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Walk down from Taksim Square to the Bosphorus shore, then head 500 meters upstream along the coast to find the Dolmabahçe Mosque (Dolmabahçe Camii). It was built between 1853 and 1855 by Ottoman Sultan Abdulmejid I (reigned 1839-61) and his mother, Bezmiâlem Sultan. After it was finished, the Dolmabahçe Mosque became the royal mosque for the Ottoman Sultans. Every Friday, the Sultan would come here to attend Jumu'ah prayers.

The Dolmabahçe Mosque was designed by Garabet Amira Balyan, a member of the Ottoman Armenian Balyan family of architects. He built many structures in Istanbul, the most famous being the nearby Dolmabahçe Palace. The Dolmabahçe Mosque blends Rococo and Empire styles. It is a prime example of the eclectic architecture that emerged in the mid-19th century after Ottoman modernization reforms brought European influences.

The original dome of the Dolmabahçe Mosque sits directly on rectangular walls. To support the weight, a tower was built at each of the four corners, which is completely different from the methods used in classical Ottoman architecture. The walls feature huge arches and windows that let plenty of light into the interior. The two minarets mimic ancient Greek Corinthian columns, both showing the influence of the Empire style. The Empire style is a type of Neoclassical style created by Napoleon to imitate ancient Greek and Roman civilizations. The Empire style strictly follows the architectural proportions, color schemes, and decorations of the ancient Roman era. It favors straight lines and geometric designs, using structural proportions to show the beauty of the building.







The decorative details of the Dolmabahçe Mosque are mainly influenced by the Rococo style of the late Baroque period. The use of gold and oil paintings creates a highly dramatic effect, while the overall color tone remains very soft.













Keep walking from the Dolmabahçe Mosque to reach the Dolmabahçe Clock Tower (Dolmabahçe Saat Kulesi), built between 1890 and 1895 by Ottoman Sultan Abdul Hamid II (reigned 1876-1909). The architect was Sarkis Balyan, a member of the Ottoman Armenian Balyan family and the second son of the mosque's architect, Garabet Balyan.

The clock tower was built in the Ottoman Baroque Revival style. Baroque Revival, also called Neo-Baroque, was born in late 19th-century France and became popular across Europe and America by the end of the century. The clock on the tower was made by French master clockmaker Jean-Paul Garnier and installed by the Ottoman court clockmaker Johann Mayer. However, the original mechanical clock was replaced by the current electronic clock in 1979.



Continue walking forward to reach the Dolmabahçe Palace (Dolmabahçe Sarayı). Since its completion in 1856, this place served as the royal palace for six Ottoman Sultans. It was also the summer presidential residence and the final home of Turkey's first president, Kemal. Dolmabahçe Palace has quite a lot of tourists, and the ticket price for foreigners is not cheap, but it is truly worth a visit. Although it does not look that grand from the outside, the interior is truly magnificent, and the visual impact of the main hall is no less than that of the Hagia Sophia. The interior route is designed so you see all the rooms in one path, and the whole process takes a long time, requiring as much physical energy as walking through the Forbidden City in Beijing. It is a pity that photography is not allowed inside, so I will just post photos of the outside.

Dolmabahçe Palace was built by Ottoman Sultan Abdulmejid I (reigned 1839-61) between 1843 and 1856. The architects were Garabet Balyan, his son Nigoğayos Balyan, and Evanis Kalfa from the Ottoman Armenian Balyan architectural family. The building is in an eclectic style, incorporating Baroque, Rococo, Neoclassical, and traditional Ottoman architectural elements, reflecting the growing European influence during the Ottoman modernization reforms in the mid-19th century.

Unlike the exquisite Iznik tiles of the old Topkapi Palace, the new palace uses a large amount of gold and crystal for decoration. The ceiling gilding alone used 14 tons of gold, and the main hall hangs the world's largest Bohemian crystal chandelier, sold to the Sultan by Queen Victoria of the United Kingdom, as well as the world's largest Hereke carpet.



















Looking at the Bosphorus Strait from Dolmabahçe Palace. This place was originally an anchorage for the Ottoman fleet, became a royal garden for the Ottoman Sultans in the early 18th century, and eventually formed the Beşiktaş waterfront palace complex.











I was already very tired after leaving Dolmabahçe Palace, so I took the funicular subway back to Taksim Square to eat at the famous old Ottoman restaurant Hacı Abdullah Lokantası. This restaurant was founded by Hacı Abdullah Efendi in 1888, and the business license was personally issued by Ottoman Sultan Abdul Hamid II. It is the first officially registered restaurant in Turkey, and many high-ranking officials and politicians have visited it.

In 1943, because none of Hacı Abdullah's descendants wanted to run the restaurant, a long-time employee, Hacı Salih Efendi, took over and continued to operate it. After Hacı Salih passed away in 1982, a regular customer named Ferit İntiba took over the restaurant. Because Ferit İntiba wanted to sell alcohol in the restaurant, head chef Abdullah Korun led his team to leave. Later, the restaurant was poorly managed, Ferit İntiba was forced to leave, and head chef Abdullah Korun led his team back to continue making traditional Ottoman and Turkish cuisine.

For over a hundred years, Hacı Abdullah Lokantası has insisted on making Ottoman palace dishes and Anatolian home-style dishes. Depending on the season, they can offer up to 6,000 types of dishes, including stews, grilled meats, salads, desserts, various candied fruits, and soups. Their stews are slow-cooked in copper pots and taste very fragrant.

We ordered spinach yogurt (Yoğurtlu Ispanak), beef stew (Tas kebabı), roasted chicken (Tavuk Firin), meat broth (Çorba), white pilaf (Şehriyeli Pilav), and

black pilaf (İç Pilav). Everything tasted wonderful. It was easily the best meal we had in Turkey. The seasoning was perfect—not too salty or greasy—and the flavors really soaked into the food. We heard the chefs here have 25 to 30 years of experience. You can really tell the food is made by masters.

In Turkish eateries (Lokantası), you often see two types of pilaf. The black pilaf is made with black currants, while the white pilaf uses a rice-shaped pasta called orzo (Arpa şehriye), which is made by shaping coarse flour into grains that look like rice. I think both types of pilaf go great with stewed meat.



















Finally, I want to recommend a century-old chocolate brand we bought on Istiklal Avenue called Elit, which is as old as the Republic of Turkey. On September 1, 1923, Todori Efendi, who ran a chocolate factory near the Beyoğlu Fish Market in Istanbul, registered the brand Ménage with the Turkish Ministry of Commerce. This was over a month before the Republic of Turkey was officially declared on October 29, 1923, making it the first chocolate trademark in Turkey. In 1924, Todori Efendi went on to register the Elite chocolate brand. By the 1930s, Elite had become a famous Turkish chocolate brand, known for its advertising cards featuring beauty queens and Hollywood stars. To make it easier to spell, the brand was re-registered as Elit in the late 1930s, which is its current name. view all

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We flew from Almaty to Istanbul New Airport in the evening, took a one-hour airport bus to Taksim Square, and walked five minutes to reach Istiklal Avenue, the busiest street in Istanbul. At 11 p.m., Istiklal Avenue was buzzing with people, so we went straight into late-night snack mode. Istiklal Avenue is lined with various architectural styles from the late Ottoman period, between the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Since the 19th century, it has been a hub for Ottoman intellectuals and Europeans, earning it the nickname 'Paris of the East'.







There are several rotating meat kebab (döner kebap) shops at the intersections of Istiklal Avenue, and they were all doing great business. We grabbed some kebab to satisfy our cravings and then bought some corn. A common belief is that the Turkish rotating kebab was invented in the mid-19th century during the Ottoman era by the İskender Efendi family in Bursa. It didn't become popular in Istanbul until a century later, and was eventually brought to the rest of the world by Turkish immigrants in the late 20th century.













We had the 'Sultan's Tray' (Sultan Tabağı) baklava dessert paired with Turkish black tea at the famous old Ottoman dessert shop, Hafiz Mustafa 1864. This branch on Istiklal Avenue is very lively. I bought several boxes of their desserts to take home as gifts during my last visit to Istanbul.

Hafiz Mustafa was founded in the old city of Istanbul in 1864 by Hadji İsmail Hakkı Bey and later taken over by his son, Hafiz Mustafa. It has been around for 159 years now. They started by producing traditional rock sugar, then expanded to various Turkish sweets including Turkish delight (lokum), flaky pastry (baklava), and pudding. They now have over a dozen branches and are very famous in Turkey.

Baklava originated in the imperial kitchens of Topkapi Palace during the Ottoman Empire. Every year on the 15th day of Ramadan, the Sultan would gift trays of baklava to the Janissaries, which is why the dessert we ordered is named 'Sultan's Tray' (Sultan Tabağı).

















We turned into a small alley on the north side of Istiklal Avenue, which was packed with seafood restaurants. Istanbul has many such shops near the coast. We picked one and had pan-fried horse mackerel (istavrit) with yogurt drink (ayran). The fish was fried well, the bones were soft, and it tasted great with lemon and onions.













We had breakfast on the hotel rooftop in the morning. The view was excellent, looking across the Golden Horn toward the old city of Istanbul.

We specifically chose to stay near Taksim Square this time for easy access to the airport bus. Because it is near the pedestrian street, the rooms here are generally a bit small and can be noisy at night, but luckily it was quiet for us.















After breakfast, we took the airport bus to head to Lebanon. The architecture around Taksim Square really feels very European. I passed by the place where I ate rotisserie meat (xuanzhuan kaorou) last night and caught the chef using chains to hang the meat onto the oven piece by piece. view all

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Summary: Istanbul is shaped by Ottoman mosques, layered Muslim history, and everyday street life across both sides of the city. This first part begins the return visit through the citys religious sites, streets, food, and historical details while keeping the original photos.

In 2018, I visited Istanbul for the first time. I toured nearly 100 historical buildings, including dozens of works by the great Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan, and gained a great deal. In the summer of 2023, I visited Istanbul for the second time. My itinerary was quite relaxed, mainly to see some places I didn't have time to visit last time.

Lunch in Kadıköy.

The plane landed at the Asian side airport in Istanbul. We took the subway for about 50 minutes to reach the terminal station, Kadıköy, where we chose to stay for this trip. Kadıköy has a very long history. In 667 BC, the Greeks established the first settlement on the Bosphorus here, a few years earlier than Byzantium on the opposite shore. In 1353, it came under the rule of the Ottoman dynasty, a full 100 years before the Ottoman conquest of Constantinople in 1453. Under Ottoman rule, this was a transportation hub for crossing the Bosphorus, so it gradually developed into a bustling town.

Today, it is a leisure spot where young people gather. There are several commercial pedestrian streets filled with cafes, restaurants, shops, craft stores, and bookstores. Although it lacks a vibrant nightlife and dense tourist attractions, life here is more comfortable and laid-back.





After dropping off our luggage, we first went to eat at the street-side Destan Halk Lokantası. A Turkish eatery (lokantası) is similar to a cafeteria back home. Various stews, salads, and desserts are prepared and displayed together, so you just point at what you want to eat, which is very convenient for tourists.

We ordered the Turkish specialty blackcurrant rice pilaf (iç pilav). This pilaf is made with olive oil, onions, crushed mint, cinnamon powder, and various other ingredients. You can also eat the traditional Ottoman Noah's pudding (ashure) here. It commemorates the day the Ark of Prophet Nuh (Noah) landed, when the Prophet and his followers gathered seeds of various foods to make the first meal after the Great Flood receded.















We had honey yogurt at the famous honey shop Etabal Arı Ürünleri in Kadıköy, then took a boat to the Eminönü pier in the old city on the European side. You can just swipe your transit card, which is very convenient.













Snacks near the Spice Bazaar.

Right across from the Eminönü pier is the Spice Bazaar (Mısır Çarşısı), which is the second-largest Ottoman market in the old city after the Grand Bazaar. The Egyptian Market was built in 1660 and got its name because the construction funds came from the revenue of the Ottoman province of Egypt. I took Zaynab next to the Egyptian Market to experience Istanbul's most classic street food, including sandwiches from a sesame ring bread (simit) cart, roasted chestnuts, and mixed fruit juice. Zaynab especially liked these authentic roasted chestnuts.



















Rüstem Paşa Mosque: 1561-63

Not far to the west of the Egyptian Market is the Rüstem Paşa Mosque (Rüstem Paşa Camii), known as the most beautiful mosque by Mimar Sinan. When I visited last time, it was undergoing a three-year restoration that finished in 2021, so I was finally able to visit it this time.

The Rüstem Paşa Mosque was built between 1561 and 1563 by the great Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan for the Ottoman Grand Vizier Rüstem Paşa. This was the last building commissioned by Rüstem Paşa, and it was only completed after his death.

The mosque is built on a high platform with arched shops on the lower level. The ablution area is next to the platform, and you must climb a narrow staircase to reach the courtyard on top, making the building stand out clearly on the skyline of Istanbul's old city.



















Most of Sinan's works are known for their rigorous architectural structure, but the Rüstem Paşa Mosque is famous for its exquisite interior Iznik tiles. About 2,300 Iznik tiles with 80 different floral and geometric patterns cover the outer walls of the main hall's porch, the interior walls, the prayer niche (mihrab), and the pulpit (minbar). It is said there are 41 types of tulip patterns alone. In the more than twenty years that followed, Sinan never again used such a large number of Iznik tiles to decorate a mosque.

People say these tiles were ordered by Rüstem Paşa himself to support Kara Memi, the chief painter of the Ottoman court at the time. Kara Memi created a new naturalistic style, and his floral works were widely used on crafts like tiles and carpets, leaving a profound influence on Ottoman art.





































Elhac Timurtaş Mosque: 1460s

Not far west of the Rüstem Paşa Mosque, on a street corner, stands the Elhac Timurtaş Mosque. This small, unassuming mosque is actually one of the oldest in Istanbul. It was built in the 1460s by Timurtaş Ağa, who was a merchant there, and the architect was Mahsenci Hacı Ahmet Ağa. The Elhac Timurtaş Mosque has been rebuilt many times throughout history, so it is hard to see its original form today. The mosque was occupied between 1938 and 1964, restored in 1965 at the suggestion of local merchants, and renovated again in 1990 to its current appearance.



















Siyavuş Pasha Madrasa (Museum of the Holy Relics and Prayer Beads): 1591.

Continue walking west, cross the road, and you will find the Siyavuş Pasha Madrasa, which is now open as the Museum of the Holy Relics and Prayer Beads (Hilye-i Şerif ve Tesbih Müzesi). The madrasa was built in 1591 by Siyavuş Pasha, the Grand Vizier to the Ottoman Sultan Murad III, and was likely overseen by Davut Aga, the chief Ottoman architect who succeeded Mimar Sinan. The madrasa has a very precise design and uses high-quality materials. It consists of 15 dormitory rooms and one large classroom, arranged in an irregular geometric pattern along the hillside.







The Holy Relics (Hilye-i Şerif) are written descriptions of the appearance of the Prophet Muhammad and his followers, which became a mature form of Ottoman calligraphy after the 17th century. People write the Holy Relics in beautiful Naskh Arabic calligraphy, frame them, and hang them in their homes, where everyone who passes by offers a blessing.













The term tasbih originally refers to the phrase Subhan Allah, meaning 'Glory be to Allah'. According to the Hadith, the Prophet Muhammad taught his daughter Fatima a way to perform dhikr: saying tasbih 33 times, 'All praise is due to Allah' 33 times, and 'Allah is the Greatest' 33 or 34 times. This method of remembrance is known as Fatima's Tasbih. After the 16th century, the Ottoman dynasty began making counting beads for tasbih out of materials like pearl, amber, hardwood, and bone, and tasbih beads developed into a distinct craft. During the 17th and 18th centuries, the Anatolian region, centered in Istanbul, had the most advanced tasbih bead craftsmanship in the Islamic world, and many Muslims traveling to Istanbul would come here to buy them.

The following beads are made from ivory, amber, ivory nut, and Brazilian palm nut, respectively.



















Süleymaniye Mosque.

Continue west to the Süleymaniye Mosque to show Zaynab the great architectural works of Mimar Sinan and visit the tombs of Suleiman the Magnificent and Hurrem Sultan. Unfortunately, the two tombs were closed on Monday, but you can still see the beautiful Iznik tiles on the outside.

In 1566, Suleiman the Magnificent passed away at the age of 71 while on his way from Istanbul to lead a military campaign in Hungary. His heart, liver, and some other organs were buried on the spot in Hungary, while his body (mayyit) was transported back to Istanbul for burial. Besides Suleiman the Magnificent himself, his tomb also holds two other sultans, Suleiman II (reigned 1687-91) and Ahmed II (reigned 1691-95), while the tomb of Hurrem Sultan was built in 1558, the year she passed away.

















Revisiting the Suleymaniye Mosque after five years, I am still stunned by this architectural masterpiece by Mimar Sinan. When I was thinking of a name for my son, the Suleymaniye Mosque came to mind first, so I blurted out that I wanted to name him Suleiman. When Suleiman gets a little older, I must bring him to see this place.















Bayezid II Mosque: 1501-06.

From the Suleymaniye Mosque, head south through Istanbul University to reach the Bayezid II Mosque next to the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul. This place underwent an eight-year renovation starting in 2012 and only reopened in 2020, so I could not enter when I came in 2018.

The Bayezid II Mosque was built between 1501 and 1506 by the eighth Ottoman Sultan, Bayezid II (reigned 1481-1512), and it is the second imperial mosque built after the Ottoman conquest of Istanbul. Because the Fatih Mosque built by Mehmed the Conqueror was destroyed by earthquakes many times, the Bayezid II Mosque is the oldest surviving imperial mosque in Istanbul.

It is speculated that the most likely architect of the Bayezid II Mosque was Yakubşah ibn Islamşah. People only know that Yakubşah once built a caravanserai in Bursa, and little else is known about him, but the polishing technique of the mosque shows that early Ottoman architecture was influenced by contemporary Western architecture. It is also certain that the great Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan carried out repairs here between 1573 and 1574.

The main hall of the Bayezid II Mosque is square, with the main dome supported by two semi-domes and two arches; the interior was built in imitation of the Hagia Sophia, but it is relatively smaller.



















The mihrab (prayer niche) and minbar (pulpit) of the Bayezid II Mosque. To the right of the mihrab is a Hünkâr Mahfili, a platform for the sultan, the royal family, and nobles to pray, and the marble columns on it date back to the Byzantine period.



















In the backyard of the Bayezid II Mosque is the tomb of Sultan Bayezid II himself. Bayezid II served as a bey in Amasya during his early years and took part in wars against the Aq Qoyunlu dynasty. After Mehmed the Conqueror passed away in 1481, Bayezid II fought a war of succession against his brother, Cem Sultan, and eventually defeated him to win the throne.

Bayezid II earned the title of 'the Just' because he successfully kept the domestic situation stable. He fought against Europe many times, defeating a powerful Polish army of 80,000 in 1497 and taking control of the entire Peloponnese peninsula in southern Greece in 1501.

In 1492, Spain announced the expulsion of all Jews and Muslims from its territory. Bayezid II sent the Ottoman navy to Spain to transport these refugees to Ottoman lands and issued a decree across the country welcoming them and allowing them to become Ottoman citizens. He mocked the Spanish rulers, saying, 'He has made his own country poor and made my country rich!' As expected, the Jews and Muslims from Andalusia brought new ideas, technologies, and crafts to the Ottoman Empire, contributing greatly to its prosperity in the 16th century. The first printing press in Istanbul was established by Sephardic Jews in 1493.





Jewel Market (Bedesten): 1461

From the Bayezid II Mosque, head east into the maze-like and complex Grand Bazaar of Istanbul. The Grand Bazaar of Istanbul is known as the largest and oldest covered market in the world, with 61 streets and over 4,000 shops. The Grand Bazaar has been damaged by many fires and earthquakes throughout history, and construction work continued for nearly three hundred years. The earliest part of the building was started in 1461, shortly after the Ottoman conquest of Istanbul. It was originally called the Jewel Market (Cevâhir Bedestan) and belonged to the foundation (Waqf) of the Hagia Sophia Mosque.

In the 1470s (some say the 16th century), a second covered market was built next to the Jewel Market. It mainly sold textiles and was named the Sandalwood Market (Sandal Bedesten) after a sandalwood-colored silk fabric from Bursa. At first, the Jewel Market and the Sandalwood Market were two separate covered markets. However, as merchants kept opening shops around them, the two markets merged into one large area. By 1696, vaults were built over all the shops, finally forming the Grand Bazaar of Istanbul as it is today.













Mahmut Paşa Mosque: 1464

I performed namaz at the Mahmut Paşa Mosque (Mahmut Paşa Camii) outside the east gate of the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul. This mosque only finished its restoration and reopened in 2021, so I could not enter it when I visited in 2018.

Mahmut Pasha Mosque was built in 1464 by Mahmut Pasha, the Grand Vizier to Sultan Mehmed the Conqueror, and it is one of the oldest mosques in Istanbul. The Mahmut Pasha Mosque foundation (Waqf) owns many buildings, including 27 houses, 100 shops, and various warehouses and stables. This suggests that Mehmed the Conqueror likely tasked Mahmut Pasha with developing the area that is now east and north of the Grand Bazaar.

Mahmut Pasha Mosque still uses the architectural style from the Ottoman period in the old capital of Bursa, featuring two main domes and many smaller domes. After conquering Istanbul, the Ottoman dynasty was influenced by the central dome of the Hagia Sophia. They soon moved away from the Bursa style of small domes and began building mosques with a large central dome instead. view all

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Summary: Istanbul is shaped by Ottoman mosques, layered Muslim history, and everyday street life across both sides of the city. This second part continues the return visit with historic sites, food, and travel observations in the original sequence.

















Eat grilled fish.

We kept walking near the Hagia Sophia. This is the main tourist area of Istanbul, so restaurant prices are about the same as Turkish restaurants in Beijing. We grabbed a quick snack to hold us over and planned to head back to the food street in Kadıköy for a late-night meal.





Whirling dervish performance.

In the evening, we listened to a traditional Turkish Mevlevi Sufi music ensemble and watched a Sema whirling ceremony at the Kızlarağa Madrasa, which was built in 1582. They hold a Sufi music performance here every night at 7 p.m. (except Tuesdays), and you can buy tickets on-site or online.

The musicians sang poems by the great poet Rumi, the founder of the Mevlevi Sufi order, accompanied by the reed flute (Ney), the lute (Oud), and the zither (Qanun). I saw a drummer in photos of previous performances, but maybe the drummer was busy and not there this time.

The Mevlevi order has always had a close connection to the arts, and many famous Turkish classical poets and musicians belonged to this order. Among them, Hammamizade İsmail Dede Efendi (1778-1846) composed hundreds of pieces of Sufi music and is known as one of Turkey's greatest classical composers.

Kızlarağa was the title for the chief of the Ottoman harem eunuchs, a position mostly held by Black men. This position was established in 1574. It held great power in the 17th and 18th centuries, ranking just below the Grand Vizier and the chief religious authority, the Sheikh ul-Islam, in the Ottoman court. It played a decisive role several times in removing Grand Viziers and in the enthronement of Sultans.



















Hagia Sophia.

After watching the whirling dance, we went to the Hagia Sophia. When I came in 2018, it was still a museum. Although it has now been restored as a mosque, it is still packed with tourists during the day, and the lines are very long. We went at nine in the evening, so there was no line, and it was great to see the night view.

Standing in the square in front of the Hagia Sophia, the first thing you see is the Byzantine basilica built in 537. It was the largest church in the world at the time and the first building to fully use a pendentive dome structure. The central dome at the heart of the basilica opened a new chapter in world architectural history and became the signature structure for Ottoman mosques a thousand years later.

During the reign of Mehmed the Conqueror, a wooden minaret (bangke ta) was first erected on the southwest semi-dome of the Hagia Sophia. After Sultan Bayezid II (reigned 1481-1512) took the throne, he built another red brick minaret at the southeast corner. Around the mid-16th century, Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent (reigned 1520-1566) rebuilt these two minarets using white limestone and sandstone.

During the reign of Sultan Selim II (reigned 1566-1574), the structure of the Hagia Sophia became unstable. The great Ottoman royal architect Mimar Sinan added 24 buttresses to support the cathedral. He also built two new 60-meter-tall minarets, giving the cathedral its four-minaret design.











On the pendentives around the central dome of the Hagia Sophia, there is a six-winged angel (hexapterygon) on each. The two on the east side are mosaic murals created when the cathedral was rebuilt after an earthquake in 1346, while the two on the west side were repainted later. During the Ottoman period, the faces of these four six-winged angels were covered with star-shaped metal plates. Between 1847 and 1849, the Swiss Fossati brothers were invited by the Sultan to renovate the Hagia Sophia, and they restored the two angels on the east side. In 2009, the metal cover on one of the angels was removed, revealing its original face. After the cathedral was converted back into a mosque in 2020, the angel faces were still preserved.









The floor of the Hagia Sophia's main hall is covered in carpets, except for one exposed section: the marble-inlaid coronation stone (omphalion), where Byzantine emperors were crowned. The coronation stone was laid when the cathedral was built in 537, though some of the small circles inside may have been added in the 9th century.



The main hall of the Hagia Sophia during the Ottoman period:

The prayer niche (mihrab) and the pulpit (minbar) were both renovated between 1847 and 1848 by the Swiss Fossati brothers, who were hired by Sultan Abdulmejid I. However, the giant candlesticks on both sides of the mihrab were brought back by Suleiman the Magnificent in the 16th century after he conquered Hungary. Next to the candlesticks are a pair of exquisite scripture boxes.

Directly above the mihrab is a Byzantine-era mosaic of the Virgin Mary holding Jesus. After the building returned to being a mosque in 2020, a white cloth was placed over the mosaic.

In 1847-48, Sultan Abdülmecid I added eight massive gilded Arabic calligraphy medallions to the cornice of the main hall. They were written by the calligrapher Mustafa İzzed Efendi and include the names of Allah, the Prophet Muhammad, the first four caliphs Abu Bakr, Umar, Uthman, and Ali, as well as the Prophet's two grandsons, Hasan and Husayn.



















In 1739, Sultan Mahmud I renovated the Hagia Sophia and added a magnificent library behind the coronation stone in the main hall.





The ablution fountain at the entrance was built in 1740.



In 1850, the Fossati brothers built a private royal box (Hünkâr Mahfili) for the Sultan on the Byzantine columns, allowing him to enter for namaz without being noticed by the public.







Eating a late-night snack in Kadıköy.

After visiting the Hagia Sophia, we took the subway back to Kadıköy on the Asian side. It was already 11 p.m. when we left our place for a late-night snack, but the streets were still very lively.





We first ate some Turkish flaky pastry (börek). This food is said to have been brought to the Anatolian Peninsula by Turkic peoples as they migrated westward from Central Asia. It later took its final form in the Ottoman court before spreading to the Balkans and North Africa under Ottoman rule. There are many types of börek. The most common is water pastry (su böreği), which is filled with white cheese (beyaz peynir) and parsley, though some versions also include minced meat.







Then we had a cheese pastry dessert (künefe) served with ice cream. Legend has it that künefe was invented by a physician in the court of the Fatimid Caliphate in Egypt or the Umayyad Caliphate in Syria to satisfy the Caliph's hunger during Ramadan. For hundreds of years, künefe has been a classic dessert for breaking the fast in the Middle East and even appears in One Thousand and One Nights.

Künefe is made of buttery shredded dough, stretchy cheese, and crushed pistachios. When eating it, you pour a syrup called attar over the top. Although it has a history spanning over a thousand years, the current fried, stretchy version took shape during the mid-15th century Ottoman period and gradually spread throughout the Middle East under Ottoman rule.











For a midnight snack in Istanbul, we had grilled lamb intestines (kokorech), tripe soup (işkembe çorbası), and stuffed mussels (midye).

Grilled lamb intestines (kokoreç) is a dish from the Byzantine era. It is made by stuffing lamb intestines with thymus, heart, lungs, kidneys, and some lamb fat, then roasting it with lemon, olive oil, oregano, salt, and pepper. After roasting, it is chopped up and sprinkled with oregano. You can eat it as is or inside a baguette, served with pickles and lemon.

The term for tripe soup (işkembe çorbası) comes from Persian and is popular in Turkey and the Balkans. Evliya Çelebi recorded in his travelogues that there were 300 tripe soup shops in Istanbul during the 18th century. Turkish people add vinegar-garlic sauce or egg-lemon sauce (avgolemono) when drinking tripe soup.

Stuffed mussels (midye) are a classic street food in Turkish coastal cities. Rice, oil, salt, and various spices are put inside the mussels, then they are cooked and cooled. You squeeze lemon on them before eating. This dish was first invented by Armenians during the Ottoman Empire and became popular in Istanbul in the 19th century. After the 1960s, people from Mardin who migrated to Istanbul began making stuffed mussels (midye). To this day, most of the carts selling stuffed mussels (midye) on the streets of Istanbul are run by people from Mardin, and they make them spicier than the Armenians did.

















Istanbul residents really love coffee. When we returned to the cafe downstairs from our place at midnight, many people were drinking coffee, and when we left at six in the morning, people were still drinking it. However, charcoal-roasted Turkish coffee is truly delicious, and it is very refreshing when served with a glass of water and a piece of chocolate.

















Further reading:

Early Ottoman architecture in Istanbul

Istanbul food tour

Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts in Istanbul

Visiting the museum at Istanbul Airport

Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts

The Great Ottoman Architect Mimar Sinan (Part 1): Early Years

The Great Ottoman Architect Mimar Sinan (Part 2): Maturity

The Great Ottoman Architect Mimar Sinan (Part 3): Peak Years view all

Reposted from the web

Summary: Ottoman Architecture Guide: Istanbul — Early Mosques Before Mimar Sinan is presented here as a firsthand travel account in clear English, beginning with this scene: I want to share some mid-15th to mid-16th century Ottoman buildings I visited in Istanbul. Let's see what Ottoman architecture looked like before Mimar Sinan became the royal architect. The account keeps its focus on Istanbul, Ottoman Architecture, Early Mosques while preserving the names, places, food, and historical details from the Chinese source.

I want to share some mid-15th to mid-16th century Ottoman buildings I visited in Istanbul. Let's see what Ottoman architecture looked like before Mimar Sinan became the royal architect.

1. Grand Bazaar of Istanbul: 1455-56

The Grand Bazaar (Kapalıçarşı) was started by the Ottoman Sultan Mehmed the Conqueror in 1455-56, just three years after he conquered Constantinople. The first part built was the Jewelry Bazaar (Cevâhir Bedestan). After it was finished in 1460-61, it was managed by the foundation (Waqf) of the Hagia Sophia Mosque. The Grand Bazaar kept expanding after that and finally reached its current size in the early 17th century.













2. Mahmut Pasha Bath: 1466

The Mahmut Pasha Bath (Mahmut Pasha Hamam) was built in 1466 by Mahmut Pasha, the Grand Vizier (Vezir-i A'zam) to Sultan Mehmed the Conqueror. It sits northeast of the Grand Bazaar and is part of the Mahmut Pasha complex.

Mahmut Pasha was a descendant of Byzantine Greek nobility. As a child, he was recruited into the Ottoman system through the Devshirme (child tax) or as a prisoner of war. He later entered the Ottoman court and became a skilled general. Mahmut Pasha performed well in the Ottoman wars to conquer the Balkans. He became the 13th Grand Vizier of the Ottoman Empire in 1456 and led the army that destroyed the Kingdom of Bosnia in 1463.

The Mahmut Pasha Bath originally had separate sections for men and women, but the women's section was torn down. Now, only the men's changing room with its 17-meter-wide dome remains, and there is a beautiful stalactite vault (Muqarnas) at the entrance. Past the changing room are two other domes, which are the warm room and the hot room.

The Mahmut Pasha Bath was once used as a warehouse, but now it is connected to the Grand Bazaar and serves as a shopping area.













3. Tiled Kiosk: 1472

The Museum of Islamic Art in Istanbul is part of the Istanbul Archaeology Museums. It is located inside the Tiled Kiosk in the outer gardens of the Ottoman Topkapi Palace. The Tiled Kiosk was built in 1472 by the Ottoman Sultan Mehmed the Conqueror (Fatih Sultan Mehmed) as a pleasure pavilion in the palace gardens. The Tiled Kiosk opened as the Imperial Museum (Müze-i Hümayun) between 1875 and 1891. In 1953, it opened to the public again as the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art. Later, it was merged into the Istanbul Archaeology Museums as their Islamic Art branch.

The building is cross-shaped. Because it was not influenced by Byzantine architecture, scholars think it might have been designed by an unknown Persian architect. The tiles on the building's exterior clearly show influence from Central Asian regions like Samarkand, while the bricks and polygonal columns are typical of Persian architecture.



















Some of the original interior decorations are still preserved in the Tiled Kiosk. The gold leaf on some tiles had faded, so parts of it have been re-gilded.

















The building houses a fountain built in 1590. The peacock design among tulips, carnations, and plum blossoms was a very popular theme during the reign of Ottoman Sultan Murad III (reigned 1574-1595).





4. Atik Ali Pasha Mosque: 1496

The Atik Ali Pasha Mosque (Gazi Atik Ali Paşa Camii) was built in 1496 by Atik Ali Pasha, the Grand Vizier to Ottoman Sultan Bayezid II. It is located south of the Grand Bazaar.

Atik Ali Pasha was originally a Bosnian from Sarajevo. He entered the Ottoman court as a white eunuch (Hadım). Because of his military achievements, he became a minister (Vezir) in 1496. In 1500, he led the army to defeat Venice and occupy the Peloponnese peninsula, and in 1501, he was promoted to the 22nd Grand Vizier of the Ottoman Empire.

When it was first built, the entire complex included a mosque, a madrasa (Islamic school), a soup kitchen, a caravanserai, and a Sufi lodge. Today, only the mosque and the madrasa remain. The mosque has had a difficult history. It was damaged by earthquakes four times—in 1648, 1716, 1766, and 1894—and was rebuilt many times. During the 1894 restoration, calligraphy by the Ottoman calligrapher Sami Efendi was placed at the entrance of the main hall.

This is a T-shaped mosque. It consists of a main dome directly above the hall and a semi-dome over the mihrab. There are two small domes on each side of the main dome, and the front porch has five small domes. Unfortunately, because of the many repairs after earthquakes, you can barely see the original 15th-century appearance inside the main hall.



















5. Bayezid II Bath: 1501-1507

The Bayezid II complex (Bayezid II Külliye) consists of a mosque, a madrasa, a bath, a tomb, shops, a caravanserai, and a kitchen. It was ordered by Ottoman Sultan Bayezid II (reigned 1481-1512) and built between 1501 and 1507. It is the second complex built by the Ottoman dynasty in Istanbul after the Fatih complex. Since the Fatih complex was rebuilt after being damaged by an earthquake in the 18th century, the Bayezid II complex is the oldest surviving Ottoman complex in Istanbul.

The Bayezid II Mosque reopened in 2020 after eight years of restoration. The madrasa has been closed for over a decade for repairs as a Museum of Calligraphy and has not opened yet. I hope I can visit both buildings on my next trip to Istanbul.

Luckily, the Bayezid II Hamam opened to the public as a museum in 2015 after restoration, so I was able to visit this 500-year-old Ottoman bathhouse.

The Bayezid II Hamam is so massive that it is commonly known as the Great Bath (Hamam-ı Kebir). This is a bathhouse with separate sections for men and women, so it has two main domes, each with a changing room (camekân), a warm room (ılıklık), and a hot room (hararet).

In 1730, the Albanian Janissaries led by Patrona Halil rose up and deposed Sultan Ahmed III. People say Patrona Halil once worked as an attendant at the Bayezid II Hamam. After the uprising failed, the Ottoman dynasty began to strictly manage bathhouses and restricted Albanians from working in Istanbul's bathhouses. From then on, bathhouse attendants in Istanbul mostly came from the Anatolia region, and this remains true today.















Mosque under renovation





6. Yavuz Selim Mosque: 1520-1527

The Yavuz Selim Mosque (Yavuz Selim Camii) was built in 1520 by the Ottoman Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent to honor his father, Sultan Selim I (reigned 1512-1520). It was completed in 1527 and is the third imperial mosque built by the Ottoman dynasty in Istanbul.

The Yavuz Selim Mosque sits on the summit of the fifth of Istanbul's seven hills, which is why the area is named Selim Hill. The structure of the mosque is similar to the Hagia Sophia, with a rectangular main hall topped by a shallow dome. The tiles at the entrance of the main hall use the traditional dry cord (Cuerda seca) technique. They are very similar to those in the Circumcision Room (Sünnet Odası) of the Ottoman Topkapi Palace, so we can conclude they were made by the same Iranian craftsmen who built the Ottoman palace.





























In the backyard of the Yavuz Selim Mosque is the Tomb of Selim I, built in 1523. Selim I was known as the Grim (Yavuz). During his reign, he greatly expanded the territory of the Ottoman dynasty. After conquering the Mamluk Sultanate in 1517, he gained control of the entire Levant, Hejaz, and Egypt, becoming the Custodian of the Two Holy Mosques and shifting the focus of the Ottoman dynasty from the Balkans to the Middle East. view all

Reposted from the web

Summary: Topkapi Palace — Ottoman History and Imperial Istanbul is presented here as a firsthand travel account in clear English, beginning with this scene: Topkapi Palace (Topkapi Saray) sits on the site of the old Byzantine acropolis in the eastern part of Istanbul's old city, overlooking the Golden Horn. The account keeps its focus on Topkapi Palace, Ottoman History, Istanbul while preserving the names, places, food, and historical details from the Chinese source.

Topkapi Palace (Topkapi Saray) sits on the site of the old Byzantine acropolis in the eastern part of Istanbul's old city, overlooking the Golden Horn. Ottoman Sultan Mehmed the Conqueror ordered its construction in 1459. Topkapi Palace was first called the New Palace (Yeni Saray) to tell it apart from the Old Palace (Eski Saray), which was built between 1454 and 1459. Topkapi Palace went through several major expansions and renovations in the 16th century. Its importance faded after the 17th century, and by the 19th century, it only served as a treasury, library, and mint.

Imperial Gate (Bâb-ı Hümâyûn)

The Imperial Gate (Bâb-ı Hümâyûn) is the main entrance to Topkapi Palace. The Imperial Gate was built in 1478 and covered in marble during the 19th century. Above the central arch is gilded Ottoman calligraphy. Besides verses, it features the tughras of two sultans who renovated the gate: Mehmed the Conqueror (reigned 1444-46, 1451-81) and Abdülaziz I (reigned 1861-76). There are guard rooms on both sides of the arch. The gate opens every day at the time of the dawn namaz and closes after the night namaz.



Hagia Irene Church (Hagia Irene)

After passing through the Gate of the Emperors, you enter the First Courtyard (I. Avlu), also known as the Court of the Janissaries or the Parade Court. Ottoman Janissaries would line both sides of the path here to welcome important guests.

On the west side of the path in the First Courtyard, you can see the Hagia Irene Church (Hagia Irene), which was built during the Byzantine period. After the palace was completed, the church was turned into an armory, and today it serves as a concert hall.



Middle Gate (Orta Kapı)

The Middle Gate (Orta Kapı) sits between the First Courtyard and the Second Courtyard (II. Avlu). This gate has two octagonal towers, and inscriptions on the gate show it dates back to 1542. During the Ottoman era, only the Sultan and the Queen Mother could ride horses through the Middle Gate. Everyone else had to dismount here.



Palace Kitchens (Saray Mutfakları)

The eastern part of the second courtyard holds the Imperial Kitchens (Saray Mutfakları). They were built in the 15th century based on the kitchens at Edirne Palace and were expanded during the reign of Suleiman the Magnificent. After a fire destroyed the kitchens in 1574, the chief Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan led the reconstruction. He added the two rows of 20 chimneys you see today.

The kitchens consist of 10 domed buildings connected together. These include the Harem kitchen, the outer court kitchen (Birûn), and kitchens for drinks, sweets, and dairy, along with storage rooms and staff quarters. About 800 kitchen staff members prepared food for 4,000 people.













The kitchens now display a large collection of gold, silver, and porcelain from the Ottoman court, including many pieces of Chinese porcelain.















Tower of Justice (Adalet Kulesi)

On the west side of the third courtyard is the Imperial Council Chamber (Dîvân-ı Hümâyûn), where ministers held meetings. Further to the northwest is the Sultan's Harem. A tall Tower of Justice (Adalet Kulesi) stands between the council chamber and the Harem.

The Tower of Justice is the tallest building in Topkapi Palace, and you can see it clearly from the Bosphorus Strait. The Ottoman Sultan could discuss matters with the Imperial Council through a gold-framed window in the Tower of Justice. In 1527, the scholar Celalzade Mustafa Çelebi first mentioned this window: 'His Majesty... built a towering throne and a grand loggia above the outer council hall where the viziers sat, overlooking the council hall below through a curtained window.'

The Tower of Justice was first built by Mehmed the Conqueror, expanded by Suleiman the Magnificent between 1527 and 1529, and the top was rebuilt in 1825 to give it a neoclassical style.





Gate of Carriages (Arabalar Kapısı)

The entrance connecting the Second Courtyard to the Harem is called the Gate of Carriages (Arabalar Kapısı). Inside is the Domed Cupboard Room (Dolaplı Kubbe), built in 1587 during the reign of Murad III. It served as the finance office for the Harem. The cupboards held financial records, contracts, and foundation funds for the Harem, all managed by the Chief Harem Eunuch.





Fountain Hall (Şadirvanli Sofa)

The front hall leading into the Harem is called the Fountain Hall (Şadirvanli Sofa). It connects the Harem, the private gardens, the Harem Eunuch mosque, and the Tower of Justice, and it is guarded by the Harem eunuchs. The Ablution Fountain Hall was destroyed by fire in 1665 and rebuilt in 1666, decorated with 17th-century Kutahya tiles. The bench under the tiles was for guards to rest, and there is a mounting block nearby that the Sultan used to get on his horse. There used to be a fountain here, but it was later moved to the private chamber of Murad III.











Courtyard of the Black Eunuchs (Harem Ağaları Taşlığı)

One side of the Ablution Fountain Hall leads to the Courtyard of the Black Eunuchs (Harem Ağaları Taşlığı), which is the first courtyard of the Harem. On the left side of the courtyard are the dormitories for the black eunuchs, the Princes' School, and the rooms of the Chief Black Eunuch (Kızlar Ağası), while the right side has the eunuchs' mosque and the rooms of the Harem supervisor. The buildings around the courtyard were destroyed by fire in 1665 and were later rebuilt.

On the left side of the courtyard, you can see valuable 17th to 18th-century tiles and gilded wainscoting, which feature the decrees of Sultan Mustafa IV (reigned 1807-08), Mahmud II (reigned 1808-39), and Abdulmejid I (reigned 1839-61).

The courtyard also has a beautiful fireplace decorated with 18th-century Kutahya tiles.



















Queen Mother's Apartments (Valide Sultan Dairesi)

Moving forward, you reach the Queen Mother's Apartments (Valide Sultan Dairesi), which served as the center of power for the entire harem. The Queen Mother's Apartments were destroyed in a harem fire in 1665, rebuilt between 1666 and 1668, and expanded throughout the 18th century. The rooms are covered in 17th-century blue and white, yellow and green, and Iznik tiles, while the upper levels feature 18th to 19th-century European paintings and various floral patterns.















Imperial Hall (Hünkâr Sofası)

The Imperial Hall (Hünkâr Sofası), also known as the Imperial Sofa or Throne Room, has the largest dome in the harem. The Imperial Hall served as the reception room and entertainment space for the Ottoman Sultan. The Sultan received his inner circle, guests, and family here. Various court events, including religious holidays and weddings, were held here.

The Imperial Hall was first built in the late 16th century and renovated into the Rococo style during the reign of Sultan Osman III (reigned 1754-1757). The walls of the hall are decorated with 18th-century blue and white Delftware tiles and Venetian glass mirrors, but the original classical paintings remain on the dome arches and pendentives.

The hall contains a gilded throne gifted to the Sultan by German Emperor Wilhelm II, with seats for the Queen Mother and the Sultan's wives located in the side galleries. The grandfather clock inside the hall was a gift from Queen Victoria of England.

















Private Chamber of Murad III (III. Murad Has Odası)

The Private Chamber of Murad III (III. Murad Has Odası) is one of the best-preserved and most complete buildings in the harem, built in 1578 by the chief Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan. The private chamber of Murad III has balanced proportions and a sensible design, showing the peak of Ottoman architecture in the late 16th century.

This private chamber has the second-largest dome in the harem, smaller only than the Imperial Hall. The room is lined with blue, white, and red Iznik tiles framed in orange, with a band of calligraphy tiles running across the middle of the walls. Inside, there is a two-story fountain; the sound of running water prevents eavesdropping and creates a relaxing atmosphere. The room also features a large fireplace decorated with colorful marble. Two luxurious 18th-century beds are also on display in the room.

Sultan Murad III reigned from 1574 to 1595. During his final years, he rarely left the palace and spent his days reading and resting in this private chamber.



















Harem Mosque (Harem Mescidi)

The Harem Mosque (Harem Mescidi) is in the northeast part of the Harem. It is where the concubines prayed and features beautiful tile decorations. This area once had fancy carpets, but now only the plain floor remains.



















Courtyard of the Favorites (Gözdeler/Mabeyn Taşlığı ve Dairesi)

The Courtyard of the Favorites (Gözdeler/Mabeyn Taşlığı ve Dairesi) is at the northernmost end of the Harem. It was expanded in the 18th century and overlooks the large pool and Boxwood Garden (Şimşirlik Bahçesi) behind the Harem. This is where the favorites (Gözdeler/İkballer) lived. If they became pregnant, they could be promoted to official consorts (Kadınefendi).









Golden Road (Altınyol)

The Golden Road (Altınyol) is a narrow passage along the main axis of the Harem. It connects the Courtyard of the Eunuchs, the Queen Mother's Courtyard, the consorts' courtyard, and the princes' chambers. You can reach the Harem exit through the Golden Road to continue touring other parts of the palace.





Mosque of the Eunuchs (Ağalar Camii)

The Servants' Mosque (Ağalar Camii) is the main mosque in the palace, dating back to the 15th-century reign of Mehmed the Conqueror. Ottoman sultans, servants (ağas), and guards all came here to perform namaz. After 1928, it became the Palace Library (Sarayı Kütüphanesi), housing tens of thousands of books and manuscripts in Turkish, Arabic, Persian, and Greek from the Ottoman Empire era.





Privy Chamber

The Privy Chamber was built in the 16th century by the Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan and served as the Sultan's office. The room holds precious sacred relics (Mukaddes emanetler), including the Prophet Muhammad's cloak, sword, bow, tooth, beard, saber, and handwritten letters. It also contains relics of the prophets Ibrahim, Musa, and Yusuf, as well as the four Rightly Guided Caliphs. Photography is not allowed inside.

In 1517, Ottoman Sultan Selim I (reigned 1512–1520) conquered the Mamluk Sultanate, and the last Abbasid Caliph, al-Mutawakkil III, handed the Prophet Muhammad's sword and cloak to the Ottoman Empire. According to tradition, every year on the 15th day of Ramadan, the Ottoman Sultan would lead the court to visit the sacred relics and kiss the Holy Cloak.





Inner Palace Library (Enderûn Kütüphanesi)

The Inner Palace Library (Enderûn Kütüphanesi), also called the Sultan Ahmed III Library (III. Ahmed Kütüphanesi), was built in 1719 by order of Sultan Ahmed III (reigned 1703-1730). It is known as a model of 18th-century Ottoman architecture. The library holds over 3,500 precious manuscripts, which are currently kept in the Servant Mosque (Ağalar Camii).

















Balcony Mosque (Sofa Camii)

The Balcony Mosque, also called the Sofa Mosque (Sofa Camii), was built by order of Sultan Mahmud II (reigned 1808-1839) for the Sofa Ocağı military corps.



Erevan Pavilion (Revan Köşkü)

The Erevan Pavilion (Revan Köşkü) is known as the final model of classical Ottoman palace architecture. Its walls are decorated with colored marble and Iznik tiles. Ottoman Sultan Murad IV (reigned 1623-1640) built this structure in 1635-1636 to commemorate the Ottoman Empire's victory over the Persian Safavid dynasty and the capture of Erevan, which is the current capital of Armenia. The Yerevan Pavilion is called the Turban Room (Sark Odasi) because it was once the place where the Sultan's turbans were kept. In 1733, Sultan Mahmud I (reigned 1730-54) converted the Yerevan Pavilion into a private library for the Sultan.















Baghdad Pavilion (Bağdat Köşkü)

The Baghdad Pavilion (Bağdat Köşkü) is also known as the final example of classic Ottoman palace architecture. Sultan Murad IV built it in 1638 to celebrate the Ottoman Empire's victory over the Persian Safavid dynasty and the capture of Baghdad. The Baghdad Pavilion has a similar shape to the Yerevan Pavilion. It is a prime example of Ottoman hall architecture and features high-level craftsmanship. The marble panels in the porch have a Cairo Mamluk style, and the window frames are decorated with mother-of-pearl and tortoiseshell. The charcoal brazier (Mangal) in the center room was a gift from King Louis XIV of France (reigned 1643-1715). Starting in the mid-18th century, this place was also used as the Sultan's private library.



















Circumcision Room (Sünnet Odası)

The Circumcision Room (Sünnet Odası) was built in 1640 by the Ottoman Sultan Ibrahim (reigned 1640-1648) as a place for Ottoman princes to have their circumcisions. The inside and outside of the Circumcision Room are decorated with rare tiles collected from many different places. The most precious ones are the blue and white tiles made in 1529, which were used to decorate the palace during the time of Suleiman the Magnificent (reigned 1520-1566). view all

Hello everybody, today, 1 Muharram 1444 Saturday, July 30, 2022 First day of the new year according to the Hijri Calendar.
 Greetings to all my Muslim friends from Istanbul, Turkey. 
I wish everyone a healthy , happy , peaceful year in unity , respect , peace , love and harmony .
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