (maguotou) in Sichuan, Guizhou, and Yunnan. The 1940s were the peak of the Ma brothers' business. Construction of the Ma Ruqi Courtyard began in 1942 and was officially completed in 1945 after three years.
The Ma Ruqi Courtyard consists of two typical Dali-style three-sided courtyards with a screen wall (sanfang yizhaobi). Both courtyards share one large screen wall, creating a layout of one screen wall for two courtyards. The southern building is a three-story stable with a watchtower, which looks very impressive. The main gate is a relief-carved archway without a porch. The brick pillars on both sides are topped with stone lions, common in Bai ethnic homes. The arch is decorated with colorful paintings of flowers, birds, and landscapes, and the words Qilu are written in the center of the gate.
Ma Ruqi was a major caravan leader in Donglianhua Village. The north courtyard was home to Ma Ruqi's family, while the south courtyard was used to run the caravan business. The southern stable was used to feed the horses, the side rooms provided living space for the caravan workers (majiaozi), and the east side room served as a storage area for supplies. Because the courtyard is located at the southernmost end of Donglianhua Village, right next to the main road into the village, and has a wide view to the southeast, a watchtower was built on the third floor of the southern stable to keep watch and guard against bandits and horse thieves.
In August 1945, Wang Shaoheng led more than 30 bandits to rob Donglianhua Village, and the watchtower of the caravan courtyard played an important role. At that time, the Ma brothers organized the villagers to fight off the bandits, and Ma Ruqi shot and killed the bandit leader Wang Shaoheng. Afterward, the magistrate of Menghua County personally came to Donglianhua Village to commend the Ma brothers.
Architectural details and the guesthouse section of the Ma Ruqi Courtyard. Business at the courtyard was poor from 2020 to 2022, and it was basically half-closed. It has only started to get better this year. Uncle Ma says he will also make further improvements to the guesthouse to welcome more guests.
Since Ma Zaixing went on Hajj in 1948, becoming the first from Menghua to do so, many others from the Ma family, including Ma Ruqi, Ma Ruxiang, and Ma Wenhan, have also made the pilgrimage. Because of this, the Ma family is known as a family that has kept the faith for three generations of Hajj pilgrims (haji).
Today, souvenirs from Ma Wenhan Haji's three pilgrimages still hang on the walls of the Ma Ruqi Courtyard, where you can see traditional Arabic calligraphy in the style of Weishan, Dali. other parts of the Ma Ruqi Courtyard also reflect the traditions of the faith. For example, one door frame has a couplet that reads: The spring breeze is boundless, bringing joy to all the land; the Lord's grace is vast, continuing through the generations. The horizontal scroll reads: Always remember the Lord's grace. As you enter the main gate, you will see a Chinese translation of the Al-Fatiha on the wall.
Beyond religious traditions, the Ma Ruqi Courtyard also keeps old items from the caravan era, including saddles, horse lanterns, and small scales (dengzi).
In the early 1950s, Ma Ruqi went to Myanmar to make a living, and after 1954 he settled in Chiang Mai, Thailand, where he worked in the local produce business and supported public welfare. He and his fellow Weishan native Hu Ranmao founded the Shandi Chinese School in Chiang Mai and helped renovate the Chiang Mai Wanghe Mosque. In 1974, Ma Ruqi was appointed president of the Thai-Chinese Chamber of Commerce. He later hosted many important guests from China and led the first delegation of Thai-Chinese to visit China for a tour in 1979. In 1987, when the Donglianhua Mosque was expanded, Ma Ruqi donated 1 million Thai baht.
After Ma Ruqi went abroad, the Ma Ruqi Courtyard was nationalized in the 1950s. His wife, Ma Huancai, who stayed in their hometown, remained devoted to her faith, managed the household, raised their son, and lived with her son Ma Wenhan. Ma Wenhan inherited the fine traditions of his elders; he was hardworking, frugal, kind, and passionate about public welfare. In 1993, following a change in policy, the Ma Ruqi Courtyard was finally returned to Ma Wenhan. After Ma Wenhan renovated the courtyard, he was able to spend his later years there.
Today, the courtyard has passed to Ma Wenhan's son, Ma Yunhong, who opened a restaurant and guesthouse inside so that guests can better understand and experience the local culture.
Ma Ruqing Courtyard
Built in 1945, the Ma Ruqing Courtyard consists of two watchtowers and three courtyards. At the main gate stands a three-story hexagonal watchtower, with a passageway on the ground floor. The east courtyard has a three-room-and-a-screen-wall (sanfang yizhaobi) layout, the west courtyard has a four-sided-enclosure-with-five-courtyards (sihe wutianjing) layout, and the middle courtyard serves as a garden, enclosed by the east and west halls and the north watchtower.
After Ma Ruqing followed his brothers Ma Ruji and Ma Ruqi to settle in Thailand in the 1950s, the Ma Ruqing Courtyard was nationalized. Today, the west courtyard remains public property, while the middle and east courtyards were bought by local Hui Muslims. When I first visited in 2017, I could not enter the courtyard because it was under renovation. This time, a friend (dosti) living in the middle courtyard led me inside to visit the west courtyard. According to the dosti, Donglianhua Village recently cleared and restored the west courtyard, removing parts added after the 1950s. It is not yet decided when it will open to the public.
In the middle courtyard of the Ma Ruqing compound, you can see a three-story watchtower right at the entrance, which was once where the Ma family received guests. One regret this time was that the people in the east courtyard were not home, so I could not go in. It looks like I will have to visit a third time.
Ma Ruji Compound
Built in 1941, the Ma Ruji compound is the most important Hui Muslim courtyard in Weishan and a witness to the prosperity of the Yunnan horse caravans (mabang). Ma Ruji was born in Donglianhua Village in 1897. He was the eldest of ten Ma brothers, so he was also called Uncle Ma (Ma Daye). In the late Republic of China era, Ma Ruji was the most famous local caravan leader (maguotou). He also served as a Menghua (Weishan) County councilor and head of Yongji Township (Yongjian Town), making him very wealthy and influential.
The Ma Ruji compound consists of three interconnected courtyards: the north, south, and west. The north and south courtyards were Ma Ruji's residence. They combine the traditional Dali architectural styles of a four-sided courtyard with five patios (sihe wutianjing) and a three-room layout with a screen wall (sanfang yizhaobi) to form a six-courtyard harmony (liuhe tongchun) layout.
Inside the main gate of the north and south courtyards, the screen wall (yingbi) is inscribed with the words "Forever Uphold the Pure Truth" (shishou qingzhen). This is the main difference between the traditional courtyards of the local Bai people and the Hui Muslims.
Visiting the Ma Ruji compound in 2017 and 2023, the biggest change is that the Arabic calligraphy unique to Weishan, Dali, which was on display indoors, has been replaced entirely by Chinese calligraphy. The original Arabic calligraphy had both exquisite artistic value and precious historical significance. These calligraphic works were presented to Ma Ruji in the autumn of 1945 by the then-Army General Bai Chongxi and the Menghua County Hui Muslim Anti-Japanese National Salvation Association.
In the 1930s, Long Yun selected caravan leaders (maguotou) from across the province to form the Long family horse caravan for trade with French merchants in Vietnam, and Ma Ruji was chosen to join. The Long family caravan traveled from Kunming through Baise and Guilin to trade in Vietnam. Once, while passing through Guilin, they happened to run into Bai Chongxi, who was celebrating his mother's birthday. Ma Ruji and his group were all invited as guests and received a warm welcome from Bai Chongxi, and from then on, Ma Ruji and Bai Chongxi became friends.
Above the east side room of the hall in the Ma Ruji courtyard stands a four-story watchtower. It serves for both keeping watch and enjoying the view, offering a full look at Donglianhua Village. The sunny photos were taken in 2023, and the cloudy ones were taken in 2017.
The murals in the Ma Ruji courtyard from different historical periods reflect the changes of the times.
In the early 1950s, Ma Ruji and several brothers went to northern Myanmar to make a living, and they settled in Thailand a few years later. In 1953, the Ma brothers and their fellow villager Hu Ranxian set out from Myanmar to perform the Hajj, becoming a Haji. After land reform, Ma Ruji's land and property in Yunnan were divided. The Ma Ruji courtyard and the back garden were taken for public use, serving as a commune, hospital, military camp, middle school, township government, and Islamic association office at different times. After 1996, the east and west rooms of the lower courtyard of the Ma Ruji compound were returned to the Ma family, while the watchtower of the upper courtyard and the back garden remained under the collective ownership of Donglianhua Village.
The west courtyard of the Ma Ruji compound was used to run the caravan business. It had its own north gate, a two-story row of 10 large horse stables, and a warehouse for caravan supplies. In the 1940s, Ma Ruji owned over 100 mules and horses and employed more than 30 caravan workers, making him very powerful.
Waist knife (yaodao).
Tools for shoeing horses.
Kerosene lamp (madeng).
The gong stick (manggun) and gong (mangluo) were used to send signals while the caravan was on the move. Experienced caravan leaders could tell which place and which family a caravan belonged to by the volume, speed, and rhythm of the gong, and they could tell if the signal meant danger, a request to pass, or a call for help.
Stirrup (madeng).
Bamboo woven bowl box (zhumiewanhe).
An exquisite saddle.
Halal Travel Guide: Weishan, Dali — Donglianhua Hui Caravan Courtyards (Part 2)
Articles • ali2007fr posted the article • 0 comments • 52 views • 2026-05-18 22:05
Reposted from the web
Summary: Weishan, Dali — Donglianhua Hui Caravan Courtyards (Part 2) is presented here as a firsthand travel account in clear English, beginning with this scene: Thawab. The account keeps its focus on Weishan Dali, Hui Caravan Courtyards, Muslim Travel while preserving the names, places, food, and historical details from the Chinese source.
Thawab view all
Summary: Weishan, Dali — Donglianhua Hui Caravan Courtyards (Part 2) is presented here as a firsthand travel account in clear English, beginning with this scene: Thawab. The account keeps its focus on Weishan Dali, Hui Caravan Courtyards, Muslim Travel while preserving the names, places, food, and historical details from the Chinese source.
Thawab view all
Reposted from the web
Summary: Weishan, Dali — Donglianhua Hui Caravan Courtyards (Part 2) is presented here as a firsthand travel account in clear English, beginning with this scene: Thawab. The account keeps its focus on Weishan Dali, Hui Caravan Courtyards, Muslim Travel while preserving the names, places, food, and historical details from the Chinese source.
Thawab
Summary: Weishan, Dali — Donglianhua Hui Caravan Courtyards (Part 2) is presented here as a firsthand travel account in clear English, beginning with this scene: Thawab. The account keeps its focus on Weishan Dali, Hui Caravan Courtyards, Muslim Travel while preserving the names, places, food, and historical details from the Chinese source.
Thawab
Halal Travel Guide: Weishan, Dali — Ancient Mosques and Hui Muslim Heritage
Articles • ali2007fr posted the article • 0 comments • 68 views • 2026-05-19 02:59
Reposted from the web
Summary: Weishan in Dali, Yunnan, has old mosques and Hui Muslim communities tied to local history, mountain roads, and everyday mosque life. This account closes the 2023 Dali route with visits to ancient mosques, local streets, and community scenes while preserving the original photos and order.
On January 30, I rode an electric scooter from Xiaguan in Dali to Weishan. This is my third visit to Weishan, following trips in 2017 and 2020. My main goal was to visit several mosques I missed during my first two trips.
During my first two trips to Weishan, I visited 20 traditional mosques in Dali, 16 of which were in Weishan. I wrote about them in my article, "Twenty Traditional Mosques in Dali." This time, I visited 5 new mosques in Weishan, bringing my total to 21 traditional mosques visited in the area.
1. Xincun Mosque
2. Chenjia Mosque
3. Xishulong Mosque
4. Shangxi Lianhua Mosque
5. Xiaxi Lianhua Mosque
6. Dong Lianhua Mosque
7. Sanjiacun Mosque
Riding an electric scooter from Xiaguan in Dali to Weishan was probably the most challenging route of my Dali cycling trips. The trip there included 17 kilometers of continuous downhill riding with crosswinds. I had to keep my eyes on the road and my hands on the brakes the whole time without relaxing. Dali also has a large temperature difference between day and night in winter. It was quite cold in the mountains in the morning, but it warmed up as soon as the sun came out at noon.
I didn't dare take any photos while crossing the mountains and only took out my phone once I reached Yongjian Town. This was my third time visiting the market on Hedi Street, and it was still very lively. The Yi ethnic aunties here wore bright, colorful clothes, which looked very different from the Yi clothing I saw in the Daliang Mountains a few days ago.
Riding my scooter through the villages of Yongjian Town to visit old mosques, the pastoral scenery along the way was refreshing. However, riding on country roads sometimes leads to unexpected situations. On my way to Xincun, the furthest Hui Muslim village in Yongjian Town, the road was suddenly cut off by a small, clear river where villagers were washing clothes and shoes. I didn't have time to enjoy the scenery because I was immediately worried. Taking another route meant going all the way back, which would waste a lot of time, but I had no experience riding a bike through water and was afraid I would slip and fall into the river with my bike. After a moment of hesitation, I decided to ride into the river. My bike shot into the middle of the river, and I lost control, heading straight toward the woman who was washing her shoes by the bank. I quickly put my foot down and pushed hard to steer the bike back in the right direction.
I made it across the river, but the shoe and sock on the foot I used to steady myself were completely soaked. Luckily, the midday sun in Dali was very strong, so I let my sock dry while I kept riding, and it was dry in no time.
Xincun Mosque
I first visited Xincun Mosque, which sits on a hillside at the far northwest end of the Weishan Basin. Xincun is known as the first Hui Muslim village at the source of the Red River, with a rushing river in front and lush greenery behind, making for a beautiful setting. The founding date of Xincun Mosque is unknown; it was destroyed in 1872 (the 11th year of the Tongzhi reign), rebuilt during the Guangxu reign, and the main hall was rebuilt again in 1994. The current main hall features a double-eave hip-and-gable roof and still maintains the traditional architectural style of the Dali region.
The minaret of Xincun Mosque was rebuilt in 1988 and has a hexagonal pointed roof. The following photos show the scenery in the village.
Hardworking fellow Muslims.
Chen Family Mosque (Chenjia Si)
I rode my bike from Xincun to the Chen Family Mosque northwest of Xishulong Village. I missed this mosque when I visited Xishulong Village in 2020. The Chen Family Mosque was built by the Chen family of Xishulong Village. Its original construction date is unknown. The ancestors of the Chen family moved here from Shaanxi, settling down after several moves.
The Chen Family Mosque was rebuilt in 1902 (the 28th year of the Guangxu reign) and expanded into its current structure in 1987. It sits near the mountains and water, offering beautiful scenery.
Xishulong Mosque
I performed the noon namaz at Xishulong Mosque. I visited Xishulong Mosque once in 2020, and this is my second time here. The original construction date of Xishulong Mosque is unknown. It was rebuilt in 1902 (the 28th year of the Guangxu reign) and rebuilt again in 1990 into its current form. The main hall has a double-eaved hip-and-gable roof with a unique hexagonal pavilion in the center of the roof ridge.
Shangxi Lianhua Mosque
I rode south from Xishulong Village to Shangxi Lianhua Village to visit the Shangxi Lianhua Mosque. The original construction date of Shangxi Lianhua Mosque is unknown. It was destroyed in 1872 (the 11th year of the Tongzhi reign) and later rebuilt and expanded several times into its current structure.
Xiaxi Lianhua Mosque
I traveled from Shangxi Lianhua Mosque to Xiaxi Lianhua Mosque. The original construction date of Xiaxi Lianhua Mosque is also unknown. It was destroyed in 1872 (the 11th year of the Tongzhi reign), rebuilt in 1925, and later rebuilt again into its current structure.
Dong Lianhua Mosque
I traveled from Xiaxi Lotus Mosque (Xiaxi Lianhua Si) to Donglianhua Village, the best-preserved village in Weishan. I visited three Ma family courtyards, which I wrote about in 'The Three Hui Muslim Caravan Courtyards of Donglianhua Village, Weishan, Dali,' and then I visited the Donglianhua Mosque.
Donglianhua Mosque was first built during the Qing Dynasty and was expanded twice, in 1921 and 1987. The mosque layout runs from east to west, featuring the main gate, the minaret, and the main prayer hall (Chaozhen Dian). The minaret divides the courtyard into two sections.
The minaret was raised to four stories in 1987, following a five-five-three-one structural design. The first three floors serve as classrooms for holiday study groups, while the fourth floor is where the adhan is called.
The main prayer hall was expanded in 1921 into a five-bay by seven-bay structure, and it was expanded again in 1987 into a nine-bay by eleven-bay structure. The mihrab features traditional Arabic calligraphy in the classic Yunnan style.
In front of the main prayer hall hangs a plaque inscribed with 'Cheng Yi Bu Er' (Sincerity is Unique), which was presented by Major General Yang Shengqi in 1926. General Yang Shengqi was close friends with Ma Ruji, a major caravan leader in Donglianhua. In 1926, he traveled from Kunming to visit Ma Ruji in Donglianhua and presented this plaque to the mosque.
Sanjia Village Mosque
Finally, I visited the Sanjia Village Mosque. Sanjia Village was originally called Saijia Village. The Sai family were descendants of Masuh, the fifth son of Sayyid Ajjal Shams al-Din Omar. They moved from Daweigeng and Xiaweigeng villages in the mid-Ming Dynasty to establish Saijia Village. Later, many Hui Muslims with other surnames moved here, making it one of the larger Hui Muslim villages in the Yongjian Basin. During the Tongzhi reign, the entire village of over 3,500 people was killed. Later, three families returned to settle here, so the name was changed to Sanjia (Three Families) Village.
The current main prayer hall of the Sanjia Village Mosque was rebuilt in 1997, and from the top, you can look out over the scenery of the Yongjian Basin. The setting sun shone down, making the Yongjian Basin glow with a beautiful golden light. view all
Summary: Weishan in Dali, Yunnan, has old mosques and Hui Muslim communities tied to local history, mountain roads, and everyday mosque life. This account closes the 2023 Dali route with visits to ancient mosques, local streets, and community scenes while preserving the original photos and order.
On January 30, I rode an electric scooter from Xiaguan in Dali to Weishan. This is my third visit to Weishan, following trips in 2017 and 2020. My main goal was to visit several mosques I missed during my first two trips.
During my first two trips to Weishan, I visited 20 traditional mosques in Dali, 16 of which were in Weishan. I wrote about them in my article, "Twenty Traditional Mosques in Dali." This time, I visited 5 new mosques in Weishan, bringing my total to 21 traditional mosques visited in the area.
1. Xincun Mosque
2. Chenjia Mosque
3. Xishulong Mosque
4. Shangxi Lianhua Mosque
5. Xiaxi Lianhua Mosque
6. Dong Lianhua Mosque
7. Sanjiacun Mosque
Riding an electric scooter from Xiaguan in Dali to Weishan was probably the most challenging route of my Dali cycling trips. The trip there included 17 kilometers of continuous downhill riding with crosswinds. I had to keep my eyes on the road and my hands on the brakes the whole time without relaxing. Dali also has a large temperature difference between day and night in winter. It was quite cold in the mountains in the morning, but it warmed up as soon as the sun came out at noon.
I didn't dare take any photos while crossing the mountains and only took out my phone once I reached Yongjian Town. This was my third time visiting the market on Hedi Street, and it was still very lively. The Yi ethnic aunties here wore bright, colorful clothes, which looked very different from the Yi clothing I saw in the Daliang Mountains a few days ago.
Riding my scooter through the villages of Yongjian Town to visit old mosques, the pastoral scenery along the way was refreshing. However, riding on country roads sometimes leads to unexpected situations. On my way to Xincun, the furthest Hui Muslim village in Yongjian Town, the road was suddenly cut off by a small, clear river where villagers were washing clothes and shoes. I didn't have time to enjoy the scenery because I was immediately worried. Taking another route meant going all the way back, which would waste a lot of time, but I had no experience riding a bike through water and was afraid I would slip and fall into the river with my bike. After a moment of hesitation, I decided to ride into the river. My bike shot into the middle of the river, and I lost control, heading straight toward the woman who was washing her shoes by the bank. I quickly put my foot down and pushed hard to steer the bike back in the right direction.
I made it across the river, but the shoe and sock on the foot I used to steady myself were completely soaked. Luckily, the midday sun in Dali was very strong, so I let my sock dry while I kept riding, and it was dry in no time.
Xincun Mosque
I first visited Xincun Mosque, which sits on a hillside at the far northwest end of the Weishan Basin. Xincun is known as the first Hui Muslim village at the source of the Red River, with a rushing river in front and lush greenery behind, making for a beautiful setting. The founding date of Xincun Mosque is unknown; it was destroyed in 1872 (the 11th year of the Tongzhi reign), rebuilt during the Guangxu reign, and the main hall was rebuilt again in 1994. The current main hall features a double-eave hip-and-gable roof and still maintains the traditional architectural style of the Dali region.
The minaret of Xincun Mosque was rebuilt in 1988 and has a hexagonal pointed roof. The following photos show the scenery in the village.
Hardworking fellow Muslims.
Chen Family Mosque (Chenjia Si)
I rode my bike from Xincun to the Chen Family Mosque northwest of Xishulong Village. I missed this mosque when I visited Xishulong Village in 2020. The Chen Family Mosque was built by the Chen family of Xishulong Village. Its original construction date is unknown. The ancestors of the Chen family moved here from Shaanxi, settling down after several moves.
The Chen Family Mosque was rebuilt in 1902 (the 28th year of the Guangxu reign) and expanded into its current structure in 1987. It sits near the mountains and water, offering beautiful scenery.
Xishulong Mosque
I performed the noon namaz at Xishulong Mosque. I visited Xishulong Mosque once in 2020, and this is my second time here. The original construction date of Xishulong Mosque is unknown. It was rebuilt in 1902 (the 28th year of the Guangxu reign) and rebuilt again in 1990 into its current form. The main hall has a double-eaved hip-and-gable roof with a unique hexagonal pavilion in the center of the roof ridge.
Shangxi Lianhua Mosque
I rode south from Xishulong Village to Shangxi Lianhua Village to visit the Shangxi Lianhua Mosque. The original construction date of Shangxi Lianhua Mosque is unknown. It was destroyed in 1872 (the 11th year of the Tongzhi reign) and later rebuilt and expanded several times into its current structure.
Xiaxi Lianhua Mosque
I traveled from Shangxi Lianhua Mosque to Xiaxi Lianhua Mosque. The original construction date of Xiaxi Lianhua Mosque is also unknown. It was destroyed in 1872 (the 11th year of the Tongzhi reign), rebuilt in 1925, and later rebuilt again into its current structure.
Dong Lianhua Mosque
I traveled from Xiaxi Lotus Mosque (Xiaxi Lianhua Si) to Donglianhua Village, the best-preserved village in Weishan. I visited three Ma family courtyards, which I wrote about in 'The Three Hui Muslim Caravan Courtyards of Donglianhua Village, Weishan, Dali,' and then I visited the Donglianhua Mosque.
Donglianhua Mosque was first built during the Qing Dynasty and was expanded twice, in 1921 and 1987. The mosque layout runs from east to west, featuring the main gate, the minaret, and the main prayer hall (Chaozhen Dian). The minaret divides the courtyard into two sections.
The minaret was raised to four stories in 1987, following a five-five-three-one structural design. The first three floors serve as classrooms for holiday study groups, while the fourth floor is where the adhan is called.
The main prayer hall was expanded in 1921 into a five-bay by seven-bay structure, and it was expanded again in 1987 into a nine-bay by eleven-bay structure. The mihrab features traditional Arabic calligraphy in the classic Yunnan style.
In front of the main prayer hall hangs a plaque inscribed with 'Cheng Yi Bu Er' (Sincerity is Unique), which was presented by Major General Yang Shengqi in 1926. General Yang Shengqi was close friends with Ma Ruji, a major caravan leader in Donglianhua. In 1926, he traveled from Kunming to visit Ma Ruji in Donglianhua and presented this plaque to the mosque.
Sanjia Village Mosque
Finally, I visited the Sanjia Village Mosque. Sanjia Village was originally called Saijia Village. The Sai family were descendants of Masuh, the fifth son of Sayyid Ajjal Shams al-Din Omar. They moved from Daweigeng and Xiaweigeng villages in the mid-Ming Dynasty to establish Saijia Village. Later, many Hui Muslims with other surnames moved here, making it one of the larger Hui Muslim villages in the Yongjian Basin. During the Tongzhi reign, the entire village of over 3,500 people was killed. Later, three families returned to settle here, so the name was changed to Sanjia (Three Families) Village.
The current main prayer hall of the Sanjia Village Mosque was rebuilt in 1997, and from the top, you can look out over the scenery of the Yongjian Basin. The setting sun shone down, making the Yongjian Basin glow with a beautiful golden light. view all
Reposted from the web
Summary: Weishan in Dali, Yunnan, has old mosques and Hui Muslim communities tied to local history, mountain roads, and everyday mosque life. This account closes the 2023 Dali route with visits to ancient mosques, local streets, and community scenes while preserving the original photos and order.
On January 30, I rode an electric scooter from Xiaguan in Dali to Weishan. This is my third visit to Weishan, following trips in 2017 and 2020. My main goal was to visit several mosques I missed during my first two trips.
During my first two trips to Weishan, I visited 20 traditional mosques in Dali, 16 of which were in Weishan. I wrote about them in my article, "Twenty Traditional Mosques in Dali." This time, I visited 5 new mosques in Weishan, bringing my total to 21 traditional mosques visited in the area.
1. Xincun Mosque
2. Chenjia Mosque
3. Xishulong Mosque
4. Shangxi Lianhua Mosque
5. Xiaxi Lianhua Mosque
6. Dong Lianhua Mosque
7. Sanjiacun Mosque
Riding an electric scooter from Xiaguan in Dali to Weishan was probably the most challenging route of my Dali cycling trips. The trip there included 17 kilometers of continuous downhill riding with crosswinds. I had to keep my eyes on the road and my hands on the brakes the whole time without relaxing. Dali also has a large temperature difference between day and night in winter. It was quite cold in the mountains in the morning, but it warmed up as soon as the sun came out at noon.
I didn't dare take any photos while crossing the mountains and only took out my phone once I reached Yongjian Town. This was my third time visiting the market on Hedi Street, and it was still very lively. The Yi ethnic aunties here wore bright, colorful clothes, which looked very different from the Yi clothing I saw in the Daliang Mountains a few days ago.
Riding my scooter through the villages of Yongjian Town to visit old mosques, the pastoral scenery along the way was refreshing. However, riding on country roads sometimes leads to unexpected situations. On my way to Xincun, the furthest Hui Muslim village in Yongjian Town, the road was suddenly cut off by a small, clear river where villagers were washing clothes and shoes. I didn't have time to enjoy the scenery because I was immediately worried. Taking another route meant going all the way back, which would waste a lot of time, but I had no experience riding a bike through water and was afraid I would slip and fall into the river with my bike. After a moment of hesitation, I decided to ride into the river. My bike shot into the middle of the river, and I lost control, heading straight toward the woman who was washing her shoes by the bank. I quickly put my foot down and pushed hard to steer the bike back in the right direction.
I made it across the river, but the shoe and sock on the foot I used to steady myself were completely soaked. Luckily, the midday sun in Dali was very strong, so I let my sock dry while I kept riding, and it was dry in no time.
Xincun Mosque
I first visited Xincun Mosque, which sits on a hillside at the far northwest end of the Weishan Basin. Xincun is known as the first Hui Muslim village at the source of the Red River, with a rushing river in front and lush greenery behind, making for a beautiful setting. The founding date of Xincun Mosque is unknown; it was destroyed in 1872 (the 11th year of the Tongzhi reign), rebuilt during the Guangxu reign, and the main hall was rebuilt again in 1994. The current main hall features a double-eave hip-and-gable roof and still maintains the traditional architectural style of the Dali region.
The minaret of Xincun Mosque was rebuilt in 1988 and has a hexagonal pointed roof. The following photos show the scenery in the village.
Hardworking fellow Muslims.
Chen Family Mosque (Chenjia Si)
I rode my bike from Xincun to the Chen Family Mosque northwest of Xishulong Village. I missed this mosque when I visited Xishulong Village in 2020. The Chen Family Mosque was built by the Chen family of Xishulong Village. Its original construction date is unknown. The ancestors of the Chen family moved here from Shaanxi, settling down after several moves.
The Chen Family Mosque was rebuilt in 1902 (the 28th year of the Guangxu reign) and expanded into its current structure in 1987. It sits near the mountains and water, offering beautiful scenery.
Xishulong Mosque
I performed the noon namaz at Xishulong Mosque. I visited Xishulong Mosque once in 2020, and this is my second time here. The original construction date of Xishulong Mosque is unknown. It was rebuilt in 1902 (the 28th year of the Guangxu reign) and rebuilt again in 1990 into its current form. The main hall has a double-eaved hip-and-gable roof with a unique hexagonal pavilion in the center of the roof ridge.
Shangxi Lianhua Mosque
I rode south from Xishulong Village to Shangxi Lianhua Village to visit the Shangxi Lianhua Mosque. The original construction date of Shangxi Lianhua Mosque is unknown. It was destroyed in 1872 (the 11th year of the Tongzhi reign) and later rebuilt and expanded several times into its current structure.
Xiaxi Lianhua Mosque
I traveled from Shangxi Lianhua Mosque to Xiaxi Lianhua Mosque. The original construction date of Xiaxi Lianhua Mosque is also unknown. It was destroyed in 1872 (the 11th year of the Tongzhi reign), rebuilt in 1925, and later rebuilt again into its current structure.
Dong Lianhua Mosque
I traveled from Xiaxi Lotus Mosque (Xiaxi Lianhua Si) to Donglianhua Village, the best-preserved village in Weishan. I visited three Ma family courtyards, which I wrote about in 'The Three Hui Muslim Caravan Courtyards of Donglianhua Village, Weishan, Dali,' and then I visited the Donglianhua Mosque.
Donglianhua Mosque was first built during the Qing Dynasty and was expanded twice, in 1921 and 1987. The mosque layout runs from east to west, featuring the main gate, the minaret, and the main prayer hall (Chaozhen Dian). The minaret divides the courtyard into two sections.
The minaret was raised to four stories in 1987, following a five-five-three-one structural design. The first three floors serve as classrooms for holiday study groups, while the fourth floor is where the adhan is called.
The main prayer hall was expanded in 1921 into a five-bay by seven-bay structure, and it was expanded again in 1987 into a nine-bay by eleven-bay structure. The mihrab features traditional Arabic calligraphy in the classic Yunnan style.
In front of the main prayer hall hangs a plaque inscribed with 'Cheng Yi Bu Er' (Sincerity is Unique), which was presented by Major General Yang Shengqi in 1926. General Yang Shengqi was close friends with Ma Ruji, a major caravan leader in Donglianhua. In 1926, he traveled from Kunming to visit Ma Ruji in Donglianhua and presented this plaque to the mosque.
Sanjia Village Mosque
Finally, I visited the Sanjia Village Mosque. Sanjia Village was originally called Saijia Village. The Sai family were descendants of Masuh, the fifth son of Sayyid Ajjal Shams al-Din Omar. They moved from Daweigeng and Xiaweigeng villages in the mid-Ming Dynasty to establish Saijia Village. Later, many Hui Muslims with other surnames moved here, making it one of the larger Hui Muslim villages in the Yongjian Basin. During the Tongzhi reign, the entire village of over 3,500 people was killed. Later, three families returned to settle here, so the name was changed to Sanjia (Three Families) Village.
The current main prayer hall of the Sanjia Village Mosque was rebuilt in 1997, and from the top, you can look out over the scenery of the Yongjian Basin. The setting sun shone down, making the Yongjian Basin glow with a beautiful golden light.
Summary: Weishan in Dali, Yunnan, has old mosques and Hui Muslim communities tied to local history, mountain roads, and everyday mosque life. This account closes the 2023 Dali route with visits to ancient mosques, local streets, and community scenes while preserving the original photos and order.
On January 30, I rode an electric scooter from Xiaguan in Dali to Weishan. This is my third visit to Weishan, following trips in 2017 and 2020. My main goal was to visit several mosques I missed during my first two trips.
During my first two trips to Weishan, I visited 20 traditional mosques in Dali, 16 of which were in Weishan. I wrote about them in my article, "Twenty Traditional Mosques in Dali." This time, I visited 5 new mosques in Weishan, bringing my total to 21 traditional mosques visited in the area.
1. Xincun Mosque
2. Chenjia Mosque
3. Xishulong Mosque
4. Shangxi Lianhua Mosque
5. Xiaxi Lianhua Mosque
6. Dong Lianhua Mosque
7. Sanjiacun Mosque
Riding an electric scooter from Xiaguan in Dali to Weishan was probably the most challenging route of my Dali cycling trips. The trip there included 17 kilometers of continuous downhill riding with crosswinds. I had to keep my eyes on the road and my hands on the brakes the whole time without relaxing. Dali also has a large temperature difference between day and night in winter. It was quite cold in the mountains in the morning, but it warmed up as soon as the sun came out at noon.
I didn't dare take any photos while crossing the mountains and only took out my phone once I reached Yongjian Town. This was my third time visiting the market on Hedi Street, and it was still very lively. The Yi ethnic aunties here wore bright, colorful clothes, which looked very different from the Yi clothing I saw in the Daliang Mountains a few days ago.
Riding my scooter through the villages of Yongjian Town to visit old mosques, the pastoral scenery along the way was refreshing. However, riding on country roads sometimes leads to unexpected situations. On my way to Xincun, the furthest Hui Muslim village in Yongjian Town, the road was suddenly cut off by a small, clear river where villagers were washing clothes and shoes. I didn't have time to enjoy the scenery because I was immediately worried. Taking another route meant going all the way back, which would waste a lot of time, but I had no experience riding a bike through water and was afraid I would slip and fall into the river with my bike. After a moment of hesitation, I decided to ride into the river. My bike shot into the middle of the river, and I lost control, heading straight toward the woman who was washing her shoes by the bank. I quickly put my foot down and pushed hard to steer the bike back in the right direction.
I made it across the river, but the shoe and sock on the foot I used to steady myself were completely soaked. Luckily, the midday sun in Dali was very strong, so I let my sock dry while I kept riding, and it was dry in no time.
Xincun Mosque
I first visited Xincun Mosque, which sits on a hillside at the far northwest end of the Weishan Basin. Xincun is known as the first Hui Muslim village at the source of the Red River, with a rushing river in front and lush greenery behind, making for a beautiful setting. The founding date of Xincun Mosque is unknown; it was destroyed in 1872 (the 11th year of the Tongzhi reign), rebuilt during the Guangxu reign, and the main hall was rebuilt again in 1994. The current main hall features a double-eave hip-and-gable roof and still maintains the traditional architectural style of the Dali region.
The minaret of Xincun Mosque was rebuilt in 1988 and has a hexagonal pointed roof. The following photos show the scenery in the village.
Hardworking fellow Muslims.
Chen Family Mosque (Chenjia Si)
I rode my bike from Xincun to the Chen Family Mosque northwest of Xishulong Village. I missed this mosque when I visited Xishulong Village in 2020. The Chen Family Mosque was built by the Chen family of Xishulong Village. Its original construction date is unknown. The ancestors of the Chen family moved here from Shaanxi, settling down after several moves.
The Chen Family Mosque was rebuilt in 1902 (the 28th year of the Guangxu reign) and expanded into its current structure in 1987. It sits near the mountains and water, offering beautiful scenery.
Xishulong Mosque
I performed the noon namaz at Xishulong Mosque. I visited Xishulong Mosque once in 2020, and this is my second time here. The original construction date of Xishulong Mosque is unknown. It was rebuilt in 1902 (the 28th year of the Guangxu reign) and rebuilt again in 1990 into its current form. The main hall has a double-eaved hip-and-gable roof with a unique hexagonal pavilion in the center of the roof ridge.
Shangxi Lianhua Mosque
I rode south from Xishulong Village to Shangxi Lianhua Village to visit the Shangxi Lianhua Mosque. The original construction date of Shangxi Lianhua Mosque is unknown. It was destroyed in 1872 (the 11th year of the Tongzhi reign) and later rebuilt and expanded several times into its current structure.
Xiaxi Lianhua Mosque
I traveled from Shangxi Lianhua Mosque to Xiaxi Lianhua Mosque. The original construction date of Xiaxi Lianhua Mosque is also unknown. It was destroyed in 1872 (the 11th year of the Tongzhi reign), rebuilt in 1925, and later rebuilt again into its current structure.
Dong Lianhua Mosque
I traveled from Xiaxi Lotus Mosque (Xiaxi Lianhua Si) to Donglianhua Village, the best-preserved village in Weishan. I visited three Ma family courtyards, which I wrote about in 'The Three Hui Muslim Caravan Courtyards of Donglianhua Village, Weishan, Dali,' and then I visited the Donglianhua Mosque.
Donglianhua Mosque was first built during the Qing Dynasty and was expanded twice, in 1921 and 1987. The mosque layout runs from east to west, featuring the main gate, the minaret, and the main prayer hall (Chaozhen Dian). The minaret divides the courtyard into two sections.
The minaret was raised to four stories in 1987, following a five-five-three-one structural design. The first three floors serve as classrooms for holiday study groups, while the fourth floor is where the adhan is called.
The main prayer hall was expanded in 1921 into a five-bay by seven-bay structure, and it was expanded again in 1987 into a nine-bay by eleven-bay structure. The mihrab features traditional Arabic calligraphy in the classic Yunnan style.
In front of the main prayer hall hangs a plaque inscribed with 'Cheng Yi Bu Er' (Sincerity is Unique), which was presented by Major General Yang Shengqi in 1926. General Yang Shengqi was close friends with Ma Ruji, a major caravan leader in Donglianhua. In 1926, he traveled from Kunming to visit Ma Ruji in Donglianhua and presented this plaque to the mosque.
Sanjia Village Mosque
Finally, I visited the Sanjia Village Mosque. Sanjia Village was originally called Saijia Village. The Sai family were descendants of Masuh, the fifth son of Sayyid Ajjal Shams al-Din Omar. They moved from Daweigeng and Xiaweigeng villages in the mid-Ming Dynasty to establish Saijia Village. Later, many Hui Muslims with other surnames moved here, making it one of the larger Hui Muslim villages in the Yongjian Basin. During the Tongzhi reign, the entire village of over 3,500 people was killed. Later, three families returned to settle here, so the name was changed to Sanjia (Three Families) Village.
The current main prayer hall of the Sanjia Village Mosque was rebuilt in 1997, and from the top, you can look out over the scenery of the Yongjian Basin. The setting sun shone down, making the Yongjian Basin glow with a beautiful golden light.
Halal Travel Guide: Weishan, Dali — Donglianhua Hui Caravan Courtyards (Part 1)
Articles • ali2007fr posted the article • 0 comments • 75 views • 2026-05-18 22:05
Reposted from the web
Summary: Weishan, Dali — Donglianhua Hui Caravan Courtyards (Part 1) is presented here as a firsthand travel account in clear English, beginning with this scene: On the afternoon of January 30, 2023, I rode my electric scooter to Donglianhua Village in Weishan, Dali, to visit the three Hui Muslim caravan courtyards there for the second time. The account keeps its focus on Weishan Dali, Hui Caravan Courtyards, Muslim Travel while preserving the names, places, food, and historical details from the Chinese source.
On the afternoon of January 30, 2023, I rode my electric scooter to Donglianhua Village in Weishan, Dali, to visit the three Hui Muslim caravan courtyards there for the second time. In 2017, I focused on visiting the Ma Ruji Courtyard, took a quick look around the Ma Ruqi Courtyard, but could not get into the Ma Ruqing Courtyard, which left me wanting more. At that time, I hoped to have a meal in one of the courtyards and chat with the descendants of the Ma family, and this time, that wish finally came true.
After the Ming Dynasty took control of Yunnan, Zhu Yuanzhang ordered Mu Ying to guard the region. Mu Ying sent some Hui Muslim soldiers under his command to farm in Weishan, Dali. They merged with the Semu people who had come there to trade during the Yuan Dynasty, forming many Hui Muslim villages around Yongjian Town. Donglianhua Village is now mainly home to residents with the surnames Ma and Zhang. The Ma family is known as the Sai family Ma, said to be descendants of Masuhu, the fifth son of the Yuan Dynasty politician Sayyid Ajjal Shams al-Din. The Zhang family are descendants of Hui Muslims from the Jiangnan region who settled there after following Mu Ying during the Ming Dynasty.
Donglianhua Village sits on the main route of the Ancient Tea Horse Road from Pu'er to Dali. Because the local Hui Muslims were skilled at raising horses, they started the business of running horse caravans. Around 1911, ten brothers from the Ma family in Donglianhua, including Ma Ruji, Ma Ruqi, and Ma Ruqing, began trading with horse caravans and gradually became famous caravan leaders (maguotou) in Southwest China. During the Republic of China era, almost every family in Donglianhua Village raised horses. The village had seven large horse caravans and frequent trade traffic, earning it the nickname Little Shanghai of Western Yunnan. In the 1940s, the Ma brothers' business reached its peak, and they competed to build exquisite Ma family courtyards.
After the 1940s, due to frequent caravan trade with Thailand and Myanmar, some people from Donglianhua Village began to settle in those countries, making Donglianhua a famous hometown for overseas Chinese in Yunnan. These overseas residents and their descendants have continuously donated money to protect the village and have made great contributions to Donglianhua.
Ma Ruqi Courtyard
Among the three Ma family courtyards in Donglianhua Village, only the Ma Ruqi Courtyard is still occupied by descendants of the Ma family today. They have opened a restaurant and a guesthouse there, which I think is a great starting point for understanding the modern history of Yunnan's Hui Muslims and caravan culture.
Uncle Ma Wenhong, a descendant of Ma Ruqi, welcomed me warmly. He prepared braised beef and white-cut chicken from the traditional Weishan Hui Muslim banquet known as the Eight Old Bowls (laobawan), as well as sticky rice with sugar, which is only eaten at local weddings. I felt very grateful (shukr).
I listened to Uncle Ma tell the history of the Ma Ruqi Courtyard while we ate. After the Tongzhi era disasters, a group of Hui Muslims with the surname Ma who survived moved from Xiaodonglianhua Village to the current Donglianhua Village. They rebuilt their homes together with a group of Hui Muslims with the surname Zhang who came with them, and Donglianhua Village gradually developed.
In the early years of the Republic of China, Ma Ruqi started his horse-trading business. After more than 20 years of hard work, he became a famous caravan leader (maguotou) in Sichuan, Guizhou, and Yunnan. The 1940s were the peak of the Ma brothers' business. Construction of the Ma Ruqi Courtyard began in 1942 and was officially completed in 1945 after three years.
The Ma Ruqi Courtyard consists of two typical Dali-style three-sided courtyards with a screen wall (sanfang yizhaobi). Both courtyards share one large screen wall, creating a layout of one screen wall for two courtyards. The southern building is a three-story stable with a watchtower, which looks very impressive. The main gate is a relief-carved archway without a porch. The brick pillars on both sides are topped with stone lions, common in Bai ethnic homes. The arch is decorated with colorful paintings of flowers, birds, and landscapes, and the words Qilu are written in the center of the gate.
Ma Ruqi was a major caravan leader in Donglianhua Village. The north courtyard was home to Ma Ruqi's family, while the south courtyard was used to run the caravan business. The southern stable was used to feed the horses, the side rooms provided living space for the caravan workers (majiaozi), and the east side room served as a storage area for supplies. Because the courtyard is located at the southernmost end of Donglianhua Village, right next to the main road into the village, and has a wide view to the southeast, a watchtower was built on the third floor of the southern stable to keep watch and guard against bandits and horse thieves.
In August 1945, Wang Shaoheng led more than 30 bandits to rob Donglianhua Village, and the watchtower of the caravan courtyard played an important role. At that time, the Ma brothers organized the villagers to fight off the bandits, and Ma Ruqi shot and killed the bandit leader Wang Shaoheng. Afterward, the magistrate of Menghua County personally came to Donglianhua Village to commend the Ma brothers.
Architectural details and the guesthouse section of the Ma Ruqi Courtyard. Business at the courtyard was poor from 2020 to 2022, and it was basically half-closed. It has only started to get better this year. Uncle Ma says he will also make further improvements to the guesthouse to welcome more guests.
Since Ma Zaixing went on Hajj in 1948, becoming the first from Menghua to do so, many others from the Ma family, including Ma Ruqi, Ma Ruxiang, and Ma Wenhan, have also made the pilgrimage. Because of this, the Ma family is known as a family that has kept the faith for three generations of Hajj pilgrims (haji).
Today, souvenirs from Ma Wenhan Haji's three pilgrimages still hang on the walls of the Ma Ruqi Courtyard, where you can see traditional Arabic calligraphy in the style of Weishan, Dali. other parts of the Ma Ruqi Courtyard also reflect the traditions of the faith. For example, one door frame has a couplet that reads: The spring breeze is boundless, bringing joy to all the land; the Lord's grace is vast, continuing through the generations. The horizontal scroll reads: Always remember the Lord's grace. As you enter the main gate, you will see a Chinese translation of the Al-Fatiha on the wall.
Beyond religious traditions, the Ma Ruqi Courtyard also keeps old items from the caravan era, including saddles, horse lanterns, and small scales (dengzi).
In the early 1950s, Ma Ruqi went to Myanmar to make a living, and after 1954 he settled in Chiang Mai, Thailand, where he worked in the local produce business and supported public welfare. He and his fellow Weishan native Hu Ranmao founded the Shandi Chinese School in Chiang Mai and helped renovate the Chiang Mai Wanghe Mosque. In 1974, Ma Ruqi was appointed president of the Thai-Chinese Chamber of Commerce. He later hosted many important guests from China and led the first delegation of Thai-Chinese to visit China for a tour in 1979. In 1987, when the Donglianhua Mosque was expanded, Ma Ruqi donated 1 million Thai baht.
After Ma Ruqi went abroad, the Ma Ruqi Courtyard was nationalized in the 1950s. His wife, Ma Huancai, who stayed in their hometown, remained devoted to her faith, managed the household, raised their son, and lived with her son Ma Wenhan. Ma Wenhan inherited the fine traditions of his elders; he was hardworking, frugal, kind, and passionate about public welfare. In 1993, following a change in policy, the Ma Ruqi Courtyard was finally returned to Ma Wenhan. After Ma Wenhan renovated the courtyard, he was able to spend his later years there.
Today, the courtyard has passed to Ma Wenhan's son, Ma Yunhong, who opened a restaurant and guesthouse inside so that guests can better understand and experience the local culture.
Ma Ruqing Courtyard
Built in 1945, the Ma Ruqing Courtyard consists of two watchtowers and three courtyards. At the main gate stands a three-story hexagonal watchtower, with a passageway on the ground floor. The east courtyard has a three-room-and-a-screen-wall (sanfang yizhaobi) layout, the west courtyard has a four-sided-enclosure-with-five-courtyards (sihe wutianjing) layout, and the middle courtyard serves as a garden, enclosed by the east and west halls and the north watchtower.
After Ma Ruqing followed his brothers Ma Ruji and Ma Ruqi to settle in Thailand in the 1950s, the Ma Ruqing Courtyard was nationalized. Today, the west courtyard remains public property, while the middle and east courtyards were bought by local Hui Muslims. When I first visited in 2017, I could not enter the courtyard because it was under renovation. This time, a friend (dosti) living in the middle courtyard led me inside to visit the west courtyard. According to the dosti, Donglianhua Village recently cleared and restored the west courtyard, removing parts added after the 1950s. It is not yet decided when it will open to the public.
In the middle courtyard of the Ma Ruqing compound, you can see a three-story watchtower right at the entrance, which was once where the Ma family received guests. One regret this time was that the people in the east courtyard were not home, so I could not go in. It looks like I will have to visit a third time.
Ma Ruji Compound
Built in 1941, the Ma Ruji compound is the most important Hui Muslim courtyard in Weishan and a witness to the prosperity of the Yunnan horse caravans (mabang). Ma Ruji was born in Donglianhua Village in 1897. He was the eldest of ten Ma brothers, so he was also called Uncle Ma (Ma Daye). In the late Republic of China era, Ma Ruji was the most famous local caravan leader (maguotou). He also served as a Menghua (Weishan) County councilor and head of Yongji Township (Yongjian Town), making him very wealthy and influential.
The Ma Ruji compound consists of three interconnected courtyards: the north, south, and west. The north and south courtyards were Ma Ruji's residence. They combine the traditional Dali architectural styles of a four-sided courtyard with five patios (sihe wutianjing) and a three-room layout with a screen wall (sanfang yizhaobi) to form a six-courtyard harmony (liuhe tongchun) layout.
Inside the main gate of the north and south courtyards, the screen wall (yingbi) is inscribed with the words "Forever Uphold the Pure Truth" (shishou qingzhen). This is the main difference between the traditional courtyards of the local Bai people and the Hui Muslims.
Visiting the Ma Ruji compound in 2017 and 2023, the biggest change is that the Arabic calligraphy unique to Weishan, Dali, which was on display indoors, has been replaced entirely by Chinese calligraphy. The original Arabic calligraphy had both exquisite artistic value and precious historical significance. These calligraphic works were presented to Ma Ruji in the autumn of 1945 by the then-Army General Bai Chongxi and the Menghua County Hui Muslim Anti-Japanese National Salvation Association.
In the 1930s, Long Yun selected caravan leaders (maguotou) from across the province to form the Long family horse caravan for trade with French merchants in Vietnam, and Ma Ruji was chosen to join. The Long family caravan traveled from Kunming through Baise and Guilin to trade in Vietnam. Once, while passing through Guilin, they happened to run into Bai Chongxi, who was celebrating his mother's birthday. Ma Ruji and his group were all invited as guests and received a warm welcome from Bai Chongxi, and from then on, Ma Ruji and Bai Chongxi became friends.
Above the east side room of the hall in the Ma Ruji courtyard stands a four-story watchtower. It serves for both keeping watch and enjoying the view, offering a full look at Donglianhua Village. The sunny photos were taken in 2023, and the cloudy ones were taken in 2017.
The murals in the Ma Ruji courtyard from different historical periods reflect the changes of the times.
In the early 1950s, Ma Ruji and several brothers went to northern Myanmar to make a living, and they settled in Thailand a few years later. In 1953, the Ma brothers and their fellow villager Hu Ranxian set out from Myanmar to perform the Hajj, becoming a Haji. After land reform, Ma Ruji's land and property in Yunnan were divided. The Ma Ruji courtyard and the back garden were taken for public use, serving as a commune, hospital, military camp, middle school, township government, and Islamic association office at different times. After 1996, the east and west rooms of the lower courtyard of the Ma Ruji compound were returned to the Ma family, while the watchtower of the upper courtyard and the back garden remained under the collective ownership of Donglianhua Village.
The west courtyard of the Ma Ruji compound was used to run the caravan business. It had its own north gate, a two-story row of 10 large horse stables, and a warehouse for caravan supplies. In the 1940s, Ma Ruji owned over 100 mules and horses and employed more than 30 caravan workers, making him very powerful.
Waist knife (yaodao).
Tools for shoeing horses.
Kerosene lamp (madeng).
The gong stick (manggun) and gong (mangluo) were used to send signals while the caravan was on the move. Experienced caravan leaders could tell which place and which family a caravan belonged to by the volume, speed, and rhythm of the gong, and they could tell if the signal meant danger, a request to pass, or a call for help.
Stirrup (madeng).
Bamboo woven bowl box (zhumiewanhe).
An exquisite saddle. view all
Summary: Weishan, Dali — Donglianhua Hui Caravan Courtyards (Part 1) is presented here as a firsthand travel account in clear English, beginning with this scene: On the afternoon of January 30, 2023, I rode my electric scooter to Donglianhua Village in Weishan, Dali, to visit the three Hui Muslim caravan courtyards there for the second time. The account keeps its focus on Weishan Dali, Hui Caravan Courtyards, Muslim Travel while preserving the names, places, food, and historical details from the Chinese source.
On the afternoon of January 30, 2023, I rode my electric scooter to Donglianhua Village in Weishan, Dali, to visit the three Hui Muslim caravan courtyards there for the second time. In 2017, I focused on visiting the Ma Ruji Courtyard, took a quick look around the Ma Ruqi Courtyard, but could not get into the Ma Ruqing Courtyard, which left me wanting more. At that time, I hoped to have a meal in one of the courtyards and chat with the descendants of the Ma family, and this time, that wish finally came true.
After the Ming Dynasty took control of Yunnan, Zhu Yuanzhang ordered Mu Ying to guard the region. Mu Ying sent some Hui Muslim soldiers under his command to farm in Weishan, Dali. They merged with the Semu people who had come there to trade during the Yuan Dynasty, forming many Hui Muslim villages around Yongjian Town. Donglianhua Village is now mainly home to residents with the surnames Ma and Zhang. The Ma family is known as the Sai family Ma, said to be descendants of Masuhu, the fifth son of the Yuan Dynasty politician Sayyid Ajjal Shams al-Din. The Zhang family are descendants of Hui Muslims from the Jiangnan region who settled there after following Mu Ying during the Ming Dynasty.
Donglianhua Village sits on the main route of the Ancient Tea Horse Road from Pu'er to Dali. Because the local Hui Muslims were skilled at raising horses, they started the business of running horse caravans. Around 1911, ten brothers from the Ma family in Donglianhua, including Ma Ruji, Ma Ruqi, and Ma Ruqing, began trading with horse caravans and gradually became famous caravan leaders (maguotou) in Southwest China. During the Republic of China era, almost every family in Donglianhua Village raised horses. The village had seven large horse caravans and frequent trade traffic, earning it the nickname Little Shanghai of Western Yunnan. In the 1940s, the Ma brothers' business reached its peak, and they competed to build exquisite Ma family courtyards.
After the 1940s, due to frequent caravan trade with Thailand and Myanmar, some people from Donglianhua Village began to settle in those countries, making Donglianhua a famous hometown for overseas Chinese in Yunnan. These overseas residents and their descendants have continuously donated money to protect the village and have made great contributions to Donglianhua.
Ma Ruqi Courtyard
Among the three Ma family courtyards in Donglianhua Village, only the Ma Ruqi Courtyard is still occupied by descendants of the Ma family today. They have opened a restaurant and a guesthouse there, which I think is a great starting point for understanding the modern history of Yunnan's Hui Muslims and caravan culture.
Uncle Ma Wenhong, a descendant of Ma Ruqi, welcomed me warmly. He prepared braised beef and white-cut chicken from the traditional Weishan Hui Muslim banquet known as the Eight Old Bowls (laobawan), as well as sticky rice with sugar, which is only eaten at local weddings. I felt very grateful (shukr).
I listened to Uncle Ma tell the history of the Ma Ruqi Courtyard while we ate. After the Tongzhi era disasters, a group of Hui Muslims with the surname Ma who survived moved from Xiaodonglianhua Village to the current Donglianhua Village. They rebuilt their homes together with a group of Hui Muslims with the surname Zhang who came with them, and Donglianhua Village gradually developed.
In the early years of the Republic of China, Ma Ruqi started his horse-trading business. After more than 20 years of hard work, he became a famous caravan leader (maguotou) in Sichuan, Guizhou, and Yunnan. The 1940s were the peak of the Ma brothers' business. Construction of the Ma Ruqi Courtyard began in 1942 and was officially completed in 1945 after three years.
The Ma Ruqi Courtyard consists of two typical Dali-style three-sided courtyards with a screen wall (sanfang yizhaobi). Both courtyards share one large screen wall, creating a layout of one screen wall for two courtyards. The southern building is a three-story stable with a watchtower, which looks very impressive. The main gate is a relief-carved archway without a porch. The brick pillars on both sides are topped with stone lions, common in Bai ethnic homes. The arch is decorated with colorful paintings of flowers, birds, and landscapes, and the words Qilu are written in the center of the gate.
Ma Ruqi was a major caravan leader in Donglianhua Village. The north courtyard was home to Ma Ruqi's family, while the south courtyard was used to run the caravan business. The southern stable was used to feed the horses, the side rooms provided living space for the caravan workers (majiaozi), and the east side room served as a storage area for supplies. Because the courtyard is located at the southernmost end of Donglianhua Village, right next to the main road into the village, and has a wide view to the southeast, a watchtower was built on the third floor of the southern stable to keep watch and guard against bandits and horse thieves.
In August 1945, Wang Shaoheng led more than 30 bandits to rob Donglianhua Village, and the watchtower of the caravan courtyard played an important role. At that time, the Ma brothers organized the villagers to fight off the bandits, and Ma Ruqi shot and killed the bandit leader Wang Shaoheng. Afterward, the magistrate of Menghua County personally came to Donglianhua Village to commend the Ma brothers.
Architectural details and the guesthouse section of the Ma Ruqi Courtyard. Business at the courtyard was poor from 2020 to 2022, and it was basically half-closed. It has only started to get better this year. Uncle Ma says he will also make further improvements to the guesthouse to welcome more guests.
Since Ma Zaixing went on Hajj in 1948, becoming the first from Menghua to do so, many others from the Ma family, including Ma Ruqi, Ma Ruxiang, and Ma Wenhan, have also made the pilgrimage. Because of this, the Ma family is known as a family that has kept the faith for three generations of Hajj pilgrims (haji).
Today, souvenirs from Ma Wenhan Haji's three pilgrimages still hang on the walls of the Ma Ruqi Courtyard, where you can see traditional Arabic calligraphy in the style of Weishan, Dali. other parts of the Ma Ruqi Courtyard also reflect the traditions of the faith. For example, one door frame has a couplet that reads: The spring breeze is boundless, bringing joy to all the land; the Lord's grace is vast, continuing through the generations. The horizontal scroll reads: Always remember the Lord's grace. As you enter the main gate, you will see a Chinese translation of the Al-Fatiha on the wall.
Beyond religious traditions, the Ma Ruqi Courtyard also keeps old items from the caravan era, including saddles, horse lanterns, and small scales (dengzi).
In the early 1950s, Ma Ruqi went to Myanmar to make a living, and after 1954 he settled in Chiang Mai, Thailand, where he worked in the local produce business and supported public welfare. He and his fellow Weishan native Hu Ranmao founded the Shandi Chinese School in Chiang Mai and helped renovate the Chiang Mai Wanghe Mosque. In 1974, Ma Ruqi was appointed president of the Thai-Chinese Chamber of Commerce. He later hosted many important guests from China and led the first delegation of Thai-Chinese to visit China for a tour in 1979. In 1987, when the Donglianhua Mosque was expanded, Ma Ruqi donated 1 million Thai baht.
After Ma Ruqi went abroad, the Ma Ruqi Courtyard was nationalized in the 1950s. His wife, Ma Huancai, who stayed in their hometown, remained devoted to her faith, managed the household, raised their son, and lived with her son Ma Wenhan. Ma Wenhan inherited the fine traditions of his elders; he was hardworking, frugal, kind, and passionate about public welfare. In 1993, following a change in policy, the Ma Ruqi Courtyard was finally returned to Ma Wenhan. After Ma Wenhan renovated the courtyard, he was able to spend his later years there.
Today, the courtyard has passed to Ma Wenhan's son, Ma Yunhong, who opened a restaurant and guesthouse inside so that guests can better understand and experience the local culture.
Ma Ruqing Courtyard
Built in 1945, the Ma Ruqing Courtyard consists of two watchtowers and three courtyards. At the main gate stands a three-story hexagonal watchtower, with a passageway on the ground floor. The east courtyard has a three-room-and-a-screen-wall (sanfang yizhaobi) layout, the west courtyard has a four-sided-enclosure-with-five-courtyards (sihe wutianjing) layout, and the middle courtyard serves as a garden, enclosed by the east and west halls and the north watchtower.
After Ma Ruqing followed his brothers Ma Ruji and Ma Ruqi to settle in Thailand in the 1950s, the Ma Ruqing Courtyard was nationalized. Today, the west courtyard remains public property, while the middle and east courtyards were bought by local Hui Muslims. When I first visited in 2017, I could not enter the courtyard because it was under renovation. This time, a friend (dosti) living in the middle courtyard led me inside to visit the west courtyard. According to the dosti, Donglianhua Village recently cleared and restored the west courtyard, removing parts added after the 1950s. It is not yet decided when it will open to the public.
In the middle courtyard of the Ma Ruqing compound, you can see a three-story watchtower right at the entrance, which was once where the Ma family received guests. One regret this time was that the people in the east courtyard were not home, so I could not go in. It looks like I will have to visit a third time.
Ma Ruji Compound
Built in 1941, the Ma Ruji compound is the most important Hui Muslim courtyard in Weishan and a witness to the prosperity of the Yunnan horse caravans (mabang). Ma Ruji was born in Donglianhua Village in 1897. He was the eldest of ten Ma brothers, so he was also called Uncle Ma (Ma Daye). In the late Republic of China era, Ma Ruji was the most famous local caravan leader (maguotou). He also served as a Menghua (Weishan) County councilor and head of Yongji Township (Yongjian Town), making him very wealthy and influential.
The Ma Ruji compound consists of three interconnected courtyards: the north, south, and west. The north and south courtyards were Ma Ruji's residence. They combine the traditional Dali architectural styles of a four-sided courtyard with five patios (sihe wutianjing) and a three-room layout with a screen wall (sanfang yizhaobi) to form a six-courtyard harmony (liuhe tongchun) layout.
Inside the main gate of the north and south courtyards, the screen wall (yingbi) is inscribed with the words "Forever Uphold the Pure Truth" (shishou qingzhen). This is the main difference between the traditional courtyards of the local Bai people and the Hui Muslims.
Visiting the Ma Ruji compound in 2017 and 2023, the biggest change is that the Arabic calligraphy unique to Weishan, Dali, which was on display indoors, has been replaced entirely by Chinese calligraphy. The original Arabic calligraphy had both exquisite artistic value and precious historical significance. These calligraphic works were presented to Ma Ruji in the autumn of 1945 by the then-Army General Bai Chongxi and the Menghua County Hui Muslim Anti-Japanese National Salvation Association.
In the 1930s, Long Yun selected caravan leaders (maguotou) from across the province to form the Long family horse caravan for trade with French merchants in Vietnam, and Ma Ruji was chosen to join. The Long family caravan traveled from Kunming through Baise and Guilin to trade in Vietnam. Once, while passing through Guilin, they happened to run into Bai Chongxi, who was celebrating his mother's birthday. Ma Ruji and his group were all invited as guests and received a warm welcome from Bai Chongxi, and from then on, Ma Ruji and Bai Chongxi became friends.
Above the east side room of the hall in the Ma Ruji courtyard stands a four-story watchtower. It serves for both keeping watch and enjoying the view, offering a full look at Donglianhua Village. The sunny photos were taken in 2023, and the cloudy ones were taken in 2017.
The murals in the Ma Ruji courtyard from different historical periods reflect the changes of the times.
In the early 1950s, Ma Ruji and several brothers went to northern Myanmar to make a living, and they settled in Thailand a few years later. In 1953, the Ma brothers and their fellow villager Hu Ranxian set out from Myanmar to perform the Hajj, becoming a Haji. After land reform, Ma Ruji's land and property in Yunnan were divided. The Ma Ruji courtyard and the back garden were taken for public use, serving as a commune, hospital, military camp, middle school, township government, and Islamic association office at different times. After 1996, the east and west rooms of the lower courtyard of the Ma Ruji compound were returned to the Ma family, while the watchtower of the upper courtyard and the back garden remained under the collective ownership of Donglianhua Village.
The west courtyard of the Ma Ruji compound was used to run the caravan business. It had its own north gate, a two-story row of 10 large horse stables, and a warehouse for caravan supplies. In the 1940s, Ma Ruji owned over 100 mules and horses and employed more than 30 caravan workers, making him very powerful.
Waist knife (yaodao).
Tools for shoeing horses.
Kerosene lamp (madeng).
The gong stick (manggun) and gong (mangluo) were used to send signals while the caravan was on the move. Experienced caravan leaders could tell which place and which family a caravan belonged to by the volume, speed, and rhythm of the gong, and they could tell if the signal meant danger, a request to pass, or a call for help.
Stirrup (madeng).
Bamboo woven bowl box (zhumiewanhe).
An exquisite saddle. view all
Reposted from the web
Summary: Weishan, Dali — Donglianhua Hui Caravan Courtyards (Part 1) is presented here as a firsthand travel account in clear English, beginning with this scene: On the afternoon of January 30, 2023, I rode my electric scooter to Donglianhua Village in Weishan, Dali, to visit the three Hui Muslim caravan courtyards there for the second time. The account keeps its focus on Weishan Dali, Hui Caravan Courtyards, Muslim Travel while preserving the names, places, food, and historical details from the Chinese source.
On the afternoon of January 30, 2023, I rode my electric scooter to Donglianhua Village in Weishan, Dali, to visit the three Hui Muslim caravan courtyards there for the second time. In 2017, I focused on visiting the Ma Ruji Courtyard, took a quick look around the Ma Ruqi Courtyard, but could not get into the Ma Ruqing Courtyard, which left me wanting more. At that time, I hoped to have a meal in one of the courtyards and chat with the descendants of the Ma family, and this time, that wish finally came true.
After the Ming Dynasty took control of Yunnan, Zhu Yuanzhang ordered Mu Ying to guard the region. Mu Ying sent some Hui Muslim soldiers under his command to farm in Weishan, Dali. They merged with the Semu people who had come there to trade during the Yuan Dynasty, forming many Hui Muslim villages around Yongjian Town. Donglianhua Village is now mainly home to residents with the surnames Ma and Zhang. The Ma family is known as the Sai family Ma, said to be descendants of Masuhu, the fifth son of the Yuan Dynasty politician Sayyid Ajjal Shams al-Din. The Zhang family are descendants of Hui Muslims from the Jiangnan region who settled there after following Mu Ying during the Ming Dynasty.
Donglianhua Village sits on the main route of the Ancient Tea Horse Road from Pu'er to Dali. Because the local Hui Muslims were skilled at raising horses, they started the business of running horse caravans. Around 1911, ten brothers from the Ma family in Donglianhua, including Ma Ruji, Ma Ruqi, and Ma Ruqing, began trading with horse caravans and gradually became famous caravan leaders (maguotou) in Southwest China. During the Republic of China era, almost every family in Donglianhua Village raised horses. The village had seven large horse caravans and frequent trade traffic, earning it the nickname Little Shanghai of Western Yunnan. In the 1940s, the Ma brothers' business reached its peak, and they competed to build exquisite Ma family courtyards.
After the 1940s, due to frequent caravan trade with Thailand and Myanmar, some people from Donglianhua Village began to settle in those countries, making Donglianhua a famous hometown for overseas Chinese in Yunnan. These overseas residents and their descendants have continuously donated money to protect the village and have made great contributions to Donglianhua.
Ma Ruqi Courtyard
Among the three Ma family courtyards in Donglianhua Village, only the Ma Ruqi Courtyard is still occupied by descendants of the Ma family today. They have opened a restaurant and a guesthouse there, which I think is a great starting point for understanding the modern history of Yunnan's Hui Muslims and caravan culture.
Uncle Ma Wenhong, a descendant of Ma Ruqi, welcomed me warmly. He prepared braised beef and white-cut chicken from the traditional Weishan Hui Muslim banquet known as the Eight Old Bowls (laobawan), as well as sticky rice with sugar, which is only eaten at local weddings. I felt very grateful (shukr).
I listened to Uncle Ma tell the history of the Ma Ruqi Courtyard while we ate. After the Tongzhi era disasters, a group of Hui Muslims with the surname Ma who survived moved from Xiaodonglianhua Village to the current Donglianhua Village. They rebuilt their homes together with a group of Hui Muslims with the surname Zhang who came with them, and Donglianhua Village gradually developed.
In the early years of the Republic of China, Ma Ruqi started his horse-trading business. After more than 20 years of hard work, he became a famous caravan leader (maguotou) in Sichuan, Guizhou, and Yunnan. The 1940s were the peak of the Ma brothers' business. Construction of the Ma Ruqi Courtyard began in 1942 and was officially completed in 1945 after three years.
The Ma Ruqi Courtyard consists of two typical Dali-style three-sided courtyards with a screen wall (sanfang yizhaobi). Both courtyards share one large screen wall, creating a layout of one screen wall for two courtyards. The southern building is a three-story stable with a watchtower, which looks very impressive. The main gate is a relief-carved archway without a porch. The brick pillars on both sides are topped with stone lions, common in Bai ethnic homes. The arch is decorated with colorful paintings of flowers, birds, and landscapes, and the words Qilu are written in the center of the gate.
Ma Ruqi was a major caravan leader in Donglianhua Village. The north courtyard was home to Ma Ruqi's family, while the south courtyard was used to run the caravan business. The southern stable was used to feed the horses, the side rooms provided living space for the caravan workers (majiaozi), and the east side room served as a storage area for supplies. Because the courtyard is located at the southernmost end of Donglianhua Village, right next to the main road into the village, and has a wide view to the southeast, a watchtower was built on the third floor of the southern stable to keep watch and guard against bandits and horse thieves.
In August 1945, Wang Shaoheng led more than 30 bandits to rob Donglianhua Village, and the watchtower of the caravan courtyard played an important role. At that time, the Ma brothers organized the villagers to fight off the bandits, and Ma Ruqi shot and killed the bandit leader Wang Shaoheng. Afterward, the magistrate of Menghua County personally came to Donglianhua Village to commend the Ma brothers.
Architectural details and the guesthouse section of the Ma Ruqi Courtyard. Business at the courtyard was poor from 2020 to 2022, and it was basically half-closed. It has only started to get better this year. Uncle Ma says he will also make further improvements to the guesthouse to welcome more guests.
Since Ma Zaixing went on Hajj in 1948, becoming the first from Menghua to do so, many others from the Ma family, including Ma Ruqi, Ma Ruxiang, and Ma Wenhan, have also made the pilgrimage. Because of this, the Ma family is known as a family that has kept the faith for three generations of Hajj pilgrims (haji).
Today, souvenirs from Ma Wenhan Haji's three pilgrimages still hang on the walls of the Ma Ruqi Courtyard, where you can see traditional Arabic calligraphy in the style of Weishan, Dali. other parts of the Ma Ruqi Courtyard also reflect the traditions of the faith. For example, one door frame has a couplet that reads: The spring breeze is boundless, bringing joy to all the land; the Lord's grace is vast, continuing through the generations. The horizontal scroll reads: Always remember the Lord's grace. As you enter the main gate, you will see a Chinese translation of the Al-Fatiha on the wall.
Beyond religious traditions, the Ma Ruqi Courtyard also keeps old items from the caravan era, including saddles, horse lanterns, and small scales (dengzi).
In the early 1950s, Ma Ruqi went to Myanmar to make a living, and after 1954 he settled in Chiang Mai, Thailand, where he worked in the local produce business and supported public welfare. He and his fellow Weishan native Hu Ranmao founded the Shandi Chinese School in Chiang Mai and helped renovate the Chiang Mai Wanghe Mosque. In 1974, Ma Ruqi was appointed president of the Thai-Chinese Chamber of Commerce. He later hosted many important guests from China and led the first delegation of Thai-Chinese to visit China for a tour in 1979. In 1987, when the Donglianhua Mosque was expanded, Ma Ruqi donated 1 million Thai baht.
After Ma Ruqi went abroad, the Ma Ruqi Courtyard was nationalized in the 1950s. His wife, Ma Huancai, who stayed in their hometown, remained devoted to her faith, managed the household, raised their son, and lived with her son Ma Wenhan. Ma Wenhan inherited the fine traditions of his elders; he was hardworking, frugal, kind, and passionate about public welfare. In 1993, following a change in policy, the Ma Ruqi Courtyard was finally returned to Ma Wenhan. After Ma Wenhan renovated the courtyard, he was able to spend his later years there.
Today, the courtyard has passed to Ma Wenhan's son, Ma Yunhong, who opened a restaurant and guesthouse inside so that guests can better understand and experience the local culture.
Ma Ruqing Courtyard
Built in 1945, the Ma Ruqing Courtyard consists of two watchtowers and three courtyards. At the main gate stands a three-story hexagonal watchtower, with a passageway on the ground floor. The east courtyard has a three-room-and-a-screen-wall (sanfang yizhaobi) layout, the west courtyard has a four-sided-enclosure-with-five-courtyards (sihe wutianjing) layout, and the middle courtyard serves as a garden, enclosed by the east and west halls and the north watchtower.
After Ma Ruqing followed his brothers Ma Ruji and Ma Ruqi to settle in Thailand in the 1950s, the Ma Ruqing Courtyard was nationalized. Today, the west courtyard remains public property, while the middle and east courtyards were bought by local Hui Muslims. When I first visited in 2017, I could not enter the courtyard because it was under renovation. This time, a friend (dosti) living in the middle courtyard led me inside to visit the west courtyard. According to the dosti, Donglianhua Village recently cleared and restored the west courtyard, removing parts added after the 1950s. It is not yet decided when it will open to the public.
In the middle courtyard of the Ma Ruqing compound, you can see a three-story watchtower right at the entrance, which was once where the Ma family received guests. One regret this time was that the people in the east courtyard were not home, so I could not go in. It looks like I will have to visit a third time.
Ma Ruji Compound
Built in 1941, the Ma Ruji compound is the most important Hui Muslim courtyard in Weishan and a witness to the prosperity of the Yunnan horse caravans (mabang). Ma Ruji was born in Donglianhua Village in 1897. He was the eldest of ten Ma brothers, so he was also called Uncle Ma (Ma Daye). In the late Republic of China era, Ma Ruji was the most famous local caravan leader (maguotou). He also served as a Menghua (Weishan) County councilor and head of Yongji Township (Yongjian Town), making him very wealthy and influential.
The Ma Ruji compound consists of three interconnected courtyards: the north, south, and west. The north and south courtyards were Ma Ruji's residence. They combine the traditional Dali architectural styles of a four-sided courtyard with five patios (sihe wutianjing) and a three-room layout with a screen wall (sanfang yizhaobi) to form a six-courtyard harmony (liuhe tongchun) layout.
Inside the main gate of the north and south courtyards, the screen wall (yingbi) is inscribed with the words "Forever Uphold the Pure Truth" (shishou qingzhen). This is the main difference between the traditional courtyards of the local Bai people and the Hui Muslims.
Visiting the Ma Ruji compound in 2017 and 2023, the biggest change is that the Arabic calligraphy unique to Weishan, Dali, which was on display indoors, has been replaced entirely by Chinese calligraphy. The original Arabic calligraphy had both exquisite artistic value and precious historical significance. These calligraphic works were presented to Ma Ruji in the autumn of 1945 by the then-Army General Bai Chongxi and the Menghua County Hui Muslim Anti-Japanese National Salvation Association.
In the 1930s, Long Yun selected caravan leaders (maguotou) from across the province to form the Long family horse caravan for trade with French merchants in Vietnam, and Ma Ruji was chosen to join. The Long family caravan traveled from Kunming through Baise and Guilin to trade in Vietnam. Once, while passing through Guilin, they happened to run into Bai Chongxi, who was celebrating his mother's birthday. Ma Ruji and his group were all invited as guests and received a warm welcome from Bai Chongxi, and from then on, Ma Ruji and Bai Chongxi became friends.
Above the east side room of the hall in the Ma Ruji courtyard stands a four-story watchtower. It serves for both keeping watch and enjoying the view, offering a full look at Donglianhua Village. The sunny photos were taken in 2023, and the cloudy ones were taken in 2017.
The murals in the Ma Ruji courtyard from different historical periods reflect the changes of the times.
In the early 1950s, Ma Ruji and several brothers went to northern Myanmar to make a living, and they settled in Thailand a few years later. In 1953, the Ma brothers and their fellow villager Hu Ranxian set out from Myanmar to perform the Hajj, becoming a Haji. After land reform, Ma Ruji's land and property in Yunnan were divided. The Ma Ruji courtyard and the back garden were taken for public use, serving as a commune, hospital, military camp, middle school, township government, and Islamic association office at different times. After 1996, the east and west rooms of the lower courtyard of the Ma Ruji compound were returned to the Ma family, while the watchtower of the upper courtyard and the back garden remained under the collective ownership of Donglianhua Village.
The west courtyard of the Ma Ruji compound was used to run the caravan business. It had its own north gate, a two-story row of 10 large horse stables, and a warehouse for caravan supplies. In the 1940s, Ma Ruji owned over 100 mules and horses and employed more than 30 caravan workers, making him very powerful.
Waist knife (yaodao).
Tools for shoeing horses.
Kerosene lamp (madeng).
The gong stick (manggun) and gong (mangluo) were used to send signals while the caravan was on the move. Experienced caravan leaders could tell which place and which family a caravan belonged to by the volume, speed, and rhythm of the gong, and they could tell if the signal meant danger, a request to pass, or a call for help.
Stirrup (madeng).
Bamboo woven bowl box (zhumiewanhe).
An exquisite saddle.
Summary: Weishan, Dali — Donglianhua Hui Caravan Courtyards (Part 1) is presented here as a firsthand travel account in clear English, beginning with this scene: On the afternoon of January 30, 2023, I rode my electric scooter to Donglianhua Village in Weishan, Dali, to visit the three Hui Muslim caravan courtyards there for the second time. The account keeps its focus on Weishan Dali, Hui Caravan Courtyards, Muslim Travel while preserving the names, places, food, and historical details from the Chinese source.
On the afternoon of January 30, 2023, I rode my electric scooter to Donglianhua Village in Weishan, Dali, to visit the three Hui Muslim caravan courtyards there for the second time. In 2017, I focused on visiting the Ma Ruji Courtyard, took a quick look around the Ma Ruqi Courtyard, but could not get into the Ma Ruqing Courtyard, which left me wanting more. At that time, I hoped to have a meal in one of the courtyards and chat with the descendants of the Ma family, and this time, that wish finally came true.
After the Ming Dynasty took control of Yunnan, Zhu Yuanzhang ordered Mu Ying to guard the region. Mu Ying sent some Hui Muslim soldiers under his command to farm in Weishan, Dali. They merged with the Semu people who had come there to trade during the Yuan Dynasty, forming many Hui Muslim villages around Yongjian Town. Donglianhua Village is now mainly home to residents with the surnames Ma and Zhang. The Ma family is known as the Sai family Ma, said to be descendants of Masuhu, the fifth son of the Yuan Dynasty politician Sayyid Ajjal Shams al-Din. The Zhang family are descendants of Hui Muslims from the Jiangnan region who settled there after following Mu Ying during the Ming Dynasty.
Donglianhua Village sits on the main route of the Ancient Tea Horse Road from Pu'er to Dali. Because the local Hui Muslims were skilled at raising horses, they started the business of running horse caravans. Around 1911, ten brothers from the Ma family in Donglianhua, including Ma Ruji, Ma Ruqi, and Ma Ruqing, began trading with horse caravans and gradually became famous caravan leaders (maguotou) in Southwest China. During the Republic of China era, almost every family in Donglianhua Village raised horses. The village had seven large horse caravans and frequent trade traffic, earning it the nickname Little Shanghai of Western Yunnan. In the 1940s, the Ma brothers' business reached its peak, and they competed to build exquisite Ma family courtyards.
After the 1940s, due to frequent caravan trade with Thailand and Myanmar, some people from Donglianhua Village began to settle in those countries, making Donglianhua a famous hometown for overseas Chinese in Yunnan. These overseas residents and their descendants have continuously donated money to protect the village and have made great contributions to Donglianhua.
Ma Ruqi Courtyard
Among the three Ma family courtyards in Donglianhua Village, only the Ma Ruqi Courtyard is still occupied by descendants of the Ma family today. They have opened a restaurant and a guesthouse there, which I think is a great starting point for understanding the modern history of Yunnan's Hui Muslims and caravan culture.
Uncle Ma Wenhong, a descendant of Ma Ruqi, welcomed me warmly. He prepared braised beef and white-cut chicken from the traditional Weishan Hui Muslim banquet known as the Eight Old Bowls (laobawan), as well as sticky rice with sugar, which is only eaten at local weddings. I felt very grateful (shukr).
I listened to Uncle Ma tell the history of the Ma Ruqi Courtyard while we ate. After the Tongzhi era disasters, a group of Hui Muslims with the surname Ma who survived moved from Xiaodonglianhua Village to the current Donglianhua Village. They rebuilt their homes together with a group of Hui Muslims with the surname Zhang who came with them, and Donglianhua Village gradually developed.
In the early years of the Republic of China, Ma Ruqi started his horse-trading business. After more than 20 years of hard work, he became a famous caravan leader (maguotou) in Sichuan, Guizhou, and Yunnan. The 1940s were the peak of the Ma brothers' business. Construction of the Ma Ruqi Courtyard began in 1942 and was officially completed in 1945 after three years.
The Ma Ruqi Courtyard consists of two typical Dali-style three-sided courtyards with a screen wall (sanfang yizhaobi). Both courtyards share one large screen wall, creating a layout of one screen wall for two courtyards. The southern building is a three-story stable with a watchtower, which looks very impressive. The main gate is a relief-carved archway without a porch. The brick pillars on both sides are topped with stone lions, common in Bai ethnic homes. The arch is decorated with colorful paintings of flowers, birds, and landscapes, and the words Qilu are written in the center of the gate.
Ma Ruqi was a major caravan leader in Donglianhua Village. The north courtyard was home to Ma Ruqi's family, while the south courtyard was used to run the caravan business. The southern stable was used to feed the horses, the side rooms provided living space for the caravan workers (majiaozi), and the east side room served as a storage area for supplies. Because the courtyard is located at the southernmost end of Donglianhua Village, right next to the main road into the village, and has a wide view to the southeast, a watchtower was built on the third floor of the southern stable to keep watch and guard against bandits and horse thieves.
In August 1945, Wang Shaoheng led more than 30 bandits to rob Donglianhua Village, and the watchtower of the caravan courtyard played an important role. At that time, the Ma brothers organized the villagers to fight off the bandits, and Ma Ruqi shot and killed the bandit leader Wang Shaoheng. Afterward, the magistrate of Menghua County personally came to Donglianhua Village to commend the Ma brothers.
Architectural details and the guesthouse section of the Ma Ruqi Courtyard. Business at the courtyard was poor from 2020 to 2022, and it was basically half-closed. It has only started to get better this year. Uncle Ma says he will also make further improvements to the guesthouse to welcome more guests.
Since Ma Zaixing went on Hajj in 1948, becoming the first from Menghua to do so, many others from the Ma family, including Ma Ruqi, Ma Ruxiang, and Ma Wenhan, have also made the pilgrimage. Because of this, the Ma family is known as a family that has kept the faith for three generations of Hajj pilgrims (haji).
Today, souvenirs from Ma Wenhan Haji's three pilgrimages still hang on the walls of the Ma Ruqi Courtyard, where you can see traditional Arabic calligraphy in the style of Weishan, Dali. other parts of the Ma Ruqi Courtyard also reflect the traditions of the faith. For example, one door frame has a couplet that reads: The spring breeze is boundless, bringing joy to all the land; the Lord's grace is vast, continuing through the generations. The horizontal scroll reads: Always remember the Lord's grace. As you enter the main gate, you will see a Chinese translation of the Al-Fatiha on the wall.
Beyond religious traditions, the Ma Ruqi Courtyard also keeps old items from the caravan era, including saddles, horse lanterns, and small scales (dengzi).
In the early 1950s, Ma Ruqi went to Myanmar to make a living, and after 1954 he settled in Chiang Mai, Thailand, where he worked in the local produce business and supported public welfare. He and his fellow Weishan native Hu Ranmao founded the Shandi Chinese School in Chiang Mai and helped renovate the Chiang Mai Wanghe Mosque. In 1974, Ma Ruqi was appointed president of the Thai-Chinese Chamber of Commerce. He later hosted many important guests from China and led the first delegation of Thai-Chinese to visit China for a tour in 1979. In 1987, when the Donglianhua Mosque was expanded, Ma Ruqi donated 1 million Thai baht.
After Ma Ruqi went abroad, the Ma Ruqi Courtyard was nationalized in the 1950s. His wife, Ma Huancai, who stayed in their hometown, remained devoted to her faith, managed the household, raised their son, and lived with her son Ma Wenhan. Ma Wenhan inherited the fine traditions of his elders; he was hardworking, frugal, kind, and passionate about public welfare. In 1993, following a change in policy, the Ma Ruqi Courtyard was finally returned to Ma Wenhan. After Ma Wenhan renovated the courtyard, he was able to spend his later years there.
Today, the courtyard has passed to Ma Wenhan's son, Ma Yunhong, who opened a restaurant and guesthouse inside so that guests can better understand and experience the local culture.
Ma Ruqing Courtyard
Built in 1945, the Ma Ruqing Courtyard consists of two watchtowers and three courtyards. At the main gate stands a three-story hexagonal watchtower, with a passageway on the ground floor. The east courtyard has a three-room-and-a-screen-wall (sanfang yizhaobi) layout, the west courtyard has a four-sided-enclosure-with-five-courtyards (sihe wutianjing) layout, and the middle courtyard serves as a garden, enclosed by the east and west halls and the north watchtower.
After Ma Ruqing followed his brothers Ma Ruji and Ma Ruqi to settle in Thailand in the 1950s, the Ma Ruqing Courtyard was nationalized. Today, the west courtyard remains public property, while the middle and east courtyards were bought by local Hui Muslims. When I first visited in 2017, I could not enter the courtyard because it was under renovation. This time, a friend (dosti) living in the middle courtyard led me inside to visit the west courtyard. According to the dosti, Donglianhua Village recently cleared and restored the west courtyard, removing parts added after the 1950s. It is not yet decided when it will open to the public.
In the middle courtyard of the Ma Ruqing compound, you can see a three-story watchtower right at the entrance, which was once where the Ma family received guests. One regret this time was that the people in the east courtyard were not home, so I could not go in. It looks like I will have to visit a third time.
Ma Ruji Compound
Built in 1941, the Ma Ruji compound is the most important Hui Muslim courtyard in Weishan and a witness to the prosperity of the Yunnan horse caravans (mabang). Ma Ruji was born in Donglianhua Village in 1897. He was the eldest of ten Ma brothers, so he was also called Uncle Ma (Ma Daye). In the late Republic of China era, Ma Ruji was the most famous local caravan leader (maguotou). He also served as a Menghua (Weishan) County councilor and head of Yongji Township (Yongjian Town), making him very wealthy and influential.
The Ma Ruji compound consists of three interconnected courtyards: the north, south, and west. The north and south courtyards were Ma Ruji's residence. They combine the traditional Dali architectural styles of a four-sided courtyard with five patios (sihe wutianjing) and a three-room layout with a screen wall (sanfang yizhaobi) to form a six-courtyard harmony (liuhe tongchun) layout.
Inside the main gate of the north and south courtyards, the screen wall (yingbi) is inscribed with the words "Forever Uphold the Pure Truth" (shishou qingzhen). This is the main difference between the traditional courtyards of the local Bai people and the Hui Muslims.
Visiting the Ma Ruji compound in 2017 and 2023, the biggest change is that the Arabic calligraphy unique to Weishan, Dali, which was on display indoors, has been replaced entirely by Chinese calligraphy. The original Arabic calligraphy had both exquisite artistic value and precious historical significance. These calligraphic works were presented to Ma Ruji in the autumn of 1945 by the then-Army General Bai Chongxi and the Menghua County Hui Muslim Anti-Japanese National Salvation Association.
In the 1930s, Long Yun selected caravan leaders (maguotou) from across the province to form the Long family horse caravan for trade with French merchants in Vietnam, and Ma Ruji was chosen to join. The Long family caravan traveled from Kunming through Baise and Guilin to trade in Vietnam. Once, while passing through Guilin, they happened to run into Bai Chongxi, who was celebrating his mother's birthday. Ma Ruji and his group were all invited as guests and received a warm welcome from Bai Chongxi, and from then on, Ma Ruji and Bai Chongxi became friends.
Above the east side room of the hall in the Ma Ruji courtyard stands a four-story watchtower. It serves for both keeping watch and enjoying the view, offering a full look at Donglianhua Village. The sunny photos were taken in 2023, and the cloudy ones were taken in 2017.
The murals in the Ma Ruji courtyard from different historical periods reflect the changes of the times.
In the early 1950s, Ma Ruji and several brothers went to northern Myanmar to make a living, and they settled in Thailand a few years later. In 1953, the Ma brothers and their fellow villager Hu Ranxian set out from Myanmar to perform the Hajj, becoming a Haji. After land reform, Ma Ruji's land and property in Yunnan were divided. The Ma Ruji courtyard and the back garden were taken for public use, serving as a commune, hospital, military camp, middle school, township government, and Islamic association office at different times. After 1996, the east and west rooms of the lower courtyard of the Ma Ruji compound were returned to the Ma family, while the watchtower of the upper courtyard and the back garden remained under the collective ownership of Donglianhua Village.
The west courtyard of the Ma Ruji compound was used to run the caravan business. It had its own north gate, a two-story row of 10 large horse stables, and a warehouse for caravan supplies. In the 1940s, Ma Ruji owned over 100 mules and horses and employed more than 30 caravan workers, making him very powerful.
Waist knife (yaodao).
Tools for shoeing horses.
Kerosene lamp (madeng).
The gong stick (manggun) and gong (mangluo) were used to send signals while the caravan was on the move. Experienced caravan leaders could tell which place and which family a caravan belonged to by the volume, speed, and rhythm of the gong, and they could tell if the signal meant danger, a request to pass, or a call for help.
Stirrup (madeng).
Bamboo woven bowl box (zhumiewanhe).
An exquisite saddle.
Halal Travel Guide: Weishan, Dali — Donglianhua Hui Caravan Courtyards (Part 2)
Articles • ali2007fr posted the article • 0 comments • 52 views • 2026-05-18 22:05
Reposted from the web
Summary: Weishan, Dali — Donglianhua Hui Caravan Courtyards (Part 2) is presented here as a firsthand travel account in clear English, beginning with this scene: Thawab. The account keeps its focus on Weishan Dali, Hui Caravan Courtyards, Muslim Travel while preserving the names, places, food, and historical details from the Chinese source.
Thawab view all
Summary: Weishan, Dali — Donglianhua Hui Caravan Courtyards (Part 2) is presented here as a firsthand travel account in clear English, beginning with this scene: Thawab. The account keeps its focus on Weishan Dali, Hui Caravan Courtyards, Muslim Travel while preserving the names, places, food, and historical details from the Chinese source.
Thawab view all
Reposted from the web
Summary: Weishan, Dali — Donglianhua Hui Caravan Courtyards (Part 2) is presented here as a firsthand travel account in clear English, beginning with this scene: Thawab. The account keeps its focus on Weishan Dali, Hui Caravan Courtyards, Muslim Travel while preserving the names, places, food, and historical details from the Chinese source.
Thawab
Summary: Weishan, Dali — Donglianhua Hui Caravan Courtyards (Part 2) is presented here as a firsthand travel account in clear English, beginning with this scene: Thawab. The account keeps its focus on Weishan Dali, Hui Caravan Courtyards, Muslim Travel while preserving the names, places, food, and historical details from the Chinese source.
Thawab