Exploring 6 Historic Qing-Dynasty Mosques in Zhaotong, Yunnan: A Halal Travel Guide
[Internet Repost]
A Study of Six Traditional Historic Mosques in Zhaotong, Yunnan: Historical Origins of 'Gaituguiqiu' and a Complete Photo Collection of Ming and Qing Chinese-Style Palace Mosques
Abstract:
A detailed investigation of six precious traditional Ming and Qing-style historic mosques in Zhaotong, Yunnan. Combining the historical context of 'gaituguiqiu' (replacing native chieftains with imperial officials) during the reign of Emperor Yongzheng with the ancestral origins of General Ha Yuansheng's soldiers who settled in the region, this guide features nearly 80 precious real-life shots documenting the Sino-Arabic blended artistry of double-eave Xieshan roofs, exquisite carved water-milled bricks, wooden beams and rafters, and Arabic scripture plaques.
In August 2020, during our honeymoon trip, Zainab and I went to Zhaotong to hang out, and sister Azi showed us around Zhaotong's gorgeous traditional mosques.
During the Ming Dynasty, Zhaotong belonged to the Wumeng Native Prefecture and was governed by Yi ethnic chieftains. In 1726 (the fourth year of Emperor Yongzheng's reign), Yun-Gui Governor-General Ortai began implementing 'gaituguiqiu' (replacing native chieftains with imperial officials) in Wumeng. The Wumeng Native Prefecture raised troops to resist, and Weining Central Division Major Ha Yuansheng, alongside Central Division commander Liu Qiyuan, crushed the Wumeng Native Prefecture and local chieftains everywhere, finally completing the 'gaituguiqiu' and renaming Wumeng to Zhaotong. Ha Yuansheng was a Hui Muslim originally from Hejian, Hebei. During the 'gaituguiqiu' campaign, some Hui soldiers followed Ha Yuansheng into Zhaotong, and after the war ended, they 'registered their land and settled down.'
After Wumeng was pacified in 1732 (the tenth year of Emperor Yongzheng's reign), because the war had caused a sharp drop in the population, the newly appointed Yun-Gui Governor-General Gao Qizhuo ordered the reclamation of wasteland for garrison farming. Hui Muslim families and entire villages from the neighboring Weining area in Guizhou moved into Zhaotong to claim land, causing the Hui population in Zhaotong to surge. Most of the traditional mosques still standing today were built during this period.
1. Tuogu Grand Mosque: 1730
2. Longtouxiang Mosque: 1746
3. Chachong Mosque: 1734
4. Tiejiawan Mosque: 1738
5. Baxian Grand Mosque: 1779
6. Songjiashan Mosque: 1730
1. Tuogu Grand Mosque: 1730
On the morning of August 10, sister Azi drove us from Zhaotong to Ludian to kick off our tour of traditional mosques. Our first stop was Ludian's most famous Tuogu Grand Mosque.
We received a super warm welcome from Imam Hai at Tuogu Mosque, and he walked us through the history and various legends of Tuogu Mosque in great detail.
According to the stone inscriptions, Tuogu Mosque was built in 1730 when Anlong Town Central Division Imperial Guard Ma Xiangqian and conquering imperial examination graduates, the brothers Ma Lincan and Ma Linchi, donated funds to build the main prayer hall. In 1755, at the suggestion of Imam Sai Huanzhang, local fellow Muslims pooled funds to build the minaret (唤醒楼, huanxinglou), side halls, and other structures.
Before stepping into the masjid, the first thing that catches your eye is the hexagonal, triple-eaved, pyramidal-roofed minaret, with the three-bay wooden 'Wujuan Hall' (Hall of Indefatigable Study) right below it. Hanging on the minaret is a plaque reading 'Universal Mercy Over All Creation' (普慈万有), which was gifted in 1746 by Ye Daxiong, the Imperial Garrison General of Eastern Zhaotong, Yunnan and hereditary Cavalry Captain. This plaque originally hung in the main prayer hall and was later moved to the minaret.
Imam Hai pointed out that some of the stone pillars of the minaret actually feature ancient fossils—something you probably won't find in any other mosque anywhere else.
Passing through the Wujuan Hall brings you to the courtyard, where four ancient cypress trees are planted, and right across from them sits the main prayer hall. The center of the main hall reads 'Happy Paradise' (快乐天堂), and around it are eight Arabic calligraphy panels which, according to Imam Hai, were penned by the mosque's second imam, the senior elder Sai Huanzhang Sai Lao Baba.
Inside the main hall is the Mihrab (窑殿, yaodian—the prayer niche), and its roof is also a pyramidal-pavilion style structure, echoing the minaret in the distance.
An ancient Qing Dynasty tabu box (wooden box used for religious items), which Imam Hai said they don't use anymore because it's just way too heavy.
A stone stele dating back to the Qianlong Emperor's reign.
2. Longtouxiang Mosque: 1746
After checking out Tuogu Grand Mosque, we headed over to another famous historic mosque in Ludian, Longtouxiang Mosque, where we were warmly welcomed by Imam Ma Liming.
Built in 1746, Longtouxiang Mosque follows traditional Yunnan mosque architectural style, featuring a courtyard enclosed by a minaret, north and south side halls, and the main prayer hall. Unlike Tuogu Grand Mosque, Longtouxiang Mosque's Mihrab doesn't have a pyramidal pavilion on top, and its minaret only has four corners and two eaves, making its grandeur slightly milder than Tuogu's.
Longtouxiang's newly built prayer hall is entirely wooden and super majestic—you can spot it from way down the road. I’m totally down with this approach of building a new hall nearby without destroying historic cultural relics. Over the last few years, I’ve seen way too many places ruthlessly tear down centuries-old heritage architecture just to build a new hall.
3. Chachong Mosque: 1734
After leaving Longtouxiang Mosque, we hit up another historic mosque in Ludian, Chachong Mosque. Built in 1734, Chachong Mosque's minaret is a three-story, hexagonal, pyramidal-roofed structure just like the one at Tuogu Grand Mosque, only slightly smaller in scale. Hanging at the entrance of the main hall is a plaque reading 'Profound Mystery and Great Might' (玄奇大能) erected in reverence by Sa Depin in 1906.
Chachong Mosque is also gorgeous, though it's not quite as famous as nearby Tuogu Mosque and Longtouxiang Mosque. When we dropped by for a visit, the imam happened to be away attending a religious gathering at Longtouxiang Mosque, but the imam’s daughter was an old friend of sister Azi, so we all had a great time chatting together.
4. Tiejiawan Mosque: 1738
From Chachong Mosque, we headed over to Tiejiawan Mosque. Back in 1731, the Tie family settled down in the northeastern part of the Taoyuan basin in Ludian. In 1738, Tie Wanxuan, along with Tie Wanjin and Tie Zhongxuan, talked things over and decided to build Tiejiawan Mosque right on top of a little hill sitting between the villages of Tiejiawan and Tie Jiamen, with Tie Wanxuan stepping up as the imam.
Above the main hall's entrance hangs a plaque reading 'Great Virtue Transforms All' (Dade Dunhua), gifted in 1810 by Da Xiong, the hereditary commander-in-chief and military governor of Zhaotong Dongxiong and surrounding areas, alongside another plaque reading 'Pure and Elegant Transformation' (Qingzhen Yahua), erected in 1844 by Tie Chengjin from the Zhaotong Left Garrison.
5. Baxian Grand Mosque: 1779
Heading back to Zhaotong from Ludian as the evening rolled in, we made our way to Baxian Grand Mosque, easily the most famous masjid in Zhaotong.
Baxian Grand Mosque was first built in 1731 and rebuilt in 1779. After the Wumeng region was pacified in 1730, Zhaotong's old city was pretty much in ruins, so the military headquarters was temporarily set up at Baxian Grand Mosque. The very next year, the mosque launched Zhaoyang Academy right here—the first academy established in Zhaotong after the imperial court replaced local chieftains with appointed officials (gaitu guiliu). In 1898, Baxian Grand Mosque brought on Grand Imam Ma Minglun to lead the community, and the masjid was chosen by the thirty-six mosques across Zhaotong, Weining, and Ludian to serve as the head administrative masjid.
Flanking the entrance of the main hall are stone-carved couplets reading, 'Conquering one's own ego is the true path; returning to the divine law allows one to stand before Allah in prayer.' Up above in the main hall hangs a super unique Arabic wooden plaque inscribed with verses from Surah Az-Zukhruf (Chapter 43, Verse 44) of the Qur'an. Right behind the main hall sits the yaodian (dome-like rear prayer tower) featuring a triple-eaved, four-sided pyramidal roof.
6. Songjiashan Mosque: 1730
That evening, we caught the Maghrib prayer at Songjiashan Mosque. It was still dusk when we walked into the hall, but by the time we finished praying and stepped outside, night had completely fallen.
Songjiashan Mosque isn't far from Baxian Grand Mosque, and it's another seriously gorgeous historic masjid. In the early Yongzheng years, when the imperial government reformed the administrative system in Zhaotong, a branch of the Ma family from Xiaba in Weining followed General Hasenyuan—who had led troops to pacify Wumeng—straight to Zhaotong. They ended up settling by Baxian Lake and built Songjiashan Mosque in 1730. Songjiashan Mosque shares the exact same historical background as Baxian Grand Mosque, though because the local Muslim population was smaller, it's not quite as massive.
Songjiashan Mosque started painting the gorgeous ceiling murals inside its main hall in 1762, and the whole interior renovation was finally wrapped up in 1832, making it an insanely precious artistic treasure tucked inside the masjid.
A Study of Six Traditional Historic Mosques in Zhaotong, Yunnan: Historical Origins of 'Gaituguiqiu' and a Complete Photo Collection of Ming and Qing Chinese-Style Palace Mosques
Abstract:
A detailed investigation of six precious traditional Ming and Qing-style historic mosques in Zhaotong, Yunnan. Combining the historical context of 'gaituguiqiu' (replacing native chieftains with imperial officials) during the reign of Emperor Yongzheng with the ancestral origins of General Ha Yuansheng's soldiers who settled in the region, this guide features nearly 80 precious real-life shots documenting the Sino-Arabic blended artistry of double-eave Xieshan roofs, exquisite carved water-milled bricks, wooden beams and rafters, and Arabic scripture plaques.
In August 2020, during our honeymoon trip, Zainab and I went to Zhaotong to hang out, and sister Azi showed us around Zhaotong's gorgeous traditional mosques.
During the Ming Dynasty, Zhaotong belonged to the Wumeng Native Prefecture and was governed by Yi ethnic chieftains. In 1726 (the fourth year of Emperor Yongzheng's reign), Yun-Gui Governor-General Ortai began implementing 'gaituguiqiu' (replacing native chieftains with imperial officials) in Wumeng. The Wumeng Native Prefecture raised troops to resist, and Weining Central Division Major Ha Yuansheng, alongside Central Division commander Liu Qiyuan, crushed the Wumeng Native Prefecture and local chieftains everywhere, finally completing the 'gaituguiqiu' and renaming Wumeng to Zhaotong. Ha Yuansheng was a Hui Muslim originally from Hejian, Hebei. During the 'gaituguiqiu' campaign, some Hui soldiers followed Ha Yuansheng into Zhaotong, and after the war ended, they 'registered their land and settled down.'
After Wumeng was pacified in 1732 (the tenth year of Emperor Yongzheng's reign), because the war had caused a sharp drop in the population, the newly appointed Yun-Gui Governor-General Gao Qizhuo ordered the reclamation of wasteland for garrison farming. Hui Muslim families and entire villages from the neighboring Weining area in Guizhou moved into Zhaotong to claim land, causing the Hui population in Zhaotong to surge. Most of the traditional mosques still standing today were built during this period.
1. Tuogu Grand Mosque: 1730
2. Longtouxiang Mosque: 1746
3. Chachong Mosque: 1734
4. Tiejiawan Mosque: 1738
5. Baxian Grand Mosque: 1779
6. Songjiashan Mosque: 1730
1. Tuogu Grand Mosque: 1730
On the morning of August 10, sister Azi drove us from Zhaotong to Ludian to kick off our tour of traditional mosques. Our first stop was Ludian's most famous Tuogu Grand Mosque.
We received a super warm welcome from Imam Hai at Tuogu Mosque, and he walked us through the history and various legends of Tuogu Mosque in great detail.
According to the stone inscriptions, Tuogu Mosque was built in 1730 when Anlong Town Central Division Imperial Guard Ma Xiangqian and conquering imperial examination graduates, the brothers Ma Lincan and Ma Linchi, donated funds to build the main prayer hall. In 1755, at the suggestion of Imam Sai Huanzhang, local fellow Muslims pooled funds to build the minaret (唤醒楼, huanxinglou), side halls, and other structures.
Before stepping into the masjid, the first thing that catches your eye is the hexagonal, triple-eaved, pyramidal-roofed minaret, with the three-bay wooden 'Wujuan Hall' (Hall of Indefatigable Study) right below it. Hanging on the minaret is a plaque reading 'Universal Mercy Over All Creation' (普慈万有), which was gifted in 1746 by Ye Daxiong, the Imperial Garrison General of Eastern Zhaotong, Yunnan and hereditary Cavalry Captain. This plaque originally hung in the main prayer hall and was later moved to the minaret.
Imam Hai pointed out that some of the stone pillars of the minaret actually feature ancient fossils—something you probably won't find in any other mosque anywhere else.
Passing through the Wujuan Hall brings you to the courtyard, where four ancient cypress trees are planted, and right across from them sits the main prayer hall. The center of the main hall reads 'Happy Paradise' (快乐天堂), and around it are eight Arabic calligraphy panels which, according to Imam Hai, were penned by the mosque's second imam, the senior elder Sai Huanzhang Sai Lao Baba.
Inside the main hall is the Mihrab (窑殿, yaodian—the prayer niche), and its roof is also a pyramidal-pavilion style structure, echoing the minaret in the distance.
An ancient Qing Dynasty tabu box (wooden box used for religious items), which Imam Hai said they don't use anymore because it's just way too heavy.
A stone stele dating back to the Qianlong Emperor's reign.
2. Longtouxiang Mosque: 1746
After checking out Tuogu Grand Mosque, we headed over to another famous historic mosque in Ludian, Longtouxiang Mosque, where we were warmly welcomed by Imam Ma Liming.
Built in 1746, Longtouxiang Mosque follows traditional Yunnan mosque architectural style, featuring a courtyard enclosed by a minaret, north and south side halls, and the main prayer hall. Unlike Tuogu Grand Mosque, Longtouxiang Mosque's Mihrab doesn't have a pyramidal pavilion on top, and its minaret only has four corners and two eaves, making its grandeur slightly milder than Tuogu's.
Longtouxiang's newly built prayer hall is entirely wooden and super majestic—you can spot it from way down the road. I’m totally down with this approach of building a new hall nearby without destroying historic cultural relics. Over the last few years, I’ve seen way too many places ruthlessly tear down centuries-old heritage architecture just to build a new hall.
3. Chachong Mosque: 1734
After leaving Longtouxiang Mosque, we hit up another historic mosque in Ludian, Chachong Mosque. Built in 1734, Chachong Mosque's minaret is a three-story, hexagonal, pyramidal-roofed structure just like the one at Tuogu Grand Mosque, only slightly smaller in scale. Hanging at the entrance of the main hall is a plaque reading 'Profound Mystery and Great Might' (玄奇大能) erected in reverence by Sa Depin in 1906.
Chachong Mosque is also gorgeous, though it's not quite as famous as nearby Tuogu Mosque and Longtouxiang Mosque. When we dropped by for a visit, the imam happened to be away attending a religious gathering at Longtouxiang Mosque, but the imam’s daughter was an old friend of sister Azi, so we all had a great time chatting together.
4. Tiejiawan Mosque: 1738
From Chachong Mosque, we headed over to Tiejiawan Mosque. Back in 1731, the Tie family settled down in the northeastern part of the Taoyuan basin in Ludian. In 1738, Tie Wanxuan, along with Tie Wanjin and Tie Zhongxuan, talked things over and decided to build Tiejiawan Mosque right on top of a little hill sitting between the villages of Tiejiawan and Tie Jiamen, with Tie Wanxuan stepping up as the imam.
Above the main hall's entrance hangs a plaque reading 'Great Virtue Transforms All' (Dade Dunhua), gifted in 1810 by Da Xiong, the hereditary commander-in-chief and military governor of Zhaotong Dongxiong and surrounding areas, alongside another plaque reading 'Pure and Elegant Transformation' (Qingzhen Yahua), erected in 1844 by Tie Chengjin from the Zhaotong Left Garrison.
5. Baxian Grand Mosque: 1779
Heading back to Zhaotong from Ludian as the evening rolled in, we made our way to Baxian Grand Mosque, easily the most famous masjid in Zhaotong.
Baxian Grand Mosque was first built in 1731 and rebuilt in 1779. After the Wumeng region was pacified in 1730, Zhaotong's old city was pretty much in ruins, so the military headquarters was temporarily set up at Baxian Grand Mosque. The very next year, the mosque launched Zhaoyang Academy right here—the first academy established in Zhaotong after the imperial court replaced local chieftains with appointed officials (gaitu guiliu). In 1898, Baxian Grand Mosque brought on Grand Imam Ma Minglun to lead the community, and the masjid was chosen by the thirty-six mosques across Zhaotong, Weining, and Ludian to serve as the head administrative masjid.
Flanking the entrance of the main hall are stone-carved couplets reading, 'Conquering one's own ego is the true path; returning to the divine law allows one to stand before Allah in prayer.' Up above in the main hall hangs a super unique Arabic wooden plaque inscribed with verses from Surah Az-Zukhruf (Chapter 43, Verse 44) of the Qur'an. Right behind the main hall sits the yaodian (dome-like rear prayer tower) featuring a triple-eaved, four-sided pyramidal roof.
6. Songjiashan Mosque: 1730
That evening, we caught the Maghrib prayer at Songjiashan Mosque. It was still dusk when we walked into the hall, but by the time we finished praying and stepped outside, night had completely fallen.
Songjiashan Mosque isn't far from Baxian Grand Mosque, and it's another seriously gorgeous historic masjid. In the early Yongzheng years, when the imperial government reformed the administrative system in Zhaotong, a branch of the Ma family from Xiaba in Weining followed General Hasenyuan—who had led troops to pacify Wumeng—straight to Zhaotong. They ended up settling by Baxian Lake and built Songjiashan Mosque in 1730. Songjiashan Mosque shares the exact same historical background as Baxian Grand Mosque, though because the local Muslim population was smaller, it's not quite as massive.
Songjiashan Mosque started painting the gorgeous ceiling murals inside its main hall in 1762, and the whole interior renovation was finally wrapped up in 1832, making it an insanely precious artistic treasure tucked inside the masjid.
