Exploring China's Southernmost Muslim Villages: Sanya's Huihui & Huixin, Halal Cuisine, and Historic Mosques
Exploring China's Southernmost Muslim Villages: The Unique Geography and Culture of Sanya's Huihui and Huixin Villages

Abstract:

A systematic look at the history and current landscape of the Muslim villages in Sanya, sitting right at China's southernmost tip. We break down how the Utsul Muslims preserve their Islamic faith, distinct linguistic system, and strict dietary laws in this tropical seaside city, serving as a living specimen of Maritime Silk Road culture.

February 22, 2022

The sky was still a bit overcast. Yesterday's forecast promised clear skies, but today it flipped to cloudy. Whatever, at least it's finally not raining. Decided to head out for a stroll. The original plan was to hit Linchunling Forest Park for some hiking and panoramic views of Sanya.

Checked the map and saw that Bus Route 50 from the Sanya Railway Station goes straight there. Somehow, I ended up at Phoenix International Airport instead—didn't take the wrong bus, alright, I just got on heading the complete opposite direction.

On the way, we passed Huihui Village (Huihui Muslim Village). I'd looked it up online a few days ago—it’s hyped as China's southernmost Muslim village. It was only three stops away from the airport. After hanging out at the airport for a bit, I caught Bus Route 24 and hopped off right at the Beautiful Phoenix Hotel, which drops you right into Huihui Village. My first vibe? Honestly felt like stumbling into a Uyghur village.

Freshly baked nan (traditional Uyghur flatbread) in Xinjiang usually has to be made at designated nan industrial parks, but here you see plenty of freshly baked nan stalls all over. Saw one of these syrup-dripping nan fresh out of the oven and couldn't resist grabbing one for 5 RMB. Munched on it while walking—super tasty.

Thought I spotted a weird dog breed at first, but looking closer, the little guy just got a fresh haircut. Gotta say, the grooming skills aren't bad at all. Shaved super smooth, even the fur on its paws was trimmed clean.

Found an older sister making pancakes in the alleyway with a vibe totally giving Gansu-Shaanxi Hui Muslim style. Using wood fuel, she pours the batter into this little black pan, closes the lid, and adds fire underneath. This pan can be heated from both sides, and the finished pancakes get tossed onto the iron tray right in the middle. The lady on the side said they're 2 RMB each, but when I asked the lady actually cooking them on the left, she said they aren't for sale. Pretty unique way of cooking, right?

A green house in the village—looks like a women's beauty salon. Even the building is painted green, and the color combo is super coordinated and easy on the eyes.

Qingzhen Dongsi (Sanya East Mosque). So, is there a Qingzhen Xisi (West Mosque)? Sure enough, there is! Not just a West Mosque, but a South Mosque and North Mosque too. There are six mosques in total, with the other two being the Sanya Ancient Mosque and Nankai Mosque.

Huihui Civilization Farmers Market. Not super big, and strictly sells halal food.

Killing a duck, getting it ready. This local sister just slaughtered a duck and is cleaning it up right there. Usually, whatever you buy at the market is already prepped, so this one must have been home-raised.

An airplane over the treetops.

A 'flying chicken' under the treetops.

Little kids working hard.

The village isn't far from Sanya Bay—just a little over two kilometers—so I ditched the mountain hike and went for a stroll by the ocean instead. It was overcast, but the waves were huge. Sat by the beach watching the surf and the crowds walking by. A few pretty girls walked past every now and then, and of course, plenty of not-so-pretty ones too.

A jellyfish washed ashore by the waves. Wonder if this one is edible—making a cold tossed jellyfish skin salad with it would be pretty awesome.

Two kids playing a real-life Jingwei (mythological bird trying to fill the sea with pebbles), using little plastic shovels trying to fill up the ocean. You guys got this!

There are two Muslim villages. The other one is Huixin Village (Huixin Muslim Village), just over four kilometers from Huihui Village, and you can just walk along the coast to get there. There are tons of little shops in this village; two small streets are packed with vendors selling stuff, mostly street food. A lot of houses in the village also have homestay signs hanging outside. Saw another batch of fresh, plain nan just out of the oven. Grabbed one, though honestly, this one wasn't as good as the ones in Xinjiang. There were small street stalls selling home-grown produce, like dragon fruit going for 10 RMB for four jin (about 4 lbs), and watermelons for 5 RMB each.

Qingzhen Nansi (Sanya South Mosque). The architecture is super new, looks like it was recently renovated. Just happened to pass by Nankai Mosque too, didn't make a special trip for it though.

Walking back from Huixin Village is also over four kilometers, and the bus stop is a good two kilometers away. Might as well just walk all the way back since I'm not in a rush anyway, plus I get to check out the street views.

Sanya has a ton of gorgeous architecture. This cluster of four buildings has a really unique vibe.
Not sure how my calligraphy skills are, but I feel like it's pretty much on par with mine. Guess it must just be my lack of skill that I couldn't appreciate their profound artistic depth.
Sanya River in the evening twilight.
This kid in a red jacket chased me for a long way while the adults yelled from behind, 'Keep running and the old man up ahead is gonna grab you!' Well, I had to play along, so I yelled back for him to come with me, and he immediately ran back. Walked all day and felt pretty beat, so I grabbed some water and hit the sack.