Reposted from the web

Summary: This Manchuria Muslim travel guide keeps the original route through Chifeng, Jilin, Acheng, and Qiqihar, including mosques, mihrab details, food stops, and photos. It preserves the source order for readers following Muslim heritage in northeast China.

The Manchuria region generally refers to the four northeastern provinces and regions. Besides Liaoning, Jilin, and Heilongjiang provinces, it also includes Chifeng, Hinggan League, Tongliao, Xilin Gol League, and Hulunbuir in eastern Inner Mongolia. People in these places have similar accents, which sound like the Northeast accent to people from the eighteen provinces of the interior.

I have written halal food maps for Changchun, Harbin, and Shenyang before. This time, I am adding Chifeng, Jilin City, Acheng in Harbin, and Qiqihar.

1. Chifeng City



I came to Chifeng because it has an ancient mosque that is a Major Historical and Cultural Site Protected at the National Level. The Chifeng North Mosque (Beidasi) was built in the fourth year of the Qianlong reign of the Qing Dynasty (1739). It was modeled after the style of the Shenyang South Mosque (Fengtian Qingzhen Nansi) at that time.





The North Mosque is the largest mosque in the Chifeng area. Not far from the North Mosque, there is also a South Mosque (Nandasi), which is a newly built mosque.











I saw carved phoenixes on both sides of the main prayer hall.



Under the eaves in front of the main hall, there are wooden dragon heads. Since Islam forbids drawing animal patterns and idols, these mythical creature symbols rarely appear in mosques.



The wood used for this mosque comes from the red wood of Nanshan in Chifeng.









Mihrab









The patterns on the windows are all plants and flowers, which look quite beautiful.



When you arrive in the Manchuria region, you will notice that halal restaurants here like to use blue signs. Following the logic of some, you might call them followers of the Blue Religion.



There is a lamb offal soup (yangza tang) shop next to the North Mosque. You cannot go wrong eating lamb offal when you come to Inner Mongolia.



It was still breakfast time, so I ordered a bowl of lamb offal soup (yangza) and a sesame flatbread (shaobing). It was delicious.



The owner chatted with me for a while. He is a local Hui Muslim from Chifeng. He said the Hui Muslims in Chifeng are not as 'pure' as those in Hohhot, and compared to the Hui Muslims in Hohhot, they are like 'second-tier' Hui Muslims. I have been to Hohhot and have very good Hui Muslim friends there. There are eight mosques in the urban area of Hohhot. They left a great impression on me; they are the type of people who focus equally on both this life and the afterlife.



I saw this small shop on my walk to the South Great Mosque (Qingzhen Nandasi). These halal shops are spread widely across Chifeng. There are 26 mosques in the Chifeng area, so it is quite convenient for Hui Muslims to find food here.







The Chifeng South Great Mosque was first built in the sixth year of the Jiaqing reign (1801). It was occupied in 1958 and converted into the current Changqing Park, then rebuilt at a new site in 1997.





















A small shop on the side of South Mosque Street (Nansi Jie), also run by locals.







I saw more than one seafood barbecue place on the streets of Chifeng. Perhaps because they are so far from the sea, I feel the people of Inner Mongolia have a special attachment to the ocean.





Seeing the familiar Arabic calligraphy hanging outside gave me a lot of comfort.



I chose to eat at Lao Tan Spicy Pot Chicken. This shop has been open for many years, but you cannot find much information on the Dazhong Dianping app, just a few photos. In third or fourth-tier cities and below, there are very few users on Dazhong Dianping, so you cannot find much dining information. In these cases, you can use the WeChat search function, which can find a lot of information that Baidu cannot, or you can just ask the locals.





This crispy chicken is served as a whole bird, enough for four people to eat. It is very fragrant and crispy. I suggest finding a few people to travel with when visiting Inner Mongolia, otherwise, it is hard to know what to eat.



This dish is called kuli. It is made with naked oat noodles (youmian) mixed with sesame oil. The more sesame oil, the better it tastes.



About 200 kilometers from Chifeng City, in Hexigten Banner, there is a mosque with a traditional style called Jingpeng Mosque. It was built in the Renzi year of the Xianfeng reign of the Qing Dynasty (1852) and is located on Jingpeng Street in Hexigten Banner. This mosque does not appear on maps, and Jingpeng Street is a residential area for Hui Muslims in Hexigten Banner.



After a four-hour drive, I reached Jingpeng Street. Seeing this beautiful mosque made me feel very grateful. I even think it is prettier than the North Mosque in Chifeng, as it lacks the traditional roof ornaments.



The second floor is the office area, and the first floor is the washroom.













The towels in the washroom are quite refined; they have the words for hand towel and foot towel embroidered on them.



















Jingpeng Street is currently being demolished and renovated, and the Hui Muslims have all moved across the river to live in apartment buildings.



There are not many shops on the west side of the river, as most have moved to the east side.



A local driver took me to a halal restaurant that has been in business for many years, saying that this place, Chengxinzhai, makes good food.



The two of us chose a pot of lamb neck bones and two jin (one kilogram) of boiled dumplings (shuijiao).



We ate in a private room.



The lamb neck bones were stewed until tender and very flavorful, and the beef and green onion dumplings were also delicious. The driver told me his ancestors came from Shandong. Many locals have ancestral roots in Shandong, so it is normal that they love eating boiled dumplings.



2. Jilin City



Jilin City in Jilin Province is considered the place with the highest concentration of Hui Muslims in Northeast China. There are four mosques just near Beiji Street in the city center. In the Manchu town of Wula Street, there is also the Wula Street Mosque, which is a major historical and cultural site protected at the national level. However, the focus of my trip was to see the Chuanchang Gongbei.



The Chuanchang Gongbei is the shrine for Ma Datian (1757–1817), the third-generation leader of the Jahriyya menhuan. The Qing government had exiled Ma Datian to Bukui in Heilongjiang (modern-day Qiqihar). When he reached the Jilin shipyard, he passed away at the age of 60. The twelve followers who had voluntarily followed him into exile were still sent to Bukui. They settled and multiplied there, forming a community. This is the origin of the Jahriyya in the Northeast. I will mention meeting Jahriyya followers in Qiqihar later.



Before coming to the Chuanchang gongbei, I learned from a close friend whose ancestors were among the twelve families that followed the elder Ma Datian that her family helped build this gongbei. Some of her family members still guard the site today.









Every year, many descendants of the Northwest Zhe school come here to visit the graves.



The Chuanchang gongbei is now a municipal-level cultural heritage site, and a mosque has been built right next to it.













Leaving the Chuanchang gongbei, you can walk south along the road to reach the North Great Mosque, or take the bus for two stops and get off at the mosque station.





The minaret of the North Great Mosque towers into the clouds.



The Jilin North Great Mosque was first built in the 25th year of the Qianlong reign of the Qing Dynasty (1760). The mosque houses an imperial decree tablet bestowed by the Daoguang Emperor.











I met people in the mosque reciting scriptures for the deceased, with family members wearing traditional mourning clothes. This is rare; I remember seeing it once at a mosque in Shijiazhuang.









Less than two kilometers from the North Great Mosque is the Jilin West Mosque.



The West Mosque was first built in the 2nd year of the Qianlong reign of the Qing Dynasty (1737) and was rebuilt in 2004.





Banning tobacco was not without controversy. Sultan Murad IV once ordered a ban on coffee and tobacco and executed many people. After long debates between supporters and opponents, the Grand Mufti Mehmed Bahai Efendi declared tobacco legal in a fatwa. Mehmed Bahai Efendi was a heavy smoker himself; he had been fired and exiled in 1634 for smoking. His principle for issuing fatwas was that everything not explicitly forbidden is legal, while also considering what is most suitable for the people.

Of course, smoking is harmful to health and is a form of slow suicide. Today, the vast majority of Islamic countries have declared smoking illegal.











In the sixth month of the 33rd year of the Kangxi Emperor's reign, the imperial decree stated: I have reviewed the great classics of the Han and Hui people from ancient times to the present, which represent the grand path from the beginning. There are seventy-two sects claiming to cultivate immortality and become Buddhas, leading the righteous astray into evil, and all sorts of lawless heresies have emerged. Past offenses will not be punished, but anyone who violates this again will be beheaded. The Han officials have their duties, enjoy the emperor's salary, and attend court daily. Yet the Hui Muslims pray to Allah and honor the Prophet five times a day, and although they do not eat my salary, they know how to show gratitude, which the Han people do not do as well as the Hui. Let all provinces know: if officials or commoners use minor grievances as an excuse to falsely report that the Hui Muslims are plotting a rebellion, the responsible official shall be executed first and reported later. Hui Muslims across the land must each uphold their faith, do not disobey this order, and do not fail my kindness in showing love for the path. Respect this and follow it.



The time here in Bangda has already reached past two in the morning, and People say at the mosque in Arctic Village, Mohe, Heilongjiang, the sky is already bright after one in the morning.















The West Mosque seems to value education highly and has study groups.









Leaving the West Mosque, it only takes a few hundred meters of walking to reach the East Mosque.



The East Mosque was first built during the Yongzheng period of the Qing Dynasty and was rebuilt in 2000, completing my visit to the four mosques in Jilin City.



















After leaving the East Mosque (Dongsi), I returned to Mosque Street (Qingzhensi Jie), which is a large residential area for Hui Muslims.



There are many breakfast stalls selling tofu pudding (doufunao), soy milk, lamb bone broth (yangtang), and steamed buns (baozi), much like in Beijing.



There are also many snack shops.



There is a large Hui Muslim supermarket that is long and narrow, with both sides connected.











I bought some halal meat floss cake and raisin cake at the supermarket for a very cheap price.













I bought half a jin of chewy flatbread (jinbing) at Xing Noodle Shop; it tastes a lot like hand-torn bread (shoushibing) and costs 3 yuan for half a jin.





For breakfast, I had beef steamed buns (baozi) and porridge. The buns were delicious and looked great too.









I ate three buns but wasn't full, so I went across the street for a bowl of tofu pudding (doufunao) and a fried dough stick (guozi). People in Jilin call fried dough sticks (youtiao) guozi.















Before leaving, I went to a burger shop and bought a chicken leg burger combo to go. It cost 18 yuan for a cola, two chicken wings, and a chicken leg burger.





Looking at these barbecue stalls, I bet this street gets really lively at night. It is hard to find this kind of down-to-earth night market in Beijing now.

3. Acheng, Harbin



Acheng is a far suburb of Harbin, about 40 kilometers from the city center. It is home to the Acheng Ancient Mosque (Acheng Qingzhen Gusi), which is a Major Historical and Cultural Site Protected at the National Level.



There is a leisure square in front of the Acheng Mosque gate where many children play in the evening.



The area around the mosque is a neighborhood for Hui Muslims, filled mostly with restaurants run by local Hui Muslims.











Acheng Mosque is the oldest mosque in the Harbin area, built during the Qianlong reign of the Qing Dynasty in 1777.











This mosque looks a lot like the Niujie Mosque. The Arabic calligraphy on the main hall's beams and the plaque on Datianjun Road are both similar to those at Niujie.



There is only one caretaker at the mosque who calls himself the lamplighter. I asked to turn on the lights to see better, but the caretaker said he could not because the mosque is a national heritage site. They keep the power off to prevent fires, only turning it on during Ramadan. The imam leaves work every day at 5:00 PM.



I had to use my phone's flashlight to take pictures.



The minbar inside the mosque is an antique.



I left Acheng for the Harbin Xiangfang Railway Station and had dinner at Dingniu Barbecue near the station.





I ordered a bottle of Qiulin kvass (qiulin gewasi). Once you have tried Qiulin, you can really taste the difference compared to other brands like Wahaha; Qiulin is definitely the best.



The owner recommended the beef bones. A huge platter arrived and surprised me, but there was not much meat on it. This big plate cost 38 yuan, and it is mostly for eating the beef bone marrow inside using a straw.

4. Qiqihar



To the people of Qiqihar, Harbin is considered the south.



There is a Mosque Road in Qiqihar.



Both sides of the street have several large halal restaurants that mainly serve Northeast Chinese cuisine.







The tea house next to the mosque is also a protected cultural heritage site.



Bukui Mosque was built in 1684, the 23rd year of the Kangxi reign of the Qing Dynasty. It is older than the city of Qiqihar itself, which is why people say, 'First came the mosque, then came Bukui City.' The East Mosque was built first for the Gedimu tradition, and later the West Mosque was built for the Jahriyya (Zheherenye) order. Together they are called Bukui Mosque. Today, when I arrived, it was time for the prayer service (pesh). The two halls held prayers separately; after the East Mosque finished bowing, the West Mosque was still collectively chanting praises to the Prophet.















Next to Bukui Mosque is the shrine (gongbei), where the ancestors of the twelve families who were exiled to Bukui along with the shipyard master are buried.











The main hall is currently being renovated, so the congregants of the East and West mosques are each praying in a temporary prayer hall.



A halal nursing home in Qiqihar.



I went to eat at Yuxiangzhai. Since the restaurant is so big, I wanted to check for recommended dishes on Dazhong Dianping first, but the waiter said there is nothing online and I should look at the murals on the wall to order.









I really love eating Northeast Chinese food, especially steamed dumplings (shaomai) and double-cooked pork slices (guobaorou). I never get tired of them.



The beef steamed dumplings (shaomai) cost 20 yuan per steamer and have thin skins with lots of filling.





The sweet and sour double-cooked pork slices (guobaorou) served with Northeast rice are delicious. The portion is just too big; two people couldn't finish such a large plate of meat. I ate until I was stuffed, but the amount of food didn't seem to go down, so I had to pack it up.

On my way to Bukui Mosque, I saw a small shop called Yangxuan Guolao that sells pan-fried dumplings (guolao). They look like potstickers (guotie) and seem delicious. Once the renovations at Bukui Mosque are finished, I want to come back and try them.

This concludes my tour of mosques in Manchuria. Here is a look back at previous posts:

A map of halal food in Changchun, Harbin, and Shenyang. view all

Reposted from the web

Summary: This Manchuria Muslim travel guide keeps the original route through Chifeng, Jilin, Acheng, and Qiqihar, including mosques, mihrab details, food stops, and photos. It preserves the source order for readers following Muslim heritage in northeast China.

The Manchuria region generally refers to the four northeastern provinces and regions. Besides Liaoning, Jilin, and Heilongjiang provinces, it also includes Chifeng, Hinggan League, Tongliao, Xilin Gol League, and Hulunbuir in eastern Inner Mongolia. People in these places have similar accents, which sound like the Northeast accent to people from the eighteen provinces of the interior.

I have written halal food maps for Changchun, Harbin, and Shenyang before. This time, I am adding Chifeng, Jilin City, Acheng in Harbin, and Qiqihar.

1. Chifeng City



I came to Chifeng because it has an ancient mosque that is a Major Historical and Cultural Site Protected at the National Level. The Chifeng North Mosque (Beidasi) was built in the fourth year of the Qianlong reign of the Qing Dynasty (1739). It was modeled after the style of the Shenyang South Mosque (Fengtian Qingzhen Nansi) at that time.





The North Mosque is the largest mosque in the Chifeng area. Not far from the North Mosque, there is also a South Mosque (Nandasi), which is a newly built mosque.











I saw carved phoenixes on both sides of the main prayer hall.



Under the eaves in front of the main hall, there are wooden dragon heads. Since Islam forbids drawing animal patterns and idols, these mythical creature symbols rarely appear in mosques.



The wood used for this mosque comes from the red wood of Nanshan in Chifeng.









Mihrab









The patterns on the windows are all plants and flowers, which look quite beautiful.



When you arrive in the Manchuria region, you will notice that halal restaurants here like to use blue signs. Following the logic of some, you might call them followers of the Blue Religion.



There is a lamb offal soup (yangza tang) shop next to the North Mosque. You cannot go wrong eating lamb offal when you come to Inner Mongolia.



It was still breakfast time, so I ordered a bowl of lamb offal soup (yangza) and a sesame flatbread (shaobing). It was delicious.



The owner chatted with me for a while. He is a local Hui Muslim from Chifeng. He said the Hui Muslims in Chifeng are not as 'pure' as those in Hohhot, and compared to the Hui Muslims in Hohhot, they are like 'second-tier' Hui Muslims. I have been to Hohhot and have very good Hui Muslim friends there. There are eight mosques in the urban area of Hohhot. They left a great impression on me; they are the type of people who focus equally on both this life and the afterlife.



I saw this small shop on my walk to the South Great Mosque (Qingzhen Nandasi). These halal shops are spread widely across Chifeng. There are 26 mosques in the Chifeng area, so it is quite convenient for Hui Muslims to find food here.







The Chifeng South Great Mosque was first built in the sixth year of the Jiaqing reign (1801). It was occupied in 1958 and converted into the current Changqing Park, then rebuilt at a new site in 1997.





















A small shop on the side of South Mosque Street (Nansi Jie), also run by locals.







I saw more than one seafood barbecue place on the streets of Chifeng. Perhaps because they are so far from the sea, I feel the people of Inner Mongolia have a special attachment to the ocean.





Seeing the familiar Arabic calligraphy hanging outside gave me a lot of comfort.



I chose to eat at Lao Tan Spicy Pot Chicken. This shop has been open for many years, but you cannot find much information on the Dazhong Dianping app, just a few photos. In third or fourth-tier cities and below, there are very few users on Dazhong Dianping, so you cannot find much dining information. In these cases, you can use the WeChat search function, which can find a lot of information that Baidu cannot, or you can just ask the locals.





This crispy chicken is served as a whole bird, enough for four people to eat. It is very fragrant and crispy. I suggest finding a few people to travel with when visiting Inner Mongolia, otherwise, it is hard to know what to eat.



This dish is called kuli. It is made with naked oat noodles (youmian) mixed with sesame oil. The more sesame oil, the better it tastes.



About 200 kilometers from Chifeng City, in Hexigten Banner, there is a mosque with a traditional style called Jingpeng Mosque. It was built in the Renzi year of the Xianfeng reign of the Qing Dynasty (1852) and is located on Jingpeng Street in Hexigten Banner. This mosque does not appear on maps, and Jingpeng Street is a residential area for Hui Muslims in Hexigten Banner.



After a four-hour drive, I reached Jingpeng Street. Seeing this beautiful mosque made me feel very grateful. I even think it is prettier than the North Mosque in Chifeng, as it lacks the traditional roof ornaments.



The second floor is the office area, and the first floor is the washroom.













The towels in the washroom are quite refined; they have the words for hand towel and foot towel embroidered on them.



















Jingpeng Street is currently being demolished and renovated, and the Hui Muslims have all moved across the river to live in apartment buildings.



There are not many shops on the west side of the river, as most have moved to the east side.



A local driver took me to a halal restaurant that has been in business for many years, saying that this place, Chengxinzhai, makes good food.



The two of us chose a pot of lamb neck bones and two jin (one kilogram) of boiled dumplings (shuijiao).



We ate in a private room.



The lamb neck bones were stewed until tender and very flavorful, and the beef and green onion dumplings were also delicious. The driver told me his ancestors came from Shandong. Many locals have ancestral roots in Shandong, so it is normal that they love eating boiled dumplings.



2. Jilin City



Jilin City in Jilin Province is considered the place with the highest concentration of Hui Muslims in Northeast China. There are four mosques just near Beiji Street in the city center. In the Manchu town of Wula Street, there is also the Wula Street Mosque, which is a major historical and cultural site protected at the national level. However, the focus of my trip was to see the Chuanchang Gongbei.



The Chuanchang Gongbei is the shrine for Ma Datian (1757–1817), the third-generation leader of the Jahriyya menhuan. The Qing government had exiled Ma Datian to Bukui in Heilongjiang (modern-day Qiqihar). When he reached the Jilin shipyard, he passed away at the age of 60. The twelve followers who had voluntarily followed him into exile were still sent to Bukui. They settled and multiplied there, forming a community. This is the origin of the Jahriyya in the Northeast. I will mention meeting Jahriyya followers in Qiqihar later.



Before coming to the Chuanchang gongbei, I learned from a close friend whose ancestors were among the twelve families that followed the elder Ma Datian that her family helped build this gongbei. Some of her family members still guard the site today.









Every year, many descendants of the Northwest Zhe school come here to visit the graves.



The Chuanchang gongbei is now a municipal-level cultural heritage site, and a mosque has been built right next to it.













Leaving the Chuanchang gongbei, you can walk south along the road to reach the North Great Mosque, or take the bus for two stops and get off at the mosque station.





The minaret of the North Great Mosque towers into the clouds.



The Jilin North Great Mosque was first built in the 25th year of the Qianlong reign of the Qing Dynasty (1760). The mosque houses an imperial decree tablet bestowed by the Daoguang Emperor.











I met people in the mosque reciting scriptures for the deceased, with family members wearing traditional mourning clothes. This is rare; I remember seeing it once at a mosque in Shijiazhuang.









Less than two kilometers from the North Great Mosque is the Jilin West Mosque.



The West Mosque was first built in the 2nd year of the Qianlong reign of the Qing Dynasty (1737) and was rebuilt in 2004.





Banning tobacco was not without controversy. Sultan Murad IV once ordered a ban on coffee and tobacco and executed many people. After long debates between supporters and opponents, the Grand Mufti Mehmed Bahai Efendi declared tobacco legal in a fatwa. Mehmed Bahai Efendi was a heavy smoker himself; he had been fired and exiled in 1634 for smoking. His principle for issuing fatwas was that everything not explicitly forbidden is legal, while also considering what is most suitable for the people.

Of course, smoking is harmful to health and is a form of slow suicide. Today, the vast majority of Islamic countries have declared smoking illegal.











In the sixth month of the 33rd year of the Kangxi Emperor's reign, the imperial decree stated: I have reviewed the great classics of the Han and Hui people from ancient times to the present, which represent the grand path from the beginning. There are seventy-two sects claiming to cultivate immortality and become Buddhas, leading the righteous astray into evil, and all sorts of lawless heresies have emerged. Past offenses will not be punished, but anyone who violates this again will be beheaded. The Han officials have their duties, enjoy the emperor's salary, and attend court daily. Yet the Hui Muslims pray to Allah and honor the Prophet five times a day, and although they do not eat my salary, they know how to show gratitude, which the Han people do not do as well as the Hui. Let all provinces know: if officials or commoners use minor grievances as an excuse to falsely report that the Hui Muslims are plotting a rebellion, the responsible official shall be executed first and reported later. Hui Muslims across the land must each uphold their faith, do not disobey this order, and do not fail my kindness in showing love for the path. Respect this and follow it.



The time here in Bangda has already reached past two in the morning, and People say at the mosque in Arctic Village, Mohe, Heilongjiang, the sky is already bright after one in the morning.















The West Mosque seems to value education highly and has study groups.









Leaving the West Mosque, it only takes a few hundred meters of walking to reach the East Mosque.



The East Mosque was first built during the Yongzheng period of the Qing Dynasty and was rebuilt in 2000, completing my visit to the four mosques in Jilin City.



















After leaving the East Mosque (Dongsi), I returned to Mosque Street (Qingzhensi Jie), which is a large residential area for Hui Muslims.



There are many breakfast stalls selling tofu pudding (doufunao), soy milk, lamb bone broth (yangtang), and steamed buns (baozi), much like in Beijing.



There are also many snack shops.



There is a large Hui Muslim supermarket that is long and narrow, with both sides connected.











I bought some halal meat floss cake and raisin cake at the supermarket for a very cheap price.













I bought half a jin of chewy flatbread (jinbing) at Xing Noodle Shop; it tastes a lot like hand-torn bread (shoushibing) and costs 3 yuan for half a jin.





For breakfast, I had beef steamed buns (baozi) and porridge. The buns were delicious and looked great too.









I ate three buns but wasn't full, so I went across the street for a bowl of tofu pudding (doufunao) and a fried dough stick (guozi). People in Jilin call fried dough sticks (youtiao) guozi.















Before leaving, I went to a burger shop and bought a chicken leg burger combo to go. It cost 18 yuan for a cola, two chicken wings, and a chicken leg burger.





Looking at these barbecue stalls, I bet this street gets really lively at night. It is hard to find this kind of down-to-earth night market in Beijing now.

3. Acheng, Harbin



Acheng is a far suburb of Harbin, about 40 kilometers from the city center. It is home to the Acheng Ancient Mosque (Acheng Qingzhen Gusi), which is a Major Historical and Cultural Site Protected at the National Level.



There is a leisure square in front of the Acheng Mosque gate where many children play in the evening.



The area around the mosque is a neighborhood for Hui Muslims, filled mostly with restaurants run by local Hui Muslims.











Acheng Mosque is the oldest mosque in the Harbin area, built during the Qianlong reign of the Qing Dynasty in 1777.











This mosque looks a lot like the Niujie Mosque. The Arabic calligraphy on the main hall's beams and the plaque on Datianjun Road are both similar to those at Niujie.



There is only one caretaker at the mosque who calls himself the lamplighter. I asked to turn on the lights to see better, but the caretaker said he could not because the mosque is a national heritage site. They keep the power off to prevent fires, only turning it on during Ramadan. The imam leaves work every day at 5:00 PM.



I had to use my phone's flashlight to take pictures.



The minbar inside the mosque is an antique.



I left Acheng for the Harbin Xiangfang Railway Station and had dinner at Dingniu Barbecue near the station.





I ordered a bottle of Qiulin kvass (qiulin gewasi). Once you have tried Qiulin, you can really taste the difference compared to other brands like Wahaha; Qiulin is definitely the best.



The owner recommended the beef bones. A huge platter arrived and surprised me, but there was not much meat on it. This big plate cost 38 yuan, and it is mostly for eating the beef bone marrow inside using a straw.

4. Qiqihar



To the people of Qiqihar, Harbin is considered the south.



There is a Mosque Road in Qiqihar.



Both sides of the street have several large halal restaurants that mainly serve Northeast Chinese cuisine.







The tea house next to the mosque is also a protected cultural heritage site.



Bukui Mosque was built in 1684, the 23rd year of the Kangxi reign of the Qing Dynasty. It is older than the city of Qiqihar itself, which is why people say, 'First came the mosque, then came Bukui City.' The East Mosque was built first for the Gedimu tradition, and later the West Mosque was built for the Jahriyya (Zheherenye) order. Together they are called Bukui Mosque. Today, when I arrived, it was time for the prayer service (pesh). The two halls held prayers separately; after the East Mosque finished bowing, the West Mosque was still collectively chanting praises to the Prophet.















Next to Bukui Mosque is the shrine (gongbei), where the ancestors of the twelve families who were exiled to Bukui along with the shipyard master are buried.











The main hall is currently being renovated, so the congregants of the East and West mosques are each praying in a temporary prayer hall.



A halal nursing home in Qiqihar.



I went to eat at Yuxiangzhai. Since the restaurant is so big, I wanted to check for recommended dishes on Dazhong Dianping first, but the waiter said there is nothing online and I should look at the murals on the wall to order.









I really love eating Northeast Chinese food, especially steamed dumplings (shaomai) and double-cooked pork slices (guobaorou). I never get tired of them.



The beef steamed dumplings (shaomai) cost 20 yuan per steamer and have thin skins with lots of filling.





The sweet and sour double-cooked pork slices (guobaorou) served with Northeast rice are delicious. The portion is just too big; two people couldn't finish such a large plate of meat. I ate until I was stuffed, but the amount of food didn't seem to go down, so I had to pack it up.

On my way to Bukui Mosque, I saw a small shop called Yangxuan Guolao that sells pan-fried dumplings (guolao). They look like potstickers (guotie) and seem delicious. Once the renovations at Bukui Mosque are finished, I want to come back and try them.

This concludes my tour of mosques in Manchuria. Here is a look back at previous posts:

A map of halal food in Changchun, Harbin, and Shenyang. view all

Reposted from the web

Summary: This Langzhong Muslim travel guide keeps the original ancient-city route, including Baba Mosque, Langzhong Mosque, Hui Muslim food stops, streets, and photos. It is formatted for readers interested in Sichuan Muslim heritage and halal travel in China.

I traveled to Langzhong because of the famous Baba Mosque (Baba Si). The Qadiriyya menhuan of Chinese Islam has three holy sites: the first is the Great Gongbei in Linxia, the second is Luling Mosque in Xixiang, and the third is Baba Mosque in Langzhong, which is considered the head of the three.

Baba Mosque is not inside the ancient city of Langzhong, but at the southern foot of Panlong Mountain in the eastern suburbs. However, the ancient city itself is worth a visit. It has its own mosque, the Langzhong Mosque, which serves as the local Islamic Association office. You can also find several halal shops scattered throughout the ancient city.



While wandering through the ancient city, I accidentally found this sign next to a halal butcher shop. It lists some of the halal restaurants in Langzhong. Some are inside the ancient city and some are in the city proper. There are far more halal restaurants in Langzhong than what is listed here, but the ones on this sign use reliable ingredients.



The ancient city has no entrance fee and is not very large, but there is plenty to see. My focus was on finding halal shops and old mosques.



Zhuangyuan Archway (Zhuangyuan Fang)

Gulan Gulang



Before entering the ancient city from the Zhuangyuan Archway, you can find the Gulan Gulang halal restaurant on the left side of the front of the archway. It is a popular spot among locals and serves local specialties, which means halal Sichuan-style food.



The restaurant is on the second floor. I saw this when I walked up the stairs, and a strong sense of halal culture hit me.



The waiters all wear prayer caps. Even though there were many customers, the service was still warm. I came alone this time, but the waiter still treated me with a smile.



I looked at the menu and wanted to eat everything because it all looked special. Since I only have one stomach, I followed the waiter's suggestion and chose three signature dishes.



This is white-sliced beef (baiqie niurou). People in the Bashu region love beef, and I do too, so I had to eat my fill while in Langzhong. Because Sichuan spices are of such high quality, they make meat dishes very flavorful. It goes perfectly with the local rice.



Anyone who has been to the Bashu region knows that rice is served by the head count. They bring you a whole bucket at once, and it is unlimited, so you will have plenty to eat.



This is Hui Muslim fried pot snack (guozha), a specialty of the Hui Muslims in Langzhong. Its texture and ingredients are very similar to Beijing's fried milk, and it is topped with white sugar.



The Three Wonders of Langyuan (Langyuan sanjue) is a very famous local dish. It is like a cross between porridge and soup, containing diced beef, steamed buns with sugar (baitang zhengmo), and Baoning vinegar. Baoning is the old name for Langzhong, and these three ingredients make up the 'three wonders'.

Try Huiyuan.



Huiyuan and Pinshangba are connected shops. On the left, Huiyuan sells beef, and on the right, Pinshangba sells jelly noodles (liangfen). The middle is opened up.

I noticed 'salt leaf beef' (yanyezi niurou) written under the counter. This salt leaf beef is the original name for the famous Zhangfei beef. Local people told me that Zhangfei beef was first created by Hui Muslims in Langzhong. Hui Muslims usually call it salt leaf beef, while Han Chinese call it Zhangfei beef. So, if you want to eat authentic Zhangfei beef, you should buy the halal salt leaf beef.









Chatting with the owner, she said her ancestors were Hui Muslims from Ningxia who settled in Langzhong over a hundred years ago. She speaks with a thick Sichuan accent. During our talk, she kept promoting her beef to customers at the next table, saying many tourists do not know that Hui Muslim beef is the most authentic in Langzhong because it is slaughtered by an imam. It is also more expensive than regular Zhangfei beef. I chimed in, saying that beef and mutton on Niujie Street in Beijing are also more expensive than elsewhere, but people still line up to buy them.



I ordered a portion of North Sichuan jelly noodles (chuanbei liangfen). Honestly, the texture was great, but it was too spicy. As a Beijinger, I cannot handle much spice. Seeing me struggle, the owner added a portion of plain jelly noodles for me to mix in and lower the heat, but it was still spicy. She laughed and said many guests from the Northwest add even more chili to their bowls while eating.



Unable to handle the spice, I ordered a bottle of vinegar drink.

Huihuixiang.



This is a halal breakfast shop at the entrance of the Langzhong mosque, selling beef offal noodles and small steamed buns (xiaolong baozi).



There are not many types of breakfast, but they are all local flavors.



I noticed that the oil dipping sauce here costs 0.5 yuan per plate.



The beef offal (niuza) in Langzhong is served plain without any seasoning. You add salt to your own taste, just like how you eat beef soup in Henan.



I dipped my beef bun in Baoning vinegar (Baoning cu). It is delicious and very sour. It reminds me of the aged vinegar (chencu) I had in Shanxi, but Baoning vinegar is not as dark in color.



The person on the sign on Libaisi Street is a Hui Muslim with the surname Ao. The other major Hui Muslim surname in Langzhong is Pu, which belongs to the same branch as the Hui Muslims with the surname Pu in Fujian.

Muslim Halal Shop (Muslim Qingzhen Fang)



This shop has a very halal name and is one of my favorite local restaurants. It is located outside the ancient city, near the Jialing River.



It was drizzling when I arrived, and many customers were eating under a canopy set up outside the door, which shows how busy the business is.



I am most satisfied with two things about this shop: the service and the taste of the dishes. When I first walked in, I asked for Zhangfei beef. After eating here, I learned the difference. The young waitress immediately corrected me, saying that Hui Muslims here call it salt leaf beef (yanyezi). Hui Muslims cannot eat Zhangfei beef; only salt leaf beef, which has been slaughtered by an imam (ahong), is permissible. That is how I learned the facts about salt leaf beef that I mentioned earlier.



I saw a few families in the shop having a gathering (dost) for a religious event (nietie). They were wearing prayer caps and sounded like locals.



I finally got to eat authentic salt leaf beef. It looked very appetizing. On the way to the ancient city, the driver told me they have been eating Hui Muslim beef since they were kids, but they do not know how it is made because the recipe is kept secret.



I had a snack made with sunflower seeds and yam. It was soft and fluffy, crispy on the outside and tender on the inside.



This is a famous Sichuan dish called twice-cooked pork (huiguorou). The Hui Muslim version is made with beef and is a common home-style dish.



I wanted to order a soup, since soup is the best part of Sichuan cuisine, but the waitress said I was alone and offered to bring me a free bowl of winter melon soup instead. She was worried I would order too much to finish. Such thoughtful service really touched me. Prices inside and outside the ancient city are about the same, and my meal of three dishes and one soup only cost a little over 100 yuan.



After eating my fill, I wandered around the ancient city and found many more things. These Wenxian beef buns (niuroubao) look very authentic.

















I won't introduce every single shop here. If you have the chance to visit Langzhong Ancient City, you can just walk along the main road and discover them yourself.

Baba Mosque (Baba Si) in Langzhong.



As the most important holy site of the Qadiriyya (Gaderenye) order, Baba Mosque was built during the Kangxi reign of the Qing Dynasty. It houses the gongbei of the order's founder, Khwaja Abdullah, who was the 29th-generation descendant of the Prophet Muhammad.

Qadiriyya, sometimes translated as Gaderenye, means 'The All-Powerful' in Arabic. This Sunni order follows the Hanafi school of law. It was founded in the 12th century by the Iranian scholar Abdul Qadir Gilani (1078–1166) and became popular in Baghdad.



After the holy descendant Khwaja Abdullah passed away, his disciples Qi Jingyi and Ma Ziyun built a gongbei at the place where he used to meditate. They named it 'Jiuzhao Pavilion.' It covers 20 mu of land with a building area of 1,800 square meters.





Qadiriyya is a unique Sufi order among the Hui Muslims in China. Its teachings incorporate many ideas from Confucianism and Taoism, especially Taoism. Khwaja Abdullah was once known as the Taoist Ancestor of Panlong Mountain.



Other Qadiriyya gongbei sites in Sichuan include those at Jiangjun Bridge in Guangyuan, Suojia Gou in Qingchuan, Haoxi in Qingchuan, and the upper and lower gongbei in Songpan.



The Qadiriyya lineage is: Qi Jingyi -> Ma Changqing -> the Feng and Yun generations (unknown) -> Ma Guiyue of Hezhou Bafang -> Zhou Daoxian of Hezhou Jiezi -> Su Dongchuan of Hezhou Xiaoxiguan -> Chen Yongnan -> Chen Shixu.





Baba Mosque preserves many stone tablets and plaques. The elder Chen Shixu once recounted: 'During the Cultural Revolution, I was the first person in Langzhong to stand up when the Red Guards from the normal school wanted to tear down Baba Mosque.' In the past, there was the Quotations from Chairman Mao, and I spent my days looking for those quotations. When the Red Guards arrived, I took down the plaque at the entrance, covered it in red mud, and wrote 'Long live Chairman Mao' on it. This way, they could not tear it down. I used a trick to 'borrow a knife to kill,' and that is how I saved dozens of old Qing Dynasty plaques inside the gongbei. There are two large jars in the gongbei; one is from the Shunzhi era and the other is from the Daoguang era. When ethnic and religious policies were first restored, the jar from the Shunzhi era was valued at one million, and the one from the Daoguang era was valued at seven hundred thousand. In the flower hall of the gongbei, there are two stone tablets: the Tablet of the Ancestral Master (Shizu Shangren Bei) and the Record of the First Master (Xianshi Beiji). Later, when they wanted to build a road through the gongbei courtyard and tear down these two tablets, they pointed their guns at me. I said, 'You can kill me, but you still cannot move them.' The history of Baba Mosque (Baba Si) today comes from these two tablets; without them, the history of Baba Mosque would be impossible to explain. —Excerpt from Ma Wenkui's 'Interviews with Chen Shixu During His Lifetime'



The teachings of the Qadiriyya menhuan cannot be summarized simply in words, and there are many internal branches, such as those who advocate for monastic life and those who advocate for marriage while practicing the faith. In recent years, I have visited the gongbei more often, which seems to have given me some understanding of the menhuan and corrected some of my own biases.



Take missionary work, for example. Sometimes just dryly preaching the law is hard to move people's hearts, but through the atmosphere created by Sufi rituals, an indescribable feeling can open people's hearts. The respect Sufis show for scholars is actually respect for knowledge, so while mourning the sages, they are also able to spread knowledge.









I happened to arrive when some friends (dosti) were holding a memorial service (ermali) for the Baba. I joined in to share the blessings. The whole ceremony lasted nearly an hour, and I saw them place a bag of white powder in front of them that looked like white sugar.



After the ceremony, the believers walked around the shrine (gongbei) several times.



This plaque hangs inside the shrine (gongbei) and was respectfully presented by a believer named Wang Aishe from Xunhua, Qinghai.





Holding a seminar on the Sinicization of Islam at the Baba Mosque in Langzhong is perfect, as the Qadiriyya order is a classic example of the fusion between Islam and Taoism.



The Great Shrine (Da Gongbei) sect (menhuan) is the main successor and propagator of the Qadiriyya order in China. It is commonly known as the Qi Family Shrine (Qi Jia Gongbei) and was founded by Qi Jingyi.

In the 11th year of the Kangxi reign, the 25th-generation descendant of the Prophet, Khwaja Hidayatullah Afaq Manshur, came to Qinghai to preach. Qi Jingyi heard this and followed the founder of the Bijiachang sect (menhuan), Abd al-Rahmani, to Xining to seek guidance. The Prophet's descendant Hidayatullah only taught Abd al-Rahmani and told Qi Jingyi to continue waiting for his teacher to arrive. It was not until the 13th year of the Kangxi reign that Qi Jingyi was accepted as a student by the Prophet's descendant Khwaja Abdullah, and he began his life of religious devotion.

Langzhong Mosque



Langzhong Mosque was first built in the 8th year of the Kangxi reign (1669). It was managed by the Baoning garrison commander Ma Ziyun and others, and was designed and built by civil engineering experts from Shaanxi and Gansu who modeled it after the Huajue Lane Mosque in Xi'an.



The most famous imam in the history of this mosque was Ma Tengyi, who later became a student of Qi Jingyi. The current imam, Halim, is a descendant of Ma Tengyi and the son of Imam Baifu from the Taizi Shrine (gongbei). It happened to be Friday (Jumu'ah) that day, and Imam Ma led the prayers. About 20 people attended. The imam spoke about the bitter history of the Langzhong religious community and lamented that social morals are declining and fewer people are coming to the mosque.



There is a couplet on the mosque gate written by the Northern Sichuan garrison commander Ma Ziyun.







My Langzhong Islamic tour ends here. Next, I will introduce another holy site of the Qadiriyya order, Luling Mosque in Xixiang County, Shaanxi.



To be continued...

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Halal food map for the Bashu region (Longnan, Guangyuan, Chengdu, and Chongqing) view all

Reposted from the web

Summary: This China mosque map continues the original series with locations, history notes, regional mosque names, and photos from Ningxia to Shenzhen and Wuhan. It is formatted for readers searching for mosque locations and Muslim travel history in China.

The last issue of the China Mosque Map introduced some mosques I have visited. I chose the ones I personally find unique, but space was limited, so I will introduce more in this issue. Many friends left comments asking why I did not introduce their local mosques. The reason is simply that I have not been there. As a Hui Muslim from Niujie in Beijing, I did not even introduce the Niujie Mosque right at my doorstep. I thought everyone knew about it, so I did not mention it. It turns out that not a single person in the comments asked why I left out the Niujie Mosque.

I will not talk about food during Ramadan and will continue to share mosque photos with you instead.

Xiji County, Ningxia

Shagou Gongbei



Shagou Gongbei was first built during the Guangxu reign of the Qing Dynasty. Ma Yuanzhang, the seventh-generation successor of the Jahriyya menhuan, was initially buried here, but his remains were later moved to Zhangjiachuan, Gansu.











Zhongning County, Ningxia

Honggang Gangzi Gongbei



Honggang Gangzi Gongbei was built in 1939. It is the gongbei for Hong Shoulin, the founder of the Hongmen branch of the Khufiyya menhuan. It was damaged during the Cultural Revolution and rebuilt in 1987 under the organization of Hong Weizong, the third-generation successor of the Hongmen. The site covers 20,000 square meters and includes a canteen, living quarters, a bathhouse, a mosque, and the gongbei.















Tongxin County, Ningxia

Tongxin Great Mosque



Tongxin Great Mosque was first built in the early Ming Dynasty on the site of a collapsed Lama mosque. It has a history of about 600 years. It was renovated three times during the Ming and Qing dynasties. In 1936, when the Red Army marched west, they established the Yuhai County Hui Muslim Autonomous Government of the Shaan-Gan-Ning Border Region here.

















Guangdong, Shenzhen

Mosque



When I came to Shenzhen in 2015, this place was still a construction site. Today, a modern-style mosque with five floors above ground and one underground has been built. Shenzhen Mosque was completed in 2016. The main building has a prayer hall on every floor and a restaurant on the first floor.











Hubei, Xiangyang

Laohekou Mosque



Laohekou City Mosque in Hubei is the first Ikhwan (Yihewani) mosque in China. It was first built in the third year of the Xianfeng reign of the Qing Dynasty (1853). It has a history of 150 years and covers an area of 800 square meters. Ma Wanfu (Guoyuan), the advocate of the Ikhwan sect, once taught at Laohekou Mosque. In the autumn of 1940, the Hubei Provincial Branch of the China Islamic National Salvation Association moved to Laohekou, with its headquarters located inside the mosque. Today, this place no longer emphasizes sectarian differences.











Hubei, Wuhan

Ma Si Baba Gongbei



Ma Quan (1596–1678) was a famous Islamic scholar during the late Ming and early Qing dynasties. He was a third-generation student of Hu Dengzhou. His courtesy name was Minglong, and he was honored as Ma Si Baba. He was a Hui Muslim from Jiangxia, Hubei (modern-day Wuchang). Local folklore tells a fun story about Ma Si Baba having a magical duel with Zhang Sanfeng.















Shiyan, Hubei

Mosque



Shiyan Mosque was built in 1991. It is the first mosque in Shiyan city, and it was led by Imam Ma Wenxue from Ningxia.









Nanchang, Jiangxi

Cuxiang Mosque



Nanchang Cuxiang Mosque was first built in 1824. It is the only mosque in Nanchang city.









Sanya, Hainan

Huihui Village, Northwest Mosque



The Northwest Grand Mosque was originally called the West Mosque. It was first built during the Tang Dynasty. Its original site was in Huixin Village, which is now the Huixin community. In 1937, the Japanese landed on Hainan Island. To expand their military base and because Huixin Village had a strategic location for controlling the South China Sea, they forced all the Hui Muslims out of Huixin Village and into Huihui Village, which is now the Huihui community. At that time, the four mosques in Huixin Village—the North Mosque, West Mosque, Old Mosque, and South Mosque—were all torn down. Later, the West Mosque and North Mosque merged to form the Northwest Grand Mosque, which was rebuilt in Huihui Village in 1944. There are four mosques in Huihui Village. In 2015, the Northwest Grand Mosque built a high-rise teaching building with eight standard classrooms and two multi-purpose rooms. It can hold over 300 Muslim students at the same time, as shown in the picture below.











Sanya, Hainan

Huihui Village Old Mosque



The Huihui Village Old Mosque was first built in the sixth year of the Chenghua reign of the Ming Dynasty (1470). According to the Ming Dynasty's "Qiongzhou Prefecture Gazetteer" and the early Qing Dynasty's "Complete Collection of Illustrations and Writings of Ancient and Modern Times: Section on Geography," the ancestors of the Hui Muslims arrived by boat with their families between the Song and Yuan dynasties from Champa (near present-day Binh Dinh Province, Vietnam) and settled along the coast.







Xishuangbanna, Yunnan

Menghai County Mosque



Menghai Mosque is located on the Old North Street in the town of Menghai County, Xishuangbanna Prefecture, Yunnan Province. It was first built in the 1930s.









Xishuangbanna, Yunnan

Manluan Hui Mosque



The Hui Muslims of Manluan village take Dai names, wear Dai clothing, and speak the Dai language, yet they practice Islam. The men wear white caps and the women wear headscarves. Their lifestyle blends Dai traditions with Hui Muslim customs. The local Dai people call them 'Paxi Dai,' which means 'Hui Dai'.







Dali, Yunnan

Ximen Mosque



Dali Ximen Mosque was built in the Yuan Dynasty (1278 AD). Located inside the Dali Ancient City, it is the mosque where the famous Islamic scholar Bao Shan Zhenren began his teaching.









Dali, Yunnan

Nanmen Mosque



Dali Nanmen Mosque was built in the Yuan Dynasty and is one of the 100 ancient mosques in China. Before the failure of the Du Wenxiu Uprising, the mosque was located on Cangping Street, as recorded in The Travel Diaries of Xu Xiake. After the Du Wenxiu Uprising failed, the Qing government's post-war committee seized the mosque and its 120 mu of mosque land as rebel property. The mosque was turned into a City God Mosque, and in 1944, it became a local court. The current Nanmen Mosque is located inside the Dali Ancient City.









Lhasa, Tibet

Kachilin Ka East Mosque and West Mosque



The East Mosque and West Mosque in Lhasa's Kachi Linka are separated by only one wall at the back of the park. The East Mosque was built in 1655, and the West Mosque was built in 1775.











Lhasa, Tibet

Small Mosque



The Lhasa Small Mosque was built in the 1920s with funds raised for Muslim traders from Kashmir, Ladakh, Bhutan, Nepal, and Britain. It is located in the southern part of Barkhor Street in Lhasa's old town, just a few hundred meters from the Lhasa Great Mosque. Inside the entrance is a washing room, and the wall decorations are in a Tibetan style.







Shanghai

Huxi Mosque



Huxi Mosque, originally named Xiaoshadu Mosque and also known as Yaoshuinong Mosque, was built in 1914. It is commonly called the Old Mosque. Every Friday, a bazaar market is held near the mosque during Jumu'ah.





Hefei, Anhui

Mosque



Hefei Mosque was built during the Hongwu period of the Ming Dynasty. It was damaged but expanded after being returned in 1981. The current imam is Xu Zhihai.









Nanjing, Jiangsu

Caoqiao Mosque



Caoqiao Mosque is located on the former Caoqiao Street in Nanjing, which is how it got its name. It was first built during the Qianlong reign of the Qing Dynasty (1736–1795) and was destroyed by fire during the Taiping Rebellion. The mosque founded Dunmu Primary School in the early years of the Republic of China, with Yi Yufang serving as the first principal.











Yangzhou, Jiangsu

Puhading Mosque



Puhading Cemetery is commonly known as the Baba Kiln (Baba Yao) and is also called the Hui Muslim Hall (Huihui Tang). It covers 25 mu of land and consists of three parts: an ancient mosque, an ancient cemetery, and a classical garden. Puhading Garden was first built in the first year of the Deyou reign of the Song Dynasty (1275 AD) to honor Puhading, a 16th-generation descendant of the Prophet Muhammad.

















Taizhou, Jiangsu

Mosque



Taizhou Mosque was built in 2012 and is the first mosque in Taizhou City.







Shaoxing, Zhejiang

Pakistan Keqiao Community



Shaoxing has five prayer spots, and this is the largest one. It is a temporary religious site. If you cannot find a mosque in a southern city, just ask at a local hand-pulled noodle shop (lamian guan) to find out where the prayer spots are.











Huangnan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Qinghai

Kangjia Mosque



This mosque was first built in the 16th year of the Yongle reign of the Ming Dynasty (1418). It is one of the oldest mosques in the pastoral areas of Qinghai Province.







Xunhua, Qinghai

Jiezi Mosque



Jiezi Grand Mosque is the second largest mosque in Qinghai. It is located in Sanlanbahai Village, Jiezi Township, Xunhua Salar Autonomous County. It houses a handwritten Quran brought by the ancestors of the Salar people when they moved east 700 years ago.









Jianza, Qinghai

Maketang Grand Mosque



This mosque was completed in 2018. It is the first mosque in Maketang Town, Jianza County, in the Tibetan region.

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