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Summary: This Muslim travel guide to Medina covers Umrah preparation, the Prophet Mosque, high-speed rail from Jeddah, Medina hotels, Al-Ghamama Mosque, Quba Mosque, Uhud, Qiblatayn Mosque, and other sacred Islamic sites.

Map of Sacred Sites in Medina is presented here as a firsthand travel account in clear English, beginning with this scene: This year, I successfully took my family of three to complete the Umrah. My son, Fahim, is likely the youngest little Haji in the Beijing area ever, at less than two years old. The account keeps its focus on Mosque Travel, Islamic Heritage, Beijing while preserving the names, places, food, and historical details from the Chinese source.

This year, I successfully took my family of three to complete the Umrah. My son, Fahim, is likely the youngest little Haji in the Beijing area ever, at less than two years old. However, for a minor, both the Hajj and Umrah only count as voluntary acts of worship. He will need to perform the Hajj again after he reaches adulthood to fulfill his religious obligation.

I will explain the Umrah process in detail in my Mecca travelogue. Saudi Arabia's current tourist visa includes an Umrah option. Just check that box under the travel destination section and apply for an e-visa at this website: https://visa.visitsaudi.com/.

The Saudi tourist e-visa is approved instantly. Once you pay, the visa is issued. It costs 488 Saudi Riyals, which is about 930 RMB. It is valid for one year, allows multiple entries, and you can stay for up to 90 days each time.

Before starting our Umrah, we arrived in Medina from Jeddah. Medina is where the Prophet Muhammad migrated and passed away. Praying one unit of namaz in the Prophet's Mosque is worth more than a thousand prayers in other mosques, and some say it is worth fifty thousand. Regardless of the exact number, it shows the importance of the Prophet's Mosque. Medina is perfect for peaceful worship. The temperature here is cooler than in Mecca. In December, there is a big difference between day and night temperatures, so you need to add or remove layers of clothing. Many pilgrims prepare for their Umrah in Medina and make their intention to enter the state of ihram there.



You need to buy tickets for the high-speed train from Jeddah to Medina on the official Saudi app called HHR Train. I suggest ordering a few days in advance because if you buy them at the station on the day of travel, you might not get a seat. We traveled in December, which is the coolest season in Saudi Arabia. It is about 20 degrees Celsius during the day and over 10 degrees at night. This is also when the most people perform Umrah, so hotels and train tickets are in high demand.



I bought a coffee on the train. I stood between the train cars because our seats were taken by a veiled Arab woman. She sat in our spots with a little girl. When my wife told her the seats were ours, she said the seat next to her was for a man and she did not want to sit next to one. She had not bought a ticket for her child, did not understand why I bought a ticket for a toddler like Fahim, and insisted on staying in our seats.

I did not want to argue. The trip from Jeddah to Medina takes about two hours, so I just walked to the area between the cars. A passing train attendant saw me and told me I could sit in any empty seat.

A taxi from the station to the hotel usually costs 100 Saudi Riyals. There were seven of us, so we hired an Arab driver. It happened to be Friday, the day of Jumu'ah. Our hotel was right across from the Prophet's Mosque. The roads around the mosque were restricted, so the driver wanted to drop us off halfway and have us walk. I checked the map and we were still 3 kilometers away. It was noon with the sun beating down, and we had elderly people and children with us, so walking was very difficult. I insisted that the driver take us to our destination. The driver looked frustrated, drove a long way around, and finally dropped us off in front of the hotel. Then he asked for an extra 50 Riyals. After some bargaining, we gave him 5 more.

The Prophet's Mosque.



Our hotel was just across the street from the Prophet's Mosque. We could see the mosque from our room window. We did not even rest; we dropped off our luggage and went straight to the mosque to pray.



The Prophet's Mosque is the second-largest mosque in the world, after the Sacred Mosque in Mecca. It has a building area of 82,000 square meters. Including the plaza, it can hold 530,000 people for prayer at the same time. If you are in the south plaza and want to walk to the north gate, it takes at least 15 minutes. I once tried to meet a friend after the Fajr prayer. We were on opposite sides, north and south, and after waiting for 20 minutes, we still could not find each other.



When you arrive at the holy sites, you see people of all skin colors from around the world gathered together. The number of pilgrims grows every year, which is why Saudi Arabia keeps expanding the holy sites. People who live there often feel the strength of the faith. Some visitors from China feel sad when they see few people in local mosques, thinking faith is fading, but that is only true in some places. Looking at the world as a whole, the number of people practicing the faith is increasing every year.









The large umbrellas in the mosque courtyard open during the day and close at night. Shade is very precious in Saudi Arabia, as it is hard to handle the intense sun otherwise.





There are many water stations around the courtyard that provide free drinking water for believers.



To visit the Garden of Paradise (Rawdah), you must download an app called Nusuk and book a time. This is where the Prophet once prayed. The Prophet said, 'Between my house and my pulpit is one of the gardens of Paradise.' It is a pity I could not get a reservation, but men and women visit separately, and it is easier for women to book than men.



Fortunately, you do not need a reservation for the Prophet's Tomb. You just need to line up and follow the crowd. The Prophet's Tomb is right under the green dome. The green dome of the mosque was originally the house of Aisha, where the Prophet passed away and was buried.



Believers carry their shoes in their hands and walk barefoot into the Prophet's Tomb. Everything is orderly, and people respectfully offer their salaams to the Prophet.



The Caliphs Abu Bakr and Umar are also buried with the Prophet, and people offer their salaams to them as well.



The Prophet's Tomb is separated from the Garden of Paradise, and the Garden of Paradise is inside the railing. There is one empty space reserved in the tomb for when the Prophet Isa passes away. According to Abdullah ibn Salam (may Allah be pleased with him), the Torah describes the characteristics of the Prophet and states that Isa ibn Maryam will be buried alongside him. Abu Mawdud said, 'Indeed, there is still a grave site inside the house.' [Jami at-Tirmidhi: 3696]



Screenshot from History of Medina









Stand behind the railing and say your salam toward the round hole. You do not need to speak loudly; just recite it silently. Do not linger so you can make it easier for the brothers (dosti) behind you, because there are really too many people.







When I came out of the Prophet's tomb, I saw believers crying. They stood where they were, unable to bear leaving.





Inside the Prophet's Mosque, there are copies of the Quran in many languages, including a Chinese version.



Because the Holy Mosque is so large, many people stay in place to recite the Quran after finishing their namaz for convenience. There is also Zamzam water (senshen quan) provided in the main hall, with separate areas for men and women.









The Prophet's Mosque is crowded 24 hours a day, and there are even more people at night than during the day.







I actually saw Chinese signs at the stalls by the south gate of the Holy Mosque.



The signs at the main entrance also display different languages in turns, and I managed to snap a photo of the Chinese one.













































The north plaza of the Holy Mosque is busier than the south plaza and has more shops. If you are looking for a place to stay, you might want to prioritize the area near the north gate.



Many historical sites are scattered around the Prophet's Mosque. Due to historical changes, many no longer exist and only remain in books. Some of these historical sites are introduced below.

Al-Ghamama Mosque



Al-Ghamama Mosque (Almusalla Mosque - ALGhamama) is located on the southwest square next to the Prophet's Mosque. The Prophet led the Eid prayer here in 631. This place is also called the Mosque of the Prayer Ground. It was built by Umar ibn Abd al-Aziz, the eighth caliph of the Umayyad dynasty. The current building was constructed by Abdulmejid I of the Ottoman Empire and later renovated by the King of Saudi Arabia.















Abu Bakr As-Siddiq Mosque



Abu Bakr As-Siddiq Mosque is 40 meters away from Al-Ghamama Mosque. It is also the place where the Prophet led the Eid prayer in 631, and later Abu Bakr also prayed here. The current building was constructed by Mahmud Khan of the Ottoman Empire.







Umar ibn al-Khattab Mosque



Located 133 meters next to Al-Ghamama Mosque, it was built in the 9th century of the Hijri calendar. The mosque and its surrounding area are currently under renovation and are not open.

Ali Mosque



It is 122 meters away from Al-Ghamama Mosque and north of Abu Bakr As-Siddiq Mosque. The Prophet once led the Eid prayer here, and a mosque was later built on this site. It is currently not open.

Mount Uhud and the Martyrs' Cemetery



The black rocky mountain in the distance is Mount Uhud. The small hill at the foot of the mountain is the site of the Battle of Uhud. Mount Uhud is about 4 kilometers away from the Prophet's Mosque.

In 625, more than 3,000 polytheists from Mecca launched a major attack on Medina. The Prophet consulted with his companions and decided to lead 1,000 men to Mount Uhud to meet the enemy. After arriving at Mount Uhud, the hypocrite Abdullah ibn Ubayy secretly led his 300 soldiers away. The Prophet led the remaining 700-plus men to defeat the 3,000 Meccan polytheists. The Prophet was injured in this battle, and Allah revealed verses 121-180 of Surah Al-Imran in the Quran at this location.



You can see many people standing on the hill to commemorate this event.



The Uhud Martyrs Cemetery is built next to the hill. It is surrounded by a wire fence, so you cannot walk inside. It is fine to look from a distance, as visiting the martyrs' graves is a sunnah.



Uhud Martyrs Mosque (Sayyid Al-Shuhada)



The Martyrs Mosque is on the east side of the cemetery. It is not a historical site, as it was built in 2017.





Mosque of the Two Qiblas (Masjid al-Qiblatayn)



This mosque is on Khalid ibn al-Walid Street. The Prophet once led the noon namaz here. After two rak'ahs, he received a revelation from Allah (Surah Al-Baqarah, verse 144) to change the direction of prayer from Jerusalem to the Kaaba.





On the wall directly facing the mihrab, there is a commemorative marker for the Jerusalem direction.



Note that the prayer direction in this mosque is still toward the Kaaba, not both directions. The Jerusalem direction is in the opposite direction of the Kaaba.





Trench Battle Mosque Complex

The Battle of the Trench is also called the Battle of the Confederates. The Meccan polytheists fought a decisive battle against the Muslims of Medina. The companion Salman the Persian suggested digging a trench, and the Prophet accepted his advice. During this time, verses 9-25 of Surah Al-Ahzab and verse 26 of Surah Al-Imran were revealed. The trench started near the Mustarah Mosque and ended near Mount Sal, facing the Fath Mosque complex. It was 2.5 kilometers long, 3 meters deep, and 4 meters wide, but the historical trench has long been filled in.

The Fath (Seven) Mosque complex is part of the trench area. These mosques served as stations and lookout points during the battle. Each mosque is named after the companion who was stationed there, except for the Fath Mosque, which was built on the site of the dome the Prophet used. These mosques were built during the era of Umar ibn Abd al-Aziz and were restored at different times. The mosques are:

1. Ali Mosque

2. Abu Bakr Mosque.

3. Salman the Persian Mosque

4. Al-Fath Mosque

5. Umar Mosque

6. Sa'd ibn Mu'adh Mosque

Ali Mosque



Abu Bakr Mosque

















Salman Mosque







Al-Fath Mosque







Quba Mosque



Quba Mosque is 3.2 kilometers from the Prophet's Mosque. This is the site of the first mosque built by the Prophet and his companions in Medina. 'A mosque founded on righteousness from the first day is more worthy for you to stand in for prayer.' Verse 108 of the Repentance chapter in the Quran refers to Quba Mosque.



The Prophet said, 'Whoever performs wudu at home and then prays in Quba Mosque will receive the reward of an Umrah.' (Sunan Ibn Majah) People say those who live near Quba Mosque are blessed, as they can earn the reward of an Umrah just by performing namaz there.

Ring Well (Bir Aris)



Located on the west side of Quba Mosque, the Prophet once sat by this well with his legs dangling over it. Abu Bakr, Umar, and Uthman later came to see him and sat by the well as well, where the Prophet gave them the glad tidings of Paradise. (Sahih Muslim 2403)

The Prophet once wore a ring, which later passed to Abu Bakr, then to Umar, and finally to Uthman. Uthman accidentally dropped the ring into this well. The ring was engraved with the words, 'Muhammad is the Messenger of Allah.'

This well was filled in at the end of the 14th century of the Hijri calendar to widen the road, and only the circle shown in the photo remains as a marker.

Jumu'ah Mosque



While traveling to Medina on a Friday, the Prophet performed his first Jumu'ah prayer with the Banu Salim tribe. He later built a mosque on that spot, which is now known as Jumu'ah Mosque, located one kilometer from Quba Mosque.







Aris Well



Aris Well is located one kilometer northeast of Quba Mosque. The Prophet often drank water from here and requested that this well's water be used to wash his body after he passed away.







This well is usually open for a short time in the afternoon, but it is not guaranteed. If you are lucky, you can drink the water and use it to perform wudu for namaz.



King Fahd Complex for the Printing of the Holy Quran



On the way to the Fatah Mosque complex, we passed the King Fahd Glorious Qur'an Printing Complex. It opened in 1984 and has published translations of the Quran in forty languages. Every friend (dosti) visiting Medina can get a free copy of the Quran. You do not need an appointment; just join the line and follow the crowd.







As you follow the line, you first pass through a Quran display case showing the various holy books published by the printing complex. view all

Reposted from the web

Summary: This Muslim travel guide to Medina continues the sacred sites map, covering the King Fahd Quran Printing Complex, free Quran copies, camel pilaf, hotel dining, family travel, and practical notes near the Prophet Mosque.

Map of Sacred Sites in Medina is presented here as a firsthand travel account in clear English, beginning with this scene: Once you enter the workshop, you can see the printing process for the Quran, which is as impressive as a banknote factory. The account keeps its focus on Halal Travel, Yiwu Food, Mosque Travel while preserving the names, places, food, and historical details from the Chinese source.



Once you enter the workshop, you can see the printing process for the Quran, which is as impressive as a banknote factory.



After leaving the workshop, you can pick up a free copy of the Quran at the room by the entrance. The default is the original Arabic version, but if you ask, they will give you the language you want. We requested the Chinese-Arabic bilingual version translated by Ma Jian.



If you feel one copy is not enough, you can go to the shop at the entrance to buy other books.



These are the historical sites we visited in Medina. There are still some on my list that we didn't get to see because the area outside the north gate of the Prophet's Mosque is under expansion. Outside the east gate is the Baqi Cemetery, where about 10,000 companions of the Prophet and some of his family members are buried. These places look like yellow dirt construction sites from a distance and you cannot enter them. Many locations recorded in history no longer exist, and even the historical sites I photographed earlier were mostly rebuilt on their original locations, so you can no longer see traces left from ancient times.



Most of the time, we ate buffets at our hotel. At the strong suggestion of Dosti, we tried camel pilaf (zhua fan) in Medina once. The restaurant in the picture below is a fast-food chain that also has locations in Mecca.



This is a very traditional Arabic restaurant. The first floor is for individual diners and is covered with carpets; you spread a piece of paper on the carpet to eat. This type of restaurant does not allow female guests on the first floor, so families must go to the private rooms on the second floor. The restaurant pauses business during namaz time, and the staff will pull the curtains shut.



To be honest, this camel meat pilaf was very authentic. The texture of the camel meat is similar to beef and has no strange smell. The staff will provide spoons, as most locals now choose to eat with spoons instead of using their hands. Remember to perform wudu (minor ablution) after eating camel meat, as this was recorded in the Hadith.





For accommodation, it is best to stay somewhere close to the Prophet's Mosque that is within walking distance. Although it is expensive, it is very troublesome to travel back and forth every day if you are far away, and taxis are both expensive and inconvenient. We mostly chose to eat buffets at the hotel because there were seven of us, and it is hard to please everyone, so the buffet was a convenient choice. The buffet restaurant at the Sofitel Hotel is ranked number one for food in Medina on the TripAdvisor app because it offers a view of the Prophet's Mosque.



When dining at the hotel, you don't need to worry about family members being separated; everyone can sit wherever they like.

















In our small Umrah group, only our family of three was here for the first time; everyone else had been here many times. Our first impression of the people we met in Medina was not good, which is consistent with the feelings of other families who come here often. Even some of our friends who have lived in the holy land for many years have mostly negative things to say about the locals. I was mentally prepared for this bad impression before I came. I see this phenomenon as proof of the backwardness of the believers. Just imagine, if everyone behaved with the character of the Prophet, I would actually be confused. If you were all that excellent, how could you be in such a backward position in today's world? view all

Reposted from the web

After finishing the Umrah in Makkah, we took a train to Madinah and caught an Uber straight from the station to the Prophet's Mosque.

The Prophet's Mosque (al-Masjid an-Nabawī) is the mosque the Prophet built next to his home after arriving in Madinah in 622 AD. It is the second holiest site in the faith, right after the Sacred Mosque. The mosque has been expanded many times throughout history. The central core was built during the Ottoman era, while the surrounding areas were added by the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia after the 20th century.

The most important area of the mosque is called the Rawdah (Garden), which is where the Prophet used to pray. According to a Hadith, 'Between my house and my minbar (pulpit) is one of the gardens of Paradise,' which is why it is also known as the Garden of Paradise.

You need to book a slot on the Nusuk app to enter the Garden of Paradise, with separate times for men and women. My appointment was for 6:30 PM. After finishing the Maghrib prayer on the west side of the mosque, I walked a long way around to the east side to line up. After a while, those with a Nusuk booking were directed to wait on the carpets outside Gate 39. Staff handed out plastic bags for our shoes, and after waiting a bit longer, I finally entered the Garden of Paradise.









I first performed two rak'ahs of prayer inside the Garden of Paradise, then pushed through the crowd to see the layout. The minbar used by the Prophet was originally made of date palm wood, later changed to tamarisk, and had ebony steps added. The minbar you see today was rebuilt in 1590 by the Ottoman Sultan Murad III using marble. I also saw an imam resting to the right of the minbar. There are six pillars inside the Garden of Paradise that mark the spots where the Prophet used date palm trunks to support the original structure. Each pillar has a special meaning.













Inside the Garden of Paradise, there are two mihrabs (prayer niches). One was originally built by the Prophet, and the other was built by Caliph Uthman. A walkway separates the two mihrabs.









Next to the prayer area is the burial site of the Prophet and the first two caliphs, Abu Bakr and Umar. This was originally the home of the Prophet and his wife, Aisha, and the Prophet passed away here in 632 AD. After a fire at the Prophet's Mosque in 1481, the Egyptian Mamluk Sultan Qaitbay rebuilt the tomb from a wooden structure into a brick one and added metal railings. No one has entered the interior of the tomb in the more than 500 years since. Directly above the tomb is the Green Dome, built in 1817 by the Ottoman Sultan Mahmud II. It got its name after being painted green in 1837.

I did not stay in the Garden of Paradise (Rawdah) for long before security guided me to the east side of the tomb, known as the Mawajaha (sacred meeting point). Here, you can offer salaam to the Prophet and the two Caliphs through three circular holes. Between the circular holes is the closed Gate of Aisha, which features a silver plaque added by the Ottoman Sultan Ahmed I in 1617.

I wanted to pray two rak'ahs in the Garden of Paradise, but because of the crowds and entry limits, I had to follow security out of the mosque. I regret not seeing the imam lead the prayer in person.









This time in Medina, I stayed at the MIAS HOTEL on the west side of the mosque, so I usually entered through the gates on the west side for prayers. After the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia was established in 1932, the mosque underwent three major expansions: the first from 1951 to 1956, the second from 1985 to 1994, and the third from 2012 to the present. The expanded sections surround the Ottoman-era core from the east, north, and west. They use reinforced concrete, marble, granite, and artificial stone, making them taller and more spacious than the Ottoman area. In 2010, German Muslim architect Mahmoud Bodo Rasch added retractable umbrella-like canopies around the mosque. They open between the Fajr and Maghrib prayers and can spray a cooling mist.

























I prayed Maghrib at the mosque, but it was so crowded that the core area was full and closed off half an hour before the adhan. I barely found a spot in a small courtyard on the north side of the core area. The sunshades were open there during the day, so I was not in the sun. From here, you can clearly see the difference between the Ottoman core and the Saudi expansion. The Ottoman area is lower with painted domes on top, while the Saudi area is taller with a flat roof.











I was very grateful to receive water, dates, and yogurt handed out in the mosque. You can really find dates everywhere here.









On the square on the west side of the mosque is the site of the famous Saqifa event. After the Prophet passed away in 632 AD, some of his companions gathered at the Saqifa (a covered meeting place) of the Bani Sa'idah tribe. They pledged allegiance to Abu Bakr, making him the successor to the Prophet and the first Caliph.

There is almost no record of the later history of the Saqifa, only that a man named Ali Pasha built a structure there during the Ottoman period in 1620. In the 20th century, this was a park, but by the time I visited, the park had been demolished and reconstruction work was underway.







Banda later went to the Al-Baqi cemetery on the east side of the Prophet's Mosque to visit the graves of the Prophet's family and friends. When the Prophet arrived in Medina in 622 AD, this land was covered in Arabian boxthorn (gharqad). The Prophet led everyone to clear the thorns and opened this place as a Muslim cemetery.

The Prophet's family members buried in the cemetery include his wet nurse, most of his wives, his cousin, his children, his uncle, and the wife and descendants of Caliph Ali. Because four Shia Imams are buried here, it has become a famous holy site for Shia Muslims.

Historically, the Al-Baqi cemetery had many domed structures (gongbei), but they were demolished twice by the Wahhabis in 1806 and 1926. Because the Wahhabis consider marking graves to be heresy, even the tombstones with writing on them in the cemetery were completely destroyed. The demolition of Al-Baqi cemetery drew criticism and protests from both Sunni and Shia Muslims. Many Shia Muslims consider the day of the demolition, the 11th of Shawwal in 1926, a 'Day of Sorrow' and hold memorial events every year. To this day, the Saudi authorities ignore all criticism and have blocked many paths in the cemetery, making it difficult for people to visit the graves.







The area with the blue boards in the distance is the grave of Caliph Uthman, and the path leading to it has been blocked. On June 17, 656 AD, Caliph Uthman was assassinated by rebels in his home. Because the rebels would not allow Uthman to be buried in Al-Baqi cemetery, he had to be buried in the Jewish cemetery right next to it on the north side. Decades later, the rulers of the Umayyad Caliphate tore down the walls between the two cemeteries and included Uthman's grave within Al-Baqi cemetery.



In the distance are the graves of the Prophet's wet nurse Halima, and two companions of the Prophet born in Medina, Sa'd ibn Mu'adh and Saʽid al-Khudri, which are also impossible to approach. Sa'd was the leader of the Banu Aws tribe. He was seriously wounded in the Battle of the Trench in 627 and passed away shortly after returning to Medina. Sa'd was a noble companion recognized for his close relationship with the Prophet, and the Prophet continued to praise him after he passed away.

Abu Sa'id al-Khudri lived his whole life in Medina and reportedly fought in the Battle of al-Harra in 683, where the people of Medina stood against the Umayyad Caliphate. Abu Sa'id narrated 1,170 hadiths, making him the seventh most prolific narrator among the companions of the Prophet.



The tomb of the Martyrs of al-Harra. The people of Medina opposed the hereditary rule and policies of the Umayyad Caliphate, so they started a war on August 26, 683. They were quickly defeated, and the Umayyad army looted the city of Medina.





The grave of Ibrahim ibn Muhammad, the young son of the Prophet. Ibrahim died of illness at only two years old, and the Prophet was deeply saddened. The Prophet led Ibrahim's funeral prayer and buried him in the Baqi cemetery. He filled the grave with sand, sprinkled some water on it, and placed a marker.





The graves of the 8th-century jurist Malik ibn Anas (711-795) and the Quran reciter Nafiʽ al-Madani (689-785). Imam Malik founded the Maliki school, one of the four major Sunni schools of Islamic law. The Maliki school places great importance on hadiths and is currently found mostly in North Africa, outside of Egypt. After Malik passed away in Medina in 795, the Abbasid governor of Mecca led his funeral prayer.

Nafiʽ al-Madani was originally from Isfahan, but he was born and passed away in Medina. His method of reciting the Quran is the most common style used in North and West Africa today.



The two nearby graves belong to the Prophet's cousin Aqil ibn Abi Talib and his nephew Abd Allah ibn Ja'far. Aqil was the older brother of Caliph Ali. He fought against the Prophet in the early days but converted to Islam a few years before the Prophet passed away, and he appears in many hadiths.

Abd Allah settled in Medina with his family in 628, and the Prophet once said that his appearance and character were similar to his own. Abdullah Allah was one of the wealthiest men in Medina at the time and a famous philanthropist.

In the distance are the graves of several of the Prophet's wives, including Sawda, Aisha, Hafsa, Zaynab, Umm Salama, Safiyya, Umm Habiba, and Maria. Security guards watch over the graves of the Prophet's wives and do not allow anyone to get close or linger.



Behind the iron fence in the distance are the graves of several of the Prophet's daughters, and further away are the graves of his daughter Fatima (though this is disputed), his uncle Abbas, and four Shia imams: Hasan, Ali Zayn al-Abidin, Muhammad al-Baqir, and Jafar al-Sadiq. A tall dome (gongbei) once stood over the graves of the four Shia imams, serving as the most prominent landmark in the entire Baqi cemetery, but it was destroyed by the Wahhabis twice, in 1806 and 1926.



Al-Ghamama Mosque is located southwest of the Prophet's Mosque, on the site where the Prophet led the Eid al-Fitr prayer in 631. Ghamama means cloud. People say the Prophet once performed a prayer for rain here, and then clouds covered the entire city. Al-Ghamama Mosque was first built during the reign of the eighth Umayyad Caliph, Umar ibn Abd al-Aziz (reigned 717-720). It was renovated in 1340 and 1622, and in 1859, Ottoman Sultan Abdulmejid I (reigned 1839-1861) rebuilt it into the black volcanic basalt structure seen today. It is currently one of the very few mosques in Medina that retains its Ottoman-era appearance.













Abu Bakr As-Siddiq Mosque is located next to Al-Ghamama Mosque, also on the site where the Prophet led the Eid al-Fitr prayer in 631. It is named after Caliph Abu Bakr, who continued to lead the Eid al-Fitr prayer there. The current mosque was built in 1838 as a black volcanic basalt structure by order of Ottoman Sultan Mahmud II (reigned 1808-1839), and the Sultan's tughra (calligraphic emblem) is still at the entrance. Because it is small and very close to the Prophet's Mosque, Friday prayers (Jumu'ah) are not held here.













The Medina Hejaz Railway Station was built in 1908 and is an important historical site of the Hejaz Railway constructed by the Ottoman Empire. For thousands of years, the Hejaz region, where Mecca and Medina are located, relied on camel caravans for transport, which had a high mortality rate when crossing difficult mountainous terrain. After the 1860s, a railway construction boom began, and the Ottoman Empire started studying a rail line to connect Damascus with the two holy cities. This line was not only meant to make the Hajj pilgrimage more convenient but also held significant strategic importance. In 1900, the Ziraat Bankasi (Ottoman Agricultural Bank) provided the first loan of 100,000 liras, and construction of the Hejaz Railway officially began.

The construction of the Hejaz Railway faced many difficulties, including labor and resource issues while passing through uninhabited areas, bridge construction in desert terrain, and attacks by Arab tribes along the route. Fearing that the railway construction would ruin their livelihood based on pack animal transport, local Arab tribes organized in 1907 to threaten a work stoppage. The Ottoman Sultan eventually decided to end the railway at Medina. Under the supervision of chief engineer Mouktar Bey, the Hejaz Railway officially reached Medina on September 1, 1908, covering a total length of 1,300 kilometers.

However, less than 10 years after it began operating, the Ottoman Empire collapsed during World War I. The Hejaz Railway was officially abandoned in 1920 due to a lack of maintenance. People say the wreckage of trains destroyed during the Arab Revolt of 1916-1918 still rests where they fell a century ago.

In 2005, Saudi Arabia restored the tracks and sheds of the Medina station of the Hejaz Railway, and in 2006, it opened as the Hejaz Railway Museum. However, it is now closed again, and you can only view the exterior of the Medina station.









Near the Medina station of the Hejaz Railway are two black volcanic basalt mosques from the Ottoman period. Enclosed within the train station and inaccessible is the As-Saqiya Mosque. It is located where the Prophet inspected his troops before participating in the Battle of Badr in 624. It is said to be the place where the eighth chapter, seventh verse of the Quran was revealed, which is also the first chapter of the Quran revealed in Medina.





The Anbariya Mosque is a mosque built in 1908 by Ottoman Sultan Abdul Hamid II (reigned 1876-1909) for the Medina station of the Hejaz Railway. The architectural style follows the traditional Ottoman design, but it uses local hard basalt stone. There is no pulpit (minbar) in the main hall because Friday prayers (Jumu'ah) are not held here.















Quba Mosque is located in the southern suburbs of Medina. It was built by the Prophet after he migrated from Mecca to Medina in 622 and is the first mosque in the history of the faith. The Prophet often went to Quba Mosque to perform namaz during his lifetime, which is frequently mentioned in the Hadith. Sahl ibn Hunayf narrated that the Prophet said: 'Whoever leaves his house and comes to Quba Mosque and performs prayer in it, it is equal to performing an Umrah.' This makes it a place that Muslims from all over the world visit when they come to Medina.

Quba Mosque was originally just a circle of walls. It was expanded several times and rebuilt into its current structure in 1986. Today, Quba Mosque is surrounded by date palm orchards. Beside the mosque, there are people offering dates and black tea (hongcha) as a gesture of hospitality (dawa), and you can drink Zamzam water inside the mosque. It is a great place to rest while following the footsteps of the noble Prophet.



















Musabbih Mosque is located southwest of Quba Mosque, and you have to cross a dusty parking lot to reach it. Legend says the Prophet Muhammad prayed namaz here when he first migrated to Medina in 622 AD. The old mosque still keeps its black volcanic basalt walls and contains the remains of a mihrab. The small courtyard is quiet, filled with blooming flowers and a friend (dosti) cleaning the area, which contrasts sharply with the crowded Quba Mosque nearby.













North of Medina is the site of the Battle of Uhud, fought in 624 between the Muslim army led by the Prophet and the Quraish tribe alliance from Mecca. The Muslim army suffered heavy losses, but the Meccans failed to capture Medina.

At the center of the Uhud battlefield is a small hill. Muslim archers stationed there left their posts to collect war spoils, which turned the tide of the battle and led to the Muslim army being surrounded.







On the north side of the hill is the cemetery for the martyrs of the Battle of Uhud, which is now blocked off by wire mesh and fences. The cemetery holds many of the Prophet's companions and relatives, most importantly his uncle Hamza ibn Abd al-Muttalib. The Prophet once said, 'My best brother is Ali, and my best uncle is Hamza. May Allah be pleased with them.' Buried next to Hamza is the Prophet's cousin, Abd Allah ibn Jahsh.





On the east side of the cemetery stands the Sayyid al-Shuhada Mosque, built in 2017 and named after the title the Prophet gave to Hamza.





On the west side of the cemetery is a shed where water and bread are given out as charity, and you can rest there.





The Battle of the Trench was a conflict in 627 AD where the Muslim army led by the Prophet defended the northwest of Medina against an alliance of the Quraish and Bedouin tribes. The Prophet followed the advice of Salman the Persian to dig a trench, which eventually helped them defeat the enemy. This event is recorded in detail in the Quran and Sunnah.

Historically, seven mosques were built on the battlefield of the Trench. Five remain today, all built during the reign of the Umayyad Caliph Umar II (who ruled from 717 to 720) and renovated at different times.

The mosque on the northern hillside is called Al-Fath Mosque, and 'Fath' means 'conquest'. This is said to be the place where the Prophet performed namaz during the Battle of the Trench.









South of the Al-Fath Mosque is the Salman Al-Farsi Mosque, named after the Prophet's companion, Salman the Persian. Salman was originally a Zoroastrian from the Sassanid Empire. He later traveled through the Middle East with a Nestorian group and converted to Islam after meeting the Prophet in Medina. He used the military skills he learned in the Sassanid Empire to dig the trench, which helped the Prophet win the Battle of the Trench.

After the Prophet passed away, Salman took part in the Arab Empire's conquest of the Sassanid Empire and became the first governor of Ctesiphon, the Sassanid capital. He was also the first person to translate the Quran into a foreign language, which was Persian. Salman holds a high status among both Shia and Sufi Muslims. He is honored as the most noble of the four great companions of the Prophet in Shia tradition, and he is even respected in the Druze and Baháʼí faiths.











South of the Salman Al-Farsi Mosque is the Abu Bakr Al-Siddiq Mosque, named after Caliph Abu Bakr. In recent years, Saudi Arabia rebuilt this site into a large mosque with a washroom and a courtyard, and the main hall provides bottled ice water.







South of the Abu Bakr Al-Siddiq Mosque is the Umar bin Khattab Mosque, named after Caliph Umar.





South of the Umar bin Khattab Mosque is the Ali bin Abu Talib Mosque. It sits on a hillside in the south and is named after Caliph Ali, who is said to have joined the Battle of the Trench here.





West of the Ali bin Abu Talib Mosque is the Fatimah Az-Zahra Mosque, named after the Prophet's daughter Fatimah. It is a small mosque attached to the other mosques. This mosque was built during the reign of Ottoman Sultan Abdulmejid I (who ruled from 1839 to 1861), and today only the foundation walls remain. view all

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I was busy doing my religious studies and visiting the sites of the Prophet in Medina, so I didn't look for many restaurants and mostly ate fast food. This is a street food stall west of the Prophet's Mosque. I bought chickpea fritters (falafel) and meat wraps (shawarma), which are classic Middle Eastern fast foods. Middle Eastern falafel comes in two types. The Egyptian version is made from fried fava beans, while those in the Levant are mostly made from fried chickpeas. In places like Lebanon and Syria, they sometimes use both fava beans and chickpeas. Sometimes falafel is green inside because parsley and green onions were added during the grinding process.













Also, there are many people selling dates on the streets of Medina. This was my first time eating fresh Medina dates. The bright red ones are a bit astringent. They taste best after they sit and turn a darker color with wrinkled skin, which makes them taste just like honey.







I had breakfast at the Mias Hotel on the west side of the Prophet's Mosque, and it was very crowded after the dawn prayer (fajr). Breakfast in Saudi Arabia mainly features flatbread (pita) served with various dishes. A special one is fava bean stew (ful medames), a dish dating back to ancient Egypt. It is made with olive oil and cumin, and served with side dishes like parsley, garlic, onions, lemon juice, and chili peppers that you can add yourself.













Dar Al-Madina Museum

Located in the eastern suburbs of Medina, the Dar Al-Madina Museum displays the historical changes of the two holy cities and houses many artifacts from Medina's past. The staff inside the museum will pour you some Arabic coffee.







There is a huge sand table in the museum showing what Medina looked like 100 years ago. The historical districts of Medina have now completely disappeared.







The museum houses a ceremonial palanquin (mahmal) that the Ottoman Empire sent to Mecca during the month of Hajj in 1789. The mahmal was carried by a camel and featured intricate embroidery, including Quranic verses and the Sultan's monogram. Behind the mahmal was a grand Hajj procession, which included the Kaaba cover (kiswa) guarded by heavily armed soldiers.







Models of the Prophet's Mosque (Al-Masjid an-Nabawi) from different periods.

When the Prophet first built the mosque in 623, it had a roof made of palm leaves supported by palm trunks, and it faced north toward Jerusalem.



In 624, the Prophet received a revelation to change the direction of prayer to face the Kaaba, so the mosque was rebuilt to face south.



After the Battle of Khaybar in 628, the Prophet expanded the mosque, but its design stayed the same.



The era of Caliph Umar in 638. To expand the mosque, Caliph Umar tore down several houses around it, including the homes of the Prophet's wives. During this time, the mosque had walls made of sun-dried mud bricks and a floor covered with pebbles.



The era of Caliph Uthman from 649 to 650. Uthman spent 10 months rebuilding the mosque, using stone and mortar for the walls, replacing palm trunks with stone pillars, and using teak wood for the ceiling.



The era of the Umayyad Caliph Al-Walid I from 707 to 710. Al-Walid I ordered a massive three-year reconstruction of the mosque, sourcing materials from the Byzantine Empire and hiring Greek and Coptic Christian craftsmen. The expanded mosque enclosed the graves of the Prophet, Caliph Abu Bakr, and Umar, changed from a rectangle to a trapezoid, and added porticos and four minarets.



During the era of the Abbasid Caliph Al-Mahdi from 779 to 782, the mosque was expanded 50 meters to the north.



The era of Sultan Qaitbay of the Mamluk Sultanate in 1481. A fire broke out in the mosque that year, so the Sultan rebuilt the Prophet's tomb from a wooden structure into a brick one and built a dome over it. No one has entered the interior of the Prophet's tomb in the 500 years since.



This was during the reign of Sultan Abdulmejid I of the Ottoman Empire from 1848 to 1860. The Sultan spent 12 years rebuilding the mosque. He used red bricks for everything except the core area of the Garden of Paradise (Rawdah), and carved verses from the Quran into the walls. He added a religious school (madrasa) and a water room on the north side of the mosque. He also doubled the width of the main hall on the south side and covered it with small domes. The courtyard was paved with marble and red stone, and a fifth minaret was built on the west side.



Artifacts from Medina housed in the Dar Al-Madina Museum.

Floor tiles from a palace built in the 8th century by Hisham ibn Isma'il al-Makhzumi, the governor of Medina, in the Valley of the Blessed (Wadi al-Aqeeq) west of the city. This palace was restored in recent years, but it does not seem to be open to the public yet.





The key and lock for the golden door of the Kaaba from the reign of King Khalid of Saudi Arabia (1975-1982).



Cooking utensils and furniture once used by the people of Medina.













Praying at the mosque near the airport entrance before leaving Medina.











The Burger King inside Medina Airport. The taste is not as good as the one at Istanbul Airport, but the price is reasonable.







The prayer room at the boarding gate of Medina Airport. Because there were so many people for the evening prayer (Isha), one group (jama'ah) would finish and another would immediately take their place. view all