Halal Food Guide: Tianjin Autumn Eats - Syrian Food, Turkish Food and Noodles
Reposted from the web
Summary: This Tianjin halal food guide follows an autumn eating route through Syrian dishes, giant river prawns, yellow broth pulled noodles, Turkish food, and Xinjiang fresh milk ice cream. It keeps the original restaurant details, dishes, photos, and food notes for readers planning Muslim-friendly meals in Tianjin.
Two months later, we went back to Tianjin for a weekend trip with our kids. We arrived in Tianjin on Saturday at noon and headed straight to the Al-Andalus restaurant in the Nankai District Sunac Center for some Levantine food. The owner is Syrian. Al-Andalus was the name Arabs used for the Iberian Peninsula during the Middle Ages. In the 8th century, under the Umayyad dynasty, Al-Andalus was a famous center for economy, culture, academics, and education, serving as an important bridge for cultural and scientific exchange between the East and the West.
We ordered the four-person feast set, which included lentil soup, cream of mushroom soup, a hummus trio, lamb samosas (samosa), chicken wraps (shawarma), a four-season pizza, a mixed grill platter, black tea, and a crispy salad. We also ordered yogurt separately. Overall, the food was very authentic. It offers better value than the Arab restaurants in Beijing, and you don't have to wait in line. Their yogurt was especially good, with a rich, tangy flavor that beats many of the Arab restaurants in Beijing. The only downside was that the samosa dough was a bit thick, more like the South Asian version than the thin-crust Levantine style.












After lunch, we went to the Tianjin Museum, which is currently hosting an exhibition of historical artifacts from the National Museum of Kazakhstan. See diary: [Exhibition Visit] Tianjin Museum's Kazakhstan National Museum Historical Artifacts Exhibition.

The Tianjin Museum displays exquisite brick carvings by the Hui Muslim families known as the 'Fancy Work Ma Family' (Huahuo Majia) and 'Brick Carver Liu' (Kezhuan Liu) from the Northwest Corner. See diary: [Exhibition Visit] Exquisite brick carvings by Hui Muslim artisans 'Huahuomajia' and 'Kezhuanliu' in the Northwest Corner of Tianjin.

If you are a friend (dosti) from Beijing and are tired of the same old restaurants, a trip to Tianjin will definitely open your eyes. On this trip to Tianjin, we discovered a restaurant called Xiju that specializes in giant river prawns (luoshixia). It is located on Fuxing Road, just west of the Northwest Corner. It is run by local Hui Muslims and is very busy at night.
Their signature dish is a two-pound platter of giant river prawns, which you can get spicy or with garlic sauce. Giant river prawns are freshwater prawns originally from Malaysia in Southeast Asia. They are large and have plump, tender meat, but the texture isn't as firm as sea prawns, and the prawn flavor isn't as intense. It is similar to the difference between freshwater fish and sea fish. We ordered the garlic giant river prawns. You can add noodles to the sauce, which my son loved. He couldn't stop eating them, from start to finish, and he was the one at our table who enjoyed the meal the most.
Their Chaoshan seafood porridge was also excellent. Besides having plenty of prawns, it was packed with other seafood, making the flavor very rich.
They also have various barbecue items. We ordered squid, flounder, pineapple beef skewers, cheese bread slices, charcoal-grilled beef short ribs, and beef kimchi cheese rolls. Everything tasted great, especially the flounder, which had a wonderful texture and flavor.
Their sizzling sea bass pot (zhuzhu luyu bao) was also a hit with everyone. The sea bass was very fresh, and the garlic-clove-shaped meat had a great texture.
Their fried chicken racks are sweet and sour, making them a perfect snack that gets addictive the more you eat.









On Sunday morning, we had breakfast at Shunfa Lamian and Zhensucheng in the Xiaohaidi area of the Hexi District. Xiaohaidi is a lively residential area in the south of Tianjin with plenty of halal snacks. Shunfa Lamian is a noodle shop that has been open for over twenty years, specializing in yellow broth pulled noodles (lamian) and braised noodles (banmian). Zhensucheng is a breakfast shop that opened in 1979, specializing in crispy crepe strips in savory sauce (guobacai). Both of these shops are now franchises. The one in Xiaohaidi joined both brands, so now you can have yellow broth pulled noodles (huangtang lamian) and traditional breakfast at the same time in the morning.
We ordered yellow broth pulled noodles, water caltrop soup (lingjiao tang), flour tea (miancha), and beef pie (niurou bing). It was my first time having yellow broth pulled noodles. The yellow curry powder makes the flavor very rich, and I think it tastes even more satisfying than the clear broth version. Their water caltrop soup and flour tea both taste good, and Suleiman especially likes their flour tea. However, their beef pie has a bit too little filling. I noticed many people at the neighboring tables were eating flatbread rolls with fried fritters (dabing juanquan).






After eating at so many good restaurants in Tianjin, I finally hit a dud this time. On Sunday at noon, we went to the Galata Turkish Restaurant in Hengji Plaza, Hexi District. First of all, their tables are tiny. We ordered a meal for four, and it couldn't even fit on the table. Secondly, it is not authentic! We have eaten at so many Turkish restaurants in Beijing, Yiwu, Fuzhou, and Guangzhou, and they were all very authentic, whether run by Turkish or Azerbaijani people. This is the first time we have eaten at an inauthentic one; it is nothing like what we ate in Turkey.
Their potatoes and roasted chicken were covered in thick layers of salad dressing and ketchup. It felt just like fast food sold at a temple fair, which doesn't fit the Mediterranean diet of Turkey that focuses on spices. Also, the grilled meat was not good. Some parts were dry, and some were salty. The grill chef's skills need improvement. The grilled meat was served with pilaf (zhuafan) made with domestic short-grain rice. I suspect the chef is our fellow countryman from Xinjiang.
They do have one big advantage, which is that it is cheap! The price is about half of what you would pay at a Turkish restaurant in Beijing, so you get what you pay for. Their milk pudding and Turkish coffee also taste good. The milk pudding is not sweet, and it is quite pleasant to have with coffee. It is just that they served the coffee with a candy ball that children often eat, which is also a bad match. They should at least serve it with Turkish delight or even a piece of chocolate.






After leaving Hengji Plaza, we went to the Tatami Xinjiang Restaurant at the entrance to pack some diced noodle stir-fry (dingding chaomian) for Suleiman to eat in the evening. Their decor is quite good and very Xinjiang-style. The waiter who served us was Uyghur, and the chefs in the kitchen were all Hui Muslims. It is an open kitchen, and the chefs have real skill. We specifically asked for it to be made for a child, and the diced noodle stir-fry was indeed very suitable. Suleiman loved it. They also sell fresh milk ice cream from Tacheng, and I bought one that tasted quite good.









I just remembered that I can add locations to my official account posts, so I will also add locations for the Tianjin restaurants recommended in previous issues.
Between the mountains and the sea: from Huairou farmhouses to coastal Western restaurants.
Haishiwan Halal Western Restaurant.
Eating Halal Western food at Haishiwan on Binjiang Road in Tianjin. Overall, their dish names and plating are quite fancy and look great in photos, but the actual taste is average, similar to fast food in a shopping mall.
The best thing they have is probably the avocado salad, which is very healthy. The tuna salad is more like a simple home-style mixed vegetable dish. The seafood fried rice and beef fried rice are both soy sauce-based, which feels more suited to the tastes of the Shandong cuisine region. The seafood pizza is plated very beautifully, but the pizza base itself is very average, just like the taste of a cheap fast-food chain. They also have various drinks with names I don't recognize, which are just sparkling water mixed with syrup. The fog coffee is great for photos, but the coffee itself is also very average.
Nuobona Halal Western Restaurant.
Nuobona Halal Western Restaurant at the 80 Food Plaza in TEDA, Tianjin, is definitely the best Halal Western food I have ever eaten! The taste is far better than the ones in downtown Tianjin.
Muyi Chinese Restaurant, Nuobona Western Restaurant, and the Western bakery on the first floor in Taifeng are all part of the Yisilai Mu Restaurant founded in 1994, and their Halal license number is Binhai 001. We have eaten at Muyi before; it is creative Chinese food with many dishes they invented themselves, and the taste is excellent. This time we tried their Western food and still had nothing but praise. Their environment is also very good, and they have a special area for children to play, which is very thoughtful.
We ordered charcoal-grilled baby lobster and creamy lobster soup served two ways, French escargot, British fish and chips, baked potato skins, golden pillow durian pizza, lasagna, tiramisu, non-alcoholic mojito, dirty milk, and rose soda, and we also ordered a kids' meal for Suleiman (spaghetti, pumpkin soup, french fries, grilled chicken wings, and fruit salad). The lobster is very tender, and the creamy lobster soup is rich and very fragrant. This was my first time eating baked escargot; the texture is very chewy and bouncy, and the various spices are added perfectly. It was my first time eating British-style fried fish, though it didn't come with french fries. The way they make it is very different from the common cod cakes in China; the fish meat is ground very finely, and the texture is very moist.
Taking kids out to eat in Tianjin: Yemeni food, Algerian desserts, rice noodle rolls (changfen), Japanese food, and water caltrop soup.
Socotra Yemeni Restaurant.
Many Yemeni restaurants have opened in Guangzhou and Yiwu, but Beijing's Arab restaurants are still mostly Levantine style. If you want a Yemeni meal, you have to take an intercity train to Tianjin.
Socotra is Socotra Island in the Arabian Sea, southeast of Yemen. It was called Sugudala in the Ming Dynasty's Zheng He Navigation Map. Socotra Island was listed as a World Natural Heritage site in 2008. The island is most famous for its dragon blood trees. The Socotra restaurant's logo is a dragon blood tree, and there are photos of the trees hanging in the shop.
We ordered the signature soup, chicken lentil soup, lamb Zurbian rice, Mushakkal stir-fried vegetables, Fahsa beef stew, banana mango juice, and Khubz flatbread. Zurbian rice is a bit like Indian Biryani rice, as both are stir-fried with various spices. Their lamb is roasted and smells great, but we found the rice a bit dry. There are also small bone fragments inside, so be careful not to let children eat it.
When you go to a Yemeni restaurant, you must try the classic Yemeni dish, Fahsa beef stew. Fahsa is usually made with lamb, but this place uses beef. When they make it, they stew the meat until it is very tender. It starts in a large vat and is then moved to a small pot to continue stewing. Besides ginger, garlic, and cumin, they add a spice called fenugreek (Hulbah) when stewing the meat. Fenugreek is actually what people in Northwest China often call fragrant beans (kudou). People in the Northwest dry the leaves of the fenugreek plant and grind them into powder to steam buns, while Yemenis grind the seeds to stew meat. Fenugreek seeds expand when they meet water and easily foam up when stirred in a bowl.
The classic pairing for Fahsa stew is Mulawah Yemeni flatbread, but this place requires you to order it in advance. You can only get Khubz flatbread if you walk in. Khubz flatbread is actually the same as the pita bread in Levantine cuisine. The version they make is quite hard, and to be honest, it is not very tasty.
Qianmu Halal Japanese Cuisine
There are no longer any halal Japanese restaurants in Beijing, so you have to go to Tianjin for this. This place is very popular, and it is hard to get a seat without booking in advance. When we went after eight o'clock, they had even sold out of rice, so we had to go to the ramen shop across the street to buy some.
We ordered tempura udon, sukiyaki, eel rice, a grilled platter, cod roe potato gratin, cheese-baked crab shell, a slow-cooked sushi platter, and marble soda. Suleiman loves their udon noodles. He couldn't stop eating them, and after he finished, he was so happy that he fell right asleep. There are quite a few grilled items, but they are mostly mushroom-based vegetable dishes with less meat. The soy sauce for the sushi is a bit salty, and the sushi itself is just average, which is a pity. The staff saw we had a child, so they cooked the sukiyaki for us before bringing it to the table. That deserves a thumbs up. The eel rice tastes okay, and next time I want to try their teriyaki chicken rice.
Xue's Northwest Corner Old-Style Breakfast
Ever since the Northwest Corner became super popular, I basically stopped going there to eat. Actually, Tianjin has so many delicious breakfast spots, not just the Northwest Corner. I used to go to Tianmu and Jinjiayao for breakfast, but this time I went to Xue's Northwest Corner Old-Style Breakfast in the Lushuidao area of Jinnan District. Their shop is a simple neighborhood eatery on the ground floor of an apartment complex, where all the local seniors come to eat.
We didn't arrive until nine, so most things were sold out. We just ordered water caltrop dumplings (lingjiao tang), sesame flatbread with meat (shaobing jiarou), and savory crepe strips in sauce (guobacai). Their water caltrop dumplings are truly delicious. The skin is the perfect texture, and the filling is very fragrant. Suleiman ate several in one go. The sesame flatbread for the meat sandwich is crispy, and the flavor is quite good. The savory crepe strips are a traditional old-school flavor, but eating both the dumplings and the crepe strips together is a bit heavy. I feel like the crepe strips go best with iron-pot soy milk.
Algerian Bakery
I had an Algerian afternoon tea at Lyn's Healthy Bakeshop on Chifeng Road in Tianjin. Chifeng Road is in the former French Concession area, which is full of small Western-style villas and all kinds of little shops.
The owner, who is from Algeria, opened this small shop for tea and desserts. It should be the first Algerian restaurant in China. I have to say, Tianjin's food scene is once again at the forefront of internationalization!
They offer both à la carte and afternoon tea sets. They have both traditional Algerian desserts and Western pastries. Everything uses maple syrup instead of white sugar, focusing on healthy eating. It is probably the least sweet Arabic dessert shop I have ever visited!
We drank Algerian mint tea and Algerian orange blossom lemonade (Sherbet Mazhar). The mint tea is brewed to order, so you have to wait a while. The aroma is very strong, but because it is freshly brewed, you cannot get refills. Orange blossom water is definitely a signature Algerian drink, especially classic at wedding banquets in northern Algeria. The orange blossom drink is made from orange blossom water distilled from bitter orange blossoms, mixed with syrup and water. It is very refreshing in the summer.
We ate Algerian baklava (Baklawa), apple pie, milk pudding (M'halbi), and cheesecake. Suleiman loved the cheesecake the most. Baklava was introduced to Algeria from Turkey during the Ottoman period. The Algerian version adds crushed almonds and orange blossom water, so the taste is different from the Turkish one.
Milk pudding (M'halbi) is a classic Middle Eastern dessert for breaking the fast and is most popular during Ramadan. The name M'halbi comes from Al-Muhallab, the governor of Khorasan during the Umayyad Caliphate. Legend has it that he once had a stomachache, and a doctor made him milk-boiled rice flour with sugar. He liked it so much that he named the dessert after himself.
Finally, I want to say that their food is excellent, but the decor is still a bit simple. If they could highlight the Algerian theme more, it would definitely become a new trendy spot in Tianjin.
Yiweizhai Halal Rice Noodle Rolls
I ate rice noodle rolls (changfen) at Yiweizhai on Xihu Road in Tianjin. I used to go to Yeji Changfen whenever I visited Tianjin, but this was my first time at Yiweizhai. The shop at Yiweizhai is small, but they have a huge variety of dishes. We ordered seafood rice noodle rolls, fresh shrimp steamed dumplings (shaomai), chicken feet in black bean sauce (chizhi fengzhua), claypot rice with cured beef (laoniurou baozai fan), plain beef tendon balls, curry beef balls, curry fish balls, and traditional crispy mung bean starch jelly (laowei cuipi menzi). Except for the claypot rice, which takes a while because it is cooked from raw rice, the other dishes arrived very quickly.
Overall, their food is very good. It really shows how much effort Tianjin people put into their cooking. Their rice noodle rolls have a great texture, not as firm as the ones I had in Hong Kong. Their beef tendon balls and fish balls also have a fantastic texture; we ordered one portion and then added another. By comparison, the beef balls were just average. This was my first time eating crispy mung bean starch jelly. I had only ever had pan-fried versions before, which clearly do not taste as good as this crispy-on-the-outside, tender-on-the-inside version.
My hometown: Hexiwu Town, Wuqing, Tianjin.
Xinpengzhai Restaurant.
I first bought the signature golden-rimmed braised noodles (jinbian koumen) at Xinpengzhai Restaurant. It is beef and bean sprout braised noodles (menbing) topped with a fried egg. The egg was very fragrant, and it was my first time eating menbing this way. It tasted excellent.
Wangji Lirenzhai.
Inside the Hexiwu farmers' market is the Shouyi Snack Street, where the most famous item is the yellow rice fried cake (huangmi zhagao) from the century-old shop Wangji Lirenzhai. We arrived a bit late and they were closing at 1:00 PM, so we just bought all the remaining fried cakes.
Lirenzhai is a Tianjin intangible cultural heritage project for the craft of making Hexiwu Lirenzhai fried cakes. The Wang family's ancestral home was in Cangzhou, Hebei. At the end of the Qing Dynasty, they fled the war and came to Wuqing. They first settled in Yangcun, but later heard that Hexiwu was densely populated and had a large community of Hui Muslims, so they moved to Hexiwu to settle down. In 1918, Wang Zhenlong inherited the family craft and officially set up a stall in Hexiwu, specializing in yellow rice fried cakes. After 1958, the Wangji fried cake business was merged into a cooperative store, and it was shut down after the 1960s. It wasn't until 1979 that the second-generation successor, Wang Jinyuan, inherited the family business and revived Wangji fried cakes. In 1999, the third-generation successor, Wang Xueren, took over and renamed it Lirenzhai, which is what it is called today.
Yangji Gezhihe.
Besides yellow rice fried cakes, the fried mung bean flour rolls (gezhihe) in Hexiwu are also very famous. Unlike the common version, the ones here are filled. They come in mung bean flour and wheat flour varieties, giving them a richer texture than standard fried mung bean flour rolls. Collapse Read »
Summary: This Tianjin halal food guide follows an autumn eating route through Syrian dishes, giant river prawns, yellow broth pulled noodles, Turkish food, and Xinjiang fresh milk ice cream. It keeps the original restaurant details, dishes, photos, and food notes for readers planning Muslim-friendly meals in Tianjin.
Two months later, we went back to Tianjin for a weekend trip with our kids. We arrived in Tianjin on Saturday at noon and headed straight to the Al-Andalus restaurant in the Nankai District Sunac Center for some Levantine food. The owner is Syrian. Al-Andalus was the name Arabs used for the Iberian Peninsula during the Middle Ages. In the 8th century, under the Umayyad dynasty, Al-Andalus was a famous center for economy, culture, academics, and education, serving as an important bridge for cultural and scientific exchange between the East and the West.
We ordered the four-person feast set, which included lentil soup, cream of mushroom soup, a hummus trio, lamb samosas (samosa), chicken wraps (shawarma), a four-season pizza, a mixed grill platter, black tea, and a crispy salad. We also ordered yogurt separately. Overall, the food was very authentic. It offers better value than the Arab restaurants in Beijing, and you don't have to wait in line. Their yogurt was especially good, with a rich, tangy flavor that beats many of the Arab restaurants in Beijing. The only downside was that the samosa dough was a bit thick, more like the South Asian version than the thin-crust Levantine style.












After lunch, we went to the Tianjin Museum, which is currently hosting an exhibition of historical artifacts from the National Museum of Kazakhstan. See diary: [Exhibition Visit] Tianjin Museum's Kazakhstan National Museum Historical Artifacts Exhibition.

The Tianjin Museum displays exquisite brick carvings by the Hui Muslim families known as the 'Fancy Work Ma Family' (Huahuo Majia) and 'Brick Carver Liu' (Kezhuan Liu) from the Northwest Corner. See diary: [Exhibition Visit] Exquisite brick carvings by Hui Muslim artisans 'Huahuomajia' and 'Kezhuanliu' in the Northwest Corner of Tianjin.

If you are a friend (dosti) from Beijing and are tired of the same old restaurants, a trip to Tianjin will definitely open your eyes. On this trip to Tianjin, we discovered a restaurant called Xiju that specializes in giant river prawns (luoshixia). It is located on Fuxing Road, just west of the Northwest Corner. It is run by local Hui Muslims and is very busy at night.
Their signature dish is a two-pound platter of giant river prawns, which you can get spicy or with garlic sauce. Giant river prawns are freshwater prawns originally from Malaysia in Southeast Asia. They are large and have plump, tender meat, but the texture isn't as firm as sea prawns, and the prawn flavor isn't as intense. It is similar to the difference between freshwater fish and sea fish. We ordered the garlic giant river prawns. You can add noodles to the sauce, which my son loved. He couldn't stop eating them, from start to finish, and he was the one at our table who enjoyed the meal the most.
Their Chaoshan seafood porridge was also excellent. Besides having plenty of prawns, it was packed with other seafood, making the flavor very rich.
They also have various barbecue items. We ordered squid, flounder, pineapple beef skewers, cheese bread slices, charcoal-grilled beef short ribs, and beef kimchi cheese rolls. Everything tasted great, especially the flounder, which had a wonderful texture and flavor.
Their sizzling sea bass pot (zhuzhu luyu bao) was also a hit with everyone. The sea bass was very fresh, and the garlic-clove-shaped meat had a great texture.
Their fried chicken racks are sweet and sour, making them a perfect snack that gets addictive the more you eat.









On Sunday morning, we had breakfast at Shunfa Lamian and Zhensucheng in the Xiaohaidi area of the Hexi District. Xiaohaidi is a lively residential area in the south of Tianjin with plenty of halal snacks. Shunfa Lamian is a noodle shop that has been open for over twenty years, specializing in yellow broth pulled noodles (lamian) and braised noodles (banmian). Zhensucheng is a breakfast shop that opened in 1979, specializing in crispy crepe strips in savory sauce (guobacai). Both of these shops are now franchises. The one in Xiaohaidi joined both brands, so now you can have yellow broth pulled noodles (huangtang lamian) and traditional breakfast at the same time in the morning.
We ordered yellow broth pulled noodles, water caltrop soup (lingjiao tang), flour tea (miancha), and beef pie (niurou bing). It was my first time having yellow broth pulled noodles. The yellow curry powder makes the flavor very rich, and I think it tastes even more satisfying than the clear broth version. Their water caltrop soup and flour tea both taste good, and Suleiman especially likes their flour tea. However, their beef pie has a bit too little filling. I noticed many people at the neighboring tables were eating flatbread rolls with fried fritters (dabing juanquan).






After eating at so many good restaurants in Tianjin, I finally hit a dud this time. On Sunday at noon, we went to the Galata Turkish Restaurant in Hengji Plaza, Hexi District. First of all, their tables are tiny. We ordered a meal for four, and it couldn't even fit on the table. Secondly, it is not authentic! We have eaten at so many Turkish restaurants in Beijing, Yiwu, Fuzhou, and Guangzhou, and they were all very authentic, whether run by Turkish or Azerbaijani people. This is the first time we have eaten at an inauthentic one; it is nothing like what we ate in Turkey.
Their potatoes and roasted chicken were covered in thick layers of salad dressing and ketchup. It felt just like fast food sold at a temple fair, which doesn't fit the Mediterranean diet of Turkey that focuses on spices. Also, the grilled meat was not good. Some parts were dry, and some were salty. The grill chef's skills need improvement. The grilled meat was served with pilaf (zhuafan) made with domestic short-grain rice. I suspect the chef is our fellow countryman from Xinjiang.
They do have one big advantage, which is that it is cheap! The price is about half of what you would pay at a Turkish restaurant in Beijing, so you get what you pay for. Their milk pudding and Turkish coffee also taste good. The milk pudding is not sweet, and it is quite pleasant to have with coffee. It is just that they served the coffee with a candy ball that children often eat, which is also a bad match. They should at least serve it with Turkish delight or even a piece of chocolate.






After leaving Hengji Plaza, we went to the Tatami Xinjiang Restaurant at the entrance to pack some diced noodle stir-fry (dingding chaomian) for Suleiman to eat in the evening. Their decor is quite good and very Xinjiang-style. The waiter who served us was Uyghur, and the chefs in the kitchen were all Hui Muslims. It is an open kitchen, and the chefs have real skill. We specifically asked for it to be made for a child, and the diced noodle stir-fry was indeed very suitable. Suleiman loved it. They also sell fresh milk ice cream from Tacheng, and I bought one that tasted quite good.









I just remembered that I can add locations to my official account posts, so I will also add locations for the Tianjin restaurants recommended in previous issues.
Between the mountains and the sea: from Huairou farmhouses to coastal Western restaurants.
Haishiwan Halal Western Restaurant.
Eating Halal Western food at Haishiwan on Binjiang Road in Tianjin. Overall, their dish names and plating are quite fancy and look great in photos, but the actual taste is average, similar to fast food in a shopping mall.
The best thing they have is probably the avocado salad, which is very healthy. The tuna salad is more like a simple home-style mixed vegetable dish. The seafood fried rice and beef fried rice are both soy sauce-based, which feels more suited to the tastes of the Shandong cuisine region. The seafood pizza is plated very beautifully, but the pizza base itself is very average, just like the taste of a cheap fast-food chain. They also have various drinks with names I don't recognize, which are just sparkling water mixed with syrup. The fog coffee is great for photos, but the coffee itself is also very average.
Nuobona Halal Western Restaurant.
Nuobona Halal Western Restaurant at the 80 Food Plaza in TEDA, Tianjin, is definitely the best Halal Western food I have ever eaten! The taste is far better than the ones in downtown Tianjin.
Muyi Chinese Restaurant, Nuobona Western Restaurant, and the Western bakery on the first floor in Taifeng are all part of the Yisilai Mu Restaurant founded in 1994, and their Halal license number is Binhai 001. We have eaten at Muyi before; it is creative Chinese food with many dishes they invented themselves, and the taste is excellent. This time we tried their Western food and still had nothing but praise. Their environment is also very good, and they have a special area for children to play, which is very thoughtful.
We ordered charcoal-grilled baby lobster and creamy lobster soup served two ways, French escargot, British fish and chips, baked potato skins, golden pillow durian pizza, lasagna, tiramisu, non-alcoholic mojito, dirty milk, and rose soda, and we also ordered a kids' meal for Suleiman (spaghetti, pumpkin soup, french fries, grilled chicken wings, and fruit salad). The lobster is very tender, and the creamy lobster soup is rich and very fragrant. This was my first time eating baked escargot; the texture is very chewy and bouncy, and the various spices are added perfectly. It was my first time eating British-style fried fish, though it didn't come with french fries. The way they make it is very different from the common cod cakes in China; the fish meat is ground very finely, and the texture is very moist.
Taking kids out to eat in Tianjin: Yemeni food, Algerian desserts, rice noodle rolls (changfen), Japanese food, and water caltrop soup.
Socotra Yemeni Restaurant.
Many Yemeni restaurants have opened in Guangzhou and Yiwu, but Beijing's Arab restaurants are still mostly Levantine style. If you want a Yemeni meal, you have to take an intercity train to Tianjin.
Socotra is Socotra Island in the Arabian Sea, southeast of Yemen. It was called Sugudala in the Ming Dynasty's Zheng He Navigation Map. Socotra Island was listed as a World Natural Heritage site in 2008. The island is most famous for its dragon blood trees. The Socotra restaurant's logo is a dragon blood tree, and there are photos of the trees hanging in the shop.
We ordered the signature soup, chicken lentil soup, lamb Zurbian rice, Mushakkal stir-fried vegetables, Fahsa beef stew, banana mango juice, and Khubz flatbread. Zurbian rice is a bit like Indian Biryani rice, as both are stir-fried with various spices. Their lamb is roasted and smells great, but we found the rice a bit dry. There are also small bone fragments inside, so be careful not to let children eat it.
When you go to a Yemeni restaurant, you must try the classic Yemeni dish, Fahsa beef stew. Fahsa is usually made with lamb, but this place uses beef. When they make it, they stew the meat until it is very tender. It starts in a large vat and is then moved to a small pot to continue stewing. Besides ginger, garlic, and cumin, they add a spice called fenugreek (Hulbah) when stewing the meat. Fenugreek is actually what people in Northwest China often call fragrant beans (kudou). People in the Northwest dry the leaves of the fenugreek plant and grind them into powder to steam buns, while Yemenis grind the seeds to stew meat. Fenugreek seeds expand when they meet water and easily foam up when stirred in a bowl.
The classic pairing for Fahsa stew is Mulawah Yemeni flatbread, but this place requires you to order it in advance. You can only get Khubz flatbread if you walk in. Khubz flatbread is actually the same as the pita bread in Levantine cuisine. The version they make is quite hard, and to be honest, it is not very tasty.
Qianmu Halal Japanese Cuisine
There are no longer any halal Japanese restaurants in Beijing, so you have to go to Tianjin for this. This place is very popular, and it is hard to get a seat without booking in advance. When we went after eight o'clock, they had even sold out of rice, so we had to go to the ramen shop across the street to buy some.
We ordered tempura udon, sukiyaki, eel rice, a grilled platter, cod roe potato gratin, cheese-baked crab shell, a slow-cooked sushi platter, and marble soda. Suleiman loves their udon noodles. He couldn't stop eating them, and after he finished, he was so happy that he fell right asleep. There are quite a few grilled items, but they are mostly mushroom-based vegetable dishes with less meat. The soy sauce for the sushi is a bit salty, and the sushi itself is just average, which is a pity. The staff saw we had a child, so they cooked the sukiyaki for us before bringing it to the table. That deserves a thumbs up. The eel rice tastes okay, and next time I want to try their teriyaki chicken rice.
Xue's Northwest Corner Old-Style Breakfast
Ever since the Northwest Corner became super popular, I basically stopped going there to eat. Actually, Tianjin has so many delicious breakfast spots, not just the Northwest Corner. I used to go to Tianmu and Jinjiayao for breakfast, but this time I went to Xue's Northwest Corner Old-Style Breakfast in the Lushuidao area of Jinnan District. Their shop is a simple neighborhood eatery on the ground floor of an apartment complex, where all the local seniors come to eat.
We didn't arrive until nine, so most things were sold out. We just ordered water caltrop dumplings (lingjiao tang), sesame flatbread with meat (shaobing jiarou), and savory crepe strips in sauce (guobacai). Their water caltrop dumplings are truly delicious. The skin is the perfect texture, and the filling is very fragrant. Suleiman ate several in one go. The sesame flatbread for the meat sandwich is crispy, and the flavor is quite good. The savory crepe strips are a traditional old-school flavor, but eating both the dumplings and the crepe strips together is a bit heavy. I feel like the crepe strips go best with iron-pot soy milk.
Algerian Bakery
I had an Algerian afternoon tea at Lyn's Healthy Bakeshop on Chifeng Road in Tianjin. Chifeng Road is in the former French Concession area, which is full of small Western-style villas and all kinds of little shops.
The owner, who is from Algeria, opened this small shop for tea and desserts. It should be the first Algerian restaurant in China. I have to say, Tianjin's food scene is once again at the forefront of internationalization!
They offer both à la carte and afternoon tea sets. They have both traditional Algerian desserts and Western pastries. Everything uses maple syrup instead of white sugar, focusing on healthy eating. It is probably the least sweet Arabic dessert shop I have ever visited!
We drank Algerian mint tea and Algerian orange blossom lemonade (Sherbet Mazhar). The mint tea is brewed to order, so you have to wait a while. The aroma is very strong, but because it is freshly brewed, you cannot get refills. Orange blossom water is definitely a signature Algerian drink, especially classic at wedding banquets in northern Algeria. The orange blossom drink is made from orange blossom water distilled from bitter orange blossoms, mixed with syrup and water. It is very refreshing in the summer.
We ate Algerian baklava (Baklawa), apple pie, milk pudding (M'halbi), and cheesecake. Suleiman loved the cheesecake the most. Baklava was introduced to Algeria from Turkey during the Ottoman period. The Algerian version adds crushed almonds and orange blossom water, so the taste is different from the Turkish one.
Milk pudding (M'halbi) is a classic Middle Eastern dessert for breaking the fast and is most popular during Ramadan. The name M'halbi comes from Al-Muhallab, the governor of Khorasan during the Umayyad Caliphate. Legend has it that he once had a stomachache, and a doctor made him milk-boiled rice flour with sugar. He liked it so much that he named the dessert after himself.
Finally, I want to say that their food is excellent, but the decor is still a bit simple. If they could highlight the Algerian theme more, it would definitely become a new trendy spot in Tianjin.
Yiweizhai Halal Rice Noodle Rolls
I ate rice noodle rolls (changfen) at Yiweizhai on Xihu Road in Tianjin. I used to go to Yeji Changfen whenever I visited Tianjin, but this was my first time at Yiweizhai. The shop at Yiweizhai is small, but they have a huge variety of dishes. We ordered seafood rice noodle rolls, fresh shrimp steamed dumplings (shaomai), chicken feet in black bean sauce (chizhi fengzhua), claypot rice with cured beef (laoniurou baozai fan), plain beef tendon balls, curry beef balls, curry fish balls, and traditional crispy mung bean starch jelly (laowei cuipi menzi). Except for the claypot rice, which takes a while because it is cooked from raw rice, the other dishes arrived very quickly.
Overall, their food is very good. It really shows how much effort Tianjin people put into their cooking. Their rice noodle rolls have a great texture, not as firm as the ones I had in Hong Kong. Their beef tendon balls and fish balls also have a fantastic texture; we ordered one portion and then added another. By comparison, the beef balls were just average. This was my first time eating crispy mung bean starch jelly. I had only ever had pan-fried versions before, which clearly do not taste as good as this crispy-on-the-outside, tender-on-the-inside version.
My hometown: Hexiwu Town, Wuqing, Tianjin.
Xinpengzhai Restaurant.
I first bought the signature golden-rimmed braised noodles (jinbian koumen) at Xinpengzhai Restaurant. It is beef and bean sprout braised noodles (menbing) topped with a fried egg. The egg was very fragrant, and it was my first time eating menbing this way. It tasted excellent.
Wangji Lirenzhai.
Inside the Hexiwu farmers' market is the Shouyi Snack Street, where the most famous item is the yellow rice fried cake (huangmi zhagao) from the century-old shop Wangji Lirenzhai. We arrived a bit late and they were closing at 1:00 PM, so we just bought all the remaining fried cakes.
Lirenzhai is a Tianjin intangible cultural heritage project for the craft of making Hexiwu Lirenzhai fried cakes. The Wang family's ancestral home was in Cangzhou, Hebei. At the end of the Qing Dynasty, they fled the war and came to Wuqing. They first settled in Yangcun, but later heard that Hexiwu was densely populated and had a large community of Hui Muslims, so they moved to Hexiwu to settle down. In 1918, Wang Zhenlong inherited the family craft and officially set up a stall in Hexiwu, specializing in yellow rice fried cakes. After 1958, the Wangji fried cake business was merged into a cooperative store, and it was shut down after the 1960s. It wasn't until 1979 that the second-generation successor, Wang Jinyuan, inherited the family business and revived Wangji fried cakes. In 1999, the third-generation successor, Wang Xueren, took over and renamed it Lirenzhai, which is what it is called today.
Yangji Gezhihe.
Besides yellow rice fried cakes, the fried mung bean flour rolls (gezhihe) in Hexiwu are also very famous. Unlike the common version, the ones here are filled. They come in mung bean flour and wheat flour varieties, giving them a richer texture than standard fried mung bean flour rolls. Collapse Read »
Museum Guide: Tianjin Kazakhstan National Museum Exhibition - History and Artifacts
Reposted from the web
Summary: This article covers the Kazakhstan National Museum collection exhibition at Tianjin Museum, with a close look at historical artifacts, steppe culture, and Central Asian heritage. It preserves the original exhibition details, object names, photographs, and cultural context for English readers.
From September 30, 2024, to February 12, 2025, the fifth floor of the Tianjin Museum is hosting an exhibition of historical artifacts from the National Museum of Kazakhstan. Overall, it is not very stunning and lacks any major, heavy-hitting artifacts. Of course, I did not see any particularly significant artifacts when I visited the National Museum of Kazakhstan in person either.



These are carved clay tiles from the 12th-century Karakhanid dynasty Aisha-Bibi Mausoleum in the ancient city of Taraz. The architectural style of this mausoleum follows the Samanid Mausoleum in Bukhara and serves as an important example of Karakhanid architecture. Taraz grew into a wealthy city during the 9th-century Samanid dynasty, reached its peak during the 10th to 12th-century Karakhanid dynasty, and was destroyed by the Mongol army in 1220.

These are painted glazed tiles and glazed pottery shards from the Khoja Ahmed Yasawi Mausoleum, dating to the Timurid dynasty between 1389 and 1405. This mausoleum is a masterpiece of Timurid architecture and an important religious center in southern Kazakhstan. It was added to the World Heritage List in 2003.


These are glazed tile fragments unearthed from a mausoleum at the Zhaiyk ancient city site, dating to the 14th-century Golden Horde period. The Zhaiyk ancient city site was discovered by an archaeological team in 2001 and has since been fully excavated and studied. Inside the city, they found the remains of a Turkish bath with an underfloor heating system, and in the cemetery west of the city, they found a domed mausoleum decorated with colorful glazed tiles.

These are clay bricks unearthed from the Kyshkala ancient city site in the Syr Darya delta. Kyshkala was a wealthy ancient city during the Golden Horde period that produced a large number of clay bricks.



This is a Kimeshek, an embroidered head covering for married women from 19th-century southern Kazakhstan.


A Kimeshek with lace pendants.



A Kebeje, which is a wooden chest with bone inlays, dating from the 19th to the mid-20th century.



A Khan's robe (chapan) made of velvet, gold and silver thread, and appliqué from 18th to 19th-century northern Kazakhstan. After the 18th century, due to long-term conflicts with the Dzungar Khanate, the Kazakh Khanate split into the Senior, Middle, and Junior Juz, with each Juz having its own Khan. After the mid-19th century, the Kazakh Khanate was gradually controlled by the Russian Empire. Khan Kenesary Kasymov (reigned 1841–1847) was the last national hero to bravely resist Russia. After he died for his country in 1847, the Kazakh Khanate was declared fallen.




Traditional Kazakh clothing made by master designer Aizhan Abdubait. She comes from a family of tailors and is dedicated to making ethnic clothing. She has also restored the gold-thread embroidery technique that was gradually lost after the fall of the Kazakh Khanate in the 19th century. This is an embroidery technique that was used on the clothing of Khans and Sultans during the Kazakh Khanate era.





A 19th-century chest ornament.

A 20th-century belt.


An axe, a club, and a sheathed knife.

A 19th-century copper pot. Collapse Read »
Summary: This article covers the Kazakhstan National Museum collection exhibition at Tianjin Museum, with a close look at historical artifacts, steppe culture, and Central Asian heritage. It preserves the original exhibition details, object names, photographs, and cultural context for English readers.
From September 30, 2024, to February 12, 2025, the fifth floor of the Tianjin Museum is hosting an exhibition of historical artifacts from the National Museum of Kazakhstan. Overall, it is not very stunning and lacks any major, heavy-hitting artifacts. Of course, I did not see any particularly significant artifacts when I visited the National Museum of Kazakhstan in person either.



These are carved clay tiles from the 12th-century Karakhanid dynasty Aisha-Bibi Mausoleum in the ancient city of Taraz. The architectural style of this mausoleum follows the Samanid Mausoleum in Bukhara and serves as an important example of Karakhanid architecture. Taraz grew into a wealthy city during the 9th-century Samanid dynasty, reached its peak during the 10th to 12th-century Karakhanid dynasty, and was destroyed by the Mongol army in 1220.

These are painted glazed tiles and glazed pottery shards from the Khoja Ahmed Yasawi Mausoleum, dating to the Timurid dynasty between 1389 and 1405. This mausoleum is a masterpiece of Timurid architecture and an important religious center in southern Kazakhstan. It was added to the World Heritage List in 2003.


These are glazed tile fragments unearthed from a mausoleum at the Zhaiyk ancient city site, dating to the 14th-century Golden Horde period. The Zhaiyk ancient city site was discovered by an archaeological team in 2001 and has since been fully excavated and studied. Inside the city, they found the remains of a Turkish bath with an underfloor heating system, and in the cemetery west of the city, they found a domed mausoleum decorated with colorful glazed tiles.

These are clay bricks unearthed from the Kyshkala ancient city site in the Syr Darya delta. Kyshkala was a wealthy ancient city during the Golden Horde period that produced a large number of clay bricks.



This is a Kimeshek, an embroidered head covering for married women from 19th-century southern Kazakhstan.


A Kimeshek with lace pendants.



A Kebeje, which is a wooden chest with bone inlays, dating from the 19th to the mid-20th century.



A Khan's robe (chapan) made of velvet, gold and silver thread, and appliqué from 18th to 19th-century northern Kazakhstan. After the 18th century, due to long-term conflicts with the Dzungar Khanate, the Kazakh Khanate split into the Senior, Middle, and Junior Juz, with each Juz having its own Khan. After the mid-19th century, the Kazakh Khanate was gradually controlled by the Russian Empire. Khan Kenesary Kasymov (reigned 1841–1847) was the last national hero to bravely resist Russia. After he died for his country in 1847, the Kazakh Khanate was declared fallen.




Traditional Kazakh clothing made by master designer Aizhan Abdubait. She comes from a family of tailors and is dedicated to making ethnic clothing. She has also restored the gold-thread embroidery technique that was gradually lost after the fall of the Kazakh Khanate in the 19th century. This is an embroidery technique that was used on the clothing of Khans and Sultans during the Kazakh Khanate era.





A 19th-century chest ornament.

A 20th-century belt.


An axe, a club, and a sheathed knife.

A 19th-century copper pot. Collapse Read »
Travel Food Guide: Southeast Asia Drinks - Malaysia, Singapore and Indonesia
Reposted from the web
Summary: This article follows a tasting route through drinks from Malaysia, Singapore, and Indonesia, from street-side juices to regional bottled drinks and cafe favorites. It keeps the original drink names, places, prices, photos, and travel notes for readers looking for everyday food culture in Southeast Asia.
Malaysia
Malacca: avocado juice, longan lemon tea, and lime plum juice (lime plum shuizhi).
Penang: sour plum guava juice, Penang nutmeg water, and Arabian rose water.
Seremban: lychee water.
Kuala Lumpur: blue pea flower tea and barley lime water.
Singapore
Clear soup (chee kong), three-layer milk tea, pulled tea (teh tarik), Milo dinosaur, and ginger tea.
Indonesia
Yogyakarta: cendol drink (es dawet ayu), dragon fruit juice, and ginger herbal drink (sekoteng).
Solo: basil seed cendol (es dawet telasih), durian cendol (es dawet durian), and herbal medicine (jamu).
Kudus: fruit ice (es buah).
Banten: mixed ice dessert (es campur).
Jakarta: layered rice flour jelly drink (selendang mayang).
Malaysia
Malacca
Avocado juice
Across from Dataran Pahlawan in Malacca, there is a large Malay night market that seems to open only on weekends, offering endless varieties of snacks. We had just finished a meal and were too full to eat, so we bought a huge avocado juice. Tropical fruits are cheap all over Malaysia. As long as you don't buy durian in tourist areas, you can basically eat as much fruit as you want.


Longan lemon tea
In Kampung Hulu, there is a lovely cake shop called Malaiqa By Gula Cakery that is very popular with young people. The shop is located in a shophouse built in 1941. The decor is fresh and simple, showing a great example of revitalizing the old city. We ordered the longan lemon tea, and it tasted great. These fresh, small shops in Malaysia are really wonderful, though we usually go for traditional food and don't visit places like this very often.




Lime plum drink (juzi suanmei shui)
As the birthplace of Nyonya culture, you must try Nyonya food when visiting Malacca. There are many halal Nyonya restaurants on the east side of Malacca's old town along Merdeka Street (Jln Merdeka), with Atlantic and Cottage Spices being the most famous. Both places had lines when we arrived, so we took numbers for both. Cottage Spices had an opening first, so we ate there. We ordered the lime plum drink (juzi suanmei shui), which was tart and very appetizing.




Penang
Sour plum guava juice
Lagenda Cafe in Penang is a themed restaurant honoring the godfather of Malay film and music, P. Ramlee (1929-1973), and it plays his classic songs on a loop. We drank Asam Boi & Guava Tea, made with lime, mint, black tea, sour plum, and fresh-pressed guava juice; it was very refreshing and smooth.



Penang nutmeg drink and Arabian rose water (sherbet)
A unique group called Jawi Peranakan lives in Penang and Singapore. They are a Malay-speaking community formed by the intermarriage of Indian (as well as Arab and Persian) men and Malay women. "Jawi" means "Southeast Asia" in Arabic, and "Peranakan" means "locally born" in Malay.
After the 20th century, as the British Empire declined, the Jawi Peranakan community began to integrate into the Malay population. Today, the government counts most Jawi Peranakan as "Malay." Even so, the Jawi Peranakan community still works hard to pass on its unique culture, which shows in their architecture, clothing, jewelry, and food.
Today, the best place in Penang to experience Jawi Peranakan culture is the Jawi House Cafe Gallery. The building was originally a Straits Eclectic-style Chinese shophouse built in the 1860s with Malay-style decorations, and it later served as an Indian coppersmith shop. The street where the shop is located, Armenian Street (Lebuh Armenian, formerly Malay lane), was the earliest settlement area for the Jawi Peranakan community. In 2012, the Karim family, who have lived in Penang for six generations and have Punjabi roots, opened Jawi House here to make authentic Jawi Peranakan food.
We drank the Penang Nutmeg and Arabian Sherbet here. Nutmeg is a local Penang specialty, and this drink is mixed with honey and lemon for a sweet and sour taste.
Sherbet comes from the Persian word "Sharbat," which means a non-alcoholic sugary drink. In medieval Arabia, people loved to add syrup and honey to Sharbat for sweetness, along with almonds, lemon, apple, pomegranate, tamarind, dates, sumac, musk, and mint. Spread by Arabs and Persians, Sharbat is now popular across West Asia, South Asia, and the Malay Archipelago, especially during Ramadan. The Arabian Sherbet at Jawi House is made with rose syrup, mallow nuts, gum arabic, and basil seeds, giving it a very rich flavor.



Hibiscus
Lychee water
Mohd Chan is likely the most famous and largest halal Cantonese restaurant chain in Malaysia, now with 19 locations including restaurants, dim sum shops, and takeout spots. The founder of Mohd Chan, Dato HJ Mohd Chan, was born in Gombak, Selangor. Influenced by his Malay friends, he converted to Islam in 2007 and started his halal Cantonese restaurant that same year, focusing on blending Cantonese cuisine with local flavors. We drank their lychee water, which was packed with plenty of ingredients.



Kuala Lumpur
Blue pea flower tea and barley lime water
Whether it is halal Chinese food or halal Nyonya cuisine, the Klang Valley area where Kuala Lumpur is located has the highest number of options in Malaysia. Just inside the NU Sentral mall opposite Kuala Lumpur Sentral station, there are three halal Nyonya restaurants, making it a great place for traveling friends (dosti) to grab a bite. We ate at the largest of the three, Peranakan Place, which has several branches in Kuala Lumpur and Malacca. We ordered the blue pea flower tea and barley lime water, both of which were very unique.



Singapore
Chee Kong clear soup (qing tang)
Geylang Serai is located near the Geylang River in eastern Singapore. The Geylang Serai Malay bazaar (market) dates back to the 1920s. During World War II, the Japanese turned it into an amusement park, but after the war, it returned to being a bustling Malay bazaar where local Malay residents come to shop. The only Chinese stall in the bazaar is Chee Kong clear soup (qing tang), an old shop that opened in the 1950s. You can add longan, sweet potato, and ginkgo nuts to the clear soup, and it can be served hot or cold. Drinking a bowl of clear soup is very refreshing after eating spicy Malay food.




Three-layer milk tea
Haig Road Market & Food Centre has a lot of Malay delicacies. We drank the classic three-layer milk tea, which uses palm sugar, milk, and black tea to create three distinct layers with a rich taste.



Pulled tea (teh tarik) and Milo Dinosaur
We had a cup of the classic Nanyang pulled tea (teh tarik) at Tarik, a shop next to the Sultan Mosque in Kampong Glam. Local Malay youth really love this place. Tarik means 'pull' in Malay. By mixing black tea and condensed milk and pouring it back and forth between two containers with outstretched arms, the tea cools down and becomes frothy. We also ordered a cup of Milo, which is a chocolate malt powder from Nestlé. People in Malaysia and Singapore like to sprinkle Milo powder on iced Milo, which they call Milo Dinosaur.





Ginger tea
Bhai Sarbat on Baghdad Street was started by an Indian Muslim in the 1950s and has been around for 70 years. Bhai means brother in Urdu. Bhai Sarbat started as a street pushcart stall and moved into this shophouse on Baghdad Street in the 1970s. Today it sells hundreds of drinks, but the ginger tea is still the most famous.


Indonesia
Yogyakarta
Es Dawet Ayu
Es Dawet Ayu is a specialty iced drink from Central Java that comes from the small town of Banjarnegara. Its main ingredients are rice flour, glutinous rice flour, coconut milk, palm sugar syrup, and grass jelly.





Dragon fruit juice
Freshly squeezed dragon fruit juice on the streets of Yogyakarta. The juices in Java are really rich.


Sekoteng
Sekoteng is a Javanese specialty hot ginger drink made with peanuts, bread slices, and pearl flowers. Hot drinks are still quite rare in Java. It feels like the ginger helps remove dampness.


Solo
Es Dawet Telasih
Es Dawet Telasih is a Solo specialty iced drink made of coconut milk, palm sugar, cendol (rice flour jelly), bubur sumsum (coconut rice pudding), basil seeds, and black glutinous rice.


Es Dawet Durian is Es Dawet Telasih with durian added.


Jamu
Jamu is a specialty Javanese drink, which is a traditional Javanese herbal medicine mixed with honey and palm sugar.

Kudus
Es Buah
I drank Es Buah, a Javanese iced drink with various fruits added, in Kudus.



Banten
Mixed ice drink (Es Campur)
As a holy site, the Great Mosque of Banten attracts a constant stream of visitors every day, and a very lively bazaar has formed around it. At the bazaar, I drank a mixed ice drink (Es Campur) made with coconut milk, red sugar syrup, coconut meat, and fruit jelly.



Jakarta
Layered rice flour drink (Selendang Mayang)
Jakarta Old Town (Kota Tua Jakarta), also called Old Batavia (Oud Batavia), was the most important Dutch colonial outpost in Southeast Asia and served as the headquarters for the Dutch East India Company from the 17th to the 19th century. The center of Old Batavia is Fatahillah Square, where the main building is the Jakarta History Museum. The Jakarta History Museum was built in 1710 and was formerly the Batavia City Hall. The museum courtyard has a small area dedicated to traditional Betawi snacks, where I drank a rare, historic Batavian ice drink called layered rice flour drink (Selendang Mayang). Layered rice flour drink (Selendang Mayang) is made from rice flour, vanilla powder, pandan leaves, red sugar syrup, and coconut milk.
The Betawi people are a unique ethnic group that formed in Jakarta. In 1619, the Dutch established Batavia as the trade and administrative center for the Dutch East India Company. After the Dutch East India Company signed a formal peace treaty with the Sultanate of Banten in 1684, the swampy areas around Batavia could finally be cultivated. More and more people lived outside the city walls, including Malays, Sundanese, Javanese, Minangkabau, and Bugis people. Between the 18th and 19th centuries, the various ethnic groups living in Batavia began to merge. Over the course of a hundred years, they finally formed the modern Betawi people by the early 20th century. The Betawi people speak a version of Malay mixed with many words from Fujian Chinese, Arabic, and Dutch, known as Betawi Malay. It is the only Malay-speaking region on the northern coast of Java. Betawi cuisine is also strongly influenced by Indonesian Chinese, Arab, European, and local Sundanese and Javanese food.


Collapse Read »
Summary: This article follows a tasting route through drinks from Malaysia, Singapore, and Indonesia, from street-side juices to regional bottled drinks and cafe favorites. It keeps the original drink names, places, prices, photos, and travel notes for readers looking for everyday food culture in Southeast Asia.
Malaysia
Malacca: avocado juice, longan lemon tea, and lime plum juice (lime plum shuizhi).
Penang: sour plum guava juice, Penang nutmeg water, and Arabian rose water.
Seremban: lychee water.
Kuala Lumpur: blue pea flower tea and barley lime water.
Singapore
Clear soup (chee kong), three-layer milk tea, pulled tea (teh tarik), Milo dinosaur, and ginger tea.
Indonesia
Yogyakarta: cendol drink (es dawet ayu), dragon fruit juice, and ginger herbal drink (sekoteng).
Solo: basil seed cendol (es dawet telasih), durian cendol (es dawet durian), and herbal medicine (jamu).
Kudus: fruit ice (es buah).
Banten: mixed ice dessert (es campur).
Jakarta: layered rice flour jelly drink (selendang mayang).
Malaysia
Malacca
Avocado juice
Across from Dataran Pahlawan in Malacca, there is a large Malay night market that seems to open only on weekends, offering endless varieties of snacks. We had just finished a meal and were too full to eat, so we bought a huge avocado juice. Tropical fruits are cheap all over Malaysia. As long as you don't buy durian in tourist areas, you can basically eat as much fruit as you want.


Longan lemon tea
In Kampung Hulu, there is a lovely cake shop called Malaiqa By Gula Cakery that is very popular with young people. The shop is located in a shophouse built in 1941. The decor is fresh and simple, showing a great example of revitalizing the old city. We ordered the longan lemon tea, and it tasted great. These fresh, small shops in Malaysia are really wonderful, though we usually go for traditional food and don't visit places like this very often.




Lime plum drink (juzi suanmei shui)
As the birthplace of Nyonya culture, you must try Nyonya food when visiting Malacca. There are many halal Nyonya restaurants on the east side of Malacca's old town along Merdeka Street (Jln Merdeka), with Atlantic and Cottage Spices being the most famous. Both places had lines when we arrived, so we took numbers for both. Cottage Spices had an opening first, so we ate there. We ordered the lime plum drink (juzi suanmei shui), which was tart and very appetizing.




Penang
Sour plum guava juice
Lagenda Cafe in Penang is a themed restaurant honoring the godfather of Malay film and music, P. Ramlee (1929-1973), and it plays his classic songs on a loop. We drank Asam Boi & Guava Tea, made with lime, mint, black tea, sour plum, and fresh-pressed guava juice; it was very refreshing and smooth.



Penang nutmeg drink and Arabian rose water (sherbet)
A unique group called Jawi Peranakan lives in Penang and Singapore. They are a Malay-speaking community formed by the intermarriage of Indian (as well as Arab and Persian) men and Malay women. "Jawi" means "Southeast Asia" in Arabic, and "Peranakan" means "locally born" in Malay.
After the 20th century, as the British Empire declined, the Jawi Peranakan community began to integrate into the Malay population. Today, the government counts most Jawi Peranakan as "Malay." Even so, the Jawi Peranakan community still works hard to pass on its unique culture, which shows in their architecture, clothing, jewelry, and food.
Today, the best place in Penang to experience Jawi Peranakan culture is the Jawi House Cafe Gallery. The building was originally a Straits Eclectic-style Chinese shophouse built in the 1860s with Malay-style decorations, and it later served as an Indian coppersmith shop. The street where the shop is located, Armenian Street (Lebuh Armenian, formerly Malay lane), was the earliest settlement area for the Jawi Peranakan community. In 2012, the Karim family, who have lived in Penang for six generations and have Punjabi roots, opened Jawi House here to make authentic Jawi Peranakan food.
We drank the Penang Nutmeg and Arabian Sherbet here. Nutmeg is a local Penang specialty, and this drink is mixed with honey and lemon for a sweet and sour taste.
Sherbet comes from the Persian word "Sharbat," which means a non-alcoholic sugary drink. In medieval Arabia, people loved to add syrup and honey to Sharbat for sweetness, along with almonds, lemon, apple, pomegranate, tamarind, dates, sumac, musk, and mint. Spread by Arabs and Persians, Sharbat is now popular across West Asia, South Asia, and the Malay Archipelago, especially during Ramadan. The Arabian Sherbet at Jawi House is made with rose syrup, mallow nuts, gum arabic, and basil seeds, giving it a very rich flavor.



Hibiscus
Lychee water
Mohd Chan is likely the most famous and largest halal Cantonese restaurant chain in Malaysia, now with 19 locations including restaurants, dim sum shops, and takeout spots. The founder of Mohd Chan, Dato HJ Mohd Chan, was born in Gombak, Selangor. Influenced by his Malay friends, he converted to Islam in 2007 and started his halal Cantonese restaurant that same year, focusing on blending Cantonese cuisine with local flavors. We drank their lychee water, which was packed with plenty of ingredients.



Kuala Lumpur
Blue pea flower tea and barley lime water
Whether it is halal Chinese food or halal Nyonya cuisine, the Klang Valley area where Kuala Lumpur is located has the highest number of options in Malaysia. Just inside the NU Sentral mall opposite Kuala Lumpur Sentral station, there are three halal Nyonya restaurants, making it a great place for traveling friends (dosti) to grab a bite. We ate at the largest of the three, Peranakan Place, which has several branches in Kuala Lumpur and Malacca. We ordered the blue pea flower tea and barley lime water, both of which were very unique.



Singapore
Chee Kong clear soup (qing tang)
Geylang Serai is located near the Geylang River in eastern Singapore. The Geylang Serai Malay bazaar (market) dates back to the 1920s. During World War II, the Japanese turned it into an amusement park, but after the war, it returned to being a bustling Malay bazaar where local Malay residents come to shop. The only Chinese stall in the bazaar is Chee Kong clear soup (qing tang), an old shop that opened in the 1950s. You can add longan, sweet potato, and ginkgo nuts to the clear soup, and it can be served hot or cold. Drinking a bowl of clear soup is very refreshing after eating spicy Malay food.




Three-layer milk tea
Haig Road Market & Food Centre has a lot of Malay delicacies. We drank the classic three-layer milk tea, which uses palm sugar, milk, and black tea to create three distinct layers with a rich taste.



Pulled tea (teh tarik) and Milo Dinosaur
We had a cup of the classic Nanyang pulled tea (teh tarik) at Tarik, a shop next to the Sultan Mosque in Kampong Glam. Local Malay youth really love this place. Tarik means 'pull' in Malay. By mixing black tea and condensed milk and pouring it back and forth between two containers with outstretched arms, the tea cools down and becomes frothy. We also ordered a cup of Milo, which is a chocolate malt powder from Nestlé. People in Malaysia and Singapore like to sprinkle Milo powder on iced Milo, which they call Milo Dinosaur.





Ginger tea
Bhai Sarbat on Baghdad Street was started by an Indian Muslim in the 1950s and has been around for 70 years. Bhai means brother in Urdu. Bhai Sarbat started as a street pushcart stall and moved into this shophouse on Baghdad Street in the 1970s. Today it sells hundreds of drinks, but the ginger tea is still the most famous.


Indonesia
Yogyakarta
Es Dawet Ayu
Es Dawet Ayu is a specialty iced drink from Central Java that comes from the small town of Banjarnegara. Its main ingredients are rice flour, glutinous rice flour, coconut milk, palm sugar syrup, and grass jelly.





Dragon fruit juice
Freshly squeezed dragon fruit juice on the streets of Yogyakarta. The juices in Java are really rich.


Sekoteng
Sekoteng is a Javanese specialty hot ginger drink made with peanuts, bread slices, and pearl flowers. Hot drinks are still quite rare in Java. It feels like the ginger helps remove dampness.


Solo
Es Dawet Telasih
Es Dawet Telasih is a Solo specialty iced drink made of coconut milk, palm sugar, cendol (rice flour jelly), bubur sumsum (coconut rice pudding), basil seeds, and black glutinous rice.


Es Dawet Durian is Es Dawet Telasih with durian added.


Jamu
Jamu is a specialty Javanese drink, which is a traditional Javanese herbal medicine mixed with honey and palm sugar.

Kudus
Es Buah
I drank Es Buah, a Javanese iced drink with various fruits added, in Kudus.



Banten
Mixed ice drink (Es Campur)
As a holy site, the Great Mosque of Banten attracts a constant stream of visitors every day, and a very lively bazaar has formed around it. At the bazaar, I drank a mixed ice drink (Es Campur) made with coconut milk, red sugar syrup, coconut meat, and fruit jelly.



Jakarta
Layered rice flour drink (Selendang Mayang)
Jakarta Old Town (Kota Tua Jakarta), also called Old Batavia (Oud Batavia), was the most important Dutch colonial outpost in Southeast Asia and served as the headquarters for the Dutch East India Company from the 17th to the 19th century. The center of Old Batavia is Fatahillah Square, where the main building is the Jakarta History Museum. The Jakarta History Museum was built in 1710 and was formerly the Batavia City Hall. The museum courtyard has a small area dedicated to traditional Betawi snacks, where I drank a rare, historic Batavian ice drink called layered rice flour drink (Selendang Mayang). Layered rice flour drink (Selendang Mayang) is made from rice flour, vanilla powder, pandan leaves, red sugar syrup, and coconut milk.
The Betawi people are a unique ethnic group that formed in Jakarta. In 1619, the Dutch established Batavia as the trade and administrative center for the Dutch East India Company. After the Dutch East India Company signed a formal peace treaty with the Sultanate of Banten in 1684, the swampy areas around Batavia could finally be cultivated. More and more people lived outside the city walls, including Malays, Sundanese, Javanese, Minangkabau, and Bugis people. Between the 18th and 19th centuries, the various ethnic groups living in Batavia began to merge. Over the course of a hundred years, they finally formed the modern Betawi people by the early 20th century. The Betawi people speak a version of Malay mixed with many words from Fujian Chinese, Arabic, and Dutch, known as Betawi Malay. It is the only Malay-speaking region on the northern coast of Java. Betawi cuisine is also strongly influenced by Indonesian Chinese, Arab, European, and local Sundanese and Javanese food.


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2024 Halal Travel Summary: Singapore, Malaysia, China and Beyond (Jan-Jun)
Reposted from the web
Summary: This 2024 travel summary covers the first half of the year, including trips through Singapore, Malaysia, China, and other destinations with halal food and Muslim travel notes. It keeps the original route, dates, places, photographs, and food details as a clear English travel record.
January in Singapore.
I traveled to Singapore in January and tasted various halal Chinese dishes. I found prawn noodles (xia mian), Hakka stuffed tofu (niang doufu), Hong Kong-style dim sum, Hainanese chicken rice, and stir-fry tea house dishes run by Hui Muslims. See "Tasting Halal Chinese Food in Singapore."
I discovered a halal-certified Peranakan restaurant in Singapore called Old Nyonya Kitchen (Lao Niangre Xiaochu) on Joo Chiat Road. Also, in Bedok North Street in eastern Singapore, there is a 60-year-old shop called Lu Lin Nyonya Kueh. They have a shop in front and a factory in the back, selling all kinds of halal Nyonya cakes (kueh). See "Eating Nyonya Food in Singapore."
Singapore has a very strong Indian culture. Tamil people from the southeastern coast of India built the Al-Abrar Mosque and the Jamae Mosque in Chinatown, as well as the Nagore Dargah, a Sufi shrine (gongbei). Little India is the liveliest place in Singapore. The shophouses on both sides are filled with Indian shops. At the southern end, there is the Abdul Gafoor Mosque built by Tamils, and at the northern end, there is the Angullia Mosque built by Gujaratis. The Tekka Centre in Little India has a row of Indian food stalls, and there is also the Indian Heritage Centre that introduces Indian culture. Kampong Glam has many century-old Indian shops. Some specialize in roti prata (fei bing), and some were even favored by British governors. See "Experiencing Indian Muslim Culture in Singapore."
The Asian Civilisations Museum in Singapore originally focused on collecting crafts from Malays and other indigenous peoples of Southeast Asia. After the 1990s, it expanded its scope to collect items from West and South Asia, gradually becoming a museum that showcases the intersection of different Asian cultures and civilizations. See "Visiting the Asian Civilisations Museum in Singapore."
In Fort Canning Park, Singapore, there is the tomb of Sultan Iskandar Shah of Singapore, who is said to be the founder of the Malacca Sultanate. Archaeologists discovered thousands of 14th-century artifacts near the Sultan's tomb, many of which came from China and Java. At the foot of Mount Faber in southern Singapore, there is the tomb of Temenggong Abdul Rahman, one of the founders of modern Singapore, and his family. Kampong Glam in Singapore was originally the land of Sultan Hussein of Johor. The Sultan's family built the Sultan Mosque, the palace, and the Prime Minister's office here, and there is also a cemetery for the Sultan's family in the north. On the east side of Kampong Glam, there is the Hajjah Fatimah Mosque built by a Malay noblewoman. East of the Sultan's palace is the former site of a publishing house founded by members of the Sultan's family. Kampong Glam has several long-standing Padang rice (padang fan) restaurants that are well worth eating at. See "The Malays and the Early History of Singapore."
After Singapore was established as a free trade port in 1819, the Aljunied family from Yemen, who were doing business in Palembang, Sumatra, immediately came to Singapore and then established a spice and batik clothing trade network there. After that, other Arab merchants also came to Singapore to open shops, gradually forming Arab Street. We visited a batik and Nyonya clothing store opened by the Aljunied family in 1940, and bought traditional batik clothing at another batik shop opened by people of Yemeni descent. Another family from Yemen, the Alsagoff family, once dominated the spice trade in Singapore. They founded the oldest existing Islamic school (madrasa) in Singapore and built a shrine (gongbei) for a Yemeni Sufi sage in Singapore. See "Arab Merchants in Singapore."
Geylang Serai is located in the eastern part of Singapore. In the early 20th century, it became an important Malay community in Singapore. The Geylang Serai Market is the largest Malay market in Singapore, where you can taste various Malay delicacies. The nearby Haig Road Market and Food Centre also have many Malay delicacies. On the second floor of City Plaza near the Geylang River, you can find Singapore's last shop making handmade traditional caps (songkok). The Malay Heritage Centre is located next to the Geylang Serai Market. See "Visiting the Malay Market in Geylang Serai, Singapore."
January: Johor Bahru, Seremban, Klang, Ipoh, and Kuala Kangsar, Malaysia.
We went to Malaysia to eat various halal Chinese meals. In Johor Bahru, we ate at the Hainanese coffee shop Hua Mui and visited the Johor Bahru Chinese Heritage Museum. In Seremban, we ate at the halal Chinese restaurants Muhammad Kew and Mohd Chan. In Klang, we ate at the halal Chinese restaurants Yiqi Chichi and Rahmat Tan. In Ipoh, we ate at the famous halal Chinese restaurant Lau Kee, the halal Chinese stir-fry shop Gerai Ipoh Ipoh Aje, and stayed at the heritage shophouse hotel Sarang Paloh. In Kuala Kangsar, we ate at the old-school Hainanese coffee shop Yut Loy. See "Tasting Halal Chinese Food in Malaysia."
After the 14th century, the Minangkabau people living on Sumatra Island crossed the Strait of Malacca to settle in Negeri Sembilan on the Malay Peninsula. Today, you can experience Minangkabau culture at the Negeri Sembilan State Museum. On the hill to the east of Seremban Lake Garden is the Tuanku Ja'afar Royal Gallery. In the city center, there is the century-old Jamek Mosque and the famous long-standing shop Haji Shariff's Cendol. See "Negeri Sembilan: The Settlement of the Minangkabau People in Malaysia."
Kuala Kangsar is located in Perak, Malaysia. It has been the royal city of the Sultan of Perak since the 18th century, where you can feel the authentic Malay village (kampung) atmosphere. On Friday, we visited the night market at the Kuala Kangsar Market and tasted various Malay snacks. The core area of the Perak Sultan's royal city is on Bukit Chandan hill. It features the Istana Hulu built in 1898 (currently closed), the Ubudiah Mosque built in 1913, the Perak Royal Mausoleum built in 1915, the Perak Prince's wooden house built in 1912, the bamboo-walled Istana Kenangan built in 1926, and the Istana Iskandariah built in 1933 (not open to the public). See "The Royal City of the Perak Sultan and the Lively Malay Night Market."
Ipoh is located in Perak, Malaysia, and is known as the "City of Tin." In the late 19th century, many South Indian Tamils came to Ipoh to make a living, and the Ipoh Indian Mosque was built in 1908. Some North Indian Pathans (Pashtun descent) and Punjabis also came to Ipoh to work as police officers, and they built the Pakistan Mosque in Ipoh's Little India in 1930. In Ipoh's old town, we ate at a Tamil mamak stall that has been serving rice with curry (nasi kandar) for over 50 years, and we also had durian shaved ice (cendol) in the old town. The center for Malay people in Ipoh is the Panglima Kinta Mosque, built in 1898 by the Kinta River. See "Indian and Malay Mosques in Ipoh, Malaysia."
The Muhammadiah Mosque in Tasek, in the northern suburbs of Ipoh, was rebuilt under the leadership of the Ipoh branch of the Malaysian Chinese Muslim Association. It is the first mosque in Malaysia with a purely Chinese architectural style, and you can see Chinese characters everywhere inside. I performed the Friday prayer (namaz) at the mosque and met Dato' Sheikh Abdul Rahman, the chairman of the Ipoh branch of the Chinese Muslim Association. See "Performing Friday Prayer at a Chinese Mosque in Malaysia."
In 1889, Sultan Abu Bakar of Johor officially moved the royal capital to Johor Bahru. The Sultan Abu Bakar Mosque is a mosque in Malaysia with a very distinct Victorian style. The Mahmoodiah Royal Mausoleum is the royal burial ground for the Sultans of Johor, and it also uses Victorian architectural style. The Pasir Pelangi Royal Mosque is located next to the Pasir Pelangi Palace of the Sultan of Johor, and the entire structure is in a neoclassical style. The Johor Art Gallery has many works by Johor artists, and there is a young man on-site to guide you through the experience of traditional tie-dyeing. There are traditional Johor Malay buildings in the courtyard where you can change into traditional clothes for photos. On Jalan Dhoby in the old town of Johor Bahru, there is a traditional Indian bakery that has been open for over 80 years, and there is also an Indian mosque nearby. See "The Royal City of the Temenggong Dynasty of the Johor Sultanate—Johor Bahru."
On Jalan Tan Hiok Nee, a street with century-old arcade buildings in the old town of Johor Bahru, you will find Nyonya Dynasty, the first Nyonya restaurant in Johor state to receive halal certification. There are three halal Nyonya restaurants in the NU Sentral mall opposite KL Sentral in Kuala Lumpur, and this time we ate at the largest of the three, Peranakan Place. See "Eating Nyonya Cuisine in Johor Bahru and Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia."
Selangor is located on the west coast of the Malay Peninsula. After the 17th century, the Bugis people from Sulawesi Island entered Selangor as mercenaries and established the Sultanate of Selangor in the 18th century. In 1874, the Selangor royal city was destroyed in a civil war, and Sultan Abdul Samad moved the royal city to the foot of Jugra Hill inside the mouth of the Selangor River. Today, two historical buildings, the Alaeddin Palace and the Alaeddin Mosque, are still preserved here. The Sultan also built the Alam Shah Palace in Klang. The Sultan Sulaiman Royal Mosque, which is right next to the palace, uses Art Deco style. The Sultan Abdul Aziz Royal Gallery is located in the center of the old town of Klang. The arcade area of Klang's old town has a lively Little India neighborhood, and the Indian mosque is a landmark building. See "The Royal City of the Sultan of Selangor—Jugra, Klang."
February, Urumqi.
Hotan Street is a famous food street in Urumqi. We ate the Kashgar Yibazhua (a type of meat bun) that had the longest line on Hotan Second Street, drank pigeon soup, bought traditional Uyghur pastries, and ate roasted goose eggs, handmade yogurt, and Yangle spicy chicken. There are also many Kazakh restaurants on Hotan Street. We ate horse sausage narin (a traditional meat and noodle dish) and milk tea at the Sai Gulu Ke restaurant, and had a Kazakh breakfast at Baoersake. I also bought an old-fashioned poplar wood sapayi (a traditional percussion instrument) at the Duoluozhe Ethnic Musical Instrument Store in Erdaoqiao, and bought usma (a plant-based eyebrow pencil) on the street. We walked around the Tianshan Vanke mall, which has many Uyghur restaurants and even a restaurant specifically for children's supplementary food. See "Hotan Street, Erdaoqiao, and Tianshan Vanke in Urumqi."
Although I was busy with night prayers during this return to Urumqi, I still found time to visit two small Hui Muslim eateries. The first one is Zainab's childhood treasure restaurant—Heping Bridge Dumpling Restaurant. Their place is a rare, old-school Hui Muslim sour soup dumpling shop in Urumqi. The second place is Xinshenghua Meatball Soup (wanzi tang) for Hui Muslims in Changji. The environment is very nice, the kitchen is open for everyone to see, and the food tastes great. See "Sharing Two Hui Muslim Eateries I Visited in Urumqi This Time."
I went to the Dawan Gongbei in Urumqi to attend the funeral (maitai) for an elder from the Luyuan Street community. After the funeral, I visited the two sages at the Dawan Gongbei. The first is the elder from Weijiapu, the first imam (ahong) to start formal religious education in Urumqi. The second is Imam Ma Zongfu, the leader of the Beiliang Mosque and Beifang Mosque in Urumqi, known to everyone as Elder Datong. See "Visiting the Dawan Gongbei in Urumqi."
March, Wuhan
I returned to Wuhan ten years after graduation. At night, I ate at Diaohuzi Hui Muslim Barbecue in Erqi, Jiang'an. In the morning, I prayed (namaz) at the Jiang'an Mosque. At Chengliji, I caught some freshly fried beef meatballs (niurou yuanzi). At the Yixiangzhai food shop nearby, I bought peanut brittle (huasheng su) and ginger candy (jiangzhi zatang). On the side road of Erqi, I ate three-ingredient noodles and beef mixed noodles at the Halal Shuangbao Red Oil Beef series shop. At noon, I ate Ma's hot dry noodles (reganmian) on Liangdao Street in Wuchang and taro cheese bricks at the Halal Red Brick Wall shop. In the evening, I went to the Yizhiwei Restaurant on Bayi Road to eat Halal Hubei cuisine. See "Returning to Wuhan Ten Years After Graduation (Part 1): Jiang'an Mosque, Central China Normal University, and Wuchang Food."
Early in the morning, I went to the Ma Si Baba Gongbei on Huquan Street to pay my respects. In the afternoon, I drank sand-boiled coffee and ate baklava at a Turkish cafe in Tongxingli, Hankou. In the afternoon, I went to the Fatumei Restaurant on Huangxing Road to eat beef spring rolls, stir-fried beef tripe, and shredded dry-fried beef. See "Returning to Wuhan Ten Years After Graduation (Part 2): Ma Si Baba Gongbei, Turkish Coffee, and Fatumei Restaurant."
March, Hexiwu, Wuqing, Tianjin
I went back to my hometown with my family in Hexiwu Town, Wuqing District, Tianjin. Because it was a key hub for water transport, Hexiwu Town had many Hui Muslim merchants during the Ming and Qing dynasties. There was a Hui Muslim camp southwest of the town, and the Hexiwu Mosque was first built in the early years of the Yongle reign of the Ming Dynasty. After leaving the mosque, we bought the local specialty golden-rimmed braised meat (jinbian koumen) at the Xinpengzhai Restaurant. Then we went to the "First Post Station Snack Street" inside the Hexiwu Farmers' Market. The most famous item there is the yellow rice fried cake (huangmi zhagao) from the century-old Wangji Lirenzhai. Also, the crispy fried dough pockets (gezhe he) of Hexiwu are very famous. See "My Hometown—Hexiwu Town, Wuqing, Tianjin."
May, Yiwu and Lishui, Zhejiang
After four years, we visited Yiwu again. After travel restrictions were lifted, Yiwu became busy again. People from countries in the Middle East and Africa all came to Yiwu to buy goods, and many new Middle Eastern restaurants opened, especially in the Binwang business district. This time, we chose a few of the newly opened restaurants to try. See "Many New Middle Eastern Restaurants Have Opened in Yiwu."
On the afternoon of May 2, I took the high-speed train from Yiwu to Lishui to visit Lishui Mosque. Lishui Mosque has two sections, featuring two gate towers, a front hall, connecting corridors, and a main hall, all in a distinct local Lishui style. The gate towers are the most unique part and are listed as a Lishui City cultural heritage site. See "Visiting Lishui Mosque in Zhejiang."
In May, I visited Fuzhou, Quanzhou, and Xiamen in Fujian.
I visited Fuzhou Mosque at Nanmendou and went to pay my respects at the tomb of the Sheikh (shaihai) inside the Hui Muslim cemetery on Meifeng Road. The Fuzhou Museum displays three Song and Yuan dynasty tombstone carvings from Quanzhou. I had lunch at the famous Turkish restaurant Aladdin, then returned to Fuzhou Mosque for Jumu'ah prayer. See "Jumu'ah in Fuzhou: Fuzhou Mosque, Sheikh Tomb, Song and Yuan Stone Carvings, and a Turkish Restaurant."
I went to Qingjing Mosque in Quanzhou for Zuhr prayer. Imam Ma of Qingjing Mosque is from Hualong, Qinghai. During the day, he leads prayers in the main hall donated by Oman, and after the tourist area closes, he leads prayers in the smaller Mingshan Hall. The next morning, I continued exploring Qingjing Mosque. See "The Thousand-Year-Old Qingjing Mosque in Quanzhou."
Lingshan Holy Tomb is in the east of Quanzhou city, also known as the Tomb of the Three and Four Sages. The holy tomb currently has two granite graves divided into three layers, with lotus petal carvings on the bottom layer. In 1958, when the Fuzhou-Xiamen highway outside the East Gate of Quanzhou was widened, several Song and Yuan dynasty Muslim pedestal-style tomb stones by the road were moved next to the Lingshan Holy Tomb. Next to the Lingshan Holy Tomb is the cemetery for local Quanzhou Hui Muslims. The Ge, Ma, and Huang families are descendants of the generations of imams who served at Qingjing Mosque. A large section of the Lingshan Sacred Tomb scenic area is dedicated to the Ding family cemetery from Chendai. See "Lingshan Holy Tomb in Quanzhou."
At noon, I took a taxi south of Quanzhou to Chendai Mosque for Asr prayer and visited the Chendai Hui Muslim History Museum located inside the Ding Family Ancestral Hall. See "Chendai Mosque and the Chendai Hui Muslim History Museum in Quanzhou, Fujian."
In Quanzhou, besides the famous Baiqi Guo family of Hui Muslims, there is also a branch of the Jundong Guo family of Hui Muslims. Today, the Xingzhai Guo Family Ancestral Hall is a large Southern Fujian-style ancestral hall with three rows of buildings, two courtyards, and two side houses. It is a Quanzhou cultural heritage site and serves as the cultural activity center for the Xingzhai Hui Muslim Seniors Association. Inside the Guo Family Ancestral Hall in Xingzhai, there are several stone tablets, one of which is inscribed with 'Site of the Islamic Mosque'. See 'Echoes of the Faith: The Guo Family Mosque of the Hui Muslims in Xingzhai, Quanzhou'.
The Quanzhou Maritime Museum was built in 1959. In 2003, the Quanzhou Islamic Culture Exhibition Hall was completed, and in 2008, the 'Arabs and Persians in Quanzhou' exhibition officially opened, displaying over 200 stone carvings from the Song and Yuan dynasties related to the faith. See 'Song and Yuan Dynasty Islamic Stone Carvings in the Quanzhou Maritime Museum Collection'.
At noon, I visited the Xiamen Mosque and was very grateful to have braised noodles (huimian) made by Imam Liu. Inside the Xiamen Mosque, there are two stone tablets dating back to 1902 (the 28th year of the Guangxu reign) and 1924 (the 13th year of the Republic of China). I had dinner at the main branch of Ma'erlong in the evening. See '[2024 May Day Trip] Xiamen Mosque and Ma'erlong Xinjiang Cuisine'.
The Anthropology Museum of Xiamen University is the first university museum in the People's Republic of China, and it houses a large number of Song and Yuan dynasty Islamic stone carvings from Quanzhou. See 'Song and Yuan Dynasty Islamic Stone Carvings in the Xiamen University Anthropology Museum Collection'.
May: Chengdu, Dujiangyan, and Leshan, Sichuan.
I went to Chengdu for a business trip in May and stayed behind the Huangcheng Mosque. This time, I felt the area in front of the Huangcheng Mosque was much livelier than before, with many new restaurants opened. See 'The Huangcheng Mosque Neighborhood in Chengdu is Great for Exploring'.
Tuqiao is located in the northwest of Chengdu. Since the Qing Dynasty, it has been a necessary stop for merchants traveling to Chengdu from Aba and Songpan via the Songmao Ancient Road. Many Hui Muslims settled here, and during the reigns of Yongzheng and Qianlong, two mosques were built, known as the Tuqiao Lower Mosque and Upper Mosque. On the evening of May 16, I first bought half a smoked duck at Shunji Marinated Meats (Shunji Yanlu) in front of the Tuqiao Upper Mosque. Then, I bought a serving of braised beef offal (shao niuza) with rice at the nearby Dama Ge Beef Restaurant. After coming down from Hufutan, I had some spicy wontons (hongyou chaoshou) at the Old Street Restaurant in front of the Tuqiao Upper Mosque. Tuqiao is very lively in the morning, and a line formed in front of Shunji Marinated Meats. The Sichuan-style marinated meats here are really worth buying. After finishing breakfast, I visited the Tuqiao Hui Muslim Cemetery, which has a history of over 200 years. See 'Tasting Sichuan Delicacies in Tuqiao, Chengdu'.
On May 15, we set off from Chengdu to Dujiangyan and visited the Dujiangyan Mosque at noon. There are many halal restaurants around the Dujiangyan Mosque, where you can eat authentic traditional Hui Muslim dishes from western Sichuan. Huixiangyuan, located right next to the Dujiangyan Mosque, is a long-established restaurant that displays a traditional soup pot (tangping) sign. I had some chilled tofu pudding (bing douhua) at a small snack shop in Dujiangyan; it was soft and very refreshing. See "Ancient Mosques and Food in Dujiangyan, Sichuan."
We left Chengdu early on May 16 and arrived in Leshan after a two-hour drive, heading to the local restaurant Haishi Qiaojiao Beef for lunch. The restaurant is right across from the Leshan Giant Buddha, next to the old Leshan Port on the Min River. Haishi Qiaojiao Beef was founded by Imam Hai Weixiong. Imam Hai is from Qingliu Town in the Rongchang District of Chongqing. His ancestors moved to Sichuan from Hubei and Hunan during the Kangxi reign. In October 1989, he became the first imam of the Leshan Mosque after the policy was restored, serving until 1998 when he retired to go into business. Besides Haishi Qiaojiao Beef in Leshan, there is also Sulaimani Qiaojiao Beef on the Maluqiao Food Street at the foot of Mount Emei. The owners are Hui Muslims from Rong County, Zigong City. See "Eating Qiaojiao Beef in Leshan and Mount Emei, Sichuan."
June, Liaocheng and Linqing, Shandong
Seven years later, I visited the Dongguan Hui Muslim community in Liaocheng again. There are two mosques in Liaocheng Dongguan: the west one is commonly known as the Great Mosque (Da Libaisi), and the east one is called the Small Mosque (Xiao Libaisi). The "Great and Small Mosque Street District" in Liaocheng Dongguan is among the first batch of historical and cultural districts in Shandong Province and serves as an important historical witness to the Hui Muslim communities along the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal during the Ming and Qing dynasties. See "Revisiting the Great and Small Mosque Streets in Liaocheng Dongguan."
We took a train from Liaocheng to Linqing and went to Baoliang First Shop to eat a meat-filled pancake roll (bing juan rou). In the afternoon, we prayed the Dhuhr (lidigele) prayer at the North Mosque in Linqing, then went to the East Mosque across the street to pray the Asr (shamu) and Maghrib (hufutan) prayers. After the Asr prayer, we ate big bowls of food at Erliang Diguo Millet Porridge at the intersection of Xianfeng Road and Dazhong Road. After the Maghrib prayer, I rode my bike to the Linqing Women's Mosque to find Zainab. In the morning, we had breakfast at Kong Family Steamed Bowl (kouwan) at the Xianfeng Road intersection. After eating, we went to Xianfeng Road to have tofu brain (doufunao) and old tofu (lao doufu). At noon, we ate Wang Family Ten-Fragrance Noodles (shixiang mian) on Xinhua Road, then went to Hongguanying Mosque in Linxi County, Xingtai, Hebei, to pray the Dhuhr (pieshen) prayer. On the way back, we bought deep-stir-fried meat tenderloin (ganzha liji), meat-filled baked buns (rou huoshao), and smoked pigeon (xunge). See "The Ancient Canal City of Linqing, Shandong."
June: Shenyang, Xinmin, Dalian, Fuzhou, Fengcheng, Dandong, and Xinlitun in Liaoning.
I went to Liaoning for the Dragon Boat Festival holiday. I took a high-speed train from Beijing Chaoyang Station to Shenyang in the evening. The next morning, I went to the Lijiang Morning Market in Shenyang and had lamb soup, shaomai, and pan-fried meat pies (huitou) at Heige Lamb Soup. On the third morning, I visited the Bayi Morning Market in Shenyang again. Shenyang has so many morning markets, and every one of them is full of delicious food. After the market, I took a train from Shenyang Station to Xinmin to visit the Xinmin Mosque. At the halal restaurants around the Xinmin Mosque, you can see signs for the Jin, Bai, and Yang families. See "[Dragon Boat Festival Liaoning Trip] Visiting Shenyang Morning Markets and the Ancient Xinmin Mosque."
On the morning of June 8, I took a train from Shenyang to the ancient city of Fuzhou and had "Fuzhou old-style dishes" at the Qunfangyuan Restaurant near the Fuzhou city roundabout. After lunch, we went to the Fuzhou Mosque for namaz. The imam of the Fuzhou Mosque is from Mengcun, Cangzhou, Hebei. Hui Muslim homes in Fuzhou city. The old street has blue bricks and dark tiles, with Arabic calligraphy on the walls, keeping the look of the old days. There is a legendary halal food spot in Fuzhou city, which is my friend's family shop, Yin's sticky rice cake (jiangmi lianggao). In the afternoon, I took a high-speed train from Wafangdian West Station to Dalian North Station and had dinner at the long-established Ma's Dumpling Restaurant (Ma Jia Jiaozi Guan) in front of Dalian Railway Station. After dinner, I went to the Dalian Mosque on Beijing Street for namaz. The next morning, I left from Dalian Station for Qingdui, then took a taxi to the ancient town of Qingdui to visit the Qingdui Mosque. See "[Dragon Boat Festival Liaoning Trip] Dalian City, Fuzhou Ancient City, and Qingdui Ancient Town."
At noon on June 9, I took a train from Dalian to Fengcheng. At Wenbin Snack Bar, I had the Dandong-style stir-fried corn noodles (chao chazi), and also ordered corn grit eight-treasure porridge (dazhazi babaozhou) and a 6-yuan vegetable platter. After eating, I went to the Fengcheng Mosque for namaz. The imam of the Fengcheng Mosque is also from Cangzhou. In the afternoon, I took a train from Fengcheng to Dandong and visited the Dandong Mosque. The entrance to the mosque was very busy. In the afternoon, I had dinner at the long-established Jinlongge Restaurant in Dandong. They have a wide variety of traditional stir-fried dishes and seafood. See "[Dragon Boat Festival Liaoning Trip] Fengcheng Ancient Mosque and Dandong Food."
On the morning of June 10, I took a high-speed train from Liaoning's Xinmin North Station, arrived at Heishan North Station in 15 minutes, and then took a taxi to Xinlitun Town. I performed the afternoon prayer (peshin) at Xinlitun Mosque, where the imam, Ma, is from Cangzhou. There are many halal restaurants in Xinlitun, but many were closed for the Dragon Boat Festival. We bought beef jerky and smoked dried tofu (xungan doufu) at Wang Zijing Deli, and both were delicious! In the afternoon, we took a train from Xinlitun Railway Station to Fuxin South Station. We performed the late afternoon prayer (asr) and sunset prayer (maghrib) at Fuxin Mosque, then had dinner at Daijia Restaurant Huiweizhai near the mosque. Collapse Read »
Summary: This 2024 travel summary covers the first half of the year, including trips through Singapore, Malaysia, China, and other destinations with halal food and Muslim travel notes. It keeps the original route, dates, places, photographs, and food details as a clear English travel record.
January in Singapore.
I traveled to Singapore in January and tasted various halal Chinese dishes. I found prawn noodles (xia mian), Hakka stuffed tofu (niang doufu), Hong Kong-style dim sum, Hainanese chicken rice, and stir-fry tea house dishes run by Hui Muslims. See "Tasting Halal Chinese Food in Singapore."
I discovered a halal-certified Peranakan restaurant in Singapore called Old Nyonya Kitchen (Lao Niangre Xiaochu) on Joo Chiat Road. Also, in Bedok North Street in eastern Singapore, there is a 60-year-old shop called Lu Lin Nyonya Kueh. They have a shop in front and a factory in the back, selling all kinds of halal Nyonya cakes (kueh). See "Eating Nyonya Food in Singapore."
Singapore has a very strong Indian culture. Tamil people from the southeastern coast of India built the Al-Abrar Mosque and the Jamae Mosque in Chinatown, as well as the Nagore Dargah, a Sufi shrine (gongbei). Little India is the liveliest place in Singapore. The shophouses on both sides are filled with Indian shops. At the southern end, there is the Abdul Gafoor Mosque built by Tamils, and at the northern end, there is the Angullia Mosque built by Gujaratis. The Tekka Centre in Little India has a row of Indian food stalls, and there is also the Indian Heritage Centre that introduces Indian culture. Kampong Glam has many century-old Indian shops. Some specialize in roti prata (fei bing), and some were even favored by British governors. See "Experiencing Indian Muslim Culture in Singapore."
The Asian Civilisations Museum in Singapore originally focused on collecting crafts from Malays and other indigenous peoples of Southeast Asia. After the 1990s, it expanded its scope to collect items from West and South Asia, gradually becoming a museum that showcases the intersection of different Asian cultures and civilizations. See "Visiting the Asian Civilisations Museum in Singapore."
In Fort Canning Park, Singapore, there is the tomb of Sultan Iskandar Shah of Singapore, who is said to be the founder of the Malacca Sultanate. Archaeologists discovered thousands of 14th-century artifacts near the Sultan's tomb, many of which came from China and Java. At the foot of Mount Faber in southern Singapore, there is the tomb of Temenggong Abdul Rahman, one of the founders of modern Singapore, and his family. Kampong Glam in Singapore was originally the land of Sultan Hussein of Johor. The Sultan's family built the Sultan Mosque, the palace, and the Prime Minister's office here, and there is also a cemetery for the Sultan's family in the north. On the east side of Kampong Glam, there is the Hajjah Fatimah Mosque built by a Malay noblewoman. East of the Sultan's palace is the former site of a publishing house founded by members of the Sultan's family. Kampong Glam has several long-standing Padang rice (padang fan) restaurants that are well worth eating at. See "The Malays and the Early History of Singapore."
After Singapore was established as a free trade port in 1819, the Aljunied family from Yemen, who were doing business in Palembang, Sumatra, immediately came to Singapore and then established a spice and batik clothing trade network there. After that, other Arab merchants also came to Singapore to open shops, gradually forming Arab Street. We visited a batik and Nyonya clothing store opened by the Aljunied family in 1940, and bought traditional batik clothing at another batik shop opened by people of Yemeni descent. Another family from Yemen, the Alsagoff family, once dominated the spice trade in Singapore. They founded the oldest existing Islamic school (madrasa) in Singapore and built a shrine (gongbei) for a Yemeni Sufi sage in Singapore. See "Arab Merchants in Singapore."
Geylang Serai is located in the eastern part of Singapore. In the early 20th century, it became an important Malay community in Singapore. The Geylang Serai Market is the largest Malay market in Singapore, where you can taste various Malay delicacies. The nearby Haig Road Market and Food Centre also have many Malay delicacies. On the second floor of City Plaza near the Geylang River, you can find Singapore's last shop making handmade traditional caps (songkok). The Malay Heritage Centre is located next to the Geylang Serai Market. See "Visiting the Malay Market in Geylang Serai, Singapore."
January: Johor Bahru, Seremban, Klang, Ipoh, and Kuala Kangsar, Malaysia.
We went to Malaysia to eat various halal Chinese meals. In Johor Bahru, we ate at the Hainanese coffee shop Hua Mui and visited the Johor Bahru Chinese Heritage Museum. In Seremban, we ate at the halal Chinese restaurants Muhammad Kew and Mohd Chan. In Klang, we ate at the halal Chinese restaurants Yiqi Chichi and Rahmat Tan. In Ipoh, we ate at the famous halal Chinese restaurant Lau Kee, the halal Chinese stir-fry shop Gerai Ipoh Ipoh Aje, and stayed at the heritage shophouse hotel Sarang Paloh. In Kuala Kangsar, we ate at the old-school Hainanese coffee shop Yut Loy. See "Tasting Halal Chinese Food in Malaysia."
After the 14th century, the Minangkabau people living on Sumatra Island crossed the Strait of Malacca to settle in Negeri Sembilan on the Malay Peninsula. Today, you can experience Minangkabau culture at the Negeri Sembilan State Museum. On the hill to the east of Seremban Lake Garden is the Tuanku Ja'afar Royal Gallery. In the city center, there is the century-old Jamek Mosque and the famous long-standing shop Haji Shariff's Cendol. See "Negeri Sembilan: The Settlement of the Minangkabau People in Malaysia."
Kuala Kangsar is located in Perak, Malaysia. It has been the royal city of the Sultan of Perak since the 18th century, where you can feel the authentic Malay village (kampung) atmosphere. On Friday, we visited the night market at the Kuala Kangsar Market and tasted various Malay snacks. The core area of the Perak Sultan's royal city is on Bukit Chandan hill. It features the Istana Hulu built in 1898 (currently closed), the Ubudiah Mosque built in 1913, the Perak Royal Mausoleum built in 1915, the Perak Prince's wooden house built in 1912, the bamboo-walled Istana Kenangan built in 1926, and the Istana Iskandariah built in 1933 (not open to the public). See "The Royal City of the Perak Sultan and the Lively Malay Night Market."
Ipoh is located in Perak, Malaysia, and is known as the "City of Tin." In the late 19th century, many South Indian Tamils came to Ipoh to make a living, and the Ipoh Indian Mosque was built in 1908. Some North Indian Pathans (Pashtun descent) and Punjabis also came to Ipoh to work as police officers, and they built the Pakistan Mosque in Ipoh's Little India in 1930. In Ipoh's old town, we ate at a Tamil mamak stall that has been serving rice with curry (nasi kandar) for over 50 years, and we also had durian shaved ice (cendol) in the old town. The center for Malay people in Ipoh is the Panglima Kinta Mosque, built in 1898 by the Kinta River. See "Indian and Malay Mosques in Ipoh, Malaysia."
The Muhammadiah Mosque in Tasek, in the northern suburbs of Ipoh, was rebuilt under the leadership of the Ipoh branch of the Malaysian Chinese Muslim Association. It is the first mosque in Malaysia with a purely Chinese architectural style, and you can see Chinese characters everywhere inside. I performed the Friday prayer (namaz) at the mosque and met Dato' Sheikh Abdul Rahman, the chairman of the Ipoh branch of the Chinese Muslim Association. See "Performing Friday Prayer at a Chinese Mosque in Malaysia."
In 1889, Sultan Abu Bakar of Johor officially moved the royal capital to Johor Bahru. The Sultan Abu Bakar Mosque is a mosque in Malaysia with a very distinct Victorian style. The Mahmoodiah Royal Mausoleum is the royal burial ground for the Sultans of Johor, and it also uses Victorian architectural style. The Pasir Pelangi Royal Mosque is located next to the Pasir Pelangi Palace of the Sultan of Johor, and the entire structure is in a neoclassical style. The Johor Art Gallery has many works by Johor artists, and there is a young man on-site to guide you through the experience of traditional tie-dyeing. There are traditional Johor Malay buildings in the courtyard where you can change into traditional clothes for photos. On Jalan Dhoby in the old town of Johor Bahru, there is a traditional Indian bakery that has been open for over 80 years, and there is also an Indian mosque nearby. See "The Royal City of the Temenggong Dynasty of the Johor Sultanate—Johor Bahru."
On Jalan Tan Hiok Nee, a street with century-old arcade buildings in the old town of Johor Bahru, you will find Nyonya Dynasty, the first Nyonya restaurant in Johor state to receive halal certification. There are three halal Nyonya restaurants in the NU Sentral mall opposite KL Sentral in Kuala Lumpur, and this time we ate at the largest of the three, Peranakan Place. See "Eating Nyonya Cuisine in Johor Bahru and Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia."
Selangor is located on the west coast of the Malay Peninsula. After the 17th century, the Bugis people from Sulawesi Island entered Selangor as mercenaries and established the Sultanate of Selangor in the 18th century. In 1874, the Selangor royal city was destroyed in a civil war, and Sultan Abdul Samad moved the royal city to the foot of Jugra Hill inside the mouth of the Selangor River. Today, two historical buildings, the Alaeddin Palace and the Alaeddin Mosque, are still preserved here. The Sultan also built the Alam Shah Palace in Klang. The Sultan Sulaiman Royal Mosque, which is right next to the palace, uses Art Deco style. The Sultan Abdul Aziz Royal Gallery is located in the center of the old town of Klang. The arcade area of Klang's old town has a lively Little India neighborhood, and the Indian mosque is a landmark building. See "The Royal City of the Sultan of Selangor—Jugra, Klang."
February, Urumqi.
Hotan Street is a famous food street in Urumqi. We ate the Kashgar Yibazhua (a type of meat bun) that had the longest line on Hotan Second Street, drank pigeon soup, bought traditional Uyghur pastries, and ate roasted goose eggs, handmade yogurt, and Yangle spicy chicken. There are also many Kazakh restaurants on Hotan Street. We ate horse sausage narin (a traditional meat and noodle dish) and milk tea at the Sai Gulu Ke restaurant, and had a Kazakh breakfast at Baoersake. I also bought an old-fashioned poplar wood sapayi (a traditional percussion instrument) at the Duoluozhe Ethnic Musical Instrument Store in Erdaoqiao, and bought usma (a plant-based eyebrow pencil) on the street. We walked around the Tianshan Vanke mall, which has many Uyghur restaurants and even a restaurant specifically for children's supplementary food. See "Hotan Street, Erdaoqiao, and Tianshan Vanke in Urumqi."
Although I was busy with night prayers during this return to Urumqi, I still found time to visit two small Hui Muslim eateries. The first one is Zainab's childhood treasure restaurant—Heping Bridge Dumpling Restaurant. Their place is a rare, old-school Hui Muslim sour soup dumpling shop in Urumqi. The second place is Xinshenghua Meatball Soup (wanzi tang) for Hui Muslims in Changji. The environment is very nice, the kitchen is open for everyone to see, and the food tastes great. See "Sharing Two Hui Muslim Eateries I Visited in Urumqi This Time."
I went to the Dawan Gongbei in Urumqi to attend the funeral (maitai) for an elder from the Luyuan Street community. After the funeral, I visited the two sages at the Dawan Gongbei. The first is the elder from Weijiapu, the first imam (ahong) to start formal religious education in Urumqi. The second is Imam Ma Zongfu, the leader of the Beiliang Mosque and Beifang Mosque in Urumqi, known to everyone as Elder Datong. See "Visiting the Dawan Gongbei in Urumqi."
March, Wuhan
I returned to Wuhan ten years after graduation. At night, I ate at Diaohuzi Hui Muslim Barbecue in Erqi, Jiang'an. In the morning, I prayed (namaz) at the Jiang'an Mosque. At Chengliji, I caught some freshly fried beef meatballs (niurou yuanzi). At the Yixiangzhai food shop nearby, I bought peanut brittle (huasheng su) and ginger candy (jiangzhi zatang). On the side road of Erqi, I ate three-ingredient noodles and beef mixed noodles at the Halal Shuangbao Red Oil Beef series shop. At noon, I ate Ma's hot dry noodles (reganmian) on Liangdao Street in Wuchang and taro cheese bricks at the Halal Red Brick Wall shop. In the evening, I went to the Yizhiwei Restaurant on Bayi Road to eat Halal Hubei cuisine. See "Returning to Wuhan Ten Years After Graduation (Part 1): Jiang'an Mosque, Central China Normal University, and Wuchang Food."
Early in the morning, I went to the Ma Si Baba Gongbei on Huquan Street to pay my respects. In the afternoon, I drank sand-boiled coffee and ate baklava at a Turkish cafe in Tongxingli, Hankou. In the afternoon, I went to the Fatumei Restaurant on Huangxing Road to eat beef spring rolls, stir-fried beef tripe, and shredded dry-fried beef. See "Returning to Wuhan Ten Years After Graduation (Part 2): Ma Si Baba Gongbei, Turkish Coffee, and Fatumei Restaurant."
March, Hexiwu, Wuqing, Tianjin
I went back to my hometown with my family in Hexiwu Town, Wuqing District, Tianjin. Because it was a key hub for water transport, Hexiwu Town had many Hui Muslim merchants during the Ming and Qing dynasties. There was a Hui Muslim camp southwest of the town, and the Hexiwu Mosque was first built in the early years of the Yongle reign of the Ming Dynasty. After leaving the mosque, we bought the local specialty golden-rimmed braised meat (jinbian koumen) at the Xinpengzhai Restaurant. Then we went to the "First Post Station Snack Street" inside the Hexiwu Farmers' Market. The most famous item there is the yellow rice fried cake (huangmi zhagao) from the century-old Wangji Lirenzhai. Also, the crispy fried dough pockets (gezhe he) of Hexiwu are very famous. See "My Hometown—Hexiwu Town, Wuqing, Tianjin."
May, Yiwu and Lishui, Zhejiang
After four years, we visited Yiwu again. After travel restrictions were lifted, Yiwu became busy again. People from countries in the Middle East and Africa all came to Yiwu to buy goods, and many new Middle Eastern restaurants opened, especially in the Binwang business district. This time, we chose a few of the newly opened restaurants to try. See "Many New Middle Eastern Restaurants Have Opened in Yiwu."
On the afternoon of May 2, I took the high-speed train from Yiwu to Lishui to visit Lishui Mosque. Lishui Mosque has two sections, featuring two gate towers, a front hall, connecting corridors, and a main hall, all in a distinct local Lishui style. The gate towers are the most unique part and are listed as a Lishui City cultural heritage site. See "Visiting Lishui Mosque in Zhejiang."
In May, I visited Fuzhou, Quanzhou, and Xiamen in Fujian.
I visited Fuzhou Mosque at Nanmendou and went to pay my respects at the tomb of the Sheikh (shaihai) inside the Hui Muslim cemetery on Meifeng Road. The Fuzhou Museum displays three Song and Yuan dynasty tombstone carvings from Quanzhou. I had lunch at the famous Turkish restaurant Aladdin, then returned to Fuzhou Mosque for Jumu'ah prayer. See "Jumu'ah in Fuzhou: Fuzhou Mosque, Sheikh Tomb, Song and Yuan Stone Carvings, and a Turkish Restaurant."
I went to Qingjing Mosque in Quanzhou for Zuhr prayer. Imam Ma of Qingjing Mosque is from Hualong, Qinghai. During the day, he leads prayers in the main hall donated by Oman, and after the tourist area closes, he leads prayers in the smaller Mingshan Hall. The next morning, I continued exploring Qingjing Mosque. See "The Thousand-Year-Old Qingjing Mosque in Quanzhou."
Lingshan Holy Tomb is in the east of Quanzhou city, also known as the Tomb of the Three and Four Sages. The holy tomb currently has two granite graves divided into three layers, with lotus petal carvings on the bottom layer. In 1958, when the Fuzhou-Xiamen highway outside the East Gate of Quanzhou was widened, several Song and Yuan dynasty Muslim pedestal-style tomb stones by the road were moved next to the Lingshan Holy Tomb. Next to the Lingshan Holy Tomb is the cemetery for local Quanzhou Hui Muslims. The Ge, Ma, and Huang families are descendants of the generations of imams who served at Qingjing Mosque. A large section of the Lingshan Sacred Tomb scenic area is dedicated to the Ding family cemetery from Chendai. See "Lingshan Holy Tomb in Quanzhou."
At noon, I took a taxi south of Quanzhou to Chendai Mosque for Asr prayer and visited the Chendai Hui Muslim History Museum located inside the Ding Family Ancestral Hall. See "Chendai Mosque and the Chendai Hui Muslim History Museum in Quanzhou, Fujian."
In Quanzhou, besides the famous Baiqi Guo family of Hui Muslims, there is also a branch of the Jundong Guo family of Hui Muslims. Today, the Xingzhai Guo Family Ancestral Hall is a large Southern Fujian-style ancestral hall with three rows of buildings, two courtyards, and two side houses. It is a Quanzhou cultural heritage site and serves as the cultural activity center for the Xingzhai Hui Muslim Seniors Association. Inside the Guo Family Ancestral Hall in Xingzhai, there are several stone tablets, one of which is inscribed with 'Site of the Islamic Mosque'. See 'Echoes of the Faith: The Guo Family Mosque of the Hui Muslims in Xingzhai, Quanzhou'.
The Quanzhou Maritime Museum was built in 1959. In 2003, the Quanzhou Islamic Culture Exhibition Hall was completed, and in 2008, the 'Arabs and Persians in Quanzhou' exhibition officially opened, displaying over 200 stone carvings from the Song and Yuan dynasties related to the faith. See 'Song and Yuan Dynasty Islamic Stone Carvings in the Quanzhou Maritime Museum Collection'.
At noon, I visited the Xiamen Mosque and was very grateful to have braised noodles (huimian) made by Imam Liu. Inside the Xiamen Mosque, there are two stone tablets dating back to 1902 (the 28th year of the Guangxu reign) and 1924 (the 13th year of the Republic of China). I had dinner at the main branch of Ma'erlong in the evening. See '[2024 May Day Trip] Xiamen Mosque and Ma'erlong Xinjiang Cuisine'.
The Anthropology Museum of Xiamen University is the first university museum in the People's Republic of China, and it houses a large number of Song and Yuan dynasty Islamic stone carvings from Quanzhou. See 'Song and Yuan Dynasty Islamic Stone Carvings in the Xiamen University Anthropology Museum Collection'.
May: Chengdu, Dujiangyan, and Leshan, Sichuan.
I went to Chengdu for a business trip in May and stayed behind the Huangcheng Mosque. This time, I felt the area in front of the Huangcheng Mosque was much livelier than before, with many new restaurants opened. See 'The Huangcheng Mosque Neighborhood in Chengdu is Great for Exploring'.
Tuqiao is located in the northwest of Chengdu. Since the Qing Dynasty, it has been a necessary stop for merchants traveling to Chengdu from Aba and Songpan via the Songmao Ancient Road. Many Hui Muslims settled here, and during the reigns of Yongzheng and Qianlong, two mosques were built, known as the Tuqiao Lower Mosque and Upper Mosque. On the evening of May 16, I first bought half a smoked duck at Shunji Marinated Meats (Shunji Yanlu) in front of the Tuqiao Upper Mosque. Then, I bought a serving of braised beef offal (shao niuza) with rice at the nearby Dama Ge Beef Restaurant. After coming down from Hufutan, I had some spicy wontons (hongyou chaoshou) at the Old Street Restaurant in front of the Tuqiao Upper Mosque. Tuqiao is very lively in the morning, and a line formed in front of Shunji Marinated Meats. The Sichuan-style marinated meats here are really worth buying. After finishing breakfast, I visited the Tuqiao Hui Muslim Cemetery, which has a history of over 200 years. See 'Tasting Sichuan Delicacies in Tuqiao, Chengdu'.
On May 15, we set off from Chengdu to Dujiangyan and visited the Dujiangyan Mosque at noon. There are many halal restaurants around the Dujiangyan Mosque, where you can eat authentic traditional Hui Muslim dishes from western Sichuan. Huixiangyuan, located right next to the Dujiangyan Mosque, is a long-established restaurant that displays a traditional soup pot (tangping) sign. I had some chilled tofu pudding (bing douhua) at a small snack shop in Dujiangyan; it was soft and very refreshing. See "Ancient Mosques and Food in Dujiangyan, Sichuan."
We left Chengdu early on May 16 and arrived in Leshan after a two-hour drive, heading to the local restaurant Haishi Qiaojiao Beef for lunch. The restaurant is right across from the Leshan Giant Buddha, next to the old Leshan Port on the Min River. Haishi Qiaojiao Beef was founded by Imam Hai Weixiong. Imam Hai is from Qingliu Town in the Rongchang District of Chongqing. His ancestors moved to Sichuan from Hubei and Hunan during the Kangxi reign. In October 1989, he became the first imam of the Leshan Mosque after the policy was restored, serving until 1998 when he retired to go into business. Besides Haishi Qiaojiao Beef in Leshan, there is also Sulaimani Qiaojiao Beef on the Maluqiao Food Street at the foot of Mount Emei. The owners are Hui Muslims from Rong County, Zigong City. See "Eating Qiaojiao Beef in Leshan and Mount Emei, Sichuan."
June, Liaocheng and Linqing, Shandong
Seven years later, I visited the Dongguan Hui Muslim community in Liaocheng again. There are two mosques in Liaocheng Dongguan: the west one is commonly known as the Great Mosque (Da Libaisi), and the east one is called the Small Mosque (Xiao Libaisi). The "Great and Small Mosque Street District" in Liaocheng Dongguan is among the first batch of historical and cultural districts in Shandong Province and serves as an important historical witness to the Hui Muslim communities along the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal during the Ming and Qing dynasties. See "Revisiting the Great and Small Mosque Streets in Liaocheng Dongguan."
We took a train from Liaocheng to Linqing and went to Baoliang First Shop to eat a meat-filled pancake roll (bing juan rou). In the afternoon, we prayed the Dhuhr (lidigele) prayer at the North Mosque in Linqing, then went to the East Mosque across the street to pray the Asr (shamu) and Maghrib (hufutan) prayers. After the Asr prayer, we ate big bowls of food at Erliang Diguo Millet Porridge at the intersection of Xianfeng Road and Dazhong Road. After the Maghrib prayer, I rode my bike to the Linqing Women's Mosque to find Zainab. In the morning, we had breakfast at Kong Family Steamed Bowl (kouwan) at the Xianfeng Road intersection. After eating, we went to Xianfeng Road to have tofu brain (doufunao) and old tofu (lao doufu). At noon, we ate Wang Family Ten-Fragrance Noodles (shixiang mian) on Xinhua Road, then went to Hongguanying Mosque in Linxi County, Xingtai, Hebei, to pray the Dhuhr (pieshen) prayer. On the way back, we bought deep-stir-fried meat tenderloin (ganzha liji), meat-filled baked buns (rou huoshao), and smoked pigeon (xunge). See "The Ancient Canal City of Linqing, Shandong."
June: Shenyang, Xinmin, Dalian, Fuzhou, Fengcheng, Dandong, and Xinlitun in Liaoning.
I went to Liaoning for the Dragon Boat Festival holiday. I took a high-speed train from Beijing Chaoyang Station to Shenyang in the evening. The next morning, I went to the Lijiang Morning Market in Shenyang and had lamb soup, shaomai, and pan-fried meat pies (huitou) at Heige Lamb Soup. On the third morning, I visited the Bayi Morning Market in Shenyang again. Shenyang has so many morning markets, and every one of them is full of delicious food. After the market, I took a train from Shenyang Station to Xinmin to visit the Xinmin Mosque. At the halal restaurants around the Xinmin Mosque, you can see signs for the Jin, Bai, and Yang families. See "[Dragon Boat Festival Liaoning Trip] Visiting Shenyang Morning Markets and the Ancient Xinmin Mosque."
On the morning of June 8, I took a train from Shenyang to the ancient city of Fuzhou and had "Fuzhou old-style dishes" at the Qunfangyuan Restaurant near the Fuzhou city roundabout. After lunch, we went to the Fuzhou Mosque for namaz. The imam of the Fuzhou Mosque is from Mengcun, Cangzhou, Hebei. Hui Muslim homes in Fuzhou city. The old street has blue bricks and dark tiles, with Arabic calligraphy on the walls, keeping the look of the old days. There is a legendary halal food spot in Fuzhou city, which is my friend's family shop, Yin's sticky rice cake (jiangmi lianggao). In the afternoon, I took a high-speed train from Wafangdian West Station to Dalian North Station and had dinner at the long-established Ma's Dumpling Restaurant (Ma Jia Jiaozi Guan) in front of Dalian Railway Station. After dinner, I went to the Dalian Mosque on Beijing Street for namaz. The next morning, I left from Dalian Station for Qingdui, then took a taxi to the ancient town of Qingdui to visit the Qingdui Mosque. See "[Dragon Boat Festival Liaoning Trip] Dalian City, Fuzhou Ancient City, and Qingdui Ancient Town."
At noon on June 9, I took a train from Dalian to Fengcheng. At Wenbin Snack Bar, I had the Dandong-style stir-fried corn noodles (chao chazi), and also ordered corn grit eight-treasure porridge (dazhazi babaozhou) and a 6-yuan vegetable platter. After eating, I went to the Fengcheng Mosque for namaz. The imam of the Fengcheng Mosque is also from Cangzhou. In the afternoon, I took a train from Fengcheng to Dandong and visited the Dandong Mosque. The entrance to the mosque was very busy. In the afternoon, I had dinner at the long-established Jinlongge Restaurant in Dandong. They have a wide variety of traditional stir-fried dishes and seafood. See "[Dragon Boat Festival Liaoning Trip] Fengcheng Ancient Mosque and Dandong Food."
On the morning of June 10, I took a high-speed train from Liaoning's Xinmin North Station, arrived at Heishan North Station in 15 minutes, and then took a taxi to Xinlitun Town. I performed the afternoon prayer (peshin) at Xinlitun Mosque, where the imam, Ma, is from Cangzhou. There are many halal restaurants in Xinlitun, but many were closed for the Dragon Boat Festival. We bought beef jerky and smoked dried tofu (xungan doufu) at Wang Zijing Deli, and both were delicious! In the afternoon, we took a train from Xinlitun Railway Station to Fuxin South Station. We performed the late afternoon prayer (asr) and sunset prayer (maghrib) at Fuxin Mosque, then had dinner at Daijia Restaurant Huiweizhai near the mosque. Collapse Read »
Travel Guide: Malacca Malay Wooden Houses and Historic Sites (Part 1)
Reposted from the web
Summary: This first part introduces Malay wooden houses and historic sites in Malacca, with attention to old homes, local architecture, and neighborhood history. It keeps the original place names, photographs, building details, and travel notes for readers interested in Malaysian heritage.
The beautiful and peaceful Malay village of Kampung Morten.
In the northern part of Malacca city sits a beautiful and peaceful Malay village called Kampung Morten. This area was once a mangrove swamp on a bend of the Malacca River, filled with mud crabs. In 1920, the nearby Kampung Jawa was forced to relocate due to land development. The village head, Dato' Othman Mohd Noh, asked the British Land Commissioner at the time, Frederick Joseph Morten, for help. Morten applied for a 10,000 Straits dollar loan from the government that same year, which was then used under Dato' Othman's leadership to buy land and build the village. The village was officially completed in 1922, and the villagers voted to name it Kampung Morten.
Today, Kampung Morten preserves 56 traditional Malay stilt houses and was listed as a heritage village in 1998. After a century of urban growth, the area is now part of downtown Malacca, making it the most convenient place in the city to experience the atmosphere of a Malay kampung.









I encountered a Malay wedding in Kampung Morten where whole families came to eat together, which was very lively.






At a beautiful Malay house in Kampung Morten, the grandfather who owns the home chatted with us very warmly.








The village has a small mosque called Surau Al Abidin with a cute pink exterior.


Several shops in the village serve traditional Malay kampung food, but they do not open until 5:30 in the evening. Some shops set their tables and chairs along the Malacca River, which is very pleasant.


The most worth-visiting Malay wooden house in Kampung Morten is Villa Sentosa, built in 1922 by Haji Hashim Abdul Ghani, who helped build the village. Haji Hashim's descendants still live here today, and they have kept many pieces of furniture and household items that are decades or even a century old. However, the opening hours are not fixed. If the owner is out, at prayer, or taking a nap, the house is closed. We were sorry to find the owner away when we visited, so we could only look around from the outside.









The ancient Malay village of Kampung Ketek.
Behind the Cheng Hoon Teng Temple, the oldest Chinese temple in the old town of Malacca, lies the equally ancient Malay village of Kampung Ketek. Kampung Ketek formed during the Dutch era in the 17th century. Although Malay villages within the old city of Malacca shrank rapidly after the 19th century due to the construction of shophouses, you can still see several well-preserved traditional Malay stilt houses in Kampung Ketek today. Abdullah bin Abdul al Kadir (1796-1854), known as the Father of Modern Malay Literature, was born here.








Inside Kampung Ketek, you can see the tomb of Syed Syamsuddin Ibni Al Sumatrani, a famous scholar and national hero from the Aceh Sultanate in the 16th and 17th centuries.
Syamsuddin was a mufti (legal judge) and advisor to Sultan Iskandar Muda (reigned 1607-36) of the Aceh Sultanate in northern Sumatra. He was well-versed in religious knowledge and held a high position in the Sultan's court.
After the Portuguese occupied Malacca in 1511, the Aceh Sultanate kept attacking the Portuguese in an attempt to capture the city. During the reign of Sultan Iskandar Muda, the Aceh Sultanate was strong and powerful, with a fleet of heavy galleys, cavalry riding Persian horses, elephant corps, and thousands of cannons. In 1629, Sultan Iskandar sent a massive force of 236 warships and 19,000 men to Malacca, but they suffered a total defeat, with all soldiers killed or captured. Sang Sutin also died heroically in this battle and was eventually buried in Kampung Kuli in the old city of Malacca.





Two tombs of heroes from the Malacca Sultanate
Continuing south from Kampung Hulu Road, you enter the core area of the Malacca old city, a World Heritage site where the alleys are filled with murals related to the city's history.








The Tomb of Hang Jebat (Makam Hang Jebat) in the old city of Malacca features the Aceh style from northern Sumatra, which was the common high-status architectural style for tombs during the Malacca Sultanate.
Hang Jebat was a famous Malay hero during the 15th-century Malacca Sultanate and one of the five heroes in the classic Malay novel Hikayat Hang Tuah. In the novel, the five heroes study martial arts together, serve the Malacca Sultan together, and earn his favor. Later, the Sultan of Malacca listens to slander and wants to kill Hang Tuah, so his brother Hang Jebat rebels against the Sultan to seek revenge. Eventually, the Sultan pardons Hang Tuah and sends him to fight a duel with Hang Jebat. After seven days of fighting, Hang Jebat dies in the arms of his former brother.
Since the 1960s, Hang Jebat has been portrayed in various plays and novels as a folk hero who resists tyranny and yearns for freedom, and many roads and buildings in Malaysia and Singapore are named after him.





Walking further west, you can see the tomb of Hang Kasturi, another of the five heroes of the Malacca Sultanate. In the Malay Annals (Sejarah Melayu), it is Hang Kasturi, not Hang Tuah, who ultimately kills Hang Jebat. This tomb has an Indian style and was likely built by later generations to commemorate Hang Kasturi.




Tomb of Sultan Hussein Shah of Johor
In the backyard of the Kampung Kling Mosque (Masjid Kampung Kling) lies the tomb of Sultan Hussein Shah of Johor (reigned 1819–1835), who played a key role in the founding of Singapore.
After the Portuguese occupied Malacca in 1511, the Sultan of Malacca fled to Johor to continue his rule. After the last Sultan of Malacca died in 1528, his son Alauddin Riayat Shah II officially established the Johor Sultanate, considering it the legitimate continuation of the Malacca Sultanate.
Hussein Shah was born in 1776 and was the eldest son of Sultan Mahmud Shah III of Johor. When Mahmud Shah III passed away in 1812, Hussein Shah was not in the capital, so his younger brother quickly took the throne with the support of ministers, forcing Hussein Shah into exile in the Riau Islands.
In 1819, the British East India Company decided to establish a new base in Southeast Asia. They found the exiled Hussein Shah and named him Sultan of Johor and Singapore in exchange for the right to establish a trading post in Singapore. Hussein Shah then came to Singapore and became a Sultan under British control.
In 1824, the British bought Singapore for 33,200 dollars, and Sultan Hussein Shah received a monthly payment of 1,300 dollars. He held no real power in Singapore and served only a symbolic role.
Sultan Hussein Shah lived in Singapore until 1834, then moved to Malacca with his family. He passed away in Malacca in 1835 and was buried at the Kampung Hulu Mosque (Dongjiena Si).







The Sultan's Well in Malacca
Travel east from the old town of Malacca to the foot of Bukit Cina, and you will find the Sultan's Well (Perigi Raja). Legend says it was built in 1459 by the sixth Sultan of Malacca, Mansur Shah, who reigned from 1459 to 1477.
According to the classic Malay text Sejarah Melayu, Sultan Mansur Shah built a palace at the foot of Bukit Cina to welcome a Ming Dynasty princess named Hang Li Po. He had this well dug specifically for her, which is why it is also called Hang Li Po's Well. However, there are no records of Princess Hang Li Po in Ming Dynasty or Portuguese documents, so her true identity remains a mystery.
Another theory suggests the well was dug by Zheng He's troops when they were stationed in Malacca during his voyages to the Western Ocean. Legend says Zheng He's troops dug seven wells at the foot of Bukit Cina. Five were destroyed by road construction in the 1950s and 1960s. Only two remain today: the Sultan's Well and the Sam Po Well (Sanbao Jing) in the backyard of the Poh San Teng Temple.
Legend has it that when the Portuguese invaded the Malacca Sultanate in 1511, Malay warriors poisoned the well to kill many Portuguese soldiers. In the early 17th century, both the Dutch and the Acehnese used the tactic of poisoning the well to eliminate their enemies.
After the Dutch occupied Malacca in 1641, they built a fortress-style wall around the Sultan's Well to protect the water source, complete with guard posts and cannons. The well was abandoned during the British colonial period, and the guard posts fell into disrepair.








On the western slope of Bukit Cina lies a Malay village called Kampung Bukit Cina, where some traditional Malay stilt houses are still preserved.



The Hero's Well in Malacca
Hang Tuah's Well (Perigi Hang Tuah) is located in Kampung Duyong in eastern Malacca. It is said to have been dug by the Malacca Sultanate hero Hang Tuah and has never run dry. Malay people believe the well water has magical properties and can cure illnesses and ward off misfortune, making it a famous attraction in Malacca.









The traditional Malay wooden house next to Hang Tuah's Well was first built in 1946. It was moved to its current site in 2001 after the original land was acquired. The owner, Samad Nordin, was originally a woodcarver, so he is skilled at maintaining wood. He performs maintenance on the house every five years.










Inside the house hang portraits of the Nuh ship and the Nine Saints (Wali Sanga) who brought the faith to Southeast Asia. Wali refers to the Sufi saints. These nine figures came to Java 500 years ago to preach, which helped the faith gradually spread across Southeast Asia.








Small Mosque in the Center of Malacca's Old Town
This small, newly built mosque in the center of Malacca's old town faces the Dutch Square and backs onto the Malacca River. The roof retains a traditional Javanese style. Inside the main hall, there are displays introducing various ancient mosques in Malacca, and a traditional drum used for the call to prayer sits in the center. Performing namaz in the mosque while feeling the breeze from the Malacca River brings a sense of calm, as if the noise outside no longer matters.






Malacca History Museum
A replica of the mythical bird boat (Perahu Burung Petalawati) is kept in the Malacca History Museum. The Perahu Burung Petalawati was a mythical bird boat used by Kelantan nobles for parades during circumcision ceremonies. After 1933, all of them were destroyed because they were seen as straying from the faith. Later, the tradition was preserved by the Malay community in Pattani, Thailand, though the celebrations are much smaller now.
The origins of this mythical bird go back to ancient Malay legends and Indian culture. It was likely influenced by the giant bird in the Malay epic Isma Dewa and the mythical bird Garuda from Indian mythology.


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Summary: This first part introduces Malay wooden houses and historic sites in Malacca, with attention to old homes, local architecture, and neighborhood history. It keeps the original place names, photographs, building details, and travel notes for readers interested in Malaysian heritage.
The beautiful and peaceful Malay village of Kampung Morten.
In the northern part of Malacca city sits a beautiful and peaceful Malay village called Kampung Morten. This area was once a mangrove swamp on a bend of the Malacca River, filled with mud crabs. In 1920, the nearby Kampung Jawa was forced to relocate due to land development. The village head, Dato' Othman Mohd Noh, asked the British Land Commissioner at the time, Frederick Joseph Morten, for help. Morten applied for a 10,000 Straits dollar loan from the government that same year, which was then used under Dato' Othman's leadership to buy land and build the village. The village was officially completed in 1922, and the villagers voted to name it Kampung Morten.
Today, Kampung Morten preserves 56 traditional Malay stilt houses and was listed as a heritage village in 1998. After a century of urban growth, the area is now part of downtown Malacca, making it the most convenient place in the city to experience the atmosphere of a Malay kampung.









I encountered a Malay wedding in Kampung Morten where whole families came to eat together, which was very lively.






At a beautiful Malay house in Kampung Morten, the grandfather who owns the home chatted with us very warmly.








The village has a small mosque called Surau Al Abidin with a cute pink exterior.


Several shops in the village serve traditional Malay kampung food, but they do not open until 5:30 in the evening. Some shops set their tables and chairs along the Malacca River, which is very pleasant.


The most worth-visiting Malay wooden house in Kampung Morten is Villa Sentosa, built in 1922 by Haji Hashim Abdul Ghani, who helped build the village. Haji Hashim's descendants still live here today, and they have kept many pieces of furniture and household items that are decades or even a century old. However, the opening hours are not fixed. If the owner is out, at prayer, or taking a nap, the house is closed. We were sorry to find the owner away when we visited, so we could only look around from the outside.









The ancient Malay village of Kampung Ketek.
Behind the Cheng Hoon Teng Temple, the oldest Chinese temple in the old town of Malacca, lies the equally ancient Malay village of Kampung Ketek. Kampung Ketek formed during the Dutch era in the 17th century. Although Malay villages within the old city of Malacca shrank rapidly after the 19th century due to the construction of shophouses, you can still see several well-preserved traditional Malay stilt houses in Kampung Ketek today. Abdullah bin Abdul al Kadir (1796-1854), known as the Father of Modern Malay Literature, was born here.








Inside Kampung Ketek, you can see the tomb of Syed Syamsuddin Ibni Al Sumatrani, a famous scholar and national hero from the Aceh Sultanate in the 16th and 17th centuries.
Syamsuddin was a mufti (legal judge) and advisor to Sultan Iskandar Muda (reigned 1607-36) of the Aceh Sultanate in northern Sumatra. He was well-versed in religious knowledge and held a high position in the Sultan's court.
After the Portuguese occupied Malacca in 1511, the Aceh Sultanate kept attacking the Portuguese in an attempt to capture the city. During the reign of Sultan Iskandar Muda, the Aceh Sultanate was strong and powerful, with a fleet of heavy galleys, cavalry riding Persian horses, elephant corps, and thousands of cannons. In 1629, Sultan Iskandar sent a massive force of 236 warships and 19,000 men to Malacca, but they suffered a total defeat, with all soldiers killed or captured. Sang Sutin also died heroically in this battle and was eventually buried in Kampung Kuli in the old city of Malacca.





Two tombs of heroes from the Malacca Sultanate
Continuing south from Kampung Hulu Road, you enter the core area of the Malacca old city, a World Heritage site where the alleys are filled with murals related to the city's history.








The Tomb of Hang Jebat (Makam Hang Jebat) in the old city of Malacca features the Aceh style from northern Sumatra, which was the common high-status architectural style for tombs during the Malacca Sultanate.
Hang Jebat was a famous Malay hero during the 15th-century Malacca Sultanate and one of the five heroes in the classic Malay novel Hikayat Hang Tuah. In the novel, the five heroes study martial arts together, serve the Malacca Sultan together, and earn his favor. Later, the Sultan of Malacca listens to slander and wants to kill Hang Tuah, so his brother Hang Jebat rebels against the Sultan to seek revenge. Eventually, the Sultan pardons Hang Tuah and sends him to fight a duel with Hang Jebat. After seven days of fighting, Hang Jebat dies in the arms of his former brother.
Since the 1960s, Hang Jebat has been portrayed in various plays and novels as a folk hero who resists tyranny and yearns for freedom, and many roads and buildings in Malaysia and Singapore are named after him.





Walking further west, you can see the tomb of Hang Kasturi, another of the five heroes of the Malacca Sultanate. In the Malay Annals (Sejarah Melayu), it is Hang Kasturi, not Hang Tuah, who ultimately kills Hang Jebat. This tomb has an Indian style and was likely built by later generations to commemorate Hang Kasturi.




Tomb of Sultan Hussein Shah of Johor
In the backyard of the Kampung Kling Mosque (Masjid Kampung Kling) lies the tomb of Sultan Hussein Shah of Johor (reigned 1819–1835), who played a key role in the founding of Singapore.
After the Portuguese occupied Malacca in 1511, the Sultan of Malacca fled to Johor to continue his rule. After the last Sultan of Malacca died in 1528, his son Alauddin Riayat Shah II officially established the Johor Sultanate, considering it the legitimate continuation of the Malacca Sultanate.
Hussein Shah was born in 1776 and was the eldest son of Sultan Mahmud Shah III of Johor. When Mahmud Shah III passed away in 1812, Hussein Shah was not in the capital, so his younger brother quickly took the throne with the support of ministers, forcing Hussein Shah into exile in the Riau Islands.
In 1819, the British East India Company decided to establish a new base in Southeast Asia. They found the exiled Hussein Shah and named him Sultan of Johor and Singapore in exchange for the right to establish a trading post in Singapore. Hussein Shah then came to Singapore and became a Sultan under British control.
In 1824, the British bought Singapore for 33,200 dollars, and Sultan Hussein Shah received a monthly payment of 1,300 dollars. He held no real power in Singapore and served only a symbolic role.
Sultan Hussein Shah lived in Singapore until 1834, then moved to Malacca with his family. He passed away in Malacca in 1835 and was buried at the Kampung Hulu Mosque (Dongjiena Si).







The Sultan's Well in Malacca
Travel east from the old town of Malacca to the foot of Bukit Cina, and you will find the Sultan's Well (Perigi Raja). Legend says it was built in 1459 by the sixth Sultan of Malacca, Mansur Shah, who reigned from 1459 to 1477.
According to the classic Malay text Sejarah Melayu, Sultan Mansur Shah built a palace at the foot of Bukit Cina to welcome a Ming Dynasty princess named Hang Li Po. He had this well dug specifically for her, which is why it is also called Hang Li Po's Well. However, there are no records of Princess Hang Li Po in Ming Dynasty or Portuguese documents, so her true identity remains a mystery.
Another theory suggests the well was dug by Zheng He's troops when they were stationed in Malacca during his voyages to the Western Ocean. Legend says Zheng He's troops dug seven wells at the foot of Bukit Cina. Five were destroyed by road construction in the 1950s and 1960s. Only two remain today: the Sultan's Well and the Sam Po Well (Sanbao Jing) in the backyard of the Poh San Teng Temple.
Legend has it that when the Portuguese invaded the Malacca Sultanate in 1511, Malay warriors poisoned the well to kill many Portuguese soldiers. In the early 17th century, both the Dutch and the Acehnese used the tactic of poisoning the well to eliminate their enemies.
After the Dutch occupied Malacca in 1641, they built a fortress-style wall around the Sultan's Well to protect the water source, complete with guard posts and cannons. The well was abandoned during the British colonial period, and the guard posts fell into disrepair.








On the western slope of Bukit Cina lies a Malay village called Kampung Bukit Cina, where some traditional Malay stilt houses are still preserved.



The Hero's Well in Malacca
Hang Tuah's Well (Perigi Hang Tuah) is located in Kampung Duyong in eastern Malacca. It is said to have been dug by the Malacca Sultanate hero Hang Tuah and has never run dry. Malay people believe the well water has magical properties and can cure illnesses and ward off misfortune, making it a famous attraction in Malacca.









The traditional Malay wooden house next to Hang Tuah's Well was first built in 1946. It was moved to its current site in 2001 after the original land was acquired. The owner, Samad Nordin, was originally a woodcarver, so he is skilled at maintaining wood. He performs maintenance on the house every five years.










Inside the house hang portraits of the Nuh ship and the Nine Saints (Wali Sanga) who brought the faith to Southeast Asia. Wali refers to the Sufi saints. These nine figures came to Java 500 years ago to preach, which helped the faith gradually spread across Southeast Asia.








Small Mosque in the Center of Malacca's Old Town
This small, newly built mosque in the center of Malacca's old town faces the Dutch Square and backs onto the Malacca River. The roof retains a traditional Javanese style. Inside the main hall, there are displays introducing various ancient mosques in Malacca, and a traditional drum used for the call to prayer sits in the center. Performing namaz in the mosque while feeling the breeze from the Malacca River brings a sense of calm, as if the noise outside no longer matters.






Malacca History Museum
A replica of the mythical bird boat (Perahu Burung Petalawati) is kept in the Malacca History Museum. The Perahu Burung Petalawati was a mythical bird boat used by Kelantan nobles for parades during circumcision ceremonies. After 1933, all of them were destroyed because they were seen as straying from the faith. Later, the tradition was preserved by the Malay community in Pattani, Thailand, though the celebrations are much smaller now.
The origins of this mythical bird go back to ancient Malay legends and Indian culture. It was likely influenced by the giant bird in the Malay epic Isma Dewa and the mythical bird Garuda from Indian mythology.


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Travel Guide: Malacca Malay Wooden Houses and Historic Sites (Part 2)
Reposted from the web
Summary: This second part continues through Malay wooden houses and historic sites in Malacca, focusing on house forms, museum displays, and old neighborhood details. It keeps the original place names, photographs, architectural notes, and cultural context for readers exploring Malacca heritage.

A traditional wooden box used by the Malays in Malacca to open coconuts.

Attire worn during traditional Malay wedding ceremonies in Malacca from the 1940s to the 1960s.

The tombstone of Mansur Shah, the sixth Sultan of Malacca (reigned 1459-77), held in the collection of the Malacca History Museum.
Sultan Mansur Shah began the golden age of the Malacca Sultanate, and he was known as a knowledgeable, fair, and pious ruler. He followed an expansionist policy, occupying many areas including the Malay Peninsula, eastern Sumatra, Singapore, and Bintan Island, and he helped spread the faith widely across the Malay Peninsula through marriage alliances.
During his reign, Sultan Mansur Shah lowered trade taxes, charging 6% to Arab and Indian merchants from the west, 3% to local merchants, and exempting merchants from China, Japan, and Java, which made trade in Malacca more prosperous.
Sultan Mansur Shah was passionate about the faith and encouraged Sufi studies, personally studying under Maulana Abu Bakr and translating the famous commentary Ad Darrul Manzum into Malay.





The interior layout of a traditional Malay wooden house recreated at the Malacca History Museum feels quite authentic. The exhibition hall also has a map showing the locations of typical Malay wooden houses in Malacca, so interested friends (dosti) can follow the map to visit them in person.







The Malacca History Museum houses a set of three enamel incense burners and vases, and there is a statue of Zheng He in the museum courtyard. The museum also features a painting of the Ming Emperor Chengzu sending his envoy Yin Qing to issue an imperial decree to the Sultan of Malacca in 1403 (the first year of the Yongle era).









Muzium Budaya Melayu dan Islam Melaka (Malacca Malay and Islamic World Museum).
A glimpse into what life looked like during the Malacca Sultanate era.




Tepak Sireh is a metal container for storing betel nut, used when welcoming guests, during traditional dances, and in royal ceremonies.

Traditional Malay clothing.



Traditional Malay manuscripts.

Malacca Sultanate Palace Museum.
The Malacca Sultanate Palace Museum, a reconstruction of the palace from the reign of Sultan Mansur Shah (1459-77) built in 1984 based on records in the Malay Annals.








Collapse Read »
Summary: This second part continues through Malay wooden houses and historic sites in Malacca, focusing on house forms, museum displays, and old neighborhood details. It keeps the original place names, photographs, architectural notes, and cultural context for readers exploring Malacca heritage.

A traditional wooden box used by the Malays in Malacca to open coconuts.

Attire worn during traditional Malay wedding ceremonies in Malacca from the 1940s to the 1960s.

The tombstone of Mansur Shah, the sixth Sultan of Malacca (reigned 1459-77), held in the collection of the Malacca History Museum.
Sultan Mansur Shah began the golden age of the Malacca Sultanate, and he was known as a knowledgeable, fair, and pious ruler. He followed an expansionist policy, occupying many areas including the Malay Peninsula, eastern Sumatra, Singapore, and Bintan Island, and he helped spread the faith widely across the Malay Peninsula through marriage alliances.
During his reign, Sultan Mansur Shah lowered trade taxes, charging 6% to Arab and Indian merchants from the west, 3% to local merchants, and exempting merchants from China, Japan, and Java, which made trade in Malacca more prosperous.
Sultan Mansur Shah was passionate about the faith and encouraged Sufi studies, personally studying under Maulana Abu Bakr and translating the famous commentary Ad Darrul Manzum into Malay.





The interior layout of a traditional Malay wooden house recreated at the Malacca History Museum feels quite authentic. The exhibition hall also has a map showing the locations of typical Malay wooden houses in Malacca, so interested friends (dosti) can follow the map to visit them in person.







The Malacca History Museum houses a set of three enamel incense burners and vases, and there is a statue of Zheng He in the museum courtyard. The museum also features a painting of the Ming Emperor Chengzu sending his envoy Yin Qing to issue an imperial decree to the Sultan of Malacca in 1403 (the first year of the Yongle era).









Muzium Budaya Melayu dan Islam Melaka (Malacca Malay and Islamic World Museum).
A glimpse into what life looked like during the Malacca Sultanate era.




Tepak Sireh is a metal container for storing betel nut, used when welcoming guests, during traditional dances, and in royal ceremonies.

Traditional Malay clothing.



Traditional Malay manuscripts.

Malacca Sultanate Palace Museum.
The Malacca Sultanate Palace Museum, a reconstruction of the palace from the reign of Sultan Mansur Shah (1459-77) built in 1984 based on records in the Malay Annals.








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Museum Guide: Tunis Bardo National Museum - Palace, Mosaics and History
Reposted from the web
Summary: This article visits the Bardo National Museum in Tunis, a major museum set inside a former palace and known for its historical collections and mosaics. It keeps the original museum details, photographs, object notes, and travel observations for readers interested in Tunisia's cultural heritage.
The National Museum of Tunisia is located inside the Bardo Palace, 4 kilometers west of the old Medina. The palace was first built in the 15th century. After the Ottoman dynasty took over in the 16th century, it was rebuilt and expanded many times, eventually becoming the main residence of the Husainid Beys (1705-1957).
The Husainid dynasty was a Beylik nominally under the Ottoman Empire. Its founder, Husain, was an Ottoman officer of Greek Cretan descent. He was granted the title of Bey by the Ottoman Sultan in 1705 and began his rule over Tunisia. After the 19th century, the Husainid dynasty began trading heavily with European merchants, and in 1861, they issued the first constitution in the Arab world. However, economic decline and social unrest in the late 19th century led to Tunisia becoming a French protectorate in 1881.
In 1882, Tunisia and France jointly established the Tunisian Office of Antiquities and Arts, which immediately began converting the old harem of the Bardo Palace into a museum. After six years of restoration and collecting, the museum officially opened in 1888.
The museum houses the Small Palace, built by Husain II Bey between 1824 and 1835. The palace was built in the Andalusian Moorish style, featuring a T-shaped main hall and a central courtyard with a pool.










Tile and plaster decorations inside the Small Palace of Husain II.









The reception hall and harem built by Muhammad III Bey between 1859 and 1864 feature both Italian and Tunisian styles.
Muhammad III Bey issued the first written constitution in the Arab world in 1861, which separated executive, legislative, and judicial powers and guaranteed equal rights for Muslims, Christians, and Jews. After the new constitution was issued, European merchants and secular schools began to appear in Tunisia.









The Blue Quran manuscript in the National Museum of Tunisia is a very famous religious manuscript in the world. This scripture uses parchment dyed with indigo, with ink outlining the text and gold leaf applied on top. The calligraphy is in the early Kufic script, which lacks sharp angles and vowel marks.
The origin of the Blue Quran is still highly debated, with theories pointing to Kairouan in Tunisia, Cordoba in Spain, Mashhad in Iran, or Iraq, dating back to the 9th or 10th century. The records say the Blue Quran was kept in the Great Mosque of Kairouan after the 14th century. It was broken up during the Ottoman period, but most of it remains in Kairouan, while other parts are held by major museums and collectors.






Quran manuscripts from the 8th to 12th centuries held by the Great Mosque of Kairouan in Tunisia.
The library of the Great Mosque of Kairouan holds a large number of manuscripts and established a catalog as early as the 13th century. to scriptures, these manuscripts include books related to the Maliki school of thought, which are also the oldest documents of the Maliki school.








Tunisian Qallaline tiles from the 17th and 18th centuries. These tiles are named after the Qallaline region of Tunisia. They were influenced by Ottoman tile art but developed their own unique style.












A marble carving from the 10th-century Fatimid period in Mahdia, Tunisia, depicting a Fatimid prince. A glazed bowl with Kufic script from the Fatimid dynasty period in Mahdia.
The ancient city of Mahdia was built by the Fatimid dynasty between 916 and 921, and it became the capital of the Tunisia region after its completion. Before this, the capital of the Tunisia region was Kairouan, which was dominated by Sunnis. Because of this, the Shia Fatimid dynasty built a new capital on the Mediterranean coast, far away from Kairouan. Once finished, Mahdia included thick city walls, palaces, a harbor, and a great mosque. Unfortunately, none of the surface buildings survived. Now, you can only see artifacts unearthed through archaeological excavations in museums.


Exquisite 11th-century marble carvings with Kufic script.

A 10th-century wood carving from Egypt.

A 13th to 16th-century tombstone from Tunisia where you can see the local style of Arabic calligraphy.










A traditional Tunisian women's headpiece.







Collapse Read »
Summary: This article visits the Bardo National Museum in Tunis, a major museum set inside a former palace and known for its historical collections and mosaics. It keeps the original museum details, photographs, object notes, and travel observations for readers interested in Tunisia's cultural heritage.
The National Museum of Tunisia is located inside the Bardo Palace, 4 kilometers west of the old Medina. The palace was first built in the 15th century. After the Ottoman dynasty took over in the 16th century, it was rebuilt and expanded many times, eventually becoming the main residence of the Husainid Beys (1705-1957).
The Husainid dynasty was a Beylik nominally under the Ottoman Empire. Its founder, Husain, was an Ottoman officer of Greek Cretan descent. He was granted the title of Bey by the Ottoman Sultan in 1705 and began his rule over Tunisia. After the 19th century, the Husainid dynasty began trading heavily with European merchants, and in 1861, they issued the first constitution in the Arab world. However, economic decline and social unrest in the late 19th century led to Tunisia becoming a French protectorate in 1881.
In 1882, Tunisia and France jointly established the Tunisian Office of Antiquities and Arts, which immediately began converting the old harem of the Bardo Palace into a museum. After six years of restoration and collecting, the museum officially opened in 1888.
The museum houses the Small Palace, built by Husain II Bey between 1824 and 1835. The palace was built in the Andalusian Moorish style, featuring a T-shaped main hall and a central courtyard with a pool.










Tile and plaster decorations inside the Small Palace of Husain II.









The reception hall and harem built by Muhammad III Bey between 1859 and 1864 feature both Italian and Tunisian styles.
Muhammad III Bey issued the first written constitution in the Arab world in 1861, which separated executive, legislative, and judicial powers and guaranteed equal rights for Muslims, Christians, and Jews. After the new constitution was issued, European merchants and secular schools began to appear in Tunisia.









The Blue Quran manuscript in the National Museum of Tunisia is a very famous religious manuscript in the world. This scripture uses parchment dyed with indigo, with ink outlining the text and gold leaf applied on top. The calligraphy is in the early Kufic script, which lacks sharp angles and vowel marks.
The origin of the Blue Quran is still highly debated, with theories pointing to Kairouan in Tunisia, Cordoba in Spain, Mashhad in Iran, or Iraq, dating back to the 9th or 10th century. The records say the Blue Quran was kept in the Great Mosque of Kairouan after the 14th century. It was broken up during the Ottoman period, but most of it remains in Kairouan, while other parts are held by major museums and collectors.






Quran manuscripts from the 8th to 12th centuries held by the Great Mosque of Kairouan in Tunisia.
The library of the Great Mosque of Kairouan holds a large number of manuscripts and established a catalog as early as the 13th century. to scriptures, these manuscripts include books related to the Maliki school of thought, which are also the oldest documents of the Maliki school.








Tunisian Qallaline tiles from the 17th and 18th centuries. These tiles are named after the Qallaline region of Tunisia. They were influenced by Ottoman tile art but developed their own unique style.












A marble carving from the 10th-century Fatimid period in Mahdia, Tunisia, depicting a Fatimid prince. A glazed bowl with Kufic script from the Fatimid dynasty period in Mahdia.
The ancient city of Mahdia was built by the Fatimid dynasty between 916 and 921, and it became the capital of the Tunisia region after its completion. Before this, the capital of the Tunisia region was Kairouan, which was dominated by Sunnis. Because of this, the Shia Fatimid dynasty built a new capital on the Mediterranean coast, far away from Kairouan. Once finished, Mahdia included thick city walls, palaces, a harbor, and a great mosque. Unfortunately, none of the surface buildings survived. Now, you can only see artifacts unearthed through archaeological excavations in museums.


Exquisite 11th-century marble carvings with Kufic script.

A 10th-century wood carving from Egypt.

A 13th to 16th-century tombstone from Tunisia where you can see the local style of Arabic calligraphy.










A traditional Tunisian women's headpiece.







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Mosque Travel Guide: Malacca - Eight Historic Mosques (Part 1)
Reposted from the web
Summary: This first part introduces eight historic mosques in Malacca, including their dates, layouts, and role in the city's Muslim community. It keeps the original mosque names, photographs, architectural details, and travel observations for readers interested in Malaysia's Islamic heritage.
Kampung Hulu Mosque: 1728.
Tengkera Small Mosque minaret (bangker): 1728.
Tengkera Mosque: 1782.
Kampung Kling Mosque: 1748.
Bukit Cina Mosque: 1865.
Pengkalan Rama Mosque: first built in the 1730s, rebuilt in 1917.
Duyong Mosque: 1859.
Serkam Pantai Mosque: 1853.
Peringgit Mosque: first built in 1726, rebuilt in 1868.
Kampung Hulu Mosque.
After the Portuguese occupied Malacca, they destroyed all the mosques of the Malacca Sultanate and promoted Catholicism in the city. However, the Portuguese were not successful, and Catholicism did not have much influence in Malacca until the Dutch took over.
The Dutch took a more tolerant approach toward Malacca and allowed the faith to spread there. In 1728, the Dutch East India Company commissioned a Chinese Muslim, Dato' Samsuddin Bin Arom, to build a new mosque near the site of an old one destroyed by the Portuguese. This became the Kampung Hulu Mosque (Masjid Kampung Hulu), the oldest surviving mosque in Malacca.
The main prayer hall of Kampung Hulu Mosque uses the traditional Javanese Tajug multi-layered pyramid roof. The decoration at the very top is called a Mustoko or Memolo in Javanese. This roof structure leaves space between the upper and middle layers for ventilation and light, which adapts well to the humid and rainy tropical climate.
Unlike traditional all-wood Javanese mosques, Kampung Hulu Mosque is built of brick and stone with plaster-coated roofs, an influence from Dutch colonial architecture. the tiles and floor bricks inside the mosque were all imported from China, and the patterns on the windows also show Chinese influence.
A traditional drum called a Beduk is placed above the main gate. Early mosques in Southeast Asia used drums to call people to prayer. Today, many mosques still use drums to call for prayer and to signal the breaking of the fast during Jumu'ah and Ramadan.
The minaret (bangker) looks like a lighthouse, which was a first for the Malay Peninsula, as there was no previous tradition of building minarets there. On the island of Java, the Great Mosque of Banten, built in 1632, was the first to feature a lighthouse-style minaret designed and built by a Chinese man named Cek-ban-cut.









The minbar inside the main hall of Kampung Hulu Mosque has rich patterns and is in the typical Javanese throne style.









I performed the Dhuhr and Maghrib namaz at Kampung Hulu Mosque and also attended the night praise sessions during the Mawlid. There are two cannons at the entrance of the main hall, which are used during the Eid festival. The number '1211' is engraved on the cannon barrel, which corresponds to the year 1796 in the Gregorian calendar.









The minaret (bangke lou) of the Tengkera Small Mosque.
After the Kampung Hulu Mosque was built, an Indian merchant named Muhammad Salleh funded the construction of a small mosque (Surau Tengkera) on Tengkera Street. Tengkera comes from the Portuguese word 'tranquerah,' meaning 'fortress,' as there was once a defensive wall built by the Portuguese here. The Tengkera Small Mosque was also built in 1728. It was originally a wooden structure with pillars made of ironwood (belian) from Pontianak, Kalimantan, and a roof covered with nipa palm leaves.
After the Tengkera Mosque (Masjid Tengkera) was completed in 1782, the Tengkera Small Mosque was abandoned, and today only the minaret remains. Unlike the Kampung Hulu Mosque, the minaret of the Tengkera Small Mosque is modeled after a Chinese pagoda. This was the first of its kind on the Malay Peninsula and has become a major feature of Malacca today.









Tengkera Mosque.
In 1782, the Tengkera Mosque (Masjid Tengkera) was completed to the west of the Tengkera Small Mosque. The Tengkera Mosque also features a traditional Javanese three-tiered pyramid roof (bumbung tiga lapis), and the main hall is supported by four ironwood pillars from Kalimantan. After two renovations in 1890 and 1910, the current Tengkera Mosque has brick walls and a tiled roof. The minaret of the Tengkera Mosque, like that of the Tengkera Small Mosque, is a Chinese-style pagoda structure and serves as a continuation of the earlier minaret.









The exquisite minbar (pulpit) of the Tengkera Mosque is also in the Javanese throne style.









Kampung Kling Mosque.
The Kampung Kling Mosque (Masjid Kampong Kling) is located in the center of Malacca city. It was first built by Indian merchants in 1748 and was converted from a wooden structure to the current brick structure in 1872. The mosque features a traditional Javanese three-tiered pyramid roof (bumbung tiga lapis). The classical Corinthian columns between the main hall and the prayer niche (mihrab), as well as the plaster walls, show the influence of Dutch colonists. The Chinese tiles on the roof, floor, and walls, along with the wood carvings on the doors and windows, reflect Chinese influence.
Legend has it that during the Malacca Sultanate, Kampung Kling was a settlement for Indian Muslim merchants. 'Kling' was the historical term used in the Malay Archipelago for Indians, especially Tamils. On a 1690 map of Malacca, this area is marked as 'Mosquée de Maures' (Moorish Mosque), but its relationship to the Kampung Kling Mosque is uncertain. In the 18th century, this was still a village for South Indian immigrants. After the rubber industry in Malacca boomed in the 19th and early 20th centuries, it became a residential area for Chinese people working in the rubber industry. Today, the mosque is surrounded by Chinese shophouses.









The Kampung Kling Mosque has a beautiful minbar and wood carvings on its doors and windows; the minbar is also in the Javanese throne style.









Sanbao Hill Mosque.
Bukit Cina Mosque (Masjid Bukit Cina), also called Al-Hamideen Mosque, was built in 1865. A new main hall was added in 1978, but the layout of the original old hall remains. The old hall features a traditional Javanese-style three-tiered pyramid roof (bumbung tiga lapis) and four wooden pillars (Soko Guru). Each pillar connects to the foundation with a stone base called Umpak. These bases keep the wood from soaking up groundwater and help absorb shock during earthquakes.









Pengkalan Rama Mosque
Pengkalan Rama Mosque was first built in the 1730s. Dato Penghulu Abdul Ghani funded its renovation in 1917. A new main hall was added in 2004, but it still keeps the traditional Javanese-style three-tiered pyramid roof (bumbung tiga lapis) and four wooden pillars (Soko Guru) of the old hall.









Duyong Mosque
Duyong Mosque (Masjid Duyong) was built in 1850 under the leadership of Wan Chilek. It was originally made of laterite and wood, with a roof made of Chinese and Dutch tiles. In 1908, a minaret (bangkar) was added, blending the styles of a Chinese pagoda and a Western lighthouse.
The mosque underwent several renovations and expansions in 1967, 1973, and 1976. It suffered a fire in 1982 and was later restored. In 2002, the Department of Museums and Antiquities of Malaysia carried out protective repairs on the site.














Telok Mas Mosque
At Telok Mas Mosque (Masjid Telok Mas Al-Khairiah) for namaz. Telok Mas Mosque was built in 1853. During construction, the beams and roof materials were cut from local forests and hauled by water buffalo. The wall stones were mined from reefs near Big Island (Pulau Besar) and transported by sampan boats. The main gate still bears an inscription from the year 1269 of the Hijri calendar, which is 1853 in the Gregorian calendar. A Chinese pagoda-style minaret (bangkar) was added in 1913. Its architectural style is basically the same as the mosques in Kampung Kling and Tengkera.









The minbar pulpit at Telok Mas Mosque is carved with the year 1286 of the Hijri calendar, or 1869 in the Gregorian calendar, and is a classic Javanese throne style.






Peringgit Mosque
Peringgit Mosque (Masjid Peringgit) was first built in 1726 but was later destroyed. It was rebuilt in 1868. Peringgi is the Malay name for the Portuguese, as a Portuguese fort once stood here. Peringgit Mosque was originally built with granite and Dutch bricks, with wooden doors and windows. The roof is a traditional Javanese three-tiered pyramid (bumbung tiga lapis). The bottom layer is covered with Chinese tiles, while the middle and top layers use Dutch tiles. The very top decoration is carved from reef stone.
Following later renovations, the Dutch bricks of Peringgit Mosque were covered with cement, and the Chinese and Dutch tiles were replaced with modern ones. In 2002, the Southern Region Department of Museums and Antiquities of Malaysia restored the site.
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Summary: This first part introduces eight historic mosques in Malacca, including their dates, layouts, and role in the city's Muslim community. It keeps the original mosque names, photographs, architectural details, and travel observations for readers interested in Malaysia's Islamic heritage.
Kampung Hulu Mosque: 1728.
Tengkera Small Mosque minaret (bangker): 1728.
Tengkera Mosque: 1782.
Kampung Kling Mosque: 1748.
Bukit Cina Mosque: 1865.
Pengkalan Rama Mosque: first built in the 1730s, rebuilt in 1917.
Duyong Mosque: 1859.
Serkam Pantai Mosque: 1853.
Peringgit Mosque: first built in 1726, rebuilt in 1868.
Kampung Hulu Mosque.
After the Portuguese occupied Malacca, they destroyed all the mosques of the Malacca Sultanate and promoted Catholicism in the city. However, the Portuguese were not successful, and Catholicism did not have much influence in Malacca until the Dutch took over.
The Dutch took a more tolerant approach toward Malacca and allowed the faith to spread there. In 1728, the Dutch East India Company commissioned a Chinese Muslim, Dato' Samsuddin Bin Arom, to build a new mosque near the site of an old one destroyed by the Portuguese. This became the Kampung Hulu Mosque (Masjid Kampung Hulu), the oldest surviving mosque in Malacca.
The main prayer hall of Kampung Hulu Mosque uses the traditional Javanese Tajug multi-layered pyramid roof. The decoration at the very top is called a Mustoko or Memolo in Javanese. This roof structure leaves space between the upper and middle layers for ventilation and light, which adapts well to the humid and rainy tropical climate.
Unlike traditional all-wood Javanese mosques, Kampung Hulu Mosque is built of brick and stone with plaster-coated roofs, an influence from Dutch colonial architecture. the tiles and floor bricks inside the mosque were all imported from China, and the patterns on the windows also show Chinese influence.
A traditional drum called a Beduk is placed above the main gate. Early mosques in Southeast Asia used drums to call people to prayer. Today, many mosques still use drums to call for prayer and to signal the breaking of the fast during Jumu'ah and Ramadan.
The minaret (bangker) looks like a lighthouse, which was a first for the Malay Peninsula, as there was no previous tradition of building minarets there. On the island of Java, the Great Mosque of Banten, built in 1632, was the first to feature a lighthouse-style minaret designed and built by a Chinese man named Cek-ban-cut.









The minbar inside the main hall of Kampung Hulu Mosque has rich patterns and is in the typical Javanese throne style.









I performed the Dhuhr and Maghrib namaz at Kampung Hulu Mosque and also attended the night praise sessions during the Mawlid. There are two cannons at the entrance of the main hall, which are used during the Eid festival. The number '1211' is engraved on the cannon barrel, which corresponds to the year 1796 in the Gregorian calendar.









The minaret (bangke lou) of the Tengkera Small Mosque.
After the Kampung Hulu Mosque was built, an Indian merchant named Muhammad Salleh funded the construction of a small mosque (Surau Tengkera) on Tengkera Street. Tengkera comes from the Portuguese word 'tranquerah,' meaning 'fortress,' as there was once a defensive wall built by the Portuguese here. The Tengkera Small Mosque was also built in 1728. It was originally a wooden structure with pillars made of ironwood (belian) from Pontianak, Kalimantan, and a roof covered with nipa palm leaves.
After the Tengkera Mosque (Masjid Tengkera) was completed in 1782, the Tengkera Small Mosque was abandoned, and today only the minaret remains. Unlike the Kampung Hulu Mosque, the minaret of the Tengkera Small Mosque is modeled after a Chinese pagoda. This was the first of its kind on the Malay Peninsula and has become a major feature of Malacca today.









Tengkera Mosque.
In 1782, the Tengkera Mosque (Masjid Tengkera) was completed to the west of the Tengkera Small Mosque. The Tengkera Mosque also features a traditional Javanese three-tiered pyramid roof (bumbung tiga lapis), and the main hall is supported by four ironwood pillars from Kalimantan. After two renovations in 1890 and 1910, the current Tengkera Mosque has brick walls and a tiled roof. The minaret of the Tengkera Mosque, like that of the Tengkera Small Mosque, is a Chinese-style pagoda structure and serves as a continuation of the earlier minaret.









The exquisite minbar (pulpit) of the Tengkera Mosque is also in the Javanese throne style.









Kampung Kling Mosque.
The Kampung Kling Mosque (Masjid Kampong Kling) is located in the center of Malacca city. It was first built by Indian merchants in 1748 and was converted from a wooden structure to the current brick structure in 1872. The mosque features a traditional Javanese three-tiered pyramid roof (bumbung tiga lapis). The classical Corinthian columns between the main hall and the prayer niche (mihrab), as well as the plaster walls, show the influence of Dutch colonists. The Chinese tiles on the roof, floor, and walls, along with the wood carvings on the doors and windows, reflect Chinese influence.
Legend has it that during the Malacca Sultanate, Kampung Kling was a settlement for Indian Muslim merchants. 'Kling' was the historical term used in the Malay Archipelago for Indians, especially Tamils. On a 1690 map of Malacca, this area is marked as 'Mosquée de Maures' (Moorish Mosque), but its relationship to the Kampung Kling Mosque is uncertain. In the 18th century, this was still a village for South Indian immigrants. After the rubber industry in Malacca boomed in the 19th and early 20th centuries, it became a residential area for Chinese people working in the rubber industry. Today, the mosque is surrounded by Chinese shophouses.









The Kampung Kling Mosque has a beautiful minbar and wood carvings on its doors and windows; the minbar is also in the Javanese throne style.









Sanbao Hill Mosque.
Bukit Cina Mosque (Masjid Bukit Cina), also called Al-Hamideen Mosque, was built in 1865. A new main hall was added in 1978, but the layout of the original old hall remains. The old hall features a traditional Javanese-style three-tiered pyramid roof (bumbung tiga lapis) and four wooden pillars (Soko Guru). Each pillar connects to the foundation with a stone base called Umpak. These bases keep the wood from soaking up groundwater and help absorb shock during earthquakes.









Pengkalan Rama Mosque
Pengkalan Rama Mosque was first built in the 1730s. Dato Penghulu Abdul Ghani funded its renovation in 1917. A new main hall was added in 2004, but it still keeps the traditional Javanese-style three-tiered pyramid roof (bumbung tiga lapis) and four wooden pillars (Soko Guru) of the old hall.









Duyong Mosque
Duyong Mosque (Masjid Duyong) was built in 1850 under the leadership of Wan Chilek. It was originally made of laterite and wood, with a roof made of Chinese and Dutch tiles. In 1908, a minaret (bangkar) was added, blending the styles of a Chinese pagoda and a Western lighthouse.
The mosque underwent several renovations and expansions in 1967, 1973, and 1976. It suffered a fire in 1982 and was later restored. In 2002, the Department of Museums and Antiquities of Malaysia carried out protective repairs on the site.














Telok Mas Mosque
At Telok Mas Mosque (Masjid Telok Mas Al-Khairiah) for namaz. Telok Mas Mosque was built in 1853. During construction, the beams and roof materials were cut from local forests and hauled by water buffalo. The wall stones were mined from reefs near Big Island (Pulau Besar) and transported by sampan boats. The main gate still bears an inscription from the year 1269 of the Hijri calendar, which is 1853 in the Gregorian calendar. A Chinese pagoda-style minaret (bangkar) was added in 1913. Its architectural style is basically the same as the mosques in Kampung Kling and Tengkera.









The minbar pulpit at Telok Mas Mosque is carved with the year 1286 of the Hijri calendar, or 1869 in the Gregorian calendar, and is a classic Javanese throne style.






Peringgit Mosque
Peringgit Mosque (Masjid Peringgit) was first built in 1726 but was later destroyed. It was rebuilt in 1868. Peringgi is the Malay name for the Portuguese, as a Portuguese fort once stood here. Peringgit Mosque was originally built with granite and Dutch bricks, with wooden doors and windows. The roof is a traditional Javanese three-tiered pyramid (bumbung tiga lapis). The bottom layer is covered with Chinese tiles, while the middle and top layers use Dutch tiles. The very top decoration is carved from reef stone.
Following later renovations, the Dutch bricks of Peringgit Mosque were covered with cement, and the Chinese and Dutch tiles were replaced with modern ones. In 2002, the Southern Region Department of Museums and Antiquities of Malaysia restored the site.
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Mosque Travel Guide: Malacca - Eight Historic Mosques (Part 2)
Reposted from the web
Summary: This second part continues a visit to eight historic mosques in Malacca, with attention to architecture, dates, and local Muslim heritage. It keeps the original mosque names, photographs, street details, and historical notes for readers interested in Islamic heritage in Malaysia.







Collapse Read »
Summary: This second part continues a visit to eight historic mosques in Malacca, with attention to architecture, dates, and local Muslim heritage. It keeps the original mosque names, photographs, street details, and historical notes for readers interested in Islamic heritage in Malaysia.







Collapse Read »
Halal Food Guide: Beijing - 10 Muslim Restaurants Worth Trying (Part 2)
Reposted from the web
Summary: This second Beijing halal restaurant guide covers ten Muslim restaurants worth trying, with practical notes on dishes, locations, and everyday eating. It keeps the original restaurant names, dishes, photographs, and food comments for readers looking for halal meals in Beijing.
10 halal restaurants in Beijing worth visiting, part one: Lahore Courtyard, Maimai Red Beef Sliced Noodles, Hulun Aile, Tribe Garden, Xing Laosi Meatball Spicy Soup, Jinying Meatball Soup, Hotan Canteen Open-Air Night Market, BRBR Blue Harbor Branch, Gulou Noodles, and Xilaishun.
10 new restaurants in Beijing this year: Sultan Turkish Restaurant Beijing Branch, Fang Zhongshan Spicy Soup Hujialou Branch, Zhang Dahui Spicy Soup, Yuwei Xiaoyao Town Spicy Soup, Qinyuanzhai Fresh Braised Duck Shop, Subuha Almond Tofu Jiaodaokou Branch, Shawarma City, Tomato Casual Western Restaurant Super Hopson One Branch, and Yali Jiji Courtyard.
Part two restaurants: Alkhaleej Mandi Kitchen, Xinjiang Mansion Xihan Meatball Soup, Xinjiang Mansion Lobby Altay Afternoon Tea, Muhejia Revolving Hot Pot Mudanyuan Branch, Nazilan at Ritan Street, Baoyuanzhai Heping Guoju Branch, Samosa China-Pakistan Friendship Restaurant Sanlitun Branch, Deshengmenwai Maye Roast Duck, Benjiebi Restaurant, and Shihu Cheng Resort.
Alkhaleej Mandi Kitchen.
The newly opened Alkhaleej Mandi Kitchen in Sanlitun SOHO takes its name from 'Khaleej,' which means the Persian Gulf. They specialize in Arabian Peninsula flavors and serve a variety of Yemeni dishes. After Guangzhou, Yiwu, and Tianjin, Beijing is now the fourth city in China to have Yemeni food.
I ordered the clay pot stew (saltah) with Arabic flatbread (mulawah), which is a classic Yemeni brunch combination. After ordering, they brought out meat broth, cucumber yogurt, lemon, onions, and spicy sauce (sahawiq), which is very authentic. Sahawiq is a signature Yemeni spicy sauce made with fresh chili peppers, olive oil, cilantro, garlic, salt, cumin, and parsley for a unique taste.
Saltah is a classic Yemeni stew that originated from the charity kitchens (imaret) during the Ottoman Empire. Back then, wealthy people or the mosque would stew leftovers in a clay pot, and this meat and vegetable dish became known as saltah. Saltah is popular in northern Yemen, and the main ingredient is meat stew (maraq), which is cooked until very tender, along with potatoes and fenugreek. Fenugreek is what people in Northwest China often call fragrant beans (xiangdouzi) or bitter beans (kudouzi). People in the Northwest dry the leaves and grind them into powder to steam buns, while Yemenis grind the seeds to stew with meat. Fenugreek seeds expand when they meet water and easily foam up when stirred in a bowl.
Their Arabic flatbread is truly large, crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. Arabic flatbread is traditionally baked in an earthen oven (tannur) and is full of wheat aroma. You can tear the bread apart to scoop up the clay pot stew with the spicy sauce, or soak it in the meat broth; both ways are delicious.
In short, their Yemeni food is very authentic. I was very satisfied with the meal. Be careful, as the clay pot stew is very hot. Eat slowly so you don't burn your tongue.









Xinjiang Mansion Xihan Meatball Soup.
After visiting the zoo on Sunday afternoon, we had Xihan meatball soup at Xinjiang Mansion. It only takes about ten minutes to walk from the zoo to Xinjiang Mansion, which is very convenient.
I didn't expect this place to be so popular now. Even arriving between two and three in the afternoon, there were still so many people. It seems everyone is living on Xinjiang time. We ordered meatball soup (wanzi tang), layered steamed buns (youtazi), smoked horse sausage (xun machang), spicy numbing chicken (jiaoma ji), pit-roasted lamb chops (nangkeng yangpai), and rose-flavored flatbread (meigui nang).
First, their spicy numbing chicken is very authentic. The meat is firm because they use layer hens instead of broilers. It is also very numbing. I ate one piece and my whole mouth started tingling. Their pit-roasted lamb chops are also delicious and the meat is very tender. They use a southern Xinjiang method of brushing it with salt water instead of sauce or egg wash. This kind of salt-water roasting really tests the quality of the meat. Their meatball soup is a bit more ordinary by comparison. The broth tastes great, but there are very few meat slices and meatballs. Their layered steamed buns are made with fenugreek powder (xiangdou fen), which is my first time trying.









Altay afternoon tea in the lobby of the Xinjiang Building.
I took my son to the zoo on Sunday and stopped by the Xinjiang Building lobby for some Altay afternoon tea. The set includes salty milk tea, milk skin (naipi), milk strips (naitiao), roasted millet (chaomi), apricot jam, strawberry jam, cream, and fried dough fritters (baorsak). The fried dough fritters are served hot. They taste great when you break them open and add jam. Adding roasted millet and milk skin to the milk tea makes it very rich. Now you can enjoy a Kazakh milk tea house experience without going back to Urumqi, though the milk in Beijing isn't quite as fresh as in Xinjiang.
They also have the popular 'nang cup' (wonangfei) coffee. You can get it with coffee, yogurt, or tea. The sesame flatbread (nang) itself tastes good, and you can buy the cups separately.









Muhejia Rotating Hot Pot Mudanyuan branch.
After the Mudanyuan Muhejia Rotating Hot Pot was demolished, it reopened in the storefronts of the building across the street. The new shop has a better environment, and the dishes remain the same. We ordered mushroom broth, nourishing broth, tomato broth, and pickled cabbage broth, and we had a very comfortable meal.






Nazilan at Ritan Shangjie.
We originally wanted to go to Nazilan at Ritan Shangjie for Xinjiang-style clay pot hot pot (they should be the only place in Beijing that has it), but when we arrived, they said it wasn't available, so we didn't get to eat it. So we ordered spicy chicken (lazi ji), minced meat noodles (suirou banmian), meat dumplings (ququr), grilled meat (kaorou), liver wrapped in fat (youbao gan), minced meat thin pancakes (suirou bing), and yogurt.
The quality was highly praised by our whole family. Everyone thought their spicy chicken was well-made, even better than Yangle Spicy Chicken in Urumqi. The chicken had no gamey smell and was very spicy.
The noodles are made with egg-infused dough and topped with a fried egg. The texture of the hand-pulled noodles is great, and the minced meat is very fragrant. It would be considered very good noodles even in Urumqi.
The meat dumplings were for Suleiman. They were very authentic, with thin skins and plenty of meat. Suleiman ate over a dozen in one go.
Their grilled meat (kaorou) and liver wrapped in fat (youbaogan) are both very tender and seasoned just right.
Their yogurt is likely the best on the entire Ritan Shangjie street. It is rich, creamy, and tangy, far better than the neighboring Xinjiang restaurants, and it pairs perfectly with the spicy chicken (lazi ji). I honestly don't think the Xinjiang-brand yogurts sold in Beijing's supermarkets and dairy shops represent the true quality of real Xinjiang yogurt. If you want to taste the kind of yogurt Xinjiang locals drink every day, this place is a pretty good choice.
Also, when we went around 6 or 7 p.m. on Sunday, the atmosphere was quite nice. Everyone was eating quietly, which made for a very comfortable experience. Some of the other Xinjiang restaurants nearby get very noisy at night with people drinking and talking loudly, which can be a bit overwhelming while you eat.









Baoyuanzhai at Heping Guoju
Baoyuanzhai, a halal pastry shop from Wanziying in Chaoyang District, has opened a branch at Heping Guoju on the second basement floor of the Wangfujing Department Store. The decor is very old-school. They have a variety of traditional and modern pastries, including both sugar-free and regular options. They also have savory and scallion-flavored walnut cookies (taosu). You can buy them individually or in gift boxes, making them perfect for tourists to try.
As the weather gets cooler, there are fewer people in Heping Guoju than before, making it a better time to bring kids. There is a steam locomotive and a 'Night Shanghai' stage, both of which kept my son entertained for a long time.












Samosa China-Pakistan Friendship Restaurant, Sanlitun Branch
At noon, I went to the newly opened Samosa China-Pakistan Friendship Restaurant in Sanlitun, located on Dongzhimen Outer Street, for the buffet. The restaurant is on the first floor of the Atour Hotel. They mainly serve various curries, with biryani fried rice, garlic naan, and butter naan as staples. For dessert, they have halwa (a sweet confection), and their classic drink is a mint cooler.
Their most unique feature is the grilled meat buffet! Once the beef skewers are grilled, they bring them to each table before hanging them up. They also have a secret menu item: extra-large lamb skewers, which are grilled until very tender and delicious.
Since I brought my son, we picked out a few non-spicy options for him. His favorites were the tikka boti (clay oven grilled chicken chunks) and the halwa. Halwa originated in Persia and later spread throughout the Middle East and South Asia. South Asian halwa is made from semolina. It has a smooth, buttery texture and is just the right level of sweet.
Their spinach and paneer (milk curd) is also worth trying. Paneer is a type of South Asian fresh cheese. The name comes from the Persian word 'panir' for cheese. To make it, you add lemon, vinegar, or dahi (yogurt) to hot milk, strain the curds through a cloth, and soak them in cold water to create fresh paneer. Paneer has a texture similar to tofu and isn't very sour, making it great for children.










Maye Roast Duck outside Deshengmen
Traffic outside Deshengmen forced me to turn into a small alley in Dewai Guanxiang, where I unexpectedly found a newly opened roast duck shop right next to Pamir Restaurant (Pamir Shifu). Halal roast duck is definitely rare, so I quickly bought half a duck to try, along with salt and pepper duck frame and salt-water duck liver. They only have a service window, so you have to take the food home to eat.
I tried the roast duck after getting home; it tasted pretty good, was all lean meat, and had a slightly sweet flavor. At noon, I ordered their half-set roast duck again. It was much cheaper with a discount on Meituan, making it a great value and perfect for a work lunch. The only downside is that delivery makes the skin soggy, so it definitely isn't as fragrant as when it's freshly made.








Benjiebi Restaurant
I took Suleiman shopping at the Kids' City in Solana, and afterward, we had lunch at the South Asian restaurant Benjiebi on Lucky Street, right across from Solana. The owner is from Bangladesh, and the food leans toward North Indian style. Compared to the long lines at restaurants inside Solana, the places on Lucky Street are much less crowded.
Benjiebi is a long-standing South Asian spot in Beijing. I used to go there often for their weekday lunch set, which is a great deal. They now offer a Liangma River night cruise package, which we want to try if we get the chance.
They thoughtfully mark all the dishes suitable for children on their menu. We ordered grilled broccoli with cheese (Broccolli phool Malai Paneer), butter chicken (Murgh Butter Chicken), saffron rice, mint whole-wheat flatbread (Pudina Wholewheat Paratha), mint rose syrup (Mint Roohafza), and salty yogurt drink (Lassi Salty).
The paneer in the grilled cheese dish is a South Asian fresh cheese. The name comes from the Persian word 'panir'. It is made by adding lemon, vinegar, or yogurt (Dahi) to hot milk, then draining the curds in cloth and soaking them in cold water to create fresh paneer. The texture of paneer is a bit like firm tofu, and it isn't very sour, making it perfect for kids.
Butter chicken (Murgh Butter Chicken) was invented by chance in the 1950s at the Moti Mahal restaurant in Delhi when they put roasted chicken into a buttery tomato curry sauce. It became a classic South Asian dish worldwide after the 1970s. Their butter chicken isn't spicy, so it's an Indian curry that even children can try.
Mint whole-wheat flatbread (Pudina Wholewheat Paratha) is rare in Beijing's South Asian restaurants and is a classic North Indian staple. It is made by folding mint into the layers of whole-wheat dough. It comes out very crispy and is especially fragrant when eaten hot.
Their mint rose syrup is also very tasty. RoohAfza is a classic South Asian Ramadan drink, invented in 1906 by an Indian Muslim from British India named Hakim Hafiz Abdul Majeed, based on traditional Arab-Persian Unani medicine. He selected various herbs and fruit syrups to create a concentrated drink to prevent heatstroke, which is very helpful for relieving dehydration during fasting. After the partition of India and Pakistan in 1947, his descendants opened companies in India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh, making RoohAfza popular all over South Asia.
Suleiman really loves their salty milk shake (xian naixi), he got hooked and could not stop drinking it.









Shihucheng Resort
In the evening, we went to Shihucheng Resort near the Huanghuacheng Lakeside Great Wall in Huairou for dinner. The place is run by Hui Muslims from Changying, and they specialize in rainbow trout, along with various home-style dishes. Rainbow trout needs very high-quality water and can only survive in flowing water, so you rarely find it in city restaurants; you have to go into the mountains of Huairou to eat live fish.
We ordered grilled rainbow trout, braised rainbow trout (kuadun hongtunyu), jasmine buds (moliya), stewed small free-range chicken, green beans with dough rolls (doujiao nianjuanzi), brine-marinated firm tofu (lushui laodoufu), farm-style scrambled eggs, and cornmeal flatbreads (tiebingzi). Since we had a baby with us, we specifically asked the owner for no spice and less salt, and the final result suited our tastes perfectly. The grilled rainbow trout was very fresh, and the braised rainbow trout was very flavorful; both ways of cooking are worth trying. It was my first time eating jasmine buds, and they were very refreshing served as a cold salad. Their menu also lists mixed willow buds, but you can only eat them when they are in season. The other dishes were also delicious, and I liked the green beans with dough rolls the best; the rolls were so fragrant after soaking up the juices from the stewed beans and meat.
However, their hygiene definitely cannot compare to the city, especially the baby chair which was very greasy, and the spoons were not washed well either. Friends who are particular about cleanliness should think carefully before going.
The scenery near Shihucheng Resort is beautiful, the Huaijiu River is very clear, and the air is very fresh. Their accommodation is very cheap, you can walk to the Huanghuacheng Lakeside Great Wall, and they provide halal breakfast; when we went, we saw many older folks staying there.








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Summary: This second Beijing halal restaurant guide covers ten Muslim restaurants worth trying, with practical notes on dishes, locations, and everyday eating. It keeps the original restaurant names, dishes, photographs, and food comments for readers looking for halal meals in Beijing.
10 halal restaurants in Beijing worth visiting, part one: Lahore Courtyard, Maimai Red Beef Sliced Noodles, Hulun Aile, Tribe Garden, Xing Laosi Meatball Spicy Soup, Jinying Meatball Soup, Hotan Canteen Open-Air Night Market, BRBR Blue Harbor Branch, Gulou Noodles, and Xilaishun.
10 new restaurants in Beijing this year: Sultan Turkish Restaurant Beijing Branch, Fang Zhongshan Spicy Soup Hujialou Branch, Zhang Dahui Spicy Soup, Yuwei Xiaoyao Town Spicy Soup, Qinyuanzhai Fresh Braised Duck Shop, Subuha Almond Tofu Jiaodaokou Branch, Shawarma City, Tomato Casual Western Restaurant Super Hopson One Branch, and Yali Jiji Courtyard.
Part two restaurants: Alkhaleej Mandi Kitchen, Xinjiang Mansion Xihan Meatball Soup, Xinjiang Mansion Lobby Altay Afternoon Tea, Muhejia Revolving Hot Pot Mudanyuan Branch, Nazilan at Ritan Street, Baoyuanzhai Heping Guoju Branch, Samosa China-Pakistan Friendship Restaurant Sanlitun Branch, Deshengmenwai Maye Roast Duck, Benjiebi Restaurant, and Shihu Cheng Resort.
Alkhaleej Mandi Kitchen.
The newly opened Alkhaleej Mandi Kitchen in Sanlitun SOHO takes its name from 'Khaleej,' which means the Persian Gulf. They specialize in Arabian Peninsula flavors and serve a variety of Yemeni dishes. After Guangzhou, Yiwu, and Tianjin, Beijing is now the fourth city in China to have Yemeni food.
I ordered the clay pot stew (saltah) with Arabic flatbread (mulawah), which is a classic Yemeni brunch combination. After ordering, they brought out meat broth, cucumber yogurt, lemon, onions, and spicy sauce (sahawiq), which is very authentic. Sahawiq is a signature Yemeni spicy sauce made with fresh chili peppers, olive oil, cilantro, garlic, salt, cumin, and parsley for a unique taste.
Saltah is a classic Yemeni stew that originated from the charity kitchens (imaret) during the Ottoman Empire. Back then, wealthy people or the mosque would stew leftovers in a clay pot, and this meat and vegetable dish became known as saltah. Saltah is popular in northern Yemen, and the main ingredient is meat stew (maraq), which is cooked until very tender, along with potatoes and fenugreek. Fenugreek is what people in Northwest China often call fragrant beans (xiangdouzi) or bitter beans (kudouzi). People in the Northwest dry the leaves and grind them into powder to steam buns, while Yemenis grind the seeds to stew with meat. Fenugreek seeds expand when they meet water and easily foam up when stirred in a bowl.
Their Arabic flatbread is truly large, crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. Arabic flatbread is traditionally baked in an earthen oven (tannur) and is full of wheat aroma. You can tear the bread apart to scoop up the clay pot stew with the spicy sauce, or soak it in the meat broth; both ways are delicious.
In short, their Yemeni food is very authentic. I was very satisfied with the meal. Be careful, as the clay pot stew is very hot. Eat slowly so you don't burn your tongue.









Xinjiang Mansion Xihan Meatball Soup.
After visiting the zoo on Sunday afternoon, we had Xihan meatball soup at Xinjiang Mansion. It only takes about ten minutes to walk from the zoo to Xinjiang Mansion, which is very convenient.
I didn't expect this place to be so popular now. Even arriving between two and three in the afternoon, there were still so many people. It seems everyone is living on Xinjiang time. We ordered meatball soup (wanzi tang), layered steamed buns (youtazi), smoked horse sausage (xun machang), spicy numbing chicken (jiaoma ji), pit-roasted lamb chops (nangkeng yangpai), and rose-flavored flatbread (meigui nang).
First, their spicy numbing chicken is very authentic. The meat is firm because they use layer hens instead of broilers. It is also very numbing. I ate one piece and my whole mouth started tingling. Their pit-roasted lamb chops are also delicious and the meat is very tender. They use a southern Xinjiang method of brushing it with salt water instead of sauce or egg wash. This kind of salt-water roasting really tests the quality of the meat. Their meatball soup is a bit more ordinary by comparison. The broth tastes great, but there are very few meat slices and meatballs. Their layered steamed buns are made with fenugreek powder (xiangdou fen), which is my first time trying.









Altay afternoon tea in the lobby of the Xinjiang Building.
I took my son to the zoo on Sunday and stopped by the Xinjiang Building lobby for some Altay afternoon tea. The set includes salty milk tea, milk skin (naipi), milk strips (naitiao), roasted millet (chaomi), apricot jam, strawberry jam, cream, and fried dough fritters (baorsak). The fried dough fritters are served hot. They taste great when you break them open and add jam. Adding roasted millet and milk skin to the milk tea makes it very rich. Now you can enjoy a Kazakh milk tea house experience without going back to Urumqi, though the milk in Beijing isn't quite as fresh as in Xinjiang.
They also have the popular 'nang cup' (wonangfei) coffee. You can get it with coffee, yogurt, or tea. The sesame flatbread (nang) itself tastes good, and you can buy the cups separately.









Muhejia Rotating Hot Pot Mudanyuan branch.
After the Mudanyuan Muhejia Rotating Hot Pot was demolished, it reopened in the storefronts of the building across the street. The new shop has a better environment, and the dishes remain the same. We ordered mushroom broth, nourishing broth, tomato broth, and pickled cabbage broth, and we had a very comfortable meal.






Nazilan at Ritan Shangjie.
We originally wanted to go to Nazilan at Ritan Shangjie for Xinjiang-style clay pot hot pot (they should be the only place in Beijing that has it), but when we arrived, they said it wasn't available, so we didn't get to eat it. So we ordered spicy chicken (lazi ji), minced meat noodles (suirou banmian), meat dumplings (ququr), grilled meat (kaorou), liver wrapped in fat (youbao gan), minced meat thin pancakes (suirou bing), and yogurt.
The quality was highly praised by our whole family. Everyone thought their spicy chicken was well-made, even better than Yangle Spicy Chicken in Urumqi. The chicken had no gamey smell and was very spicy.
The noodles are made with egg-infused dough and topped with a fried egg. The texture of the hand-pulled noodles is great, and the minced meat is very fragrant. It would be considered very good noodles even in Urumqi.
The meat dumplings were for Suleiman. They were very authentic, with thin skins and plenty of meat. Suleiman ate over a dozen in one go.
Their grilled meat (kaorou) and liver wrapped in fat (youbaogan) are both very tender and seasoned just right.
Their yogurt is likely the best on the entire Ritan Shangjie street. It is rich, creamy, and tangy, far better than the neighboring Xinjiang restaurants, and it pairs perfectly with the spicy chicken (lazi ji). I honestly don't think the Xinjiang-brand yogurts sold in Beijing's supermarkets and dairy shops represent the true quality of real Xinjiang yogurt. If you want to taste the kind of yogurt Xinjiang locals drink every day, this place is a pretty good choice.
Also, when we went around 6 or 7 p.m. on Sunday, the atmosphere was quite nice. Everyone was eating quietly, which made for a very comfortable experience. Some of the other Xinjiang restaurants nearby get very noisy at night with people drinking and talking loudly, which can be a bit overwhelming while you eat.









Baoyuanzhai at Heping Guoju
Baoyuanzhai, a halal pastry shop from Wanziying in Chaoyang District, has opened a branch at Heping Guoju on the second basement floor of the Wangfujing Department Store. The decor is very old-school. They have a variety of traditional and modern pastries, including both sugar-free and regular options. They also have savory and scallion-flavored walnut cookies (taosu). You can buy them individually or in gift boxes, making them perfect for tourists to try.
As the weather gets cooler, there are fewer people in Heping Guoju than before, making it a better time to bring kids. There is a steam locomotive and a 'Night Shanghai' stage, both of which kept my son entertained for a long time.












Samosa China-Pakistan Friendship Restaurant, Sanlitun Branch
At noon, I went to the newly opened Samosa China-Pakistan Friendship Restaurant in Sanlitun, located on Dongzhimen Outer Street, for the buffet. The restaurant is on the first floor of the Atour Hotel. They mainly serve various curries, with biryani fried rice, garlic naan, and butter naan as staples. For dessert, they have halwa (a sweet confection), and their classic drink is a mint cooler.
Their most unique feature is the grilled meat buffet! Once the beef skewers are grilled, they bring them to each table before hanging them up. They also have a secret menu item: extra-large lamb skewers, which are grilled until very tender and delicious.
Since I brought my son, we picked out a few non-spicy options for him. His favorites were the tikka boti (clay oven grilled chicken chunks) and the halwa. Halwa originated in Persia and later spread throughout the Middle East and South Asia. South Asian halwa is made from semolina. It has a smooth, buttery texture and is just the right level of sweet.
Their spinach and paneer (milk curd) is also worth trying. Paneer is a type of South Asian fresh cheese. The name comes from the Persian word 'panir' for cheese. To make it, you add lemon, vinegar, or dahi (yogurt) to hot milk, strain the curds through a cloth, and soak them in cold water to create fresh paneer. Paneer has a texture similar to tofu and isn't very sour, making it great for children.










Maye Roast Duck outside Deshengmen
Traffic outside Deshengmen forced me to turn into a small alley in Dewai Guanxiang, where I unexpectedly found a newly opened roast duck shop right next to Pamir Restaurant (Pamir Shifu). Halal roast duck is definitely rare, so I quickly bought half a duck to try, along with salt and pepper duck frame and salt-water duck liver. They only have a service window, so you have to take the food home to eat.
I tried the roast duck after getting home; it tasted pretty good, was all lean meat, and had a slightly sweet flavor. At noon, I ordered their half-set roast duck again. It was much cheaper with a discount on Meituan, making it a great value and perfect for a work lunch. The only downside is that delivery makes the skin soggy, so it definitely isn't as fragrant as when it's freshly made.








Benjiebi Restaurant
I took Suleiman shopping at the Kids' City in Solana, and afterward, we had lunch at the South Asian restaurant Benjiebi on Lucky Street, right across from Solana. The owner is from Bangladesh, and the food leans toward North Indian style. Compared to the long lines at restaurants inside Solana, the places on Lucky Street are much less crowded.
Benjiebi is a long-standing South Asian spot in Beijing. I used to go there often for their weekday lunch set, which is a great deal. They now offer a Liangma River night cruise package, which we want to try if we get the chance.
They thoughtfully mark all the dishes suitable for children on their menu. We ordered grilled broccoli with cheese (Broccolli phool Malai Paneer), butter chicken (Murgh Butter Chicken), saffron rice, mint whole-wheat flatbread (Pudina Wholewheat Paratha), mint rose syrup (Mint Roohafza), and salty yogurt drink (Lassi Salty).
The paneer in the grilled cheese dish is a South Asian fresh cheese. The name comes from the Persian word 'panir'. It is made by adding lemon, vinegar, or yogurt (Dahi) to hot milk, then draining the curds in cloth and soaking them in cold water to create fresh paneer. The texture of paneer is a bit like firm tofu, and it isn't very sour, making it perfect for kids.
Butter chicken (Murgh Butter Chicken) was invented by chance in the 1950s at the Moti Mahal restaurant in Delhi when they put roasted chicken into a buttery tomato curry sauce. It became a classic South Asian dish worldwide after the 1970s. Their butter chicken isn't spicy, so it's an Indian curry that even children can try.
Mint whole-wheat flatbread (Pudina Wholewheat Paratha) is rare in Beijing's South Asian restaurants and is a classic North Indian staple. It is made by folding mint into the layers of whole-wheat dough. It comes out very crispy and is especially fragrant when eaten hot.
Their mint rose syrup is also very tasty. RoohAfza is a classic South Asian Ramadan drink, invented in 1906 by an Indian Muslim from British India named Hakim Hafiz Abdul Majeed, based on traditional Arab-Persian Unani medicine. He selected various herbs and fruit syrups to create a concentrated drink to prevent heatstroke, which is very helpful for relieving dehydration during fasting. After the partition of India and Pakistan in 1947, his descendants opened companies in India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh, making RoohAfza popular all over South Asia.
Suleiman really loves their salty milk shake (xian naixi), he got hooked and could not stop drinking it.









Shihucheng Resort
In the evening, we went to Shihucheng Resort near the Huanghuacheng Lakeside Great Wall in Huairou for dinner. The place is run by Hui Muslims from Changying, and they specialize in rainbow trout, along with various home-style dishes. Rainbow trout needs very high-quality water and can only survive in flowing water, so you rarely find it in city restaurants; you have to go into the mountains of Huairou to eat live fish.
We ordered grilled rainbow trout, braised rainbow trout (kuadun hongtunyu), jasmine buds (moliya), stewed small free-range chicken, green beans with dough rolls (doujiao nianjuanzi), brine-marinated firm tofu (lushui laodoufu), farm-style scrambled eggs, and cornmeal flatbreads (tiebingzi). Since we had a baby with us, we specifically asked the owner for no spice and less salt, and the final result suited our tastes perfectly. The grilled rainbow trout was very fresh, and the braised rainbow trout was very flavorful; both ways of cooking are worth trying. It was my first time eating jasmine buds, and they were very refreshing served as a cold salad. Their menu also lists mixed willow buds, but you can only eat them when they are in season. The other dishes were also delicious, and I liked the green beans with dough rolls the best; the rolls were so fragrant after soaking up the juices from the stewed beans and meat.
However, their hygiene definitely cannot compare to the city, especially the baby chair which was very greasy, and the spoons were not washed well either. Friends who are particular about cleanliness should think carefully before going.
The scenery near Shihucheng Resort is beautiful, the Huaijiu River is very clear, and the air is very fresh. Their accommodation is very cheap, you can walk to the Huanghuacheng Lakeside Great Wall, and they provide halal breakfast; when we went, we saw many older folks staying there.








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Islamic History Guide: Quanzhou Lingshan Holy Tomb and Muslim Heritage
Reposted from the web
Summary: This article visits the Lingshan Holy Tomb in Quanzhou, one of the city's key Islamic heritage sites linked to early Muslim history on China's coast. It keeps the original tomb details, inscriptions, photographs, names, and historical context for readers studying Quanzhou Muslim heritage.
Lingshan Holy Tomb is in the east of Quanzhou city, also known as the Tomb of the Three and Four Sages. The story of the Three and Four Sages mainly comes from the Min Shu: Fang Yu Zhi written by He Qiaoyuan in 1629 (the second year of the Chongzhen reign of the Ming Dynasty). The Min Shu quotes a legend that four disciples of the Prophet Muhammad came to the Tang Dynasty to spread the faith during the Wude period (618-626). One sage went to Guangzhou, two went to Yangzhou, and the third and fourth went to Quanzhou. After the third and fourth sages passed away, they were buried in Quanzhou, where their graves glowed at night, making them holy sites.
In reality, Lingshan was a burial ground for monks from Chengtian Mosque from the Five Dynasties period to the Southern Song Dynasty. It was only abandoned after Chengtian Mosque failed in its resistance against the Yuan Dynasty at the end of the Southern Song. According to the Record of Burying Foreign Merchants at Dongban in Quanzhou by Lin Zhiqi, a Southern Song official, a merchant from the ancient Iranian port of Siraf followed the suggestion of Pu Xiasin to donate money and buy land to build the first tomb for foreign merchants at Dongban in Quanzhou. The cemetery was started in 1162 (the 32nd year of the Shaoxing reign of the Southern Song) and finished in 1163 (the first year of the Longxing reign).
The holy tomb has a stone tablet from the Yuan Dynasty dated 1322, written in Arabic, which says: These two deceased came to this land during the time of the Faghur. It is said they were men of great virtue, so after death, they moved from the earthly world to the eternal one. According to research by Chen Dasheng in A Preliminary Study of the Date of Lingshan Holy Tomb in Quanzhou, Faghur is an Arabic transliteration of the Persian word Bagh pur, which specifically referred to the Emperor of China in Persian literature from the Five Dynasties to the Song and Yuan periods.
According to the Quanzhou Prefecture Gazetteer, when Zhou Daoguang, the prefect of Quanzhou, visited Lingshan Holy Tomb in 1562 (the 41st year of the Jiajing reign of the Ming Dynasty), he mentioned there were three mounds, which were the holy tombs. The Min Shu Chao, written during the Chongzhen reign, records that the owner of the third tomb was Gao Di Shi Xu Ba Ba. In the 1930s, the wooden frame of the pavilion at Lingshan Holy Tomb had collapsed, leaving only four stone shuttle-shaped pillars. At that time, the three Sumeru-style stone tombs arranged in a triangle were still well-preserved, with stone covers on top.
In 1958, the Quanzhou Cultural Bureau and the municipal committee moved the tombstone of Gao Di Shi Xu Ba Ba to the northern hillside to fit the legend in the Min Shu. At the same time, they moved the tombstone of the imam Ma Ahun Yongchun (Ma Yongchun) from the south of the holy tomb to the northern hillside. In March 1959, a new stone pavilion was built with three levels of terraces and stairs on both sides. All other tombstones in front of the graves were removed to create a lawn, forming the layout seen today.
The holy tomb currently has two granite graves divided into three layers, with lotus petal carvings on the bottom layer. In the past, during Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha, Hui Muslims in Quanzhou would attend prayers at Qingjing Mosque. First, an imam would lead the heads of households to visit the homes of other Hui Muslims near the mosque for a greeting, and then all the Hui Muslims would go together to visit the graves at Lingshan. When visiting the graves, they would first recite the Quran together at the holy tomb before going to their own family graves.









The archway and gate in front of Lingshan Holy Tomb, the banyan trees on Lingshan Avenue, and the national and provincial heritage site markers, introduction boards, and notices at the holy tomb.









The historical stone tablets at Lingshan Holy Tomb.
The Incense Offering Tablet: This records the visit of Zheng He to the graves before his fifth voyage to the Western Oceans in 1417 (the 15th year of the Yongle reign), erected by the commander Pu Heri. The name Hulumesi carved on the tablet refers to the ancient Persian port of Hormuz.

The Chen Yougong Repair Tablet: Erected in 1714 (the 53rd year of the Kangxi reign), it records the repair of Lingshan Holy Tomb by Chen Yougong, a regional commander in Fujian, and Chen Mei, a regional military official. The inscription below lists seven surnames: Chen, Ma, Guo, Huang, Li, Yang, Pu, and Ding.

The Xia Bidi Repair Tablet: Records the repair of the holy tomb by the director Xia Bidi in 1751 (the 16th year of the Qianlong reign).

The Guo Bacui Repair Tablet: Records the repair of the holy tomb by the scholar Guo Bacui in 1783 (the 48th year of the Qianlong reign). Guo Bacui was a Hui Muslim from the Guo family in Baiqi. He passed the military examination in 1779 (the 40th year of the Qianlong reign), was awarded the rank of military officer, and served in the Anping Left Battalion in Taiwan. When he erected the tablet in 1783, he was stationed in Xiamen and ordered to patrol the coastal areas of Taiwan and Penghu. In 1787 (the 52nd year of the Qianlong reign), the Lin Shuangwen uprising in Taiwan besieged Zhuluo County. Guo Bacui was ordered to rush to the rescue and died on the battlefield.


The Ma Jianji renovation stele records that in 1818 (the 23rd year of the Jiaqing reign), Ma Jianji, the acting commander-in-chief of the Fujian provincial land forces and general of Zhangzhou from Western Sichuan, rebuilt the tomb pavilion. The stele calls the Holy Tomb the 'Baba Tomb,' with 'Baba' being the Persian term of respect for an elder. Ma Jianji was from Nanchong, Sichuan. Besides renovating the Lingshan Holy Tomb, he also renovated the Qingjing Mosque in Quanzhou.

The Jiang Changgui renovation stele records that in 1871 (the 10th year of the Tongzhi reign), Fujian commander Jiang Changgui renovated the Holy Tomb. Jiang Changgui was a Hui Muslim from Yanting, Sichuan. His family practiced martial arts for generations. He was brave in battle, led troops against the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom for many years, earned many military merits, and was titled Zhiyong Baturu and General Jianwei. Besides renovating the Lingshan Holy Tomb, he also renovated the Qingjing Mosque and invited the army imam Ma Yongchun to lead religious affairs.

Beside the Holy Tomb is a 'Wind-Moving Stone' (fengdongshi). It features the inscription 'Jade Ball' (biyu qiu) by Quanzhou prefect Zhou Daoguang in 1563 (the 42nd year of the Jiajing reign) and 'Natural Ingenuity' (tianran jimiyao) by Ma Jianji in 1818 (the 23rd year of the Jiaqing reign).
Zhou Daoguang was the first person to record the term 'Lingshan Holy Tomb'. The Quanzhou Prefecture Gazetteer, Mountains and Rivers, Lingshan section records: 'Asking the locals, they say: This is the Lingshan Holy Tomb... Since the religion from foreign lands entered the Middle Kingdom, there have been Hui Muslims.' Its founder's surname and generation are unknown, but he loved this hill and was buried here...' He also described the tomb's layout at the time: 'Entering the gate, the path is very narrow.' Climbing to the hall, the atmosphere feels different. Reaching the top, there are three mounds, which are the Holy Tombs. In front of the tomb, there is a small pavilion on the right for namaz. On the left, there is a shed where one can rest.


In 1958, when the Fuzhou-Xiamen highway outside the East Gate of Quanzhou was widened, several Song and Yuan dynasty Muslim pedestal-style tomb stones by the road were moved next to the Lingshan Holy Tomb. That same year, farmers in Jintoupu village outside Tonghuai Gate in Quanzhou were collecting fertilizer and dredging pond sludge. They unearthed over ten pedestal-style tomb stones, which were temporarily moved to the Qingjing Mosque and later moved to the Lingshan Holy Tomb for preservation. That same year, residents on Tonghuai Street in Quanzhou unearthed three side-by-side pedestal-style tomb stones while building a house, which were also moved to the Lingshan Holy Tomb for preservation.








The image below is likely the tomb stone of Gaodi Shixu Baba, which was originally with the 'Three Sages and Four Sages' tomb stones and moved here during the 1958 renovation.

Details of the Arabic stone carving. The content of the carving is entirely scripture, with no identity information about the tomb owner. According to Quanzhou's Song and Yuan dynasty traditions, the tomb stone recording the owner's identity would have been a separate slab.









Next to the Lingshan Holy Tomb is the cemetery for local Quanzhou Hui Muslims. The Ge, Ma, and Huang families are descendants of the generations of imams from the Qingjing Mosque. They mostly worked in the leather industry in the past and lived inside the Qingjing Mosque until 1983. In the past, Quanzhou Hui Muslims would come here to visit the graves every Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha. When visiting the graves, first light some incense (anxixiang), then trace the carvings on the tombstone with red paint, and finally invite an imam to recite scriptures.
In the tomb complex, you can see the ancestral graves of the Huang family from Jiangxia and the Huang family from Yanshan. The Jiangxia Huang family ancestral grave is inscribed with 'Mosque Huang Residence,' while the Yanshan Huang family grave bears inscriptions like 'First Year of the Xuantong Reign' and 'Imperially Appointed Fifth-Rank Official... Land Route Commander...' which are hard to read completely due to the red paint.









According to their family records, the Guo family of Hui Muslims originally lived in Guo Family Village in Fuyang, Hangzhou, before arriving in Quanzhou during the Yuan Dynasty. During the Hongwu reign of the Ming Dynasty, Guo Zhongyuan moved from Quanzhou to Baiqipu on the opposite side of Houzhu Port, which eventually became the present-day Baiqi Hui Ethnic Township. The Baiqi Guo family left the faith in 1607 (the 35th year of the Wanli reign of the Ming Dynasty). In 1709 (the 48th year of the Kangxi reign), Chen Yougong, a regional commander and left-wing general for the Fujian Ting, Yan, and Shao areas, came to Quanzhou to revive the faith and established scripture hall education at the Qingjing Mosque. At that time, Guo Honglong, a member of the eighth generation of the Guo family's fourth branch, moved from He Cuo in Baiqipu to live at the Qingjing Mosque and returned to the faith, citing the need to strengthen the main family line. After Guo Honglong returned to the faith, his descendants lived at the Qingjing Mosque. His descendant, Guo Shifu, helped renovate the mosque in 1794 (the 59th year of the Qianlong reign) alongside Bai Yunhan, a deputy general of the Zhangzhou Left Battalion.









A large section of the Lingshan Sacred Tomb scenic area is dedicated to the Ding family cemetery from Chendai.
According to family records, the first-generation ancestor of the Chendai Ding family, Ding Jin (1251-1298), was originally from Suzhou and settled in Quanzhou for business. The Chendai Ding family maintained their faith for ten generations, spanning over two hundred years from the 13th to the 16th century. Ding Yanxia, the tenth-generation descendant born around 1517, wrote detailed accounts of the religious customs he experienced as a child in his work, 'On Ancestral Faith' (Zujiao Shuo). However, calculations suggest that by the eighth to ninth generation, the Chendai Ding family no longer prioritized scripture hall education. The remaining relics of the faith belonging to the Chendai Ding family are the several Ming Dynasty tomb stones located within the Lingshan Sacred Tomb.
Before the Ding family established their base in Chendai, the first, second, and third generations were all buried at Lingshan, east of Quanzhou city. After the fourth-generation ancestor, Ding Shan, established the family base in Chendai, he entrusted the management of the ancestral graves to others. Later, Xu Fu, the son of the second manager Xu Fen, repeatedly encroached on the ancestral graveyard, and the Ding family endured this in silence. Eighteen years later, in 1505, the eighth-generation descendant Ding Yi passed the imperial examinations to become a jinshi. Upon returning home, he filed a lawsuit and finally reclaimed the ancestral tomb land.
During the Chongzhen reign of the Ming Dynasty, the descendants of the Ding family combined the graves of the first, second, and third generations. In 1993, due to road construction, many of the Chendai Ding family's tomb stones were moved from outside the East Gate of Quanzhou and Luyuan to the Lingshan Sacred Tomb. The current combined tomb of the first, second, and third generations was also renovated during this period. The tomb stones and tombstones seen today are not the original ones.


After the Ming Dynasty, the Chendai Ding family claimed their ancestor was the Yuan Dynasty politician Sayyid Ajjal Shams al-Din, so the cemetery features inscriptions identifying them as descendants of a saint.



In the cemetery, you can also see the Basmala (tasimi) auspicious bird of the Chendai Ding family.




The tomb of the fourth-generation Chendai Ding family ancestor, Ding Shan, and his wife, Zhuang Xiniang.
Ding Shan (1343-1420), also known as Yanren and Ren'an, moved from Quanzhou to Chendai with his father at the end of the Yuan Dynasty. In the early Ming Dynasty, he settled in Chendai and established the Ding family clan. His wife, Zhuang Xiniang, also known as Runxiu, was the sixth-generation granddaughter of Zhuang Xia, who was named a founding baron and junior preceptor during the Southern Song Dynasty. The Zhuang family was very powerful at the end of the Southern Song Dynasty, but they gradually declined after the Yuan Dynasty. Many relatives left Quanzhou, and only Zhuang Xiniang's father remained in the Zhuang family mansion in the south of the city. The Ding and Zhuang families were neighbors at the time, so they married. Shortly after the wedding, Ding Shan and his father moved to Chendai. The Ding family's move to Chendai was likely related to Zhuang Xiniang, because the Zhuang clan lived nearby in Qingyang, a powerful group known as the Qingyang Zhuang family.
Ding Shan and his wife Zhuang Xiniang were originally buried in Luyuan, east of Quanzhou city. Luyuan means 'Paradise,' which is what the Quran refers to as the 'Garden of Heaven'. The tombstone is a traditional Islamic greenstone (huilvyan) tomb. Two five-story, pedestal-style tombstones sit on a Sumeru-style altar platform. The fourth layer of the tombstone is carved with scripture (2:255).









Tombs of the fifth-generation Ding Guanbao, sixth-generation Ding Kuan, and sixth-generation Ding Min.
Ding Guanbao (1369-1436), also known as Shifu and Chengzhai, was Ding Shan's second son and the founder of the second branch of the Chendai Ding family. He was originally buried at the foot of Shuiniulin, east of Quanzhou city.
Ding Kuan (1395-1446), also known as Tingyu and Longyin, was Ding Guanbao's second son. He was originally buried to the left of Ding Shan's tomb in Luyuan Mountain.
Ding Min (1407-1456), also known as Tingxue and Yizhai, was Ding Guanbao's fourth son. He was originally buried at the foot of Shuiniulin, east of Quanzhou city. Ding Min was the first local scholar among the Chendai Ding family to promote literary education.


Tomb of the fifth-generation Ding Mabao of the Chendai Ding family, with his wife Pu and his successor wife Wang.
Ding Mabao (1366-1431), also known as Shilong and Yi'an, was the eldest son of the fourth-generation founder Ding Shan. He was the founder of the first branch of the Chendai Ding family and was originally buried with his two wives at the Chenggui Baoxue site on Daping Mountain, east of Quanzhou city.


Tomb of the fifth-generation Ding Fubao and his wife Shi Dingniang.
Ding Fubao (1375-1432), also known as Shizhang and Yingjie, was Ding Shan's third son and the founder of the third branch of the Chendai Ding family. He is buried at Lingshan, east of Quanzhou city. The tomb features two pedestal-style stone graves on a traditional Islamic Sumeru-style altar platform, with swastikas and two lions playing with a ball carved into the waist of the platform.





Tombs of the sixth-generation Ding Xin and his wife Cai, and the seventh-generation Ding Lun and his wife Zhuang.









Tomb of the twenty-second generation Ding Jinke.
Ding Jinke (1923-1997), whose Islamic name was Yunus, studied at the Guangxi Chengda Normal School and the Hong Kong Dade College. In the early 1920s, the famous Hui Muslim Tang Kesan served as the director of the Xiamen Customs. He recommended his fellow townsman Zhang Guangyu to lead Islamic affairs in the Quanzhou area. After Imam Zhang Guangyu arrived in Quanzhou, he worked diligently on religious affairs, and the Islamic faith began to revive in Chendai. In 1939, the Chenjiang Branch of the China Islamic National Salvation Association was established in Chendai. Some members of the Ding family in Chendai went to the Qingjing Mosque in Quanzhou for their weekly Friday prayer (jumu'ah). Later, they converted the Wenchang Shrine in Sijing Village into a mosque and invited Imam Tie from Quanzhou to lead the religious affairs. Between 1937 and 1944, the Chengda Normal School moved south to Guilin. Its founders, Tang Kesan and Imam Ma Songting, accepted 17 young men from the Ding family in Chendai to study there, including Ding Jinke.
Ding Jinke joined the revolution during the War of Liberation. Later, he worked for the Financial and Economic Committee of the State Council and at various colleges and universities in Beijing and Xinjiang. He retired and returned to his hometown in 1983. In 1983, when the Fujian Islamic Association was founded, Ding Jinke, along with fellow Chengda Normal School graduates Ding Jinshun, Ding Jinhe, Ding Jinhong, and over twenty other dedicated community members, formed the Chendai Islamic Association Group to begin reviving religious activities. They borrowed the second-floor meeting room of the Chendai Hui Ethnic Affairs Committee and the back hall of the Ding Family Ancestral Hall to hold their Friday prayer (jumu'ah).
After years of hard work, Ding Jinke and other friends (dosti) raised funds to build the Chendai Mosque. The mosque was completed in 1991 and officially opened in 1993, with Ding Jinke serving as the first director of the mosque management committee. Soon after, the Jinjiang Islamic Association was established, and Ding Jinke served as its executive deputy director. After the 1990s, Ding Jinke helped dozens of young people from the Ding family in Chendai go to study religious knowledge both at home and abroad, with some attending Arabic language schools in Inner Mongolia.




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Summary: This article visits the Lingshan Holy Tomb in Quanzhou, one of the city's key Islamic heritage sites linked to early Muslim history on China's coast. It keeps the original tomb details, inscriptions, photographs, names, and historical context for readers studying Quanzhou Muslim heritage.
Lingshan Holy Tomb is in the east of Quanzhou city, also known as the Tomb of the Three and Four Sages. The story of the Three and Four Sages mainly comes from the Min Shu: Fang Yu Zhi written by He Qiaoyuan in 1629 (the second year of the Chongzhen reign of the Ming Dynasty). The Min Shu quotes a legend that four disciples of the Prophet Muhammad came to the Tang Dynasty to spread the faith during the Wude period (618-626). One sage went to Guangzhou, two went to Yangzhou, and the third and fourth went to Quanzhou. After the third and fourth sages passed away, they were buried in Quanzhou, where their graves glowed at night, making them holy sites.
In reality, Lingshan was a burial ground for monks from Chengtian Mosque from the Five Dynasties period to the Southern Song Dynasty. It was only abandoned after Chengtian Mosque failed in its resistance against the Yuan Dynasty at the end of the Southern Song. According to the Record of Burying Foreign Merchants at Dongban in Quanzhou by Lin Zhiqi, a Southern Song official, a merchant from the ancient Iranian port of Siraf followed the suggestion of Pu Xiasin to donate money and buy land to build the first tomb for foreign merchants at Dongban in Quanzhou. The cemetery was started in 1162 (the 32nd year of the Shaoxing reign of the Southern Song) and finished in 1163 (the first year of the Longxing reign).
The holy tomb has a stone tablet from the Yuan Dynasty dated 1322, written in Arabic, which says: These two deceased came to this land during the time of the Faghur. It is said they were men of great virtue, so after death, they moved from the earthly world to the eternal one. According to research by Chen Dasheng in A Preliminary Study of the Date of Lingshan Holy Tomb in Quanzhou, Faghur is an Arabic transliteration of the Persian word Bagh pur, which specifically referred to the Emperor of China in Persian literature from the Five Dynasties to the Song and Yuan periods.
According to the Quanzhou Prefecture Gazetteer, when Zhou Daoguang, the prefect of Quanzhou, visited Lingshan Holy Tomb in 1562 (the 41st year of the Jiajing reign of the Ming Dynasty), he mentioned there were three mounds, which were the holy tombs. The Min Shu Chao, written during the Chongzhen reign, records that the owner of the third tomb was Gao Di Shi Xu Ba Ba. In the 1930s, the wooden frame of the pavilion at Lingshan Holy Tomb had collapsed, leaving only four stone shuttle-shaped pillars. At that time, the three Sumeru-style stone tombs arranged in a triangle were still well-preserved, with stone covers on top.
In 1958, the Quanzhou Cultural Bureau and the municipal committee moved the tombstone of Gao Di Shi Xu Ba Ba to the northern hillside to fit the legend in the Min Shu. At the same time, they moved the tombstone of the imam Ma Ahun Yongchun (Ma Yongchun) from the south of the holy tomb to the northern hillside. In March 1959, a new stone pavilion was built with three levels of terraces and stairs on both sides. All other tombstones in front of the graves were removed to create a lawn, forming the layout seen today.
The holy tomb currently has two granite graves divided into three layers, with lotus petal carvings on the bottom layer. In the past, during Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha, Hui Muslims in Quanzhou would attend prayers at Qingjing Mosque. First, an imam would lead the heads of households to visit the homes of other Hui Muslims near the mosque for a greeting, and then all the Hui Muslims would go together to visit the graves at Lingshan. When visiting the graves, they would first recite the Quran together at the holy tomb before going to their own family graves.









The archway and gate in front of Lingshan Holy Tomb, the banyan trees on Lingshan Avenue, and the national and provincial heritage site markers, introduction boards, and notices at the holy tomb.









The historical stone tablets at Lingshan Holy Tomb.
The Incense Offering Tablet: This records the visit of Zheng He to the graves before his fifth voyage to the Western Oceans in 1417 (the 15th year of the Yongle reign), erected by the commander Pu Heri. The name Hulumesi carved on the tablet refers to the ancient Persian port of Hormuz.

The Chen Yougong Repair Tablet: Erected in 1714 (the 53rd year of the Kangxi reign), it records the repair of Lingshan Holy Tomb by Chen Yougong, a regional commander in Fujian, and Chen Mei, a regional military official. The inscription below lists seven surnames: Chen, Ma, Guo, Huang, Li, Yang, Pu, and Ding.

The Xia Bidi Repair Tablet: Records the repair of the holy tomb by the director Xia Bidi in 1751 (the 16th year of the Qianlong reign).

The Guo Bacui Repair Tablet: Records the repair of the holy tomb by the scholar Guo Bacui in 1783 (the 48th year of the Qianlong reign). Guo Bacui was a Hui Muslim from the Guo family in Baiqi. He passed the military examination in 1779 (the 40th year of the Qianlong reign), was awarded the rank of military officer, and served in the Anping Left Battalion in Taiwan. When he erected the tablet in 1783, he was stationed in Xiamen and ordered to patrol the coastal areas of Taiwan and Penghu. In 1787 (the 52nd year of the Qianlong reign), the Lin Shuangwen uprising in Taiwan besieged Zhuluo County. Guo Bacui was ordered to rush to the rescue and died on the battlefield.


The Ma Jianji renovation stele records that in 1818 (the 23rd year of the Jiaqing reign), Ma Jianji, the acting commander-in-chief of the Fujian provincial land forces and general of Zhangzhou from Western Sichuan, rebuilt the tomb pavilion. The stele calls the Holy Tomb the 'Baba Tomb,' with 'Baba' being the Persian term of respect for an elder. Ma Jianji was from Nanchong, Sichuan. Besides renovating the Lingshan Holy Tomb, he also renovated the Qingjing Mosque in Quanzhou.

The Jiang Changgui renovation stele records that in 1871 (the 10th year of the Tongzhi reign), Fujian commander Jiang Changgui renovated the Holy Tomb. Jiang Changgui was a Hui Muslim from Yanting, Sichuan. His family practiced martial arts for generations. He was brave in battle, led troops against the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom for many years, earned many military merits, and was titled Zhiyong Baturu and General Jianwei. Besides renovating the Lingshan Holy Tomb, he also renovated the Qingjing Mosque and invited the army imam Ma Yongchun to lead religious affairs.

Beside the Holy Tomb is a 'Wind-Moving Stone' (fengdongshi). It features the inscription 'Jade Ball' (biyu qiu) by Quanzhou prefect Zhou Daoguang in 1563 (the 42nd year of the Jiajing reign) and 'Natural Ingenuity' (tianran jimiyao) by Ma Jianji in 1818 (the 23rd year of the Jiaqing reign).
Zhou Daoguang was the first person to record the term 'Lingshan Holy Tomb'. The Quanzhou Prefecture Gazetteer, Mountains and Rivers, Lingshan section records: 'Asking the locals, they say: This is the Lingshan Holy Tomb... Since the religion from foreign lands entered the Middle Kingdom, there have been Hui Muslims.' Its founder's surname and generation are unknown, but he loved this hill and was buried here...' He also described the tomb's layout at the time: 'Entering the gate, the path is very narrow.' Climbing to the hall, the atmosphere feels different. Reaching the top, there are three mounds, which are the Holy Tombs. In front of the tomb, there is a small pavilion on the right for namaz. On the left, there is a shed where one can rest.


In 1958, when the Fuzhou-Xiamen highway outside the East Gate of Quanzhou was widened, several Song and Yuan dynasty Muslim pedestal-style tomb stones by the road were moved next to the Lingshan Holy Tomb. That same year, farmers in Jintoupu village outside Tonghuai Gate in Quanzhou were collecting fertilizer and dredging pond sludge. They unearthed over ten pedestal-style tomb stones, which were temporarily moved to the Qingjing Mosque and later moved to the Lingshan Holy Tomb for preservation. That same year, residents on Tonghuai Street in Quanzhou unearthed three side-by-side pedestal-style tomb stones while building a house, which were also moved to the Lingshan Holy Tomb for preservation.








The image below is likely the tomb stone of Gaodi Shixu Baba, which was originally with the 'Three Sages and Four Sages' tomb stones and moved here during the 1958 renovation.

Details of the Arabic stone carving. The content of the carving is entirely scripture, with no identity information about the tomb owner. According to Quanzhou's Song and Yuan dynasty traditions, the tomb stone recording the owner's identity would have been a separate slab.









Next to the Lingshan Holy Tomb is the cemetery for local Quanzhou Hui Muslims. The Ge, Ma, and Huang families are descendants of the generations of imams from the Qingjing Mosque. They mostly worked in the leather industry in the past and lived inside the Qingjing Mosque until 1983. In the past, Quanzhou Hui Muslims would come here to visit the graves every Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha. When visiting the graves, first light some incense (anxixiang), then trace the carvings on the tombstone with red paint, and finally invite an imam to recite scriptures.
In the tomb complex, you can see the ancestral graves of the Huang family from Jiangxia and the Huang family from Yanshan. The Jiangxia Huang family ancestral grave is inscribed with 'Mosque Huang Residence,' while the Yanshan Huang family grave bears inscriptions like 'First Year of the Xuantong Reign' and 'Imperially Appointed Fifth-Rank Official... Land Route Commander...' which are hard to read completely due to the red paint.









According to their family records, the Guo family of Hui Muslims originally lived in Guo Family Village in Fuyang, Hangzhou, before arriving in Quanzhou during the Yuan Dynasty. During the Hongwu reign of the Ming Dynasty, Guo Zhongyuan moved from Quanzhou to Baiqipu on the opposite side of Houzhu Port, which eventually became the present-day Baiqi Hui Ethnic Township. The Baiqi Guo family left the faith in 1607 (the 35th year of the Wanli reign of the Ming Dynasty). In 1709 (the 48th year of the Kangxi reign), Chen Yougong, a regional commander and left-wing general for the Fujian Ting, Yan, and Shao areas, came to Quanzhou to revive the faith and established scripture hall education at the Qingjing Mosque. At that time, Guo Honglong, a member of the eighth generation of the Guo family's fourth branch, moved from He Cuo in Baiqipu to live at the Qingjing Mosque and returned to the faith, citing the need to strengthen the main family line. After Guo Honglong returned to the faith, his descendants lived at the Qingjing Mosque. His descendant, Guo Shifu, helped renovate the mosque in 1794 (the 59th year of the Qianlong reign) alongside Bai Yunhan, a deputy general of the Zhangzhou Left Battalion.









A large section of the Lingshan Sacred Tomb scenic area is dedicated to the Ding family cemetery from Chendai.
According to family records, the first-generation ancestor of the Chendai Ding family, Ding Jin (1251-1298), was originally from Suzhou and settled in Quanzhou for business. The Chendai Ding family maintained their faith for ten generations, spanning over two hundred years from the 13th to the 16th century. Ding Yanxia, the tenth-generation descendant born around 1517, wrote detailed accounts of the religious customs he experienced as a child in his work, 'On Ancestral Faith' (Zujiao Shuo). However, calculations suggest that by the eighth to ninth generation, the Chendai Ding family no longer prioritized scripture hall education. The remaining relics of the faith belonging to the Chendai Ding family are the several Ming Dynasty tomb stones located within the Lingshan Sacred Tomb.
Before the Ding family established their base in Chendai, the first, second, and third generations were all buried at Lingshan, east of Quanzhou city. After the fourth-generation ancestor, Ding Shan, established the family base in Chendai, he entrusted the management of the ancestral graves to others. Later, Xu Fu, the son of the second manager Xu Fen, repeatedly encroached on the ancestral graveyard, and the Ding family endured this in silence. Eighteen years later, in 1505, the eighth-generation descendant Ding Yi passed the imperial examinations to become a jinshi. Upon returning home, he filed a lawsuit and finally reclaimed the ancestral tomb land.
During the Chongzhen reign of the Ming Dynasty, the descendants of the Ding family combined the graves of the first, second, and third generations. In 1993, due to road construction, many of the Chendai Ding family's tomb stones were moved from outside the East Gate of Quanzhou and Luyuan to the Lingshan Sacred Tomb. The current combined tomb of the first, second, and third generations was also renovated during this period. The tomb stones and tombstones seen today are not the original ones.


After the Ming Dynasty, the Chendai Ding family claimed their ancestor was the Yuan Dynasty politician Sayyid Ajjal Shams al-Din, so the cemetery features inscriptions identifying them as descendants of a saint.



In the cemetery, you can also see the Basmala (tasimi) auspicious bird of the Chendai Ding family.




The tomb of the fourth-generation Chendai Ding family ancestor, Ding Shan, and his wife, Zhuang Xiniang.
Ding Shan (1343-1420), also known as Yanren and Ren'an, moved from Quanzhou to Chendai with his father at the end of the Yuan Dynasty. In the early Ming Dynasty, he settled in Chendai and established the Ding family clan. His wife, Zhuang Xiniang, also known as Runxiu, was the sixth-generation granddaughter of Zhuang Xia, who was named a founding baron and junior preceptor during the Southern Song Dynasty. The Zhuang family was very powerful at the end of the Southern Song Dynasty, but they gradually declined after the Yuan Dynasty. Many relatives left Quanzhou, and only Zhuang Xiniang's father remained in the Zhuang family mansion in the south of the city. The Ding and Zhuang families were neighbors at the time, so they married. Shortly after the wedding, Ding Shan and his father moved to Chendai. The Ding family's move to Chendai was likely related to Zhuang Xiniang, because the Zhuang clan lived nearby in Qingyang, a powerful group known as the Qingyang Zhuang family.
Ding Shan and his wife Zhuang Xiniang were originally buried in Luyuan, east of Quanzhou city. Luyuan means 'Paradise,' which is what the Quran refers to as the 'Garden of Heaven'. The tombstone is a traditional Islamic greenstone (huilvyan) tomb. Two five-story, pedestal-style tombstones sit on a Sumeru-style altar platform. The fourth layer of the tombstone is carved with scripture (2:255).









Tombs of the fifth-generation Ding Guanbao, sixth-generation Ding Kuan, and sixth-generation Ding Min.
Ding Guanbao (1369-1436), also known as Shifu and Chengzhai, was Ding Shan's second son and the founder of the second branch of the Chendai Ding family. He was originally buried at the foot of Shuiniulin, east of Quanzhou city.
Ding Kuan (1395-1446), also known as Tingyu and Longyin, was Ding Guanbao's second son. He was originally buried to the left of Ding Shan's tomb in Luyuan Mountain.
Ding Min (1407-1456), also known as Tingxue and Yizhai, was Ding Guanbao's fourth son. He was originally buried at the foot of Shuiniulin, east of Quanzhou city. Ding Min was the first local scholar among the Chendai Ding family to promote literary education.


Tomb of the fifth-generation Ding Mabao of the Chendai Ding family, with his wife Pu and his successor wife Wang.
Ding Mabao (1366-1431), also known as Shilong and Yi'an, was the eldest son of the fourth-generation founder Ding Shan. He was the founder of the first branch of the Chendai Ding family and was originally buried with his two wives at the Chenggui Baoxue site on Daping Mountain, east of Quanzhou city.


Tomb of the fifth-generation Ding Fubao and his wife Shi Dingniang.
Ding Fubao (1375-1432), also known as Shizhang and Yingjie, was Ding Shan's third son and the founder of the third branch of the Chendai Ding family. He is buried at Lingshan, east of Quanzhou city. The tomb features two pedestal-style stone graves on a traditional Islamic Sumeru-style altar platform, with swastikas and two lions playing with a ball carved into the waist of the platform.





Tombs of the sixth-generation Ding Xin and his wife Cai, and the seventh-generation Ding Lun and his wife Zhuang.









Tomb of the twenty-second generation Ding Jinke.
Ding Jinke (1923-1997), whose Islamic name was Yunus, studied at the Guangxi Chengda Normal School and the Hong Kong Dade College. In the early 1920s, the famous Hui Muslim Tang Kesan served as the director of the Xiamen Customs. He recommended his fellow townsman Zhang Guangyu to lead Islamic affairs in the Quanzhou area. After Imam Zhang Guangyu arrived in Quanzhou, he worked diligently on religious affairs, and the Islamic faith began to revive in Chendai. In 1939, the Chenjiang Branch of the China Islamic National Salvation Association was established in Chendai. Some members of the Ding family in Chendai went to the Qingjing Mosque in Quanzhou for their weekly Friday prayer (jumu'ah). Later, they converted the Wenchang Shrine in Sijing Village into a mosque and invited Imam Tie from Quanzhou to lead the religious affairs. Between 1937 and 1944, the Chengda Normal School moved south to Guilin. Its founders, Tang Kesan and Imam Ma Songting, accepted 17 young men from the Ding family in Chendai to study there, including Ding Jinke.
Ding Jinke joined the revolution during the War of Liberation. Later, he worked for the Financial and Economic Committee of the State Council and at various colleges and universities in Beijing and Xinjiang. He retired and returned to his hometown in 1983. In 1983, when the Fujian Islamic Association was founded, Ding Jinke, along with fellow Chengda Normal School graduates Ding Jinshun, Ding Jinhe, Ding Jinhong, and over twenty other dedicated community members, formed the Chendai Islamic Association Group to begin reviving religious activities. They borrowed the second-floor meeting room of the Chendai Hui Ethnic Affairs Committee and the back hall of the Ding Family Ancestral Hall to hold their Friday prayer (jumu'ah).
After years of hard work, Ding Jinke and other friends (dosti) raised funds to build the Chendai Mosque. The mosque was completed in 1991 and officially opened in 1993, with Ding Jinke serving as the first director of the mosque management committee. Soon after, the Jinjiang Islamic Association was established, and Ding Jinke served as its executive deputy director. After the 1990s, Ding Jinke helped dozens of young people from the Ding family in Chendai go to study religious knowledge both at home and abroad, with some attending Arabic language schools in Inner Mongolia.




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Halal Food Guide: Shaomai - Lamb, Sticky Rice and Cantonese Styles
Reposted from the web
Summary: This food note compares lamb steamed dumplings, sticky rice steamed dumplings, and Cantonese-style shaomai through taste, texture, and regional food habits. It keeps the original dish names, photos, restaurant details, and eating notes for readers interested in halal Chinese food.
Historical records show that people in Beijing were eating minced meat steamed dumplings (shaomai) as early as the Yuan Dynasty. In the late Yuan and early Ming dynasties, a textbook for Koreans learning Chinese called 'Pak Tongsa Eonhae' described the customs of the Yuan capital, Dadu, and included several notes on shaomai: 'Made from wheat flour dough rolled into thin sheets, filled with meat, and steamed, then eaten with soup. The local dialect calls them shaomai, with the character mai sometimes written as the character for sell... The skin is thin, filled with chopped meat, and the top is gathered tightly like a tied thread, hence the name shaomai... Made with a flour skin and meat filling, the top is shaped like a flower bud, which the local dialect calls shaomai'.
Currently, shaomai can be divided into three main categories: northern meat-filled shaomai, southern sticky rice shaomai, and Cantonese-style siu mai. Northern shaomai are common in Inner Mongolia, Shanxi, North China, and the Northeast. Southern shaomai are found in the Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Hubei regions, while Cantonese-style siu mai are widely distributed across Southeast Asia due to migration.
I will share some of the shaomai I have eaten, including lamb, sticky rice, and Cantonese styles.
Lamb shaomai at Balizhuang Mosque in Beijing.
On the eleventh day of Ramadan in 2024, the elders at Balizhuang Mosque outside Chaoyangmen made shaomai together in the afternoon. The skins were thin, the meat filling was generous and fragrant, and dipping them in Laba vinegar really brought out the flavor. They also fried chicken strips and cooked rice porridge. I met three sisters from Yunnan who came specifically for this, and I felt very grateful to Allah.




Lianying Inner Mongolia Shaomai in Beijing.
There is a branch of the old Jining, Inner Mongolia brand Lianying Shaomai near Huguosi in Beijing. I ate their wild onion (shacong) and lamb, lamb leg, and vegetarian three-delicacy shaomai. The wild onion has a strong flavor, somewhere between green onion and chives. The lamb leg version uses large green onions, which suits most people's tastes, and the small chunks of lamb have a nice chew. The vegetarian three-delicacy filling is made of chives, eggs, shiitake mushrooms, wood ear mushrooms, and shrimp, giving it a rich texture.



Annei Laoma Inner Mongolia Shaomai in Beijing.
Inside Andingmen in Beijing, there is a shop called Annei Laoma Shaomai run by Hui Muslims from Hohhot. I had their beef and fennel shaomai and lamb offal soup. They serve authentic Hohhot-style food. The shaomai tasted fine, but they were very oily, leaving a greasy feeling in my mouth afterward. The lamb offal soup also tasted fine, but it was not made to order, and the texture suffered after sitting for a while.



Indonesian Siomay at the Beijing Indonesian Cultural Festival.
I attended the annual Indonesian Cultural Festival at the Indonesian Embassy. We started by eating Indonesian siomay. Indonesian siomay originated from Cantonese siu mai. It was first adapted by the Sundanese people of West Java, who replaced the pork filling with fish and added side dishes like cabbage, tofu, potatoes, boiled eggs, and stuffed bitter melon. It is served with peanut sauce and sweet soy sauce and is now a classic street snack across Indonesia.


Lamb shaomai in Shanhaiguan, Hebei.
Yingxinyuan Restaurant is located not far south of the mosque on Guancheng West Road. The elders at the mosque recommended it to me, saying they host guests from the mosque there. I arrived after 3:00 PM. The cook finished my meal and then took a break, as the afternoon shift didn't start until 4:30 PM. The owner said they usually don't have many customers after 2:00 PM, so I was quite lucky. Knowing that portions get bigger the further northeast you go, I ordered a steamer of beef and cabbage steamed dumplings (shaomai) and a plate of sweet and sour pork tenderloin (tangcu liji), but I still couldn't finish it all. The taste was excellent, though! The even larger Qinhuangdao mixed hot pot (hunguo) will have to wait until I can come back with a group of people.


Lamb steamed dumplings (shaomai) in Chengde, Hebei.
In the morning, I had almond tea (xingren cha), meatball soup (wanzi tang), steamed dumplings (shaomai), and steamed dumplings (zhengjiao) at the famous Tuojie Snacks in Chengde. There are many halal snacks in the Shaanxiying area of Chengde, including lamb soup (yangtang), buckwheat noodles (heluo mian), door-nail meat pies (mending roubing), steamed dumplings (shaomai), almond tea (xingren cha), stomach-wrapped meat (dubaorou), stomach-wrapped brains (dubaonao), lamb neck skewers (yangbo chuan), fermented bean drink (douzhi), and bowl jelly (wantuo).
Since the Qing Dynasty built the Mountain Resort in 1703, Hui Muslims have gradually settled in Chengde. Whenever Emperor Kangxi held the Mulan autumn hunt or came to the resort to escape the summer heat, Hui Muslim officers, soldiers, and merchants would follow him. In the early years of Emperor Yongzheng's reign, the Qing government stationed Green Standard Army troops in Chengde. Because most of the officers and soldiers came from Shaanxi, it was called Shaanxiying, and the 'Left Battalion' among them was mostly made up of Hui Muslims. From then on, Shaanxiying became a residential area for Hui Muslims in Chengde.
By the time of Emperor Qianlong, Chengde had become a major metropolis north of the Great Wall. Hui Muslims from Shandong and Hebei flocked there to do business, working in the food industry and cattle and sheep slaughtering, which was known as 'chasing the imperial camp' (gan huangying). Today, the ten major surnames of Chengde's Hui Muslims, such as Wang, Ma, Shi, and Chen, all moved from Shandong, while the Wu surname moved from Cangzhou, Hebei, and the Kong surname moved from Beijing.




Lamb steamed dumplings (shaomai) in Datong, Shanxi.
I took the high-speed train from Beijing to Datong in the morning. After getting off, I headed straight to the famous Fuxingzhai Shaomai on Jiaochang Street for lunch, where I ordered steamed dumplings (shaomai), Mongolian salty milk tea (menggu xian naicha), a basin of egg soup (penpen jidan tang), and oil-seared meat (guoyou rou). Their steamed dumplings (shaomai) were truly delicious and went great with the milk tea.



Lamb steamed dumplings (shaomei) in Taiyuan, Shanxi.
The street-front shops outside the old mosque in Taiyuan were built when Dananmen Street was widened. On both sides of the main gate are beef and mutton shops, and there is one on the south side that always has a long line. A little further south is the Huifengyuan restaurant, which sells steamed dumplings (shaomei), lamb soup (yangtang), meatball soup (wanzi tang), and various other snacks. I had lamb soup (yangrou tang) and steamed dumplings (shaomei) here, and both were exceptionally good.
Since the Ming and Qing dynasties, Hui Muslims in Taiyuan have lived in the area around the South Gate of the old city. During the Qing Dynasty, Taiyuan had over a hundred local Hui Muslim households, plus a dozen or so Hui Muslim households who came from Suiyuan to do business, totaling five or six hundred people. After the Zhengtai Railway opened in 1907, the number of Hui Muslims coming to Taiyuan from Hebei increased significantly, reaching over 1,000 in the 1930s and over 5,100 in the early days of the People's Republic of China.





Lamb steamed dumplings (shaomai) in Hohhot, Inner Mongolia.
I ate steamed dumplings (shaomai) and drank brick tea at Qingyuanchun on Nanshuncheng Street. I personally like this place; I ate here during my previous visit to Hohhot as well.
Qingyuanchun is a long-standing shaomai shop. In 1796 (the first year of the Jiaqing reign), Li Chun started selling shaomai from a wheelbarrow in Guihua City. He made them on the spot, and they were very popular. In 1828 (the eighth year of the Daoguang reign), Li Chun's son, Li Guangyuan, rented two wooden rooms outside the Lanma Wall in Guihua City and officially opened the Qingyuanchun shaomai shop. In 1956, brothers Li Hongtu and Li Mingqing renovated the thirty-square-meter shop and reopened it. The fifth generation, Li Jiting, took over in 1963, and the sixth generation, Li Yongqing, took over in 2009. It is a famous halal shaomai shop in Hohhot.




Lamb shaomai in Shenyang, Liaoning.
I took a high-speed train from Beijing Chaoyang Station to Shenyang in the evening. The next morning, I went to the Lijiang Morning Market in Shenyang and had lamb soup, shaomai, and pan-fried meat pies (huitou) at Heige Lamb Soup. The breakfast stalls at the morning market are all about being affordable! Shaomai cost 7 yuan per steamer, and meat pies cost 2 yuan each. It is hard to find prices like this in a restaurant. They make everything fresh to order. The lamb in the soup is fresh meat the owner cuts at home. He slices it thin, and it cooks quickly when swished in the hot soup, keeping it very tender.




Lamb shaomai in Jinzhou, Liaoning.
I took a train from Beijing Chaoyang Station to Jinzhou North Station in the morning, then had a steamer of shaomai and a bowl of lamb soup in Jinzhou. The price was very affordable.


Lamb shaomai in Luyang, Liaoning.
After getting off at Goubangzi Railway Station, I took a 10-minute taxi ride to Luyang Town in the west. Luyang Mosque is not far from the Luyang Bridge. We were warmly welcomed at Luyang Mosque. Director Jin of the mosque management committee treated us to a hearty meal at his restaurant, Donglaishun. Director Jin's ancestral home was Xiaoxinzhuang in Jinan, Shandong. His ancestors moved to Guozhiwa in Hejian, Hebei, and then to Yingkou, Liaoning, before finally settling in Luyang Town during the Republic of China era. Director Jin has been the director of Luyang Mosque for over a decade. He knows the local history and folklore of Luyang very well and told us several very interesting local legends.
Besides the large portions, the food was super delicious. The most notable dish was the shaomai; I can even say it was the best I have ever had! Their shaomai are a bit like the thin-skinned buns (baozi) from Xinjiang. The skin is so thin you can see the filling inside. The onion flavor stands out, the saltiness is just right, and they are not greasy but very fragrant.




Lamb shaomai in Harbin, Heilongjiang.
I ate shaomai at Lao Guo Jia Guan, a century-old halal shop on Desheng Street in the Daowai District of Harbin. We actually discovered this place by accident while passing by in a taxi the night before. As a son-in-law of the Guo family, I happened to be talking to my wife about how rarely we see halal restaurants opened by the Guo family, and then I turned my head and saw this place! I quickly noted it down on my phone and went to eat there the next day.
Guo Jia Guan was founded by Guo Shaoxian in 1927 on Zhengyang 11th Street in Daowai. The 1933 'Guide to Greater Harbin' already recorded that Guo Jia Guan served various dishes and catered banquets. Guo Jia Guan was also listed in documents like the 1934 Harbin Daowai Business Directory and the 1937 Harbin Special Municipality Daowai Business and Industry Directory.
Guo Shaoxian was originally from Zhangluji in Shen County, Liaocheng, Shandong. He came to Harbin in the early 1920s during the migration to the Northeast. It is said he started by carrying a basket to sell steamed buns (baozi) on the streets. After saving enough money, he opened Guo Jia Guan on Zhengyang 11th Street in Daowai. Before the public-private partnership, Guo Jia Guan was nearly 100 square meters with 12 large square tables. They served various stir-fried dishes, including braised meat strips (baoroutiao), stir-fried tripe (liuduling), stir-fried clear mirror (liumingjing), crispy fried meat strips (jiaoshaoroutiao), and sweet and sour pork (guobaorou). Head chef Ma Bingsheng was a veteran at Guo Jia Guan with excellent culinary skills. The pastry chef was Jin Guangli. He was skilled at making pan-fried dumplings (guolao), water-fried buns (shuijianbao), meat pies (xianbing), steamed dumplings (shaomai), and steamed dumplings (zhengjiao). The skin of his meat pies was so thin you could see the filling inside.
After the public-private partnership in 1956, Guo Jia Guan merged with several other Hui Muslim restaurants, including Huaxing Hao, to form the Daowai Hui Muslim Restaurant. Guo Shaoxian was assigned to work as a pastry chef at Xiangyang Restaurant (formerly Wu Ji Renyi Restaurant) on Jingyang Street until he retired. Among Guo's descendants, the only one to inherit his skills was his grand-nephew, Guo Dalin. Guo Dalin was born in 1937 in Zhangluji, Shen County, Liaocheng, Shandong. In 1953, at age 16, he moved to Harbin to join his great-uncle Guo Shaoxian and began his apprenticeship at Guo Jia Guan. After the 1956 public-private partnership, Guo Dalin worked at the Daowai Hui Muslim Restaurant. In 1983, he revived the old Guo Jia Guan name. In 2003, he reopened the old Guo Jia Guan on Desheng Street. It has been 20 years since then, and the restaurant is now managed by his granddaughter.
The old Guo Jia Guan does not have many online reviews and has barely advertised itself. It is a down-to-earth local neighborhood spot. They serve classic Harbin Hui Muslim dishes. We ordered stir-fried clear mirror (liumingjing), stir-fried tofu with hot peppers (jianjiaogandoufu), fresh mushroom with meat slices (xianmoroupian), and steamed dumplings (shaomai). Everything was affordable and delicious.




Wuhan, Hubei sticky rice steamed dumplings (shaomei).
Before the demolition of Qiyi Street in Wuchang, there was a lively morning market every day, crowded with people and full of life. On Xiangbi Street (now the eastern section of Bao'an Street), which intersects with Qiyi Street, there was a halal breakfast spot called 'Halal Da Jia Red Oil Beef Noodle Shop.' It was open daily from around 6 or 7 a.m. to 10 a.m. I ate red oil beef thin noodles and a fried dough cake stuffed with a steamed dumpling (youbingjieshaomei) there. The sticky rice inside the steamed dumpling was very fragrant and sweet. This shop is gone now that Qiyi Street has been demolished.




Not far southeast of Qiyi Street, at the intersection of Ping'an Road and Hengping Road, there was another local Wuchang halal breakfast shop called 'Niu Chong Chong Hui Muslim Snack Bar.' The owner's family had lived on Qiyi Street for generations. I ate hot dry noodles (reganmian) and sticky rice, beef, and mushroom steamed dumplings (shaomei) there. Their beef noodles and fried dough cake stuffed with steamed dumplings (youbingbaoshaomei) were also very authentic. This shop is also no longer there today.




Nanjing, Jiangsu egg steamed dumplings (shaomai) and egg yolk steamed dumplings (shaomai).
During the Daoguang era, Ma Sifa, a Hui Muslim from Mengzhou, Henan, fled famine and came to Nanjing with his family. He set up a stall at Yuhuatai to sell beef soup, which people called the 'Ma Huihui Food Stall.' Later, Ma Sifa's son, Ma Shengxiang, officially founded the 'Ma Xiangxing' brand in Huihui Camp, specializing in beef-stewed radishes and stir-fried beef snacks.
In 1912, Ma Shengxiang moved the restaurant across from the Great Bao'en Mosque, focusing on the 'Eight Beef Dishes' (niubayang). At that time, Ma Xiangxing had a Hui Muslim head chef known as 'Old Seven,' who was skilled at making stir-fried tripe (baodusisi) and stir-fried chicken liver. After Ma Shengxiang passed away in 1925, his second son, Ma Deming, took over the business. Ma Xiangxing shifted from cooked food and small stir-fries to banquet dishes, while adding various local-style chicken, duck, fish, shrimp, and egg dishes. After the capital moved to Nanjing in 1927, Ma Xiangxing became increasingly famous under the cooking of head chef Ma Dingsong. At that time, various Republic of China officials became regulars at Ma Xiangxing. The Ministry of Foreign Affairs often hosted foreign guests there, and diplomats from various countries frequently held banquets at the restaurant. During this period, Ma Deming created four famous dishes: beauty liver (meiren gan), squirrel fish (songshu yu), phoenix tail shrimp (fengwei xia), and egg steamed dumplings (dan shaomai).
People say the egg steamed dumplings were invented by Ma Xiangxing head chef Jin Hongyi to suit the taste of Bai Chongxi. Egg steamed dumplings are made with a filling of shrimp, chicken fat, and egg whites, wrapped in a thin egg skin. After steaming, they are topped with a sauce made from chicken broth, water chestnut starch, and duck fat. Today, the ingredients for egg steamed dumplings are shrimp paste, celery, and eggs.



The snack bar on the first floor also serves egg yolk steamed dumplings.

Singapore fresh shrimp and chicken Cantonese-style steamed dumplings (shaomai).
The Dim Sum Place is a very famous halal Cantonese-style tea restaurant in Singapore. It specializes in Cantonese dim sum and various Cantonese dishes, offering a wide variety. They opened on North Bridge Road in Kampong Glam in 2016 and have since opened two more branches. They are very popular with Muslims.
We ordered steamed chicken feet with sauce, fresh shrimp and chicken steamed dumplings, roasted chicken char siu rice rolls, fish fillet porridge, and Pu'er tea. Since we were there for afternoon tea rather than a full meal, there were still many things we wanted to try but didn't order.



Malaysia Seremban fresh shrimp Cantonese-style steamed dumplings.
After taking a taxi 50 kilometers southeast from Kuala Lumpur Airport, you arrive in Seremban, the capital of Negeri Sembilan state. We first had morning tea at a Chinese Muslim restaurant called Muhammad Kew Chinese Muslim Kitchen. We ordered chicken char siu buns, wontons, Cantonese-style egg rice, and shrimp steamed dumplings, all of which were delicious. Unfortunately, the Chinese owner was busy in the kitchen, so we didn't get to meet him, but we did meet his Malay wife, who was warm and friendly. The steamed dumplings are filled with shrimp and minced meat, giving them a unique flavor.




Malaysia Malacca Cantonese-style steamed dumplings.
Chan Mari Chan is a sub-brand of the large Malaysian Chinese Muslim restaurant chain Mohd Chan, focusing on affordable home-style snacks. The founder of Mohd Chan, Dato HJ Mohd Chan, was born in Gombak, Selangor. Influenced by his Malay friends, he converted to Islam in 2007 and began running his restaurant that same year. He has since been combining Nanyang Chinese cuisine with Malay flavors and has built it into the most famous and largest Chinese Muslim restaurant chain in Malaysia.
In January this year, we ate at a Mohd Chan restaurant in Seremban, Malaysia. You order from a menu there, and they serve a variety of Nanyang Chinese banquet dishes, which are relatively high-end. Chan Mari Chan focuses on fast food and snacks where you pick up your food directly from the counter. Chicken rice, small bowl dishes, and steamed items are the most popular. We picked up roasted chicken rice, three small bowl dishes, two types of steamed dumplings, and drank herbal jelly coffee and cocoa coffee. Eating at their place wiped away the fatigue of our journey, and we instantly felt embraced by Nanyang culture, which was very satisfying.
Their environment is also very nice, and many Malay friends (dosti) come to eat there with their families. Their shop even has a prayer room, which makes them a great example for us Hui Muslims.


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Summary: This food note compares lamb steamed dumplings, sticky rice steamed dumplings, and Cantonese-style shaomai through taste, texture, and regional food habits. It keeps the original dish names, photos, restaurant details, and eating notes for readers interested in halal Chinese food.
Historical records show that people in Beijing were eating minced meat steamed dumplings (shaomai) as early as the Yuan Dynasty. In the late Yuan and early Ming dynasties, a textbook for Koreans learning Chinese called 'Pak Tongsa Eonhae' described the customs of the Yuan capital, Dadu, and included several notes on shaomai: 'Made from wheat flour dough rolled into thin sheets, filled with meat, and steamed, then eaten with soup. The local dialect calls them shaomai, with the character mai sometimes written as the character for sell... The skin is thin, filled with chopped meat, and the top is gathered tightly like a tied thread, hence the name shaomai... Made with a flour skin and meat filling, the top is shaped like a flower bud, which the local dialect calls shaomai'.
Currently, shaomai can be divided into three main categories: northern meat-filled shaomai, southern sticky rice shaomai, and Cantonese-style siu mai. Northern shaomai are common in Inner Mongolia, Shanxi, North China, and the Northeast. Southern shaomai are found in the Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Hubei regions, while Cantonese-style siu mai are widely distributed across Southeast Asia due to migration.
I will share some of the shaomai I have eaten, including lamb, sticky rice, and Cantonese styles.
Lamb shaomai at Balizhuang Mosque in Beijing.
On the eleventh day of Ramadan in 2024, the elders at Balizhuang Mosque outside Chaoyangmen made shaomai together in the afternoon. The skins were thin, the meat filling was generous and fragrant, and dipping them in Laba vinegar really brought out the flavor. They also fried chicken strips and cooked rice porridge. I met three sisters from Yunnan who came specifically for this, and I felt very grateful to Allah.




Lianying Inner Mongolia Shaomai in Beijing.
There is a branch of the old Jining, Inner Mongolia brand Lianying Shaomai near Huguosi in Beijing. I ate their wild onion (shacong) and lamb, lamb leg, and vegetarian three-delicacy shaomai. The wild onion has a strong flavor, somewhere between green onion and chives. The lamb leg version uses large green onions, which suits most people's tastes, and the small chunks of lamb have a nice chew. The vegetarian three-delicacy filling is made of chives, eggs, shiitake mushrooms, wood ear mushrooms, and shrimp, giving it a rich texture.



Annei Laoma Inner Mongolia Shaomai in Beijing.
Inside Andingmen in Beijing, there is a shop called Annei Laoma Shaomai run by Hui Muslims from Hohhot. I had their beef and fennel shaomai and lamb offal soup. They serve authentic Hohhot-style food. The shaomai tasted fine, but they were very oily, leaving a greasy feeling in my mouth afterward. The lamb offal soup also tasted fine, but it was not made to order, and the texture suffered after sitting for a while.



Indonesian Siomay at the Beijing Indonesian Cultural Festival.
I attended the annual Indonesian Cultural Festival at the Indonesian Embassy. We started by eating Indonesian siomay. Indonesian siomay originated from Cantonese siu mai. It was first adapted by the Sundanese people of West Java, who replaced the pork filling with fish and added side dishes like cabbage, tofu, potatoes, boiled eggs, and stuffed bitter melon. It is served with peanut sauce and sweet soy sauce and is now a classic street snack across Indonesia.


Lamb shaomai in Shanhaiguan, Hebei.
Yingxinyuan Restaurant is located not far south of the mosque on Guancheng West Road. The elders at the mosque recommended it to me, saying they host guests from the mosque there. I arrived after 3:00 PM. The cook finished my meal and then took a break, as the afternoon shift didn't start until 4:30 PM. The owner said they usually don't have many customers after 2:00 PM, so I was quite lucky. Knowing that portions get bigger the further northeast you go, I ordered a steamer of beef and cabbage steamed dumplings (shaomai) and a plate of sweet and sour pork tenderloin (tangcu liji), but I still couldn't finish it all. The taste was excellent, though! The even larger Qinhuangdao mixed hot pot (hunguo) will have to wait until I can come back with a group of people.


Lamb steamed dumplings (shaomai) in Chengde, Hebei.
In the morning, I had almond tea (xingren cha), meatball soup (wanzi tang), steamed dumplings (shaomai), and steamed dumplings (zhengjiao) at the famous Tuojie Snacks in Chengde. There are many halal snacks in the Shaanxiying area of Chengde, including lamb soup (yangtang), buckwheat noodles (heluo mian), door-nail meat pies (mending roubing), steamed dumplings (shaomai), almond tea (xingren cha), stomach-wrapped meat (dubaorou), stomach-wrapped brains (dubaonao), lamb neck skewers (yangbo chuan), fermented bean drink (douzhi), and bowl jelly (wantuo).
Since the Qing Dynasty built the Mountain Resort in 1703, Hui Muslims have gradually settled in Chengde. Whenever Emperor Kangxi held the Mulan autumn hunt or came to the resort to escape the summer heat, Hui Muslim officers, soldiers, and merchants would follow him. In the early years of Emperor Yongzheng's reign, the Qing government stationed Green Standard Army troops in Chengde. Because most of the officers and soldiers came from Shaanxi, it was called Shaanxiying, and the 'Left Battalion' among them was mostly made up of Hui Muslims. From then on, Shaanxiying became a residential area for Hui Muslims in Chengde.
By the time of Emperor Qianlong, Chengde had become a major metropolis north of the Great Wall. Hui Muslims from Shandong and Hebei flocked there to do business, working in the food industry and cattle and sheep slaughtering, which was known as 'chasing the imperial camp' (gan huangying). Today, the ten major surnames of Chengde's Hui Muslims, such as Wang, Ma, Shi, and Chen, all moved from Shandong, while the Wu surname moved from Cangzhou, Hebei, and the Kong surname moved from Beijing.




Lamb steamed dumplings (shaomai) in Datong, Shanxi.
I took the high-speed train from Beijing to Datong in the morning. After getting off, I headed straight to the famous Fuxingzhai Shaomai on Jiaochang Street for lunch, where I ordered steamed dumplings (shaomai), Mongolian salty milk tea (menggu xian naicha), a basin of egg soup (penpen jidan tang), and oil-seared meat (guoyou rou). Their steamed dumplings (shaomai) were truly delicious and went great with the milk tea.



Lamb steamed dumplings (shaomei) in Taiyuan, Shanxi.
The street-front shops outside the old mosque in Taiyuan were built when Dananmen Street was widened. On both sides of the main gate are beef and mutton shops, and there is one on the south side that always has a long line. A little further south is the Huifengyuan restaurant, which sells steamed dumplings (shaomei), lamb soup (yangtang), meatball soup (wanzi tang), and various other snacks. I had lamb soup (yangrou tang) and steamed dumplings (shaomei) here, and both were exceptionally good.
Since the Ming and Qing dynasties, Hui Muslims in Taiyuan have lived in the area around the South Gate of the old city. During the Qing Dynasty, Taiyuan had over a hundred local Hui Muslim households, plus a dozen or so Hui Muslim households who came from Suiyuan to do business, totaling five or six hundred people. After the Zhengtai Railway opened in 1907, the number of Hui Muslims coming to Taiyuan from Hebei increased significantly, reaching over 1,000 in the 1930s and over 5,100 in the early days of the People's Republic of China.





Lamb steamed dumplings (shaomai) in Hohhot, Inner Mongolia.
I ate steamed dumplings (shaomai) and drank brick tea at Qingyuanchun on Nanshuncheng Street. I personally like this place; I ate here during my previous visit to Hohhot as well.
Qingyuanchun is a long-standing shaomai shop. In 1796 (the first year of the Jiaqing reign), Li Chun started selling shaomai from a wheelbarrow in Guihua City. He made them on the spot, and they were very popular. In 1828 (the eighth year of the Daoguang reign), Li Chun's son, Li Guangyuan, rented two wooden rooms outside the Lanma Wall in Guihua City and officially opened the Qingyuanchun shaomai shop. In 1956, brothers Li Hongtu and Li Mingqing renovated the thirty-square-meter shop and reopened it. The fifth generation, Li Jiting, took over in 1963, and the sixth generation, Li Yongqing, took over in 2009. It is a famous halal shaomai shop in Hohhot.




Lamb shaomai in Shenyang, Liaoning.
I took a high-speed train from Beijing Chaoyang Station to Shenyang in the evening. The next morning, I went to the Lijiang Morning Market in Shenyang and had lamb soup, shaomai, and pan-fried meat pies (huitou) at Heige Lamb Soup. The breakfast stalls at the morning market are all about being affordable! Shaomai cost 7 yuan per steamer, and meat pies cost 2 yuan each. It is hard to find prices like this in a restaurant. They make everything fresh to order. The lamb in the soup is fresh meat the owner cuts at home. He slices it thin, and it cooks quickly when swished in the hot soup, keeping it very tender.




Lamb shaomai in Jinzhou, Liaoning.
I took a train from Beijing Chaoyang Station to Jinzhou North Station in the morning, then had a steamer of shaomai and a bowl of lamb soup in Jinzhou. The price was very affordable.


Lamb shaomai in Luyang, Liaoning.
After getting off at Goubangzi Railway Station, I took a 10-minute taxi ride to Luyang Town in the west. Luyang Mosque is not far from the Luyang Bridge. We were warmly welcomed at Luyang Mosque. Director Jin of the mosque management committee treated us to a hearty meal at his restaurant, Donglaishun. Director Jin's ancestral home was Xiaoxinzhuang in Jinan, Shandong. His ancestors moved to Guozhiwa in Hejian, Hebei, and then to Yingkou, Liaoning, before finally settling in Luyang Town during the Republic of China era. Director Jin has been the director of Luyang Mosque for over a decade. He knows the local history and folklore of Luyang very well and told us several very interesting local legends.
Besides the large portions, the food was super delicious. The most notable dish was the shaomai; I can even say it was the best I have ever had! Their shaomai are a bit like the thin-skinned buns (baozi) from Xinjiang. The skin is so thin you can see the filling inside. The onion flavor stands out, the saltiness is just right, and they are not greasy but very fragrant.




Lamb shaomai in Harbin, Heilongjiang.
I ate shaomai at Lao Guo Jia Guan, a century-old halal shop on Desheng Street in the Daowai District of Harbin. We actually discovered this place by accident while passing by in a taxi the night before. As a son-in-law of the Guo family, I happened to be talking to my wife about how rarely we see halal restaurants opened by the Guo family, and then I turned my head and saw this place! I quickly noted it down on my phone and went to eat there the next day.
Guo Jia Guan was founded by Guo Shaoxian in 1927 on Zhengyang 11th Street in Daowai. The 1933 'Guide to Greater Harbin' already recorded that Guo Jia Guan served various dishes and catered banquets. Guo Jia Guan was also listed in documents like the 1934 Harbin Daowai Business Directory and the 1937 Harbin Special Municipality Daowai Business and Industry Directory.
Guo Shaoxian was originally from Zhangluji in Shen County, Liaocheng, Shandong. He came to Harbin in the early 1920s during the migration to the Northeast. It is said he started by carrying a basket to sell steamed buns (baozi) on the streets. After saving enough money, he opened Guo Jia Guan on Zhengyang 11th Street in Daowai. Before the public-private partnership, Guo Jia Guan was nearly 100 square meters with 12 large square tables. They served various stir-fried dishes, including braised meat strips (baoroutiao), stir-fried tripe (liuduling), stir-fried clear mirror (liumingjing), crispy fried meat strips (jiaoshaoroutiao), and sweet and sour pork (guobaorou). Head chef Ma Bingsheng was a veteran at Guo Jia Guan with excellent culinary skills. The pastry chef was Jin Guangli. He was skilled at making pan-fried dumplings (guolao), water-fried buns (shuijianbao), meat pies (xianbing), steamed dumplings (shaomai), and steamed dumplings (zhengjiao). The skin of his meat pies was so thin you could see the filling inside.
After the public-private partnership in 1956, Guo Jia Guan merged with several other Hui Muslim restaurants, including Huaxing Hao, to form the Daowai Hui Muslim Restaurant. Guo Shaoxian was assigned to work as a pastry chef at Xiangyang Restaurant (formerly Wu Ji Renyi Restaurant) on Jingyang Street until he retired. Among Guo's descendants, the only one to inherit his skills was his grand-nephew, Guo Dalin. Guo Dalin was born in 1937 in Zhangluji, Shen County, Liaocheng, Shandong. In 1953, at age 16, he moved to Harbin to join his great-uncle Guo Shaoxian and began his apprenticeship at Guo Jia Guan. After the 1956 public-private partnership, Guo Dalin worked at the Daowai Hui Muslim Restaurant. In 1983, he revived the old Guo Jia Guan name. In 2003, he reopened the old Guo Jia Guan on Desheng Street. It has been 20 years since then, and the restaurant is now managed by his granddaughter.
The old Guo Jia Guan does not have many online reviews and has barely advertised itself. It is a down-to-earth local neighborhood spot. They serve classic Harbin Hui Muslim dishes. We ordered stir-fried clear mirror (liumingjing), stir-fried tofu with hot peppers (jianjiaogandoufu), fresh mushroom with meat slices (xianmoroupian), and steamed dumplings (shaomai). Everything was affordable and delicious.




Wuhan, Hubei sticky rice steamed dumplings (shaomei).
Before the demolition of Qiyi Street in Wuchang, there was a lively morning market every day, crowded with people and full of life. On Xiangbi Street (now the eastern section of Bao'an Street), which intersects with Qiyi Street, there was a halal breakfast spot called 'Halal Da Jia Red Oil Beef Noodle Shop.' It was open daily from around 6 or 7 a.m. to 10 a.m. I ate red oil beef thin noodles and a fried dough cake stuffed with a steamed dumpling (youbingjieshaomei) there. The sticky rice inside the steamed dumpling was very fragrant and sweet. This shop is gone now that Qiyi Street has been demolished.




Not far southeast of Qiyi Street, at the intersection of Ping'an Road and Hengping Road, there was another local Wuchang halal breakfast shop called 'Niu Chong Chong Hui Muslim Snack Bar.' The owner's family had lived on Qiyi Street for generations. I ate hot dry noodles (reganmian) and sticky rice, beef, and mushroom steamed dumplings (shaomei) there. Their beef noodles and fried dough cake stuffed with steamed dumplings (youbingbaoshaomei) were also very authentic. This shop is also no longer there today.




Nanjing, Jiangsu egg steamed dumplings (shaomai) and egg yolk steamed dumplings (shaomai).
During the Daoguang era, Ma Sifa, a Hui Muslim from Mengzhou, Henan, fled famine and came to Nanjing with his family. He set up a stall at Yuhuatai to sell beef soup, which people called the 'Ma Huihui Food Stall.' Later, Ma Sifa's son, Ma Shengxiang, officially founded the 'Ma Xiangxing' brand in Huihui Camp, specializing in beef-stewed radishes and stir-fried beef snacks.
In 1912, Ma Shengxiang moved the restaurant across from the Great Bao'en Mosque, focusing on the 'Eight Beef Dishes' (niubayang). At that time, Ma Xiangxing had a Hui Muslim head chef known as 'Old Seven,' who was skilled at making stir-fried tripe (baodusisi) and stir-fried chicken liver. After Ma Shengxiang passed away in 1925, his second son, Ma Deming, took over the business. Ma Xiangxing shifted from cooked food and small stir-fries to banquet dishes, while adding various local-style chicken, duck, fish, shrimp, and egg dishes. After the capital moved to Nanjing in 1927, Ma Xiangxing became increasingly famous under the cooking of head chef Ma Dingsong. At that time, various Republic of China officials became regulars at Ma Xiangxing. The Ministry of Foreign Affairs often hosted foreign guests there, and diplomats from various countries frequently held banquets at the restaurant. During this period, Ma Deming created four famous dishes: beauty liver (meiren gan), squirrel fish (songshu yu), phoenix tail shrimp (fengwei xia), and egg steamed dumplings (dan shaomai).
People say the egg steamed dumplings were invented by Ma Xiangxing head chef Jin Hongyi to suit the taste of Bai Chongxi. Egg steamed dumplings are made with a filling of shrimp, chicken fat, and egg whites, wrapped in a thin egg skin. After steaming, they are topped with a sauce made from chicken broth, water chestnut starch, and duck fat. Today, the ingredients for egg steamed dumplings are shrimp paste, celery, and eggs.



The snack bar on the first floor also serves egg yolk steamed dumplings.

Singapore fresh shrimp and chicken Cantonese-style steamed dumplings (shaomai).
The Dim Sum Place is a very famous halal Cantonese-style tea restaurant in Singapore. It specializes in Cantonese dim sum and various Cantonese dishes, offering a wide variety. They opened on North Bridge Road in Kampong Glam in 2016 and have since opened two more branches. They are very popular with Muslims.
We ordered steamed chicken feet with sauce, fresh shrimp and chicken steamed dumplings, roasted chicken char siu rice rolls, fish fillet porridge, and Pu'er tea. Since we were there for afternoon tea rather than a full meal, there were still many things we wanted to try but didn't order.



Malaysia Seremban fresh shrimp Cantonese-style steamed dumplings.
After taking a taxi 50 kilometers southeast from Kuala Lumpur Airport, you arrive in Seremban, the capital of Negeri Sembilan state. We first had morning tea at a Chinese Muslim restaurant called Muhammad Kew Chinese Muslim Kitchen. We ordered chicken char siu buns, wontons, Cantonese-style egg rice, and shrimp steamed dumplings, all of which were delicious. Unfortunately, the Chinese owner was busy in the kitchen, so we didn't get to meet him, but we did meet his Malay wife, who was warm and friendly. The steamed dumplings are filled with shrimp and minced meat, giving them a unique flavor.




Malaysia Malacca Cantonese-style steamed dumplings.
Chan Mari Chan is a sub-brand of the large Malaysian Chinese Muslim restaurant chain Mohd Chan, focusing on affordable home-style snacks. The founder of Mohd Chan, Dato HJ Mohd Chan, was born in Gombak, Selangor. Influenced by his Malay friends, he converted to Islam in 2007 and began running his restaurant that same year. He has since been combining Nanyang Chinese cuisine with Malay flavors and has built it into the most famous and largest Chinese Muslim restaurant chain in Malaysia.
In January this year, we ate at a Mohd Chan restaurant in Seremban, Malaysia. You order from a menu there, and they serve a variety of Nanyang Chinese banquet dishes, which are relatively high-end. Chan Mari Chan focuses on fast food and snacks where you pick up your food directly from the counter. Chicken rice, small bowl dishes, and steamed items are the most popular. We picked up roasted chicken rice, three small bowl dishes, two types of steamed dumplings, and drank herbal jelly coffee and cocoa coffee. Eating at their place wiped away the fatigue of our journey, and we instantly felt embraced by Nanyang culture, which was very satisfying.
Their environment is also very nice, and many Malay friends (dosti) come to eat there with their families. Their shop even has a prayer room, which makes them a great example for us Hui Muslims.


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Halal Travel Guide: Kairouan, Tunisia - Great Mosque and Jumu'ah (Part 2)
Reposted from the web
Summary: This second part of the Kairouan travel account continues around the Great Mosque and the old city after Jumu'ah. It keeps the original mosque details, street scenes, photographs, and Muslim travel observations for readers interested in Tunisia's Islamic heritage.






Street views of the old medina in Kairouan.
Kairouan was the capital of the Aghlabid and Zirid dynasties between the 9th and 11th centuries. The Aghlabid dynasty was an Arab emirate nominally under the Abbasid Caliphate. Kairouan grew quickly during this time and became known for its wealth and prosperity, rivaling cities like Basra and Kufa within the Abbasid realm. The Zirid dynasty was a Berber emirate nominally under the Fatimid Caliphate. Kairouan reached its peak in art, trade, and agriculture during this period, with education flourishing in particular. In the 1040s, the Zirid dynasty declared independence from the Fatimid Caliphate and recognized the Abbasid Caliphate. The Fatimid Caliphate then sent a group of Arab tribes to invade Kairouan. In 1057, these Arab tribes captured and destroyed Kairouan. The Zirid dynasty was forced to move its capital to Mahdia, and Kairouan never regained its former prosperity.









In the Kairouan medina market, various sweets are very popular, especially the date-filled pastry known as Makroudh.




They also sell fresh dates here. They are quite sweet, though slightly more astringent than the dried ones.


The 18th-century Kairouan Bey residence, Dar El Bey, is now a carpet shop. The residence has 18 rooms inside with very ornate ceilings. However, if you do not plan to buy a carpet, the staff might not let you see all the rooms.







The office of the Kairouan Poetry Association; this kind of ornate ceiling is a signature feature of Kairouan.




The ancient Bir Barrouta well in Kairouan. Legend says it was dug by the Abbasid governor Ibn El Ayoun in 796, and the current domed structure was rebuilt by the Bey of Tunis, Mohamed, in 1690. It is still in operation today, using a camel to power a water wheel (noria) to draw water, which people collect in clay pots.





A gongbei built in 1829 in the old medina of Kairouan.




The Zeitouna Mosque outside the west gate of the old medina in Kairouan. Its architectural style is similar to the Great Mosque of Kairouan, but it is smaller in scale.




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Summary: This second part of the Kairouan travel account continues around the Great Mosque and the old city after Jumu'ah. It keeps the original mosque details, street scenes, photographs, and Muslim travel observations for readers interested in Tunisia's Islamic heritage.






Street views of the old medina in Kairouan.
Kairouan was the capital of the Aghlabid and Zirid dynasties between the 9th and 11th centuries. The Aghlabid dynasty was an Arab emirate nominally under the Abbasid Caliphate. Kairouan grew quickly during this time and became known for its wealth and prosperity, rivaling cities like Basra and Kufa within the Abbasid realm. The Zirid dynasty was a Berber emirate nominally under the Fatimid Caliphate. Kairouan reached its peak in art, trade, and agriculture during this period, with education flourishing in particular. In the 1040s, the Zirid dynasty declared independence from the Fatimid Caliphate and recognized the Abbasid Caliphate. The Fatimid Caliphate then sent a group of Arab tribes to invade Kairouan. In 1057, these Arab tribes captured and destroyed Kairouan. The Zirid dynasty was forced to move its capital to Mahdia, and Kairouan never regained its former prosperity.









In the Kairouan medina market, various sweets are very popular, especially the date-filled pastry known as Makroudh.




They also sell fresh dates here. They are quite sweet, though slightly more astringent than the dried ones.


The 18th-century Kairouan Bey residence, Dar El Bey, is now a carpet shop. The residence has 18 rooms inside with very ornate ceilings. However, if you do not plan to buy a carpet, the staff might not let you see all the rooms.







The office of the Kairouan Poetry Association; this kind of ornate ceiling is a signature feature of Kairouan.




The ancient Bir Barrouta well in Kairouan. Legend says it was dug by the Abbasid governor Ibn El Ayoun in 796, and the current domed structure was rebuilt by the Bey of Tunis, Mohamed, in 1690. It is still in operation today, using a camel to power a water wheel (noria) to draw water, which people collect in clay pots.





A gongbei built in 1829 in the old medina of Kairouan.




The Zeitouna Mosque outside the west gate of the old medina in Kairouan. Its architectural style is similar to the Great Mosque of Kairouan, but it is smaller in scale.




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Muslim Culture Guide: Pakistan Embassy School International Culture Day
Reposted from the web
Summary: This article records a visit to International Culture Day at the Pakistan Embassy School, with food, performances, students, and community life at the center. It keeps the original event details, photographs, names, and cultural observations for readers interested in Pakistan and Muslim community events in Beijing.
On November 2, 2024, I attended the annual International Cultural Day at the Pakistan Embassy College in China.


The Commercial Counselor of the Palestinian Embassy in China was there to introduce Palestinian culture, and everyone wrote messages of support for Palestine on postcards.









The first booth inside was Azerbaijan. We started by eating the famous Ottoman dessert baklava (Paxlavası), which is a classic treat for major occasions like Nowruz. Different ethnic groups in Azerbaijan, such as Azerbaijanis, Lezgins, and Tats, all have their own style of making baklava. We ate a version made with walnuts, vanilla sugar, honey, and saffron, which was delicious.
They also had classic Azerbaijani dishes like rice pilaf (Plov), stuffed grape leaves (Dolma), stuffed chicken (Levengi), grilled vegetable salad (Mangal), herb-filled flatbread (Qutab), and vegetable yogurt soup (Dovga). Levengi is made by stuffing a chicken with walnuts, onions, and various spices before roasting it. Dovga is a classic drink served at Azerbaijani weddings, made by mixing yogurt with cilantro, dill, mint, spinach, and other vegetables.




The second booth was Yemen, where we drank Yemeni coffee and had some special desserts. Although coffee is now a popular drink everywhere, it actually originated in Yemeni Sufi lodges. According to current records, Yemeni Sufi lodges had already introduced coffee beans from Ethiopia to Yemen for cultivation by the 15th century. They were the first to roast the beans to make coffee, which helped them stay awake during night prayers (namaz). Mocha is an important Yemeni port on the Red Sea. From the 15th to the 17th century, it was the world's largest coffee trading center and even held a monopoly. Before the 20th century, Mocha referred to Yemeni coffee; it was only later that the term began to describe coffee mixed with chocolate.



Moving forward, we reached the Bangladesh booth, where we drank masala tea and ate a traditional Bangladeshi dessert called vermicelli pudding (Lachcha Shemai). This snack consists of thin noodles layered together and soaked in sweet milk, and it is a classic wedding dessert in Bangladesh.



Further inside were the Malaysia and Indonesia booths. At the Malaysia booth, we bought coconut rice (Nasi Lemak) and curry puffs (Karipap). At the Indonesia booth, we bought savory sticky rice rolls (Lemper) and shaved ice dessert (Cendol).
The coconut rice sold here was the most traditional and simple version, consisting of white rice with chili paste (sambal), dried anchovies, peanuts, and a boiled egg.
Karipap is a flaky curry puff that appeared in Malaysia during the 19th-century British colonial era, influenced by British pasties and Indian samosas, and later spread throughout Southeast Asia.
Lemper is a savory sticky rice roll filled with shredded chicken or fish floss, wrapped in a banana leaf.









Next were the Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, and Xinjiang booths.
Uzbekistan had flaky baked buns (samsa) and freshly cooked rice pilaf (plov), which my mother-in-law thought tasted very good.
The Tajikistan booth was probably the most impressive this time, with a huge pot full of chicken stew!
The man at the Xinjiang booth is from Hotan, though he was born in Pakistan. The fried dough twists (sanzi) at the booth were delicious, and Suleiman couldn't stop eating them.









Booths for three North African countries. I ate dates at the Libya booth, dried fruit at the Morocco booth, and the classic street food Koshary at the Egypt booth.
Koshary is a mix of pasta, macaroni, Egyptian rice, and lentils, topped with tomato sauce, garlic sauce, chickpeas, and fried onions. As early as ancient Egypt, people ate a dish called Koshir made from lentils, wheat, chickpeas, garlic, and onions cooked in clay pots. It only evolved into the modern Koshary after the introduction of pasta and tomatoes in the 19th century. This snack is vegan and very cheap, making it a typical Egyptian comfort food for the common people.









Moving further in, we found Turkey and Turkmenistan, where we kept trying all kinds of snacks.



The innermost area was the Pakistan section, featuring various foods and clothing displays, including famous Beijing Pakistani restaurants Khan Baba and Zamzam. We bought freshly grilled chicken skewers and a large pot of chicken biryani at Zamzam. Suleiman also ate a few chicken skewers; it seems he adapts quite well to Pakistani food.






We performed namaz at the embassy school. Pakistanis also mostly follow the Hanafi school of thought, so their movements are basically the same as ours. There was even a basket of caps at the entrance, which matches our custom of wearing a cap for namaz, unlike Arabs or Iranians who do not have this practice.









Children from all over the world showed off their traditional clothing.
I attended several foreign events in Beijing this year; you can often join different embassy activities in Beijing to experience cultures from around the world.
The Saudi Tourism Festival held by the Saudi Tourism Authority at the Temple of Heaven Park: Experience Arab culture at the Temple of Heaven Park.

The Rasa Malaysia festival held at Sanlitun Taikoo Li: Taste Malaysian food in Beijing—2024 Beijing Malaysia Festival.

The International Neighborhood Festival held at the Jianguomen Diplomatic Residence Compound: Taste food from Iran, Azerbaijan, and the Maldives at the International Neighborhood Festival.

Cultural exchange activities hosted by Saudi Arabia, the guest of honor at the Beijing International Book Fair in the China National Convention Center: Experience Saudi culture at the Beijing International Book Fair.

The Indonesian Cultural Festival held at the Indonesian Embassy: Attend the 2024 Indonesian Cultural Festival.
Collapse Read »
Summary: This article records a visit to International Culture Day at the Pakistan Embassy School, with food, performances, students, and community life at the center. It keeps the original event details, photographs, names, and cultural observations for readers interested in Pakistan and Muslim community events in Beijing.
On November 2, 2024, I attended the annual International Cultural Day at the Pakistan Embassy College in China.


The Commercial Counselor of the Palestinian Embassy in China was there to introduce Palestinian culture, and everyone wrote messages of support for Palestine on postcards.









The first booth inside was Azerbaijan. We started by eating the famous Ottoman dessert baklava (Paxlavası), which is a classic treat for major occasions like Nowruz. Different ethnic groups in Azerbaijan, such as Azerbaijanis, Lezgins, and Tats, all have their own style of making baklava. We ate a version made with walnuts, vanilla sugar, honey, and saffron, which was delicious.
They also had classic Azerbaijani dishes like rice pilaf (Plov), stuffed grape leaves (Dolma), stuffed chicken (Levengi), grilled vegetable salad (Mangal), herb-filled flatbread (Qutab), and vegetable yogurt soup (Dovga). Levengi is made by stuffing a chicken with walnuts, onions, and various spices before roasting it. Dovga is a classic drink served at Azerbaijani weddings, made by mixing yogurt with cilantro, dill, mint, spinach, and other vegetables.




The second booth was Yemen, where we drank Yemeni coffee and had some special desserts. Although coffee is now a popular drink everywhere, it actually originated in Yemeni Sufi lodges. According to current records, Yemeni Sufi lodges had already introduced coffee beans from Ethiopia to Yemen for cultivation by the 15th century. They were the first to roast the beans to make coffee, which helped them stay awake during night prayers (namaz). Mocha is an important Yemeni port on the Red Sea. From the 15th to the 17th century, it was the world's largest coffee trading center and even held a monopoly. Before the 20th century, Mocha referred to Yemeni coffee; it was only later that the term began to describe coffee mixed with chocolate.



Moving forward, we reached the Bangladesh booth, where we drank masala tea and ate a traditional Bangladeshi dessert called vermicelli pudding (Lachcha Shemai). This snack consists of thin noodles layered together and soaked in sweet milk, and it is a classic wedding dessert in Bangladesh.



Further inside were the Malaysia and Indonesia booths. At the Malaysia booth, we bought coconut rice (Nasi Lemak) and curry puffs (Karipap). At the Indonesia booth, we bought savory sticky rice rolls (Lemper) and shaved ice dessert (Cendol).
The coconut rice sold here was the most traditional and simple version, consisting of white rice with chili paste (sambal), dried anchovies, peanuts, and a boiled egg.
Karipap is a flaky curry puff that appeared in Malaysia during the 19th-century British colonial era, influenced by British pasties and Indian samosas, and later spread throughout Southeast Asia.
Lemper is a savory sticky rice roll filled with shredded chicken or fish floss, wrapped in a banana leaf.









Next were the Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, and Xinjiang booths.
Uzbekistan had flaky baked buns (samsa) and freshly cooked rice pilaf (plov), which my mother-in-law thought tasted very good.
The Tajikistan booth was probably the most impressive this time, with a huge pot full of chicken stew!
The man at the Xinjiang booth is from Hotan, though he was born in Pakistan. The fried dough twists (sanzi) at the booth were delicious, and Suleiman couldn't stop eating them.









Booths for three North African countries. I ate dates at the Libya booth, dried fruit at the Morocco booth, and the classic street food Koshary at the Egypt booth.
Koshary is a mix of pasta, macaroni, Egyptian rice, and lentils, topped with tomato sauce, garlic sauce, chickpeas, and fried onions. As early as ancient Egypt, people ate a dish called Koshir made from lentils, wheat, chickpeas, garlic, and onions cooked in clay pots. It only evolved into the modern Koshary after the introduction of pasta and tomatoes in the 19th century. This snack is vegan and very cheap, making it a typical Egyptian comfort food for the common people.









Moving further in, we found Turkey and Turkmenistan, where we kept trying all kinds of snacks.



The innermost area was the Pakistan section, featuring various foods and clothing displays, including famous Beijing Pakistani restaurants Khan Baba and Zamzam. We bought freshly grilled chicken skewers and a large pot of chicken biryani at Zamzam. Suleiman also ate a few chicken skewers; it seems he adapts quite well to Pakistani food.






We performed namaz at the embassy school. Pakistanis also mostly follow the Hanafi school of thought, so their movements are basically the same as ours. There was even a basket of caps at the entrance, which matches our custom of wearing a cap for namaz, unlike Arabs or Iranians who do not have this practice.









Children from all over the world showed off their traditional clothing.
I attended several foreign events in Beijing this year; you can often join different embassy activities in Beijing to experience cultures from around the world.
The Saudi Tourism Festival held by the Saudi Tourism Authority at the Temple of Heaven Park: Experience Arab culture at the Temple of Heaven Park.

The Rasa Malaysia festival held at Sanlitun Taikoo Li: Taste Malaysian food in Beijing—2024 Beijing Malaysia Festival.

The International Neighborhood Festival held at the Jianguomen Diplomatic Residence Compound: Taste food from Iran, Azerbaijan, and the Maldives at the International Neighborhood Festival.

Cultural exchange activities hosted by Saudi Arabia, the guest of honor at the Beijing International Book Fair in the China National Convention Center: Experience Saudi culture at the Beijing International Book Fair.

The Indonesian Cultural Festival held at the Indonesian Embassy: Attend the 2024 Indonesian Cultural Festival.
Collapse Read »
Book Guide: Syria Before the War - Historic Monuments and Heritage
Reposted from the web
Summary: This article recommends a detailed book on Syria's historic monuments before the war, with attention to mosques, old cities, and cultural heritage sites. It keeps the original book information, place names, historical details, and reading notes for readers interested in Syria's Islamic and urban history.
I recently read the new book Light of Civilization in the Crescent Zone. The author, Zhu Huizhong, graduated from the Arabic department at Peking University. He studied at Damascus University from 2004 to 2005, which allowed him to visit historical sites across Syria and create a comprehensive record of what these places looked like before the war. After the Syrian civil war began, many of the sites in the book were severely damaged or destroyed, which makes this book even more valuable.
I really like how the book is written. It follows a clear geographical path, introducing Syria's cultural sites step by step from the capital to the south, center, coast, north, and east. It starts with Damascus and gives a very detailed introduction to the historical buildings throughout the old city.
The highlight of the book is the chapter on Aleppo. After four years of fighting from 2012 to 2016, Aleppo was almost reduced to ruins. More than half of its ancient buildings were severely damaged, and thirty percent were completely destroyed. I am very grateful that the author was able to leave behind a record of this ancient city before the war.








Collapse Read »
Summary: This article recommends a detailed book on Syria's historic monuments before the war, with attention to mosques, old cities, and cultural heritage sites. It keeps the original book information, place names, historical details, and reading notes for readers interested in Syria's Islamic and urban history.
I recently read the new book Light of Civilization in the Crescent Zone. The author, Zhu Huizhong, graduated from the Arabic department at Peking University. He studied at Damascus University from 2004 to 2005, which allowed him to visit historical sites across Syria and create a comprehensive record of what these places looked like before the war. After the Syrian civil war began, many of the sites in the book were severely damaged or destroyed, which makes this book even more valuable.
I really like how the book is written. It follows a clear geographical path, introducing Syria's cultural sites step by step from the capital to the south, center, coast, north, and east. It starts with Damascus and gives a very detailed introduction to the historical buildings throughout the old city.
The highlight of the book is the chapter on Aleppo. After four years of fighting from 2012 to 2016, Aleppo was almost reduced to ruins. More than half of its ancient buildings were severely damaged, and thirty percent were completely destroyed. I am very grateful that the author was able to leave behind a record of this ancient city before the war.








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Islamic Art Guide: Tianjin Hui Muslim Brick Carvings - Ma Family and Liu
Reposted from the web
Summary: This article introduces the refined brick carvings of the Hui Muslim Ma family and Liu brick-carving tradition from Tianjin's Northwest Corner. It keeps the original artisan names, exhibition details, photographs, and cultural background for readers interested in Hui Muslim craftsmanship.
The Tianjin Museum displays exquisite brick carvings by the Hui Muslim families known as the 'Fancy Work Ma Family' (Huahuo Majia) and 'Brick Carver Liu' (Kezhuan Liu) from the Northwest Corner.
During the Jiaqing and Daoguang periods of the Qing Dynasty, wealthy merchants like the 'Eight Great Families' of Tianjin built many homes, leading to higher demands for fine brick carvings. During the Daoguang period, a Hui Muslim mason from the Northwest Corner named Ma Shunqing focused on brick carving techniques, known in the trade as 'fancy work' (huahuo), and gradually developed Tianjin brick carving into an independent form of arts and crafts. He created the 'brick-pasting method' (tiezhuan fa), which uses an adhesive made of rosin and yellow wax to attach small bricks onto a brick surface, giving the carvings clear layers for near, middle, and far views.
While creating his own carvings, Ma Shunqing trained a professional team of Hui Muslim brick carvers known as the 'Fancy Work Ma Family' (Huahuo Majia), which included his sons Ma Shaode and Ma Shaoqing, and apprentices like Mu Chenglin and He Baotian. Ma Shaode kept his father's techniques while adding his own style, and Ma Shaoqing further developed the brick-pasting method; both became famous brick carving masters in Tianjin.
During the Republic of China era, Ma Shunqing's grandson Liu Fengming became the standout of the third generation of the 'Fancy Work Ma Family' and was known as 'Brick Carver Liu' (Kezhuan Liu). Liu Fengming began learning brick carving from his grandfather Ma Shunqing and uncle Ma Shaoqing at age 15; his work is rich in content, bold in spirit, and features delicate, skilled knife work that is very artistic. Liu Fengming evolved Ma Shunqing's original method of pasting a single brick into a 'stack-pasting method' (duitie fa) that pastes multiple bricks as needed, making the images more three-dimensional and realistic.
Peonies carved by Ma Shunqing.


Flowers and birds carved by Ma Shaoqing.


The 'Four Loves' (Si'ai Tu) carved by Liu Fengming, featuring Wang Xizhi loving geese, Tao Yuanming loving chrysanthemums, Lin Hejing, and Zhou Dunyi loving lotus flowers.




Flowers and birds carved by Liu Fengming.

Fisherman, woodcutter, farmer, and scholar (yuqiaogengdu) carved by Liu Fengming.

Collapse Read »
Summary: This article introduces the refined brick carvings of the Hui Muslim Ma family and Liu brick-carving tradition from Tianjin's Northwest Corner. It keeps the original artisan names, exhibition details, photographs, and cultural background for readers interested in Hui Muslim craftsmanship.
The Tianjin Museum displays exquisite brick carvings by the Hui Muslim families known as the 'Fancy Work Ma Family' (Huahuo Majia) and 'Brick Carver Liu' (Kezhuan Liu) from the Northwest Corner.
During the Jiaqing and Daoguang periods of the Qing Dynasty, wealthy merchants like the 'Eight Great Families' of Tianjin built many homes, leading to higher demands for fine brick carvings. During the Daoguang period, a Hui Muslim mason from the Northwest Corner named Ma Shunqing focused on brick carving techniques, known in the trade as 'fancy work' (huahuo), and gradually developed Tianjin brick carving into an independent form of arts and crafts. He created the 'brick-pasting method' (tiezhuan fa), which uses an adhesive made of rosin and yellow wax to attach small bricks onto a brick surface, giving the carvings clear layers for near, middle, and far views.
While creating his own carvings, Ma Shunqing trained a professional team of Hui Muslim brick carvers known as the 'Fancy Work Ma Family' (Huahuo Majia), which included his sons Ma Shaode and Ma Shaoqing, and apprentices like Mu Chenglin and He Baotian. Ma Shaode kept his father's techniques while adding his own style, and Ma Shaoqing further developed the brick-pasting method; both became famous brick carving masters in Tianjin.
During the Republic of China era, Ma Shunqing's grandson Liu Fengming became the standout of the third generation of the 'Fancy Work Ma Family' and was known as 'Brick Carver Liu' (Kezhuan Liu). Liu Fengming began learning brick carving from his grandfather Ma Shunqing and uncle Ma Shaoqing at age 15; his work is rich in content, bold in spirit, and features delicate, skilled knife work that is very artistic. Liu Fengming evolved Ma Shunqing's original method of pasting a single brick into a 'stack-pasting method' (duitie fa) that pastes multiple bricks as needed, making the images more three-dimensional and realistic.
Peonies carved by Ma Shunqing.


Flowers and birds carved by Ma Shaoqing.


The 'Four Loves' (Si'ai Tu) carved by Liu Fengming, featuring Wang Xizhi loving geese, Tao Yuanming loving chrysanthemums, Lin Hejing, and Zhou Dunyi loving lotus flowers.




Flowers and birds carved by Liu Fengming.

Fisherman, woodcutter, farmer, and scholar (yuqiaogengdu) carved by Liu Fengming.

Collapse Read »
Islamic Architecture Guide: Saudi Arabia and UAE Traditional Homes
Reposted from the web
Summary: This article visits traditional homes in Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates, with a focus on courtyard layouts, family spaces, and local building details. It keeps the original travel route, house names, photographs, and cultural observations for readers interested in Muslim heritage and Gulf architecture.
Continued from the previous post:
Visiting traditional homes in Tunisia and Egypt
Visiting traditional homes in southeastern Turkey
Name: Bayt Ba'ishan
Location: Inside the old city of Jeddah, Saudi Arabia
Date: 1923
Introduction: The Ba'ishan family came from the Hadramaut region in eastern Yemen and specialized in the tea and grain trade. The famous Jeddah musician Omar Ba'ishan and the journalist Mohammad Ba'ishan both come from this family. This old house consists of two parts, and the first floor has a small courtyard used as an outdoor space for namaz. There is now a cold drink shop inside where tourists can rest.









Name: Bayt Jeddah
Location: Inside the old city of Jeddah, Saudi Arabia
Date: 1880
Introduction: Bayt Jeddah is also called Salloum's house. It was built by Sheikh Abdullah Bin Obaid Salloum in 1880. It preserves many pieces of furniture used by the Salloum family in the past, including some imported from India that are over 120 years old. The old house has three floors. The first floor is a reception room, and the second floor is the bedroom. You can see many daily items here, including old suitcases, sewing machines, and an old-fashioned kerosene refrigerator. In the old house, you can see the area in the Hejaz region specifically designed to receive female neighbors. In the past, female neighbors used to gather there every afternoon to drink tea and chat.









Name: Crossroad of Civilizations Museum
Location: Inside the Al Shindagha historical district in Dubai, UAE
Date: 19th century
Introduction: The Crossroad of Civilizations Museum is located in a traditional Gulf-style house built in the 19th century. This was the former residence of Sheikh Hashr Bin Maktoum Al Maktoum, the brother of the eighth ruler of Dubai, Sheikh Saeed. It opened as a museum in 2014 and displays many formal book manuscripts and traditional weaponry.






Name: Museum of the Poet Al Oqaili
Location: Inside the Al Ras historical district in Dubai, UAE
Date: 1923
Introduction: The former residence of the poet Al Oqaili (1875-1954). Al Oqaili is a very famous Arab writer who showed a great talent for poetry from a young age. In his middle age, he traveled around the Persian Gulf, living in places like Iraq, Bahrain, and Abu Dhabi, before finally settling in Dubai in the early 20th century. In 1923, he hired craftsmen from his hometown of Al-Ahsa to build this house. The entire building is made of coral, stone, plaster, teak, and palm fronds, along with a traditional Iranian building material called Sarooj. Sarooj is a waterproof mortar made by kneading clay and limestone for two days, then adding bathhouse furnace ash, cattail fibers, eggs, and straw, and finally beating it with wooden sticks.
In 1954, Al Oqaili passed away in this house at the age of 81. He never married or had children, so the house was inherited by his cousin who came from Saudi Arabia.








Name: Al Bait Al Qadeem Restaurant
Location: Inside the Al Ras historical district in Dubai, UAE
Year: 1909
Introduction: Al Bait Alqadeem means old house in Arabic. This restaurant is located in a traditional Gulf-style residence built in 1909 by a pearl boat owner named Abdulla Bin Jamaan, who was also a bodyguard for the ruler of Dubai at the time. In 1954, Abdulla Bin Jamaan became the first mayor of Dubai. Today, this old house has been turned into a restaurant serving traditional Gulf cuisine.





Name: Sharjah Heritage Museum
Location: Inside the Heart of Sharjah historical district in the old city of Sharjah, UAE.
Year: 1795
Introduction: The historical building housing the Sharjah Heritage Museum was built by pearl merchant Saeed bin Mohammed Al Shamsi in 1795. It is also known as Bait Saeed Al Taweel, which means the house of Saeed the Tall. The museum showcases the traditional lifestyle of the people of Sharjah through crafts, folk music, wedding ceremonies, and folktales.




Name: Bait Al Naboodah
Location: Inside the Heart of Sharjah historical district in the old city of Sharjah, UAE.
Year: 1845
Introduction: Bait Al Naboodah is one of the most famous traditional Gulf residences in Sharjah. It was built in 1845 by Obaid bin Eissa Bin Ali Al Shamsi, the wealthiest pearl merchant in 19th-century Sharjah, who was nicknamed Al Naboodah.
Al Naboodah's pearl trade reached Africa, France, and India, and he accumulated massive wealth, especially from his pearl trade with India. In 1845, Al Naboodah rebuilt his father's ancestral home. The new residence featured a large courtyard with coral stone walls, unique Indian teak columns, and plaster carvings made by Persian craftsmen. Additionally, this house did not use the traditional Emirati wind tower (barjeel), but instead pioneered the use of air-scoops (malaqaf) built along the inner walls to circulate air.
The descendants of Al Naboodah lived here until the 1970s, but the building was badly damaged due to years of neglect. In the 1990s, the Sharjah Museums Authority hired a team of historians to carry out a large-scale renovation that lasted several years, and it officially opened to the public in 1995.









The interactive display of the courtyard allows you to click on any building component on the screen to see an introduction and the restoration process for that part.




The coral stones used to build the courtyard come in two types: brain coral and fan coral. After being pulled from the seabed, these corals were dried in the sun, making them very light yet strong. Environmental protection laws now forbid the collection of coral stones, so limestone from the mountains had to be used to repair the damaged coral stones in the courtyard.


Summer temperatures in Sharjah can exceed 45 degrees Celsius. Many people used to hide in the mountains or oases to escape the heat between June and August, a summer migration route known as al maqeedh. With the summer house, people no longer had to travel inland to escape the heat during the summer.
Sharjah residents usually started preparing their summer houses at the end of March. They would coat the inside and outside of the house with a lime powder called norah, which reflects sunlight. The most important feature of the summer house is the many vents on the roof that help air circulate. During the day, wind blowing from the land flows into the house, and at night, the wind comes from the sea.


Toilet

Kitchen

Collapse Read »
Summary: This article visits traditional homes in Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates, with a focus on courtyard layouts, family spaces, and local building details. It keeps the original travel route, house names, photographs, and cultural observations for readers interested in Muslim heritage and Gulf architecture.
Continued from the previous post:
Visiting traditional homes in Tunisia and Egypt
Visiting traditional homes in southeastern Turkey
Name: Bayt Ba'ishan
Location: Inside the old city of Jeddah, Saudi Arabia
Date: 1923
Introduction: The Ba'ishan family came from the Hadramaut region in eastern Yemen and specialized in the tea and grain trade. The famous Jeddah musician Omar Ba'ishan and the journalist Mohammad Ba'ishan both come from this family. This old house consists of two parts, and the first floor has a small courtyard used as an outdoor space for namaz. There is now a cold drink shop inside where tourists can rest.









Name: Bayt Jeddah
Location: Inside the old city of Jeddah, Saudi Arabia
Date: 1880
Introduction: Bayt Jeddah is also called Salloum's house. It was built by Sheikh Abdullah Bin Obaid Salloum in 1880. It preserves many pieces of furniture used by the Salloum family in the past, including some imported from India that are over 120 years old. The old house has three floors. The first floor is a reception room, and the second floor is the bedroom. You can see many daily items here, including old suitcases, sewing machines, and an old-fashioned kerosene refrigerator. In the old house, you can see the area in the Hejaz region specifically designed to receive female neighbors. In the past, female neighbors used to gather there every afternoon to drink tea and chat.









Name: Crossroad of Civilizations Museum
Location: Inside the Al Shindagha historical district in Dubai, UAE
Date: 19th century
Introduction: The Crossroad of Civilizations Museum is located in a traditional Gulf-style house built in the 19th century. This was the former residence of Sheikh Hashr Bin Maktoum Al Maktoum, the brother of the eighth ruler of Dubai, Sheikh Saeed. It opened as a museum in 2014 and displays many formal book manuscripts and traditional weaponry.






Name: Museum of the Poet Al Oqaili
Location: Inside the Al Ras historical district in Dubai, UAE
Date: 1923
Introduction: The former residence of the poet Al Oqaili (1875-1954). Al Oqaili is a very famous Arab writer who showed a great talent for poetry from a young age. In his middle age, he traveled around the Persian Gulf, living in places like Iraq, Bahrain, and Abu Dhabi, before finally settling in Dubai in the early 20th century. In 1923, he hired craftsmen from his hometown of Al-Ahsa to build this house. The entire building is made of coral, stone, plaster, teak, and palm fronds, along with a traditional Iranian building material called Sarooj. Sarooj is a waterproof mortar made by kneading clay and limestone for two days, then adding bathhouse furnace ash, cattail fibers, eggs, and straw, and finally beating it with wooden sticks.
In 1954, Al Oqaili passed away in this house at the age of 81. He never married or had children, so the house was inherited by his cousin who came from Saudi Arabia.








Name: Al Bait Al Qadeem Restaurant
Location: Inside the Al Ras historical district in Dubai, UAE
Year: 1909
Introduction: Al Bait Alqadeem means old house in Arabic. This restaurant is located in a traditional Gulf-style residence built in 1909 by a pearl boat owner named Abdulla Bin Jamaan, who was also a bodyguard for the ruler of Dubai at the time. In 1954, Abdulla Bin Jamaan became the first mayor of Dubai. Today, this old house has been turned into a restaurant serving traditional Gulf cuisine.





Name: Sharjah Heritage Museum
Location: Inside the Heart of Sharjah historical district in the old city of Sharjah, UAE.
Year: 1795
Introduction: The historical building housing the Sharjah Heritage Museum was built by pearl merchant Saeed bin Mohammed Al Shamsi in 1795. It is also known as Bait Saeed Al Taweel, which means the house of Saeed the Tall. The museum showcases the traditional lifestyle of the people of Sharjah through crafts, folk music, wedding ceremonies, and folktales.




Name: Bait Al Naboodah
Location: Inside the Heart of Sharjah historical district in the old city of Sharjah, UAE.
Year: 1845
Introduction: Bait Al Naboodah is one of the most famous traditional Gulf residences in Sharjah. It was built in 1845 by Obaid bin Eissa Bin Ali Al Shamsi, the wealthiest pearl merchant in 19th-century Sharjah, who was nicknamed Al Naboodah.
Al Naboodah's pearl trade reached Africa, France, and India, and he accumulated massive wealth, especially from his pearl trade with India. In 1845, Al Naboodah rebuilt his father's ancestral home. The new residence featured a large courtyard with coral stone walls, unique Indian teak columns, and plaster carvings made by Persian craftsmen. Additionally, this house did not use the traditional Emirati wind tower (barjeel), but instead pioneered the use of air-scoops (malaqaf) built along the inner walls to circulate air.
The descendants of Al Naboodah lived here until the 1970s, but the building was badly damaged due to years of neglect. In the 1990s, the Sharjah Museums Authority hired a team of historians to carry out a large-scale renovation that lasted several years, and it officially opened to the public in 1995.









The interactive display of the courtyard allows you to click on any building component on the screen to see an introduction and the restoration process for that part.




The coral stones used to build the courtyard come in two types: brain coral and fan coral. After being pulled from the seabed, these corals were dried in the sun, making them very light yet strong. Environmental protection laws now forbid the collection of coral stones, so limestone from the mountains had to be used to repair the damaged coral stones in the courtyard.


Summer temperatures in Sharjah can exceed 45 degrees Celsius. Many people used to hide in the mountains or oases to escape the heat between June and August, a summer migration route known as al maqeedh. With the summer house, people no longer had to travel inland to escape the heat during the summer.
Sharjah residents usually started preparing their summer houses at the end of March. They would coat the inside and outside of the house with a lime powder called norah, which reflects sunlight. The most important feature of the summer house is the many vents on the roof that help air circulate. During the day, wind blowing from the land flows into the house, and at night, the wind comes from the sea.


Toilet

Kitchen

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Islamic Architecture Guide: Tunisia and Egypt Traditional Homes - Courtyards, Rooms and Heritage
Reposted from the web
Summary: Tunisia and Egypt Traditional Homes - Courtyards, Rooms and Heritage is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, architecture, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Tunisia, Egypt, Traditional Homes.
Name: Dar Bach Hamba
Location: Southern part of the Medina of Tunis.
Date: Built in the 17th century.
Description: The Rassa family built Dar Bach Hamba in the 17th century. This family moved to Tunis from Tlemcen, Algeria, before the 16th century. The house was later owned by the Naccache family and Haj Ahmed Bach Hamba. During the French protectorate period (1881-1956), it became a school run by French nuns.
Dar Bach Hamba is a classic noble residence in the Medina of Tunis. It has a central courtyard with a grand room on each of its four sides, and the north and east rooms feature porches. Today, it serves as the office for the L'Art Rue association. This group works to promote local Tunisian art heritage and provides a space for children's art workshops, concerts, and art projects.









Name: Dar al Jaziri
Location: Northern part of the Medina of Tunis.
Date: Before the 18th century.
Description: Dar al Jaziri served as the home for the Jaziri family in Tunis from the 12th to the 18th century. The Neo Destour party, which led the Tunisian independence movement, held its second congress here in 1937. They also became the ruling party of Tunisia after 1956. Today, it houses the House of Poetry of Tunisia and hosts regular poetry readings.
Dar al Jaziri features a courtyard surrounded by a porch, with very classical columns and capitals, and a water well in the center of the courtyard.









Name: Dar El Monastiri.
Location: Northern part of the Medina of Tunis.
Date: Between 1814 and 1824.
Introduction: Dar El Monastiri was built by Al-Husayn II ibn Mahmud of the Husainid dynasty in Tunisia during the reign of his father, Mahmud (who ruled from 1814 to 1824). It was later given to the Chechia hat merchant M'hamed El Monastiri. After 1924, the building served as an arts and crafts school, an office for craft education, and a regional center for Tunisian arts. Today, it is the National Center for Calligraphy.
The courtyard inside Dar El Monastiri features intricate lime carvings and colorful tiles. The latticed windows (mashrabiya) on the second floor are also very distinctive.












Name: Dar El Bey.
Location: Southern part of the Medina of Kairouan, Tunisia.
Date: 18th century.
Introduction: Built in the 18th century, this former residence of the Bey of Kairouan is now a carpet shop. The house has 18 rooms inside with very fancy ceilings. But if you do not buy a rug, the shop staff might not show you all the rooms.









Name: Bayt al-Kritliyya
Location: Next to the Mosque of Ibn Tulun in Cairo, Egypt.
Date: 1545 and 1631.
Introduction: Bayt al-Kritliyya is built right against the outer wall of the Mosque of Ibn Tulun and is an outstanding example of a traditional Ottoman-era house in Cairo. The residence consists of two houses connected by a bridge. One was built by the scholar Abdel-Qader al-Haddad in 1545, and the other was built by Hajj Mohammad ibn al-Hajj Salem ibn Galman al-Gazzar in 1631. It was later owned by a Muslim noblewoman from the Greek island of Crete, which is how it got the name Bayt al-Kritliyya. In 1928, Egypt began clearing the houses outside the Mosque of Ibn Tulun. This house survived because it was well-preserved, and it was also restored. Major Gayer-Anderson moved into the house in 1935 and filled it with his collection of furniture, carpets, and antiques. When he left Egypt in 1942, he gave the house to the Committee for the Conservation of Arab Monuments, which later turned it into the Gayer-Anderson Museum.
Both houses have their own courtyards, each featuring a fountain from Gayer-Anderson's collection in the center. From one of the courtyards, you can climb up to the summer balcony (Maq'ad) with its horseshoe-shaped arches, where the owner and his guests would go to cool off during the summer.









After passing through the summer balcony, you reach the winter hall, which was the living area for men during the colder months. The hall features a beautiful carved wooden ceiling decorated with fine calligraphy.





Walking further inside leads to the women's and children's quarters (Haramlek), where you can look down over the entire courtyard through the latticed windows (Mashrabiya). The walls of the women's quarters are decorated with Persian and Turkish-style tiles, and the wooden ceilings feature scripture, plant motifs, and geometric patterns.




The largest room in the house is the celebration hall (Salamlek). This is a spacious Ottoman-style room. The lower marble area in the center is called a durqa'a, with a marble fountain (fasqiyya) at the very middle and an arched alcove (iwan) on each side. The room is decorated with verses by the Egyptian poet Ahmed Rami (1892-1981) and several wise sayings.









Above the celebration hall is the harem (haramlek), a space for women and children. From here, you can look down into the celebration hall and watch ceremonies and performances through the windows during festivals.





The third floor holds Gayer-Anderson's various collections, including the Persian, Egyptian, Byzantine, Chinese, Indian, and Turkish rooms. The collection covers major civilizations and is truly fascinating.









The water fountain (sabil) inside Bayt al-Kritliyya. In the old city of Cairo, a sabil is usually found on the side of a road for citizens to drink water, so having one inside a private residence is very rare. The sabil at Bayt al-Kritliyya was built in 1631. Its original painted wooden ceiling is perfectly preserved and features scriptures, the builder's name, and the date of construction. The sabil could store 500 cubic meters of water. Historically, the water carriers' guild (saqgain) was responsible for transporting this water, and the guild operated until the early 20th century.





Name: Bayt al-Suhaymi
Location: Inside the northern gate of Old Cairo, Egypt.
Date: Construction began in 1648, with expansions in 1797.
Introduction: Bayt al-Suhaymi is the best-preserved private Ottoman-era house in Old Cairo and is now open as a tourist site. The house is built around a courtyard (Sahn), which features a small garden with palm trees in the center. You can see beautiful wooden lattice windows (Mashrabiya) in the courtyard. The south side of the mansion is the original 1648 structure, while the north side was added in 1797. It is named after its last owner, Sheikh Muhammad Amin al-Suhaymi, who was a sheikh at Al-Azhar Mosque. In 1930, King Fuad I of Egypt provided funds to buy the mansion and placed it under the management of the Committee for the Conservation of Arab Art Monuments.


























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Summary: Tunisia and Egypt Traditional Homes - Courtyards, Rooms and Heritage is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, architecture, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Tunisia, Egypt, Traditional Homes.
Name: Dar Bach Hamba
Location: Southern part of the Medina of Tunis.
Date: Built in the 17th century.
Description: The Rassa family built Dar Bach Hamba in the 17th century. This family moved to Tunis from Tlemcen, Algeria, before the 16th century. The house was later owned by the Naccache family and Haj Ahmed Bach Hamba. During the French protectorate period (1881-1956), it became a school run by French nuns.
Dar Bach Hamba is a classic noble residence in the Medina of Tunis. It has a central courtyard with a grand room on each of its four sides, and the north and east rooms feature porches. Today, it serves as the office for the L'Art Rue association. This group works to promote local Tunisian art heritage and provides a space for children's art workshops, concerts, and art projects.









Name: Dar al Jaziri
Location: Northern part of the Medina of Tunis.
Date: Before the 18th century.
Description: Dar al Jaziri served as the home for the Jaziri family in Tunis from the 12th to the 18th century. The Neo Destour party, which led the Tunisian independence movement, held its second congress here in 1937. They also became the ruling party of Tunisia after 1956. Today, it houses the House of Poetry of Tunisia and hosts regular poetry readings.
Dar al Jaziri features a courtyard surrounded by a porch, with very classical columns and capitals, and a water well in the center of the courtyard.









Name: Dar El Monastiri.
Location: Northern part of the Medina of Tunis.
Date: Between 1814 and 1824.
Introduction: Dar El Monastiri was built by Al-Husayn II ibn Mahmud of the Husainid dynasty in Tunisia during the reign of his father, Mahmud (who ruled from 1814 to 1824). It was later given to the Chechia hat merchant M'hamed El Monastiri. After 1924, the building served as an arts and crafts school, an office for craft education, and a regional center for Tunisian arts. Today, it is the National Center for Calligraphy.
The courtyard inside Dar El Monastiri features intricate lime carvings and colorful tiles. The latticed windows (mashrabiya) on the second floor are also very distinctive.












Name: Dar El Bey.
Location: Southern part of the Medina of Kairouan, Tunisia.
Date: 18th century.
Introduction: Built in the 18th century, this former residence of the Bey of Kairouan is now a carpet shop. The house has 18 rooms inside with very fancy ceilings. But if you do not buy a rug, the shop staff might not show you all the rooms.









Name: Bayt al-Kritliyya
Location: Next to the Mosque of Ibn Tulun in Cairo, Egypt.
Date: 1545 and 1631.
Introduction: Bayt al-Kritliyya is built right against the outer wall of the Mosque of Ibn Tulun and is an outstanding example of a traditional Ottoman-era house in Cairo. The residence consists of two houses connected by a bridge. One was built by the scholar Abdel-Qader al-Haddad in 1545, and the other was built by Hajj Mohammad ibn al-Hajj Salem ibn Galman al-Gazzar in 1631. It was later owned by a Muslim noblewoman from the Greek island of Crete, which is how it got the name Bayt al-Kritliyya. In 1928, Egypt began clearing the houses outside the Mosque of Ibn Tulun. This house survived because it was well-preserved, and it was also restored. Major Gayer-Anderson moved into the house in 1935 and filled it with his collection of furniture, carpets, and antiques. When he left Egypt in 1942, he gave the house to the Committee for the Conservation of Arab Monuments, which later turned it into the Gayer-Anderson Museum.
Both houses have their own courtyards, each featuring a fountain from Gayer-Anderson's collection in the center. From one of the courtyards, you can climb up to the summer balcony (Maq'ad) with its horseshoe-shaped arches, where the owner and his guests would go to cool off during the summer.









After passing through the summer balcony, you reach the winter hall, which was the living area for men during the colder months. The hall features a beautiful carved wooden ceiling decorated with fine calligraphy.





Walking further inside leads to the women's and children's quarters (Haramlek), where you can look down over the entire courtyard through the latticed windows (Mashrabiya). The walls of the women's quarters are decorated with Persian and Turkish-style tiles, and the wooden ceilings feature scripture, plant motifs, and geometric patterns.




The largest room in the house is the celebration hall (Salamlek). This is a spacious Ottoman-style room. The lower marble area in the center is called a durqa'a, with a marble fountain (fasqiyya) at the very middle and an arched alcove (iwan) on each side. The room is decorated with verses by the Egyptian poet Ahmed Rami (1892-1981) and several wise sayings.









Above the celebration hall is the harem (haramlek), a space for women and children. From here, you can look down into the celebration hall and watch ceremonies and performances through the windows during festivals.





The third floor holds Gayer-Anderson's various collections, including the Persian, Egyptian, Byzantine, Chinese, Indian, and Turkish rooms. The collection covers major civilizations and is truly fascinating.









The water fountain (sabil) inside Bayt al-Kritliyya. In the old city of Cairo, a sabil is usually found on the side of a road for citizens to drink water, so having one inside a private residence is very rare. The sabil at Bayt al-Kritliyya was built in 1631. Its original painted wooden ceiling is perfectly preserved and features scriptures, the builder's name, and the date of construction. The sabil could store 500 cubic meters of water. Historically, the water carriers' guild (saqgain) was responsible for transporting this water, and the guild operated until the early 20th century.





Name: Bayt al-Suhaymi
Location: Inside the northern gate of Old Cairo, Egypt.
Date: Construction began in 1648, with expansions in 1797.
Introduction: Bayt al-Suhaymi is the best-preserved private Ottoman-era house in Old Cairo and is now open as a tourist site. The house is built around a courtyard (Sahn), which features a small garden with palm trees in the center. You can see beautiful wooden lattice windows (Mashrabiya) in the courtyard. The south side of the mansion is the original 1648 structure, while the north side was added in 1797. It is named after its last owner, Sheikh Muhammad Amin al-Suhaymi, who was a sheikh at Al-Azhar Mosque. In 1930, King Fuad I of Egypt provided funds to buy the mansion and placed it under the management of the Committee for the Conservation of Arab Art Monuments.


























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Halal Travel Guide: Hammamet, Tunisia - Ancient Medina, Beach and Muslim Heritage
Reposted from the web
Summary: Hammamet, Tunisia - Ancient Medina, Beach and Muslim Heritage is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, architecture, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Hammamet, Tunisia Travel, Muslim Heritage.
Hammamet sits halfway between Tunisia's two major cities, Tunis and Sousse, and it is very easy to reach by shared taxi (louage) from either one. Hammamet has been a resort destination since the 1990s, with countless hotels lining the beach and streets full of European faces. The old walled city (medina) here is only about 200 meters long, but it is the most crowded one I have ever seen.
At noon, we caught a ride from the shared taxi station (Station Louage de Sousse) in the southern suburbs of Sousse and arrived at the Hammamet Sud intersection on the west side of Hammamet an hour later, then took a taxi to the old medina. Be aware that Hammamet has two medinas; one is a new replica built by the sea in the 1990s, and we went to the wrong one at first. To get to the old medina, we had to tell the taxi driver we were going to the Hammamet fortress before he understood.
Restaurants near the medina are mostly clustered outside the north wall, serving a mix of Tunisian food and Western dishes. We went to Restaurant Yuman, which has a great view of the fortress and the beach. We ordered pan-fried sea bass and a mixed grill platter. The grill included North African sausage (Merguez), steak, lamb chops, and chicken, all classic dishes from the Tunisian coast.
When ordering at a restaurant in Tunisia, you basically only need to order the main course. Appetizers and staples are served for free. After we placed our order, they first brought us thick soup, followed by a baguette and an appetizer platter. The appetizers included Tunisian salad, carrot salad (Houria), and green pepper salad (Mechouia). We ate these three almost every day in Tunisia. Tunisian salad is just diced cucumber, tomato, and onion mixed with olive oil. Higher-end versions also include boiled eggs and tuna. Green pepper salad (Mechouia) contains green peppers, tomatoes, onions, garlic, and other ingredients. Tunisians love it, and it is rich in vitamins and very healthy.









Hammamet Fortress was first built in 893 AD by order of Ibrahim II, an emir of the Arab Aghlabid dynasty. During this period, the Aghlabid dynasty was constantly conquering Sicily, which was under the control of the Byzantine Empire, while also suppressing Berber uprisings.
The Hammamet Fortress is very sturdy and was built mainly to defend against pirate raids from places like Catalonia and Malta. The fortress was destroyed by the Spanish in the 12th century, rebuilt twice in the 14th and 15th centuries, and the upper walls were strengthened by the Ottoman Empire during the 16th and 17th centuries.
In 1605, a joint fleet from the Spanish Empire, the Kingdom of Sicily, and the Knights Hospitaller attacked the Ottoman-controlled Hammamet Fortress. A heavy rainstorm destroyed their ships and caused massive casualties for the allied forces, making this the most famous battle at the fortress.









Inside the fortress, there are quite a few pine trees, which is rare. There is also a teahouse on the city walls with a great view. In the center of the fortress stands a tomb from the late 15th century. The person buried there, Sidi Bou-Ali Mohamed, was once stationed here and was very devout in his faith.









The walls and gates of the old medina in Hammamet. Hammamet grew from a military fortress into a medina city in the 13th century, so walls were built around the residential area of the medina in the mid-13th century.


The Haouara Gate by the sea was built by the Berber Haouara tribe in the 15th century. They attacked the Hammamet Medina from the sea and saved the city from the enemy.



Sidi Bouhdid Gate leads to the gongbei (Zawiya) of the saint Sidi Bouhdid, which was built in the 18th century. Sidi Bouhdid was a Moroccan who came to Hammamet in the 12th century and spent his time guarding the safety of fishermen by the sea. He died fighting the Normans in 1178 and was buried by the city walls. Today, there is a very popular cafe here.




The streets of the old Hammamet Medina have the classic Tunisian blue-and-white town style, with bougainvillea planted along the streets and iron nails decorating the wooden doors. Hammamet Medina reached its peak in the 14th century, which was also the period when pirate raids from Pisa and Catalonia were most frequent.
After the Ottoman Empire conquered Hammamet in 1574, many Ottoman officers and soldiers were stationed in the city. These Ottomans were strongly influenced by Tunisian culture and were quickly assimilated. The descendants of Ottoman officers and Tunisian women are called Kouloughlis, and many of them have paternal roots in Izmir, Turkey. Unlike the local Tunisians who follow the Maliki school, the Kouloughlis still follow the Hanafi school.


The only date palm tree in the old city is located in the center of Errahba Square. This square was originally the site of two houses belonging to the Bennila family, which were destroyed by bombing during World War II, leaving only the date palm tree behind.







I performed the afternoon namaz at the Great Mosque of Hammamet. Tunisia follows the Maliki school, where the practice of raising the hands once (for the imam) and raising the hands once or three times (for others) coexist peacefully. After the prayer, people stood for the funeral prayer (namaz) right inside the main hall, and the body (mayyit) was kept there too. This is quite different from our Hanafi practice.
The Great Mosque of Hammamet was started in the 12th century and finished in the 13th century. The minaret (bangke ta) was added later in 1463. During this same period, Hammamet grew from a coastal fortress into a residential medina city area. The stone pillars in the Great Mosque of Hammamet are different colors because many were collected from nearby ancient Roman ruins.









In the bazaars of the old city in Tunisia, you often see religious paintings. They show scenes like the Prophet Adam, the sacrifice of Ibrahim, and the Ark of Nuh. The art style is very cute. In the old city of Hammamet, I bought a painting of the Buraq, the creature the noble Prophet rode during his Night Journey (Mi'raj). Although the Hadith does not describe the Buraq's face, it mentions it had a handsome face. Because of this, Persian and South Asian miniature paintings often show the Buraq with a human face and a horse's body. In the Mindanao region of the southern Philippines, people even carve wooden statues of the Buraq.









The bazaars and streets inside the ancient medina of Hammamet.









Looking out at the Mediterranean Sea from the ancient walled city (medina) of Hammamet. This place is just over 200 kilometers from Sicily, Italy. It has been a key spot for controlling the Mediterranean since ancient times, but today it serves as a backyard getaway for European tourists.









Some old houses inside the medina of Hammamet.
The public bathhouse across from the Great Mosque, built in the early 17th century by Abul-l-Gayth al-Qashache. In 1602, Hammamet was attacked by the Knights Hospitaller and many people were taken captive. It was Abul-l-Gayth who paid the ransom to bring them home.

The Islamic school (madrasa) behind the Great Mosque, where children were having class when we visited.



An art studio with an artist-in-residence painting inside.


Another gallery, where we saw a woman making traditional clothing during our visit.



A view overlooking the old city





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Summary: Hammamet, Tunisia - Ancient Medina, Beach and Muslim Heritage is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, architecture, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Hammamet, Tunisia Travel, Muslim Heritage.
Hammamet sits halfway between Tunisia's two major cities, Tunis and Sousse, and it is very easy to reach by shared taxi (louage) from either one. Hammamet has been a resort destination since the 1990s, with countless hotels lining the beach and streets full of European faces. The old walled city (medina) here is only about 200 meters long, but it is the most crowded one I have ever seen.
At noon, we caught a ride from the shared taxi station (Station Louage de Sousse) in the southern suburbs of Sousse and arrived at the Hammamet Sud intersection on the west side of Hammamet an hour later, then took a taxi to the old medina. Be aware that Hammamet has two medinas; one is a new replica built by the sea in the 1990s, and we went to the wrong one at first. To get to the old medina, we had to tell the taxi driver we were going to the Hammamet fortress before he understood.
Restaurants near the medina are mostly clustered outside the north wall, serving a mix of Tunisian food and Western dishes. We went to Restaurant Yuman, which has a great view of the fortress and the beach. We ordered pan-fried sea bass and a mixed grill platter. The grill included North African sausage (Merguez), steak, lamb chops, and chicken, all classic dishes from the Tunisian coast.
When ordering at a restaurant in Tunisia, you basically only need to order the main course. Appetizers and staples are served for free. After we placed our order, they first brought us thick soup, followed by a baguette and an appetizer platter. The appetizers included Tunisian salad, carrot salad (Houria), and green pepper salad (Mechouia). We ate these three almost every day in Tunisia. Tunisian salad is just diced cucumber, tomato, and onion mixed with olive oil. Higher-end versions also include boiled eggs and tuna. Green pepper salad (Mechouia) contains green peppers, tomatoes, onions, garlic, and other ingredients. Tunisians love it, and it is rich in vitamins and very healthy.









Hammamet Fortress was first built in 893 AD by order of Ibrahim II, an emir of the Arab Aghlabid dynasty. During this period, the Aghlabid dynasty was constantly conquering Sicily, which was under the control of the Byzantine Empire, while also suppressing Berber uprisings.
The Hammamet Fortress is very sturdy and was built mainly to defend against pirate raids from places like Catalonia and Malta. The fortress was destroyed by the Spanish in the 12th century, rebuilt twice in the 14th and 15th centuries, and the upper walls were strengthened by the Ottoman Empire during the 16th and 17th centuries.
In 1605, a joint fleet from the Spanish Empire, the Kingdom of Sicily, and the Knights Hospitaller attacked the Ottoman-controlled Hammamet Fortress. A heavy rainstorm destroyed their ships and caused massive casualties for the allied forces, making this the most famous battle at the fortress.









Inside the fortress, there are quite a few pine trees, which is rare. There is also a teahouse on the city walls with a great view. In the center of the fortress stands a tomb from the late 15th century. The person buried there, Sidi Bou-Ali Mohamed, was once stationed here and was very devout in his faith.









The walls and gates of the old medina in Hammamet. Hammamet grew from a military fortress into a medina city in the 13th century, so walls were built around the residential area of the medina in the mid-13th century.


The Haouara Gate by the sea was built by the Berber Haouara tribe in the 15th century. They attacked the Hammamet Medina from the sea and saved the city from the enemy.



Sidi Bouhdid Gate leads to the gongbei (Zawiya) of the saint Sidi Bouhdid, which was built in the 18th century. Sidi Bouhdid was a Moroccan who came to Hammamet in the 12th century and spent his time guarding the safety of fishermen by the sea. He died fighting the Normans in 1178 and was buried by the city walls. Today, there is a very popular cafe here.




The streets of the old Hammamet Medina have the classic Tunisian blue-and-white town style, with bougainvillea planted along the streets and iron nails decorating the wooden doors. Hammamet Medina reached its peak in the 14th century, which was also the period when pirate raids from Pisa and Catalonia were most frequent.
After the Ottoman Empire conquered Hammamet in 1574, many Ottoman officers and soldiers were stationed in the city. These Ottomans were strongly influenced by Tunisian culture and were quickly assimilated. The descendants of Ottoman officers and Tunisian women are called Kouloughlis, and many of them have paternal roots in Izmir, Turkey. Unlike the local Tunisians who follow the Maliki school, the Kouloughlis still follow the Hanafi school.


The only date palm tree in the old city is located in the center of Errahba Square. This square was originally the site of two houses belonging to the Bennila family, which were destroyed by bombing during World War II, leaving only the date palm tree behind.







I performed the afternoon namaz at the Great Mosque of Hammamet. Tunisia follows the Maliki school, where the practice of raising the hands once (for the imam) and raising the hands once or three times (for others) coexist peacefully. After the prayer, people stood for the funeral prayer (namaz) right inside the main hall, and the body (mayyit) was kept there too. This is quite different from our Hanafi practice.
The Great Mosque of Hammamet was started in the 12th century and finished in the 13th century. The minaret (bangke ta) was added later in 1463. During this same period, Hammamet grew from a coastal fortress into a residential medina city area. The stone pillars in the Great Mosque of Hammamet are different colors because many were collected from nearby ancient Roman ruins.









In the bazaars of the old city in Tunisia, you often see religious paintings. They show scenes like the Prophet Adam, the sacrifice of Ibrahim, and the Ark of Nuh. The art style is very cute. In the old city of Hammamet, I bought a painting of the Buraq, the creature the noble Prophet rode during his Night Journey (Mi'raj). Although the Hadith does not describe the Buraq's face, it mentions it had a handsome face. Because of this, Persian and South Asian miniature paintings often show the Buraq with a human face and a horse's body. In the Mindanao region of the southern Philippines, people even carve wooden statues of the Buraq.









The bazaars and streets inside the ancient medina of Hammamet.









Looking out at the Mediterranean Sea from the ancient walled city (medina) of Hammamet. This place is just over 200 kilometers from Sicily, Italy. It has been a key spot for controlling the Mediterranean since ancient times, but today it serves as a backyard getaway for European tourists.









Some old houses inside the medina of Hammamet.
The public bathhouse across from the Great Mosque, built in the early 17th century by Abul-l-Gayth al-Qashache. In 1602, Hammamet was attacked by the Knights Hospitaller and many people were taken captive. It was Abul-l-Gayth who paid the ransom to bring them home.

The Islamic school (madrasa) behind the Great Mosque, where children were having class when we visited.



An art studio with an artist-in-residence painting inside.


Another gallery, where we saw a woman making traditional clothing during our visit.



A view overlooking the old city





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Islamic Architecture Guide: Southeastern Turkey Traditional Homes - Courtyards and Stone Houses
Reposted from the web
Summary: Southeastern Turkey Traditional Homes - Courtyards and Stone Houses is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, architecture, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Turkey, Traditional Homes, Architecture.
Continued from the previous post: Visiting traditional homes in Tunisia and Egypt.
Name: İskender Paşa Konağı.
Location: Northwest of the old city of Diyarbakır, Turkey.
Date: 1551.
Introduction: This home was built in 1551 by İskender Paşa, the twelfth governor of the Ottoman Empire in Diyarbakır, during the peak of the Ottoman Empire under Suleiman the Magnificent. Today, the mansion houses a breakfast shop, and a plane tree that is over 400 years old still stands in the courtyard.
During the 1540s and 1550s, İskender Paşa spent years on the eastern border of the Ottoman Empire fighting the Georgians and the Persian Safavid Empire, successfully stopping the Safavid Empire from moving westward.









Name: Ziya Gokalp Museum.
Location: Northwest of the old city of Diyarbakır, Turkey.
Date: Early 19th century
Introduction: The Ziya Gökalp Museum, dedicated to the father of Turkish nationalism, is housed in a black basalt home built in the early 19th century. His family bought the house in 1824, and he was born there in 1876.
In 2014, ISIS besieged the Syrian Kurdish city of Kobani, leaving many Kurds displaced. Because the Turkish government viewed the Kurdish People's Protection Units (YPG) defending Kobani as a threat, they blocked Turkish Kurds from helping. This led to large-scale protests by Turkish Kurds. During the clashes, the Ziya Gökalp Museum was damaged, and some archives and books were destroyed. The Association of Turkish Travel Agencies (TÜRSAB) later restored it.








Name: Cemil Paşa Konağı
Location: Southwest of the old city of Diyarbakır, Turkey
Date: Between 1888 and 1902.
Introduction: The Cemil Paşa Mansion (Cemil Paşa Konağı) is the best-preserved traditional house in Diyarbakır, and it now serves as the Diyarbakır City Museum.
Cemil Paşa served as the Ottoman governor of Yemen and later the governor of Siirt. He built this mansion between 1888 and 1902 and lived there until 1927. In 2012, the Diyarbakır municipal government reached an agreement with Cemil Paşa's descendants to restore the mansion, and it officially opened as a city museum in 2014.
The Cemil Paşa Mansion consists of two large courtyards. One is called the Harem, a private area for family life, and the other is called the Selamlık, a public area for receiving guests and discussing business. This layout was the standard design for mansions built by high-ranking officials during the Ottoman Empire. The north side of the Harem was the winter residence, which gets plenty of sun, while the south side was the summer residence, which stays in the shade to keep cool. The Selamlık includes stables, servant rooms, reception rooms, a coffee room, and a water pool.
The interior displays of the Cemil Paşa Mansion, now the Diyarbakır City Museum, cover all aspects of life for the Kurds in Turkey.















Name: Şehzadeler Konağı
Location: Southeast of the old city of Diyarbakır, Turkey
Date: Late 16th century
Description: The Prince's Mansion (Şehzadeler Konağı) is an Ottoman-era house built in the late 16th century. It was severely damaged during the 2015 conflict between Turkey and the Kurdistan Workers' Party. Restoration began in 2021, and it was still under construction when I visited in 2023. We met a friend (dosti) at the Kurşunlu Mosque who works here, and he warmly invited us for tea.
Once the restoration is finished, it is expected to open as a literary youth center named after the famous Diyarbakır poet Sezai Karakoç, who passed away in 2021, serving as a home for literature for young people.






Name: Hacı Halid Konağı
Location: Northwest of the old city of Diyarbakır, Turkey.
Date: Late 19th century.
Introduction: On the north side of the Great Mosque of Diyarbakir stands the Haji Khalid House (Haci Halid Evi), a traditional home over 120 years old that is now open to the public as the Ahmed Arif Literature Museum. Ahmed Arif (1927-1991) was a famous poet from Diyarbakir. His father was a Turkmen from Iraq and his mother was Kurdish. His poetry is deeply influenced by Anatolian folk literature and is widely loved by people across Turkey.



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Summary: Southeastern Turkey Traditional Homes - Courtyards and Stone Houses is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, architecture, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Turkey, Traditional Homes, Architecture.
Continued from the previous post: Visiting traditional homes in Tunisia and Egypt.
Name: İskender Paşa Konağı.
Location: Northwest of the old city of Diyarbakır, Turkey.
Date: 1551.
Introduction: This home was built in 1551 by İskender Paşa, the twelfth governor of the Ottoman Empire in Diyarbakır, during the peak of the Ottoman Empire under Suleiman the Magnificent. Today, the mansion houses a breakfast shop, and a plane tree that is over 400 years old still stands in the courtyard.
During the 1540s and 1550s, İskender Paşa spent years on the eastern border of the Ottoman Empire fighting the Georgians and the Persian Safavid Empire, successfully stopping the Safavid Empire from moving westward.









Name: Ziya Gokalp Museum.
Location: Northwest of the old city of Diyarbakır, Turkey.
Date: Early 19th century
Introduction: The Ziya Gökalp Museum, dedicated to the father of Turkish nationalism, is housed in a black basalt home built in the early 19th century. His family bought the house in 1824, and he was born there in 1876.
In 2014, ISIS besieged the Syrian Kurdish city of Kobani, leaving many Kurds displaced. Because the Turkish government viewed the Kurdish People's Protection Units (YPG) defending Kobani as a threat, they blocked Turkish Kurds from helping. This led to large-scale protests by Turkish Kurds. During the clashes, the Ziya Gökalp Museum was damaged, and some archives and books were destroyed. The Association of Turkish Travel Agencies (TÜRSAB) later restored it.








Name: Cemil Paşa Konağı
Location: Southwest of the old city of Diyarbakır, Turkey
Date: Between 1888 and 1902.
Introduction: The Cemil Paşa Mansion (Cemil Paşa Konağı) is the best-preserved traditional house in Diyarbakır, and it now serves as the Diyarbakır City Museum.
Cemil Paşa served as the Ottoman governor of Yemen and later the governor of Siirt. He built this mansion between 1888 and 1902 and lived there until 1927. In 2012, the Diyarbakır municipal government reached an agreement with Cemil Paşa's descendants to restore the mansion, and it officially opened as a city museum in 2014.
The Cemil Paşa Mansion consists of two large courtyards. One is called the Harem, a private area for family life, and the other is called the Selamlık, a public area for receiving guests and discussing business. This layout was the standard design for mansions built by high-ranking officials during the Ottoman Empire. The north side of the Harem was the winter residence, which gets plenty of sun, while the south side was the summer residence, which stays in the shade to keep cool. The Selamlık includes stables, servant rooms, reception rooms, a coffee room, and a water pool.
The interior displays of the Cemil Paşa Mansion, now the Diyarbakır City Museum, cover all aspects of life for the Kurds in Turkey.















Name: Şehzadeler Konağı
Location: Southeast of the old city of Diyarbakır, Turkey
Date: Late 16th century
Description: The Prince's Mansion (Şehzadeler Konağı) is an Ottoman-era house built in the late 16th century. It was severely damaged during the 2015 conflict between Turkey and the Kurdistan Workers' Party. Restoration began in 2021, and it was still under construction when I visited in 2023. We met a friend (dosti) at the Kurşunlu Mosque who works here, and he warmly invited us for tea.
Once the restoration is finished, it is expected to open as a literary youth center named after the famous Diyarbakır poet Sezai Karakoç, who passed away in 2021, serving as a home for literature for young people.






Name: Hacı Halid Konağı
Location: Northwest of the old city of Diyarbakır, Turkey.
Date: Late 19th century.
Introduction: On the north side of the Great Mosque of Diyarbakir stands the Haji Khalid House (Haci Halid Evi), a traditional home over 120 years old that is now open to the public as the Ahmed Arif Literature Museum. Ahmed Arif (1927-1991) was a famous poet from Diyarbakir. His father was a Turkmen from Iraq and his mother was Kurdish. His poetry is deeply influenced by Anatolian folk literature and is widely loved by people across Turkey.



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Muslim Culture Guide: Beijing Temple of Heaven Park - Arab Culture and Community
Reposted from the web
Summary: Beijing Temple of Heaven Park - Arab Culture and Community is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, architecture, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Temple of Heaven, Arab Culture, Beijing.
Last Saturday at noon, we went to the Temple of Heaven Park for the Saudi Tourism Festival hosted by the Saudi Tourism Authority. It is located outside the East Gate of the Hall of Abstinence (Zhaigong) and runs from October 18 to 26.
The Temple of Heaven is always crowded on autumn weekends. When we arrived around one or two o'clock, there were lines for Arabic coffee, agarwood, trying on traditional clothing for photos, and getting names written in Arabic calligraphy. For other activities, staff members would remind people not to linger after watching for a while. However, some friends (dost) who went around three or four o'clock said they had already started limiting entry, and it stayed crowded until the evening. I expect it will be less crowded on weekdays.
Besides drinking Arabic coffee and taking photos in traditional clothes, you can listen to performances of the traditional Arabic oud, qanun, and kawala flute. There are also carpet weaving and flower crown making, so there is a wide variety of things to do.











Live demonstrations of the Arabic oud, qanun, and kawala flute. Collapse Read »
Summary: Beijing Temple of Heaven Park - Arab Culture and Community is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, architecture, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Temple of Heaven, Arab Culture, Beijing.
Last Saturday at noon, we went to the Temple of Heaven Park for the Saudi Tourism Festival hosted by the Saudi Tourism Authority. It is located outside the East Gate of the Hall of Abstinence (Zhaigong) and runs from October 18 to 26.
The Temple of Heaven is always crowded on autumn weekends. When we arrived around one or two o'clock, there were lines for Arabic coffee, agarwood, trying on traditional clothing for photos, and getting names written in Arabic calligraphy. For other activities, staff members would remind people not to linger after watching for a while. However, some friends (dost) who went around three or four o'clock said they had already started limiting entry, and it stayed crowded until the evening. I expect it will be less crowded on weekdays.
Besides drinking Arabic coffee and taking photos in traditional clothes, you can listen to performances of the traditional Arabic oud, qanun, and kawala flute. There are also carpet weaving and flower crown making, so there is a wide variety of things to do.











Live demonstrations of the Arabic oud, qanun, and kawala flute. Collapse Read »
Halal Food Guide: Beijing Malaysia Festival 2024 - Malaysian Food and Culture
Reposted from the web
Summary: Beijing Malaysia Festival 2024 - Malaysian Food and Culture is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, architecture, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Malaysian Food, Beijing Festival, Halal Food.
I went to the Rasa Malaysia festival at the West Square of Taikoo Li Sanlitun yesterday. It is still on today from 11:30 to 21:00.
We started at the Chinese stall Mari (Mari Fang) for some Ipoh white coffee. Then we went to the Malay stall Perwakilan Beijing to buy blue pea flower rice (Nasi Kerabu), folded pancake (Apam Balik), and rose syrup grass jelly drink (Bandung Cincau). Finally, we went to the Indian mamak stall Yummy Indian Mamak to buy egg flatbread (Roti Telur). You could say we tried food from all three major ethnic groups in Malaysia! The Indian flatbread had a long line because they were making it fresh on the spot, but I only waited about ten minutes to get mine.


Blue pea flower rice (Nasi Kerabu) is a traditional dish from the Kelantan and Terengganu regions on the east coast of the Malay Peninsula. It is also very popular in Malay communities in southern Thailand, where it is seen as an important cultural symbol. To make the rice, you soak it in butterfly pea flower water and add spices like lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, and pandan. Besides the rice, the dish comes with dried small fish, grilled chicken, stuffed chili with fish paste (Solok Lada), salted egg, and crackers (Krupuk).


Legend says the folded pancake (Apam Balik) was created in 1855 when Zuo Zongtang led his army into Fujian to suppress the Taiping Rebellion. He adapted a northern-style wrap into a sweet version filled with sugar and crushed peanuts. Later, Fujianese people brought it to Southeast Asia, where it spread to Malaysia, Indonesia, Brunei, and Singapore, becoming a classic street snack. In Malaysia, the folded pancake made by Chinese vendors is usually thicker, while the version made by Malay vendors is typically thinner.


Roti Telur is a type of South Indian flatbread (roti canai) brought to Malaysia in the 19th century during the British colonial era by Tamil Muslims. Roti Telur is also called egg "tossed bread" (roti telur) because the dough is constantly tossed to make it thinner and thinner. At the mamak stall (mamak dang), the classic way to eat Roti Telur is with various curries. We poured chicken curry over ours, and it smelled amazing.



There are two more shows today, one at 2:10 PM and one at 6:30 PM. The performances include lion dance with twenty-four festive drums, singing and dancing, Chinese yo-yo (diabolo), and the Kadazan bamboo dance. Suleiman even tried the bamboo dance, haha. Collapse Read »
Summary: Beijing Malaysia Festival 2024 - Malaysian Food and Culture is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, architecture, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Malaysian Food, Beijing Festival, Halal Food.
I went to the Rasa Malaysia festival at the West Square of Taikoo Li Sanlitun yesterday. It is still on today from 11:30 to 21:00.
We started at the Chinese stall Mari (Mari Fang) for some Ipoh white coffee. Then we went to the Malay stall Perwakilan Beijing to buy blue pea flower rice (Nasi Kerabu), folded pancake (Apam Balik), and rose syrup grass jelly drink (Bandung Cincau). Finally, we went to the Indian mamak stall Yummy Indian Mamak to buy egg flatbread (Roti Telur). You could say we tried food from all three major ethnic groups in Malaysia! The Indian flatbread had a long line because they were making it fresh on the spot, but I only waited about ten minutes to get mine.


Blue pea flower rice (Nasi Kerabu) is a traditional dish from the Kelantan and Terengganu regions on the east coast of the Malay Peninsula. It is also very popular in Malay communities in southern Thailand, where it is seen as an important cultural symbol. To make the rice, you soak it in butterfly pea flower water and add spices like lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, and pandan. Besides the rice, the dish comes with dried small fish, grilled chicken, stuffed chili with fish paste (Solok Lada), salted egg, and crackers (Krupuk).


Legend says the folded pancake (Apam Balik) was created in 1855 when Zuo Zongtang led his army into Fujian to suppress the Taiping Rebellion. He adapted a northern-style wrap into a sweet version filled with sugar and crushed peanuts. Later, Fujianese people brought it to Southeast Asia, where it spread to Malaysia, Indonesia, Brunei, and Singapore, becoming a classic street snack. In Malaysia, the folded pancake made by Chinese vendors is usually thicker, while the version made by Malay vendors is typically thinner.


Roti Telur is a type of South Indian flatbread (roti canai) brought to Malaysia in the 19th century during the British colonial era by Tamil Muslims. Roti Telur is also called egg "tossed bread" (roti telur) because the dough is constantly tossed to make it thinner and thinner. At the mamak stall (mamak dang), the classic way to eat Roti Telur is with various curries. We poured chicken curry over ours, and it smelled amazing.



There are two more shows today, one at 2:10 PM and one at 6:30 PM. The performances include lion dance with twenty-four festive drums, singing and dancing, Chinese yo-yo (diabolo), and the Kadazan bamboo dance. Suleiman even tried the bamboo dance, haha. Collapse Read »
Islamic History Guide: Monastir, Tunisia - Old Arab Fortress and Coastal Heritage (Part 1)
Reposted from the web
Summary: Monastir, Tunisia - Old Arab Fortress and Coastal Heritage (Part 1) is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, architecture, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Monastir, Tunisia, Arab Fortress.
Take a yellow minibus from the entrance of the Great Mosque of Sousse, and you will reach Monastir, another ancient city by the Mediterranean Sea, in 30 minutes. After arriving, we first had a French-style breakfast at a restaurant called Resto My Cocoon. Many restaurants in Tunisia offer breakfast sets, so you do not need to order dishes individually. The set we chose included coffee, juice, chocolate cake, chocolate cookies, jam, fried eggs, various sausages, butter, and bread. As a Mediterranean coastal region, various sausages, dairy products, and jams are essential parts of breakfast.









To defend against Byzantine ship attacks, the Arab Abbasid dynasty built a series of fortresses along the North African Mediterranean coast. The only one that remains today, and the most magnificent, is the Ribat of Monastir, which was ordered to be built in 796 by the Abbasid governor Harthama ibn A'yan. As the oldest and most important Arab fortress in the entire Maghreb region (western North Africa), the Ribat of Monastir attracts many visitors.
When the Ribat of Monastir was first built in 796, it only had one courtyard, and the current museum section is part of the original structure. The fortress was expanded twice, first during the Aghlabid dynasty in the 9th century and again in 966 under the Fatimid dynasty. The prayer hall on the south side dates back to this period. In 1424, the Hafsid dynasty carried out a large-scale expansion of the fortress, creating a layout with two courtyards. During the 18th and 19th centuries, the Ottoman dynasty added many buttresses and towers around the fortress to mount cannons, which gave the structure its current appearance.


















The Monastir Fortress houses a museum inside the oldest section, which was built by the Abbasid dynasty in the 8th century. The exhibition hall was once the fortress prayer hall, and the mihrab still features its original marble carvings.



A collection of stone tablets with Arabic inscriptions is displayed at the museum entrance, featuring very ornate calligraphy.







Sundial

9th to 10th-century Arabic pottery


15th-century mosaic tiles.


18th-century Ottoman-era porcelain.

Stone steles from 859 and 1028.


Textiles from the Fatimid to Mamluk dynasties in Egypt.









The museum's most important collection features 9th to 11th-century wooden components from the main hall of the Great Mosque of Kairouan. Seeing this thousand-year-old North African woodwork is truly stunning.








Inscribed steles held at the Ribat of Monastir Museum.











Next to the Ribat of Monastir stands the Great Mosque of Monastir, which also has a thousand-year history. The Great Mosque of Monastir was first built in the 9th century during the rule of the Aghlabid dynasty. The Aghlabid dynasty was an Arab dynasty of the Hanafi school that was nominally a vassal of the Abbasid Caliphate. They valued trans-Saharan and Mediterranean trade and conquered Sardinia, Sicily, and the southern Italian peninsula. Architecture from the Aghlabid period has a typical fortress style, and the Great Mosque was built to look like a military castle.
During the 11th-century Zirid dynasty, the Great Mosque of Monastir was expanded, and the mihrab, which now features a typical Zirid style, was built. Unfortunately, except for a very small number of mosques open to tourists in the morning, most mosques in Tunisia are locked outside of the five daily namaz times, so we could not go inside to visit.
During the Hafsid dynasty, the Great Mosque continued to be expanded, and the current watchtower was built. The Great Mosque was finally completed in the 18th century with the addition of the current porch. The most unique feature of the Great Mosque of Monastir is that there is no dome above the mihrab, which is very rare among ancient mosques in Tunisia.









On the south side of the Monastir fortress, there is another fortress called Sidi Dhouib. Like the Great Mosque, this fortress was built in the 9th century during the Aghlabid dynasty. It is now a madrasa, and we saw children studying the Quran inside when we visited.









Strolling through the old medina of Monastir. After the Abbasid dynasty built the Monastir fortress in 796, the city was used to defend against attacks from the Byzantine fleet. After the ancient Tunisian city of Kairouan was destroyed by the Fatimid dynasty in 1057, many people moved to Monastir to settle, which helped the city grow quickly.
At the bazaar on the main street of the old town, you can see Baklouti peppers. These are a special Tunisian red chili used to make the Tunisian appetizer harissa (Harissa) hot sauce.









I visited five cities in Tunisia this time, and I think the best souvenirs to buy are the religious wall hangings made with mosaic tiles. In a souvenir shop in the Monastir medina, we bought a mosaic Hamsa hand and a Tree of Life. They had them in all sizes from big to small, and we bought the smallest ones.
The Hamsa hand (Hamsa) is a very popular amulet in North Africa and the Middle East. All three Abrahamic religions use it, and each has its own story about where it came from. We believe the five fingers of the Hamsa represent the five pillars of the faith, and it is named after Fatima, the daughter of the noble Prophet. During the Austro-Turkish War in 1788, the Ottoman Empire raised flags printed with the Hamsa. The Grand Vizier led an army of 80,000 soldiers to fight against Austria.
The Tree of Eternity (Sajara al-Huld) is a tree in Paradise. The Quran mentions that the devil tempted Adam and Hawa in Paradise, tricking them into eating the fruit of the Tree of Eternity. This caused their private parts to be exposed, so they covered their bodies with leaves.








The city walls of the old medina in Monastir.




The beach next to the Monastir fortress. The sea and sky are the same color, blue and clear to the bottom. There are few tourists here, making it a perfect vacation spot.






The mausoleum of Bourguiba, the founding father of Tunisia, in Monastir. Construction of the mausoleum began in 1963, it was expanded in 1978, and Bourguiba was buried here after his death in 2000. Bourguiba was a native of Monastir. When France recognized Tunisia's independence in 1956, he served as the Prime Minister of the Kingdom of Tunisia. The following year, he abolished the monarchy and became the founding president, earning him the title of the founder of the Republic of Tunisia. After thirty years in power, Bourguiba was removed from office in 1987. He spent his later years in his hometown of Monastir, where he eventually passed away.
On the south side of the Bourguiba Mausoleum stands the Bourguiba Hanafi Mosque (Bourguiba Hanafi Masjid), built in 1963. Unfortunately, this mosque is locked and not open for the five daily namaz.

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Summary: Monastir, Tunisia - Old Arab Fortress and Coastal Heritage (Part 1) is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, architecture, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Monastir, Tunisia, Arab Fortress.
Take a yellow minibus from the entrance of the Great Mosque of Sousse, and you will reach Monastir, another ancient city by the Mediterranean Sea, in 30 minutes. After arriving, we first had a French-style breakfast at a restaurant called Resto My Cocoon. Many restaurants in Tunisia offer breakfast sets, so you do not need to order dishes individually. The set we chose included coffee, juice, chocolate cake, chocolate cookies, jam, fried eggs, various sausages, butter, and bread. As a Mediterranean coastal region, various sausages, dairy products, and jams are essential parts of breakfast.









To defend against Byzantine ship attacks, the Arab Abbasid dynasty built a series of fortresses along the North African Mediterranean coast. The only one that remains today, and the most magnificent, is the Ribat of Monastir, which was ordered to be built in 796 by the Abbasid governor Harthama ibn A'yan. As the oldest and most important Arab fortress in the entire Maghreb region (western North Africa), the Ribat of Monastir attracts many visitors.
When the Ribat of Monastir was first built in 796, it only had one courtyard, and the current museum section is part of the original structure. The fortress was expanded twice, first during the Aghlabid dynasty in the 9th century and again in 966 under the Fatimid dynasty. The prayer hall on the south side dates back to this period. In 1424, the Hafsid dynasty carried out a large-scale expansion of the fortress, creating a layout with two courtyards. During the 18th and 19th centuries, the Ottoman dynasty added many buttresses and towers around the fortress to mount cannons, which gave the structure its current appearance.


















The Monastir Fortress houses a museum inside the oldest section, which was built by the Abbasid dynasty in the 8th century. The exhibition hall was once the fortress prayer hall, and the mihrab still features its original marble carvings.



A collection of stone tablets with Arabic inscriptions is displayed at the museum entrance, featuring very ornate calligraphy.







Sundial

9th to 10th-century Arabic pottery


15th-century mosaic tiles.


18th-century Ottoman-era porcelain.

Stone steles from 859 and 1028.


Textiles from the Fatimid to Mamluk dynasties in Egypt.









The museum's most important collection features 9th to 11th-century wooden components from the main hall of the Great Mosque of Kairouan. Seeing this thousand-year-old North African woodwork is truly stunning.








Inscribed steles held at the Ribat of Monastir Museum.











Next to the Ribat of Monastir stands the Great Mosque of Monastir, which also has a thousand-year history. The Great Mosque of Monastir was first built in the 9th century during the rule of the Aghlabid dynasty. The Aghlabid dynasty was an Arab dynasty of the Hanafi school that was nominally a vassal of the Abbasid Caliphate. They valued trans-Saharan and Mediterranean trade and conquered Sardinia, Sicily, and the southern Italian peninsula. Architecture from the Aghlabid period has a typical fortress style, and the Great Mosque was built to look like a military castle.
During the 11th-century Zirid dynasty, the Great Mosque of Monastir was expanded, and the mihrab, which now features a typical Zirid style, was built. Unfortunately, except for a very small number of mosques open to tourists in the morning, most mosques in Tunisia are locked outside of the five daily namaz times, so we could not go inside to visit.
During the Hafsid dynasty, the Great Mosque continued to be expanded, and the current watchtower was built. The Great Mosque was finally completed in the 18th century with the addition of the current porch. The most unique feature of the Great Mosque of Monastir is that there is no dome above the mihrab, which is very rare among ancient mosques in Tunisia.









On the south side of the Monastir fortress, there is another fortress called Sidi Dhouib. Like the Great Mosque, this fortress was built in the 9th century during the Aghlabid dynasty. It is now a madrasa, and we saw children studying the Quran inside when we visited.









Strolling through the old medina of Monastir. After the Abbasid dynasty built the Monastir fortress in 796, the city was used to defend against attacks from the Byzantine fleet. After the ancient Tunisian city of Kairouan was destroyed by the Fatimid dynasty in 1057, many people moved to Monastir to settle, which helped the city grow quickly.
At the bazaar on the main street of the old town, you can see Baklouti peppers. These are a special Tunisian red chili used to make the Tunisian appetizer harissa (Harissa) hot sauce.









I visited five cities in Tunisia this time, and I think the best souvenirs to buy are the religious wall hangings made with mosaic tiles. In a souvenir shop in the Monastir medina, we bought a mosaic Hamsa hand and a Tree of Life. They had them in all sizes from big to small, and we bought the smallest ones.
The Hamsa hand (Hamsa) is a very popular amulet in North Africa and the Middle East. All three Abrahamic religions use it, and each has its own story about where it came from. We believe the five fingers of the Hamsa represent the five pillars of the faith, and it is named after Fatima, the daughter of the noble Prophet. During the Austro-Turkish War in 1788, the Ottoman Empire raised flags printed with the Hamsa. The Grand Vizier led an army of 80,000 soldiers to fight against Austria.
The Tree of Eternity (Sajara al-Huld) is a tree in Paradise. The Quran mentions that the devil tempted Adam and Hawa in Paradise, tricking them into eating the fruit of the Tree of Eternity. This caused their private parts to be exposed, so they covered their bodies with leaves.








The city walls of the old medina in Monastir.




The beach next to the Monastir fortress. The sea and sky are the same color, blue and clear to the bottom. There are few tourists here, making it a perfect vacation spot.






The mausoleum of Bourguiba, the founding father of Tunisia, in Monastir. Construction of the mausoleum began in 1963, it was expanded in 1978, and Bourguiba was buried here after his death in 2000. Bourguiba was a native of Monastir. When France recognized Tunisia's independence in 1956, he served as the Prime Minister of the Kingdom of Tunisia. The following year, he abolished the monarchy and became the founding president, earning him the title of the founder of the Republic of Tunisia. After thirty years in power, Bourguiba was removed from office in 1987. He spent his later years in his hometown of Monastir, where he eventually passed away.
On the south side of the Bourguiba Mausoleum stands the Bourguiba Hanafi Mosque (Bourguiba Hanafi Masjid), built in 1963. Unfortunately, this mosque is locked and not open for the five daily namaz.

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Islamic History Guide: Monastir, Tunisia - Old Arab Fortress and Coastal Heritage (Part 2)
Reposted from the web
Summary: Monastir, Tunisia - Old Arab Fortress and Coastal Heritage (Part 2) is presented as a photo-based continuation of the original Chinese travel post, with the images kept in their original order. The entry is organized for readers looking for Monastir, Tunisia, Arab Fortress without adding facts beyond the source.



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Summary: Monastir, Tunisia - Old Arab Fortress and Coastal Heritage (Part 2) is presented as a photo-based continuation of the original Chinese travel post, with the images kept in their original order. The entry is organized for readers looking for Monastir, Tunisia, Arab Fortress without adding facts beyond the source.



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Halal Food Guide: Beijing International Neighbors Festival - Iranian, Azerbaijani and Maldivian Food
Reposted from the web
Summary: Beijing International Neighbors Festival - Iranian, Azerbaijani and Maldivian Food is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, architecture, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Beijing Food, Cultural Festival, Halal Food.
Yesterday, I attended the International Neighborhood Festival at the Jianwai Diplomatic Apartment. This festival has been held for six years. You can eat snacks from different countries and experience a rich variety of cultures.
At the Iran booth, we ate chocolate cake and butter raisin cookies, and drank saffron tea. Sholezard is a special Iranian saffron pudding. It is a rice pudding made with saffron, sugar, rose water, cinnamon, and cardamom. It is the most common dessert Iranians eat to break their fast during Ramadan every year.








At the Azerbaijan booth, we tasted stuffed grape leaves (dolma) and the signature grilled meat skewers (lula kebab). There were also children wearing traditional Azerbaijani clothing.
In Turkish, dolma means "stuffed." It refers to putting meat filling inside various vegetables. Dolma was a staple dish for farmers during the Ottoman Empire. They usually stuffed cabbage in the winter and grape leaves in the summer. Today, dolma is widely found across Southeast Europe, West Asia, and North Africa, where the Ottoman Empire once ruled. Every place has its own unique version.
Lula kebab is made by grinding lamb and onions together into a mince, seasoning it with salt and pepper, and then grilling the meat on iron skewers.









I also saw a Maldives booth, and the Maldives embassy is located right inside the apartment building. The booth had all kinds of Maldivian snacks. We bought a spicy Maldivian flatbread (Kulhi Roshi) that contained ginger, garlic, onion, curry leaves (jiulixiang), shredded coconut, red chili powder, black pepper, cumin powder, tuna powder, fish paste (Rihaakuru), and lime juice. It had a very strong flavor.





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Summary: Beijing International Neighbors Festival - Iranian, Azerbaijani and Maldivian Food is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, architecture, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Beijing Food, Cultural Festival, Halal Food.
Yesterday, I attended the International Neighborhood Festival at the Jianwai Diplomatic Apartment. This festival has been held for six years. You can eat snacks from different countries and experience a rich variety of cultures.
At the Iran booth, we ate chocolate cake and butter raisin cookies, and drank saffron tea. Sholezard is a special Iranian saffron pudding. It is a rice pudding made with saffron, sugar, rose water, cinnamon, and cardamom. It is the most common dessert Iranians eat to break their fast during Ramadan every year.








At the Azerbaijan booth, we tasted stuffed grape leaves (dolma) and the signature grilled meat skewers (lula kebab). There were also children wearing traditional Azerbaijani clothing.
In Turkish, dolma means "stuffed." It refers to putting meat filling inside various vegetables. Dolma was a staple dish for farmers during the Ottoman Empire. They usually stuffed cabbage in the winter and grape leaves in the summer. Today, dolma is widely found across Southeast Europe, West Asia, and North Africa, where the Ottoman Empire once ruled. Every place has its own unique version.
Lula kebab is made by grinding lamb and onions together into a mince, seasoning it with salt and pepper, and then grilling the meat on iron skewers.









I also saw a Maldives booth, and the Maldives embassy is located right inside the apartment building. The booth had all kinds of Maldivian snacks. We bought a spicy Maldivian flatbread (Kulhi Roshi) that contained ginger, garlic, onion, curry leaves (jiulixiang), shredded coconut, red chili powder, black pepper, cumin powder, tuna powder, fish paste (Rihaakuru), and lime juice. It had a very strong flavor.





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Halal Travel Guide: Malacca Old City - Food, Hotels and Muslim Heritage
Reposted from the web
Summary: Malacca Old City - Food, Hotels and Muslim Heritage is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, architecture, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Malacca, Halal Food, Malaysia Travel.
I took a red-eye AirAsia flight to Kuala Lumpur in the early hours of September 15. The flight was delayed by an hour, so I arrived at Kuala Lumpur airport after 9 a.m. Even though I used the self-service immigration gate and jogged to the bus station, I still missed the 10 a.m. bus. I ended up taking the 10:45 a.m. bus and spent three hours in traffic before reaching Melaka Sentral station. Luckily, the bus seats reclined enough to lie back, so I just took a nap and arrived.
In Malaysia, you have to exchange online bus tickets for physical ones at the station, unlike train tickets where you can just scan a code. The ticket counters at the Kuala Lumpur airport bus station get very crowded on weekends and holidays, so make sure to go early to exchange your tickets. By comparison, I think traveling by train in Malaysia is much more convenient. You can scan a code to enter the station, and the schedules are reliable and stress-free.
Staying in a Nanyang-style arcade building
We spent our first night at the Aava Malacca Hotel on Kampung Hulu Road. This area is inside the buffer zone of the Melaka UNESCO World Heritage site. It is right next to two historic mosques, Kampung Hulu Mosque and Kampung Kling Mosque, so the location is excellent. Kampung Hulu Street often has traffic jams. If you want to take a taxi, walk 300 meters north to the main road outside the World Heritage buffer zone.
The Aava Hotel is made from three traditional shophouses (qilou) built before World War II. The exterior is very well preserved, and the interior is simple and elegant. The Nyonya elements are used sparingly but look great. I personally think it offers good value for money. The hotel offers free bicycle rentals for two hours, but one bike has stiff handlebars, so be careful when riding it.









The halal breakfast at Aava Hotel includes Western-style omelets, baked beans, and coconut milk rice (nasi lemak) wrapped in banana leaves. Both Malay and Chinese guests ate breakfast with us. It is very comfortable to drink coffee leisurely inside the shophouse.






Staying at a Straits mansion
On the second day, we stayed at the famous The Majestic Malacca hotel. Staying here really showed me that you get what you pay for. The environment is amazing, the service is very thoughtful, and it feels just like home.
The lobby of the Majestic Hotel is inside a nearly 100-year-old mansion from the Straits Settlements era, with the original tile floors and teak wood features still preserved today. The Majestic Hotel was built in 1929 under the direction of wealthy Chinese businessman Leong Long Man, but he sadly passed away two years later, and his son inherited the mansion. His son kept spending the family fortune until he sold the property to another Chinese businessman, Lim Heng Fang, in 1955. Lim Heng Fang turned the mansion into a hotel. It hosted many British plantation owners in the 1950s and 1960s, and it even welcomed the first Prime Minister, Tunku Abdul Rahman, when Malaysia declared independence in 1957.
The Majestic Hotel closed in 2000 due to poor management. In 2006, the famous Malaysian YTL Hotels group bought and restored it, and it reopened for business in 2008.
After we finished checking in, a Nyonya lady from the front desk guided us to our room and offered us some welcome tea.










The second floor of the Straits Mansion at the Majestic Hotel serves a halal breakfast. You can choose from Western, Malay, or Indian styles. There is an unlimited supply of croissants, which are served to you by Indian staff so you do not have to get them yourself.
We ordered a serving of Indian flatbread (roti canai) with curry and a bowl of spicy noodle soup (laksa).
Roti canai is a classic Nanyang Indian Muslim breakfast. As early as the 17th century, Indian Muslims brought the practice of eating flatbread with curry to the Aceh Sultanate in northern Sumatra. After the 19th century, it spread to Nanyang countries like Indonesia, Malaysia, and Brunei. Various ethnic groups, including the Malays, Acehnese, and Minangkabau people, all love making this dish.
Curry laksa (laksa lemak) is a type of curry laksa that uses rice noodles in a thick coconut curry soup, topped with chicken and seafood. Curry laksa is best represented by Nyonya laksa, which has plenty of coconut milk and is less sour and spicy compared to the other type, Asam laksa.






Hui Muslim snacks
Chan Mari Chan is a sub-brand of the large Malaysian Hui Muslim Chinese restaurant chain Mohd Chan, focusing on affordable home-style snacks. The founder of Mohd Chan, Dato HJ Mohd Chan, was born in Gombak District, Selangor. In 2007, influenced by his Malay friends, he converted to Islam and started his restaurant that same year. Since then, he has been combining Nanyang Chinese cuisine with Malay flavors, and it has now become the most famous and largest Hui Muslim restaurant chain in Malaysia.
This January, we ate at Mohd Chan restaurant in Seremban, Malaysia. You order from a menu there, and they serve a variety of high-end Nanyang Chinese banquet dishes. Chan Mari Chan focuses on fast food and snacks. You go straight to the counter to pick up your food, and the chicken rice, small side dishes, and steamed dumplings (shaomai) are the most popular items. We grabbed roasted chicken rice, three small side dishes, two types of steamed dumplings (shaomai), and drank grass jelly coffee and cocoa coffee. Their food is quite delicious. I especially loved the fragrance and texture of the chicken rice. Eating there wiped away the fatigue of our journey. We instantly felt embraced by Nanyang culture and left feeling very satisfied.
The restaurant environment is also very nice, and many Malaysian Muslim friends (dosti) come here to eat with their families. They have a prayer room in the shop, which sets a great example for us Hui Muslims.









Malaysian Food City
Right next to the E-Red Hotel on Kampung Hulu Street, there is a large Malay food court called Makan Avenue. It has a huge variety of Malay snacks. Many Malay people come here to eat at night, and the tables along the Malacca River are always full. Be careful about ordering drinks here on weekends or holidays. Because they have to serve hundreds of seats, I actually waited an hour just to get my drink. The other food stalls serve their dishes relatively quickly.
The most famous spot in the food court is Cendol Kampung Hulu. Cendol originated on the island of Java and was a classic drink at Javanese weddings before it spread across Southeast Asia. It is made with shaved ice, green rice flour jelly noodles, coconut milk, and palm sugar. You can also add things like red beans or grass jelly. We ordered the durian cendol, which is perfect for the hot and humid weather in Southeast Asia.
We also ordered beef meatball soup (bakso biasa). The name bakso comes from the Southern Min dialect for 'meat crisp.' It is a classic Malaysian street food made from beef, fish paste, and a little tapioca flour, giving it a very firm texture. The finished meatballs are usually served in beef broth with tofu, glass noodles, and various side dishes.
We also ordered fried tilapia (talapia) and catfish (keli). Although they looked charred on the outside, the meat inside was very tender, had no fishy smell, and tasted delicious.









Malaysian night market
Across from Dataran Pahlawan, we found a huge Malaysian night market that seems to only open on weekends, with an endless variety of snacks. We were too full to eat a meal, so we just bought some guava dipped in sour plum powder and a giant avocado juice. Tropical fruits are cheap all over Malaysia. As long as you don't buy durian in tourist areas, you can basically eat as much fruit as you want.









The vibe of the Malacca night market, featuring hand-pounded chili paste (sambal) and lamb soup (yangtang).






Malay cake shop
In Kampung Hulu, there is a lovely cake shop called Malaiqa By Gula Cakery that is especially popular with young people. The shop is inside a shophouse built in 1941. The decor is fresh and simple, a great example of revitalizing the old city.
We ordered the strawberry milk pudding and longan lemon tea, and both tasted great. These fresh little shops in Malaysia are really wonderful, though we usually stick to traditional food and don't visit places like this very often.









Malay village farmhouse cooking
On the road heading east from Malacca to Muar, the whole way is filled with Malay village (kampung) countryside scenery. At noon, we passed through the seaside village of Serkam Pantai, prayed namaz at a 19th-century mosque, and then had an authentic Malay village-style meal in the village.
We ordered shrimp noodle soup (Mee Bandung Udang), black shrimp paste fruit salad (Rojak Petis), and Malay village-style fried rice (Nasi Goreng Kampung), drank iced Milo (Milo Ais Kepal), and had red bean shaved ice (Air Batu Campur).
Shrimp noodle soup (Mee Bandung Udang) is a Malay dish that started in Muar, Malaysia. Bandung means mixed, and Udang means shrimp. It is made by boiling yellow noodles with eggs, shrimp, leafy greens, and beef bits. The thick soup is simmered with shrimp paste, onions, spices, and chili, giving it a very fresh taste.
Fruit salad (Rojak) is said to have started on the island of Java. It was originally a mix of fruits and vegetables with spicy palm sugar syrup, but it later spread across Indonesia, Malaysia, and Singapore, developing many different styles. Black shrimp paste fruit salad (Rojak Petis) started in Surabaya, East Java. It contains raw mango, cucumber, water spinach, and bean sprouts. The sauce is made from black shrimp paste (Petis), fried shallots, palm sugar, and salt, and it is topped with crushed peanuts. The fruit salad tastes quite sweet, so people who prefer milder flavors might find it hard to get used to.
Malay village-style fried rice (Nasi Goreng Kampung) is a classic Malay village dish. It includes diced beef, water spinach, shrimp, dried anchovies, and scrambled eggs. It is stir-fried with sweet soy sauce and shrimp paste, making the flavor very rich. It is one of my favorite Malay dishes.
Air Batu Campur red bean ice, also called ABC ice, is a classic dessert in Southeast Asia after a meal. It is mostly shaved ice with red beans and condensed milk on top, and the one we bought had a scoop of ice cream on it.









Nyonya cuisine
As the birthplace of Nyonya culture, you must eat Nyonya cuisine once when you come to Malacca. There are many halal Nyonya restaurants on the east side of the old town of Malacca on Independence Street (Jln Merdeka), with Atlantic and Cottage Spices being the most famous. Both places had lines when we went, so we both took numbers. Later, a table opened up at Cottage Spices first, so we ate there.
We ordered stir-fried water spinach with shrimp paste (Kangkung Belacan), Teochew steamed fish, steamed Nyonya fish cake (Otak-otak), and drank lime plum juice (Lime Plum), which was a perfect balance of meat and vegetables. Teochew steamed fish is red snapper served with pickled vegetables, pickled plums, and tomatoes. The sour taste is very appetizing. Otak-otak is a fish cake steamed with coconut milk, chili paste, lemongrass, and galangal. It smells and tastes delicious.









Indian Nasi Kandar
To truly experience the food of Malaysia's three main ethnic groups, you must try Indian Muslim Nasi Kandar after eating Nyonya, Chinese-Muslim, and Malay kampung dishes.
We went to Seri Sahabat next to the Majestic Hotel in Malacca. They are open 24 hours a day, and at night, it gets very crowded with all the food stalls open. It is quieter during the day, when they mainly sell Nasi Kandar. They have meat, fish, and vegetables, making for a very balanced meal.
South Indian Tamil Muslims are called Mamak in Malaysia. This name comes from the Tamil word for uncle (maa-ma), and they are famous for their Mamak stall (Gerai Mamak) and Mamak restaurant (Restoran Mamak) food culture.
Nasi Kandar is the signature dish at Tamil Mamak restaurants. It is rice served with various curries of beef, lamb, chicken, fish, and shrimp, along with side dishes. When Tamil Muslims first arrived in Malaysia in the 19th century, most carried food on shoulder poles to sell along the streets, which is why it became known as shoulder-pole rice (nasi kandar). By the 20th century, Tamil Muslims started opening restaurants and stalls, but the name shoulder-pole rice (nasi kandar) is still used today.









Hainan coffee
On the drive from Malacca back to Kuala Lumpur Airport, the most popular restaurant in Terminal 2 is the Hainan coffee chain Oriental Kopi, where people are almost always waiting in line.
They have a huge variety of dishes and are currently one of the most famous halal Hainan-style cafes. Hainanese people began immigrating to Malaysia in the 19th century. Many early immigrants worked as cooks and waiters in British hotels and restaurants, while some worked as servants for British officers. Influenced by their British employers, the Hainanese learned to cook Western food and blended it with Hainanese culinary elements to create the unique Hainanese coffee shop (Hailam Kopitiam) culture.
We ordered flaky egg tarts, pineapple buns with butter (bo luo bao), Hainanese chicken rice, classic rice vermicelli (mee siam), curry fish balls, coffee, soy milk with grass jelly, and longan sea coconut dessert. Coffee, flaky egg tarts (danta), and pineapple buns with cold butter (binghuo boluobao) are known as the "Huayang Three Treasures" and make a classic Nanyang-style breakfast. Their flaky egg tarts are truly well-made, with a very tender egg custard and a rich aroma. Their sweet dessert soups (tangshui) are also delicious. We rarely drink these in the north, so it felt like a special Nanyang experience.
However, their Hainanese chicken rice was not great. The rice quality seemed poor, with a gritty texture that did not taste as good as the rice at other places.








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Summary: Malacca Old City - Food, Hotels and Muslim Heritage is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, architecture, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Malacca, Halal Food, Malaysia Travel.
I took a red-eye AirAsia flight to Kuala Lumpur in the early hours of September 15. The flight was delayed by an hour, so I arrived at Kuala Lumpur airport after 9 a.m. Even though I used the self-service immigration gate and jogged to the bus station, I still missed the 10 a.m. bus. I ended up taking the 10:45 a.m. bus and spent three hours in traffic before reaching Melaka Sentral station. Luckily, the bus seats reclined enough to lie back, so I just took a nap and arrived.
In Malaysia, you have to exchange online bus tickets for physical ones at the station, unlike train tickets where you can just scan a code. The ticket counters at the Kuala Lumpur airport bus station get very crowded on weekends and holidays, so make sure to go early to exchange your tickets. By comparison, I think traveling by train in Malaysia is much more convenient. You can scan a code to enter the station, and the schedules are reliable and stress-free.
Staying in a Nanyang-style arcade building
We spent our first night at the Aava Malacca Hotel on Kampung Hulu Road. This area is inside the buffer zone of the Melaka UNESCO World Heritage site. It is right next to two historic mosques, Kampung Hulu Mosque and Kampung Kling Mosque, so the location is excellent. Kampung Hulu Street often has traffic jams. If you want to take a taxi, walk 300 meters north to the main road outside the World Heritage buffer zone.
The Aava Hotel is made from three traditional shophouses (qilou) built before World War II. The exterior is very well preserved, and the interior is simple and elegant. The Nyonya elements are used sparingly but look great. I personally think it offers good value for money. The hotel offers free bicycle rentals for two hours, but one bike has stiff handlebars, so be careful when riding it.









The halal breakfast at Aava Hotel includes Western-style omelets, baked beans, and coconut milk rice (nasi lemak) wrapped in banana leaves. Both Malay and Chinese guests ate breakfast with us. It is very comfortable to drink coffee leisurely inside the shophouse.






Staying at a Straits mansion
On the second day, we stayed at the famous The Majestic Malacca hotel. Staying here really showed me that you get what you pay for. The environment is amazing, the service is very thoughtful, and it feels just like home.
The lobby of the Majestic Hotel is inside a nearly 100-year-old mansion from the Straits Settlements era, with the original tile floors and teak wood features still preserved today. The Majestic Hotel was built in 1929 under the direction of wealthy Chinese businessman Leong Long Man, but he sadly passed away two years later, and his son inherited the mansion. His son kept spending the family fortune until he sold the property to another Chinese businessman, Lim Heng Fang, in 1955. Lim Heng Fang turned the mansion into a hotel. It hosted many British plantation owners in the 1950s and 1960s, and it even welcomed the first Prime Minister, Tunku Abdul Rahman, when Malaysia declared independence in 1957.
The Majestic Hotel closed in 2000 due to poor management. In 2006, the famous Malaysian YTL Hotels group bought and restored it, and it reopened for business in 2008.
After we finished checking in, a Nyonya lady from the front desk guided us to our room and offered us some welcome tea.










The second floor of the Straits Mansion at the Majestic Hotel serves a halal breakfast. You can choose from Western, Malay, or Indian styles. There is an unlimited supply of croissants, which are served to you by Indian staff so you do not have to get them yourself.
We ordered a serving of Indian flatbread (roti canai) with curry and a bowl of spicy noodle soup (laksa).
Roti canai is a classic Nanyang Indian Muslim breakfast. As early as the 17th century, Indian Muslims brought the practice of eating flatbread with curry to the Aceh Sultanate in northern Sumatra. After the 19th century, it spread to Nanyang countries like Indonesia, Malaysia, and Brunei. Various ethnic groups, including the Malays, Acehnese, and Minangkabau people, all love making this dish.
Curry laksa (laksa lemak) is a type of curry laksa that uses rice noodles in a thick coconut curry soup, topped with chicken and seafood. Curry laksa is best represented by Nyonya laksa, which has plenty of coconut milk and is less sour and spicy compared to the other type, Asam laksa.






Hui Muslim snacks
Chan Mari Chan is a sub-brand of the large Malaysian Hui Muslim Chinese restaurant chain Mohd Chan, focusing on affordable home-style snacks. The founder of Mohd Chan, Dato HJ Mohd Chan, was born in Gombak District, Selangor. In 2007, influenced by his Malay friends, he converted to Islam and started his restaurant that same year. Since then, he has been combining Nanyang Chinese cuisine with Malay flavors, and it has now become the most famous and largest Hui Muslim restaurant chain in Malaysia.
This January, we ate at Mohd Chan restaurant in Seremban, Malaysia. You order from a menu there, and they serve a variety of high-end Nanyang Chinese banquet dishes. Chan Mari Chan focuses on fast food and snacks. You go straight to the counter to pick up your food, and the chicken rice, small side dishes, and steamed dumplings (shaomai) are the most popular items. We grabbed roasted chicken rice, three small side dishes, two types of steamed dumplings (shaomai), and drank grass jelly coffee and cocoa coffee. Their food is quite delicious. I especially loved the fragrance and texture of the chicken rice. Eating there wiped away the fatigue of our journey. We instantly felt embraced by Nanyang culture and left feeling very satisfied.
The restaurant environment is also very nice, and many Malaysian Muslim friends (dosti) come here to eat with their families. They have a prayer room in the shop, which sets a great example for us Hui Muslims.









Malaysian Food City
Right next to the E-Red Hotel on Kampung Hulu Street, there is a large Malay food court called Makan Avenue. It has a huge variety of Malay snacks. Many Malay people come here to eat at night, and the tables along the Malacca River are always full. Be careful about ordering drinks here on weekends or holidays. Because they have to serve hundreds of seats, I actually waited an hour just to get my drink. The other food stalls serve their dishes relatively quickly.
The most famous spot in the food court is Cendol Kampung Hulu. Cendol originated on the island of Java and was a classic drink at Javanese weddings before it spread across Southeast Asia. It is made with shaved ice, green rice flour jelly noodles, coconut milk, and palm sugar. You can also add things like red beans or grass jelly. We ordered the durian cendol, which is perfect for the hot and humid weather in Southeast Asia.
We also ordered beef meatball soup (bakso biasa). The name bakso comes from the Southern Min dialect for 'meat crisp.' It is a classic Malaysian street food made from beef, fish paste, and a little tapioca flour, giving it a very firm texture. The finished meatballs are usually served in beef broth with tofu, glass noodles, and various side dishes.
We also ordered fried tilapia (talapia) and catfish (keli). Although they looked charred on the outside, the meat inside was very tender, had no fishy smell, and tasted delicious.









Malaysian night market
Across from Dataran Pahlawan, we found a huge Malaysian night market that seems to only open on weekends, with an endless variety of snacks. We were too full to eat a meal, so we just bought some guava dipped in sour plum powder and a giant avocado juice. Tropical fruits are cheap all over Malaysia. As long as you don't buy durian in tourist areas, you can basically eat as much fruit as you want.









The vibe of the Malacca night market, featuring hand-pounded chili paste (sambal) and lamb soup (yangtang).






Malay cake shop
In Kampung Hulu, there is a lovely cake shop called Malaiqa By Gula Cakery that is especially popular with young people. The shop is inside a shophouse built in 1941. The decor is fresh and simple, a great example of revitalizing the old city.
We ordered the strawberry milk pudding and longan lemon tea, and both tasted great. These fresh little shops in Malaysia are really wonderful, though we usually stick to traditional food and don't visit places like this very often.









Malay village farmhouse cooking
On the road heading east from Malacca to Muar, the whole way is filled with Malay village (kampung) countryside scenery. At noon, we passed through the seaside village of Serkam Pantai, prayed namaz at a 19th-century mosque, and then had an authentic Malay village-style meal in the village.
We ordered shrimp noodle soup (Mee Bandung Udang), black shrimp paste fruit salad (Rojak Petis), and Malay village-style fried rice (Nasi Goreng Kampung), drank iced Milo (Milo Ais Kepal), and had red bean shaved ice (Air Batu Campur).
Shrimp noodle soup (Mee Bandung Udang) is a Malay dish that started in Muar, Malaysia. Bandung means mixed, and Udang means shrimp. It is made by boiling yellow noodles with eggs, shrimp, leafy greens, and beef bits. The thick soup is simmered with shrimp paste, onions, spices, and chili, giving it a very fresh taste.
Fruit salad (Rojak) is said to have started on the island of Java. It was originally a mix of fruits and vegetables with spicy palm sugar syrup, but it later spread across Indonesia, Malaysia, and Singapore, developing many different styles. Black shrimp paste fruit salad (Rojak Petis) started in Surabaya, East Java. It contains raw mango, cucumber, water spinach, and bean sprouts. The sauce is made from black shrimp paste (Petis), fried shallots, palm sugar, and salt, and it is topped with crushed peanuts. The fruit salad tastes quite sweet, so people who prefer milder flavors might find it hard to get used to.
Malay village-style fried rice (Nasi Goreng Kampung) is a classic Malay village dish. It includes diced beef, water spinach, shrimp, dried anchovies, and scrambled eggs. It is stir-fried with sweet soy sauce and shrimp paste, making the flavor very rich. It is one of my favorite Malay dishes.
Air Batu Campur red bean ice, also called ABC ice, is a classic dessert in Southeast Asia after a meal. It is mostly shaved ice with red beans and condensed milk on top, and the one we bought had a scoop of ice cream on it.









Nyonya cuisine
As the birthplace of Nyonya culture, you must eat Nyonya cuisine once when you come to Malacca. There are many halal Nyonya restaurants on the east side of the old town of Malacca on Independence Street (Jln Merdeka), with Atlantic and Cottage Spices being the most famous. Both places had lines when we went, so we both took numbers. Later, a table opened up at Cottage Spices first, so we ate there.
We ordered stir-fried water spinach with shrimp paste (Kangkung Belacan), Teochew steamed fish, steamed Nyonya fish cake (Otak-otak), and drank lime plum juice (Lime Plum), which was a perfect balance of meat and vegetables. Teochew steamed fish is red snapper served with pickled vegetables, pickled plums, and tomatoes. The sour taste is very appetizing. Otak-otak is a fish cake steamed with coconut milk, chili paste, lemongrass, and galangal. It smells and tastes delicious.









Indian Nasi Kandar
To truly experience the food of Malaysia's three main ethnic groups, you must try Indian Muslim Nasi Kandar after eating Nyonya, Chinese-Muslim, and Malay kampung dishes.
We went to Seri Sahabat next to the Majestic Hotel in Malacca. They are open 24 hours a day, and at night, it gets very crowded with all the food stalls open. It is quieter during the day, when they mainly sell Nasi Kandar. They have meat, fish, and vegetables, making for a very balanced meal.
South Indian Tamil Muslims are called Mamak in Malaysia. This name comes from the Tamil word for uncle (maa-ma), and they are famous for their Mamak stall (Gerai Mamak) and Mamak restaurant (Restoran Mamak) food culture.
Nasi Kandar is the signature dish at Tamil Mamak restaurants. It is rice served with various curries of beef, lamb, chicken, fish, and shrimp, along with side dishes. When Tamil Muslims first arrived in Malaysia in the 19th century, most carried food on shoulder poles to sell along the streets, which is why it became known as shoulder-pole rice (nasi kandar). By the 20th century, Tamil Muslims started opening restaurants and stalls, but the name shoulder-pole rice (nasi kandar) is still used today.









Hainan coffee
On the drive from Malacca back to Kuala Lumpur Airport, the most popular restaurant in Terminal 2 is the Hainan coffee chain Oriental Kopi, where people are almost always waiting in line.
They have a huge variety of dishes and are currently one of the most famous halal Hainan-style cafes. Hainanese people began immigrating to Malaysia in the 19th century. Many early immigrants worked as cooks and waiters in British hotels and restaurants, while some worked as servants for British officers. Influenced by their British employers, the Hainanese learned to cook Western food and blended it with Hainanese culinary elements to create the unique Hainanese coffee shop (Hailam Kopitiam) culture.
We ordered flaky egg tarts, pineapple buns with butter (bo luo bao), Hainanese chicken rice, classic rice vermicelli (mee siam), curry fish balls, coffee, soy milk with grass jelly, and longan sea coconut dessert. Coffee, flaky egg tarts (danta), and pineapple buns with cold butter (binghuo boluobao) are known as the "Huayang Three Treasures" and make a classic Nanyang-style breakfast. Their flaky egg tarts are truly well-made, with a very tender egg custard and a rich aroma. Their sweet dessert soups (tangshui) are also delicious. We rarely drink these in the north, so it felt like a special Nanyang experience.
However, their Hainanese chicken rice was not great. The rice quality seemed poor, with a gritty texture that did not taste as good as the rice at other places.








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Travel Culture Guide: 15 Traditional Cafes Around the World - Coffeehouses, History and Local Life
Reposted from the web
Summary: 15 Traditional Cafes Around the World - Coffeehouses, History and Local Life is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, architecture, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Traditional Cafes, Coffee Culture, Travel History.
Mola Közde Kahveci cafe in Istanbul, Turkey.
Harire Mardin Kurdish cafe in Mardin, Turkey.
SaSa Bosnian cafe in the Old Town of Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina.
Andar Caffe Bar Bosnian cafe in the Old Town of Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina.
Younes, a legendary cafe in Beirut, Lebanon.
Bab Al Saray Cafe in the Old City of Sidon, Lebanon.
Bay Rock Cafe, a popular sunset spot in Beirut, Lebanon.
Street coffee in the Old City of Tripoli, Lebanon.
Haret Al-Sham Arabic cafe in the old city of Jeddah, Saudi Arabia.
Khan Shaheen cafe in the old city of Cairo, Egypt.
Bedouin cafe in the old city of Sharjah, United Arab Emirates.
Nimrah Iranian cafe in Hyderabad, India.
Hua Mei Hainanese cafe (Hua Mei Cha Can Shi) in Johor Bahru, Malaysia.
Nyonya Dynasty Peranakan cafe in Johor Bahru, Malaysia.
Yue Lai Hainanese coffee shop (Yue Lai Cha Shi) in Kuala Kangsar, Malaysia.
Mola Közde Kahveci cafe in Istanbul, Turkey.
Kadikoy is in the Asian side of Istanbul and has a very long history. Greeks built the first settlement on the Bosphorus here in 667 BC, a few years before Byzantium on the opposite shore. The Ottoman dynasty began ruling here in 1353, exactly 100 years before they conquered Constantinople in 1453. Under Ottoman rule, this place was a transport hub for crossing the Bosphorus, so it slowly grew into a busy town.
Today, it is a hangout spot for young people with several pedestrian shopping streets filled with cafes, restaurants, shops, craft stores, and bookstores. Although it lacks a wild nightlife and crowded tourist spots, life here is much more comfortable and relaxed.
People in Istanbul really love coffee. When we came back to the cafe downstairs from our place at midnight, it was full of people, and when we left at six in the morning, people were still drinking coffee. Charcoal-roasted Turkish coffee is delicious. It comes with a glass of water and a piece of chocolate, which is very refreshing.









Harire Mardin Kurdish cafe in Mardin, Turkey.
Mardin sits in the Upper Mesopotamia region, upstream of the Tigris and Euphrates rivers. The entire old city is built on the southern slope of a mountain ridge. A thousand-year-old castle stands on the cliff at the very top, with the stone city built in tiers below it. Because of this, you can look out over the Mesopotamian plains from any terrace in the old city, and the view is spectacular.
The ancient city of Mardin has a very long history. It was called Merida, meaning castle, during the Roman period. It became part of the Arab Empire in 640 and was later ruled in turn by several tribal dynasties of Mesopotamia. After 1085, Mardin was ruled successively by the Seljuk Empire, the Artuqid dynasty, and the Kara Koyunlu, all established by Oghuz Turkic tribes. It was finally incorporated into the Ottoman Empire in 1517. Five hundred years ago, many Armenians and Jews lived in the old city of Mardin. Today, it is mainly home to Kurds and Arabs, along with a significant number of Assyrian Christians, making the culture very diverse.
Harire Mardin is a cafe in Mardin with a very local feel. Local Mardin coffee is stronger than Turkish coffee. It contains orchid root powder (salep) and carob powder (carob), and the local Kurds and Assyrians both enjoy drinking it this way. Tabbaka is a yellow rice pudding invented by the Assyrians. Harire is a brown pudding made from local Mazruna grapes, and we finished by drinking purple basil sherbet (Reyhan Sherbet).









A Bosniak cafe in the old town of Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina.
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Bosniaks (Bošnjaci) are a Slavic-speaking Muslim ethnic group living in the Bosnia region of the Balkan Peninsula. They migrated to Bosnia from northeastern Europe as early as the 6th century and were under Ottoman rule for over four hundred years from 1463 to 1878, which strongly influenced their cultural customs.
We drank traditional Bosnian coffee (Bosanska Kahva) at the Grand Bazaar in the old town of Sarajevo. Coffee was first introduced to the Balkan Peninsula under Ottoman rule by Arabs in the 16th century. Sarajevo was one of the first European cities to open cafes, over a hundred years before cities in Western Europe started drinking coffee.
Cafes were an important part of Ottoman culture. People could listen to the day's main news, discuss daily gossip, and watch various impromptu performances like shadow puppetry. Cafes give people a place to share ideas outside of work and worship, and they are great spots to meet like-minded friends.
Bosnian coffee is made by grinding roasted coffee beans into a fine powder and brewing them in a long-handled copper pot called a Džezva (known as Cezve in Turkish), just like Turkish coffee. However, while Turkish coffee can be brewed with cold water, Bosnian coffee must be brewed with boiling water. You can add sugar to Turkish coffee while it brews, but you cannot add sugar to Bosnian coffee. Turkish coffee is poured into a cup for the customer, but Bosnian coffee is served by bringing the copper pot and the cup to the customer on a tray so they can pour it themselves.
A classic Bosnian coffee set includes the copper pot, a porcelain cup with a copper base, a copper tray, a copper sugar bowl for sugar cubes, and Turkish delight (rahat lokum). To drink it, bite off a piece of a sugar cube and hold it under your tongue to let it melt before you take a sip of coffee. Bosnian Turkish delight (rahat lokum) comes from the Turkish version (lokum). The yellow pieces are made with vanilla and the red ones are made with rose petals, and you can eat them whenever you like while drinking your coffee.




Andar Caffe Bar Bosnian cafe in the Old Town of Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina.
At Andar Caffe Bar in the old town of Sarajevo, the owner Maida's grandfather, Muharem, opened a handmade shoe shop in the Sarajevo Old Bazaar in 1933, which was later taken over by Maida's father, Osman. After Osman retired in 2010, Maida took over the shop, but handmade shoes were no longer popular as people started buying shoes in stores, so Maida turned the shop into the current cafe while keeping many shoe-themed elements inside.



Younes, a legendary cafe in Beirut, Lebanon.
Hamra is a busy and trendy neighborhood in Beirut near the American University, filled with young people and long known as the cultural center of Beirut. The environment here is relatively nice, making it a good place for shopping in Beirut.
The founder of Younes Cafe, Amin Younes Sr., immigrated to Brazil in 1894 and worked on a Brazilian coffee tycoon's plantation for 20 years. In 1935, Amin returned to Lebanon and opened Younes Cafe in downtown Beirut. During World War II, the collapse of the Lebanese currency wiped out most of Amin's savings, but he still managed to pull through. In 1960, Amin's son Souheil joined the family business and helped his father open the first branch of Younes Coffee in the Hamra district. It was one of the first coffee shops in Lebanon to buy an espresso machine. The main Younes shop in downtown Beirut was destroyed during the Lebanese Civil War in 1975, leaving only the Hamra branch standing.
Abou Anwar worked at Younes Coffee for 60 years starting in 1954. He was the shop's most senior coffee roasting master, and his expert skills drew in a large group of loyal customers. The coffee I ordered is named after him, the Abou Anwar Blend, which mixes his favorite fruits and spices.








Bab Al Saray Cafe in the Old City of Sidon, Lebanon.
The ancient city of Sidon is 40 kilometers south of the Lebanese capital, Beirut, and is the third-largest city in Lebanon. Sidon has a history of over 6,000 years, making it one of the oldest cities in the world. It played a major role in Mediterranean trade. The ancient city of Sidon is a well-preserved Sunni Muslim old town on the eastern Mediterranean coast. When you enter the maze-like streets from the north gate, you see many houses built over the streets to form tunnels. People set up stalls inside these tunnels, selling all kinds of goods and creating a very lively atmosphere.
We had mint lemonade and coffee at Bab Al Saray Cafe inside the old city. This is one of the oldest cafes in Sidon, and people say their brunch is very authentic.






Bay Rock Cafe, a popular sunset spot in Beirut, Lebanon.
In Beirut, you have to visit the famous Pigeon Rocks to watch the sunset. I want to mention that we met several very kind people in Beirut. First, a Palestinian refugee grandmother offered us grapes. On the way to Pigeon Rocks, we met a fellow Muslim (dosti) who kindly showed us the way. The dosti took us on a bus first to help us find the stop where we could catch the bus to Pigeon Rocks. Lebanese buses do not have signs, so you can just wave them down anywhere along the road. The dosti seemed more anxious than we were while waiting for the bus. He finally put us on the bus and waved goodbye without asking for a single cent. This friend (dosti) is completely different from the tricycle driver who kept trying to overcharge us on the way to the ancient city of Anjar.
There is a row of cafes next to Pigeon Rocks, from Bay Rock Cafe in the far south to Starbucks in the far north, all of which are classic spots to watch the sunset. Although many people post about this place online, it is actually not very crowded in the cafes, and it is still very relaxing. We ordered two juices and a plate of salad at Bay Rock Cafe and spent a romantic and wonderful evening.







Street coffee in the Old City of Tripoli, Lebanon.
Tripoli is located in northern Lebanon and has been an important port on the eastern Mediterranean coast for thousands of years. The market in the old city of Tripoli is very lively, which is a sharp contrast to Beirut. Ibn Battuta wrote in his travelogue: 'Afterwards, we arrived at the city of Tripoli.' That was an important town in Sham, with several small rivers flowing through it. It is surrounded by fragrant orchards and lush green trees. The sea surrounds it with blue water, and the land nourishes it with its treasures. The markets are filled with an amazing variety of goods.
We drank street coffee in the market and saw all kinds of dairy products, which was very interesting.



Haret Al-Sham Arabic cafe in the old city of Jeddah, Saudi Arabia.
Jeddah is located in the Hejaz region on the east coast of the Red Sea. In 647 AD, Caliph Uthman ordered it to be built as a port for travel to Mecca, and since then, Jeddah has become an important gateway for the Hajj by sea.
The Old Town of Jeddah is the last city along the Red Sea to preserve its traditional urban layout, consisting of tall tower houses, coral stone houses, traditional mosques, open-air markets (souqs), cafes, and small public squares. Traditional buildings like these were once common along the Red Sea coast, but after the 20th century, modernization left only a few standing. They serve as important witnesses to the Indian Ocean trade routes from the 16th to the early 20th century. Because of this, the Old Town of Jeddah was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2014.
We visited a traditional coffee shop in the old city of Jeddah. The shop is small but decorated beautifully with many traditional Hejazi elements, making it a great spot for photos. We ordered traditional coffee and dates dipped in tahini (sesame paste) to experience the lifestyle of old Jeddah.









Khan Shaheen cafe in the old city of Cairo, Egypt.
As a cultural capital with over a thousand years of history and hundreds of historical sites, Old Cairo was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list back in 1979. The current Old Cairo was built in 969 by the Fatimid dynasty. Over the next thousand years, it saw the Ayyubid, Mamluk, Ottoman, and Muhammad Ali dynasties, leaving behind hundreds of historical buildings.
As dawn breaks, the old city wakes up to the sound of the adhan. Roosters crow, dogs bark, and people get up for namaz. Breakfast shops set out their tables and chairs to open. This is how a day in the old city of Cairo begins.
After the dawn prayer, people often rest for a while. Most ticketed attractions in the old city open after nine o'clock. The old city is very quiet at this time, making it perfect for wandering through empty streets and feeling the weight of a thousand years of history. After breakfast, some shops turn into tea houses or cafes where people chat and let time slowly drift by.
We went to Khan Shaheen Cafe on the main Al-Mu'izz street in old Cairo, which is housed inside a historic caravanserai. We had coffee inside; the service charge was a bit high, but the atmosphere was really nice.





Bedouin cafe in the old city of Sharjah, United Arab Emirates.
The Al Qasimi family of the Huwayla tribe began ruling Sharjah in the early 18th century and officially declared independence in 1727. They built trade routes across the Strait of Hormuz connecting the Arabian Peninsula with Persia, which played an important role in exchanges between the two regions.
Throughout the 19th and early 20th centuries, Sharjah was a major pearl trading port in the Gulf. In 1830, the British counted three to four hundred pearl boats in Sharjah, and many of the city's 19th-century historical buildings are linked to the pearl trade.
Al Arsa Souq is the oldest surviving bazaar in Sharjah. It started as an open-air market where Bedouins brought camels to trade, and was later built into its current structure using coral stone and palm trees. I visited during the lunch break, and it was very quiet.
There is a traditional Arabic coffee shop inside the bazaar. I drank strong, herbal-tasting Arabic coffee paired with light dates and ate some chicken rice. Surrounded by people in traditional clothing, the atmosphere felt wonderful.







Nimrah Iranian cafe in Hyderabad, India.
Hyderabad means City of Lions and is a bustling ancient capital on the Deccan Plateau in South India. From 1364 to 1948, this area was ruled by Muslims for nearly six hundred years and served as the capital for both the Qutb Shahi and Asaf Jahi dynasties.
Hyderabad is now the most important center of Muslim culture in South India. Thirty percent of the city's population is Muslim, and most live in the Old City. They have a unique culture that is different from other parts of India, and they take pride in their language, literature, poetry, architecture, and food.
In the morning, I had a classic Hyderabad breakfast at Nimrah, an Iranian café next to the Charminar gate in the center of the Old City. I had Iranian tea (Irani chai) with Osmania biscuits and some other specialty cakes.
Iranian cafés in South Asia were first brought by Zoroastrians who fled religious persecution in Iran and moved to British India in the 20th century. They became popular in places like Hyderabad and Mumbai in India, and Karachi in Pakistan, with Iranian tea (Irani chai) being the most famous item.
Osmania biscuits are buttery cookies unique to Hyderabad. They were created at the request of Mir Osman Ali Khan, the last ruler of the Hyderabad Nizam dynasty who reigned from 1911 to 1948, and they are named after him.
Today, Osmania biscuits have become a cultural symbol of Hyderabad. Many Indians who visit the city buy these biscuits to take home. The most authentic Osmania biscuits are sold in the Old City area of Hyderabad.




Hua Mei Hainanese cafe (Hua Mei Cha Can Shi) in Johor Bahru, Malaysia.
As early as 1844, Temenggong Ibrahim of Johor encouraged Chinese and Javanese people to go to the Malay fishing village of Tanjung Puteri in southern Johor to open ports and clear the land. Chinese immigrants grew sugarcane and pepper here, while Javanese people dug canals, built roads, and planted coconuts. In 1866, this place was officially named Johor Bahru, known in Chinese as Xinshan.
The Hainanese coffee shop (Hailam Kopitiam) Hua Mei has been open since 1946, making it 78 years old and the oldest Hainanese coffee shop in Johor Bahru. Like many old-school Hainanese coffee shops in Malaysia, the owners are Hainanese Chinese, but they hire Malay cooks and staff so that Chinese, Malay, and Indian customers can all enjoy the food.
Hainanese people began immigrating to Malaysia in the 19th century. Many early immigrants worked as cooks and waiters in British hotels and restaurants, while some worked as servants for British officers. Influenced by their British employers, the Hainanese learned to cook Western food and blended it with Hainanese culinary elements to create the unique Hainanese coffee shop (Hailam Kopitiam) culture.
The word Kopitiam combines the Malay word kopi (coffee) and the Hokkien word tiam (shop), specializing in charcoal-grilled toast, white coffee, and soft-boiled eggs. Early Hainanese coffee shops were very popular with the British. Today, they serve as important social hubs where older people gather to discuss news and daily life.
At Hua Mei, we ordered the lamb claypot rice, Hainanese noodles, coffee and tea mix (cham), and a breakfast platter. The coffee and tea mix is just coffee, tea, and milk. The restaurant still has a very traditional feel, set in a classic two-story shophouse with bamboo blinds hanging on the doors and windows, which easily brings to mind the old days.










Nyonya Dynasty Peranakan cafe in Johor Bahru, Malaysia.
On Jalan Dhoby, a street with century-old shophouses in the old town of Johor Bahru, sits Nyonya Dynasty, the first Nyonya cafe in Johor, Malaysia, to receive halal certification. The owners, Lu Xucheng and Li Baoshan, originally ran a travel agency. When their business was hit hard in early 2020, they decided to turn part of the office space into a Nyonya cafe. The two owners specifically learned the craft from an authentic Nyonya chef in Malacca and invited him to the shop every week to supervise until the dishes were consistent. Because customers loved the Nyonya food so much, they moved the shop to Jalan Dhoby in the old town of Johor Bahru in 2022 and officially named it Nyonya Dynasty.
Besides coffee, we ordered their signature Nyonya trio, which includes Nyonya clam rice noodles (lala mifen), fried shrimp wontons (zha yuntun xia), and shrimp paste chicken wings (xiajiang jichi). We also ordered grilled Nyonya fish (Nyonya shaoyu), Nyonya okra (Nyonya yangjiaodou), and shaved ice dessert (chendol). Lala means clams. They buy fresh clams every morning, tap each one to remove the sand, and then simmer them for three hours to make a rich broth, adding bird's eye chili, green onions, and garlic. The grilled fish and okra are both topped with a signature Nyonya tamarind sauce (Asam), which gives them a unique sour and spicy flavor. Their shaved ice dessert (chendol) follows the owner's mother's family recipe. The palm sugar is simmered for two or three hours, and they use freshly squeezed coconut milk, making the texture very rich.








Yue Lai Hainanese coffee shop (Yue Lai Cha Shi) in Kuala Kangsar, Malaysia.
Kuala Kangsar has been the royal city of the Sultan of Perak since the 18th century. The town center still keeps an old street with arcade buildings (qilou), where you can find a traditional Hainanese coffee shop called Yut Loy Coffee Shop. Like many Hainanese coffee shops in old Malaysian towns, the Hainanese owner hires Malay staff here. This allows Chinese, Malay, and Indian customers to all dine in the shop together.
Since Yut Loy Coffee Shop only serves main meals after 1:00 PM, we had coffee with toast, honey, and butter in the shop during the morning. I used to read novels about Southeast Asia where old people would sit in Hainan-style coffee shops like this for the whole morning with just a cup of coffee, a piece of toast, and a newspaper. This time, we got to experience it ourselves.






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Summary: 15 Traditional Cafes Around the World - Coffeehouses, History and Local Life is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, architecture, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Traditional Cafes, Coffee Culture, Travel History.
Mola Közde Kahveci cafe in Istanbul, Turkey.
Harire Mardin Kurdish cafe in Mardin, Turkey.
SaSa Bosnian cafe in the Old Town of Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina.
Andar Caffe Bar Bosnian cafe in the Old Town of Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina.
Younes, a legendary cafe in Beirut, Lebanon.
Bab Al Saray Cafe in the Old City of Sidon, Lebanon.
Bay Rock Cafe, a popular sunset spot in Beirut, Lebanon.
Street coffee in the Old City of Tripoli, Lebanon.
Haret Al-Sham Arabic cafe in the old city of Jeddah, Saudi Arabia.
Khan Shaheen cafe in the old city of Cairo, Egypt.
Bedouin cafe in the old city of Sharjah, United Arab Emirates.
Nimrah Iranian cafe in Hyderabad, India.
Hua Mei Hainanese cafe (Hua Mei Cha Can Shi) in Johor Bahru, Malaysia.
Nyonya Dynasty Peranakan cafe in Johor Bahru, Malaysia.
Yue Lai Hainanese coffee shop (Yue Lai Cha Shi) in Kuala Kangsar, Malaysia.
Mola Közde Kahveci cafe in Istanbul, Turkey.
Kadikoy is in the Asian side of Istanbul and has a very long history. Greeks built the first settlement on the Bosphorus here in 667 BC, a few years before Byzantium on the opposite shore. The Ottoman dynasty began ruling here in 1353, exactly 100 years before they conquered Constantinople in 1453. Under Ottoman rule, this place was a transport hub for crossing the Bosphorus, so it slowly grew into a busy town.
Today, it is a hangout spot for young people with several pedestrian shopping streets filled with cafes, restaurants, shops, craft stores, and bookstores. Although it lacks a wild nightlife and crowded tourist spots, life here is much more comfortable and relaxed.
People in Istanbul really love coffee. When we came back to the cafe downstairs from our place at midnight, it was full of people, and when we left at six in the morning, people were still drinking coffee. Charcoal-roasted Turkish coffee is delicious. It comes with a glass of water and a piece of chocolate, which is very refreshing.









Harire Mardin Kurdish cafe in Mardin, Turkey.
Mardin sits in the Upper Mesopotamia region, upstream of the Tigris and Euphrates rivers. The entire old city is built on the southern slope of a mountain ridge. A thousand-year-old castle stands on the cliff at the very top, with the stone city built in tiers below it. Because of this, you can look out over the Mesopotamian plains from any terrace in the old city, and the view is spectacular.
The ancient city of Mardin has a very long history. It was called Merida, meaning castle, during the Roman period. It became part of the Arab Empire in 640 and was later ruled in turn by several tribal dynasties of Mesopotamia. After 1085, Mardin was ruled successively by the Seljuk Empire, the Artuqid dynasty, and the Kara Koyunlu, all established by Oghuz Turkic tribes. It was finally incorporated into the Ottoman Empire in 1517. Five hundred years ago, many Armenians and Jews lived in the old city of Mardin. Today, it is mainly home to Kurds and Arabs, along with a significant number of Assyrian Christians, making the culture very diverse.
Harire Mardin is a cafe in Mardin with a very local feel. Local Mardin coffee is stronger than Turkish coffee. It contains orchid root powder (salep) and carob powder (carob), and the local Kurds and Assyrians both enjoy drinking it this way. Tabbaka is a yellow rice pudding invented by the Assyrians. Harire is a brown pudding made from local Mazruna grapes, and we finished by drinking purple basil sherbet (Reyhan Sherbet).









A Bosniak cafe in the old town of Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina.
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Bosniaks (Bošnjaci) are a Slavic-speaking Muslim ethnic group living in the Bosnia region of the Balkan Peninsula. They migrated to Bosnia from northeastern Europe as early as the 6th century and were under Ottoman rule for over four hundred years from 1463 to 1878, which strongly influenced their cultural customs.
We drank traditional Bosnian coffee (Bosanska Kahva) at the Grand Bazaar in the old town of Sarajevo. Coffee was first introduced to the Balkan Peninsula under Ottoman rule by Arabs in the 16th century. Sarajevo was one of the first European cities to open cafes, over a hundred years before cities in Western Europe started drinking coffee.
Cafes were an important part of Ottoman culture. People could listen to the day's main news, discuss daily gossip, and watch various impromptu performances like shadow puppetry. Cafes give people a place to share ideas outside of work and worship, and they are great spots to meet like-minded friends.
Bosnian coffee is made by grinding roasted coffee beans into a fine powder and brewing them in a long-handled copper pot called a Džezva (known as Cezve in Turkish), just like Turkish coffee. However, while Turkish coffee can be brewed with cold water, Bosnian coffee must be brewed with boiling water. You can add sugar to Turkish coffee while it brews, but you cannot add sugar to Bosnian coffee. Turkish coffee is poured into a cup for the customer, but Bosnian coffee is served by bringing the copper pot and the cup to the customer on a tray so they can pour it themselves.
A classic Bosnian coffee set includes the copper pot, a porcelain cup with a copper base, a copper tray, a copper sugar bowl for sugar cubes, and Turkish delight (rahat lokum). To drink it, bite off a piece of a sugar cube and hold it under your tongue to let it melt before you take a sip of coffee. Bosnian Turkish delight (rahat lokum) comes from the Turkish version (lokum). The yellow pieces are made with vanilla and the red ones are made with rose petals, and you can eat them whenever you like while drinking your coffee.




Andar Caffe Bar Bosnian cafe in the Old Town of Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina.
At Andar Caffe Bar in the old town of Sarajevo, the owner Maida's grandfather, Muharem, opened a handmade shoe shop in the Sarajevo Old Bazaar in 1933, which was later taken over by Maida's father, Osman. After Osman retired in 2010, Maida took over the shop, but handmade shoes were no longer popular as people started buying shoes in stores, so Maida turned the shop into the current cafe while keeping many shoe-themed elements inside.



Younes, a legendary cafe in Beirut, Lebanon.
Hamra is a busy and trendy neighborhood in Beirut near the American University, filled with young people and long known as the cultural center of Beirut. The environment here is relatively nice, making it a good place for shopping in Beirut.
The founder of Younes Cafe, Amin Younes Sr., immigrated to Brazil in 1894 and worked on a Brazilian coffee tycoon's plantation for 20 years. In 1935, Amin returned to Lebanon and opened Younes Cafe in downtown Beirut. During World War II, the collapse of the Lebanese currency wiped out most of Amin's savings, but he still managed to pull through. In 1960, Amin's son Souheil joined the family business and helped his father open the first branch of Younes Coffee in the Hamra district. It was one of the first coffee shops in Lebanon to buy an espresso machine. The main Younes shop in downtown Beirut was destroyed during the Lebanese Civil War in 1975, leaving only the Hamra branch standing.
Abou Anwar worked at Younes Coffee for 60 years starting in 1954. He was the shop's most senior coffee roasting master, and his expert skills drew in a large group of loyal customers. The coffee I ordered is named after him, the Abou Anwar Blend, which mixes his favorite fruits and spices.








Bab Al Saray Cafe in the Old City of Sidon, Lebanon.
The ancient city of Sidon is 40 kilometers south of the Lebanese capital, Beirut, and is the third-largest city in Lebanon. Sidon has a history of over 6,000 years, making it one of the oldest cities in the world. It played a major role in Mediterranean trade. The ancient city of Sidon is a well-preserved Sunni Muslim old town on the eastern Mediterranean coast. When you enter the maze-like streets from the north gate, you see many houses built over the streets to form tunnels. People set up stalls inside these tunnels, selling all kinds of goods and creating a very lively atmosphere.
We had mint lemonade and coffee at Bab Al Saray Cafe inside the old city. This is one of the oldest cafes in Sidon, and people say their brunch is very authentic.






Bay Rock Cafe, a popular sunset spot in Beirut, Lebanon.
In Beirut, you have to visit the famous Pigeon Rocks to watch the sunset. I want to mention that we met several very kind people in Beirut. First, a Palestinian refugee grandmother offered us grapes. On the way to Pigeon Rocks, we met a fellow Muslim (dosti) who kindly showed us the way. The dosti took us on a bus first to help us find the stop where we could catch the bus to Pigeon Rocks. Lebanese buses do not have signs, so you can just wave them down anywhere along the road. The dosti seemed more anxious than we were while waiting for the bus. He finally put us on the bus and waved goodbye without asking for a single cent. This friend (dosti) is completely different from the tricycle driver who kept trying to overcharge us on the way to the ancient city of Anjar.
There is a row of cafes next to Pigeon Rocks, from Bay Rock Cafe in the far south to Starbucks in the far north, all of which are classic spots to watch the sunset. Although many people post about this place online, it is actually not very crowded in the cafes, and it is still very relaxing. We ordered two juices and a plate of salad at Bay Rock Cafe and spent a romantic and wonderful evening.







Street coffee in the Old City of Tripoli, Lebanon.
Tripoli is located in northern Lebanon and has been an important port on the eastern Mediterranean coast for thousands of years. The market in the old city of Tripoli is very lively, which is a sharp contrast to Beirut. Ibn Battuta wrote in his travelogue: 'Afterwards, we arrived at the city of Tripoli.' That was an important town in Sham, with several small rivers flowing through it. It is surrounded by fragrant orchards and lush green trees. The sea surrounds it with blue water, and the land nourishes it with its treasures. The markets are filled with an amazing variety of goods.
We drank street coffee in the market and saw all kinds of dairy products, which was very interesting.



Haret Al-Sham Arabic cafe in the old city of Jeddah, Saudi Arabia.
Jeddah is located in the Hejaz region on the east coast of the Red Sea. In 647 AD, Caliph Uthman ordered it to be built as a port for travel to Mecca, and since then, Jeddah has become an important gateway for the Hajj by sea.
The Old Town of Jeddah is the last city along the Red Sea to preserve its traditional urban layout, consisting of tall tower houses, coral stone houses, traditional mosques, open-air markets (souqs), cafes, and small public squares. Traditional buildings like these were once common along the Red Sea coast, but after the 20th century, modernization left only a few standing. They serve as important witnesses to the Indian Ocean trade routes from the 16th to the early 20th century. Because of this, the Old Town of Jeddah was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2014.
We visited a traditional coffee shop in the old city of Jeddah. The shop is small but decorated beautifully with many traditional Hejazi elements, making it a great spot for photos. We ordered traditional coffee and dates dipped in tahini (sesame paste) to experience the lifestyle of old Jeddah.









Khan Shaheen cafe in the old city of Cairo, Egypt.
As a cultural capital with over a thousand years of history and hundreds of historical sites, Old Cairo was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list back in 1979. The current Old Cairo was built in 969 by the Fatimid dynasty. Over the next thousand years, it saw the Ayyubid, Mamluk, Ottoman, and Muhammad Ali dynasties, leaving behind hundreds of historical buildings.
As dawn breaks, the old city wakes up to the sound of the adhan. Roosters crow, dogs bark, and people get up for namaz. Breakfast shops set out their tables and chairs to open. This is how a day in the old city of Cairo begins.
After the dawn prayer, people often rest for a while. Most ticketed attractions in the old city open after nine o'clock. The old city is very quiet at this time, making it perfect for wandering through empty streets and feeling the weight of a thousand years of history. After breakfast, some shops turn into tea houses or cafes where people chat and let time slowly drift by.
We went to Khan Shaheen Cafe on the main Al-Mu'izz street in old Cairo, which is housed inside a historic caravanserai. We had coffee inside; the service charge was a bit high, but the atmosphere was really nice.





Bedouin cafe in the old city of Sharjah, United Arab Emirates.
The Al Qasimi family of the Huwayla tribe began ruling Sharjah in the early 18th century and officially declared independence in 1727. They built trade routes across the Strait of Hormuz connecting the Arabian Peninsula with Persia, which played an important role in exchanges between the two regions.
Throughout the 19th and early 20th centuries, Sharjah was a major pearl trading port in the Gulf. In 1830, the British counted three to four hundred pearl boats in Sharjah, and many of the city's 19th-century historical buildings are linked to the pearl trade.
Al Arsa Souq is the oldest surviving bazaar in Sharjah. It started as an open-air market where Bedouins brought camels to trade, and was later built into its current structure using coral stone and palm trees. I visited during the lunch break, and it was very quiet.
There is a traditional Arabic coffee shop inside the bazaar. I drank strong, herbal-tasting Arabic coffee paired with light dates and ate some chicken rice. Surrounded by people in traditional clothing, the atmosphere felt wonderful.







Nimrah Iranian cafe in Hyderabad, India.
Hyderabad means City of Lions and is a bustling ancient capital on the Deccan Plateau in South India. From 1364 to 1948, this area was ruled by Muslims for nearly six hundred years and served as the capital for both the Qutb Shahi and Asaf Jahi dynasties.
Hyderabad is now the most important center of Muslim culture in South India. Thirty percent of the city's population is Muslim, and most live in the Old City. They have a unique culture that is different from other parts of India, and they take pride in their language, literature, poetry, architecture, and food.
In the morning, I had a classic Hyderabad breakfast at Nimrah, an Iranian café next to the Charminar gate in the center of the Old City. I had Iranian tea (Irani chai) with Osmania biscuits and some other specialty cakes.
Iranian cafés in South Asia were first brought by Zoroastrians who fled religious persecution in Iran and moved to British India in the 20th century. They became popular in places like Hyderabad and Mumbai in India, and Karachi in Pakistan, with Iranian tea (Irani chai) being the most famous item.
Osmania biscuits are buttery cookies unique to Hyderabad. They were created at the request of Mir Osman Ali Khan, the last ruler of the Hyderabad Nizam dynasty who reigned from 1911 to 1948, and they are named after him.
Today, Osmania biscuits have become a cultural symbol of Hyderabad. Many Indians who visit the city buy these biscuits to take home. The most authentic Osmania biscuits are sold in the Old City area of Hyderabad.




Hua Mei Hainanese cafe (Hua Mei Cha Can Shi) in Johor Bahru, Malaysia.
As early as 1844, Temenggong Ibrahim of Johor encouraged Chinese and Javanese people to go to the Malay fishing village of Tanjung Puteri in southern Johor to open ports and clear the land. Chinese immigrants grew sugarcane and pepper here, while Javanese people dug canals, built roads, and planted coconuts. In 1866, this place was officially named Johor Bahru, known in Chinese as Xinshan.
The Hainanese coffee shop (Hailam Kopitiam) Hua Mei has been open since 1946, making it 78 years old and the oldest Hainanese coffee shop in Johor Bahru. Like many old-school Hainanese coffee shops in Malaysia, the owners are Hainanese Chinese, but they hire Malay cooks and staff so that Chinese, Malay, and Indian customers can all enjoy the food.
Hainanese people began immigrating to Malaysia in the 19th century. Many early immigrants worked as cooks and waiters in British hotels and restaurants, while some worked as servants for British officers. Influenced by their British employers, the Hainanese learned to cook Western food and blended it with Hainanese culinary elements to create the unique Hainanese coffee shop (Hailam Kopitiam) culture.
The word Kopitiam combines the Malay word kopi (coffee) and the Hokkien word tiam (shop), specializing in charcoal-grilled toast, white coffee, and soft-boiled eggs. Early Hainanese coffee shops were very popular with the British. Today, they serve as important social hubs where older people gather to discuss news and daily life.
At Hua Mei, we ordered the lamb claypot rice, Hainanese noodles, coffee and tea mix (cham), and a breakfast platter. The coffee and tea mix is just coffee, tea, and milk. The restaurant still has a very traditional feel, set in a classic two-story shophouse with bamboo blinds hanging on the doors and windows, which easily brings to mind the old days.










Nyonya Dynasty Peranakan cafe in Johor Bahru, Malaysia.
On Jalan Dhoby, a street with century-old shophouses in the old town of Johor Bahru, sits Nyonya Dynasty, the first Nyonya cafe in Johor, Malaysia, to receive halal certification. The owners, Lu Xucheng and Li Baoshan, originally ran a travel agency. When their business was hit hard in early 2020, they decided to turn part of the office space into a Nyonya cafe. The two owners specifically learned the craft from an authentic Nyonya chef in Malacca and invited him to the shop every week to supervise until the dishes were consistent. Because customers loved the Nyonya food so much, they moved the shop to Jalan Dhoby in the old town of Johor Bahru in 2022 and officially named it Nyonya Dynasty.
Besides coffee, we ordered their signature Nyonya trio, which includes Nyonya clam rice noodles (lala mifen), fried shrimp wontons (zha yuntun xia), and shrimp paste chicken wings (xiajiang jichi). We also ordered grilled Nyonya fish (Nyonya shaoyu), Nyonya okra (Nyonya yangjiaodou), and shaved ice dessert (chendol). Lala means clams. They buy fresh clams every morning, tap each one to remove the sand, and then simmer them for three hours to make a rich broth, adding bird's eye chili, green onions, and garlic. The grilled fish and okra are both topped with a signature Nyonya tamarind sauce (Asam), which gives them a unique sour and spicy flavor. Their shaved ice dessert (chendol) follows the owner's mother's family recipe. The palm sugar is simmered for two or three hours, and they use freshly squeezed coconut milk, making the texture very rich.








Yue Lai Hainanese coffee shop (Yue Lai Cha Shi) in Kuala Kangsar, Malaysia.
Kuala Kangsar has been the royal city of the Sultan of Perak since the 18th century. The town center still keeps an old street with arcade buildings (qilou), where you can find a traditional Hainanese coffee shop called Yut Loy Coffee Shop. Like many Hainanese coffee shops in old Malaysian towns, the Hainanese owner hires Malay staff here. This allows Chinese, Malay, and Indian customers to all dine in the shop together.
Since Yut Loy Coffee Shop only serves main meals after 1:00 PM, we had coffee with toast, honey, and butter in the shop during the morning. I used to read novels about Southeast Asia where old people would sit in Hainan-style coffee shops like this for the whole morning with just a cup of coffee, a piece of toast, and a newspaper. This time, we got to experience it ourselves.






Irani cafés Collapse Read »
Halal Food Guide: Beijing - 10 Muslim Restaurants Worth Trying
Reposted from the web
Summary: Beijing - 10 Muslim Restaurants Worth Trying is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, mosques, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Beijing Halal Food, Muslim Restaurants, Halal Travel.
1. Pakistani restaurant: Lahore Courtyard
Lahore Courtyard is a Pakistani restaurant on the small street outside Dongzhimen. I have been to their Qingnian Road location many times, but this was my first visit to the Dongzhimen branch.
The Dongzhimen branch has fewer menu items than the Qingnian Road location. We ordered Punjabi chickpeas (Punjabi Chole), grilled cream chicken chunks (Chicken Malai Boti), flatbread (Paratha), garlic naan (Naan), strawberry yogurt drink (Laasi), and malt beverage (Barbican). Suleiman really liked their sofa and lounged on it comfortably.
In grilled cream chicken chunks (Chicken Malai Boti), 'Malai' is the Urdu word for cream. The chicken is marinated in cream or yogurt before cooking, which makes the meat very tender and fragrant with a milky flavor.
Punjabi chickpeas (Punjabi Chole) is a classic Punjabi banquet dish, where 'Chole' means chickpeas in Punjabi. This dish is served at almost every Punjabi wedding, and Lahore is the capital of Pakistan's Punjab province. To make it, you soak the chickpeas overnight, then cook them with onions, tomatoes, and various spices to create a masala curry, which is eaten with flatbread.
We ordered two types of bread: unleavened flatbread (paratha) and leavened garlic naan (naan). Their naan was better. It was fresh, smelled strongly of wheat, and tasted great with curry.
Zainab and Sulaiman both loved the yogurt drink (lassi) here. It was sugar-free and room temperature, so even the kids could drink it.
I drank a malt beverage (barbican). It originated in the UK, was brought to the Middle East by the Saudi company Aujan in 1982, and has been produced in Dubai since 2005. It is now the most famous malt drink in the Middle East. I first drank a barbican at an imported goods supermarket near my university. I didn't have much money back then, so I could only have one occasionally in the summer. It felt very refreshing. Ten years have passed in a flash. Now that I earn my own money, I can finally drink as much barbican as I want.










2. Beef knife-cut noodles (daoxiaomian):
Business is booming.
The Maimaihong Beef Sliced Noodles shop from Jiaozuo, Henan, serves the best sliced noodles I have ever had in Beijing!
There are many halal hand-pulled noodle (lamian) shops in Beijing, but very few that serve sliced noodles. After work, I went to Maimaihong Beef Sliced Noodles near the Anheqiao North subway station. It is run by a Hui Muslim family named Mai from Jiaozuo, and they make authentic braised beef sliced noodles in the style of the Jin-speaking region. I ordered the deluxe beef sliced noodles and added dried tofu (dougan). It tasted very authentic, just like what I had in Shanxi before. The beef was stewed until very fragrant, and the sliced noodles had a great chew.



3. Mongolian food:
Hulun Aile
I had a Hulunbuir Mongolian meal at Hulun Aile in Shilihe. It is a rare halal Mongolian restaurant in Beijing, and the food is very authentic.
We ordered the dairy afternoon tea set, which included salty milk tea with roasted rice (chaomi), a platter of various dairy products, fresh milk, and milk brick ice cream. Aside from some of the dairy being a bit too sweet, it felt like a perfect setup for drinking tea and chatting.
We also ordered hand-held beef steak (shouba niupai). Cutting it with a small knife and spreading fresh chive flower sauce and chili sauce on the tip of the blade really gave it a grassland vibe. There were also Buryat steamed buns (Buryat baozi). They are similar to the thin-skinned buns from Xinjiang, but the filling is made of meat chunks. I think they taste better than the kind made with ground meat, though the skin is a bit thicker than the Xinjiang version.
We also had various Hulunbuir lamb rolls for hot pot. I found these to be quite ordinary and not as unique as the Mongolian dishes we had earlier. We didn't order the meat sausages or air-dried meat, but we will definitely try them next time. Overall, this place is well worth a visit.











4. West Africa, Ghana: Tribe Garden
The West African Ghanaian restaurant Tribe Garden in Sanlitun SOHO is open from 2 p.m. to 4 a.m. on Saturdays and Sundays.
They seem to be the only West African restaurant in Beijing. We ordered the grilled chicken leg Jollof rice, grilled tilapia fried rice, and fried African plantains, and everything was delicious! The grilled tilapia is especially good, with crispy skin and tender meat. It has no large bones, so Suleiman loves eating it.
The name Jollof rice comes from the Jolof Empire and Jolof Kingdom that ruled West Africa from the 14th to 19th centuries. It likely started in Senegal and spread across West Africa through Dyula traders. The Ghanaian version of Jollof rice is made with long-grain rice, onions, ginger, garlic, chili peppers, tomatoes, tomato paste, and meat. You can use beef, goat, or chicken. To make it, first stir-fry the meat, then add onions, peppers, tomato paste, tomatoes, and various spices before cooking the rice. Once it is ready, it is usually served with plantains, beef, chicken, or fried fish.
Ghanaian fried plantains are called Kelewele. They are made by slicing plantains, seasoning them with spices, and frying them until golden brown. It is a classic street snack.
They also have many West African specialties, like fried plantains with black-eyed peas, melon seed soup (Egusi) with pounded yam (Fufu), and seafood Jollof rice. I previously ate Egusi with Fufu at Sina Restaurant in Yiwu, and to be honest, it was a bit hard to get used to. If you are trying West African food for the first time, I recommend starting with Jollof rice or fried rice.









5. Xi'an food: Xing Laosi Meatball Spicy Soup (rouwan hulatang).
I visited the Xing Laosi Meatball Spicy Soup shop at the Lianhang Food Court near the Lama Temple (Yonghegong) and had the meatball spicy soup with a cured beef sandwich (labanirou jiamo). Beijing
Many halal Henan-style spicy soup shops have opened in Beijing over the last two years, but this seems to be the only halal Shaanxi-style meatball spicy soup shop.
Their meatball spicy soup is not as peppery as the version in Xi'an, so it is easy for Beijing locals to enjoy, but I felt the starch thickener was a bit too heavy. I really liked the cured beef sandwich; it tastes almost the same as the ones I have had in the Muslim Quarter (fangshang) in Xi'an.
The Lianhang Food Court at the Lama Temple is a bit hard to find. Look for the elevator to the left of the Yonghe Shuting bookstore, go down to the basement, and turn left to find the shop. Liangtaoxuan Beef Noodles and a Uyghur pilaf (zhua fan) shop used to be here. Both were delicious, but unfortunately, they have both closed. I hope this place stays open.






6. Xinjiang cuisine: Jinying Meatball Soup
I have been eating at Jinying Meatball Soup for ten years and have always loved it. This was Suleiman's first time trying it.
We specifically asked for the non-spicy meatball soup. Suleiman really liked the meatballs and the meat. Of course, his favorite was the steamed layered bun (youtazi). He held onto it and wouldn't let go; he wanted to eat all six of them. I also think the steamed layered bun is incredibly fragrant—regular steamed rolls (huajuan) just can't compare!
Among all the dishes at Jinying Meatball Soup, my favorite is the beef bone (niubanggu). It is stewed until it is fragrant and tender. I used a small knife to cut it off, and Suleiman enjoyed it very much.





7. Xinjiang cuisine: Hotan Canteen Open-Air Night Market
The Hetian canteen now feels a bit like a small Xinjiang night market! Time to try all the snacks!
The thin-skinned steamed buns (baopi baozi) are wrapped and steamed to order. They are hot, fragrant, and come in both pumpkin and lamb fillings, both of which are very authentic.
I have always loved their yogurt shaved ice (suannai baobing), and I think theirs is the best in Beijing. This time I even saw rye flatbread (heimai nang) there, which is rare even in Urumqi! It has a very rich rye flavor.
Finally, they have added a new Yili specialty: handmade ice cream (awulali shougong bingqilin)! They have many flavors, so we chose almond, original, and honey. After trying them, I still think the original is the best. Now we can finally eat Yili handmade ice cream in Beijing.









8. Syrian Restaurant: BRBR SOLANA branch
We had a Syrian meal at BRBR in SOLANA. I called 40 minutes ahead to book a table because they are very popular on weekends.
We ordered half a chicken, lamb shank with yogurt (laban), salty yogurt drink (ayran), fava beans with tahini (ful medames), mixed buttered vegetables, sand-brewed coffee, and Damascus ice cream. The lamb shank with yogurt was quite tender and goes perfectly with rice. The salty yogurt drink didn't have much sourness and was mostly just salty. It didn't taste as good as what we drank in the Middle East, likely due to the source of the milk. The tahini in the fava beans was thicker than what we had in the Middle East, making it a bit dry to eat on its own. We asked for an Arabic flatbread (khubz), but since it was a busy weekend, the staff weren't very attentive and the bread never arrived. The roasted chicken, sand-brewed coffee, and Damascus ice cream were all as delicious as always.









9. Beijing fusion food: Gulou Chimianguan.
The fermented bean curd noodles (choudoufu mian) at the Gulou East Street branch of Gulou Chimianguan smell really strong, but they taste delicious! I finished the noodles in just a few bites, and even my burps smelled like fermented bean curd. Beijing locals really love this, and I recommend visitors give it a try too.
On Mondays, they have a buy-one-get-one-free deal on mini burgers, so I ordered a roasted lamb burger (shao yangrou bao). I usually eat roasted lamb noodles with Sichuan peppercorn sauce (shao yangrou huajiao cuan'er mian), but this was my first time having a roasted lamb burger. It is a great mix of Chinese and Western flavors, and it really feels like our own Beijing-style fast food, haha.
Their cold noodles (lengmian) are incredibly satisfying. Back when I was stuck at home during the pandemic, I survived by ordering these cold noodles for delivery.
This was my first time eating fried dough (youxiang) with a knife and fork. It is not the traditional leavened dough style from North China, but feels more like a hot-water dough version, and the added cheese makes it very fragrant.















10. Beijing cuisine: Xilaishun.
Whenever I am near Qianmen, Xilaishun is my go-to place to eat. I order the same things every time I visit Xilaishun: half a Ma Lianliang duck, stir-fried chicken cubes in bean sauce (jiangbao jiding), braised beef tendon (hongshao wogujin), bamboo fungus and jasmine soup (zhusun moli tang), fermented bean curd (ma doufu), stir-fried shrimp with green peas, luffa tips, and lotus leaf pancakes (heye bing). I personally think the Ma Lianliang duck tastes better than Beijing roast duck; it is fragrant, crispy, and delicious when wrapped in the pancakes.








Collapse Read »
Summary: Beijing - 10 Muslim Restaurants Worth Trying is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, mosques, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Beijing Halal Food, Muslim Restaurants, Halal Travel.
1. Pakistani restaurant: Lahore Courtyard
Lahore Courtyard is a Pakistani restaurant on the small street outside Dongzhimen. I have been to their Qingnian Road location many times, but this was my first visit to the Dongzhimen branch.
The Dongzhimen branch has fewer menu items than the Qingnian Road location. We ordered Punjabi chickpeas (Punjabi Chole), grilled cream chicken chunks (Chicken Malai Boti), flatbread (Paratha), garlic naan (Naan), strawberry yogurt drink (Laasi), and malt beverage (Barbican). Suleiman really liked their sofa and lounged on it comfortably.
In grilled cream chicken chunks (Chicken Malai Boti), 'Malai' is the Urdu word for cream. The chicken is marinated in cream or yogurt before cooking, which makes the meat very tender and fragrant with a milky flavor.
Punjabi chickpeas (Punjabi Chole) is a classic Punjabi banquet dish, where 'Chole' means chickpeas in Punjabi. This dish is served at almost every Punjabi wedding, and Lahore is the capital of Pakistan's Punjab province. To make it, you soak the chickpeas overnight, then cook them with onions, tomatoes, and various spices to create a masala curry, which is eaten with flatbread.
We ordered two types of bread: unleavened flatbread (paratha) and leavened garlic naan (naan). Their naan was better. It was fresh, smelled strongly of wheat, and tasted great with curry.
Zainab and Sulaiman both loved the yogurt drink (lassi) here. It was sugar-free and room temperature, so even the kids could drink it.
I drank a malt beverage (barbican). It originated in the UK, was brought to the Middle East by the Saudi company Aujan in 1982, and has been produced in Dubai since 2005. It is now the most famous malt drink in the Middle East. I first drank a barbican at an imported goods supermarket near my university. I didn't have much money back then, so I could only have one occasionally in the summer. It felt very refreshing. Ten years have passed in a flash. Now that I earn my own money, I can finally drink as much barbican as I want.










2. Beef knife-cut noodles (daoxiaomian):
Business is booming.
The Maimaihong Beef Sliced Noodles shop from Jiaozuo, Henan, serves the best sliced noodles I have ever had in Beijing!
There are many halal hand-pulled noodle (lamian) shops in Beijing, but very few that serve sliced noodles. After work, I went to Maimaihong Beef Sliced Noodles near the Anheqiao North subway station. It is run by a Hui Muslim family named Mai from Jiaozuo, and they make authentic braised beef sliced noodles in the style of the Jin-speaking region. I ordered the deluxe beef sliced noodles and added dried tofu (dougan). It tasted very authentic, just like what I had in Shanxi before. The beef was stewed until very fragrant, and the sliced noodles had a great chew.



3. Mongolian food:
Hulun Aile
I had a Hulunbuir Mongolian meal at Hulun Aile in Shilihe. It is a rare halal Mongolian restaurant in Beijing, and the food is very authentic.
We ordered the dairy afternoon tea set, which included salty milk tea with roasted rice (chaomi), a platter of various dairy products, fresh milk, and milk brick ice cream. Aside from some of the dairy being a bit too sweet, it felt like a perfect setup for drinking tea and chatting.
We also ordered hand-held beef steak (shouba niupai). Cutting it with a small knife and spreading fresh chive flower sauce and chili sauce on the tip of the blade really gave it a grassland vibe. There were also Buryat steamed buns (Buryat baozi). They are similar to the thin-skinned buns from Xinjiang, but the filling is made of meat chunks. I think they taste better than the kind made with ground meat, though the skin is a bit thicker than the Xinjiang version.
We also had various Hulunbuir lamb rolls for hot pot. I found these to be quite ordinary and not as unique as the Mongolian dishes we had earlier. We didn't order the meat sausages or air-dried meat, but we will definitely try them next time. Overall, this place is well worth a visit.











4. West Africa, Ghana: Tribe Garden
The West African Ghanaian restaurant Tribe Garden in Sanlitun SOHO is open from 2 p.m. to 4 a.m. on Saturdays and Sundays.
They seem to be the only West African restaurant in Beijing. We ordered the grilled chicken leg Jollof rice, grilled tilapia fried rice, and fried African plantains, and everything was delicious! The grilled tilapia is especially good, with crispy skin and tender meat. It has no large bones, so Suleiman loves eating it.
The name Jollof rice comes from the Jolof Empire and Jolof Kingdom that ruled West Africa from the 14th to 19th centuries. It likely started in Senegal and spread across West Africa through Dyula traders. The Ghanaian version of Jollof rice is made with long-grain rice, onions, ginger, garlic, chili peppers, tomatoes, tomato paste, and meat. You can use beef, goat, or chicken. To make it, first stir-fry the meat, then add onions, peppers, tomato paste, tomatoes, and various spices before cooking the rice. Once it is ready, it is usually served with plantains, beef, chicken, or fried fish.
Ghanaian fried plantains are called Kelewele. They are made by slicing plantains, seasoning them with spices, and frying them until golden brown. It is a classic street snack.
They also have many West African specialties, like fried plantains with black-eyed peas, melon seed soup (Egusi) with pounded yam (Fufu), and seafood Jollof rice. I previously ate Egusi with Fufu at Sina Restaurant in Yiwu, and to be honest, it was a bit hard to get used to. If you are trying West African food for the first time, I recommend starting with Jollof rice or fried rice.









5. Xi'an food: Xing Laosi Meatball Spicy Soup (rouwan hulatang).
I visited the Xing Laosi Meatball Spicy Soup shop at the Lianhang Food Court near the Lama Temple (Yonghegong) and had the meatball spicy soup with a cured beef sandwich (labanirou jiamo). Beijing
Many halal Henan-style spicy soup shops have opened in Beijing over the last two years, but this seems to be the only halal Shaanxi-style meatball spicy soup shop.
Their meatball spicy soup is not as peppery as the version in Xi'an, so it is easy for Beijing locals to enjoy, but I felt the starch thickener was a bit too heavy. I really liked the cured beef sandwich; it tastes almost the same as the ones I have had in the Muslim Quarter (fangshang) in Xi'an.
The Lianhang Food Court at the Lama Temple is a bit hard to find. Look for the elevator to the left of the Yonghe Shuting bookstore, go down to the basement, and turn left to find the shop. Liangtaoxuan Beef Noodles and a Uyghur pilaf (zhua fan) shop used to be here. Both were delicious, but unfortunately, they have both closed. I hope this place stays open.






6. Xinjiang cuisine: Jinying Meatball Soup
I have been eating at Jinying Meatball Soup for ten years and have always loved it. This was Suleiman's first time trying it.
We specifically asked for the non-spicy meatball soup. Suleiman really liked the meatballs and the meat. Of course, his favorite was the steamed layered bun (youtazi). He held onto it and wouldn't let go; he wanted to eat all six of them. I also think the steamed layered bun is incredibly fragrant—regular steamed rolls (huajuan) just can't compare!
Among all the dishes at Jinying Meatball Soup, my favorite is the beef bone (niubanggu). It is stewed until it is fragrant and tender. I used a small knife to cut it off, and Suleiman enjoyed it very much.





7. Xinjiang cuisine: Hotan Canteen Open-Air Night Market
The Hetian canteen now feels a bit like a small Xinjiang night market! Time to try all the snacks!
The thin-skinned steamed buns (baopi baozi) are wrapped and steamed to order. They are hot, fragrant, and come in both pumpkin and lamb fillings, both of which are very authentic.
I have always loved their yogurt shaved ice (suannai baobing), and I think theirs is the best in Beijing. This time I even saw rye flatbread (heimai nang) there, which is rare even in Urumqi! It has a very rich rye flavor.
Finally, they have added a new Yili specialty: handmade ice cream (awulali shougong bingqilin)! They have many flavors, so we chose almond, original, and honey. After trying them, I still think the original is the best. Now we can finally eat Yili handmade ice cream in Beijing.









8. Syrian Restaurant: BRBR SOLANA branch
We had a Syrian meal at BRBR in SOLANA. I called 40 minutes ahead to book a table because they are very popular on weekends.
We ordered half a chicken, lamb shank with yogurt (laban), salty yogurt drink (ayran), fava beans with tahini (ful medames), mixed buttered vegetables, sand-brewed coffee, and Damascus ice cream. The lamb shank with yogurt was quite tender and goes perfectly with rice. The salty yogurt drink didn't have much sourness and was mostly just salty. It didn't taste as good as what we drank in the Middle East, likely due to the source of the milk. The tahini in the fava beans was thicker than what we had in the Middle East, making it a bit dry to eat on its own. We asked for an Arabic flatbread (khubz), but since it was a busy weekend, the staff weren't very attentive and the bread never arrived. The roasted chicken, sand-brewed coffee, and Damascus ice cream were all as delicious as always.









9. Beijing fusion food: Gulou Chimianguan.
The fermented bean curd noodles (choudoufu mian) at the Gulou East Street branch of Gulou Chimianguan smell really strong, but they taste delicious! I finished the noodles in just a few bites, and even my burps smelled like fermented bean curd. Beijing locals really love this, and I recommend visitors give it a try too.
On Mondays, they have a buy-one-get-one-free deal on mini burgers, so I ordered a roasted lamb burger (shao yangrou bao). I usually eat roasted lamb noodles with Sichuan peppercorn sauce (shao yangrou huajiao cuan'er mian), but this was my first time having a roasted lamb burger. It is a great mix of Chinese and Western flavors, and it really feels like our own Beijing-style fast food, haha.
Their cold noodles (lengmian) are incredibly satisfying. Back when I was stuck at home during the pandemic, I survived by ordering these cold noodles for delivery.
This was my first time eating fried dough (youxiang) with a knife and fork. It is not the traditional leavened dough style from North China, but feels more like a hot-water dough version, and the added cheese makes it very fragrant.















10. Beijing cuisine: Xilaishun.
Whenever I am near Qianmen, Xilaishun is my go-to place to eat. I order the same things every time I visit Xilaishun: half a Ma Lianliang duck, stir-fried chicken cubes in bean sauce (jiangbao jiding), braised beef tendon (hongshao wogujin), bamboo fungus and jasmine soup (zhusun moli tang), fermented bean curd (ma doufu), stir-fried shrimp with green peas, luffa tips, and lotus leaf pancakes (heye bing). I personally think the Ma Lianliang duck tastes better than Beijing roast duck; it is fragrant, crispy, and delicious when wrapped in the pancakes.








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Halal Travel Guide: Huairou to the Coast - Farm Stays, Seaside Food and Muslim Travel
Reposted from the web
Summary: Huairou to the Coast - Farm Stays, Seaside Food and Muslim Travel is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, mosques, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Huairou, Coastal Travel, Muslim Travel.
I spent the weekend at a guesthouse at the foot of the mountains in Huairou, Beijing, with my friends (dostani). Yahya Dosti bought various grilled skewers (kaochuan) from Makai at Niujie, and we ate them fresh off the grill. The small courtyard is right next to Qinglong Gorge, and the environment is wonderful. The skewers were tender and fragrant, making for a very pleasant meal. Rain was forecast, but it only lasted for a short while before stopping. After the rain shower, Yahya Dosti picked a few dates from the yard for us to eat. The dates were crisp and sweet, instantly reminding me of life in the alleyways (hutong) when I was a child.








We brought some Ashura porridge (ashura zhou) with us.

On Saturday night, we went to the Shihu Cheng Resort near the Huanghuacheng Lakeside Great Wall in Huairou for dinner. This restaurant is run by Hui Muslims from Changying. They specialize in rainbow trout and also serve various home-style dishes. Rainbow trout need very clean water and only survive in flowing streams. You rarely find them in city restaurants, so you have to go into the mountains of Huairou to eat fresh fish.
We ordered grilled rainbow trout, braised rainbow trout (kuadun hongzunyu), jasmine buds (moliya), stewed small free-range chicken, green beans with steamed rolls (doujiao nian juanzi), brine-marinated firm tofu (lushui laodoufu), farm-style scrambled eggs, and cornmeal flatbreads (tiebingzi). Since we had a baby with us, we asked the owner to make the food mild and low-salt. It turned out perfect for our tastes. The grilled rainbow trout is very fresh, and the braised rainbow trout is full of flavor. Both ways of cooking it are worth trying. This was my first time eating jasmine buds, and the cold salad version was very refreshing. Their menu also lists tossed willow buds (ban liuya), but you can only get them when they are in season. The other dishes were also delicious. My favorite was the green beans with steamed rolls. The rolls were so fragrant after soaking up the juices from the stewed beans and meat.
However, their hygiene definitely cannot compare to the city. The high chair was especially greasy, and the spoons were not washed well. If you are a picky traveler, you should think twice before going.
The scenery near Shihucheng Resort is beautiful. The Huaijiu River is very clear, and the air is fresh. Their accommodation is very cheap and within walking distance of the Huanghuacheng Lakeside Great Wall. They provide a halal breakfast. When we went, we saw many older people staying there.









On Sunday morning, we drove directly from Huairou to Tianjin and had Western food at Haishiwan on Binjiang Road. We ordered tuna salad, avocado and shrimp salad, cheesy curry mashed potatoes, seafood paella, beef fried rice, seafood pizza, and chocolate brownies. Overall, their dish names and plating are quite fancy and great for photos, but the actual taste is average, similar to fast food in a shopping mall.
The best thing they have is probably the avocado salad, which is very healthy. The tuna salad tastes like a simple, home-style mixed vegetable dish. Both the seafood fried rice and beef fried rice are made with soy sauce, which feels like it suits the taste of people who enjoy Shandong cuisine (Lu cai). The seafood pizza is plated beautifully, but the crust underneath is very average, tasting just like pizza from a cheap fast-food shop. They also have all kinds of drinks with names I cannot understand, which are just sparkling water mixed with syrup. The foggy coffee looks great in photos, but the coffee itself is very average.









Come to Guanlanjiao Park in Tianjin on a Sunday evening to watch the sunset. Most of the Tianjin coastline faces east, which is good for watching the sunrise, but Guanlanjiao is one of the few areas perfect for watching the sunset. Guanlanjiao Park has large lawns and walking paths. Suleiman had a great time playing there, running around and climbing up and down with excitement, and he fell asleep right after watching the sunset.









After watching the sunset on Sunday evening, we went to Nuobona in the Binhai Taifeng 80 Food Plaza for Western food. It is definitely the best halal Western food I have ever had! The taste is far better than the places in downtown Tianjin.
Muyi Chinese restaurant, Nuobona Western restaurant, and the Western-style bakery on the first floor in Taifengli are all part of the Yisilaamu restaurant group, which opened in 1994. Their halal license number is Binhai 001. We had eaten at Muyi before. It is creative Chinese cuisine with many original dishes they invented, and the taste is fantastic. This time we tried their Western food, and we still could not stop praising it. The environment is also very nice, and they have a dedicated play area for children, which is very thoughtful.
We ordered the charcoal-grilled baby lobster and creamy lobster soup combo, French escargot, British fish and chips, baked potato skins, golden pillow durian pizza, lasagna, tiramisu, non-alcoholic mojito, dirty milk, and rose soda. We also ordered a kids' meal for Suleiman, which included pasta, pumpkin soup, french fries, grilled chicken wings, and fruit salad. The lobster was very tender, and the creamy lobster soup was rich and full of flavor. This was my first time eating baked snails (ju woniu). They had a nice, bouncy texture and were seasoned perfectly with all kinds of spices. This was my first time trying British-style fried fish, though it did not come with chips. Their version is very different from the common cod fish cakes back home. The fish meat is ground very finely, giving it a very moist texture.







Baked potatoes with skin are called jacket potatoes in the UK. They are baked with the skin on, cut in half, and topped with cheese, mayonnaise, and other sauces, then served with baked beans. Baked beans are also a classic part of a British breakfast.

I highly recommend their pizza. It is made fresh right in the most visible spot in the main hall, and the open kitchen makes it look very appetizing. The best part is that they use a traditional brick wood-fired oven, so the pizza naturally smells much better than the ones in typical shopping malls. The durian pizza we ordered had plenty of durian meat. Of course, they have many other flavors too, and I will definitely try the others next time.





Italian lasagna is also very rare in halal Western-style restaurants in Tianjin. Lasagna originated in medieval Italy, with the earliest records dating back to the 13th century. To make it, you layer wide pasta sheets with filling, top it with cheese, and bake it in the oven until the cheese melts and coats the pasta.
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Summary: Huairou to the Coast - Farm Stays, Seaside Food and Muslim Travel is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, mosques, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Huairou, Coastal Travel, Muslim Travel.
I spent the weekend at a guesthouse at the foot of the mountains in Huairou, Beijing, with my friends (dostani). Yahya Dosti bought various grilled skewers (kaochuan) from Makai at Niujie, and we ate them fresh off the grill. The small courtyard is right next to Qinglong Gorge, and the environment is wonderful. The skewers were tender and fragrant, making for a very pleasant meal. Rain was forecast, but it only lasted for a short while before stopping. After the rain shower, Yahya Dosti picked a few dates from the yard for us to eat. The dates were crisp and sweet, instantly reminding me of life in the alleyways (hutong) when I was a child.








We brought some Ashura porridge (ashura zhou) with us.

On Saturday night, we went to the Shihu Cheng Resort near the Huanghuacheng Lakeside Great Wall in Huairou for dinner. This restaurant is run by Hui Muslims from Changying. They specialize in rainbow trout and also serve various home-style dishes. Rainbow trout need very clean water and only survive in flowing streams. You rarely find them in city restaurants, so you have to go into the mountains of Huairou to eat fresh fish.
We ordered grilled rainbow trout, braised rainbow trout (kuadun hongzunyu), jasmine buds (moliya), stewed small free-range chicken, green beans with steamed rolls (doujiao nian juanzi), brine-marinated firm tofu (lushui laodoufu), farm-style scrambled eggs, and cornmeal flatbreads (tiebingzi). Since we had a baby with us, we asked the owner to make the food mild and low-salt. It turned out perfect for our tastes. The grilled rainbow trout is very fresh, and the braised rainbow trout is full of flavor. Both ways of cooking it are worth trying. This was my first time eating jasmine buds, and the cold salad version was very refreshing. Their menu also lists tossed willow buds (ban liuya), but you can only get them when they are in season. The other dishes were also delicious. My favorite was the green beans with steamed rolls. The rolls were so fragrant after soaking up the juices from the stewed beans and meat.
However, their hygiene definitely cannot compare to the city. The high chair was especially greasy, and the spoons were not washed well. If you are a picky traveler, you should think twice before going.
The scenery near Shihucheng Resort is beautiful. The Huaijiu River is very clear, and the air is fresh. Their accommodation is very cheap and within walking distance of the Huanghuacheng Lakeside Great Wall. They provide a halal breakfast. When we went, we saw many older people staying there.









On Sunday morning, we drove directly from Huairou to Tianjin and had Western food at Haishiwan on Binjiang Road. We ordered tuna salad, avocado and shrimp salad, cheesy curry mashed potatoes, seafood paella, beef fried rice, seafood pizza, and chocolate brownies. Overall, their dish names and plating are quite fancy and great for photos, but the actual taste is average, similar to fast food in a shopping mall.
The best thing they have is probably the avocado salad, which is very healthy. The tuna salad tastes like a simple, home-style mixed vegetable dish. Both the seafood fried rice and beef fried rice are made with soy sauce, which feels like it suits the taste of people who enjoy Shandong cuisine (Lu cai). The seafood pizza is plated beautifully, but the crust underneath is very average, tasting just like pizza from a cheap fast-food shop. They also have all kinds of drinks with names I cannot understand, which are just sparkling water mixed with syrup. The foggy coffee looks great in photos, but the coffee itself is very average.









Come to Guanlanjiao Park in Tianjin on a Sunday evening to watch the sunset. Most of the Tianjin coastline faces east, which is good for watching the sunrise, but Guanlanjiao is one of the few areas perfect for watching the sunset. Guanlanjiao Park has large lawns and walking paths. Suleiman had a great time playing there, running around and climbing up and down with excitement, and he fell asleep right after watching the sunset.









After watching the sunset on Sunday evening, we went to Nuobona in the Binhai Taifeng 80 Food Plaza for Western food. It is definitely the best halal Western food I have ever had! The taste is far better than the places in downtown Tianjin.
Muyi Chinese restaurant, Nuobona Western restaurant, and the Western-style bakery on the first floor in Taifengli are all part of the Yisilaamu restaurant group, which opened in 1994. Their halal license number is Binhai 001. We had eaten at Muyi before. It is creative Chinese cuisine with many original dishes they invented, and the taste is fantastic. This time we tried their Western food, and we still could not stop praising it. The environment is also very nice, and they have a dedicated play area for children, which is very thoughtful.
We ordered the charcoal-grilled baby lobster and creamy lobster soup combo, French escargot, British fish and chips, baked potato skins, golden pillow durian pizza, lasagna, tiramisu, non-alcoholic mojito, dirty milk, and rose soda. We also ordered a kids' meal for Suleiman, which included pasta, pumpkin soup, french fries, grilled chicken wings, and fruit salad. The lobster was very tender, and the creamy lobster soup was rich and full of flavor. This was my first time eating baked snails (ju woniu). They had a nice, bouncy texture and were seasoned perfectly with all kinds of spices. This was my first time trying British-style fried fish, though it did not come with chips. Their version is very different from the common cod fish cakes back home. The fish meat is ground very finely, giving it a very moist texture.







Baked potatoes with skin are called jacket potatoes in the UK. They are baked with the skin on, cut in half, and topped with cheese, mayonnaise, and other sauces, then served with baked beans. Baked beans are also a classic part of a British breakfast.

I highly recommend their pizza. It is made fresh right in the most visible spot in the main hall, and the open kitchen makes it look very appetizing. The best part is that they use a traditional brick wood-fired oven, so the pizza naturally smells much better than the ones in typical shopping malls. The durian pizza we ordered had plenty of durian meat. Of course, they have many other flavors too, and I will definitely try the others next time.





Italian lasagna is also very rare in halal Western-style restaurants in Tianjin. Lasagna originated in medieval Italy, with the earliest records dating back to the 13th century. To make it, you layer wide pasta sheets with filling, top it with cheese, and bake it in the oven until the cheese melts and coats the pasta.
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Halal Food Guide: Beijing New Restaurants - Turkish, Tunisian and Local Eats (Part 1)
Reposted from the web
Summary: Beijing New Restaurants - Turkish, Tunisian and Local Eats (Part 1) is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, mosques, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Beijing Halal Food, New Restaurants, Muslim Travel.
1. Sultan Turkish Restaurant, Beijing branch
The super delicious Turkish Mado breakfast has finally arrived in Beijing!
The famous Sultan Turkish Restaurant from Guangzhou and Yiwu recently opened in Beijing at the former location of the Kubei Turkish Restaurant in Zuojiazhuang. The owner of Sultan also brought the famous Turkish Mado ice cream shop to China, so after you enter, the staff will provide two menus: one for Sultan and one for Mado.
Mado comes from the city of Kahramanmarash in southeastern Turkey, and its biggest feature is that everything is made using goat milk from their hometown. Besides ice cream, their various cheeses are also a main specialty. Of course, there is also my favorite Turkish breakfast.
Friends who have been to Turkey probably know that Turkish breakfast is really hearty, nutritious, and healthy. I have eaten Mado breakfast at their Yiwu and Guangzhou locations before, and this time I finally got to have it in Beijing. Mado offers many types of breakfast. We ordered the meal for two, which starts at 10:30 and is available all day. The meal for two includes Turkish-style fried eggs with sausage (sucuk), Maras cheese (maras peyniri), feta cheese (beyaz peynir), yellow cheese platter, honey with clotted cream (kaymak), green olives, black olives, tomato pepper paste (acuka), tahini syrup (tahin pekmez), cherry jam, dried apricots, walnuts, feta cheese spring rolls (sigara boregi), a kiwi, orange, and banana platter, a cucumber and tomato platter, plus bread, flatbread (pide), and Turkish black tea. It is a very rich variety. Their flatbread (pide) is especially fluffy. It tastes great when you tear it open and spread different jams on it.









On my second visit to Sultan, I ordered two of Mado's single-person breakfasts, homemade lemonade, and ice cream. This place is likely the most authentic Turkish breakfast you can find in Beijing. The only disappointing part is that the jam is store-bought in jars. You would never find a place in Turkey that serves breakfast jam like that. Also, the single-person breakfast does not come with bread like the meal for two does; you have to buy the bread separately.
We also ate Sultan's Mardin Tava and Turkish pizza (lahmacun), and we ordered shrimp risotto for the kids. This restaurant is likely the only place in Beijing selling Mardin Tava, a dish made by baking lamb chops, tomatoes, and chili peppers together in a flat pan. Mardin is an ancient city in southeastern Turkey near the border with Iraq, and tava means flat pan. The ancient city of Mardin is home to Kurds, Arabs, and Assyrians, and its local customs are very different from those in central and western Turkey, making it well worth a visit.
I also want to introduce the word "Sultan," which we usually translate as "Sudan" in Chinese. In Arabic, the original meaning of Sultan is "strength, authority, and rule." The first ruler to call himself Sultan was Sultan Mahmud of the Ghaznavid dynasty (reigned 998-1030). Later, the Seljuk and Ottoman dynasties adopted the title, and it gradually became the title for a national ruler. Today, only the heads of state of two countries hold the title of Sultan: the Sultanate of Oman and the Sultanate of Brunei. Additionally, the heads of the Malaysian states of Johor, Kedah, Kelantan, Pahang, Perak, Selangor, and Terengganu, as well as the Special Region of Yogyakarta in Indonesia, are also called Sultans.
Finally, a reminder: the further inside you sit at Sultan Restaurant, the hotter it gets. If you are sensitive to heat, try to sit closer to the front door.









2. Carthage Tunisian Restaurant
A new Carthage Arabic restaurant opened on Dongzhimen Outer Street in Beijing during Ramadan, and we went there for an iftar buffet. This is a new iftar buffet opened by Adel, the head chef of La Medina, on the first floor breakfast area of the Atour X Hotel in Sanlitun Taikoo Li, still focusing on Tunisian flavors. Since it has not been open long, it is mostly frequented by foreign friends (dosti) from the nearby embassy district, so there is no need to wait in line.
Because Adel is in charge, the dishes are similar to La Medina, though there are slightly fewer options. Appetizers include chickpea dip (hummus), parsley salad (tabbouleh), and the Tunisian specialty grilled eggplant salad (mechouia). Besides grilled eggplant, the grilled eggplant salad (mechouia) contains tomatoes, chili peppers, onions, and olive oil, making it very healthy.
The main course features North African sausage (merguez), which is made with lamb and beef mixed with cumin, harissa sauce, chili, and various other spices; it dates back to 12th-century Andalusia and later spread throughout North Africa.
They also serve the classic North African Maghreb tomato and pepper poached egg dish, shakshouka. Shakshouka started in North Africa under Ottoman rule in the 16th century, when tomatoes and peppers were brought from the Americas and became part of the local diet.
They also have the Arab version of fried triangular pastries (sambousek), which is a classic snack for Muslims during Ramadan. Sambousek originated in Iran and entered the Arab diet after the 10th century, later spreading to India, China, Indonesia, and Africa. In some parts of eastern China, Hui Muslims still use the Persian name 'sanmosan'.









3.
Fang Zhongshan Hulatang Hujialou Branch
Fang Zhongshan came to Beijing in 2023 and started a trend for spicy pepper soup (hulatang). The Hujialou branch opened in early 2024, right on my commute.
On the first day Fang Zhongshan Hujialou opened after the Spring Festival, I went there for a mix of spicy pepper soup and tofu pudding (doufunao), plus a beef pie (niurouhe). The Hujialou branch is just a short walk from the Hujialou subway station on Line 6, so it is easy to get to. I arrived at 1:00 and did not have to wait in line; it is not as crowded as it was when it first opened.
I had heard that their spicy soup (hulatang) is very hot. I tried the mixed version, and it was quite spicy. I think some Beijingers who cannot handle spice might find it too much. However, they put plenty of beef and mushrooms inside, which gives it a rich texture. I have to praise their beef pastry (niurouhe). It is wrapped and fried to order, with a thin, crispy crust. It is a great experience. The filling is made of vermicelli and minced beef with a strong hint of Sichuan peppercorn, which should be very popular.









On my second visit, I ordered bean flour porridge (doumo), scallion pancake (congyoubing), and pan-fried buns (shuijianbao). There were more people than the day before, so I expect it will be packed again in a few days.
Their bean flour porridge (doumo) is more traditional than the spicy soup. It tastes just like the one I had on Shuncheng Street in Zhengzhou. It has vermicelli, peanuts, and other ingredients inside, and I think it suits the taste of Beijingers better. The scallion pancake (congyoubing) is very thin, freshly fried, and full of onion aroma with a great texture. Pan-fried buns (shuijianbao) are made in large batches, so you might not always get them fresh out of the pan, but they are still served hot. The filling is beef and vermicelli, with a strong, spicy kick from the seasonings.









The wall at the Fangzhongshan Hujialou branch displays the history of Fangzhongshan spicy soup (hulatang). It feels meaningful to share this cultural heritage.
Fangzhongshan’s grandfather, Fang Yinsheng, opened the Fang Family Soup Shop on Jiepai Street in Zhoukou, Henan, in 1922 and started selling spicy soup (hulatang).
After the Kuomintang caused the Yellow River to breach its banks in the 1938 Huayuankou incident, Henan suffered a severe disaster. Fang Yinsheng turned his soup shop into a relief station to help passing refugees.
After 1958, Fangzhongshan’s father, Fang Chaoyang, was hired as the general manager for three villages, where he oversaw food management for the people's commune.
In 1976, a restaurant for Hui Muslims was established in Xixiatin Town, Xihua County, Zhoukou, Henan, and Fang Chaoyang served as its first manager.
After the reform and opening-up policy, Fang Chaoyang took his son Fangzhongshan to Luohe to build their business, and in 1983, they opened the Fang Family Spicy Soup Shop in Luohe.






4. Zhang Dahui Spicy Soup (hulatang)
Following Fang Zhongshan, the Xiaoyao Town style Zhang Dahui Spicy Soup (hulatang) has also opened a shop in Beijing.
The Sanlitun branch is located in Baijiazhuang. The shop is small. In the morning, they sell spicy soup (hulatang), pan-fried buns (shuijianbao), sugar cakes (tanggao), vegetable pockets (caijiao), fried dough fritters (youmotou), and beef pies (niurouhe) until about 2:00 PM. In the evening, they sell braised noodles (huimian), lamb soup with sesame flatbread (yangtang shaobing), lamb bone marrow (yangbanggu), steamed vegetables (zhengcai), and crawfish (xiaolongxia). We arrived in the evening and ordered lamb braised noodles (yangrou huimian), steamed eggplant (zheng qiezi), lamb bone marrow (yangbanggu), and crawfish (xiaolongxia). I thought the lamb braised noodles (yangrou huimian) were quite tasty. The chef pulls the noodles fresh, and they are packed with ingredients and have a strong flavor. The steamed eggplant (zheng qiezi) is sweet, sour, and salty, seasoned with minced garlic and catnip (jingjie). It goes well with the braised noodles (huimian). The crawfish (xiaolongxia) were served cold, and I felt they were not spicy enough. The beef bone marrow (niubanggu) is braised in sauce, but I felt it was a bit too salty. Next time I have a chance, I will come in the morning to try their spicy soup (hulatang).










The founder of Zhang Dahui was the great-grandfather, Zhang Yongsui. In the early 20th century, Zhang Yongsui carried a pole to sell spicy soup (hulatang) at the Shahe River wharf in Xiaoyao Town, Xihua County, Zhoukou, Henan. Xiaoyao Town sits where the Shahe and Yinghe rivers meet. It has always been an important trade hub, and the area around the Shahe River wharf was especially busy. Starting in 1942, 14-year-old Zhang Quanfang began selling spicy soup (hulatang) with his father, Zhang Yongsui, at the crossroads in Xiaoyao Town. He sold it there for over thirty years. After the reform and opening up in 1979, the third-generation successor, Zhang Peigen, moved his whole family to Xihua County to open a shop. It was the first spicy soup (hulatang) business to move out of Xiaoyao Town. In the 1990s, the Zhang family opened Qingxiangyuan Old Zhang's Spicy Soup (hulatang) at the Round Corner Building in Xihua County Square. Later, the fourth-generation successor changed the name to Zhang Dahui Spicy Soup (hulatang), which is still open today.





5. Yu-style Xiaoyao Town Spicy Soup (hulatang)
There is finally a halal Xiaoyao Town spicy soup (hulatang) inside the Second Ring Road in Beijing!
A new shop called Yuwei Xiaoyao Town Spicy Soup opened on Dongsi North Street. For liquids, they have spicy soup (hulatang), tofu pudding (doufunao), a mix of both (liangchan), bean foam soup (doumo), soy milk (doujiang), eight-treasure porridge (babaozhou), and millet porridge (xiaomizhou). For solids, they have scallion oil pancakes (congyoubing), pan-fried buns (shuijianbao), beef pockets (niurouhe), fried dough strips (youmotou), beef buns (niuroubao), and vegetable buns (subao). I had the mix, a scallion oil pancake, and a pan-fried bun for breakfast. The spicy soup has beef slices, gluten, and wood ear mushrooms in it. It is not the super spicy version like Fang Zhongshan, but the traditional Xiaoyao Town flavor. Maybe because it was raining when they opened, the shop was not crowded. I missed out on the freshly made scallion oil pancakes and pan-fried buns, but the pan-fried buns were still hot and tasted great.









Yuwei Xiaoyao Town Spicy Soup officially opened on July 26, and many friends (dosti) came to visit. I had bean foam soup, fried dough strips, and pan-fried buns for breakfast. This time I caught the freshly fried dough strips, and they tasted very good.






In August, Yuwei Xiaoyao Town Spicy Soup added braised noodles (huimian) to the menu. It is a typical Zhengzhou nourishing braised noodle dish. The broth contains quail eggs, glass noodles (fensi), goji berries, and kelp. The chef pulls the noodles fresh to order. Their cold dishes are a bit pricey, and they are sold individually, unlike the braised noodle (huimian) shops in Henan where you can usually get a mix of dishes.



6. Qinyuanzhai Fresh Braised Duck Shop
I bought duck head, duck neck, duck web, duck gizzard, duck esophagus, tofu skin, kelp, and orchid-shaped tofu skewers at Qinyuanzhai Fresh Braised Duck Shop on Andingmen Inner Street. They have a good variety. The braised items are not very spicy, but they have a lingering heat, making them great for snacking.






7. Subuha Almond Tofu Jiaodaokou Branch
I went for a walk in the evening and visited the newly opened Subuha at Jiaodaokou, where I ordered almond tofu and coconut cheese. Their almond tofu is made like cheese, with both almond and milk flavors. It is quite delicious.
The second time I went, I had the matcha cheese, while Zainab had the lamb skewers and almond tofu. They also have 800 grams of sugar-free yogurt for 14.5 yuan, which feels like a good deal.








8. Shawarma City
I took Suleiman for a walk in Sanlitun in the evening. Down the stairs at Sanlitun SOHO, a new kebab wrap shop called Shawarma City just opened, and it has a real Middle Eastern street vibe. The owner is Palestinian. They specialize in beef wraps and chicken wraps, plus fried chicken, onion rings, and salty yogurt drink (ayran).
We had the beef wrap and ayran. The beef wrap was surprisingly delicious, and the meat was very tender. When we visited Turkey, the flatbread for the kebab wraps we bought on the street was always mass-produced and got hard once it cooled down. But their flatbread is made fresh to order. It is hot and crispy, and it tastes even better than the ones we bought in Turkey!






9. Tomato Casual Western Restaurant (Xihongshi) at Hopson One
After coming back from Badaling Wildlife Park, we went to Xihongshi Pizza and Pasta at Hopson One in Changping. The owner is a Hui Muslim from Xueying in Daxing, and he has opened several branches now.
We ordered the tomato beef pasta and cheese pizza. The portions were very small, and there wasn't much meat in the pasta, but the price was really cheap. I guess they focus on high volume.
The fries tasted good and were very fragrant. I think their best dish is the roast chicken. It is crispy on the outside and tender on the inside, which makes it very appetizing. They have another shop in the New Zhongguancun Shopping Center. Next time I pass by, I will definitely eat their roast chicken and fries again.









10. Ya'er Liji Courtyard
Last weekend, our family of three went to Ya'er Liji Courtyard by the Shayukou Reservoir in Huairou. The courtyard is a little over an hour from the city center by highway. If you take the bus, take the 924 express from outside Dongzhimen to the terminal station, Chawu Railway Station, and then transfer to the H27. However, the H27 runs very infrequently, and we just happened to catch the 11:50 bus on our way back.
Yar Liji Courtyard has two rooms with large beds and two rooms with large heated brick beds (kang). Saturday nights are busy, so you need to book ahead. The courtyard provides breakfast, which consists of corn, fried steamed bun slices (mantou pian), porridge, eggs, and pickled vegetables. For lunch and dinner, they serve stewed pots, hot pot meat (shuanrou), and barbecue, but there are very few stir-fried dishes.
Yar Liji Courtyard is right next to the Reservoir Mountain Bar Resort. The resort has all kinds of fitness equipment, small slides, and swings, which Suleiman loved. Behind the resort, you can climb up to the Shayukou Reservoir dam to see the view. The rocky path is a bit slippery on the way down, and Suleiman took a tumble. I guess that counts as his first memorable fall while hiking.






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Summary: Beijing New Restaurants - Turkish, Tunisian and Local Eats (Part 1) is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, mosques, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Beijing Halal Food, New Restaurants, Muslim Travel.
1. Sultan Turkish Restaurant, Beijing branch
The super delicious Turkish Mado breakfast has finally arrived in Beijing!
The famous Sultan Turkish Restaurant from Guangzhou and Yiwu recently opened in Beijing at the former location of the Kubei Turkish Restaurant in Zuojiazhuang. The owner of Sultan also brought the famous Turkish Mado ice cream shop to China, so after you enter, the staff will provide two menus: one for Sultan and one for Mado.
Mado comes from the city of Kahramanmarash in southeastern Turkey, and its biggest feature is that everything is made using goat milk from their hometown. Besides ice cream, their various cheeses are also a main specialty. Of course, there is also my favorite Turkish breakfast.
Friends who have been to Turkey probably know that Turkish breakfast is really hearty, nutritious, and healthy. I have eaten Mado breakfast at their Yiwu and Guangzhou locations before, and this time I finally got to have it in Beijing. Mado offers many types of breakfast. We ordered the meal for two, which starts at 10:30 and is available all day. The meal for two includes Turkish-style fried eggs with sausage (sucuk), Maras cheese (maras peyniri), feta cheese (beyaz peynir), yellow cheese platter, honey with clotted cream (kaymak), green olives, black olives, tomato pepper paste (acuka), tahini syrup (tahin pekmez), cherry jam, dried apricots, walnuts, feta cheese spring rolls (sigara boregi), a kiwi, orange, and banana platter, a cucumber and tomato platter, plus bread, flatbread (pide), and Turkish black tea. It is a very rich variety. Their flatbread (pide) is especially fluffy. It tastes great when you tear it open and spread different jams on it.









On my second visit to Sultan, I ordered two of Mado's single-person breakfasts, homemade lemonade, and ice cream. This place is likely the most authentic Turkish breakfast you can find in Beijing. The only disappointing part is that the jam is store-bought in jars. You would never find a place in Turkey that serves breakfast jam like that. Also, the single-person breakfast does not come with bread like the meal for two does; you have to buy the bread separately.
We also ate Sultan's Mardin Tava and Turkish pizza (lahmacun), and we ordered shrimp risotto for the kids. This restaurant is likely the only place in Beijing selling Mardin Tava, a dish made by baking lamb chops, tomatoes, and chili peppers together in a flat pan. Mardin is an ancient city in southeastern Turkey near the border with Iraq, and tava means flat pan. The ancient city of Mardin is home to Kurds, Arabs, and Assyrians, and its local customs are very different from those in central and western Turkey, making it well worth a visit.
I also want to introduce the word "Sultan," which we usually translate as "Sudan" in Chinese. In Arabic, the original meaning of Sultan is "strength, authority, and rule." The first ruler to call himself Sultan was Sultan Mahmud of the Ghaznavid dynasty (reigned 998-1030). Later, the Seljuk and Ottoman dynasties adopted the title, and it gradually became the title for a national ruler. Today, only the heads of state of two countries hold the title of Sultan: the Sultanate of Oman and the Sultanate of Brunei. Additionally, the heads of the Malaysian states of Johor, Kedah, Kelantan, Pahang, Perak, Selangor, and Terengganu, as well as the Special Region of Yogyakarta in Indonesia, are also called Sultans.
Finally, a reminder: the further inside you sit at Sultan Restaurant, the hotter it gets. If you are sensitive to heat, try to sit closer to the front door.









2. Carthage Tunisian Restaurant
A new Carthage Arabic restaurant opened on Dongzhimen Outer Street in Beijing during Ramadan, and we went there for an iftar buffet. This is a new iftar buffet opened by Adel, the head chef of La Medina, on the first floor breakfast area of the Atour X Hotel in Sanlitun Taikoo Li, still focusing on Tunisian flavors. Since it has not been open long, it is mostly frequented by foreign friends (dosti) from the nearby embassy district, so there is no need to wait in line.
Because Adel is in charge, the dishes are similar to La Medina, though there are slightly fewer options. Appetizers include chickpea dip (hummus), parsley salad (tabbouleh), and the Tunisian specialty grilled eggplant salad (mechouia). Besides grilled eggplant, the grilled eggplant salad (mechouia) contains tomatoes, chili peppers, onions, and olive oil, making it very healthy.
The main course features North African sausage (merguez), which is made with lamb and beef mixed with cumin, harissa sauce, chili, and various other spices; it dates back to 12th-century Andalusia and later spread throughout North Africa.
They also serve the classic North African Maghreb tomato and pepper poached egg dish, shakshouka. Shakshouka started in North Africa under Ottoman rule in the 16th century, when tomatoes and peppers were brought from the Americas and became part of the local diet.
They also have the Arab version of fried triangular pastries (sambousek), which is a classic snack for Muslims during Ramadan. Sambousek originated in Iran and entered the Arab diet after the 10th century, later spreading to India, China, Indonesia, and Africa. In some parts of eastern China, Hui Muslims still use the Persian name 'sanmosan'.









3.
Fang Zhongshan Hulatang Hujialou Branch
Fang Zhongshan came to Beijing in 2023 and started a trend for spicy pepper soup (hulatang). The Hujialou branch opened in early 2024, right on my commute.
On the first day Fang Zhongshan Hujialou opened after the Spring Festival, I went there for a mix of spicy pepper soup and tofu pudding (doufunao), plus a beef pie (niurouhe). The Hujialou branch is just a short walk from the Hujialou subway station on Line 6, so it is easy to get to. I arrived at 1:00 and did not have to wait in line; it is not as crowded as it was when it first opened.
I had heard that their spicy soup (hulatang) is very hot. I tried the mixed version, and it was quite spicy. I think some Beijingers who cannot handle spice might find it too much. However, they put plenty of beef and mushrooms inside, which gives it a rich texture. I have to praise their beef pastry (niurouhe). It is wrapped and fried to order, with a thin, crispy crust. It is a great experience. The filling is made of vermicelli and minced beef with a strong hint of Sichuan peppercorn, which should be very popular.









On my second visit, I ordered bean flour porridge (doumo), scallion pancake (congyoubing), and pan-fried buns (shuijianbao). There were more people than the day before, so I expect it will be packed again in a few days.
Their bean flour porridge (doumo) is more traditional than the spicy soup. It tastes just like the one I had on Shuncheng Street in Zhengzhou. It has vermicelli, peanuts, and other ingredients inside, and I think it suits the taste of Beijingers better. The scallion pancake (congyoubing) is very thin, freshly fried, and full of onion aroma with a great texture. Pan-fried buns (shuijianbao) are made in large batches, so you might not always get them fresh out of the pan, but they are still served hot. The filling is beef and vermicelli, with a strong, spicy kick from the seasonings.









The wall at the Fangzhongshan Hujialou branch displays the history of Fangzhongshan spicy soup (hulatang). It feels meaningful to share this cultural heritage.
Fangzhongshan’s grandfather, Fang Yinsheng, opened the Fang Family Soup Shop on Jiepai Street in Zhoukou, Henan, in 1922 and started selling spicy soup (hulatang).
After the Kuomintang caused the Yellow River to breach its banks in the 1938 Huayuankou incident, Henan suffered a severe disaster. Fang Yinsheng turned his soup shop into a relief station to help passing refugees.
After 1958, Fangzhongshan’s father, Fang Chaoyang, was hired as the general manager for three villages, where he oversaw food management for the people's commune.
In 1976, a restaurant for Hui Muslims was established in Xixiatin Town, Xihua County, Zhoukou, Henan, and Fang Chaoyang served as its first manager.
After the reform and opening-up policy, Fang Chaoyang took his son Fangzhongshan to Luohe to build their business, and in 1983, they opened the Fang Family Spicy Soup Shop in Luohe.






4. Zhang Dahui Spicy Soup (hulatang)
Following Fang Zhongshan, the Xiaoyao Town style Zhang Dahui Spicy Soup (hulatang) has also opened a shop in Beijing.
The Sanlitun branch is located in Baijiazhuang. The shop is small. In the morning, they sell spicy soup (hulatang), pan-fried buns (shuijianbao), sugar cakes (tanggao), vegetable pockets (caijiao), fried dough fritters (youmotou), and beef pies (niurouhe) until about 2:00 PM. In the evening, they sell braised noodles (huimian), lamb soup with sesame flatbread (yangtang shaobing), lamb bone marrow (yangbanggu), steamed vegetables (zhengcai), and crawfish (xiaolongxia). We arrived in the evening and ordered lamb braised noodles (yangrou huimian), steamed eggplant (zheng qiezi), lamb bone marrow (yangbanggu), and crawfish (xiaolongxia). I thought the lamb braised noodles (yangrou huimian) were quite tasty. The chef pulls the noodles fresh, and they are packed with ingredients and have a strong flavor. The steamed eggplant (zheng qiezi) is sweet, sour, and salty, seasoned with minced garlic and catnip (jingjie). It goes well with the braised noodles (huimian). The crawfish (xiaolongxia) were served cold, and I felt they were not spicy enough. The beef bone marrow (niubanggu) is braised in sauce, but I felt it was a bit too salty. Next time I have a chance, I will come in the morning to try their spicy soup (hulatang).










The founder of Zhang Dahui was the great-grandfather, Zhang Yongsui. In the early 20th century, Zhang Yongsui carried a pole to sell spicy soup (hulatang) at the Shahe River wharf in Xiaoyao Town, Xihua County, Zhoukou, Henan. Xiaoyao Town sits where the Shahe and Yinghe rivers meet. It has always been an important trade hub, and the area around the Shahe River wharf was especially busy. Starting in 1942, 14-year-old Zhang Quanfang began selling spicy soup (hulatang) with his father, Zhang Yongsui, at the crossroads in Xiaoyao Town. He sold it there for over thirty years. After the reform and opening up in 1979, the third-generation successor, Zhang Peigen, moved his whole family to Xihua County to open a shop. It was the first spicy soup (hulatang) business to move out of Xiaoyao Town. In the 1990s, the Zhang family opened Qingxiangyuan Old Zhang's Spicy Soup (hulatang) at the Round Corner Building in Xihua County Square. Later, the fourth-generation successor changed the name to Zhang Dahui Spicy Soup (hulatang), which is still open today.





5. Yu-style Xiaoyao Town Spicy Soup (hulatang)
There is finally a halal Xiaoyao Town spicy soup (hulatang) inside the Second Ring Road in Beijing!
A new shop called Yuwei Xiaoyao Town Spicy Soup opened on Dongsi North Street. For liquids, they have spicy soup (hulatang), tofu pudding (doufunao), a mix of both (liangchan), bean foam soup (doumo), soy milk (doujiang), eight-treasure porridge (babaozhou), and millet porridge (xiaomizhou). For solids, they have scallion oil pancakes (congyoubing), pan-fried buns (shuijianbao), beef pockets (niurouhe), fried dough strips (youmotou), beef buns (niuroubao), and vegetable buns (subao). I had the mix, a scallion oil pancake, and a pan-fried bun for breakfast. The spicy soup has beef slices, gluten, and wood ear mushrooms in it. It is not the super spicy version like Fang Zhongshan, but the traditional Xiaoyao Town flavor. Maybe because it was raining when they opened, the shop was not crowded. I missed out on the freshly made scallion oil pancakes and pan-fried buns, but the pan-fried buns were still hot and tasted great.









Yuwei Xiaoyao Town Spicy Soup officially opened on July 26, and many friends (dosti) came to visit. I had bean foam soup, fried dough strips, and pan-fried buns for breakfast. This time I caught the freshly fried dough strips, and they tasted very good.






In August, Yuwei Xiaoyao Town Spicy Soup added braised noodles (huimian) to the menu. It is a typical Zhengzhou nourishing braised noodle dish. The broth contains quail eggs, glass noodles (fensi), goji berries, and kelp. The chef pulls the noodles fresh to order. Their cold dishes are a bit pricey, and they are sold individually, unlike the braised noodle (huimian) shops in Henan where you can usually get a mix of dishes.



6. Qinyuanzhai Fresh Braised Duck Shop
I bought duck head, duck neck, duck web, duck gizzard, duck esophagus, tofu skin, kelp, and orchid-shaped tofu skewers at Qinyuanzhai Fresh Braised Duck Shop on Andingmen Inner Street. They have a good variety. The braised items are not very spicy, but they have a lingering heat, making them great for snacking.






7. Subuha Almond Tofu Jiaodaokou Branch
I went for a walk in the evening and visited the newly opened Subuha at Jiaodaokou, where I ordered almond tofu and coconut cheese. Their almond tofu is made like cheese, with both almond and milk flavors. It is quite delicious.
The second time I went, I had the matcha cheese, while Zainab had the lamb skewers and almond tofu. They also have 800 grams of sugar-free yogurt for 14.5 yuan, which feels like a good deal.








8. Shawarma City
I took Suleiman for a walk in Sanlitun in the evening. Down the stairs at Sanlitun SOHO, a new kebab wrap shop called Shawarma City just opened, and it has a real Middle Eastern street vibe. The owner is Palestinian. They specialize in beef wraps and chicken wraps, plus fried chicken, onion rings, and salty yogurt drink (ayran).
We had the beef wrap and ayran. The beef wrap was surprisingly delicious, and the meat was very tender. When we visited Turkey, the flatbread for the kebab wraps we bought on the street was always mass-produced and got hard once it cooled down. But their flatbread is made fresh to order. It is hot and crispy, and it tastes even better than the ones we bought in Turkey!






9. Tomato Casual Western Restaurant (Xihongshi) at Hopson One
After coming back from Badaling Wildlife Park, we went to Xihongshi Pizza and Pasta at Hopson One in Changping. The owner is a Hui Muslim from Xueying in Daxing, and he has opened several branches now.
We ordered the tomato beef pasta and cheese pizza. The portions were very small, and there wasn't much meat in the pasta, but the price was really cheap. I guess they focus on high volume.
The fries tasted good and were very fragrant. I think their best dish is the roast chicken. It is crispy on the outside and tender on the inside, which makes it very appetizing. They have another shop in the New Zhongguancun Shopping Center. Next time I pass by, I will definitely eat their roast chicken and fries again.









10. Ya'er Liji Courtyard
Last weekend, our family of three went to Ya'er Liji Courtyard by the Shayukou Reservoir in Huairou. The courtyard is a little over an hour from the city center by highway. If you take the bus, take the 924 express from outside Dongzhimen to the terminal station, Chawu Railway Station, and then transfer to the H27. However, the H27 runs very infrequently, and we just happened to catch the 11:50 bus on our way back.
Yar Liji Courtyard has two rooms with large beds and two rooms with large heated brick beds (kang). Saturday nights are busy, so you need to book ahead. The courtyard provides breakfast, which consists of corn, fried steamed bun slices (mantou pian), porridge, eggs, and pickled vegetables. For lunch and dinner, they serve stewed pots, hot pot meat (shuanrou), and barbecue, but there are very few stir-fried dishes.
Yar Liji Courtyard is right next to the Reservoir Mountain Bar Resort. The resort has all kinds of fitness equipment, small slides, and swings, which Suleiman loved. Behind the resort, you can climb up to the Shayukou Reservoir dam to see the view. The rocky path is a bit slippery on the way down, and Suleiman took a tumble. I guess that counts as his first memorable fall while hiking.






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