Halal Travel Guide: Brunei Part 1 — Mountain Castles, Malay History & Muslim Culture
Reposted from the web
Summary: This first part of the Brunei journey follows historic sites from hilltop fortifications to places tied to Malay royal and Muslim culture. The English version preserves the original route, images, place names, and historical notes from the Chinese source.
Entering Brunei
I took a Royal Brunei Airlines flight from Kuching in the afternoon and arrived in Bandar Seri Begawan, Brunei's capital and only city, in just over an hour. After getting off the plane, follow the crowd to the immigration counters where you will see a row specifically for visa-on-arrival. Staff members will check in advance if you are holding a Chinese passport. When entering, just show your prepared flight itinerary and accommodation booking. You do not need to print the electronic arrival card or health declaration if you have filled them out online. Then, pay the visa fee with a VISA card to complete the entry process.
After clearing immigration, I exchanged some Malaysian Ringgit for Brunei Dollars and installed the SIM card I had bought in advance. I had already installed Dart, Brunei's local ride-hailing app, on my phone. It supports both VISA card and cash payments, and it is quite fast at getting a car. Note that the pickup point for ride-hailing cars is in the side parking lot. Walk from the airport entrance toward the direction of the airport mosque, then follow the canopy until you reach the end to find it.
We stayed at the J Hotel for our first night. The hotel environment is nice, and it is not far from the Gadong Night Market and the Jame' Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque. After checking into the hotel, we walked over to the Jame' Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque.
My first impression of downtown Brunei is that everyone drives everywhere; there are basically no pedestrians on the streets. It feels like the whole city was designed for cars, and there are very few crosswalks. The city has low density and lots of greenery, making it feel like a garden city for cars. Our hotel was only about 300 meters away from the mosque as the crow flies, but it took 15 minutes to walk there. This is because you have to walk along the road for a long time before finding a place to cross, and then you must walk through a parking lot over 200 meters long inside the mosque grounds to reach the main prayer hall.
Brunei's two national mosques
The Jame' Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque is one of Brunei's two national mosques and the largest mosque in the country. The mosque was built by Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah to celebrate his 25th anniversary on the throne and officially opened in 1994. The 29 golden domes of the mosque commemorate the 29th Sultan of Brunei. The five fountains symbolize the five daily prayers and the five pillars of Islam. The mihrab (prayer niche) is decorated with gold-plated tiles. The interior is very magnificent, featuring Persian carpets, Italian marble, and Philippine hardwood.
The night view of the Brunei mosque is more beautiful than during the day. For those who want to take photos, I recommend coming during the times for prayer.
The Jame' Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque during the day. The main prayer hall is connected to the women's prayer hall by a corridor. This is a rare example of an independent women's prayer hall in Southeast Asia, and it is very large. Below the women's prayer hall is the ablution area (shuifang), and it is the only one I have ever visited that uses motion-sensor faucets.
For Friday prayers (Jumu'ah), we went to Brunei's other national mosque, the Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, which is also known as the 'Water Mosque'. Brunei requires all malls and restaurants to close between 12:00 PM and 2:00 PM, so the mosque was packed during Jumu'ah, with the entire main hall full, which was a spectacular sight.
The Water Mosque was built between 1954 and 1958 by the former Sultan of Brunei, Omar Ali Saifuddien III (who reigned from 1950 to 1967), and it is named after him. The main hall features a golden dome in the Mughal Revival style, and the interior uses Italian marble, Shanghai granite, British chandeliers, and Venetian mosaic glass, making it Brunei's most important landmark since its completion.
The minbar (pulpit) at the Water Mosque has two levels; the first is where the muezzin calls the adhan (bangke), and the second is where the imam delivers the khutbah (hutubai). Next to the minbar, there is a staircase leading to the second-floor prayer area reserved for the royal family.
After Jumu'ah, they were handing out boxed meals, mostly to South Asian laborers, and I also went over to get a bottle of water.
The Water Mosque during the times of the morning prayer (shamu) and the afternoon prayer (hufu tan). Both of Brunei's national mosques look better at night than during the day.
The earliest historical relics of Brunei are in China.
The Brunei History Centre has a replica of the 'Tombstone of the King of Boni' from Nanjing, and the full text is on display.
The Tomb of the King of Boni in Nanjing is commonly known as the Ma Huihui Tomb, and it is the burial site of the Bruneian Sultan Mana'naja. In 1405 (the third year of the Yongle reign), Sultan Mana'naja of Boni sent envoys to pay tribute to the Ming Dynasty, and he was granted the title of King of Boni and given many gifts. In 1408 (the sixth year of the Yongle reign), the Sultan led a delegation of over 150 people to Fujian, then traveled to Nanjing to meet the Yongle Emperor, Zhu Di, where he was treated with great honor. A month later, the Sultan suddenly fell ill and passed away at the Huitong Hall in Nanjing. According to the Sultan's final wish to 'have his body buried in China,' the Yongle Emperor ordered that he be buried with royal honors at Shizigang, outside Andemen Gate in Nanjing. After the Qing Dynasty, the tombstone was lost for a time, but the remaining parts were finally found in 1958, though unfortunately, the top of the stone has never been recovered.
The story of Sultan Mana'naja is recorded in the 'History of Ming' (Ming Shi), but it does not appear in Bruneian history books, nor is it in the Bruneian royal genealogy, the 'Salasilah Raja-Raja Brunei'. Bruneian historians believe Sultan Mana'naja is one of the sultans not mentioned in the genealogy.
The original Nanjing tombstone that I photographed a few years ago.
The ancient city in the mountains of Brunei.
I took a taxi from the city center to the ruins of the Brunei Sultanate palace hidden in the tropical rainforest, the Kota Batu Archaeological Park (Taman Arkeologi Kota Batu), which is also Brunei's most important archaeological site.
Kota Batu is believed to have been the capital of the Brunei Sultanate from the 14th to the 17th century. It was once an important trade port in Southeast Asia and the central city of northern Borneo. In 1521, Italian explorer Antonio Pigafetta arrived in Brunei with Magellan's fleet. He recorded: 'This city is built entirely on the sea, with 25,000 households, excluding the homes of the Sultan and certain heads of state.' A civil war in the Brunei Sultanate between 1660 and 1673 led to the abandonment of Kota Batu. The Sultan of Brunei moved his palace to the water village of Kampong Ayer on the upper Brunei River.
Kota Batu means 'stone castle.' It is a rare site of stone architecture in Brunei. British naturalist and Sarawak Museum curator Tom Harrisson led the first archaeological excavations at Kota Batu from 1952 to 1953. He found many Chinese coins from the Tang, Song, and Ming dynasties, as well as Arabic coins, glassware, ironware, bronze, wooden tools, stone carvings, and ceramics from Siam, Indochina, and Song and Ming dynasty China.
During excavations in 1986 and 1987, a square stone building measuring 25.8 meters by 25.4 meters was discovered. It contained 36 stone column bases, tombstone remains, and Ming dynasty porcelain shards. It is believed the building was constructed in the 15th century. Because the column bases are in three layers, the building likely had a three-tiered pyramid roof structure similar to traditional mosques in Malacca. Although early palace buildings in the Brunei Sultanate were made of wood and left few traces, the coins and pottery found at Kota Batu suggest the Sultan's palace was likely near this site.
Next to the site are nine graves of Brunei nobles from the 15th and 16th centuries. The tombstones were all imported, likely from China.
The paths in Kota Batu Archaeological Park feel like a primitive forest. There were no other tourists, and the mountain trails were often covered by fallen leaves and hidden from view. It is hard to imagine that this was once the capital of Brunei.
Tomb of the Third Sultan of Brunei
The Kota Batu Archaeological Park contains the tomb of Sharif Ali, the third Sultan of Brunei.
Sultan Sharif Ali (reigned 1425–1432) was originally a missionary from the ancient Saudi city of Taif and a descendant of the Prophet's grandson, Hasan ibn Ali. He arrived in Brunei to preach in 1395 and earned the respect of the Sultan and the people. He married the daughter of Sultan Ahmad around 1400 and inherited the throne after the old Sultan passed away in 1425. This is how the Brunei Sultanate gained its lineage from the Prophet.
Sultan Sharif Ali worked to spread Islamic law while keeping local customs that did not conflict with the faith. During his reign, Brunei officially transitioned from a Hindu-Buddhist cultural zone into a part of Islamic civilization. He built the first mosque in Brunei, designed the national flag, and established the title 'Darussalam' for Brunei. It is believed that he may have also built the stone castle at Kota Batu.
North of Sultan Sharif Ali's tomb is the grave of Syarif Adam, another sage who came to Brunei with the Sultan to preach. Together, they spread the influence of the faith from Brunei to the Sulu Archipelago and Mindanao in the southern Philippines. According to his tombstone, Syarif Adam passed away in 1454.
Tomb of the Brunei Princess
In the center of the old town of Brunei, there is the tomb of Raja Ayang. Legend says Raja Ayang was a royal family member during the reign of Sultan Sulaiman (reigned 1432-1485) of Brunei in the 15th century. Some research suggests she might be Rokayah, the daughter of Sultan Abdul Majid Hassan who passed away in Nanjing.
People say Raja Ayang had an affair with her own brother. Sultan Sulaiman punished them by locking them in a small, man-made cave that only had one air vent connecting to the outside. The Sultan provided them with enough food to live inside the cave. If no cooking smoke rose from the air vent, it meant they had passed away. Later, people built the tomb of Raja Ayang next to the small hill.
The small hill of Raja Ayang's tomb lasted until the 1950s. It was torn down to build a nearby post office and radio station, but the tomb itself was preserved. The inscription is blurry from years of people lighting candles for dua, but you can still see verses and the year 859 in the Islamic calendar (1454 AD), which is likely the date Raja Ayang passed away.
Tomb of the Fifth Sultan of Brunei
South of the Kota Batu Site 1 is the tomb of Sultan Bolkiah (reigned 1485-1524), the fifth Sultan of Brunei. His reign is known as the Golden Age of Brunei history, when the Sultanate of Brunei held power over Borneo and the southern Philippines.
When Ferdinand Magellan's fleet arrived in Brunei in 1521, they witnessed the power of Brunei under Sultan Bolkiah. When they reached the palace, they were shocked by his wealth. A hall reached by wide steps was crowded with courtiers wearing elegant clothes. Through the corridor was a slightly raised room decorated with luxurious silk and brocade curtains, bathed in natural light from wide windows. Three hundred of the Sultan's warriors stood guard there with their daggers drawn. A little further on was a smaller but equally beautiful room, where the muscular forty-year-old monarch sat on a large mat chewing betel nut with his young son beside him.
The tomb of Sultan Bolkiah is tall, majestic, and finely carved. The tombstone consists of eight layers, but only the bottom layer is original. One of the upper stones commemorates Sultan Muhammad Ali, and another commemorates Sultan Abdul Mubin, likely made in the late 17th century. The middle slab records that Sultan Bolkiah passed away on July 17, 1524, and was likely carved in modern times.
Next to the tomb of Sultan Bolkiah is the tomb of his wife.
Kampong Ayer Water Village
We took a speedboat from the pier on the Brunei River and reached Kampong Ayer on the other side for 1 Brunei dollar each. We first visited the Kampong Ayer Cultural and Tourism Gallery, which has information about the water village, and there is an observation deck next to it for a panoramic view of the village.
Kampung Ayer is the Malay term for water village. It was once the main port of the Sultanate of Brunei and served as its trade hub from the 15th to the 17th century. After the Brunei Civil War in the 18th century, Kota Batu was abandoned, and the water village became the capital of the Sultanate. In 1521, Italian explorer Antonio Pigafetta arrived in Brunei with Magellan's fleet and called Kampung Ayer the Venice of the East. The water village was once massive and even housed the Sultan's palace, but it gradually declined after the British invasion in the 19th century. Since the 20th century, Brunei has encouraged residents of the water village to move to the shore, but many people still choose to stay.
The two traditional wooden mosques on the water are a major highlight of Brunei. The walls and pillars are made of wood. Once you go inside, the air conditioning is very strong, so you cannot feel the humidity from the water. In recent years, Brunei has built several large concrete mosques on the banks of the water village, and the traditional wooden mosques are becoming fewer.
The water village has its own scenery, with small restaurants and convenience stores, though it is usually quite quiet.
Summary: This first part of the Brunei journey follows historic sites from hilltop fortifications to places tied to Malay royal and Muslim culture. The English version preserves the original route, images, place names, and historical notes from the Chinese source.
Entering Brunei
I took a Royal Brunei Airlines flight from Kuching in the afternoon and arrived in Bandar Seri Begawan, Brunei's capital and only city, in just over an hour. After getting off the plane, follow the crowd to the immigration counters where you will see a row specifically for visa-on-arrival. Staff members will check in advance if you are holding a Chinese passport. When entering, just show your prepared flight itinerary and accommodation booking. You do not need to print the electronic arrival card or health declaration if you have filled them out online. Then, pay the visa fee with a VISA card to complete the entry process.
After clearing immigration, I exchanged some Malaysian Ringgit for Brunei Dollars and installed the SIM card I had bought in advance. I had already installed Dart, Brunei's local ride-hailing app, on my phone. It supports both VISA card and cash payments, and it is quite fast at getting a car. Note that the pickup point for ride-hailing cars is in the side parking lot. Walk from the airport entrance toward the direction of the airport mosque, then follow the canopy until you reach the end to find it.
We stayed at the J Hotel for our first night. The hotel environment is nice, and it is not far from the Gadong Night Market and the Jame' Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque. After checking into the hotel, we walked over to the Jame' Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque.
My first impression of downtown Brunei is that everyone drives everywhere; there are basically no pedestrians on the streets. It feels like the whole city was designed for cars, and there are very few crosswalks. The city has low density and lots of greenery, making it feel like a garden city for cars. Our hotel was only about 300 meters away from the mosque as the crow flies, but it took 15 minutes to walk there. This is because you have to walk along the road for a long time before finding a place to cross, and then you must walk through a parking lot over 200 meters long inside the mosque grounds to reach the main prayer hall.
Brunei's two national mosques
The Jame' Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque is one of Brunei's two national mosques and the largest mosque in the country. The mosque was built by Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah to celebrate his 25th anniversary on the throne and officially opened in 1994. The 29 golden domes of the mosque commemorate the 29th Sultan of Brunei. The five fountains symbolize the five daily prayers and the five pillars of Islam. The mihrab (prayer niche) is decorated with gold-plated tiles. The interior is very magnificent, featuring Persian carpets, Italian marble, and Philippine hardwood.
The night view of the Brunei mosque is more beautiful than during the day. For those who want to take photos, I recommend coming during the times for prayer.
The Jame' Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque during the day. The main prayer hall is connected to the women's prayer hall by a corridor. This is a rare example of an independent women's prayer hall in Southeast Asia, and it is very large. Below the women's prayer hall is the ablution area (shuifang), and it is the only one I have ever visited that uses motion-sensor faucets.
For Friday prayers (Jumu'ah), we went to Brunei's other national mosque, the Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, which is also known as the 'Water Mosque'. Brunei requires all malls and restaurants to close between 12:00 PM and 2:00 PM, so the mosque was packed during Jumu'ah, with the entire main hall full, which was a spectacular sight.
The Water Mosque was built between 1954 and 1958 by the former Sultan of Brunei, Omar Ali Saifuddien III (who reigned from 1950 to 1967), and it is named after him. The main hall features a golden dome in the Mughal Revival style, and the interior uses Italian marble, Shanghai granite, British chandeliers, and Venetian mosaic glass, making it Brunei's most important landmark since its completion.
The minbar (pulpit) at the Water Mosque has two levels; the first is where the muezzin calls the adhan (bangke), and the second is where the imam delivers the khutbah (hutubai). Next to the minbar, there is a staircase leading to the second-floor prayer area reserved for the royal family.
After Jumu'ah, they were handing out boxed meals, mostly to South Asian laborers, and I also went over to get a bottle of water.
The Water Mosque during the times of the morning prayer (shamu) and the afternoon prayer (hufu tan). Both of Brunei's national mosques look better at night than during the day.
The earliest historical relics of Brunei are in China.
The Brunei History Centre has a replica of the 'Tombstone of the King of Boni' from Nanjing, and the full text is on display.
The Tomb of the King of Boni in Nanjing is commonly known as the Ma Huihui Tomb, and it is the burial site of the Bruneian Sultan Mana'naja. In 1405 (the third year of the Yongle reign), Sultan Mana'naja of Boni sent envoys to pay tribute to the Ming Dynasty, and he was granted the title of King of Boni and given many gifts. In 1408 (the sixth year of the Yongle reign), the Sultan led a delegation of over 150 people to Fujian, then traveled to Nanjing to meet the Yongle Emperor, Zhu Di, where he was treated with great honor. A month later, the Sultan suddenly fell ill and passed away at the Huitong Hall in Nanjing. According to the Sultan's final wish to 'have his body buried in China,' the Yongle Emperor ordered that he be buried with royal honors at Shizigang, outside Andemen Gate in Nanjing. After the Qing Dynasty, the tombstone was lost for a time, but the remaining parts were finally found in 1958, though unfortunately, the top of the stone has never been recovered.
The story of Sultan Mana'naja is recorded in the 'History of Ming' (Ming Shi), but it does not appear in Bruneian history books, nor is it in the Bruneian royal genealogy, the 'Salasilah Raja-Raja Brunei'. Bruneian historians believe Sultan Mana'naja is one of the sultans not mentioned in the genealogy.
The original Nanjing tombstone that I photographed a few years ago.
The ancient city in the mountains of Brunei.
I took a taxi from the city center to the ruins of the Brunei Sultanate palace hidden in the tropical rainforest, the Kota Batu Archaeological Park (Taman Arkeologi Kota Batu), which is also Brunei's most important archaeological site.
Kota Batu is believed to have been the capital of the Brunei Sultanate from the 14th to the 17th century. It was once an important trade port in Southeast Asia and the central city of northern Borneo. In 1521, Italian explorer Antonio Pigafetta arrived in Brunei with Magellan's fleet. He recorded: 'This city is built entirely on the sea, with 25,000 households, excluding the homes of the Sultan and certain heads of state.' A civil war in the Brunei Sultanate between 1660 and 1673 led to the abandonment of Kota Batu. The Sultan of Brunei moved his palace to the water village of Kampong Ayer on the upper Brunei River.
Kota Batu means 'stone castle.' It is a rare site of stone architecture in Brunei. British naturalist and Sarawak Museum curator Tom Harrisson led the first archaeological excavations at Kota Batu from 1952 to 1953. He found many Chinese coins from the Tang, Song, and Ming dynasties, as well as Arabic coins, glassware, ironware, bronze, wooden tools, stone carvings, and ceramics from Siam, Indochina, and Song and Ming dynasty China.
During excavations in 1986 and 1987, a square stone building measuring 25.8 meters by 25.4 meters was discovered. It contained 36 stone column bases, tombstone remains, and Ming dynasty porcelain shards. It is believed the building was constructed in the 15th century. Because the column bases are in three layers, the building likely had a three-tiered pyramid roof structure similar to traditional mosques in Malacca. Although early palace buildings in the Brunei Sultanate were made of wood and left few traces, the coins and pottery found at Kota Batu suggest the Sultan's palace was likely near this site.
Next to the site are nine graves of Brunei nobles from the 15th and 16th centuries. The tombstones were all imported, likely from China.
The paths in Kota Batu Archaeological Park feel like a primitive forest. There were no other tourists, and the mountain trails were often covered by fallen leaves and hidden from view. It is hard to imagine that this was once the capital of Brunei.
Tomb of the Third Sultan of Brunei
The Kota Batu Archaeological Park contains the tomb of Sharif Ali, the third Sultan of Brunei.
Sultan Sharif Ali (reigned 1425–1432) was originally a missionary from the ancient Saudi city of Taif and a descendant of the Prophet's grandson, Hasan ibn Ali. He arrived in Brunei to preach in 1395 and earned the respect of the Sultan and the people. He married the daughter of Sultan Ahmad around 1400 and inherited the throne after the old Sultan passed away in 1425. This is how the Brunei Sultanate gained its lineage from the Prophet.
Sultan Sharif Ali worked to spread Islamic law while keeping local customs that did not conflict with the faith. During his reign, Brunei officially transitioned from a Hindu-Buddhist cultural zone into a part of Islamic civilization. He built the first mosque in Brunei, designed the national flag, and established the title 'Darussalam' for Brunei. It is believed that he may have also built the stone castle at Kota Batu.
North of Sultan Sharif Ali's tomb is the grave of Syarif Adam, another sage who came to Brunei with the Sultan to preach. Together, they spread the influence of the faith from Brunei to the Sulu Archipelago and Mindanao in the southern Philippines. According to his tombstone, Syarif Adam passed away in 1454.
Tomb of the Brunei Princess
In the center of the old town of Brunei, there is the tomb of Raja Ayang. Legend says Raja Ayang was a royal family member during the reign of Sultan Sulaiman (reigned 1432-1485) of Brunei in the 15th century. Some research suggests she might be Rokayah, the daughter of Sultan Abdul Majid Hassan who passed away in Nanjing.
People say Raja Ayang had an affair with her own brother. Sultan Sulaiman punished them by locking them in a small, man-made cave that only had one air vent connecting to the outside. The Sultan provided them with enough food to live inside the cave. If no cooking smoke rose from the air vent, it meant they had passed away. Later, people built the tomb of Raja Ayang next to the small hill.
The small hill of Raja Ayang's tomb lasted until the 1950s. It was torn down to build a nearby post office and radio station, but the tomb itself was preserved. The inscription is blurry from years of people lighting candles for dua, but you can still see verses and the year 859 in the Islamic calendar (1454 AD), which is likely the date Raja Ayang passed away.
Tomb of the Fifth Sultan of Brunei
South of the Kota Batu Site 1 is the tomb of Sultan Bolkiah (reigned 1485-1524), the fifth Sultan of Brunei. His reign is known as the Golden Age of Brunei history, when the Sultanate of Brunei held power over Borneo and the southern Philippines.
When Ferdinand Magellan's fleet arrived in Brunei in 1521, they witnessed the power of Brunei under Sultan Bolkiah. When they reached the palace, they were shocked by his wealth. A hall reached by wide steps was crowded with courtiers wearing elegant clothes. Through the corridor was a slightly raised room decorated with luxurious silk and brocade curtains, bathed in natural light from wide windows. Three hundred of the Sultan's warriors stood guard there with their daggers drawn. A little further on was a smaller but equally beautiful room, where the muscular forty-year-old monarch sat on a large mat chewing betel nut with his young son beside him.
The tomb of Sultan Bolkiah is tall, majestic, and finely carved. The tombstone consists of eight layers, but only the bottom layer is original. One of the upper stones commemorates Sultan Muhammad Ali, and another commemorates Sultan Abdul Mubin, likely made in the late 17th century. The middle slab records that Sultan Bolkiah passed away on July 17, 1524, and was likely carved in modern times.
Next to the tomb of Sultan Bolkiah is the tomb of his wife.
Kampong Ayer Water Village
We took a speedboat from the pier on the Brunei River and reached Kampong Ayer on the other side for 1 Brunei dollar each. We first visited the Kampong Ayer Cultural and Tourism Gallery, which has information about the water village, and there is an observation deck next to it for a panoramic view of the village.
Kampung Ayer is the Malay term for water village. It was once the main port of the Sultanate of Brunei and served as its trade hub from the 15th to the 17th century. After the Brunei Civil War in the 18th century, Kota Batu was abandoned, and the water village became the capital of the Sultanate. In 1521, Italian explorer Antonio Pigafetta arrived in Brunei with Magellan's fleet and called Kampung Ayer the Venice of the East. The water village was once massive and even housed the Sultan's palace, but it gradually declined after the British invasion in the 19th century. Since the 20th century, Brunei has encouraged residents of the water village to move to the shore, but many people still choose to stay.
The two traditional wooden mosques on the water are a major highlight of Brunei. The walls and pillars are made of wood. Once you go inside, the air conditioning is very strong, so you cannot feel the humidity from the water. In recent years, Brunei has built several large concrete mosques on the banks of the water village, and the traditional wooden mosques are becoming fewer.
The water village has its own scenery, with small restaurants and convenience stores, though it is usually quite quiet.
