Best Halal Food in Hebei: Hui Muslim Restaurants, Beef Dishes and Local Snacks
Reposted from the web
Summary: This Hebei halal food map lists Hui Muslim restaurants, local beef dishes, noodles, snacks, and city-by-city food stops for Muslim travelers and readers following Chinese halal food.
Hebei's food is a mix without a single system, blending styles from Beijing, Tianjin, Shandong, and Shanxi. Because Hebei's geography varies so much from north to south, people say it is spicy in the south, sweet in the north, sour in the west, and salty in the east. This shows that Hebei's food style is basically having no style at all. Enough talk, let's get to the food.
First stop: Shijiazhuang.
1. Bamboo Fungus Goose Hot Pot Zhai (Zhusun E Huoguo Zhai).
The item floating in the picture above is bamboo fungus (zhusun). It is perfect for soup because its fluffy texture soaks up the broth and it has a slightly sandy crunch when you bite into it. Goose meat has a much better texture than chicken.
The picture above shows the cooked goose leg. Goose meat is not easy to find, so I highly recommend this goose hot pot place in Shijiazhuang.
Address: Intersection of Xinhua Road and Mosque Street (Qingzhensi Jie), Shijiazhuang.
2. Kaida Hot Pot Garden (Kaida Shuanyuan).
Shijiazhuang hot pot ingredients are similar to Beijing's, as many come from the Dachang area. This copper pot shop on Mosque Street is worth visiting because you can eat venison here.
It is right next to Bamboo Fungus Goose Hot Pot Zhai. Mosque Street is a street full of good food.
This plate of bright red meat rolls is venison. When eating hot pot, it is best to boil a slice in plain water first without dipping sauce to taste the meat quality. Venison is a bit dry and chewier than lamb.
The bowl used for the dipping sauce is quite unique. These are the only two distinctive halal restaurants I found in Shijiazhuang.
Address: Intersection of Mosque Street and Xinhua Road, Shijiazhuang.
Second stop: Qinhuangdao.
1. Halal Food Alley (Qingzhen Shipin Xiang).
Although it is called a food alley, it is actually quite short with only a few small, hole-in-the-wall shops. I don't remember the names, but they are located right behind the sign.
This is lamb head meat and tripe soup (tourou dusi tang). The head meat is from a sheep, and this way of eating is very similar to the food in the Central Plains.
You must add something filling when drinking the soup, so choose between a meat pie (xianbing) or a sesame flatbread (shaobing).
Address: Inside Halal Food Alley, Minzu South Road, Haigang District, Qinhuangdao.
2. Seafood Hui Muslim Restaurant (Haixian Huimin Fandian).
Coming to Qinhuangdao means seeing the sea and eating seafood. Halal seafood is easy to find here. This Hui Muslim restaurant is a relatively large halal place and the prices are not expensive.
Address: 40 meters east of the intersection of Xijing Road and Zhonghaitan Road.
3. Xilaishun.
This Xilaishun is not a branch of the famous old Beijing brand, but the food is still good. This was the first place I ever ate halal double-stir-fried meat (guobaorou) and spicy crab (xiangla xie).
Also, these steamed dumplings (zhengjiao) have a three-delicacy filling. Seafood makes you hungry quickly, so you need something more substantial.
Address: Xihaitan Road, Beidaihe District, Qinhuangdao City (Note: Maps might show another Xilaishun in Nandaihe, but they are not the same place).
4. Halal Steamed Dumpling House (Qingzhen Shaomai Guan)
Qinhuangdao is a tourist city with lots of good food. You can find steamed dumplings (shaomai) everywhere, but they get better the further north you go. You can spot this restaurant's big sign right by the road.
Address: No. 66 Minzu Road, Haigang District, Qinhuangdao City.
Stop 3: Chengde
1. Old Three Lamb Soup (Lao San Yangtang)
People in Chengde speak very much like people in Beijing, and their food tastes similar too. I recommend this place because it is truly famous and delicious locally. They serve lamb head with large sesame flatbread (shaobing). This flatbread is a size larger than the ones in Beijing, with a crispy crust and a soft, fluffy inside.
Address: Commercial Building 8#, No. 1 Beixinglong Street Residential Area, Shanzhuang East Road, Shuangqiao District, Chengde City.
Stop 4: Baoding
1. Zhili An Family Beef Zhaobing (Zhili Anjia Niurou Zhaobing)
Zhaobing is a famous Baoding snack, and the best ones in town are halal. The way you eat it is similar to soaked flatbread (paomo). When you order, the server will ask how many liang of meat and how many liang of flatbread you want, meaning how much meat or bread you want in the soup. Most people choose more meat because it tastes better.
Address: No. 199 Tian'e West Road, Baoding City (ground floor shops on the north side of the International Club).
Stop 5: Cangzhou
1. Yangshangyang Whole Lamb Soup (Yangshangyang Quanyangtang)
Cangzhou has too much good food, so I only picked one place because of my limited time. Local friends highly recommended the lamb soup, which has a unique local flavor, especially the small shops in the alleys. I arrived too late to try the soup, but I did taste the lamb leg at Yangshangyang, which was truly unforgettable. The dishes here are prepared with great care, making it one of the best restaurants I visited in Hebei.
Address: South side of the road, 200 meters west of Kangtai Spa City, Guangrong Road, Cangzhou City.
Stop 6: Xingtai
1. Yixinzhai Halal Specialty Shabu-Shabu (Yixinzhai Qingzhen Tese Shuanyangrou)
Although Xingtai has fewer famous foods, you can still find some good restaurants. A local friend told me that Wang Baoqiang is from Xingtai.
Address: Next to Tenda Car Repair, Kaifang West Road. Lamb soup is on the north side of the middle section of Zhonghua West Street (near the north gate of the First High School).
Stop 6: Tangshan
1. Muslim Restaurant (Musilin Fanzhuang)
I have been to Tangshan twice and ate at this restaurant both times, but I somehow never took any photos. The first time I had stir-fried dishes, and the second time I had hot pot mutton (shuanrou). The food was pretty good, and it is not that easy to find a halal restaurant in Tangshan.
Address: 50 Wenhua Road (on the west side of Fenghuangshan Park)
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Summary: This Hebei halal food map lists Hui Muslim restaurants, local beef dishes, noodles, snacks, and city-by-city food stops for Muslim travelers and readers following Chinese halal food.
Hebei's food is a mix without a single system, blending styles from Beijing, Tianjin, Shandong, and Shanxi. Because Hebei's geography varies so much from north to south, people say it is spicy in the south, sweet in the north, sour in the west, and salty in the east. This shows that Hebei's food style is basically having no style at all. Enough talk, let's get to the food.
First stop: Shijiazhuang.
1. Bamboo Fungus Goose Hot Pot Zhai (Zhusun E Huoguo Zhai).
The item floating in the picture above is bamboo fungus (zhusun). It is perfect for soup because its fluffy texture soaks up the broth and it has a slightly sandy crunch when you bite into it. Goose meat has a much better texture than chicken.
The picture above shows the cooked goose leg. Goose meat is not easy to find, so I highly recommend this goose hot pot place in Shijiazhuang.
Address: Intersection of Xinhua Road and Mosque Street (Qingzhensi Jie), Shijiazhuang.
2. Kaida Hot Pot Garden (Kaida Shuanyuan).
Shijiazhuang hot pot ingredients are similar to Beijing's, as many come from the Dachang area. This copper pot shop on Mosque Street is worth visiting because you can eat venison here.
It is right next to Bamboo Fungus Goose Hot Pot Zhai. Mosque Street is a street full of good food.
This plate of bright red meat rolls is venison. When eating hot pot, it is best to boil a slice in plain water first without dipping sauce to taste the meat quality. Venison is a bit dry and chewier than lamb.
The bowl used for the dipping sauce is quite unique. These are the only two distinctive halal restaurants I found in Shijiazhuang.
Address: Intersection of Mosque Street and Xinhua Road, Shijiazhuang.
Second stop: Qinhuangdao.
1. Halal Food Alley (Qingzhen Shipin Xiang).
Although it is called a food alley, it is actually quite short with only a few small, hole-in-the-wall shops. I don't remember the names, but they are located right behind the sign.
This is lamb head meat and tripe soup (tourou dusi tang). The head meat is from a sheep, and this way of eating is very similar to the food in the Central Plains.
You must add something filling when drinking the soup, so choose between a meat pie (xianbing) or a sesame flatbread (shaobing).
Address: Inside Halal Food Alley, Minzu South Road, Haigang District, Qinhuangdao.
2. Seafood Hui Muslim Restaurant (Haixian Huimin Fandian).
Coming to Qinhuangdao means seeing the sea and eating seafood. Halal seafood is easy to find here. This Hui Muslim restaurant is a relatively large halal place and the prices are not expensive.
Address: 40 meters east of the intersection of Xijing Road and Zhonghaitan Road.
3. Xilaishun.
This Xilaishun is not a branch of the famous old Beijing brand, but the food is still good. This was the first place I ever ate halal double-stir-fried meat (guobaorou) and spicy crab (xiangla xie).
Also, these steamed dumplings (zhengjiao) have a three-delicacy filling. Seafood makes you hungry quickly, so you need something more substantial.
Address: Xihaitan Road, Beidaihe District, Qinhuangdao City (Note: Maps might show another Xilaishun in Nandaihe, but they are not the same place).
4. Halal Steamed Dumpling House (Qingzhen Shaomai Guan)
Qinhuangdao is a tourist city with lots of good food. You can find steamed dumplings (shaomai) everywhere, but they get better the further north you go. You can spot this restaurant's big sign right by the road.
Address: No. 66 Minzu Road, Haigang District, Qinhuangdao City.
Stop 3: Chengde
1. Old Three Lamb Soup (Lao San Yangtang)
People in Chengde speak very much like people in Beijing, and their food tastes similar too. I recommend this place because it is truly famous and delicious locally. They serve lamb head with large sesame flatbread (shaobing). This flatbread is a size larger than the ones in Beijing, with a crispy crust and a soft, fluffy inside.
Address: Commercial Building 8#, No. 1 Beixinglong Street Residential Area, Shanzhuang East Road, Shuangqiao District, Chengde City.
Stop 4: Baoding
1. Zhili An Family Beef Zhaobing (Zhili Anjia Niurou Zhaobing)
Zhaobing is a famous Baoding snack, and the best ones in town are halal. The way you eat it is similar to soaked flatbread (paomo). When you order, the server will ask how many liang of meat and how many liang of flatbread you want, meaning how much meat or bread you want in the soup. Most people choose more meat because it tastes better.
Address: No. 199 Tian'e West Road, Baoding City (ground floor shops on the north side of the International Club).
Stop 5: Cangzhou
1. Yangshangyang Whole Lamb Soup (Yangshangyang Quanyangtang)
Cangzhou has too much good food, so I only picked one place because of my limited time. Local friends highly recommended the lamb soup, which has a unique local flavor, especially the small shops in the alleys. I arrived too late to try the soup, but I did taste the lamb leg at Yangshangyang, which was truly unforgettable. The dishes here are prepared with great care, making it one of the best restaurants I visited in Hebei.
Address: South side of the road, 200 meters west of Kangtai Spa City, Guangrong Road, Cangzhou City.
Stop 6: Xingtai
1. Yixinzhai Halal Specialty Shabu-Shabu (Yixinzhai Qingzhen Tese Shuanyangrou)
Although Xingtai has fewer famous foods, you can still find some good restaurants. A local friend told me that Wang Baoqiang is from Xingtai.
Address: Next to Tenda Car Repair, Kaifang West Road. Lamb soup is on the north side of the middle section of Zhonghua West Street (near the north gate of the First High School).
Stop 6: Tangshan
1. Muslim Restaurant (Musilin Fanzhuang)
I have been to Tangshan twice and ate at this restaurant both times, but I somehow never took any photos. The first time I had stir-fried dishes, and the second time I had hot pot mutton (shuanrou). The food was pretty good, and it is not that easy to find a halal restaurant in Tangshan.
Address: 50 Wenhua Road (on the west side of Fenghuangshan Park)
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Best Halal Food in Tianjin: Hui Muslim Snacks, Seafood and Local Restaurants
Reposted from the web
Summary: This Tianjin halal food map gathers Hui Muslim snacks, seafood, beef dishes, local restaurants, and food stops across the city, keeping the names, locations, dishes, and photos from the Chinese source.
Last time we looked at halal food in Beijing. This time we are going a bit further to Tianjin to see what is good to eat. Tianjin is not far at all. It takes half an hour from the South Railway Station, about the same time as taking the subway from Niujie to Guomao.
8275 Temptation New-Style Cuisine
My first stop in Tianjin was a halal restaurant featuring new-style cuisine. New-style means they take traditional dishes and innovate them. Even the names of the dishes are unique, giving someone like me who is used to traditional halal food a fresh experience.
There is a plaque on the wall with the Shahada written in Arabic, so I knew it was a halal restaurant.
The style is clearly not the traditional West Asian or Middle Eastern look of most halal restaurants. It feels more like a trendy cafe.
Let's look at the food:
The yogurt comes in a lightbulb. It is thick and tastes quite good. Next to it is a Japanese soda with a light flavor.
This is not ice cream. It is a salmon salad served in an egg roll cone. It tastes delicious and the cone is crispy. I admire the chef's creativity.
This is stir-fried duck slices in bean sauce, but the menu calls it Childhood Taste Stir-fried Duck. Maybe the highlight is the sour plum powder on top. It is different from my childhood memories, as this duck is very sweet. My childhood memory of duck is roast duck, but that is understandable since I am not from Tianjin.
I don't remember the name of this scallop dish, but you can't go wrong eating seafood in Tianjin.
This big pot of seafood is called Seafood Castle. It is named a castle to show that the dish is big and has everything. Under the crabs are large shrimp, and there are also small squid, fish tofu, and other sides. It costs 138 yuan, and two people will be full after one plate.
8275 Temptation New-Style Cuisine address: 05-06, 1st Floor, North Building, Nanshi Hotel Street (next to Yangguofu Malatang).
Dashunzhai Liu Family Sesame Flatbread (shaobing)
This is a very famous and authentic Tianjin lamb soup shop. The storefront is small, but people line up every morning to drink the lamb soup.
A bowl of lamb soup with sesame paste and chili oil makes my mouth water before I even take a sip.
Sesame flatbread with cooked meat is their signature. I can easily eat two in one sitting. The beef is stewed until very tender and does not get stuck in your teeth. It sells out every day, and you must eat the flatbread fresh out of the oven.
The owner's family are authentic Hui Muslims from Tianjin. The shop is smoke-free and alcohol-free, the ladies wear headscarves, and they close every Friday for Jumu'ah. I like that.
Dashunzhai Liu Family Sesame Flatbread address: 5 Binguan Road (near Tonglou Hotel).
Halal Yuan Restaurant
A traditional halal restaurant with Tianjin flavors.
The environment has been newly renovated and is very spacious.
The tableware is quite pretty.
Steamed dumplings (shaomai) are not necessarily a Tianjin specialty, but the ones in Tianjin are truly delicious. I ordered the beef and green onion filling, and four were not enough for me.
Stir-fried gluten with shrimp is an appetizing dish that helps with digestion.
I like sole fish soup (longli yu tang) and other saltwater fish because they have few bones and are nutritious. However, Tianjin cuisine is noticeably salty. For a healthier diet, I think it is better to use less salt.
Location: Block B, 3rd Floor, Xinpeng Joy City, Hongqiao District.
Halal seafood food stall.
This is a very popular seafood food stall. Even though it is in an out-of-the-way location, it is always full of customers.
The red and green colors look bright and appetizing.
Everything is fresh, and because so many people eat here, the stock turns over quickly.
A platter of edamame and peanuts (maohua pin) is a must-have appetizer at any food stall.
Boiled octopus (baizhuo bazhua) has a fresh and tender texture.
Smashed cucumber (pai huanggua) is my go-to dish.
Boiled sea snails (baizhuo hualuo) are best prepared this way to bring out their natural flavor.
A food stall wouldn't be complete without barbecue, and their lamb skewers (yangrou chuan) are very flavorful.
Spicy crab (xiangla xie) is a great way to satisfy a craving.
It is not easy to find halal crayfish (xiaolongxia), but many places in Tianjin sell them.
Halal seafood food stall address: Near the intersection of Jieyuan West Road and Lintong Road.
Hongqishun flagship store.
Hongqishun is a famous, long-standing brand in Tianjin with many branches.
This is the flagship store.
Check the menu on the wall to order; they mainly serve local Tianjin dishes.
They had a promotion on roast duck, and I was curious about the taste of Tianjin-style roast duck, so I ordered one.
The pancake wraps (juanbing) come in three colors, but they all taste about the same.
The roast duck is decent; it is roasted with fruitwood, and the skin is crispy.
As someone from the capital, roast duck isn't what I would recommend most. What really surprised me were the pastries from the Hongqishun takeout window. The egg tarts (dan ta) and egg yolk pastries (danhuang su) were so delicious they were out of this world. I bought some to take home, and it is no exaggeration to say I would take the intercity train just to buy a box of Hongqishun pastries.
Hongqishun flagship store address: 120 Dazhigu Middle Road. Collapse Read »
Summary: This Tianjin halal food map gathers Hui Muslim snacks, seafood, beef dishes, local restaurants, and food stops across the city, keeping the names, locations, dishes, and photos from the Chinese source.
Last time we looked at halal food in Beijing. This time we are going a bit further to Tianjin to see what is good to eat. Tianjin is not far at all. It takes half an hour from the South Railway Station, about the same time as taking the subway from Niujie to Guomao.
8275 Temptation New-Style Cuisine
My first stop in Tianjin was a halal restaurant featuring new-style cuisine. New-style means they take traditional dishes and innovate them. Even the names of the dishes are unique, giving someone like me who is used to traditional halal food a fresh experience.
There is a plaque on the wall with the Shahada written in Arabic, so I knew it was a halal restaurant.
The style is clearly not the traditional West Asian or Middle Eastern look of most halal restaurants. It feels more like a trendy cafe.
Let's look at the food:
The yogurt comes in a lightbulb. It is thick and tastes quite good. Next to it is a Japanese soda with a light flavor.
This is not ice cream. It is a salmon salad served in an egg roll cone. It tastes delicious and the cone is crispy. I admire the chef's creativity.
This is stir-fried duck slices in bean sauce, but the menu calls it Childhood Taste Stir-fried Duck. Maybe the highlight is the sour plum powder on top. It is different from my childhood memories, as this duck is very sweet. My childhood memory of duck is roast duck, but that is understandable since I am not from Tianjin.
I don't remember the name of this scallop dish, but you can't go wrong eating seafood in Tianjin.
This big pot of seafood is called Seafood Castle. It is named a castle to show that the dish is big and has everything. Under the crabs are large shrimp, and there are also small squid, fish tofu, and other sides. It costs 138 yuan, and two people will be full after one plate.
8275 Temptation New-Style Cuisine address: 05-06, 1st Floor, North Building, Nanshi Hotel Street (next to Yangguofu Malatang).
Dashunzhai Liu Family Sesame Flatbread (shaobing)
This is a very famous and authentic Tianjin lamb soup shop. The storefront is small, but people line up every morning to drink the lamb soup.
A bowl of lamb soup with sesame paste and chili oil makes my mouth water before I even take a sip.
Sesame flatbread with cooked meat is their signature. I can easily eat two in one sitting. The beef is stewed until very tender and does not get stuck in your teeth. It sells out every day, and you must eat the flatbread fresh out of the oven.
The owner's family are authentic Hui Muslims from Tianjin. The shop is smoke-free and alcohol-free, the ladies wear headscarves, and they close every Friday for Jumu'ah. I like that.
Dashunzhai Liu Family Sesame Flatbread address: 5 Binguan Road (near Tonglou Hotel).
Halal Yuan Restaurant
A traditional halal restaurant with Tianjin flavors.
The environment has been newly renovated and is very spacious.
The tableware is quite pretty.
Steamed dumplings (shaomai) are not necessarily a Tianjin specialty, but the ones in Tianjin are truly delicious. I ordered the beef and green onion filling, and four were not enough for me.
Stir-fried gluten with shrimp is an appetizing dish that helps with digestion.
I like sole fish soup (longli yu tang) and other saltwater fish because they have few bones and are nutritious. However, Tianjin cuisine is noticeably salty. For a healthier diet, I think it is better to use less salt.
Location: Block B, 3rd Floor, Xinpeng Joy City, Hongqiao District.
Halal seafood food stall.
This is a very popular seafood food stall. Even though it is in an out-of-the-way location, it is always full of customers.
The red and green colors look bright and appetizing.
Everything is fresh, and because so many people eat here, the stock turns over quickly.
A platter of edamame and peanuts (maohua pin) is a must-have appetizer at any food stall.
Boiled octopus (baizhuo bazhua) has a fresh and tender texture.
Smashed cucumber (pai huanggua) is my go-to dish.
Boiled sea snails (baizhuo hualuo) are best prepared this way to bring out their natural flavor.
A food stall wouldn't be complete without barbecue, and their lamb skewers (yangrou chuan) are very flavorful.
Spicy crab (xiangla xie) is a great way to satisfy a craving.
It is not easy to find halal crayfish (xiaolongxia), but many places in Tianjin sell them.
Halal seafood food stall address: Near the intersection of Jieyuan West Road and Lintong Road.
Hongqishun flagship store.
Hongqishun is a famous, long-standing brand in Tianjin with many branches.
This is the flagship store.
Check the menu on the wall to order; they mainly serve local Tianjin dishes.
They had a promotion on roast duck, and I was curious about the taste of Tianjin-style roast duck, so I ordered one.
The pancake wraps (juanbing) come in three colors, but they all taste about the same.
The roast duck is decent; it is roasted with fruitwood, and the skin is crispy.
As someone from the capital, roast duck isn't what I would recommend most. What really surprised me were the pastries from the Hongqishun takeout window. The egg tarts (dan ta) and egg yolk pastries (danhuang su) were so delicious they were out of this world. I bought some to take home, and it is no exaggeration to say I would take the intercity train just to buy a box of Hongqishun pastries.
Hongqishun flagship store address: 120 Dazhigu Middle Road. Collapse Read »
Hidden Muslim Food Near Beijing: Nanying Village Aqiqah Feast and Langfang Mosque
Reposted from the web
Summary: This Langfang travel note visits Nanying Village near Beijing for an aqiqah feast, Hui Muslim lamb dishes, local restaurants, butcher shops, and Nanying Mosque.
On Sunday, I was invited to Nanying Village in Langfang, Hebei, to attend a feast for a friend's newborn. In our faith, this is called Aqiqah, a way to give thanks to Allah for the baby's arrival.
The entire street in Nanying Village is packed with restaurants and butcher shops run by Hui Muslims. We ate at Laowu Restaurant, right at the south entrance of the village. Our friend had a sheep slaughtered, and the restaurant prepared a full lamb feast for us. It included roasted lamb chops, braised lamb knuckle tendons (wogujin), stir-fried lamb offal with coriander (yanbao yangza), sesame lamb, and clear-boiled meatballs (qingcuan wanzi). Of course, we also had the fried dough (youxiang) that is essential for any religious feast. Their cooking was better than many places I have tried in Beijing, partly because they use freshly slaughtered lamb. The fresh lamb offal had no chili or Sichuan peppercorns, just a quick stir-fry with coriander stems. It is rare to taste such a clean, fresh flavor in lamb offal. The lamb knuckle tendons had a great texture; they were softer than regular hoof tendons but still had a nice chew. The sesame lamb was also very tender. Many Beijing restaurants make it tough, but this was the best I have ever had. The meatballs were firm and meaty, unlike some places in Beijing where they are full of starch and you can barely taste the meat. Freshly slaughtered lamb is perfect for clear-boiled meatballs. If you deep-fried them, you would lose that fresh flavor.
They have plenty of other dishes too. It takes less than an hour to drive here from Beijing via the Beijing-Shanghai Expressway. On the way back, you have to go through a checkpoint where they check your trunk, but we barely had to wait in line on Sunday afternoon.
After the feast, we visited the Nanying Mosque. Nanying Mosque was first built during the Yongle reign of the Ming Dynasty. Legend says it was built with donations from Hui Muslims with the surnames Qian, Ma, Zhang, and Dai, after the Qian and Ma brothers moved here from Zhuxian Town in Henan. The mosque was rebuilt during the Jiaqing period of the Qing Dynasty and was rebuilt again in 1998 to become the building we see today. The mosque is kept very neat and tidy, with bright windows and clean floors. Imam Qian, who serves at the mosque, is a local. He is young, capable, and very welcoming to us.
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Summary: This Langfang travel note visits Nanying Village near Beijing for an aqiqah feast, Hui Muslim lamb dishes, local restaurants, butcher shops, and Nanying Mosque.
On Sunday, I was invited to Nanying Village in Langfang, Hebei, to attend a feast for a friend's newborn. In our faith, this is called Aqiqah, a way to give thanks to Allah for the baby's arrival.
The entire street in Nanying Village is packed with restaurants and butcher shops run by Hui Muslims. We ate at Laowu Restaurant, right at the south entrance of the village. Our friend had a sheep slaughtered, and the restaurant prepared a full lamb feast for us. It included roasted lamb chops, braised lamb knuckle tendons (wogujin), stir-fried lamb offal with coriander (yanbao yangza), sesame lamb, and clear-boiled meatballs (qingcuan wanzi). Of course, we also had the fried dough (youxiang) that is essential for any religious feast. Their cooking was better than many places I have tried in Beijing, partly because they use freshly slaughtered lamb. The fresh lamb offal had no chili or Sichuan peppercorns, just a quick stir-fry with coriander stems. It is rare to taste such a clean, fresh flavor in lamb offal. The lamb knuckle tendons had a great texture; they were softer than regular hoof tendons but still had a nice chew. The sesame lamb was also very tender. Many Beijing restaurants make it tough, but this was the best I have ever had. The meatballs were firm and meaty, unlike some places in Beijing where they are full of starch and you can barely taste the meat. Freshly slaughtered lamb is perfect for clear-boiled meatballs. If you deep-fried them, you would lose that fresh flavor.
They have plenty of other dishes too. It takes less than an hour to drive here from Beijing via the Beijing-Shanghai Expressway. On the way back, you have to go through a checkpoint where they check your trunk, but we barely had to wait in line on Sunday afternoon.
After the feast, we visited the Nanying Mosque. Nanying Mosque was first built during the Yongle reign of the Ming Dynasty. Legend says it was built with donations from Hui Muslims with the surnames Qian, Ma, Zhang, and Dai, after the Qian and Ma brothers moved here from Zhuxian Town in Henan. The mosque was rebuilt during the Jiaqing period of the Qing Dynasty and was rebuilt again in 1998 to become the building we see today. The mosque is kept very neat and tidy, with bright windows and clean floors. Imam Qian, who serves at the mosque, is a local. He is young, capable, and very welcoming to us.
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Best Halal Food in Beijing: 10 Muslim-Friendly Restaurants Worth Trying (Part 8)
Reposted from the web
Summary: This eighth Beijing halal restaurant roundup covers Xinjiang, Hui Muslim, Palestinian, Pakistani, Turkish, and local Muslim-friendly food spots, with dishes and locations kept from the original guide.
Xinjiang Hui Muslim home-style cooking One Yellow Carrot (Yige Huangluobo), Liaoning Hui Muslim spicy hot pot (malatang), Hebei Daming Hui Muslim meat pie noodles (roubing yimian) Liaoyuan, Hebei Chengde Hui Muslim steamed dumplings (shaomai) Dongtucheng branch, Xilaishun Xisi branch, Longfu Mosque market, Heilongjiang Suihua Hui Muslim Ma's Muxiangyuan Baizhifang branch, Turpan Uyghur restaurant Tianshan, Niujie cafe Sanwanghu, and Heilongjiang Hui Muslim iron pot stew (tieguodun).
Xinjiang Hui Muslim home-style cooking One Yellow Carrot (Yige Huangluobo).
I wonder if any fellow friends (dosti) remember ten years ago in 2016, when there was a small shop in Beijing's Shifoying area called Two Spoons (Liangge Shaozi) run by two best friends from Changji. The head chefs were the sisters' mothers, and they made authentic Xinjiang Hui Muslim home-style food. Back then, I wanted to eat there every day. Their hand-pulled noodles (latiaozi) and meatball soup (wanzi tang) were the most authentic I had ever eaten in Beijing. Unfortunately, after the city started clearing out small shops that had broken through walls to create entrances, they were forced to close. Other Xinjiang Hui Muslim shops have opened in Beijing since, like the hand-pulled noodles (latiaozi) at Jianghu in Wangjing, which are very good. But for ten whole years, I never again tasted that specific home-cooked Xinjiang Hui Muslim flavor in Beijing.
A while ago, I heard that a new Xinjiang Hui Muslim family restaurant called One Yellow Carrot (Yige Huangluobo) opened in 798. It is also run by two Xinjiang sisters, with their mother as the head chef. I went to try it on the weekend. The place was packed, and we had to wait for a few tables to clear before we could get in. The service was great. The owner was very enthusiastic and introduced the dishes to every table.
We ordered tiger skin peppers (hupi lazi), cold starch noodles (liangpizi), meatball soup (wanzi tang), pearl meatballs (zhenzhu wanzi), and beef stew (niurou huicai). The best thing they make is the meatballs; they taste exactly like the ones made at home. The meatball soup (wanzi tang) was good overall, but the biggest problem was that the broth was too clear. At first, I suspected it was just plain water, but I asked the staff and they confirmed it was beef bone broth. I feel it hadn't been simmered long enough to bring out the flavor. Also, they only give you one steamed oil flower roll (youtazi) and you cannot buy them separately. While I understand that many Beijingers might not want to eat oil flower rolls (youtazi), there are people like us who grew up with Xinjiang flavors and feel that meatball soup (wanzi tang) must be paired with a few of them.
The cold starch noodles (liangpizi) were also quite good. The sauce is probably the best-seasoned one in Beijing. Anyone who has eaten the three cold dishes (sanliang) at a Hui Muslim place in Xinjiang would recognize that their sauce is very authentic. However, I still think a hot sauce has more flavor.
The pearl meatballs (zhenzhu wanzi) and beef stew (niurou huicai) were different from how we make them at home. Of course, I am used to the Hui Muslim style from the Saybagh District in Urumqi, and Hui Muslim cooking styles vary across Xinjiang. The pearl meatballs (zhenzhu wanzi) were a bit loose and fell apart as soon as I picked them up. I feel they should be firmer. The meatballs and beef in the beef stew (niurou huicai) were quite good, and the spicy pepper skins (lapi zi) were very authentic. They were extremely spicy, though, so friends (dosti) who cannot handle heat might struggle.
Overall, I am very happy that Beijing has another Xinjiang Hui Muslim family restaurant. I hope they continue to do well. Congratulations.
Liaoning Hui Muslim spicy hot pot (malatang).
After work, I went to a spicy hot pot (malatang) shop run by a Liaoning Hui Muslim family at Chaowai SOHO. They have spicy hot pot (malatang), spicy mixed noodles (malaban), deep-fried skewers (zhachuan), mixed cold noodles (ban lengmian), and also sell seaweed rice rolls (zicai baofan). They mainly serve takeout for the office workers upstairs, and the dine-in area is very small.
The spicy hot pot (malatang) has that old-fashioned Northeast style with a thick sesame paste flavor. It is salty and sweet, which I really like. The deep-fried skewers (zhachuan) are sprinkled with a dry seasoning of cumin, sesame, and salt. The chicken and sausages were delicious, but the fried lotus root was a bit dry and hard. The mixed cold noodles have a good texture, but they are warm instead of cold, which I don't really like. I ended up packing the seaweed rice rolls (gimbap) to eat at the office the next day at noon.
Hui Muslim meat pie (roubing) and braised noodles (yimian) at Liaoyuan in Daming, Hebei.
Hui Muslim steamed dumplings (shaomai) at the Dongtucheng branch in Chengde, Hebei.
After work, I went to the newly opened Chengde steamed dumpling restaurant, Dechengli, in Dongtucheng. Their Fengtai branch is larger and sells the eight big bowls (badawan) feast, while the Dongtucheng branch is smaller and focuses on steamed dumplings, steamed meat dumplings (zhengjiao), and the Chengde specialty almond tea (xingrench).
The shop is run by a Hui Muslim couple from Chengde. They steam the dumplings and brew the almond tea to order in an open, clean, and bright kitchen. I used a group-buying deal for steamed dumplings with a side of vegetarian radish ball soup. The steamer comes with eight dumplings; the skins are thin and the filling is firm, almost like a meatball. The vegetarian radish balls are also very good. The almond tea is six yuan for a big bowl. It has a very rich almond flavor and tastes great.
Xilaisun Xisi branch.
A new Xilaisun opened at the entrance of Xisi Sixth Alley, so I finally don't have to run to the Hepingmen branch every time. However, the Xisi branch is quite small and has fewer dishes. The staff said if you want to eat dishes from the main store, you can call one day in advance to order.
We ordered the classic Ma Lianliang duck, roasted lamb (shaoyangrou), stir-stir-fried meat slices with fresh mushrooms, diced chicken with cashews, mixed wild mountain vegetables, and sesame paste sugar flatbread (majiang tangbing). We also ordered an extra portion of lotus leaf buns (heyebing). Ma Lianliang duck is my favorite. I think it tastes better than Beijing roast duck, and the leavened lotus leaf buns are much better than the thin pancakes served with roast duck. Their roasted lamb skin is a bit hard, but the flavor is very fragrant, and it tastes great tucked inside a lotus leaf bun. The diced chicken with cashews is a little salty, but very fresh. The mixed wild mountain vegetables are not salty and are fine to eat on their own. The stir-stir-fried meat slices with mushrooms are delicious and go well with both rice and lotus leaf buns. The children really like the sesame paste sugar flatbread.
In short, Xilaisun has always been a Beijing restaurant I highly recommend. If you are in the north and have a small group, like a few friends or a family of three, I recommend coming here. Friends in the south should still go to the Hepingmen branch for a wider variety of dishes.
Longfusi Market.
I went to the market at Longfu Mosque before the Spring Festival. I heard later that it became a permanent fixture, so I stopped by for a walk after work a while ago. Longfu Mosque has really turned into a pedestrian street now. There are security guards at every entrance to keep cars out, so you don't have to dodge traffic while walking around. The stalls in April are quite different from the ones in February. Coming in from the north, you'll find Longfu Mosque Snack Shop and Baikui. A bit further in is Wanhe Beef, and across from the main building entrance is Jinfang. To the east, by the entrance of the Donggong cinema, is Lianying Shaomai (steamed dumplings). The weather is warmer now, so it's easy to grab a snack outdoors after work. There are tables and chairs available.
Longfu Mosque Snack Shop and Baikui are right next to each other with four tables. I arrived after 5:00 p.m. and it wasn't crowded, but it was full by 6:00 p.m. I started with the ingot-shaped dumpling soup (yuanbao tang) and pea flour cake (wandouhuang) at Longfu Mosque Snack Shop. It tasted just like the regular shop. The dumplings are wrapped fresh. Then I had a fried chicken leg at Baikui. It tasted the same as the shop, but it wasn't freshly fried and was only lukewarm. The skin got tough after I heated it in the microwave.
After eating, I bought some mung bean milk (douzhi) at Jinfang. The bagged mung bean milk at Jinfang is their own brand, while the bottled version is from Jinxin. It's time to drink cold mung bean milk in the summer. My son really likes it.
I had a beef and cilantro roll on a hot plate and a meat burger (roujiamo) at Wanhe Beef on Longfu Mosque Street. It's a Lanzhou-style restaurant, and there are seats in front of the stall. The beef and cilantro roll was 4 yuan and quite tasty. The meat burger was also good, but at 15 yuan, it didn't have much meat, so it wasn't really worth it.
Mashi Muxiangyuan, a Hui Muslim restaurant from Suihua, Heilongjiang, at the Baizhifang branch.
A while ago, I ate at Mashi Muxiangyuan, a Hui Muslim restaurant from Suihua, Heilongjiang, in Fangzhuang. It tasted good and wasn't expensive. I recently heard they opened a new branch in Baizhifang, so a friend and I decided to go try it.
The new shop was busy. We ordered sweet and sour pork (guobaorou), pickled cabbage with vermicelli, stir-fried beef brisket (liu xiongkou), and dry-braised sea bass. The sweet and sour pork was appetizing, though the crust was a bit hard. Overall, it was okay. The pickled cabbage with vermicelli was the best. At 28 yuan, it was a good price and went perfectly with rice. We almost finished it as soon as it arrived. The dry-braised sea bass was also delicious. It was well-seasoned and had very few bones. I have to criticize the stir-fried beef brisket. The portion was small, so they added a lot of large onion chunks to fill the plate. That was unnecessary. I've never had it served with that many onions when eating in Northeast China. If the portion is small, they should just use a smaller plate.
Because it was so crowded, we waited a long time for our food, so the restaurant gave us complimentary yogurt and lamb liver with garlic sauce. Their lamb liver was quite good. It didn't have any gamey smell at all and tasted great even on its own. I have to give them credit for that.
Tianshan, a Uyghur restaurant from Turpan.
I used to go to those Uyghur restaurants on the upper street of Ritan Park every time I took my child there for a walk. I decided to try somewhere new this time, so I went to Tianshan Restaurant near Xiushui Street. It is actually not far from Ritan Park, but I rarely go that way, so this was my first time eating there.
The owner is a Uyghur from Turpan and is very welcoming. We ordered big plate chicken (dapanji), mixed noodles with long beans (jiangdou banmian), spinach with gluten (bocai mianjin), and grilled meat skewers (kaorou). Overall, it was quite authentic. I watched them pull the noodles in the open kitchen; they were very chewy and on the firmer side, which my son loved so much he ate a lot by himself. The long bean dish was also great. The sauce tasted just right, and the meat was firm and chewy, not like the soft, soggy kind that has been marinated too long. The grilled meat skewers were very tender, which the kids especially liked. The big plate chicken was just okay. It used standard broiler chicken, but the flavor was decent. The spinach with gluten is hard to find in Beijing, and it was sour and very appetizing. The Uyghur style is a bit oilier; Hui Muslim families from Xinjiang usually use less oil when they cook.
Niujie Cafe Sanwanghu.
Heilongjiang Hui Muslim Iron Pot Stew.
Last Sunday afternoon, I took my son to Madian Park to play on the slides and burn off some energy, then we went to eat at Uncle Oyster's Iron Pot Stew (Haoshu Tieguodun) in Jiandemen. The big rooster set meal is a great value. It includes half a chicken, cabbage, vermicelli, potatoes, three cornmeal flatbreads (tiebingzi), and a plate of smashed cucumber, plus they gave the kid some milk skin yogurt (naipizi suannai) for free.
After the pot arrives, you stick the flatbreads on the side first, then set a timer for 15 minutes. When the time is up, you open the pot, add the vermicelli, and set another 5-minute timer before it is ready to eat. The saltiness is suited for Northern tastes. If you are from the South, you can tell the staff to make it lighter. We asked for it to be lighter because of my son, and he didn't find it too salty. The portion size of the set meal is plenty; it is just right for two adults.
They also have noodle lotus root (mianou), which was my first time trying. I looked it up and it is popular in Shandong and Henan. It is basically tube-shaped gluten made from wheat flour, and it is very chewy. The usual way to serve it is with sesame paste and garlic. They make it with a very strong garlic flavor, which really brings out the taste.
Part 1: 10 Halal restaurants in Beijing worth trying: Pakistani restaurant Lahore Courtyard, Henan Jiaozuo beef knife-cut noodles Mai Mai Hong, Halal Mongolian food Hulun Aile, West African Ghana Tribe Garden, Xi'an Xing Laosi meatball spicy soup, Xinjiang Changji Jinying meatball soup, Xinjiang Hotan Canteen, Syrian BRBR, Beijing fusion food Gulou Eating Noodles, and Beijing traditional food Xilai Shun.
Part 2: 10 Halal restaurants in Beijing worth trying (Part 2): UAE restaurant Gulf Mandi, Xinjiang Mansion Xihan Meatball Soup, Xinjiang Mansion Lobby Altai Afternoon Tea, Muhejia Rotating Hot Pot, Xinjiang Urumqi Nazilan (closed), Beijing pastry shop Baoyuanzhai (closed), Pakistani Samosa China-Pakistan Friendship Restaurant, Master Ma's Roast Duck (closed), Bangladeshi Benjibi Restaurant, and Huairou Shihu Cheng Resort.
Part 3: 10 recently tried Beijing restaurant recommendations: JM Italian Coffee Dongsi Branch, Halal Hunan food Huixiangyun Stir-fry Wangjing Branch (closed), Shandong Dezhou Old Ma's Lamb Soup and Steamed Dumplings, Sanlitun Philly Cheesesteak, Pakistani Roma Restaurant, Muyuzhai Rotten Garlic Lamb Intestines, Inner Mongolia Lianying Shaomai Grassland Pomegranate Red, Wangfujing Gansu Spicy Hot Pot, and Yuezhen Yayuan Halal Courtyard Restaurant.
Part 4: 10 Halal restaurants in Beijing worth trying (Part 4): Hotan Rose Pilaf Yizhuang Branch, Taiba Western Bakery, Taiba South Sanlitun Road Street Shop, Zhaotong Small Meat Skewers Guijie Ganmaya BBQ (closed), Bai Xiaobei Heilongjiang BBQ, Yunnan Muwenzhai Dry Pot Beef, Sanlitun Xinjiang restaurant Jiangjiang, Huixiangyun Halal Hunan Restaurant Zuojiazhuang Branch, Yili Ice Cream Shop Bazaar Sweetheart, and Dongzhimen Inner Street Qianyuan Hotel.
Part 5: 10 halal restaurants in Beijing worth trying (Part 5). Sandyq Kazakh Restaurant, Kashgar Restaurant, Ahmed Restaurant, Jingbalang Naan Bazaar, MacMac Lebanese Restaurant, Humaer Xinjiang Specialty Food, Lao Huihui Dumpling Restaurant (Zoo branch), Fresh Milk Town (Shuangjing branch, now closed), Nawab Restaurant, and Liu's Watch Repair and Barbecue.
Part 6: 10 halal restaurants in Beijing worth trying (Part 6). Hongyunlou Huaiyang Cuisine, Sanhe Beef Noodles (now closed), JM Coffee and Bakery (Daji Lane branch), Wanhe Fatty Beef, Xiangqing Roast Duck (now closed), Culture Pakistani Restaurant, Firenze Italian Restaurant, Niujie Dashuntang, Zhenweizhai Tianjin Cuisine, and Dardanelles Kids' Meal.
Part 7: 10 halal restaurants in Beijing worth trying (Part 7). JM Western Restaurant (Chaonei branch), Rose City Palestinian Restaurant, Baoding beef cover pancake (niurou zhaobing), Al Rayyan Pakistani Restaurant, Yili Loulan Restaurant (Guijie branch), Dianxinyuan Yunnan Cuisine, Muxiangyuan Heilongjiang Suihua Restaurant, Sanli Tun Turkish Restaurant, Chaoyangmen fast food stall, and Habibi Pakistani buffet. Collapse Read »
Summary: This eighth Beijing halal restaurant roundup covers Xinjiang, Hui Muslim, Palestinian, Pakistani, Turkish, and local Muslim-friendly food spots, with dishes and locations kept from the original guide.
Xinjiang Hui Muslim home-style cooking One Yellow Carrot (Yige Huangluobo), Liaoning Hui Muslim spicy hot pot (malatang), Hebei Daming Hui Muslim meat pie noodles (roubing yimian) Liaoyuan, Hebei Chengde Hui Muslim steamed dumplings (shaomai) Dongtucheng branch, Xilaishun Xisi branch, Longfu Mosque market, Heilongjiang Suihua Hui Muslim Ma's Muxiangyuan Baizhifang branch, Turpan Uyghur restaurant Tianshan, Niujie cafe Sanwanghu, and Heilongjiang Hui Muslim iron pot stew (tieguodun).
Xinjiang Hui Muslim home-style cooking One Yellow Carrot (Yige Huangluobo).
I wonder if any fellow friends (dosti) remember ten years ago in 2016, when there was a small shop in Beijing's Shifoying area called Two Spoons (Liangge Shaozi) run by two best friends from Changji. The head chefs were the sisters' mothers, and they made authentic Xinjiang Hui Muslim home-style food. Back then, I wanted to eat there every day. Their hand-pulled noodles (latiaozi) and meatball soup (wanzi tang) were the most authentic I had ever eaten in Beijing. Unfortunately, after the city started clearing out small shops that had broken through walls to create entrances, they were forced to close. Other Xinjiang Hui Muslim shops have opened in Beijing since, like the hand-pulled noodles (latiaozi) at Jianghu in Wangjing, which are very good. But for ten whole years, I never again tasted that specific home-cooked Xinjiang Hui Muslim flavor in Beijing.
A while ago, I heard that a new Xinjiang Hui Muslim family restaurant called One Yellow Carrot (Yige Huangluobo) opened in 798. It is also run by two Xinjiang sisters, with their mother as the head chef. I went to try it on the weekend. The place was packed, and we had to wait for a few tables to clear before we could get in. The service was great. The owner was very enthusiastic and introduced the dishes to every table.
We ordered tiger skin peppers (hupi lazi), cold starch noodles (liangpizi), meatball soup (wanzi tang), pearl meatballs (zhenzhu wanzi), and beef stew (niurou huicai). The best thing they make is the meatballs; they taste exactly like the ones made at home. The meatball soup (wanzi tang) was good overall, but the biggest problem was that the broth was too clear. At first, I suspected it was just plain water, but I asked the staff and they confirmed it was beef bone broth. I feel it hadn't been simmered long enough to bring out the flavor. Also, they only give you one steamed oil flower roll (youtazi) and you cannot buy them separately. While I understand that many Beijingers might not want to eat oil flower rolls (youtazi), there are people like us who grew up with Xinjiang flavors and feel that meatball soup (wanzi tang) must be paired with a few of them.
The cold starch noodles (liangpizi) were also quite good. The sauce is probably the best-seasoned one in Beijing. Anyone who has eaten the three cold dishes (sanliang) at a Hui Muslim place in Xinjiang would recognize that their sauce is very authentic. However, I still think a hot sauce has more flavor.
The pearl meatballs (zhenzhu wanzi) and beef stew (niurou huicai) were different from how we make them at home. Of course, I am used to the Hui Muslim style from the Saybagh District in Urumqi, and Hui Muslim cooking styles vary across Xinjiang. The pearl meatballs (zhenzhu wanzi) were a bit loose and fell apart as soon as I picked them up. I feel they should be firmer. The meatballs and beef in the beef stew (niurou huicai) were quite good, and the spicy pepper skins (lapi zi) were very authentic. They were extremely spicy, though, so friends (dosti) who cannot handle heat might struggle.
Overall, I am very happy that Beijing has another Xinjiang Hui Muslim family restaurant. I hope they continue to do well. Congratulations.
Liaoning Hui Muslim spicy hot pot (malatang).
After work, I went to a spicy hot pot (malatang) shop run by a Liaoning Hui Muslim family at Chaowai SOHO. They have spicy hot pot (malatang), spicy mixed noodles (malaban), deep-fried skewers (zhachuan), mixed cold noodles (ban lengmian), and also sell seaweed rice rolls (zicai baofan). They mainly serve takeout for the office workers upstairs, and the dine-in area is very small.
The spicy hot pot (malatang) has that old-fashioned Northeast style with a thick sesame paste flavor. It is salty and sweet, which I really like. The deep-fried skewers (zhachuan) are sprinkled with a dry seasoning of cumin, sesame, and salt. The chicken and sausages were delicious, but the fried lotus root was a bit dry and hard. The mixed cold noodles have a good texture, but they are warm instead of cold, which I don't really like. I ended up packing the seaweed rice rolls (gimbap) to eat at the office the next day at noon.
Hui Muslim meat pie (roubing) and braised noodles (yimian) at Liaoyuan in Daming, Hebei.
Hui Muslim steamed dumplings (shaomai) at the Dongtucheng branch in Chengde, Hebei.
After work, I went to the newly opened Chengde steamed dumpling restaurant, Dechengli, in Dongtucheng. Their Fengtai branch is larger and sells the eight big bowls (badawan) feast, while the Dongtucheng branch is smaller and focuses on steamed dumplings, steamed meat dumplings (zhengjiao), and the Chengde specialty almond tea (xingrench).
The shop is run by a Hui Muslim couple from Chengde. They steam the dumplings and brew the almond tea to order in an open, clean, and bright kitchen. I used a group-buying deal for steamed dumplings with a side of vegetarian radish ball soup. The steamer comes with eight dumplings; the skins are thin and the filling is firm, almost like a meatball. The vegetarian radish balls are also very good. The almond tea is six yuan for a big bowl. It has a very rich almond flavor and tastes great.
Xilaisun Xisi branch.
A new Xilaisun opened at the entrance of Xisi Sixth Alley, so I finally don't have to run to the Hepingmen branch every time. However, the Xisi branch is quite small and has fewer dishes. The staff said if you want to eat dishes from the main store, you can call one day in advance to order.
We ordered the classic Ma Lianliang duck, roasted lamb (shaoyangrou), stir-stir-fried meat slices with fresh mushrooms, diced chicken with cashews, mixed wild mountain vegetables, and sesame paste sugar flatbread (majiang tangbing). We also ordered an extra portion of lotus leaf buns (heyebing). Ma Lianliang duck is my favorite. I think it tastes better than Beijing roast duck, and the leavened lotus leaf buns are much better than the thin pancakes served with roast duck. Their roasted lamb skin is a bit hard, but the flavor is very fragrant, and it tastes great tucked inside a lotus leaf bun. The diced chicken with cashews is a little salty, but very fresh. The mixed wild mountain vegetables are not salty and are fine to eat on their own. The stir-stir-fried meat slices with mushrooms are delicious and go well with both rice and lotus leaf buns. The children really like the sesame paste sugar flatbread.
In short, Xilaisun has always been a Beijing restaurant I highly recommend. If you are in the north and have a small group, like a few friends or a family of three, I recommend coming here. Friends in the south should still go to the Hepingmen branch for a wider variety of dishes.
Longfusi Market.
I went to the market at Longfu Mosque before the Spring Festival. I heard later that it became a permanent fixture, so I stopped by for a walk after work a while ago. Longfu Mosque has really turned into a pedestrian street now. There are security guards at every entrance to keep cars out, so you don't have to dodge traffic while walking around. The stalls in April are quite different from the ones in February. Coming in from the north, you'll find Longfu Mosque Snack Shop and Baikui. A bit further in is Wanhe Beef, and across from the main building entrance is Jinfang. To the east, by the entrance of the Donggong cinema, is Lianying Shaomai (steamed dumplings). The weather is warmer now, so it's easy to grab a snack outdoors after work. There are tables and chairs available.
Longfu Mosque Snack Shop and Baikui are right next to each other with four tables. I arrived after 5:00 p.m. and it wasn't crowded, but it was full by 6:00 p.m. I started with the ingot-shaped dumpling soup (yuanbao tang) and pea flour cake (wandouhuang) at Longfu Mosque Snack Shop. It tasted just like the regular shop. The dumplings are wrapped fresh. Then I had a fried chicken leg at Baikui. It tasted the same as the shop, but it wasn't freshly fried and was only lukewarm. The skin got tough after I heated it in the microwave.
After eating, I bought some mung bean milk (douzhi) at Jinfang. The bagged mung bean milk at Jinfang is their own brand, while the bottled version is from Jinxin. It's time to drink cold mung bean milk in the summer. My son really likes it.
I had a beef and cilantro roll on a hot plate and a meat burger (roujiamo) at Wanhe Beef on Longfu Mosque Street. It's a Lanzhou-style restaurant, and there are seats in front of the stall. The beef and cilantro roll was 4 yuan and quite tasty. The meat burger was also good, but at 15 yuan, it didn't have much meat, so it wasn't really worth it.
Mashi Muxiangyuan, a Hui Muslim restaurant from Suihua, Heilongjiang, at the Baizhifang branch.
A while ago, I ate at Mashi Muxiangyuan, a Hui Muslim restaurant from Suihua, Heilongjiang, in Fangzhuang. It tasted good and wasn't expensive. I recently heard they opened a new branch in Baizhifang, so a friend and I decided to go try it.
The new shop was busy. We ordered sweet and sour pork (guobaorou), pickled cabbage with vermicelli, stir-fried beef brisket (liu xiongkou), and dry-braised sea bass. The sweet and sour pork was appetizing, though the crust was a bit hard. Overall, it was okay. The pickled cabbage with vermicelli was the best. At 28 yuan, it was a good price and went perfectly with rice. We almost finished it as soon as it arrived. The dry-braised sea bass was also delicious. It was well-seasoned and had very few bones. I have to criticize the stir-fried beef brisket. The portion was small, so they added a lot of large onion chunks to fill the plate. That was unnecessary. I've never had it served with that many onions when eating in Northeast China. If the portion is small, they should just use a smaller plate.
Because it was so crowded, we waited a long time for our food, so the restaurant gave us complimentary yogurt and lamb liver with garlic sauce. Their lamb liver was quite good. It didn't have any gamey smell at all and tasted great even on its own. I have to give them credit for that.
Tianshan, a Uyghur restaurant from Turpan.
I used to go to those Uyghur restaurants on the upper street of Ritan Park every time I took my child there for a walk. I decided to try somewhere new this time, so I went to Tianshan Restaurant near Xiushui Street. It is actually not far from Ritan Park, but I rarely go that way, so this was my first time eating there.
The owner is a Uyghur from Turpan and is very welcoming. We ordered big plate chicken (dapanji), mixed noodles with long beans (jiangdou banmian), spinach with gluten (bocai mianjin), and grilled meat skewers (kaorou). Overall, it was quite authentic. I watched them pull the noodles in the open kitchen; they were very chewy and on the firmer side, which my son loved so much he ate a lot by himself. The long bean dish was also great. The sauce tasted just right, and the meat was firm and chewy, not like the soft, soggy kind that has been marinated too long. The grilled meat skewers were very tender, which the kids especially liked. The big plate chicken was just okay. It used standard broiler chicken, but the flavor was decent. The spinach with gluten is hard to find in Beijing, and it was sour and very appetizing. The Uyghur style is a bit oilier; Hui Muslim families from Xinjiang usually use less oil when they cook.
Niujie Cafe Sanwanghu.
Heilongjiang Hui Muslim Iron Pot Stew.
Last Sunday afternoon, I took my son to Madian Park to play on the slides and burn off some energy, then we went to eat at Uncle Oyster's Iron Pot Stew (Haoshu Tieguodun) in Jiandemen. The big rooster set meal is a great value. It includes half a chicken, cabbage, vermicelli, potatoes, three cornmeal flatbreads (tiebingzi), and a plate of smashed cucumber, plus they gave the kid some milk skin yogurt (naipizi suannai) for free.
After the pot arrives, you stick the flatbreads on the side first, then set a timer for 15 minutes. When the time is up, you open the pot, add the vermicelli, and set another 5-minute timer before it is ready to eat. The saltiness is suited for Northern tastes. If you are from the South, you can tell the staff to make it lighter. We asked for it to be lighter because of my son, and he didn't find it too salty. The portion size of the set meal is plenty; it is just right for two adults.
They also have noodle lotus root (mianou), which was my first time trying. I looked it up and it is popular in Shandong and Henan. It is basically tube-shaped gluten made from wheat flour, and it is very chewy. The usual way to serve it is with sesame paste and garlic. They make it with a very strong garlic flavor, which really brings out the taste.
Part 1: 10 Halal restaurants in Beijing worth trying: Pakistani restaurant Lahore Courtyard, Henan Jiaozuo beef knife-cut noodles Mai Mai Hong, Halal Mongolian food Hulun Aile, West African Ghana Tribe Garden, Xi'an Xing Laosi meatball spicy soup, Xinjiang Changji Jinying meatball soup, Xinjiang Hotan Canteen, Syrian BRBR, Beijing fusion food Gulou Eating Noodles, and Beijing traditional food Xilai Shun.
Part 2: 10 Halal restaurants in Beijing worth trying (Part 2): UAE restaurant Gulf Mandi, Xinjiang Mansion Xihan Meatball Soup, Xinjiang Mansion Lobby Altai Afternoon Tea, Muhejia Rotating Hot Pot, Xinjiang Urumqi Nazilan (closed), Beijing pastry shop Baoyuanzhai (closed), Pakistani Samosa China-Pakistan Friendship Restaurant, Master Ma's Roast Duck (closed), Bangladeshi Benjibi Restaurant, and Huairou Shihu Cheng Resort.
Part 3: 10 recently tried Beijing restaurant recommendations: JM Italian Coffee Dongsi Branch, Halal Hunan food Huixiangyun Stir-fry Wangjing Branch (closed), Shandong Dezhou Old Ma's Lamb Soup and Steamed Dumplings, Sanlitun Philly Cheesesteak, Pakistani Roma Restaurant, Muyuzhai Rotten Garlic Lamb Intestines, Inner Mongolia Lianying Shaomai Grassland Pomegranate Red, Wangfujing Gansu Spicy Hot Pot, and Yuezhen Yayuan Halal Courtyard Restaurant.
Part 4: 10 Halal restaurants in Beijing worth trying (Part 4): Hotan Rose Pilaf Yizhuang Branch, Taiba Western Bakery, Taiba South Sanlitun Road Street Shop, Zhaotong Small Meat Skewers Guijie Ganmaya BBQ (closed), Bai Xiaobei Heilongjiang BBQ, Yunnan Muwenzhai Dry Pot Beef, Sanlitun Xinjiang restaurant Jiangjiang, Huixiangyun Halal Hunan Restaurant Zuojiazhuang Branch, Yili Ice Cream Shop Bazaar Sweetheart, and Dongzhimen Inner Street Qianyuan Hotel.
Part 5: 10 halal restaurants in Beijing worth trying (Part 5). Sandyq Kazakh Restaurant, Kashgar Restaurant, Ahmed Restaurant, Jingbalang Naan Bazaar, MacMac Lebanese Restaurant, Humaer Xinjiang Specialty Food, Lao Huihui Dumpling Restaurant (Zoo branch), Fresh Milk Town (Shuangjing branch, now closed), Nawab Restaurant, and Liu's Watch Repair and Barbecue.
Part 6: 10 halal restaurants in Beijing worth trying (Part 6). Hongyunlou Huaiyang Cuisine, Sanhe Beef Noodles (now closed), JM Coffee and Bakery (Daji Lane branch), Wanhe Fatty Beef, Xiangqing Roast Duck (now closed), Culture Pakistani Restaurant, Firenze Italian Restaurant, Niujie Dashuntang, Zhenweizhai Tianjin Cuisine, and Dardanelles Kids' Meal.
Part 7: 10 halal restaurants in Beijing worth trying (Part 7). JM Western Restaurant (Chaonei branch), Rose City Palestinian Restaurant, Baoding beef cover pancake (niurou zhaobing), Al Rayyan Pakistani Restaurant, Yili Loulan Restaurant (Guijie branch), Dianxinyuan Yunnan Cuisine, Muxiangyuan Heilongjiang Suihua Restaurant, Sanli Tun Turkish Restaurant, Chaoyangmen fast food stall, and Habibi Pakistani buffet. Collapse Read »
Best Halal Hainanese Food in Malaysia, Singapore and Brunei: Chicken Rice, Kopitiam and Nanyang Cafes
Reposted from the web
Summary: This halal Hainanese food guide follows the first half of a trip through Malaysia, Singapore, and Brunei, covering chicken rice, kopitiam cafes, noodles, seafood, and Nanyang-style Muslim-friendly restaurants.
Malaysia
The Chicken Rice Shop in Kuala Lumpur
Oriental Kopi at Kuala Lumpur Airport
Hua Mui Restaurant in Johor Bahru
Yut Loy Coffee Shop in Kuala Kangsar
Sin Hua Air-Conditioned Restaurant in Kota Bharu
Fook Yuen Coffee Shop in Kota Kinabalu
Yit Chang Coffee Shop in Kota Kinabalu
Yee Fung Coffee Shop in Kota Kinabalu
Ling Long Seafood in Kuching
Rex Restaurant in Singapore
Ying Chew Restaurant in Brunei
Babu's Kitchen in Brunei
Mei Guang Coffee Shop in Brunei
Malaysia
The Chicken Rice Shop in Kuala Lumpur
After getting off the plane at Kuala Lumpur Airport, we take the airport express train to the final stop, KL Sentral. Once we go upstairs, we are at the Nu Sentral shopping mall. We eat there almost every time we visit Kuala Lumpur. There are many types of restaurants in the mall. There are three halal Nyonya cuisine restaurants alone, and many other halal Chinese restaurants.
This time, we ate at the famous halal Hainanese chicken rice chain in Malaysia, The Chicken Rice Shop. The founder, Wong Kah Bee, was once an executive director at KFC Malaysia. She had worked in the fast-food industry for 25 years before starting her own business. In 2000, 54-year-old Wong Kah Bee and her daughter, Wong Jia Lian, opened the first The Chicken Rice Shop in Taipan, Selangor, officially launching their halal Hainanese chicken rice brand.
Wong Kah Bee's parents were from Penang and her grandmother was from Hainan. She loved Hainanese chicken rice very much since she was a child. During the 20th century, Hainanese chicken rice was mostly sold at food stalls, and almost none of it was halal. When Wong Kah Bee and her daughter started the business, they had a clear goal: to bring Hainanese chicken rice into shopping malls with clean, comfortable, and independent storefronts suitable for family meals, and to make it halal food for everyone. Today, The Chicken Rice Shop has 135 locations, making it the largest halal Hainanese chicken rice chain in Malaysia. Led by them, halal Chinese food is growing in Malaysia, allowing friends (dosti) from all over the world to enjoy delicious Chinese cuisine here.
We ordered a set meal for three, which included Nyonya top hats (pai tee), mango salad, roasted chicken, Hainanese curry chicken, okra, wolf herring fish balls (sai tou yu wan), and rice. We also ordered an extra side of roasted tofu, which was perfect for our family. Top hats (pai tee) are a classic snack for weddings and New Year celebrations among the Peranakan Chinese in Malaysia. They originated in Singapore, where they are also called little gold cups (xiao jin bei), and are filled with shredded carrots and white radishes. Wolf herring fish balls (sai tou yu wan) are Teochew-style fish balls made from wolf herring, and they are very popular in Malaysia.
Oriental Kopi at Kuala Lumpur Airport
Taking a car from Malacca back to Kuala Lumpur Airport, the most popular restaurant at Terminal 2 is the Hainanese coffee shop chain Oriental Kopi (huayang). There is almost always a line whenever you go.
They have a huge variety of dishes and are currently one of the most famous halal Hainanese coffee shops. Hainanese people began immigrating to Malaysia in the 19th century. Many early immigrants worked as chefs and servers in British hotels and restaurants, while some worked as servants for British officers. Influenced by their British employers, the Hainanese learned to cook Western food and combined it with Hainanese culinary elements to create the unique Hainanese coffee shop (Hailam Kopitiam) culture.
We ordered flaky egg tarts, pineapple buns with butter (bing huo bo luo bao), Hainanese chicken rice, classic mee siam, curry fish balls, coffee, soy milk with grass jelly, and longan sea coconut sweet soup (tang shui). The coffee, flaky egg tarts, and pineapple buns with butter are known as the 'Oriental Kopi Three Treasures' and make a classic Nanyang breakfast combination. Their flaky egg tarts are indeed well-made, with a very tender egg custard and a rich aroma. Their sweet soup (tang shui) is also delicious. We rarely drank sweet soup in the north, so it felt very authentic to the Nanyang style.
However, their Hainanese chicken rice was not good. The quality of the rice seemed poor, and it felt gritty, lacking the texture of rice at other places.
Hua Mui Restaurant in Johor Bahru
We took the train from Woodlands, Singapore, in the morning and arrived at the Johor Bahru station in Malaysia in 5 minutes. We walked from the Johor Bahru station to the old town to visit Restoran Hua Mui to experience an authentic Hainanese coffee shop (Hailam Kopitiam).
Restoran Hua Mui opened in 1946 and has a 78-year history, making it the oldest Hainanese coffee shop in Johor Bahru. Like many old-school Hainanese coffee shops in Malaysia, although the owner is Hainanese Chinese, they hire Malay chefs and staff so that Chinese, Malay, and Indian customers can all enjoy the food.
The term coffee shop (kopitiam) is made up of the Malay word 'kopi' (coffee) and the Hokkien word 'tiam' (shop), specializing in charcoal-grilled toast, white coffee, and soft-boiled eggs. Early Hainanese coffee shops were very popular with the British. Today, they have become places where older people discuss news and daily life, serving as important social hubs.
At Hua Mui, we ordered mutton stew rice, Hainanese noodles, coffee and tea mix (cham c), and a breakfast platter. Coffee and tea mix (cham c) is just coffee, tea, and milk. The restaurant's setting is still very traditional, with a classic two-story arcade building (qilou) and bamboo curtains hanging on the doors and windows, easily bringing to mind the old days.
Yut Loy Coffee Shop in Kuala Kangsar
Taking the train north from Ipoh, it is a 30-minute ride to Kuala Kangsar District. Kuala Kangsar has been the royal city of the Sultan of Perak since the 18th century. The town center still keeps an old street of arcade buildings, where you can find an old-school Hainanese coffee shop called Yut Loy Coffee Shop (Yue Lai Cha Shi). The Hainanese owner hires Malay staff here, allowing the three major ethnic groups—Chinese, Malay, and Indian—to all dine in the shop.
Since Yut Loy Coffee Shop only serves main meals after 1:00 PM, we spent the morning there having coffee with toast, topped with honey and butter. In Nanyang-themed novels, I often read about old people sitting in these Hainanese coffee shops all morning with a cup of coffee, a piece of toast, and a newspaper. This time, we got to experience it ourselves.
Sin Hua Air-Conditioned Restaurant in Kota Bharu
Hainanese people are an important part of the Chinese community in Kelantan. We ate at the Sin Hua Air-Conditioned Restaurant, a long-standing Hainanese eatery in Kota Bharu with over 50 years of history. We had Hainanese chicken chop, Hainanese noodles, and toasted bread, all of which are authentic Nanyang Hainanese dishes. Next door, there is also a Sin Shing Coffee Shop (Xin Cheng Cha Can Shi), which is said to have the best Hainanese chicken rice in Kota Bharu.
Fook Yuen Coffee Shop in Kota Kinabalu
Although there are many Hakka and Hokkien people on Gaya Street in Kota Kinabalu, the restaurants are still mostly run by Hainanese people. I started my morning with breakfast at Fook Yuen Coffee Shop (Fuyuan Cha Canting), which is very popular and crowded with tourists. Ordering is semi-self-service. They offer Cantonese-style congee and dim sum, Malay coconut milk rice (nasi lemak), and Western-style bread and coffee, meeting the needs of all ethnic groups in Malaysia. I had a serving of Hainanese chicken rice, two portions of steamed dumplings (shaomai), and a glass of iced milk tea. Their chicken rice is a modified version; they add dried small fish to the rice, a style that should be more popular with Malay customers.
Yit Chang Coffee Shop in Kota Kinabalu
Opened in 1896, Yee Fung Coffee Shop (Yue Chang Cha Shi) is the oldest Hainanese restaurant in Kota Kinabalu, with a history even longer than the city itself. The shop was originally located at the headquarters of the British North Borneo Chartered Company on Gaya Island. After the settlement on the island was destroyed in 1898 by an anti-British uprising led by the indigenous leader Mat Salleh, the shop moved to its current location on Gaya Street. You could say Yee Fung Coffee Shop has witnessed the entire transformation of Kota Kinabalu. Old photos hang on their walls, including one from the 1960s showing Yee Fung Coffee Shop in the exact same spot as today.
The shop is divided into two sections, with the Hainanese owner personally making coffee and toasting bread. The owner is very enthusiastic, provides excellent service, and speaks great Korean, which helps him attract many Korean guests. Another stall invites Muslim sisters to make Hainanese beef offal noodles (niuzamian) and various Malay dishes, which is a major feature of traditional Hainanese coffee shops. To attract customers from all ethnic groups, they must make food that suits everyone's taste. This is why many long-standing Hainanese restaurants in Malaysia have been open for decades or even a century.
We ordered white coffee, three-layer coffee, monk fruit herbal tea (luohanguo liangcha), oats, toast, and beef offal noodles. Monk fruit herbal tea and barley water (yimi shui) are really perfect for the weather here.
Yee Fung Coffee Shop in Kota Kinabalu
The most popular halal Chinese restaurant on Gaya Street in Kota Kinabalu is Yee Fung Tea House. The owner of Yee Fung Tea House, Zhuang Qiuwang, is from Johor. He started selling laksa on Gaya Street in 1984, which is exactly 40 years ago. Like many halal Chinese restaurants in Malaysia, they hire Muslim chefs and staff to ensure the ingredients are halal.
Their signature dishes are the "three treasures": laksa, claypot chicken rice, and beef offal. We ordered lettuce with oyster sauce, plain beef offal, plain fish balls, and chicken wonton noodles. Hainanese beef offal mainly includes beef balls, beef tripe, stewed beef, and beef slices. Many Hainanese restaurants in Kota Kinabalu serve it, and it is a major local specialty. Authentic Hainanese beef offal does not use MSG. It relies purely on spices to stew out the flavor, so you do not feel thirsty after eating it.
Ling Long Seafood in Kuching
I strongly recommend the Top Spot Food Court in the city center to friends (dosti) visiting Kuching. It is a Chinese halal seafood city with a Nanyang style. The food court is open from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. It looks like a very plain parking garage from the outside, but once you take the elevator to the top floor, you enter a very lively seafood open-air food court. Most of the stalls in the food court are Chinese-run with halal certifications. Various fish, shrimp, and vegetables are displayed openly, so you can pick whatever you want to eat.
We chose a stall called "Ling Long Seafood." The lady who took our order is Hainanese. Hainanese people running halal Chinese restaurants in Malaysia is also a major feature. The lady spoke great Mandarin and enthusiastically helped us order according to our needs. We ordered Sarawak-style stir-fried midin (a type of fern) with shrimp paste and stir-fried mani cai (a local vegetable) with eggs. Their stir-fried dishes come in small, medium, and large sizes, so even one person can eat very well.
Midin is a fern native to Borneo. It is not bitter at all when stir-fried and has a very fresh fragrance. Mani cai, also known as star gooseberry leaves, is a wild vegetable that Sarawak Hakka people love to cook. You can find it in homes and small restaurants. The picked mani cai leaves must be crushed in water and drained to remove toxins, and the small stems must be picked out before stir-frying, so it is much more troublesome than other vegetables.
For seafood, we ordered lokan (white clams), sea shrimp, and seven-star grouper. The waiter told us which ones were the freshest and which were frozen. After we ordered, the food was indeed very delicious. Since this is a food court by the sea in the city center, I am not sure if other stalls overcharge, but I think this one offers good value for money. In the end, our five dishes, rice, and 6% sales tax cost 313 RMB in total. Small stir-fried dishes were 24 RMB each, a seven-star grouper was 148 RMB, though they have cheaper fish too. A plate of sea shrimp was 48 RMB, and a plate of clams was 40 RMB.
Rex Restaurant in Singapore
If you visit the National Museum of Singapore and Fort Canning Park, it is well worth going to the nearby MacKenzie Rex Restaurant to taste authentic halal Hainanese chicken rice. MacKenzie Rex Restaurant opened in 1966. It is the first and most famous halal Hainanese chicken rice restaurant in Singapore. The owner is a Hainanese Chinese who speaks good Mandarin and is happy to introduce dishes to guests. Besides Hainanese chicken rice, they are also good at making various home-style Chinese dishes, known in Singapore as Zi char (home-style stir-fry).
We ordered the classic chicken rice and five-spice meat rolls (Ngor Hiang per roll), plus stir-fried mixed vegetables and fish soup. Everything was delicious, and it was arguably the best meal of our Singapore trip. The best part of their chicken rice is not the chicken itself, but the rice steamed with chicken fat. You can eat it plain and never want to stop. The halal version of the five-spice meat roll adds five-spice powder to the chicken filling, which is then wrapped in bean curd skin and deep-fried. It is very fragrant when freshly fried.
Ying Chew Restaurant in Brunei
When traveling in Brunei, you must visit the most famous legendary Hainanese teahouse, Ying Chew (Yingzhou Hao).
The founder of Ying Chew, Han Qiongyuan, was from Wenchang, Hainan. During the Japanese invasion of China in 1939, 17-year-old Han Qiongyuan traveled to Southeast Asia and arrived in Brunei to work as a helper in his uncle's coffee shop. In 1946, Han Qiongyuan officially opened Ying Chew Teahouse, selling coffee, bread, and other food. It became widely known for its longevity bread (Roti Kuning). As the teahouse business grew, Han Qiongyuan expanded into real estate and led the construction of the Brunei Hainan Building. After 1993, Han Qiongyuan returned to his hometown every year to visit relatives and invested heavily there. He was awarded the title of 'Patriotic Hainanese' by Hainan Province three times.
Like many old-fashioned Nanyang Hainanese teahouses, they serve halal food and have Brunei halal certification, making them popular with all ethnic groups. They have a very rich variety of bread. The most classic sandwich breads come in four flavors: peanut, red bean paste, butter, and coconut. There are also peanut and kaya mix bread, cheese bread, yellow bread with kaya and butter, and French toast. You can add a fried egg and cheese, or order a soft-boiled egg on the side. Cakes include custard cakes, egg tarts, coconut tarts, red bean cakes, butter cakes, pandan cakes, and more. Western-style breads and pastries were learned by Hainanese people while working as kitchen helpers for the British in the 19th century. Today, they have become a classic part of Nanyang Hainanese restaurants.
Besides bread and pastries, they also have various noodles, such as sesame flat rice noodles (guotiao), dry-tossed noodles, stir-fried noodles, Hainanese noodles, stir-fried rice vermicelli, and silky egg flat rice noodles (hefen). These suit Chinese tastes very well. We ordered silky egg flat rice noodles, sesame flat rice noodles, egg tarts, custard cakes, yellow bread with fried egg, chicken curry puffs, peanut and kaya mix bread, ginger milk tea, and lemon tea for a mix of Chinese and Western flavors. The peanut and kaya mix bread contains kaya jam, butter, and crushed peanuts, giving it a very rich texture. The sesame rice noodles (zhima guotiao) are a mix of sweet, salty, and spicy, served with fried tofu and fried fish chunks. They are a signature dish at this shop.
Babu's Kitchen in Brunei
We had lunch in the old town of Brunei Town. There are many Chinese-owned shops here, and it is also a great place to find halal Hainanese restaurants. We chose a place called Babu's Kitchen. It was very busy at lunchtime with Chinese, Malay, and Indian customers, which is a classic scene at a Hainanese restaurant. Since they did not have a Chinese menu, we asked the owner to recommend dishes. We ordered the Assam fish fillets, salted egg fried mushrooms, beef yee mee noodles, and bean curd skin with tofu and chicken. Just like in Malaysia, the Chinese people in Brunei speak very standard Mandarin. Overall, the food was very good. It blends Chinese cooking with Malay flavors, but it is still very easy for Chinese people to enjoy.
Collapse Read »
Summary: This halal Hainanese food guide follows the first half of a trip through Malaysia, Singapore, and Brunei, covering chicken rice, kopitiam cafes, noodles, seafood, and Nanyang-style Muslim-friendly restaurants.
Malaysia
The Chicken Rice Shop in Kuala Lumpur
Oriental Kopi at Kuala Lumpur Airport
Hua Mui Restaurant in Johor Bahru
Yut Loy Coffee Shop in Kuala Kangsar
Sin Hua Air-Conditioned Restaurant in Kota Bharu
Fook Yuen Coffee Shop in Kota Kinabalu
Yit Chang Coffee Shop in Kota Kinabalu
Yee Fung Coffee Shop in Kota Kinabalu
Ling Long Seafood in Kuching
Rex Restaurant in Singapore
Ying Chew Restaurant in Brunei
Babu's Kitchen in Brunei
Mei Guang Coffee Shop in Brunei
Malaysia
The Chicken Rice Shop in Kuala Lumpur
After getting off the plane at Kuala Lumpur Airport, we take the airport express train to the final stop, KL Sentral. Once we go upstairs, we are at the Nu Sentral shopping mall. We eat there almost every time we visit Kuala Lumpur. There are many types of restaurants in the mall. There are three halal Nyonya cuisine restaurants alone, and many other halal Chinese restaurants.
This time, we ate at the famous halal Hainanese chicken rice chain in Malaysia, The Chicken Rice Shop. The founder, Wong Kah Bee, was once an executive director at KFC Malaysia. She had worked in the fast-food industry for 25 years before starting her own business. In 2000, 54-year-old Wong Kah Bee and her daughter, Wong Jia Lian, opened the first The Chicken Rice Shop in Taipan, Selangor, officially launching their halal Hainanese chicken rice brand.
Wong Kah Bee's parents were from Penang and her grandmother was from Hainan. She loved Hainanese chicken rice very much since she was a child. During the 20th century, Hainanese chicken rice was mostly sold at food stalls, and almost none of it was halal. When Wong Kah Bee and her daughter started the business, they had a clear goal: to bring Hainanese chicken rice into shopping malls with clean, comfortable, and independent storefronts suitable for family meals, and to make it halal food for everyone. Today, The Chicken Rice Shop has 135 locations, making it the largest halal Hainanese chicken rice chain in Malaysia. Led by them, halal Chinese food is growing in Malaysia, allowing friends (dosti) from all over the world to enjoy delicious Chinese cuisine here.
We ordered a set meal for three, which included Nyonya top hats (pai tee), mango salad, roasted chicken, Hainanese curry chicken, okra, wolf herring fish balls (sai tou yu wan), and rice. We also ordered an extra side of roasted tofu, which was perfect for our family. Top hats (pai tee) are a classic snack for weddings and New Year celebrations among the Peranakan Chinese in Malaysia. They originated in Singapore, where they are also called little gold cups (xiao jin bei), and are filled with shredded carrots and white radishes. Wolf herring fish balls (sai tou yu wan) are Teochew-style fish balls made from wolf herring, and they are very popular in Malaysia.
Oriental Kopi at Kuala Lumpur Airport
Taking a car from Malacca back to Kuala Lumpur Airport, the most popular restaurant at Terminal 2 is the Hainanese coffee shop chain Oriental Kopi (huayang). There is almost always a line whenever you go.
They have a huge variety of dishes and are currently one of the most famous halal Hainanese coffee shops. Hainanese people began immigrating to Malaysia in the 19th century. Many early immigrants worked as chefs and servers in British hotels and restaurants, while some worked as servants for British officers. Influenced by their British employers, the Hainanese learned to cook Western food and combined it with Hainanese culinary elements to create the unique Hainanese coffee shop (Hailam Kopitiam) culture.
We ordered flaky egg tarts, pineapple buns with butter (bing huo bo luo bao), Hainanese chicken rice, classic mee siam, curry fish balls, coffee, soy milk with grass jelly, and longan sea coconut sweet soup (tang shui). The coffee, flaky egg tarts, and pineapple buns with butter are known as the 'Oriental Kopi Three Treasures' and make a classic Nanyang breakfast combination. Their flaky egg tarts are indeed well-made, with a very tender egg custard and a rich aroma. Their sweet soup (tang shui) is also delicious. We rarely drank sweet soup in the north, so it felt very authentic to the Nanyang style.
However, their Hainanese chicken rice was not good. The quality of the rice seemed poor, and it felt gritty, lacking the texture of rice at other places.
Hua Mui Restaurant in Johor Bahru
We took the train from Woodlands, Singapore, in the morning and arrived at the Johor Bahru station in Malaysia in 5 minutes. We walked from the Johor Bahru station to the old town to visit Restoran Hua Mui to experience an authentic Hainanese coffee shop (Hailam Kopitiam).
Restoran Hua Mui opened in 1946 and has a 78-year history, making it the oldest Hainanese coffee shop in Johor Bahru. Like many old-school Hainanese coffee shops in Malaysia, although the owner is Hainanese Chinese, they hire Malay chefs and staff so that Chinese, Malay, and Indian customers can all enjoy the food.
The term coffee shop (kopitiam) is made up of the Malay word 'kopi' (coffee) and the Hokkien word 'tiam' (shop), specializing in charcoal-grilled toast, white coffee, and soft-boiled eggs. Early Hainanese coffee shops were very popular with the British. Today, they have become places where older people discuss news and daily life, serving as important social hubs.
At Hua Mui, we ordered mutton stew rice, Hainanese noodles, coffee and tea mix (cham c), and a breakfast platter. Coffee and tea mix (cham c) is just coffee, tea, and milk. The restaurant's setting is still very traditional, with a classic two-story arcade building (qilou) and bamboo curtains hanging on the doors and windows, easily bringing to mind the old days.
Yut Loy Coffee Shop in Kuala Kangsar
Taking the train north from Ipoh, it is a 30-minute ride to Kuala Kangsar District. Kuala Kangsar has been the royal city of the Sultan of Perak since the 18th century. The town center still keeps an old street of arcade buildings, where you can find an old-school Hainanese coffee shop called Yut Loy Coffee Shop (Yue Lai Cha Shi). The Hainanese owner hires Malay staff here, allowing the three major ethnic groups—Chinese, Malay, and Indian—to all dine in the shop.
Since Yut Loy Coffee Shop only serves main meals after 1:00 PM, we spent the morning there having coffee with toast, topped with honey and butter. In Nanyang-themed novels, I often read about old people sitting in these Hainanese coffee shops all morning with a cup of coffee, a piece of toast, and a newspaper. This time, we got to experience it ourselves.
Sin Hua Air-Conditioned Restaurant in Kota Bharu
Hainanese people are an important part of the Chinese community in Kelantan. We ate at the Sin Hua Air-Conditioned Restaurant, a long-standing Hainanese eatery in Kota Bharu with over 50 years of history. We had Hainanese chicken chop, Hainanese noodles, and toasted bread, all of which are authentic Nanyang Hainanese dishes. Next door, there is also a Sin Shing Coffee Shop (Xin Cheng Cha Can Shi), which is said to have the best Hainanese chicken rice in Kota Bharu.
Fook Yuen Coffee Shop in Kota Kinabalu
Although there are many Hakka and Hokkien people on Gaya Street in Kota Kinabalu, the restaurants are still mostly run by Hainanese people. I started my morning with breakfast at Fook Yuen Coffee Shop (Fuyuan Cha Canting), which is very popular and crowded with tourists. Ordering is semi-self-service. They offer Cantonese-style congee and dim sum, Malay coconut milk rice (nasi lemak), and Western-style bread and coffee, meeting the needs of all ethnic groups in Malaysia. I had a serving of Hainanese chicken rice, two portions of steamed dumplings (shaomai), and a glass of iced milk tea. Their chicken rice is a modified version; they add dried small fish to the rice, a style that should be more popular with Malay customers.
Yit Chang Coffee Shop in Kota Kinabalu
Opened in 1896, Yee Fung Coffee Shop (Yue Chang Cha Shi) is the oldest Hainanese restaurant in Kota Kinabalu, with a history even longer than the city itself. The shop was originally located at the headquarters of the British North Borneo Chartered Company on Gaya Island. After the settlement on the island was destroyed in 1898 by an anti-British uprising led by the indigenous leader Mat Salleh, the shop moved to its current location on Gaya Street. You could say Yee Fung Coffee Shop has witnessed the entire transformation of Kota Kinabalu. Old photos hang on their walls, including one from the 1960s showing Yee Fung Coffee Shop in the exact same spot as today.
The shop is divided into two sections, with the Hainanese owner personally making coffee and toasting bread. The owner is very enthusiastic, provides excellent service, and speaks great Korean, which helps him attract many Korean guests. Another stall invites Muslim sisters to make Hainanese beef offal noodles (niuzamian) and various Malay dishes, which is a major feature of traditional Hainanese coffee shops. To attract customers from all ethnic groups, they must make food that suits everyone's taste. This is why many long-standing Hainanese restaurants in Malaysia have been open for decades or even a century.
We ordered white coffee, three-layer coffee, monk fruit herbal tea (luohanguo liangcha), oats, toast, and beef offal noodles. Monk fruit herbal tea and barley water (yimi shui) are really perfect for the weather here.
Yee Fung Coffee Shop in Kota Kinabalu
The most popular halal Chinese restaurant on Gaya Street in Kota Kinabalu is Yee Fung Tea House. The owner of Yee Fung Tea House, Zhuang Qiuwang, is from Johor. He started selling laksa on Gaya Street in 1984, which is exactly 40 years ago. Like many halal Chinese restaurants in Malaysia, they hire Muslim chefs and staff to ensure the ingredients are halal.
Their signature dishes are the "three treasures": laksa, claypot chicken rice, and beef offal. We ordered lettuce with oyster sauce, plain beef offal, plain fish balls, and chicken wonton noodles. Hainanese beef offal mainly includes beef balls, beef tripe, stewed beef, and beef slices. Many Hainanese restaurants in Kota Kinabalu serve it, and it is a major local specialty. Authentic Hainanese beef offal does not use MSG. It relies purely on spices to stew out the flavor, so you do not feel thirsty after eating it.
Ling Long Seafood in Kuching
I strongly recommend the Top Spot Food Court in the city center to friends (dosti) visiting Kuching. It is a Chinese halal seafood city with a Nanyang style. The food court is open from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. It looks like a very plain parking garage from the outside, but once you take the elevator to the top floor, you enter a very lively seafood open-air food court. Most of the stalls in the food court are Chinese-run with halal certifications. Various fish, shrimp, and vegetables are displayed openly, so you can pick whatever you want to eat.
We chose a stall called "Ling Long Seafood." The lady who took our order is Hainanese. Hainanese people running halal Chinese restaurants in Malaysia is also a major feature. The lady spoke great Mandarin and enthusiastically helped us order according to our needs. We ordered Sarawak-style stir-fried midin (a type of fern) with shrimp paste and stir-fried mani cai (a local vegetable) with eggs. Their stir-fried dishes come in small, medium, and large sizes, so even one person can eat very well.
Midin is a fern native to Borneo. It is not bitter at all when stir-fried and has a very fresh fragrance. Mani cai, also known as star gooseberry leaves, is a wild vegetable that Sarawak Hakka people love to cook. You can find it in homes and small restaurants. The picked mani cai leaves must be crushed in water and drained to remove toxins, and the small stems must be picked out before stir-frying, so it is much more troublesome than other vegetables.
For seafood, we ordered lokan (white clams), sea shrimp, and seven-star grouper. The waiter told us which ones were the freshest and which were frozen. After we ordered, the food was indeed very delicious. Since this is a food court by the sea in the city center, I am not sure if other stalls overcharge, but I think this one offers good value for money. In the end, our five dishes, rice, and 6% sales tax cost 313 RMB in total. Small stir-fried dishes were 24 RMB each, a seven-star grouper was 148 RMB, though they have cheaper fish too. A plate of sea shrimp was 48 RMB, and a plate of clams was 40 RMB.
Rex Restaurant in Singapore
If you visit the National Museum of Singapore and Fort Canning Park, it is well worth going to the nearby MacKenzie Rex Restaurant to taste authentic halal Hainanese chicken rice. MacKenzie Rex Restaurant opened in 1966. It is the first and most famous halal Hainanese chicken rice restaurant in Singapore. The owner is a Hainanese Chinese who speaks good Mandarin and is happy to introduce dishes to guests. Besides Hainanese chicken rice, they are also good at making various home-style Chinese dishes, known in Singapore as Zi char (home-style stir-fry).
We ordered the classic chicken rice and five-spice meat rolls (Ngor Hiang per roll), plus stir-fried mixed vegetables and fish soup. Everything was delicious, and it was arguably the best meal of our Singapore trip. The best part of their chicken rice is not the chicken itself, but the rice steamed with chicken fat. You can eat it plain and never want to stop. The halal version of the five-spice meat roll adds five-spice powder to the chicken filling, which is then wrapped in bean curd skin and deep-fried. It is very fragrant when freshly fried.
Ying Chew Restaurant in Brunei
When traveling in Brunei, you must visit the most famous legendary Hainanese teahouse, Ying Chew (Yingzhou Hao).
The founder of Ying Chew, Han Qiongyuan, was from Wenchang, Hainan. During the Japanese invasion of China in 1939, 17-year-old Han Qiongyuan traveled to Southeast Asia and arrived in Brunei to work as a helper in his uncle's coffee shop. In 1946, Han Qiongyuan officially opened Ying Chew Teahouse, selling coffee, bread, and other food. It became widely known for its longevity bread (Roti Kuning). As the teahouse business grew, Han Qiongyuan expanded into real estate and led the construction of the Brunei Hainan Building. After 1993, Han Qiongyuan returned to his hometown every year to visit relatives and invested heavily there. He was awarded the title of 'Patriotic Hainanese' by Hainan Province three times.
Like many old-fashioned Nanyang Hainanese teahouses, they serve halal food and have Brunei halal certification, making them popular with all ethnic groups. They have a very rich variety of bread. The most classic sandwich breads come in four flavors: peanut, red bean paste, butter, and coconut. There are also peanut and kaya mix bread, cheese bread, yellow bread with kaya and butter, and French toast. You can add a fried egg and cheese, or order a soft-boiled egg on the side. Cakes include custard cakes, egg tarts, coconut tarts, red bean cakes, butter cakes, pandan cakes, and more. Western-style breads and pastries were learned by Hainanese people while working as kitchen helpers for the British in the 19th century. Today, they have become a classic part of Nanyang Hainanese restaurants.
Besides bread and pastries, they also have various noodles, such as sesame flat rice noodles (guotiao), dry-tossed noodles, stir-fried noodles, Hainanese noodles, stir-fried rice vermicelli, and silky egg flat rice noodles (hefen). These suit Chinese tastes very well. We ordered silky egg flat rice noodles, sesame flat rice noodles, egg tarts, custard cakes, yellow bread with fried egg, chicken curry puffs, peanut and kaya mix bread, ginger milk tea, and lemon tea for a mix of Chinese and Western flavors. The peanut and kaya mix bread contains kaya jam, butter, and crushed peanuts, giving it a very rich texture. The sesame rice noodles (zhima guotiao) are a mix of sweet, salty, and spicy, served with fried tofu and fried fish chunks. They are a signature dish at this shop.
Babu's Kitchen in Brunei
We had lunch in the old town of Brunei Town. There are many Chinese-owned shops here, and it is also a great place to find halal Hainanese restaurants. We chose a place called Babu's Kitchen. It was very busy at lunchtime with Chinese, Malay, and Indian customers, which is a classic scene at a Hainanese restaurant. Since they did not have a Chinese menu, we asked the owner to recommend dishes. We ordered the Assam fish fillets, salted egg fried mushrooms, beef yee mee noodles, and bean curd skin with tofu and chicken. Just like in Malaysia, the Chinese people in Brunei speak very standard Mandarin. Overall, the food was very good. It blends Chinese cooking with Malay flavors, but it is still very easy for Chinese people to enjoy.
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Best Halal Food in Beijing: International Muslim Restaurants and Dining Guide (Part 2)
Reposted from the web
Summary: This second Beijing halal dining guide continues with international Muslim-friendly restaurants, Arab and Central Asian food, halal dining tips, and restaurant details from the original list.
48
One Thousand and One Nights Restaurant
This is arguably the first Arabic restaurant in Beijing and now has two locations. The decor features murals based on Arabic myths, and there is a dance performance every half hour during dinner. The performers are beautiful, and you can enjoy traditional Arabic food here, including foie gras. The yogurt lamb and spicy sesame sauce served with cedar bread (xuesongbing) are a perfect match.
Address: No. 6 Chaoyang Park Road, Solana, Chaoyang District
49
Haitianyise Chinese Restaurant
This is a high-end, elegant Chinese restaurant. It was my first time eating halal shark fin soup here, and they also serve expensive dishes like Buddha Jumps Over the Wall (fotiaoqiang). Seafood is the main theme of this restaurant. It is a bit pricey, but the taste is worth the money.
Address: No. 13 Guanzhuang Road, Chaoyang District
50
Changying Seafood Barbecue
I recommend this place because you can eat halal spicy crayfish here. Their small meat skewers are very delicate and quite delicious.
Address: Changying Middle Road, near Ziguangyuan, Chaoyang District
51
Gao Laosi Lamb Soup
It has not been open long, but it is very popular. The lamb soup is perfectly seasoned. Pair it with lamb trotters and sesame flatbread (shaobing) for a satisfying and filling meal.
Address: Inside the Home Inn courtyard, Guang'anmen Inner Street
52
Jingdong Meat Pie
The meat pie is crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. It differs from Old Yang's meat pie because the crust is flaky, but both are delicious.
Address: Inside the Home Inn courtyard, Guang'anmen Inner Street
53
Asiya Restaurant
This is a Xinjiang cuisine chain. The roasted lamb chops are their signature dish, and the fish and lamb stew (yuyangxian) is very fresh and tasty. The service is also good.
Address: No. 45A Fengtai North Road, Lize Bridge
54
Kaorouji
Beijing has three famous restaurants specializing in Beijing-style barbecue: Kaorouwan, Kaorouji, and Kaorouliuli. Kaorouji is the most popular because it sits in the busy Shichahai scenic area. The food is excellent, though the prices are a bit high.
Address
Qianhai East Bank, Shichahai, Xicheng District
55
Nanmen Shuanrou
This is a long-standing Beijing brand for copper pot hot pot (shuanrou). The interior is decorated like a traditional courtyard house (siheyuan), giving it a very authentic Beijing feel.
Address:
No. 1 Nanguanfang Hutong, Shichahai, Xicheng District
56
Qingxiangge Dalian Seafood
This is a large halal seafood restaurant chain with several locations in Beijing. Their abalone, oysters, and mackerel dumplings are popular. If you visit on your birthday, they give you a free bowl of longevity noodles.
Address: Next to Dongdaqiao Subway Station, Chaoyang District
57
Baiji Fanzhuang
This is an old-fashioned Beijing halal restaurant. Their small bowl of beef is stewed until it is very tender. They now serve copper pot hot pot, and you might even spot a minor celebrity comedian eating here.
Address: Opposite the Baiguang Road Shopping Mall, Xicheng District
58
Heqingzhai
Shunyi also has halal copper pot hot pot. The lamb from Inner Mongolia here has no gamey smell at all.
Address: Zuoti Road, near Shunmi Road, Shunyi District
59
Beijing University of Posts and Telecommunications Halal Canteen
You can get halal spicy dry pot (mala xiangguo) here. It tastes pretty good, but remember not to order their beef or lamb slices. Try it if you don't believe me.
Address:
No. 10 Xitucheng Road, Haidian District
60
Manhengji Hot Pot
This is another popular copper pot hot pot restaurant. Their stir-fried dishes are just as good, and they serve Beijing-style snacks and desserts. It is great value for money. I recommend the brown sugar flatbread (tangbing) at Manhengji.
Address:
No. 14 Ping'anli West Street, Xicheng District
61
Deyunxuan Lamb Spine Hot Pot
The taste is excellent, delicious and affordable. A special feature is that you can get free refills on the sour plum drink (suanmeitang).
Address: No. 10-35 Anlelin Road, Dongcheng District
62
Hongshenghao Charcoal Grilled Lamb Leg
You can grill the lamb leg yourself, or have the server grill and slice it for you. I think grilling it yourself is more fun. You can eat as you slice, which is both interesting and delicious.
Address: Left side of the main entrance of the Health College, Nanheng West Street, Xicheng District
63
Nailao Wei
This is a famous Beijing snack shop serving palace-style cheese. There are many varieties, including almond, blueberry, and hawthorn. If it is your first time, the original flavor is the best.
Address:
Room 107, No. 202 Guang'anmen Inner Street, Xuanwu District (west side of Dazhong Electronics)
There are a few other restaurants I didn't take photos of:
64. Xi'an Restaurant: A time-honored brand that serves authentic Xi'an pita bread in soup (paomo) as well as stir-fried dishes.
Address: 20 Xinjiekou South Street (opposite Xinjiekou Mall).
65. Donglaishun: It is very famous. The fresh lamb from Inner Mongolia is great, but the prices are among the highest for hot pot in Beijing.
Address: North of the Niujie intersection.
66. Xilaishun: This is a place for Beijing-style stir-fry dishes, and every dish is a classic.
Address: 116 North Xinhua Street, Hepingmen.
67. Nanlaishun: They specialize in halal snacks. I like their offal soup (zasui tang).
Address: 2nd Floor, 12 Nancaiyuan Street, Xicheng District.
That is all for this post. Please follow my personal official account. I will share more information on food, drinks, and fun activities from time to time. Collapse Read »
Summary: This second Beijing halal dining guide continues with international Muslim-friendly restaurants, Arab and Central Asian food, halal dining tips, and restaurant details from the original list.
48
One Thousand and One Nights Restaurant
This is arguably the first Arabic restaurant in Beijing and now has two locations. The decor features murals based on Arabic myths, and there is a dance performance every half hour during dinner. The performers are beautiful, and you can enjoy traditional Arabic food here, including foie gras. The yogurt lamb and spicy sesame sauce served with cedar bread (xuesongbing) are a perfect match.
Address: No. 6 Chaoyang Park Road, Solana, Chaoyang District
49
Haitianyise Chinese Restaurant
This is a high-end, elegant Chinese restaurant. It was my first time eating halal shark fin soup here, and they also serve expensive dishes like Buddha Jumps Over the Wall (fotiaoqiang). Seafood is the main theme of this restaurant. It is a bit pricey, but the taste is worth the money.
Address: No. 13 Guanzhuang Road, Chaoyang District
50
Changying Seafood Barbecue
I recommend this place because you can eat halal spicy crayfish here. Their small meat skewers are very delicate and quite delicious.
Address: Changying Middle Road, near Ziguangyuan, Chaoyang District
51
Gao Laosi Lamb Soup
It has not been open long, but it is very popular. The lamb soup is perfectly seasoned. Pair it with lamb trotters and sesame flatbread (shaobing) for a satisfying and filling meal.
Address: Inside the Home Inn courtyard, Guang'anmen Inner Street
52
Jingdong Meat Pie
The meat pie is crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. It differs from Old Yang's meat pie because the crust is flaky, but both are delicious.
Address: Inside the Home Inn courtyard, Guang'anmen Inner Street
53
Asiya Restaurant
This is a Xinjiang cuisine chain. The roasted lamb chops are their signature dish, and the fish and lamb stew (yuyangxian) is very fresh and tasty. The service is also good.
Address: No. 45A Fengtai North Road, Lize Bridge
54
Kaorouji
Beijing has three famous restaurants specializing in Beijing-style barbecue: Kaorouwan, Kaorouji, and Kaorouliuli. Kaorouji is the most popular because it sits in the busy Shichahai scenic area. The food is excellent, though the prices are a bit high.
Address
Qianhai East Bank, Shichahai, Xicheng District
55
Nanmen Shuanrou
This is a long-standing Beijing brand for copper pot hot pot (shuanrou). The interior is decorated like a traditional courtyard house (siheyuan), giving it a very authentic Beijing feel.
Address:
No. 1 Nanguanfang Hutong, Shichahai, Xicheng District
56
Qingxiangge Dalian Seafood
This is a large halal seafood restaurant chain with several locations in Beijing. Their abalone, oysters, and mackerel dumplings are popular. If you visit on your birthday, they give you a free bowl of longevity noodles.
Address: Next to Dongdaqiao Subway Station, Chaoyang District
57
Baiji Fanzhuang
This is an old-fashioned Beijing halal restaurant. Their small bowl of beef is stewed until it is very tender. They now serve copper pot hot pot, and you might even spot a minor celebrity comedian eating here.
Address: Opposite the Baiguang Road Shopping Mall, Xicheng District
58
Heqingzhai
Shunyi also has halal copper pot hot pot. The lamb from Inner Mongolia here has no gamey smell at all.
Address: Zuoti Road, near Shunmi Road, Shunyi District
59
Beijing University of Posts and Telecommunications Halal Canteen
You can get halal spicy dry pot (mala xiangguo) here. It tastes pretty good, but remember not to order their beef or lamb slices. Try it if you don't believe me.
Address:
No. 10 Xitucheng Road, Haidian District
60
Manhengji Hot Pot
This is another popular copper pot hot pot restaurant. Their stir-fried dishes are just as good, and they serve Beijing-style snacks and desserts. It is great value for money. I recommend the brown sugar flatbread (tangbing) at Manhengji.
Address:
No. 14 Ping'anli West Street, Xicheng District
61
Deyunxuan Lamb Spine Hot Pot
The taste is excellent, delicious and affordable. A special feature is that you can get free refills on the sour plum drink (suanmeitang).
Address: No. 10-35 Anlelin Road, Dongcheng District
62
Hongshenghao Charcoal Grilled Lamb Leg
You can grill the lamb leg yourself, or have the server grill and slice it for you. I think grilling it yourself is more fun. You can eat as you slice, which is both interesting and delicious.
Address: Left side of the main entrance of the Health College, Nanheng West Street, Xicheng District
63
Nailao Wei
This is a famous Beijing snack shop serving palace-style cheese. There are many varieties, including almond, blueberry, and hawthorn. If it is your first time, the original flavor is the best.
Address:
Room 107, No. 202 Guang'anmen Inner Street, Xuanwu District (west side of Dazhong Electronics)
There are a few other restaurants I didn't take photos of:
64. Xi'an Restaurant: A time-honored brand that serves authentic Xi'an pita bread in soup (paomo) as well as stir-fried dishes.
Address: 20 Xinjiekou South Street (opposite Xinjiekou Mall).
65. Donglaishun: It is very famous. The fresh lamb from Inner Mongolia is great, but the prices are among the highest for hot pot in Beijing.
Address: North of the Niujie intersection.
66. Xilaishun: This is a place for Beijing-style stir-fry dishes, and every dish is a classic.
Address: 116 North Xinhua Street, Hepingmen.
67. Nanlaishun: They specialize in halal snacks. I like their offal soup (zasui tang).
Address: 2nd Floor, 12 Nancaiyuan Street, Xicheng District.
That is all for this post. Please follow my personal official account. I will share more information on food, drinks, and fun activities from time to time. Collapse Read »
Best Halal Food in Beijing: Complete Muslim Dining Guide and Foreign Restaurants (Part 1)
Reposted from the web
Summary: This first Beijing halal dining guide lists classic Muslim restaurants, Niujie favorites, hot pot, noodles, roast duck, Xinjiang food, and foreign halal restaurants across the city.
1.
Jubaoyuan
I put Jubaoyuan first not because it is the best, as I do not rank them, but because it used to be closest to my home. Before the Niujie renovation, I lived in Shouliu Hutong right behind Jubaoyuan. Jubaoyuan is not an old Beijing brand. When I was a child, it was just a shop selling beef and mutton. Later, they started a hot pot business and became popular before anyone noticed. For those who have not been to the great Northwest and have not eaten authentic Northwest beef and mutton, Jubaoyuan tastes quite good. I recommend their small sesame flatbread (shaobing), which is crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. Because it is so popular, they now limit purchases to three per person. Before you come, be prepared to wait in line for at least an hour and a half. You might also encounter some stern-faced servers.
Address: No. 5-2 Niujie, Xuanwu District, Beijing
2.
Liankexuan Four Seasons Hot Pot (Liankexuan Siji Shuanrou)
If you think the wait at Jubaoyuan is too long, you can cross the street, walk south, and eat at Liankexuan. The restaurant is on the second floor. It is very large, so there are always empty seats whenever you go. The meat plates at Liankexuan are large. Two people with a normal appetite can finish one plate of meat and be full after adding some side dishes.
Address: 2nd Floor, Commercial Building, No. 20-22 Niujie, Xicheng District, Beijing
3.
Hongshunxuan
Hongshunxuan is a Beijing-style restaurant. The braised meat strips (ba routiao), stir-fried mutton with eggs and wood ear mushrooms (culiu muxu), braised oxtail (hongshao niuwei), sweet lamb dish (tasi mi), and candied yam and date rolls (tang juanguo) are all very authentic. You can also eat hot pot here, but I am not sure how it tastes.
Address: No. 3 Commercial Street, North Entrance of Niujie, Beijing
4.
Laochengyi Lamb Spine Hot Pot (Laochengyi Yangxiezi)
The lamb spine (yangxiezi) at Laochengyi is truly delicious. The lamb chops are stewed until very tender. The mouth-watering chicken (kou shui ji) is also a must-order dish. After finishing the lamb spine, you can cook other vegetables in the pot. The shop has two floors and plenty of seating, so even at meal times, the wait is not too long.
Address: No. 3 Commercial Street, North Entrance of Niujie, Beijing
5.
Mudelou
Mudelou's roast duck is excellent and requires a one-hour advance reservation. If you want halal roast duck, Mudelou is the top choice. They also have grilled fish. this restaurant is smoke-free and alcohol-free. During Ramadan, they also provide iftar meals for the elders at the mosque.
Address: No. 19 Jiaozihutong, Guang'anmen Inner Street, Xicheng District, Beijing (right next to the east gate of the Niujie Dongli community)
6.
Baodu Wai
Quick-boiled tripe (baodu) is a classic Beijing snack. Although this is a small shop specializing in tripe, I think their beef noodles are even better.
Does looking at these big chunks of beef make you hungry?
Address: No. 5, Fayuansi Xili, Jiaozihutong, Xicheng District, Beijing.
7.
Dashuntang
Dashuntang has been around for a long time. They make very authentic Beijing-style halal food. When families have special occasions, they usually choose Dashuntang first. Roasted lamb chops, boiled beef, deep-fried lamb tail, and roast duck are all very popular.
Address: No. 4A, Building 5, Fayuansi Xili, Jiaozihutong, Xicheng District, Beijing.
8.
Yang's Beef Pie (Yangji Niuroubing)
Old Yang makes great meat pies. They are limited each day and sell out after meal times. The beef and green onion flavor is the most popular. I can eat two at a time. Usually, when I am too lazy to cook, I buy them to take home. But the real treat is sitting on a stool at the door, eating a fresh pie right out of the pan with a bowl of millet porridge.
Address: No. 42-13, Jiaozihutong, Xicheng District, Beijing.
9.
Halal Spicy Hot Pot (Mala Tang)
I am introducing two halal spicy hot pot shops together. One is in Jiaozihutong on Niujie Street, and the other is at the south gate of Beijing Jiaotong University. Both have their own strengths. The Niujie shop uses more sesame paste, while the Jiaotong University shop uses more chili oil. Spicy hot pot in the Northwest region mainly uses chili oil, but both shops are delicious.
Address: Next to the fruit supermarket in Jiaozihutong, Xicheng District; Ma Jinlong is in the street-level shops at the south gate of Beijing Jiaotong University.
10.
Junlian Halal Dumpling Restaurant
This shop has all kinds of dumpling fillings, like pineapple or tomato. It is very popular, and you have to wait in line during meal times. My favorites are the traditional beef and green onion, or chive and egg dumplings.
Address: South Gate, Niujie Xili District 2, Xicheng District, Beijing.
11. Halal Bridge-Crossing Rice Noodles (Guoqiao Mixian)
There are two bridge-crossing rice noodle (guoqiao mixian) shops in the Niujie area. One is in Jiaozi Hutong next to the Old Yang Meat Pie (laoyang roubing) shop. The other is at the intersection of Nanheng West Street and You'anmen Inner Street. Both taste about the same, but I personally prefer the one on Nanheng West Street because it looks cleaner.
12. Shandong Big and Thick Pancake (Shandong shada cu jianbing)
I don't usually like pancakes, but I love the Shandong pancakes made by this big brother.
Address:
A row of storefronts on the west side of Jiaozi Hutong
13. Fried Sauce Noodles (zhajiangmian)
People often ask me where to find halal fried sauce noodles. Although people usually make them at home, there is a halal noodle shop across from the Hui Muslim Hospital where you can get them. The taste is decent.
14. Turpan Restaurant (Tulufan Canting)
The red willow skewer barbecue (hongliu kaorou) at Turpan Restaurant is worth recommending. You can also try the bamboo fungus soup (zhusun tang) and vegetarian chicken legs (sujitui). You need to order the whole roasted lamb (kao quanyang) in advance. The breakfast at Turpan Restaurant is the most popular and affordable. They serve sesame flatbread (shaobing), deep-fried dough sticks (youtiao), tofu pudding (doufunao), offal soup (zasui tang), steamed buns (baozi), and purple rice porridge. These are all common Beijing breakfast items. They are served before 9:00 AM, and you will need to wait in line.
Address: No. 6 Niujie, Xicheng District
15.
Fuxingte Halal Restaurant
This is a Beijing-style halal restaurant. The braised hairtail (hongshao daiyu) and stir-fried meat with chestnuts (lizi chaorou) are both delicious. The advantages are that it is not crowded and the prices are cheap.
Address: East side of Xinrong South Street, Daxing District, Beijing, near the Xihongmen Mosque.
16. Ziguangyuan
Ziguangyuan is also one of Beijing's time-honored brands with many chain locations. Their specialties are roast duck, stir-fried dough bits (chaogeda), and fried lamb tail (zha yangwei), which often sell out. Their breakfast is also good. My standard order is a sesame flatbread with meat (shaobing jiarou) paired with homemade yogurt.
Address: 300 meters east of the Old Bridge, Beimenkou Village, Majuqiao Town, Tongzhou District
17.
Hongbinlou
This is one of Beijing's high-end halal dining brands. It is a time-honored restaurant that Zhou Enlai invited to Beijing from Tianjin. The taste goes without saying. I recommend their dim sum. The price is a bit expensive; it costs about 500 for two people.
Address: No. 11 Zhanlanguan Road, Xicheng District, Beijing
18.
Yuanxie Shuanrou Restaurant
The flavor is very similar to Jubaoyuan, and even their sesame flatbreads are made just like Jubaoyuan's. The good thing is that there are no purchase limits and no lines. The owner is a Hui Muslim from Xinjiang who has lived in Beijing for many years and married a Beijing woman. The shop is spacious, the servers are warm and polite, and the prices are quite cheap. If you want to eat at Jubaoyuan but don't want to wait in line for two hours, you should come here instead.
Address: Nanxiaojie South Road, Fengtai District, Beijing.
19.
Zhangji Hot Pot (Zhangji Shuanrou)
The owner of Qianmen Zhangji Hot Pot is a Hui Muslim from Niujie. He spent six years in the Xinjiang Production and Construction Corps and is good friends with the owners of Jubaoyuan, Niangao Yang, and Nailao Wei. He is amazed at how famous Jubaoyuan has become in recent years and feels that traditional old Beijing culture is disappearing. The old gentleman is open-minded, funny, and humorous.
Address: 95 Meishi Street, Xicheng District, Beijing, near the Qianmen McDonald's.
20. Sijiqing Jinxiangquan Hot Pot Restaurant
The lamb comes from Inner Mongolia, and the restaurant's specialty is using Xiangshan spring water for the hot pot.
Address: West of Sijiqing Bridge, Haidian District (southwest corner of Nanpingzhuang intersection).
21. Changying Three Brothers
I am not sure if the tall guy calling out numbers at the door is one of the three brothers, but the line is just as long as at Jubaoyuan. The deep-fried meat strips (zha songrou) are delicious, the lamb brain (yang shangnao) is tender, and the prices are cheap. You can even get a discount if you don't ask for a receipt.
Address: Changying Middle Road, Chaoyang District.
22. Yanlanlou
Yanlanlou is a famous chain of Northwest Chinese restaurants in Beijing. It is a more upscale option with many branches across the city. I like their oxtail, and their beef noodles are also made with great care.
Address: Opposite the National Library.
23. Western Mahua
Western Mahua is my canteen. I have basically eaten every dish on their menu, and almost all of them suit my taste. Mahua Shifu claims to be a full-service halal restaurant, offering roast duck, hot pot, Sichuan cuisine, Cantonese cuisine, and Beijing cuisine.
Address: 2 Baijiazhuang Xili, Chaoyang District.
24. Dafengshou Fish Restaurant
The 3,000-square-meter flagship store of Dafengshou Fish Restaurant in Beijing is highly recommended for its river catfish (jiangtuan yu) hot pot and golden pepper fish pot. The golden pepper sauce is spicy and delicious, and you can even pack the peppers to take home. The Hezhou steamed buns (Hezhou baozi) are as popular as ever, the Lanzhou cold noodles (niangpi) and chive pockets (jiucai hezi) are very authentic, and the quail century eggs and hand-grabbed pancakes (shouzhuabing) are great for satisfying cravings.
Address: Basement level, Shaanxi Mansion, Panjiayuan, Chaoyang District.
25. Red willow skewer roasted lamb spine (hongliushu kao yangxiezi)
I have eaten the dry pot catfish (suobianyu) here and it tastes great. The catfish is fresh, tender, and has few bones. The environment is nice, and they also sell dry pot duck feet.
Address: Gongti East Road, Chaoyang District
26.
Urumqi Office in Beijing
If you want authentic Xinjiang barbecue in Beijing, you must come to the Urumqi Office in Beijing. This place is packed every day, and the pilaf (zhuafan) is usually sold out by 5:00 PM. Feel free to try the cold starch noodles (liangpizi), big plate chicken (dapanji), and hand-pulled noodles (latiaozi); you will be satisfied.
Address: Urumqi Office in Beijing, No. 1 Chegongzhuang Street North, Xicheng District, Beijing (North of the Five Buildings)
27.
Taste of Xinjiang Restaurant
I like this restaurant because the environment is quiet and the food tastes standard and reliable.
Address: Second floor of Aidinghu Business Club, No. 51 Wujiachang Road, Haidian District, Beijing.
28.
Xinjiang Bingtuan Restaurant
The stir-fried dough bits (chaogeda) and yogurt (suannai) here are must-order dishes. It is very popular and the taste is good. I like eating the baked buns (kaobaozi) and fried meat strips (jiasha).
Address: Building 2, Courtyard 6, Malian Road South, Xicheng District, Beijing (West side of Carrefour)
29.
Xinjiang Happy Restaurant
Located inside the Joy City shopping center, this shop has nice decor. The baked buns (kaobaozi) are excellent, and my overall impression is quite good.
Address: Exit at Xihongmen Station on Beijing Subway Line 4, third floor of Joy City shopping center.
30.
Bayi Laoye
Students on Xueyuan Road generally know about Bayi Laoye. The iron rack barbecue (tiejiazi kaorou) is a must-order. There are several branches in Beijing, all of which are popular, and sometimes you have to wait in line.
Address: Building 23, Weigongcun Residential Area, 22 Minzu University West Road, Haidian District, Beijing.
31. Ga Xiaozi Xinjiang Restaurant
This is a Xinjiang restaurant that Xinjiang friends all recommend. I really like the decor, which is typical of Southern Xinjiang. The cold starch noodles (liangpi) and grilled meat (kaorou) are both very authentic.
Address: 5th Floor, Wangfujing Department Store.
32.
Dardanelles Turkish Restaurant
There are three halal Turkish restaurants in Beijing, and this is my favorite. The main reason is the beautiful environment with Ottoman-style decor. The salmon, grilled meat, and steak are all delicious and not too expensive.
Address: Units 1-21-22, Courtyard 39, Shenlu Street, Ritan North Road, Chaoyang District, Beijing (west side of the North Korean Embassy).
33. KAVKAZ Azerbaijani Restaurant
At KAVKAZ Azerbaijani Restaurant, I tasted Caucasian salad, Azerbaijani soup dumplings, and Caucasian beef, along with Azerbaijani salty yogurt drink (ayran). The staff are all Azerbaijani. The young girl who served us did not speak much Chinese, but she was very cute and enthusiastic.
Address: East of Shenlu Street, Chaoyang District, Beijing.
34.
Shashi Castle Restaurant
This is an Uzbekistan-style restaurant themed around the romantic meeting of a prince and princess. They serve Middle Eastern, Russian, and Western food. The grilled steak is a must-order, and the Napoleon cake is quite delicious. There is also belly dancing at 7:30 PM.
Address: Exit E of Hujialou Subway Station, Chaoyang District, Beijing, 1st floor of the Saint Angel Hotel.
35.
Persepolis Restaurant
Persia is Iran. The Rumi Restaurant next door changed its sign. I used to go there often for the lunch buffet. Iranian black tea is a must-order, as is the grilled meat. You can eat saffron fried rice here.
Address: Exit A of Tuanjiehu Subway Station, Chaoyang District, Beijing.
36.
Turkish Mama Restaurant
Grilled meat and black tea are the specialties of Turkish cuisine. their desserts are made very delicately.
Address: Exit A of Tuanjiehu Subway Station, Chaoyang District, Beijing.
37.
Padang Restaurant
Padang Restaurant serves Indonesian-style Southeast Asian cuisine. I recommend their ice cream, Indonesian crispy chicken, Indonesian water spinach with shrimp paste, Indonesian village-style fried rice, lover's milkshake, lover's pudding, and golden potato beef rolls.
Address: 3rd Floor, Shimao Department Store, No. 13 Gongti North Road, Chaoyang District, Beijing (near Sanlitun Village).
38. Baku Caspian Western Restaurant
This is an Azerbaijani-style restaurant. I recommend the salmon pizza. The Caucasian desserts have a unique taste and are delicious and affordable.
Address: Middle section of Shenlu Street, Chaoyang District.
39. Saduri Indian Restaurant
The place is not big, but it is very clean and tidy. The Indian curry tastes great.
Address: Ju'er Hutong, Nanluoguxiang.
40. Istanbul Restaurant
The capital of Turkey is not Istanbul, but Ankara. The shop is quite small, but very refined and the prices are cheap.
Address: No. B7 Xiushui South Street (north side of International Building, back street of Friendship Store).
41. Punjab Indian-Afghan Restaurant
This is actually an Indian-Pakistani style restaurant located on the second floor of Haoyun Street. I like eating their flatbread (naan) dipped in beef curry sauce.
42. Lazeez Indian Music Restaurant
The halal sign for this shop is hung inside. Luckily my classmate reminded me, otherwise I would have missed such a unique style of Indian cuisine. The environment inside has a very exotic feel, and you can hear beautiful Indian songs. You can eat authentic Indian thick spicy beef curry, chicken curry, cream of mushroom soup, Mughal royal flatbread (naan), samosa chaat, and rose yogurt milkshake here. There is a wide variety of dishes.
Address: No. 31 Gulou West Street, Xicheng District.
43. Sukhothai Thai-Malaysian Restaurant
Sukhothai was the capital of the first Thai dynasty, the Sukhothai Dynasty. The original Nanyang Yiyicheng Malaysian restaurant in Dongzhimen has closed, and I was worried about where to find halal Malaysian food. I recommend the original milk tea, pineapple rice, and coconut pudding with sago.
Address: Ju'er Hutong, Nanluoguxiang, opposite Saduli Restaurant.
44. Hefeng Banquet
This is the first halal Japanese restaurant in Beijing. The head chef used to work at the Kempinski Hotel. The space is bright and roomy with private rooms. The food is carefully prepared for its look, smell, and taste. You can order Australian wagyu beef hot pot here. The owner is a Hui Muslim from Lanzhou who is very devout, so you can trust the ingredients. The palm-sized prawns are fresh and tasty. The tempura sushi and saury taste just like they do in Japan. You get a free pudding after your meal.
Address: First floor, Shaanxi Building, Shilihe, Chaoyang District.
45. Cheese Molecule Pizza
This shop specializes in pizza. The large round tables are great for group meals, and they have many pizza flavors.
Address: Basement level 1, U-Town Plaza, Chaoyangmenwai.
46. Alameen Lebanese Restaurant
Lebanese food is one of my favorite Middle Eastern cuisines. This place has a nice, quiet atmosphere and fair prices. They serve pizza, steak, salads, and more. The grilled chicken breast is delicious.
Address: Next to the German Embassy, Sanlitun.
47. Pakistani Khan Baba Restaurant
Pakistani food is as common abroad as Lanzhou hand-pulled noodles (lamian) are here. This restaurant is quite popular.
Address: Room 511, 5th Floor, Building 2, Sanlitun SOHO, No. 8 Gongti North Road, Chaoyang District.
I do not want to write anymore. This is getting too long and uses too much data, so I will talk about the rest later.
To be continued... Collapse Read »
Summary: This first Beijing halal dining guide lists classic Muslim restaurants, Niujie favorites, hot pot, noodles, roast duck, Xinjiang food, and foreign halal restaurants across the city.
1.
Jubaoyuan
I put Jubaoyuan first not because it is the best, as I do not rank them, but because it used to be closest to my home. Before the Niujie renovation, I lived in Shouliu Hutong right behind Jubaoyuan. Jubaoyuan is not an old Beijing brand. When I was a child, it was just a shop selling beef and mutton. Later, they started a hot pot business and became popular before anyone noticed. For those who have not been to the great Northwest and have not eaten authentic Northwest beef and mutton, Jubaoyuan tastes quite good. I recommend their small sesame flatbread (shaobing), which is crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. Because it is so popular, they now limit purchases to three per person. Before you come, be prepared to wait in line for at least an hour and a half. You might also encounter some stern-faced servers.
Address: No. 5-2 Niujie, Xuanwu District, Beijing
2.
Liankexuan Four Seasons Hot Pot (Liankexuan Siji Shuanrou)
If you think the wait at Jubaoyuan is too long, you can cross the street, walk south, and eat at Liankexuan. The restaurant is on the second floor. It is very large, so there are always empty seats whenever you go. The meat plates at Liankexuan are large. Two people with a normal appetite can finish one plate of meat and be full after adding some side dishes.
Address: 2nd Floor, Commercial Building, No. 20-22 Niujie, Xicheng District, Beijing
3.
Hongshunxuan
Hongshunxuan is a Beijing-style restaurant. The braised meat strips (ba routiao), stir-fried mutton with eggs and wood ear mushrooms (culiu muxu), braised oxtail (hongshao niuwei), sweet lamb dish (tasi mi), and candied yam and date rolls (tang juanguo) are all very authentic. You can also eat hot pot here, but I am not sure how it tastes.
Address: No. 3 Commercial Street, North Entrance of Niujie, Beijing
4.
Laochengyi Lamb Spine Hot Pot (Laochengyi Yangxiezi)
The lamb spine (yangxiezi) at Laochengyi is truly delicious. The lamb chops are stewed until very tender. The mouth-watering chicken (kou shui ji) is also a must-order dish. After finishing the lamb spine, you can cook other vegetables in the pot. The shop has two floors and plenty of seating, so even at meal times, the wait is not too long.
Address: No. 3 Commercial Street, North Entrance of Niujie, Beijing
5.
Mudelou
Mudelou's roast duck is excellent and requires a one-hour advance reservation. If you want halal roast duck, Mudelou is the top choice. They also have grilled fish. this restaurant is smoke-free and alcohol-free. During Ramadan, they also provide iftar meals for the elders at the mosque.
Address: No. 19 Jiaozihutong, Guang'anmen Inner Street, Xicheng District, Beijing (right next to the east gate of the Niujie Dongli community)
6.
Baodu Wai
Quick-boiled tripe (baodu) is a classic Beijing snack. Although this is a small shop specializing in tripe, I think their beef noodles are even better.
Does looking at these big chunks of beef make you hungry?
Address: No. 5, Fayuansi Xili, Jiaozihutong, Xicheng District, Beijing.
7.
Dashuntang
Dashuntang has been around for a long time. They make very authentic Beijing-style halal food. When families have special occasions, they usually choose Dashuntang first. Roasted lamb chops, boiled beef, deep-fried lamb tail, and roast duck are all very popular.
Address: No. 4A, Building 5, Fayuansi Xili, Jiaozihutong, Xicheng District, Beijing.
8.
Yang's Beef Pie (Yangji Niuroubing)
Old Yang makes great meat pies. They are limited each day and sell out after meal times. The beef and green onion flavor is the most popular. I can eat two at a time. Usually, when I am too lazy to cook, I buy them to take home. But the real treat is sitting on a stool at the door, eating a fresh pie right out of the pan with a bowl of millet porridge.
Address: No. 42-13, Jiaozihutong, Xicheng District, Beijing.
9.
Halal Spicy Hot Pot (Mala Tang)
I am introducing two halal spicy hot pot shops together. One is in Jiaozihutong on Niujie Street, and the other is at the south gate of Beijing Jiaotong University. Both have their own strengths. The Niujie shop uses more sesame paste, while the Jiaotong University shop uses more chili oil. Spicy hot pot in the Northwest region mainly uses chili oil, but both shops are delicious.
Address: Next to the fruit supermarket in Jiaozihutong, Xicheng District; Ma Jinlong is in the street-level shops at the south gate of Beijing Jiaotong University.
10.
Junlian Halal Dumpling Restaurant
This shop has all kinds of dumpling fillings, like pineapple or tomato. It is very popular, and you have to wait in line during meal times. My favorites are the traditional beef and green onion, or chive and egg dumplings.
Address: South Gate, Niujie Xili District 2, Xicheng District, Beijing.
11. Halal Bridge-Crossing Rice Noodles (Guoqiao Mixian)
There are two bridge-crossing rice noodle (guoqiao mixian) shops in the Niujie area. One is in Jiaozi Hutong next to the Old Yang Meat Pie (laoyang roubing) shop. The other is at the intersection of Nanheng West Street and You'anmen Inner Street. Both taste about the same, but I personally prefer the one on Nanheng West Street because it looks cleaner.
12. Shandong Big and Thick Pancake (Shandong shada cu jianbing)
I don't usually like pancakes, but I love the Shandong pancakes made by this big brother.
Address:
A row of storefronts on the west side of Jiaozi Hutong
13. Fried Sauce Noodles (zhajiangmian)
People often ask me where to find halal fried sauce noodles. Although people usually make them at home, there is a halal noodle shop across from the Hui Muslim Hospital where you can get them. The taste is decent.
14. Turpan Restaurant (Tulufan Canting)
The red willow skewer barbecue (hongliu kaorou) at Turpan Restaurant is worth recommending. You can also try the bamboo fungus soup (zhusun tang) and vegetarian chicken legs (sujitui). You need to order the whole roasted lamb (kao quanyang) in advance. The breakfast at Turpan Restaurant is the most popular and affordable. They serve sesame flatbread (shaobing), deep-fried dough sticks (youtiao), tofu pudding (doufunao), offal soup (zasui tang), steamed buns (baozi), and purple rice porridge. These are all common Beijing breakfast items. They are served before 9:00 AM, and you will need to wait in line.
Address: No. 6 Niujie, Xicheng District
15.
Fuxingte Halal Restaurant
This is a Beijing-style halal restaurant. The braised hairtail (hongshao daiyu) and stir-fried meat with chestnuts (lizi chaorou) are both delicious. The advantages are that it is not crowded and the prices are cheap.
Address: East side of Xinrong South Street, Daxing District, Beijing, near the Xihongmen Mosque.
16. Ziguangyuan
Ziguangyuan is also one of Beijing's time-honored brands with many chain locations. Their specialties are roast duck, stir-fried dough bits (chaogeda), and fried lamb tail (zha yangwei), which often sell out. Their breakfast is also good. My standard order is a sesame flatbread with meat (shaobing jiarou) paired with homemade yogurt.
Address: 300 meters east of the Old Bridge, Beimenkou Village, Majuqiao Town, Tongzhou District
17.
Hongbinlou
This is one of Beijing's high-end halal dining brands. It is a time-honored restaurant that Zhou Enlai invited to Beijing from Tianjin. The taste goes without saying. I recommend their dim sum. The price is a bit expensive; it costs about 500 for two people.
Address: No. 11 Zhanlanguan Road, Xicheng District, Beijing
18.
Yuanxie Shuanrou Restaurant
The flavor is very similar to Jubaoyuan, and even their sesame flatbreads are made just like Jubaoyuan's. The good thing is that there are no purchase limits and no lines. The owner is a Hui Muslim from Xinjiang who has lived in Beijing for many years and married a Beijing woman. The shop is spacious, the servers are warm and polite, and the prices are quite cheap. If you want to eat at Jubaoyuan but don't want to wait in line for two hours, you should come here instead.
Address: Nanxiaojie South Road, Fengtai District, Beijing.
19.
Zhangji Hot Pot (Zhangji Shuanrou)
The owner of Qianmen Zhangji Hot Pot is a Hui Muslim from Niujie. He spent six years in the Xinjiang Production and Construction Corps and is good friends with the owners of Jubaoyuan, Niangao Yang, and Nailao Wei. He is amazed at how famous Jubaoyuan has become in recent years and feels that traditional old Beijing culture is disappearing. The old gentleman is open-minded, funny, and humorous.
Address: 95 Meishi Street, Xicheng District, Beijing, near the Qianmen McDonald's.
20. Sijiqing Jinxiangquan Hot Pot Restaurant
The lamb comes from Inner Mongolia, and the restaurant's specialty is using Xiangshan spring water for the hot pot.
Address: West of Sijiqing Bridge, Haidian District (southwest corner of Nanpingzhuang intersection).
21. Changying Three Brothers
I am not sure if the tall guy calling out numbers at the door is one of the three brothers, but the line is just as long as at Jubaoyuan. The deep-fried meat strips (zha songrou) are delicious, the lamb brain (yang shangnao) is tender, and the prices are cheap. You can even get a discount if you don't ask for a receipt.
Address: Changying Middle Road, Chaoyang District.
22. Yanlanlou
Yanlanlou is a famous chain of Northwest Chinese restaurants in Beijing. It is a more upscale option with many branches across the city. I like their oxtail, and their beef noodles are also made with great care.
Address: Opposite the National Library.
23. Western Mahua
Western Mahua is my canteen. I have basically eaten every dish on their menu, and almost all of them suit my taste. Mahua Shifu claims to be a full-service halal restaurant, offering roast duck, hot pot, Sichuan cuisine, Cantonese cuisine, and Beijing cuisine.
Address: 2 Baijiazhuang Xili, Chaoyang District.
24. Dafengshou Fish Restaurant
The 3,000-square-meter flagship store of Dafengshou Fish Restaurant in Beijing is highly recommended for its river catfish (jiangtuan yu) hot pot and golden pepper fish pot. The golden pepper sauce is spicy and delicious, and you can even pack the peppers to take home. The Hezhou steamed buns (Hezhou baozi) are as popular as ever, the Lanzhou cold noodles (niangpi) and chive pockets (jiucai hezi) are very authentic, and the quail century eggs and hand-grabbed pancakes (shouzhuabing) are great for satisfying cravings.
Address: Basement level, Shaanxi Mansion, Panjiayuan, Chaoyang District.
25. Red willow skewer roasted lamb spine (hongliushu kao yangxiezi)
I have eaten the dry pot catfish (suobianyu) here and it tastes great. The catfish is fresh, tender, and has few bones. The environment is nice, and they also sell dry pot duck feet.
Address: Gongti East Road, Chaoyang District
26.
Urumqi Office in Beijing
If you want authentic Xinjiang barbecue in Beijing, you must come to the Urumqi Office in Beijing. This place is packed every day, and the pilaf (zhuafan) is usually sold out by 5:00 PM. Feel free to try the cold starch noodles (liangpizi), big plate chicken (dapanji), and hand-pulled noodles (latiaozi); you will be satisfied.
Address: Urumqi Office in Beijing, No. 1 Chegongzhuang Street North, Xicheng District, Beijing (North of the Five Buildings)
27.
Taste of Xinjiang Restaurant
I like this restaurant because the environment is quiet and the food tastes standard and reliable.
Address: Second floor of Aidinghu Business Club, No. 51 Wujiachang Road, Haidian District, Beijing.
28.
Xinjiang Bingtuan Restaurant
The stir-fried dough bits (chaogeda) and yogurt (suannai) here are must-order dishes. It is very popular and the taste is good. I like eating the baked buns (kaobaozi) and fried meat strips (jiasha).
Address: Building 2, Courtyard 6, Malian Road South, Xicheng District, Beijing (West side of Carrefour)
29.
Xinjiang Happy Restaurant
Located inside the Joy City shopping center, this shop has nice decor. The baked buns (kaobaozi) are excellent, and my overall impression is quite good.
Address: Exit at Xihongmen Station on Beijing Subway Line 4, third floor of Joy City shopping center.
30.
Bayi Laoye
Students on Xueyuan Road generally know about Bayi Laoye. The iron rack barbecue (tiejiazi kaorou) is a must-order. There are several branches in Beijing, all of which are popular, and sometimes you have to wait in line.
Address: Building 23, Weigongcun Residential Area, 22 Minzu University West Road, Haidian District, Beijing.
31. Ga Xiaozi Xinjiang Restaurant
This is a Xinjiang restaurant that Xinjiang friends all recommend. I really like the decor, which is typical of Southern Xinjiang. The cold starch noodles (liangpi) and grilled meat (kaorou) are both very authentic.
Address: 5th Floor, Wangfujing Department Store.
32.
Dardanelles Turkish Restaurant
There are three halal Turkish restaurants in Beijing, and this is my favorite. The main reason is the beautiful environment with Ottoman-style decor. The salmon, grilled meat, and steak are all delicious and not too expensive.
Address: Units 1-21-22, Courtyard 39, Shenlu Street, Ritan North Road, Chaoyang District, Beijing (west side of the North Korean Embassy).
33. KAVKAZ Azerbaijani Restaurant
At KAVKAZ Azerbaijani Restaurant, I tasted Caucasian salad, Azerbaijani soup dumplings, and Caucasian beef, along with Azerbaijani salty yogurt drink (ayran). The staff are all Azerbaijani. The young girl who served us did not speak much Chinese, but she was very cute and enthusiastic.
Address: East of Shenlu Street, Chaoyang District, Beijing.
34.
Shashi Castle Restaurant
This is an Uzbekistan-style restaurant themed around the romantic meeting of a prince and princess. They serve Middle Eastern, Russian, and Western food. The grilled steak is a must-order, and the Napoleon cake is quite delicious. There is also belly dancing at 7:30 PM.
Address: Exit E of Hujialou Subway Station, Chaoyang District, Beijing, 1st floor of the Saint Angel Hotel.
35.
Persepolis Restaurant
Persia is Iran. The Rumi Restaurant next door changed its sign. I used to go there often for the lunch buffet. Iranian black tea is a must-order, as is the grilled meat. You can eat saffron fried rice here.
Address: Exit A of Tuanjiehu Subway Station, Chaoyang District, Beijing.
36.
Turkish Mama Restaurant
Grilled meat and black tea are the specialties of Turkish cuisine. their desserts are made very delicately.
Address: Exit A of Tuanjiehu Subway Station, Chaoyang District, Beijing.
37.
Padang Restaurant
Padang Restaurant serves Indonesian-style Southeast Asian cuisine. I recommend their ice cream, Indonesian crispy chicken, Indonesian water spinach with shrimp paste, Indonesian village-style fried rice, lover's milkshake, lover's pudding, and golden potato beef rolls.
Address: 3rd Floor, Shimao Department Store, No. 13 Gongti North Road, Chaoyang District, Beijing (near Sanlitun Village).
38. Baku Caspian Western Restaurant
This is an Azerbaijani-style restaurant. I recommend the salmon pizza. The Caucasian desserts have a unique taste and are delicious and affordable.
Address: Middle section of Shenlu Street, Chaoyang District.
39. Saduri Indian Restaurant
The place is not big, but it is very clean and tidy. The Indian curry tastes great.
Address: Ju'er Hutong, Nanluoguxiang.
40. Istanbul Restaurant
The capital of Turkey is not Istanbul, but Ankara. The shop is quite small, but very refined and the prices are cheap.
Address: No. B7 Xiushui South Street (north side of International Building, back street of Friendship Store).
41. Punjab Indian-Afghan Restaurant
This is actually an Indian-Pakistani style restaurant located on the second floor of Haoyun Street. I like eating their flatbread (naan) dipped in beef curry sauce.
42. Lazeez Indian Music Restaurant
The halal sign for this shop is hung inside. Luckily my classmate reminded me, otherwise I would have missed such a unique style of Indian cuisine. The environment inside has a very exotic feel, and you can hear beautiful Indian songs. You can eat authentic Indian thick spicy beef curry, chicken curry, cream of mushroom soup, Mughal royal flatbread (naan), samosa chaat, and rose yogurt milkshake here. There is a wide variety of dishes.
Address: No. 31 Gulou West Street, Xicheng District.
43. Sukhothai Thai-Malaysian Restaurant
Sukhothai was the capital of the first Thai dynasty, the Sukhothai Dynasty. The original Nanyang Yiyicheng Malaysian restaurant in Dongzhimen has closed, and I was worried about where to find halal Malaysian food. I recommend the original milk tea, pineapple rice, and coconut pudding with sago.
Address: Ju'er Hutong, Nanluoguxiang, opposite Saduli Restaurant.
44. Hefeng Banquet
This is the first halal Japanese restaurant in Beijing. The head chef used to work at the Kempinski Hotel. The space is bright and roomy with private rooms. The food is carefully prepared for its look, smell, and taste. You can order Australian wagyu beef hot pot here. The owner is a Hui Muslim from Lanzhou who is very devout, so you can trust the ingredients. The palm-sized prawns are fresh and tasty. The tempura sushi and saury taste just like they do in Japan. You get a free pudding after your meal.
Address: First floor, Shaanxi Building, Shilihe, Chaoyang District.
45. Cheese Molecule Pizza
This shop specializes in pizza. The large round tables are great for group meals, and they have many pizza flavors.
Address: Basement level 1, U-Town Plaza, Chaoyangmenwai.
46. Alameen Lebanese Restaurant
Lebanese food is one of my favorite Middle Eastern cuisines. This place has a nice, quiet atmosphere and fair prices. They serve pizza, steak, salads, and more. The grilled chicken breast is delicious.
Address: Next to the German Embassy, Sanlitun.
47. Pakistani Khan Baba Restaurant
Pakistani food is as common abroad as Lanzhou hand-pulled noodles (lamian) are here. This restaurant is quite popular.
Address: Room 511, 5th Floor, Building 2, Sanlitun SOHO, No. 8 Gongti North Road, Chaoyang District.
I do not want to write anymore. This is getting too long and uses too much data, so I will talk about the rest later.
To be continued... Collapse Read »
Best Hui Muslim Food in Shaoyang: Hunan Rice Noodles, Beef and Local Halal Dishes
Reposted from the web
Summary: This Shaoyang halal food guide follows Hui Muslim food in Hunan, including rice noodles, beef dishes, local snacks, and the author’s mosque-and-food route through the city.
On May 1st, I arrived in Shaoyang from Changsha, Hunan, in the evening to slurp authentic Shaoyang rice noodles (shaoyang fen) at the long-standing Hui Muslim Restaurant No. 1 on Dongfeng Road.
The two most famous Hui Muslim noodle shops in Shaoyang are Hui Muslim Restaurant No. 1 on Dongfeng Road and Hui Muslim Restaurant No. 2 on Hongqi Road. Both grew out of the Shaoyang Hui Muslim Canteen, which was formed in 1956 during the public-private partnership era by elders from the Shaoyang South Mosque and East Mosque. In 1960, the Shaoyang Hui Muslim Canteen split into Hui Muslim Canteen No. 1 on Dongfeng Road and Hui Muslim Canteen No. 2 on Hongqi Road. After restructuring in 1982, they were renamed Hui Muslim Restaurant No. 1 and Hui Muslim Restaurant No. 2. Today, both shops operate at their original locations, serving traditional Shaoyang Hui Muslim noodles and various snacks.
Shaoyang noodles are known for being thick, round, and chewy, served in bright red chili oil. The Hui Muslim version is especially famous for its slow-cooked beef bone broth and large slices of beef. I ordered the top-tier three-delicacy noodles, which included beef egg dumplings, beef tripe, and large slices of beef, plus dried butterfly-shaped tofu (hudiegan) and pressed tofu (xianggan). This was my first time trying Hunan beef egg dumplings. They tasted great and felt very healthy. The beef tripe was chewy but not tough, and the beef was delicious. I asked the lady making the noodles for a mild spice level, and the heat was just right.
The soul of Shaoyang noodles is the local mountain pepper oil (shanhujiao you). It is made by mixing mountain spice (shancangzi) with vegetable oil, giving it a crisp lemon scent with hints of mint and ginger.
Another very popular item at the shop is the freshly fried brown sugar rice cake (hongtang baba). Brown sugar is a Shaoyang specialty. The local sugarcane has high sugar content, and the white frost on the surface is very nutritious. The resulting brown sugar is sweet but not cloying, with a rich, lingering sweetness and a unique sugarcane aroma. The brown sugar rice cakes cost two yuan each, and many people out for an evening stroll buy them to eat.
Near Hui Muslim Restaurant No. 1 is the Shaoyang East Mosque. This is the oldest Hui mosque in Hunan, first built in 1368 (the first year of the Hongwu reign of the Ming Dynasty), which is why it is called the ancient mosque or old mosque.
In the first year of the Hongwu reign, the first Hui Muslim families to move to Shaoyang were the Ma, Zhang, and Su families. In the second year, the Hai and Cai families arrived, forming the five founding families of the Shaoyang East Mosque. The ancestor of the Ma family, Ma Cheng, was originally from Taixing, Jiangsu. During the Yuan Dynasty, he served as an official in the Privy Council. In the first year of the Hongwu reign, he retired and moved to Shaoyang. Because his descendants were granted the hereditary title of 'Hundred-Household' official, they became known as the Hundred-Household Ma family. The ancestor of the Zhang family, Pu Luode, was originally from Sanhe, Langfang, Hebei. In the first year of the Hongwu reign, he was appointed as a commander in the Baoqing Guard and moved to Shaoyang. The Ming Emperor gave him the surname Zhang. The ancestor of the Su family, Su Tong, was originally from Beijing. During the Hongwu reign, he was appointed as a commander and moved to Shaoyang. The ancestor of the Hai family, Hai Mengshi, was originally from Shunyi District, Beijing. In the second year of the Hongwu reign, he was appointed to the Baoqing Guard and later settled in Hai Family Lane in Shaoyang. At the end of the Yuan Dynasty, the Cai family ancestor lived in the Hui Muslim camp outside the south gate of Nanjing. In the second year of the Hongwu reign, he was appointed as a commander and moved to Shaoyang.
The original location of the Shaoyang East Mosque is unknown. It is only known that it was moved from near the ancient Baihe Mosque in Tianjiawan Third Lane inside the city to the cattle slaughtering area (niuping) at the north end of Goutoupo, facing the Shaofu Street entrance. Because the cattle slaughtering area was near a Buddhist nunnery, it faced frequent interference, and the building was too small. In 1743 (the eighth year of the Qianlong reign), they traded land with the Gao and Liu families from Zhangjiachong outside the city and rebuilt it at the current location of the East Mosque.
The Shaoyang East Mosque was renovated in 1836 (the sixteenth year of the Daoguang reign), bombed by the Japanese army in 1944, and repaired in 1954. The main hall collapsed again in 1986, was rebuilt in 1990, and took on its current appearance after a Sinicization renovation in 2021.
The Zhangjiachong entrance near the Shaoyang East Mosque has always been the main hub for Hui Muslim food businesses. During the Republic of China era, it was home to halal eateries like Sihailou, Shuangfaguan, Dongheguan, Dongheyuan, Cuixiangyuan, and Fengfayuan, where a bowl of rice noodles paired with a bowl of rice was the popular meal. In 1956, these eateries were brought under the management of the city's catering company, which became the predecessor to today's Hui Muslim Restaurant No. 1.
The cemetery for the Ma, Zhang, and Hai families of Shaoyang Hui Muslims is located at the west end of Xihu Bridge. The Shaoyang South Mosque moved next to the cemetery in 1992, and the area has since become a major gathering place for Shaoyang's Hui Muslims.
The Shaoyang South Mosque was originally located at Jinjiatai outside the South Gate. It was built in 1914 under the leadership of Ma Xiangwu and other local Hui Muslims, with Ma Linyi donating a significant amount of funds. In 1985, due to the construction of National Highway 207, the South Mosque was moved next to the Hui Muslim cemetery and rebuilt to its original size. The original contractor cut corners, leaving the main hall unusable. It was demolished and rebuilt, and the current structure was officially completed in 1992.
The entrance to the Shaoyang South Mosque is likely the most convenient place for Shaoyang Hui Muslims to grab a meal. In the morning, the street is filled with vendors selling steamed buns (baozi), mung bean porridge, stir-fried rice noodles, and deep-fried dough sticks (youtiao), along with the standard beef rice noodles.
A standout item at the steamed bun stall is the spicy dried tofu (dougan) bun. The filling is made of diced dried tofu, fresh chili, mountain pepper oil, and spicy chili oil, wrapped in dough leavened with sourdough starter, making it soft yet chewy. The stir-fried rice noodles use thick, round Shaoyang-style noodles, flash-fried over high heat until spicy and flavorful.
We also bought cat ear pastries (mao'erduo) at the Ma Girl Pastry Shop by the mosque entrance, which are flavored with brown sugar. Shaoyang brown sugar is very famous and has a unique sugarcane aroma.
We had lunch at the Zhang Family Hui Muslim Restaurant by the Shaoyang South Mosque, where you can find the most classic Shaoyang Hui Muslim stir-fry dishes.
Shaoyang Hui Muslim cuisine focuses on beef, covering almost every edible part of the cow, from basic stir-fried beef to beef hoof, beef tendon, beef tripe, beef omasum, and their signature large slices of beef. They offer hot stir-fry methods like small-batch frying, iron-plate cooking, and toothpick beef, as well as soups like beef omasum soup. If you want spicy food, you can order stir-fried beef with chili, sour and spicy chicken giblets, stir-fried chili with fermented black beans, or steamed fish with Lao Gan Ma sauce. If you prefer less spice, you can ask the staff for mild or no spice, which makes it easy for northerners to enjoy.
We ordered stir-fried beef hoof, home-style grass carp, and stir-fried asparagus lettuce (wosun). The beef hoof was stir-fried with green chili, just like the stir-fried beef, but the hoof felt a bit tough and hard to chew. The asparagus lettuce was the best part—very fresh and tender. The kind you buy in Beijing supermarkets can't compare. They use a lot of rapeseed oil for vegetables here, which I think adds great flavor, but those who prefer lighter food should mention it beforehand. The home-style grass carp had quite a few bones, but the meat was excellent and lacked the fishy smell often found in northern grass carp. I usually don't like grass carp in Beijing, but I ordered it after the owner said the Hunan grass carp was good, and it turned out to be delicious.
They are very observant of their faith, and the mosque's imam (pieshen) even came to eat there at noon. After prayers, the elders from the mosque all came to the shop for noodles, which shows that the locals really trust this place. Their mooncakes (yuebing) are also very popular. While we were eating, we saw several groups of people come by just to buy them. The local Shaoyang mooncakes are just too big. After finishing one, you feel like you do not need to eat a meal.
The wall at the entrance of the South Mosque (Nansi) in Shaoyang features a series of paintings about the history of local Hui Muslims. The images include traditional Hui mooncakes, Hui sesame oil (xiangyou), Hui fried tofu (youdoufu), a Hui canteen, the Jiqing Hui Restaurant, and the Nanmenkou Three Spices Shop. There are many other shops near the entrance of the South Mosque, such as Zhang's Hui Barbecue, a pastry shop run by a Hui person named Su, and Ma's Hui Noodle Shop. There is also a hotel for ethnic minorities inside the South Mosque courtyard, making it very convenient for eating and staying.
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Summary: This Shaoyang halal food guide follows Hui Muslim food in Hunan, including rice noodles, beef dishes, local snacks, and the author’s mosque-and-food route through the city.
On May 1st, I arrived in Shaoyang from Changsha, Hunan, in the evening to slurp authentic Shaoyang rice noodles (shaoyang fen) at the long-standing Hui Muslim Restaurant No. 1 on Dongfeng Road.
The two most famous Hui Muslim noodle shops in Shaoyang are Hui Muslim Restaurant No. 1 on Dongfeng Road and Hui Muslim Restaurant No. 2 on Hongqi Road. Both grew out of the Shaoyang Hui Muslim Canteen, which was formed in 1956 during the public-private partnership era by elders from the Shaoyang South Mosque and East Mosque. In 1960, the Shaoyang Hui Muslim Canteen split into Hui Muslim Canteen No. 1 on Dongfeng Road and Hui Muslim Canteen No. 2 on Hongqi Road. After restructuring in 1982, they were renamed Hui Muslim Restaurant No. 1 and Hui Muslim Restaurant No. 2. Today, both shops operate at their original locations, serving traditional Shaoyang Hui Muslim noodles and various snacks.
Shaoyang noodles are known for being thick, round, and chewy, served in bright red chili oil. The Hui Muslim version is especially famous for its slow-cooked beef bone broth and large slices of beef. I ordered the top-tier three-delicacy noodles, which included beef egg dumplings, beef tripe, and large slices of beef, plus dried butterfly-shaped tofu (hudiegan) and pressed tofu (xianggan). This was my first time trying Hunan beef egg dumplings. They tasted great and felt very healthy. The beef tripe was chewy but not tough, and the beef was delicious. I asked the lady making the noodles for a mild spice level, and the heat was just right.
The soul of Shaoyang noodles is the local mountain pepper oil (shanhujiao you). It is made by mixing mountain spice (shancangzi) with vegetable oil, giving it a crisp lemon scent with hints of mint and ginger.
Another very popular item at the shop is the freshly fried brown sugar rice cake (hongtang baba). Brown sugar is a Shaoyang specialty. The local sugarcane has high sugar content, and the white frost on the surface is very nutritious. The resulting brown sugar is sweet but not cloying, with a rich, lingering sweetness and a unique sugarcane aroma. The brown sugar rice cakes cost two yuan each, and many people out for an evening stroll buy them to eat.
Near Hui Muslim Restaurant No. 1 is the Shaoyang East Mosque. This is the oldest Hui mosque in Hunan, first built in 1368 (the first year of the Hongwu reign of the Ming Dynasty), which is why it is called the ancient mosque or old mosque.
In the first year of the Hongwu reign, the first Hui Muslim families to move to Shaoyang were the Ma, Zhang, and Su families. In the second year, the Hai and Cai families arrived, forming the five founding families of the Shaoyang East Mosque. The ancestor of the Ma family, Ma Cheng, was originally from Taixing, Jiangsu. During the Yuan Dynasty, he served as an official in the Privy Council. In the first year of the Hongwu reign, he retired and moved to Shaoyang. Because his descendants were granted the hereditary title of 'Hundred-Household' official, they became known as the Hundred-Household Ma family. The ancestor of the Zhang family, Pu Luode, was originally from Sanhe, Langfang, Hebei. In the first year of the Hongwu reign, he was appointed as a commander in the Baoqing Guard and moved to Shaoyang. The Ming Emperor gave him the surname Zhang. The ancestor of the Su family, Su Tong, was originally from Beijing. During the Hongwu reign, he was appointed as a commander and moved to Shaoyang. The ancestor of the Hai family, Hai Mengshi, was originally from Shunyi District, Beijing. In the second year of the Hongwu reign, he was appointed to the Baoqing Guard and later settled in Hai Family Lane in Shaoyang. At the end of the Yuan Dynasty, the Cai family ancestor lived in the Hui Muslim camp outside the south gate of Nanjing. In the second year of the Hongwu reign, he was appointed as a commander and moved to Shaoyang.
The original location of the Shaoyang East Mosque is unknown. It is only known that it was moved from near the ancient Baihe Mosque in Tianjiawan Third Lane inside the city to the cattle slaughtering area (niuping) at the north end of Goutoupo, facing the Shaofu Street entrance. Because the cattle slaughtering area was near a Buddhist nunnery, it faced frequent interference, and the building was too small. In 1743 (the eighth year of the Qianlong reign), they traded land with the Gao and Liu families from Zhangjiachong outside the city and rebuilt it at the current location of the East Mosque.
The Shaoyang East Mosque was renovated in 1836 (the sixteenth year of the Daoguang reign), bombed by the Japanese army in 1944, and repaired in 1954. The main hall collapsed again in 1986, was rebuilt in 1990, and took on its current appearance after a Sinicization renovation in 2021.
The Zhangjiachong entrance near the Shaoyang East Mosque has always been the main hub for Hui Muslim food businesses. During the Republic of China era, it was home to halal eateries like Sihailou, Shuangfaguan, Dongheguan, Dongheyuan, Cuixiangyuan, and Fengfayuan, where a bowl of rice noodles paired with a bowl of rice was the popular meal. In 1956, these eateries were brought under the management of the city's catering company, which became the predecessor to today's Hui Muslim Restaurant No. 1.
The cemetery for the Ma, Zhang, and Hai families of Shaoyang Hui Muslims is located at the west end of Xihu Bridge. The Shaoyang South Mosque moved next to the cemetery in 1992, and the area has since become a major gathering place for Shaoyang's Hui Muslims.
The Shaoyang South Mosque was originally located at Jinjiatai outside the South Gate. It was built in 1914 under the leadership of Ma Xiangwu and other local Hui Muslims, with Ma Linyi donating a significant amount of funds. In 1985, due to the construction of National Highway 207, the South Mosque was moved next to the Hui Muslim cemetery and rebuilt to its original size. The original contractor cut corners, leaving the main hall unusable. It was demolished and rebuilt, and the current structure was officially completed in 1992.
The entrance to the Shaoyang South Mosque is likely the most convenient place for Shaoyang Hui Muslims to grab a meal. In the morning, the street is filled with vendors selling steamed buns (baozi), mung bean porridge, stir-fried rice noodles, and deep-fried dough sticks (youtiao), along with the standard beef rice noodles.
A standout item at the steamed bun stall is the spicy dried tofu (dougan) bun. The filling is made of diced dried tofu, fresh chili, mountain pepper oil, and spicy chili oil, wrapped in dough leavened with sourdough starter, making it soft yet chewy. The stir-fried rice noodles use thick, round Shaoyang-style noodles, flash-fried over high heat until spicy and flavorful.
We also bought cat ear pastries (mao'erduo) at the Ma Girl Pastry Shop by the mosque entrance, which are flavored with brown sugar. Shaoyang brown sugar is very famous and has a unique sugarcane aroma.
We had lunch at the Zhang Family Hui Muslim Restaurant by the Shaoyang South Mosque, where you can find the most classic Shaoyang Hui Muslim stir-fry dishes.
Shaoyang Hui Muslim cuisine focuses on beef, covering almost every edible part of the cow, from basic stir-fried beef to beef hoof, beef tendon, beef tripe, beef omasum, and their signature large slices of beef. They offer hot stir-fry methods like small-batch frying, iron-plate cooking, and toothpick beef, as well as soups like beef omasum soup. If you want spicy food, you can order stir-fried beef with chili, sour and spicy chicken giblets, stir-fried chili with fermented black beans, or steamed fish with Lao Gan Ma sauce. If you prefer less spice, you can ask the staff for mild or no spice, which makes it easy for northerners to enjoy.
We ordered stir-fried beef hoof, home-style grass carp, and stir-fried asparagus lettuce (wosun). The beef hoof was stir-fried with green chili, just like the stir-fried beef, but the hoof felt a bit tough and hard to chew. The asparagus lettuce was the best part—very fresh and tender. The kind you buy in Beijing supermarkets can't compare. They use a lot of rapeseed oil for vegetables here, which I think adds great flavor, but those who prefer lighter food should mention it beforehand. The home-style grass carp had quite a few bones, but the meat was excellent and lacked the fishy smell often found in northern grass carp. I usually don't like grass carp in Beijing, but I ordered it after the owner said the Hunan grass carp was good, and it turned out to be delicious.
They are very observant of their faith, and the mosque's imam (pieshen) even came to eat there at noon. After prayers, the elders from the mosque all came to the shop for noodles, which shows that the locals really trust this place. Their mooncakes (yuebing) are also very popular. While we were eating, we saw several groups of people come by just to buy them. The local Shaoyang mooncakes are just too big. After finishing one, you feel like you do not need to eat a meal.
The wall at the entrance of the South Mosque (Nansi) in Shaoyang features a series of paintings about the history of local Hui Muslims. The images include traditional Hui mooncakes, Hui sesame oil (xiangyou), Hui fried tofu (youdoufu), a Hui canteen, the Jiqing Hui Restaurant, and the Nanmenkou Three Spices Shop. There are many other shops near the entrance of the South Mosque, such as Zhang's Hui Barbecue, a pastry shop run by a Hui person named Su, and Ma's Hui Noodle Shop. There is also a hotel for ethnic minorities inside the South Mosque courtyard, making it very convenient for eating and staying.
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Hidden Muslim Heritage in Changping: Sheikh Baba Tomb and Beijing Hui Memorial Gathering
Reposted from the web
Summary: This Changping article records the annual gathering at Sheikh Baba’s tomb in Heying, Beijing, including the saint’s story, Hui Muslim visitors, dua, and community remembrance.
Yesterday was the 24th day of the third lunar month, the date of the annual memorial gathering (gan'ermaili) at the tomb of the saintly elder Baha Haji Sheikh Baba in Heying, Changping, Beijing. On this day, friends (dost) from Gansu, Ningxia, Inner Mongolia, and across Beijing gathered here to remember the saint, learn about his life, and reflect on his great virtues and lasting influence on future generations.
The saint came to China from Medina during the Hongwu reign of the Ming Dynasty to offer advice to the capital, where he was highly respected by the Ming Emperor Taizu. He refused the official titles offered to him, asking only to travel and teach the faith to the local people. The saint traveled everywhere on a white camel, living with strict discipline and high moral character, winning people over through his virtuous deeds. The saint eventually arrived in Heying, Changping, where he taught, preached, and performed many acts of kindness before passing away and being buried there. For hundreds of years, local villagers have told the story of how the saint killed a python on Mangshan Mountain to protect the people, a righteous act that brought blessings to the area and earned him lasting fame.
We are here to learn from the saint's indifference to fame and wealth, his humility, his integrity, and his lack of interest in vanity. We learn from the saint's kindness and love, his dedication to teaching others, his devotion to Allah, his love for people, and his friendly relations with neighbors. We learn from the saint's perseverance in spreading the true path, his steadfast faith, and his service to the community. May we work together with one heart to bring the saint's virtues into our daily lives, respect education, help those in need, live in harmony, and ensure the light of the true path continues forever.
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Summary: This Changping article records the annual gathering at Sheikh Baba’s tomb in Heying, Beijing, including the saint’s story, Hui Muslim visitors, dua, and community remembrance.
Yesterday was the 24th day of the third lunar month, the date of the annual memorial gathering (gan'ermaili) at the tomb of the saintly elder Baha Haji Sheikh Baba in Heying, Changping, Beijing. On this day, friends (dost) from Gansu, Ningxia, Inner Mongolia, and across Beijing gathered here to remember the saint, learn about his life, and reflect on his great virtues and lasting influence on future generations.
The saint came to China from Medina during the Hongwu reign of the Ming Dynasty to offer advice to the capital, where he was highly respected by the Ming Emperor Taizu. He refused the official titles offered to him, asking only to travel and teach the faith to the local people. The saint traveled everywhere on a white camel, living with strict discipline and high moral character, winning people over through his virtuous deeds. The saint eventually arrived in Heying, Changping, where he taught, preached, and performed many acts of kindness before passing away and being buried there. For hundreds of years, local villagers have told the story of how the saint killed a python on Mangshan Mountain to protect the people, a righteous act that brought blessings to the area and earned him lasting fame.
We are here to learn from the saint's indifference to fame and wealth, his humility, his integrity, and his lack of interest in vanity. We learn from the saint's kindness and love, his dedication to teaching others, his devotion to Allah, his love for people, and his friendly relations with neighbors. We learn from the saint's perseverance in spreading the true path, his steadfast faith, and his service to the community. May we work together with one heart to bring the saint's virtues into our daily lives, respect education, help those in need, live in harmony, and ensure the light of the true path continues forever.
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Muslim-Friendly Mountain Stays Near Beijing: Two Hui Guesthouses for Spring Trips
Reposted from the web
Summary: This spring travel account visits two Hui Muslim guesthouses in Beijing’s mountain areas, with notes on meals, family trips, local scenery, and Muslim-friendly countryside stays.
At the end of April, we had lunch at Dongge Shanyuan Farmhouse, located deep in the mountains of Shengshuiyu, Fangshan. The farmhouse is very close to Shangfangshan National Forest Park. The mountains here are rugged, making this the steepest Hui Muslim farmhouse I have visited in Beijing. Driving to the farmhouse is fine, but electric cars cannot make it further up the mountain, so please be aware of this.
It is run by a Hui Muslim man from Haidian, and they specialize in Chinese toon (xiangchun) feasts and whole roasted lamb. The guest rooms are newly renovated and very clean, making it a great place to escape the summer heat. The courtyard sits on a platform atop a cliff. There are chickens and pigeons in the yard, along with many Chinese toon trees, which is why it is also called 'Chunxiang Valley'.
We ordered roasted lamb chops, scrambled eggs with Chinese toon, magnolia buds (mulanya), free-range chicken, stir-fried river shrimp with chives, shredded pork with garlic sprouts, and braised tofu with green onions. The Chinese toon was picked fresh from the trees, and the magnolia buds are the tender spring shoots of the goldenrain tree, a classic wild vegetable in the Beijing suburbs.
On May 5th, we went to Huairou for a post-holiday gathering at Xiangyu Homestay in Lianhuachi Village. It is run by Hui Muslims from the Tongzhou Great Mosque, and they specialize in rainbow trout and farmhouse dishes.
The homestay is in Lianhuachi Village, Huairou, right behind Mutianyu. You follow the valley from Yanqi Lake and pass Shentangyu to get there. I heard there was a huge traffic jam here on May 4th, but it was much less crowded when we went.
You must eat rainbow trout when you come to Huairou. Rainbow trout only survive in running water, so it is hard to find in the city. Their roasted fish is very well-made and has a great texture. For our meal, we had braised beef with potatoes, spicy stir-fried chicken, boiled beef, scrambled eggs with Chinese toon, celery with dried tofu, stewed tofu, stewed meatballs, mixed wild vegetables, and deep-fried prickly ash buds (huajiaoya), with green onion pancakes (conghuabing) as our staple food. The meatballs served at the start were a bit salty, but they adjusted immediately after we mentioned it, and the following dishes were all light. The Chinese toon and prickly ash buds were picked fresh from the trees; the main reason to eat in the mountains is for that fresh taste. The green onion pancakes were also pan-fried to order, which made them quite fragrant. The spicy chicken was a bit like fried chicken; it was tender inside but the flavor didn't soak in. The braised beef was cooked until very tender, and I thought it tasted good.
After eating, we went to play in the water at Shentangyu Village in Huairou. Parking in the village costs 20 yuan for anything over 30 minutes. There is a row of poplar trees by the water that provides shade, so it is not too sunny. We bought water clothes for the kids on the spot, but they still got quite wet sitting in the water, so I suggest bringing an extra set of clothes for the children. The water temperature in May is still a bit cool, but the sun is warm, making it perfect for outdoor activities.
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Summary: This spring travel account visits two Hui Muslim guesthouses in Beijing’s mountain areas, with notes on meals, family trips, local scenery, and Muslim-friendly countryside stays.
At the end of April, we had lunch at Dongge Shanyuan Farmhouse, located deep in the mountains of Shengshuiyu, Fangshan. The farmhouse is very close to Shangfangshan National Forest Park. The mountains here are rugged, making this the steepest Hui Muslim farmhouse I have visited in Beijing. Driving to the farmhouse is fine, but electric cars cannot make it further up the mountain, so please be aware of this.
It is run by a Hui Muslim man from Haidian, and they specialize in Chinese toon (xiangchun) feasts and whole roasted lamb. The guest rooms are newly renovated and very clean, making it a great place to escape the summer heat. The courtyard sits on a platform atop a cliff. There are chickens and pigeons in the yard, along with many Chinese toon trees, which is why it is also called 'Chunxiang Valley'.
We ordered roasted lamb chops, scrambled eggs with Chinese toon, magnolia buds (mulanya), free-range chicken, stir-fried river shrimp with chives, shredded pork with garlic sprouts, and braised tofu with green onions. The Chinese toon was picked fresh from the trees, and the magnolia buds are the tender spring shoots of the goldenrain tree, a classic wild vegetable in the Beijing suburbs.
On May 5th, we went to Huairou for a post-holiday gathering at Xiangyu Homestay in Lianhuachi Village. It is run by Hui Muslims from the Tongzhou Great Mosque, and they specialize in rainbow trout and farmhouse dishes.
The homestay is in Lianhuachi Village, Huairou, right behind Mutianyu. You follow the valley from Yanqi Lake and pass Shentangyu to get there. I heard there was a huge traffic jam here on May 4th, but it was much less crowded when we went.
You must eat rainbow trout when you come to Huairou. Rainbow trout only survive in running water, so it is hard to find in the city. Their roasted fish is very well-made and has a great texture. For our meal, we had braised beef with potatoes, spicy stir-fried chicken, boiled beef, scrambled eggs with Chinese toon, celery with dried tofu, stewed tofu, stewed meatballs, mixed wild vegetables, and deep-fried prickly ash buds (huajiaoya), with green onion pancakes (conghuabing) as our staple food. The meatballs served at the start were a bit salty, but they adjusted immediately after we mentioned it, and the following dishes were all light. The Chinese toon and prickly ash buds were picked fresh from the trees; the main reason to eat in the mountains is for that fresh taste. The green onion pancakes were also pan-fried to order, which made them quite fragrant. The spicy chicken was a bit like fried chicken; it was tender inside but the flavor didn't soak in. The braised beef was cooked until very tender, and I thought it tasted good.
After eating, we went to play in the water at Shentangyu Village in Huairou. Parking in the village costs 20 yuan for anything over 30 minutes. There is a row of poplar trees by the water that provides shade, so it is not too sunny. We bought water clothes for the kids on the spot, but they still got quite wet sitting in the water, so I suggest bringing an extra set of clothes for the children. The water temperature in May is still a bit cool, but the sun is warm, making it perfect for outdoor activities.
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Best Halal Food in Changsha: Hunan Hui Muslim Stir-Fry at a Local Restaurant
Reposted from the web
Summary: This Changsha halal food note visits a rare local Hunan-style Hui Muslim stir-fry restaurant, keeping the dishes, travel context, and local food details from the Chinese source.
I visited mosques in Shaoyang, Hunan, during the May Day holiday. I flew to Changsha first and had lunch there. Changsha has two noodle shops run by Hui Muslims surnamed Su from Shaoyang, and one stir-fry and noodle shop run by Hui Muslims surnamed Zhang from Changde. Since our destination was Shaoyang, we chose the Changde stir-fry restaurant.
The surname Zhang is common among Hui Muslims in Hunan. Their ancestor was named Pu Luode, originally from Sanhe, Langfang, Hebei. In 1368 (the first year of the Hongwu reign of the Ming Dynasty), he was appointed commander of the Baoqing Guard in Hunan, and the Ming Emperor Taizu granted him the surname Zhang. His grandson, Zhang Hu, served as a thousand-household commander in Changde, Hunan, during the Yongle reign. He was transferred to the Imperial Guard in Beijing during the Xuande reign, retired to Changde in 1452 (the third year of the Jingtai reign of the Ming Dynasty), and settled in Badouwan, Wuling (now Dingcheng District, Changde). His descendants are known as the Badouwan Zhang clan.
The owner of the Zhang Beef Noodle Shop knows how to say salaam. She is very friendly, recommends special dishes, and kindly asked us about our spice preference. The shop is located in the storefronts of the Hunan Islamic Association compound. Drivers can park inside the association's courtyard. There is a Xiangmu Home Hotel in the courtyard. An older lady at the front desk holds the key to the gate barrier, but she is difficult to talk to, so you have to ask the restaurant owner to speak with her.
The restaurant stays open all afternoon. When we were there, the customers were all Hui Muslims traveling from out of town, and everyone mentioned how hard it is to find places to eat in Changsha. We ordered stir-fried yellow beef, minced beef with tofu, and braised beef rice noodles. Their signature dish is Changde stewed noodles (dunfen), which is a clay pot filled with various parts of the cow, served with the noodles on the side. However, we really wanted to try Hunan Hui Muslim stir-fry.
Stir-fried yellow beef is a specialty of Hunan Hui Muslims. It is flash-fried over high heat for one minute, making the beef tender and fresh. The green chili peppers taste sweet at first with a mild spicy aftertaste, which is fine for people from the north. The minced beef with tofu was also very good and goes well with rice.
The braised beef rice noodles are thin and chewy, and you just can't stop slurping them. The soup base tastes a bit like braised beef instant noodles. I just realized that the instant noodles I ate as a child were modeled after this southern-style braised beef flavor. After the food is ready, you can add toppings at the condiment station, such as pickled vegetables (suancai), soybeans, and pickled radishes, which all add great flavor. The owner said the chili at their condiment station is extremely spicy, so we didn't dare to add any.
They use quite a bit of oil, which I think is a unique feature, but those who prefer lighter food should tell the shop in advance.
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Summary: This Changsha halal food note visits a rare local Hunan-style Hui Muslim stir-fry restaurant, keeping the dishes, travel context, and local food details from the Chinese source.
I visited mosques in Shaoyang, Hunan, during the May Day holiday. I flew to Changsha first and had lunch there. Changsha has two noodle shops run by Hui Muslims surnamed Su from Shaoyang, and one stir-fry and noodle shop run by Hui Muslims surnamed Zhang from Changde. Since our destination was Shaoyang, we chose the Changde stir-fry restaurant.
The surname Zhang is common among Hui Muslims in Hunan. Their ancestor was named Pu Luode, originally from Sanhe, Langfang, Hebei. In 1368 (the first year of the Hongwu reign of the Ming Dynasty), he was appointed commander of the Baoqing Guard in Hunan, and the Ming Emperor Taizu granted him the surname Zhang. His grandson, Zhang Hu, served as a thousand-household commander in Changde, Hunan, during the Yongle reign. He was transferred to the Imperial Guard in Beijing during the Xuande reign, retired to Changde in 1452 (the third year of the Jingtai reign of the Ming Dynasty), and settled in Badouwan, Wuling (now Dingcheng District, Changde). His descendants are known as the Badouwan Zhang clan.
The owner of the Zhang Beef Noodle Shop knows how to say salaam. She is very friendly, recommends special dishes, and kindly asked us about our spice preference. The shop is located in the storefronts of the Hunan Islamic Association compound. Drivers can park inside the association's courtyard. There is a Xiangmu Home Hotel in the courtyard. An older lady at the front desk holds the key to the gate barrier, but she is difficult to talk to, so you have to ask the restaurant owner to speak with her.
The restaurant stays open all afternoon. When we were there, the customers were all Hui Muslims traveling from out of town, and everyone mentioned how hard it is to find places to eat in Changsha. We ordered stir-fried yellow beef, minced beef with tofu, and braised beef rice noodles. Their signature dish is Changde stewed noodles (dunfen), which is a clay pot filled with various parts of the cow, served with the noodles on the side. However, we really wanted to try Hunan Hui Muslim stir-fry.
Stir-fried yellow beef is a specialty of Hunan Hui Muslims. It is flash-fried over high heat for one minute, making the beef tender and fresh. The green chili peppers taste sweet at first with a mild spicy aftertaste, which is fine for people from the north. The minced beef with tofu was also very good and goes well with rice.
The braised beef rice noodles are thin and chewy, and you just can't stop slurping them. The soup base tastes a bit like braised beef instant noodles. I just realized that the instant noodles I ate as a child were modeled after this southern-style braised beef flavor. After the food is ready, you can add toppings at the condiment station, such as pickled vegetables (suancai), soybeans, and pickled radishes, which all add great flavor. The owner said the chili at their condiment station is extremely spicy, so we didn't dare to add any.
They use quite a bit of oil, which I think is a unique feature, but those who prefer lighter food should tell the shop in advance.
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Hidden Mosques in Guangyuan Qingchuan: Qingxi Ancient Town and Sichuan Hui Muslim History
Reposted from the web
Summary: This Sichuan road trip reaches Qingxi Ancient Town in Qingchuan County, Guangyuan, recording the old town, local Muslim history, route details, and mosque-related travel notes.
I drove from Dayuan Hui Muslim Township in Qingchuan County, Guangyuan, to Qingxi Ancient City for iftar. Although there were only two tables and ten people at Qingxi Mosque, the atmosphere was wonderful and felt just like being at home. Aunties cooked dishes on-site at the mosque, and elders brought food from their homes, making it very heartwarming. We ate the Qingxi Hui Muslim nine-bowl feast (jiudawan), which is a standard banquet meal. It included clear-stewed meat, crispy fried meat (xiao su rou), steamed meat with flour (fen zheng rou), braised chicken, and cabbage with kelp. It was a mix of meat and vegetables, all very home-style. After the meal, the elders and the imam kindly gave me some stewed meat, fried dough (youxiang), and fruit to eat for suhoor.
Qingxi Ancient City was an important pass on the Yinping Road. It is known as the gateway to northern Sichuan and the throat of western Shu, and it has always been a place where merchants gathered and armies fought for control. Since the Ming Dynasty, Hui Muslims from Shaanxi and Gansu settled in Qingxi along the ancient Yinping Road, and Qingxi Mosque was officially built in 1546, the 25th year of the Jiajing reign of the Ming Dynasty. The current mosque buildings were rebuilt in 1982.
There is a 400-year-old honey locust tree in the mosque, which is an important witness to the ancient site.
Fried dough (youxiang) and chicken for suhoor.
Qingxi Ancient City at night. There are many Hui Muslim eateries on the street. You can find fried cakes (yougao), crispy biscuits (cuisubing), stir-fry restaurants serving braised meat, steamed meat with flour (fen zheng rou), and twice-cooked meat (huiguorou), snack shops selling beef stewed with flatbread (niurou huimo) and wontons (chaoshou), and restaurants serving copper hot pot. The variety is very rich. Some ancient towns and cities in Sichuan with rich Hui Muslim food, such as Dujiangyan, Songpan, and Langzhong, are especially worth visiting. I think Qingxi Ancient Town has fewer tourists, and it is a great place to escape the summer heat deep in the Qinba Mountains.
The area outside the east gate of Qingxi Ancient City is where most Hui Muslims live. It has now been unified into a Hui Muslim cultural area with many Hui Muslim restaurants and snack shops where you can eat beef copper hot pot and the Hui Muslim nine-bowl feast (jiudawan).
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Summary: This Sichuan road trip reaches Qingxi Ancient Town in Qingchuan County, Guangyuan, recording the old town, local Muslim history, route details, and mosque-related travel notes.
I drove from Dayuan Hui Muslim Township in Qingchuan County, Guangyuan, to Qingxi Ancient City for iftar. Although there were only two tables and ten people at Qingxi Mosque, the atmosphere was wonderful and felt just like being at home. Aunties cooked dishes on-site at the mosque, and elders brought food from their homes, making it very heartwarming. We ate the Qingxi Hui Muslim nine-bowl feast (jiudawan), which is a standard banquet meal. It included clear-stewed meat, crispy fried meat (xiao su rou), steamed meat with flour (fen zheng rou), braised chicken, and cabbage with kelp. It was a mix of meat and vegetables, all very home-style. After the meal, the elders and the imam kindly gave me some stewed meat, fried dough (youxiang), and fruit to eat for suhoor.
Qingxi Ancient City was an important pass on the Yinping Road. It is known as the gateway to northern Sichuan and the throat of western Shu, and it has always been a place where merchants gathered and armies fought for control. Since the Ming Dynasty, Hui Muslims from Shaanxi and Gansu settled in Qingxi along the ancient Yinping Road, and Qingxi Mosque was officially built in 1546, the 25th year of the Jiajing reign of the Ming Dynasty. The current mosque buildings were rebuilt in 1982.
There is a 400-year-old honey locust tree in the mosque, which is an important witness to the ancient site.
Fried dough (youxiang) and chicken for suhoor.
Qingxi Ancient City at night. There are many Hui Muslim eateries on the street. You can find fried cakes (yougao), crispy biscuits (cuisubing), stir-fry restaurants serving braised meat, steamed meat with flour (fen zheng rou), and twice-cooked meat (huiguorou), snack shops selling beef stewed with flatbread (niurou huimo) and wontons (chaoshou), and restaurants serving copper hot pot. The variety is very rich. Some ancient towns and cities in Sichuan with rich Hui Muslim food, such as Dujiangyan, Songpan, and Langzhong, are especially worth visiting. I think Qingxi Ancient Town has fewer tourists, and it is a great place to escape the summer heat deep in the Qinba Mountains.
The area outside the east gate of Qingxi Ancient City is where most Hui Muslims live. It has now been unified into a Hui Muslim cultural area with many Hui Muslim restaurants and snack shops where you can eat beef copper hot pot and the Hui Muslim nine-bowl feast (jiudawan).
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Hidden Shia Mosques in Asia: India, Thailand, Myanmar and Singapore Muslim Heritage, Part One
Reposted from the web
Summary: This first part introduces Shia mosques, ashurkhanas, jamatkhanas, and Muslim heritage sites across India, Thailand, Myanmar, and Singapore, including Hyderabad, Bangkok, Yangon, and Singapore.
India
Bad-e-Shahi Ashur Khana in Hyderabad
Thailand
Sheikh Ahmad gongbei in Ayutthaya
Kudi Luang mosque in Bangkok
Kudi Charoenphat in Bangkok
Phadungtham Islam mosque in Bangkok
Dilfulla mosque in Bangkok
Safee mosque in Bangkok
Goowatil Islam Mosque in Bangkok
Myanmar
Mughal Shia Mosque in Yangon
Hazarat Abbas (A. S) Astana Alamdar-e-Husayn in Yangon.
Punja Mosque in Yangon.
Dawoodi Bohra Saifee Mosque in Yangon.
His Highness The Agakhan Building Myanmar Ismaili Khoja Jamatkhana in Yangon.
Singapore
Al-Burhani mosque in Singapore
Indian Heritage Centre in Singapore
Asian Civilisations Museum in Singapore
India
Bad-e-Shahi Ashur Khana in Hyderabad
Shia Islam grew in the Deccan Plateau of South India during the Bahmani Sultanate (1347-1527). After the Bahmani Sultanate fell, the Qutb Shahi dynasty made Shia Islam the state religion in 1518.
Hyderabad became a center for Shia culture in India during the 16th and 17th centuries. The fifth sultan of the Qutb Shahi dynasty, Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah, was a talented Urdu poet and the first person to write Marsiya (Shia mourning poetry for Imam Hussain) in Urdu. Shia scholar and scientist Mir Muhammad Momin arrived at the Qutb Shahi dynasty in 1581 and helped design and build the city of Hyderabad in 1591.
Bad-e-Shahi Ashur Khana is the Shia center of Hyderabad and the first Imambargah in India. An Imambargah, also called a Hussainiya, is a hall where Shia Muslims of the Twelver branch mourn Imam Hussain. It is busiest here during Ashura, but there are also events held every week.
The fifth sultan of the Qutb Shahi dynasty, Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah, ordered the construction of Bad-e-Shahi Ashur Khana in 1594, and the seventh sultan, Abdullah Qutb Shah, added tiles in 1611. In 1764, the second Nizam of the Asaf Jahi dynasty, Ali Khan, added a wooden colonnade, an outer hall, and a gate. The caretakers here are from a hereditary family, and the current one is the 11th Mutawalli Mujawer, Mir Nawazish Ali Moosvi.
The Arabic calligraphy and floral tiles inside the building use the Cuerda Seca technique, which was created by Persian craftsmen. This technique uses lines drawn with dark pigment mixed with grease on the tile surface to separate different colors of water-soluble glaze, leaving dark lines in every area. Scholars believe the Cuerda Seca technique originated in 10th-century Andalusia (southern Spain) and later spread to Asia through Arabs and Persians. The Mughal Empire frequently used this technique to fire tiles during the 17th century.
When we visited Hyderabad, we happened to catch a Shia event at Bad-e-Shahi Ashur Khana.
Thailand
Sheikh Ahmad gongbei in Ayutthaya
Between the 16th and 18th centuries, Shia merchants from the Persian Safavid dynasty traveled along the Indian Ocean coast to trade in Siam, where they were warmly welcomed and received with high honors by the Siamese royal family. Some Persian merchants married locals, settled down, and held important positions in the Siamese court.
Sheikh Ahmad was born in Qom, Persia, in 1543. He arrived in Ayutthaya, Thailand, with his brother in the early 17th century to trade, married a Thai wife, and settled there. Sheikh Ahmad was very successful in business and became one of the wealthiest foreign merchants of his time. He met the Thai royal treasurer and, with his help, connected with the Thai royal family and began participating in Thai trade affairs. After gaining the trust of King Songtham (who reigned from 1610 to 1628), he was appointed Chao Kromma Tha Khwa to manage trade, shipping, and diplomatic affairs between Thailand and the west, including India, Persia, Arabia, and Europe. He was also appointed as the first Chula Rajmontri in Thai history, overseeing religious affairs for the whole country. In 1611, after helping the Thai king defeat Japanese merchants who attempted a coup, he was appointed Samuhanayok, becoming the Grand Vizier of Thailand.
In the early 17th century, Sheikh Ahmad built the Kudi Chao Sen Shia mosque within the city of Ayutthaya, which is the oldest mosque inside the city walls of Ayutthaya. After Sheikh Ahmad passed away in 1631, he was buried near the mosque.
In the late 17th century, the Shia community continued to thrive in Ayutthaya. During the month of Muharram in 1656, Sheikh Ahmad’s son and other Shia nobles helped King Narai take the throne. To show his gratitude, King Narai gave the Ayutthaya Shia community all the items needed for their Ashura ceremonies during Muharram and established a royal guard made up of 500 Shia men. In 1685, a French Jesuit missionary named Father Tachard recorded the grand scene of the Shia Ashura ceremonies in Ayutthaya. He wrote that the procession included over two thousand people, carrying models of the tombs of two saints along with many intricately crafted symbolic objects. The men changed their formations as they walked to the rhythm of drums. At the front of this massive procession were three or four beautifully decorated horses, and many people held long-handled lanterns to light the way for the entire group. The festival lasted for several nights, ending at five o'clock each morning.
Besides the Kudi Chao Sen mosque, Ayutthaya once had two other Shia mosque communities. The Khaek Pae mosque was located on the bank where the Chao Phraya River and the Pa Sak River meet, where Persian merchants once lived on boats, a place locals called the floating village. The Nurul Yamal mosque was in the northern suburbs of the old city of Ayutthaya, near an elephant kraal built by the Ayutthaya dynasty in 1580. According to the 1685 travelogue of the Persian Safavid mission to Ayutthaya, titled The Ship of Suleiman (Safine-ye Solaymani), hundreds of Persian merchants were involved in the profitable elephant trade at the kraal at that time.
After Ayutthaya fell in 1767 and Thailand moved its capital to Bangkok in 1782, the Persian-descended Shia community of Ayutthaya moved to Bangkok as well. Today, the Kudi Chao Sen mosque no longer exists, leaving only the nearby gongbei of Sheikh Ahmad, which was built in 1631.
Opposite the gongbei of Sheikh Ahmad is the Ayutthaya-Persia (Iranian Studies) Room, where the Iranian Embassy in Thailand occasionally holds cultural and memorial events.
Kudi Luang mosque in Bangkok
The Siamese capital of Ayutthaya fell in 1767, and after the capital moved to Bangkok in 1782, the Persian descendants from Ayutthaya followed. The first leader of the Persian-descended Shia community in Bangkok was Konkaew, the son of the last leader in Ayutthaya. In 1797, he began managing Siam's trade with the West and received a residence in the Thonburi area across the Chao Phraya River. People say he and 400 Shia followers established the Kudi Chao Sen mosque community, which became the primary Shia community in Bangkok.
After Konkaew passed away, his brother and the next eight direct descendants inherited the title, controlling Siam's trade rights with the West for a hundred years. In 1897, King Rama V renovated the Kudi Chao Sen mosque and renamed it the Kudi Luang Chao Sen mosque. In 1947, because of the construction of the Royal Thai Navy headquarters, the entire Kudi Luang mosque community was moved to its current location. The residents still live around the mosque, allowing the traditional culture of the Bangkok Shia community to survive.
The elders of the Bangkok Persian-descended Shia community who live around the mosque are not exclusive and are very welcoming to visitors (dosti).
After the prayer (namaz), I went to the Kudi Luang mosque again and ate chicken rice noodle rolls (changfen) with everyone, along with a special dessert made of palm sugar and pomelo that the Bangkok Persian descendants eat during the month of Muharram. Sharing and giving are key themes for Shia Muslims during the month of Muharram. Food is free during this time, and people gather to make the flowers used in the events. Some people in the mosque wear white pants and headscarves with bells hanging from their pant legs. They spend the first ten days of Muharram serving the mosque community with all their heart.
The most eye-catching thing in the mosque is a handsome, tall horse personally gifted by the King of Thailand. This horse represents Zuljanah, the warhorse of Imam Hussein. Zuljanah was raised by the noble Prophet from a young age and is known for loyalty, strength, endurance, and a spirit of sacrifice. During the Battle of Karbala, Zuljanah used its body to block arrows aimed at Imam Hussein. After Imam Hussein passed away, Zuljanah returned to his family covered in blood to warn them of an ambush. It died from its wounds after fulfilling this final duty. During Muharram, the horse is kept in the stables of Kudi Luang mosque, and people take turns walking it in the courtyard every night.
On the qibla wall of the main hall, the flagpole at the top is called an Alam. It represents the flag held by Abbas, the standard-bearer for Imam Hussein during the Battle of Karbala. The metal hand is called a Panja, which symbolizes the severed hands of Abbas. Abbas was the half-brother of Imam Hussein. He inherited the courage of Imam Ali and always held the flag of victory high on the battlefield. People say on the night of Ashura, he was blocked by enemy forces while returning from the Euphrates River with water. He fought alone until his arms were cut off and he was killed.
Above the niche in the qibla wall, the names of Allah, the noble Prophet, and the twelve Imams of the Shia are written. The Twelver branch is the largest branch of Shia Islam and is the state religion of Iran.
The Nakhl Gardani placed in the main hall symbolizes the funeral bier of Imam Hussein. It is decorated with a dagger and a turban (dastar) representing those used by Imam Hussein. During Ashura events, people carry the Nakhl Gardani to symbolize the funeral procession for Imam Hussein.
A Tadjah is also placed in the main hall to symbolize the tomb of Imam Hussein.
There is also a small decoration in the hall representing the youngest baby martyred at the Battle of Karbala, Ali Asghar, the six-month-old son of Imam Hussein. Records state that Imam Hussein held the thirsty Ali Asghar and asked the enemy for water for the child. The enemy fired an arrow that pierced the baby's throat and Imam Hussein's arm at the same time. Ali Asghar later became a symbol of innocent victims and the most painful mourning during Muharram events.
During the first ten nights of Muharram, Shia Muslims in Bangkok chant to commemorate Imam Hussein. During these sessions, people known as Rawda khwan tell the story of the martyrdom of Imam Hussein and his followers at the Battle of Karbala. The stories come from famous books, the most well-known being The Garden of the Martyrs (Rawdat al-shuhada) by the famous Timurid-era Persian writer Hussein Kashifi. Afterward, the imam also gives a sermon (waaz) in Thai, helping everyone learn about the bravery, fearlessness, and spirit of sacrifice shown by Imam Hussein and his followers at the Battle of Karbala.
The Nakhl Gardani used during Ashura events symbolizes the coffin of Imam Hussain, and the entire Ashura event is essentially a reenactment of his funeral.
Kudi Charoenphat in Bangkok
In the late 18th and early 19th centuries, Akayi, the second leader of the Persian Shia community in Bangkok, built Kudi Charoenphat at the heart of the community. This is an Imambara hall used by the Shia for mourning ceremonies.
An Imambara, also called a Hussainiya or Ashurkhana, is a hall where the Twelver Shia branch holds ceremonies to mourn Imam Hussain. On the Day of Ashura (the 10th of Muharram) in 680 AD, the Prophet's grandson, Imam Hussain, was martyred in the Battle of Karbala. Since then, the Shia hold grand mourning ceremonies every year in the first month of the Islamic calendar (the month of Ashura), the second month (40 days after Ashura), and the ninth month (Ramadan). Except for the most important processions, most ceremonies take place inside the Imambara hall.
The wood carvings on the hall are in the Gingerbread style, which was popular in Thailand in the late 19th century. This architectural style originated in Victorian England during the 19th century and was later developed by British companies logging teak in Thailand, who blended it with local Thai decorative elements. Due to high construction and maintenance costs, this architectural style gradually became a thing of the past after the 20th century.
The Nakhl Gardani used during Ashura events.
A street view of the Persian community in Bangkok. Many walls of Persian-descendant homes and shops here display the 'Lion of God' (Asadullah), which refers to Imam Ali and serves as a symbol of the Shia.
Phadungtham Islam mosque in Bangkok
The center of the Persian community in Bangkok is the Phadungtham Islam mosque. This mosque was first built in 1938 and was rebuilt into its current structure in 1979.
The new mosque features a Persian-style Iwan gate, modeled after the Imam Reza Shrine, a Shia holy site in Iran.
The clay tablet placed before a prayer rug is called a Turbah in Arabic and a Mohr in Persian. Twelver Shia Muslims touch their foreheads to it during namaz. Some clay tablets feature images of the Imam Hussain Shrine, indicating they are made from the soil of Karbala, where Imam Hussain was martyred.
Dilfulla mosque in Bangkok
The Indian Shia community is located on the southwest side of the Persian Shia community in Bangkok, separated by Itsaraphap Road.
For hundreds of years, Shia merchants from India set out from the cities of Surat and Ahmedabad in Gujarat, traveling across the Indian Ocean to Siam for maritime trade. Because of their shared faith, they often collaborated in business with the Persians, and later intermarried, forming a powerful trade network in Siam. In the early 19th century, Shia merchants from Mumbai began opening shops near the Persian community along the Chao Phraya River. Thanks to the favoritism of Persian officials who controlled Western trade, these Indian Shia businesses could obtain state-controlled export goods from Siam under very favorable conditions.
Adam Ali was a merchant and adventurer from Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh, India. In the early 19th century, he left the city of Surat with fine Indian textiles and sailed across the Indian Ocean to Bangkok many times for trade. Through connections with local Persian-descended nobles in Bangkok who shared his Shia faith, he was able to meet many Siamese nobles. These nobles often visited his merchant ships and bought many high-quality textiles. With the profits from selling textiles, Adam was able to build a pier and warehouse along the Yai Canal near the Persian community, where he opened a textile printing and dyeing factory. The factory workers were all Shia Muslims he brought from India, and he built houses and a mosque near the factory for them, which formed Bangkok's Indian Shia community.
The center of the community is the Dilfulla mosque. It also displays the Shia symbol, the Lion of Allah (Huda zhi shi), and while the interior is slightly simpler than Persian-style mosques, you can still see Shia features in the candlesticks, flowers, and pulpit. Today, the descendants of Adam's family still live around the mosque and have served as imam for generations.
Inside the main hall of the Dilfulla mosque are incense burners, a pulpit (minbar), scripture boxes, and flowers.
Next to the mosque is the cemetery for Indian Shia Muslims, where you can see some graves covered in flowers, a memorial style very typical of South Asia.
Safee mosque in Bangkok
In the early 19th century, Phraya Si Phiphat, who managed the Siamese royal warehouses, was a descendant of Shia Muslims from the Ayutthaya period. Although he had long since converted to Buddhism, he still provided many conveniences to Indian Shia merchants. At that time, Phraya Si Phiphat oversaw the construction of rows of royal warehouses and piers in the Khlong San area on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River. After Britain and Siam signed the Bowring Treaty in 1855, the Siamese royal family was forced to give up its trade monopoly, and the royal warehouses were emptied. Phraya Si Phiphat then rented these warehouses to Indian Shia Muslims, leading to the emergence of a new Indian Shia community here.
The first Indian Shia merchant to rent a royal warehouse was A. T. E. Maskati, a textile dealer from Ahmedabad in Gujarat. He had already opened a shop near the Persian Shia community in Bangkok in the early 19th century. In 1856, he opened a weaving and dyeing factory inside the royal warehouses, employing over 600 Indian Shia workers at its peak. He and other Indian Shia merchants built a mosque in the warehouse area, naming it Toek Khaw (white brick) mosque after the warehouse's whitewashed walls, which was later renamed Safee mosque.
Safee mosque is located deep inside the royal warehouses and can only be reached through a hidden alley in the middle of the warehouse complex. Most of the Indian merchants who once had shops nearby eventually returned to India, and only a few married and had children in Bangkok, with their descendants still living here today.
This mosque belongs to a small branch of Ismailism called the Dawoodi Bohras. This branch has only a few million followers, most of whom live in Gujarat, India, and Karachi, Pakistan. Today, a photo of Mufaddal Saifuddin, the 53rd leader of the Dawoodi Bohras who succeeded in 2014, can be seen on the wall of the Sefi mosque.
The Dawoodi Bohra cemetery sits right next to the Persian community in Bangkok. Since the mid-19th century, it has been the final resting place for Shia Muslims from Indian cities like Surat, Mumbai, Sidhpur, Khambhat, Ratlam, Ahmedabad, and Dhoraji.
The Dawoodi Bohras are known for their focus on trade and their modern lifestyle. Most followers are merchants and entrepreneurs, and the word Bohra itself means trade in the Gujarati language.
The Dawoodi Bohras trace their origins back to the Shia Ismaili Fatimid Caliphate, which ruled North Africa from the 10th to the 12th century. In 1067, the 18th imam of the Fatimid Caliphate sent a man named Abd Allah from Yemen to Gujarat, India, to spread the faith, where he found great success. Since then, the followers in Gujarat have stayed in contact with Yemen and continued to grow. In 1567, the headquarters of this sect officially moved from Yemen to Gujarat.
Starting in the 19th century, members of the Dawoodi Bohras began traveling abroad to do business. The 43rd leader, Abdeali Saifuddin, invited 12,000 followers to the city of Surat in Gujarat. He provided them with food, work, and housing. The only condition was that they had to learn and practice professional skills, and he gave them startup capital once they finished their training. Many people chose to use this money to start businesses abroad. Some reached East Africa, while others came to Siam.
The Dawoodi Bohras have a unique culture that blends traditions from Yemen, Egypt, Pakistan, and India. They use a language called Lisan al-Dawat, which has a basic structure from Gujarati and vocabulary from Arabic.
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Summary: This first part introduces Shia mosques, ashurkhanas, jamatkhanas, and Muslim heritage sites across India, Thailand, Myanmar, and Singapore, including Hyderabad, Bangkok, Yangon, and Singapore.
India
Bad-e-Shahi Ashur Khana in Hyderabad
Thailand
Sheikh Ahmad gongbei in Ayutthaya
Kudi Luang mosque in Bangkok
Kudi Charoenphat in Bangkok
Phadungtham Islam mosque in Bangkok
Dilfulla mosque in Bangkok
Safee mosque in Bangkok
Goowatil Islam Mosque in Bangkok
Myanmar
Mughal Shia Mosque in Yangon
Hazarat Abbas (A. S) Astana Alamdar-e-Husayn in Yangon.
Punja Mosque in Yangon.
Dawoodi Bohra Saifee Mosque in Yangon.
His Highness The Agakhan Building Myanmar Ismaili Khoja Jamatkhana in Yangon.
Singapore
Al-Burhani mosque in Singapore
Indian Heritage Centre in Singapore
Asian Civilisations Museum in Singapore
India
Bad-e-Shahi Ashur Khana in Hyderabad
Shia Islam grew in the Deccan Plateau of South India during the Bahmani Sultanate (1347-1527). After the Bahmani Sultanate fell, the Qutb Shahi dynasty made Shia Islam the state religion in 1518.
Hyderabad became a center for Shia culture in India during the 16th and 17th centuries. The fifth sultan of the Qutb Shahi dynasty, Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah, was a talented Urdu poet and the first person to write Marsiya (Shia mourning poetry for Imam Hussain) in Urdu. Shia scholar and scientist Mir Muhammad Momin arrived at the Qutb Shahi dynasty in 1581 and helped design and build the city of Hyderabad in 1591.
Bad-e-Shahi Ashur Khana is the Shia center of Hyderabad and the first Imambargah in India. An Imambargah, also called a Hussainiya, is a hall where Shia Muslims of the Twelver branch mourn Imam Hussain. It is busiest here during Ashura, but there are also events held every week.
The fifth sultan of the Qutb Shahi dynasty, Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah, ordered the construction of Bad-e-Shahi Ashur Khana in 1594, and the seventh sultan, Abdullah Qutb Shah, added tiles in 1611. In 1764, the second Nizam of the Asaf Jahi dynasty, Ali Khan, added a wooden colonnade, an outer hall, and a gate. The caretakers here are from a hereditary family, and the current one is the 11th Mutawalli Mujawer, Mir Nawazish Ali Moosvi.
The Arabic calligraphy and floral tiles inside the building use the Cuerda Seca technique, which was created by Persian craftsmen. This technique uses lines drawn with dark pigment mixed with grease on the tile surface to separate different colors of water-soluble glaze, leaving dark lines in every area. Scholars believe the Cuerda Seca technique originated in 10th-century Andalusia (southern Spain) and later spread to Asia through Arabs and Persians. The Mughal Empire frequently used this technique to fire tiles during the 17th century.
When we visited Hyderabad, we happened to catch a Shia event at Bad-e-Shahi Ashur Khana.
Thailand
Sheikh Ahmad gongbei in Ayutthaya
Between the 16th and 18th centuries, Shia merchants from the Persian Safavid dynasty traveled along the Indian Ocean coast to trade in Siam, where they were warmly welcomed and received with high honors by the Siamese royal family. Some Persian merchants married locals, settled down, and held important positions in the Siamese court.
Sheikh Ahmad was born in Qom, Persia, in 1543. He arrived in Ayutthaya, Thailand, with his brother in the early 17th century to trade, married a Thai wife, and settled there. Sheikh Ahmad was very successful in business and became one of the wealthiest foreign merchants of his time. He met the Thai royal treasurer and, with his help, connected with the Thai royal family and began participating in Thai trade affairs. After gaining the trust of King Songtham (who reigned from 1610 to 1628), he was appointed Chao Kromma Tha Khwa to manage trade, shipping, and diplomatic affairs between Thailand and the west, including India, Persia, Arabia, and Europe. He was also appointed as the first Chula Rajmontri in Thai history, overseeing religious affairs for the whole country. In 1611, after helping the Thai king defeat Japanese merchants who attempted a coup, he was appointed Samuhanayok, becoming the Grand Vizier of Thailand.
In the early 17th century, Sheikh Ahmad built the Kudi Chao Sen Shia mosque within the city of Ayutthaya, which is the oldest mosque inside the city walls of Ayutthaya. After Sheikh Ahmad passed away in 1631, he was buried near the mosque.
In the late 17th century, the Shia community continued to thrive in Ayutthaya. During the month of Muharram in 1656, Sheikh Ahmad’s son and other Shia nobles helped King Narai take the throne. To show his gratitude, King Narai gave the Ayutthaya Shia community all the items needed for their Ashura ceremonies during Muharram and established a royal guard made up of 500 Shia men. In 1685, a French Jesuit missionary named Father Tachard recorded the grand scene of the Shia Ashura ceremonies in Ayutthaya. He wrote that the procession included over two thousand people, carrying models of the tombs of two saints along with many intricately crafted symbolic objects. The men changed their formations as they walked to the rhythm of drums. At the front of this massive procession were three or four beautifully decorated horses, and many people held long-handled lanterns to light the way for the entire group. The festival lasted for several nights, ending at five o'clock each morning.
Besides the Kudi Chao Sen mosque, Ayutthaya once had two other Shia mosque communities. The Khaek Pae mosque was located on the bank where the Chao Phraya River and the Pa Sak River meet, where Persian merchants once lived on boats, a place locals called the floating village. The Nurul Yamal mosque was in the northern suburbs of the old city of Ayutthaya, near an elephant kraal built by the Ayutthaya dynasty in 1580. According to the 1685 travelogue of the Persian Safavid mission to Ayutthaya, titled The Ship of Suleiman (Safine-ye Solaymani), hundreds of Persian merchants were involved in the profitable elephant trade at the kraal at that time.
After Ayutthaya fell in 1767 and Thailand moved its capital to Bangkok in 1782, the Persian-descended Shia community of Ayutthaya moved to Bangkok as well. Today, the Kudi Chao Sen mosque no longer exists, leaving only the nearby gongbei of Sheikh Ahmad, which was built in 1631.
Opposite the gongbei of Sheikh Ahmad is the Ayutthaya-Persia (Iranian Studies) Room, where the Iranian Embassy in Thailand occasionally holds cultural and memorial events.
Kudi Luang mosque in Bangkok
The Siamese capital of Ayutthaya fell in 1767, and after the capital moved to Bangkok in 1782, the Persian descendants from Ayutthaya followed. The first leader of the Persian-descended Shia community in Bangkok was Konkaew, the son of the last leader in Ayutthaya. In 1797, he began managing Siam's trade with the West and received a residence in the Thonburi area across the Chao Phraya River. People say he and 400 Shia followers established the Kudi Chao Sen mosque community, which became the primary Shia community in Bangkok.
After Konkaew passed away, his brother and the next eight direct descendants inherited the title, controlling Siam's trade rights with the West for a hundred years. In 1897, King Rama V renovated the Kudi Chao Sen mosque and renamed it the Kudi Luang Chao Sen mosque. In 1947, because of the construction of the Royal Thai Navy headquarters, the entire Kudi Luang mosque community was moved to its current location. The residents still live around the mosque, allowing the traditional culture of the Bangkok Shia community to survive.
The elders of the Bangkok Persian-descended Shia community who live around the mosque are not exclusive and are very welcoming to visitors (dosti).
After the prayer (namaz), I went to the Kudi Luang mosque again and ate chicken rice noodle rolls (changfen) with everyone, along with a special dessert made of palm sugar and pomelo that the Bangkok Persian descendants eat during the month of Muharram. Sharing and giving are key themes for Shia Muslims during the month of Muharram. Food is free during this time, and people gather to make the flowers used in the events. Some people in the mosque wear white pants and headscarves with bells hanging from their pant legs. They spend the first ten days of Muharram serving the mosque community with all their heart.
The most eye-catching thing in the mosque is a handsome, tall horse personally gifted by the King of Thailand. This horse represents Zuljanah, the warhorse of Imam Hussein. Zuljanah was raised by the noble Prophet from a young age and is known for loyalty, strength, endurance, and a spirit of sacrifice. During the Battle of Karbala, Zuljanah used its body to block arrows aimed at Imam Hussein. After Imam Hussein passed away, Zuljanah returned to his family covered in blood to warn them of an ambush. It died from its wounds after fulfilling this final duty. During Muharram, the horse is kept in the stables of Kudi Luang mosque, and people take turns walking it in the courtyard every night.
On the qibla wall of the main hall, the flagpole at the top is called an Alam. It represents the flag held by Abbas, the standard-bearer for Imam Hussein during the Battle of Karbala. The metal hand is called a Panja, which symbolizes the severed hands of Abbas. Abbas was the half-brother of Imam Hussein. He inherited the courage of Imam Ali and always held the flag of victory high on the battlefield. People say on the night of Ashura, he was blocked by enemy forces while returning from the Euphrates River with water. He fought alone until his arms were cut off and he was killed.
Above the niche in the qibla wall, the names of Allah, the noble Prophet, and the twelve Imams of the Shia are written. The Twelver branch is the largest branch of Shia Islam and is the state religion of Iran.
The Nakhl Gardani placed in the main hall symbolizes the funeral bier of Imam Hussein. It is decorated with a dagger and a turban (dastar) representing those used by Imam Hussein. During Ashura events, people carry the Nakhl Gardani to symbolize the funeral procession for Imam Hussein.
A Tadjah is also placed in the main hall to symbolize the tomb of Imam Hussein.
There is also a small decoration in the hall representing the youngest baby martyred at the Battle of Karbala, Ali Asghar, the six-month-old son of Imam Hussein. Records state that Imam Hussein held the thirsty Ali Asghar and asked the enemy for water for the child. The enemy fired an arrow that pierced the baby's throat and Imam Hussein's arm at the same time. Ali Asghar later became a symbol of innocent victims and the most painful mourning during Muharram events.
During the first ten nights of Muharram, Shia Muslims in Bangkok chant to commemorate Imam Hussein. During these sessions, people known as Rawda khwan tell the story of the martyrdom of Imam Hussein and his followers at the Battle of Karbala. The stories come from famous books, the most well-known being The Garden of the Martyrs (Rawdat al-shuhada) by the famous Timurid-era Persian writer Hussein Kashifi. Afterward, the imam also gives a sermon (waaz) in Thai, helping everyone learn about the bravery, fearlessness, and spirit of sacrifice shown by Imam Hussein and his followers at the Battle of Karbala.
The Nakhl Gardani used during Ashura events symbolizes the coffin of Imam Hussain, and the entire Ashura event is essentially a reenactment of his funeral.
Kudi Charoenphat in Bangkok
In the late 18th and early 19th centuries, Akayi, the second leader of the Persian Shia community in Bangkok, built Kudi Charoenphat at the heart of the community. This is an Imambara hall used by the Shia for mourning ceremonies.
An Imambara, also called a Hussainiya or Ashurkhana, is a hall where the Twelver Shia branch holds ceremonies to mourn Imam Hussain. On the Day of Ashura (the 10th of Muharram) in 680 AD, the Prophet's grandson, Imam Hussain, was martyred in the Battle of Karbala. Since then, the Shia hold grand mourning ceremonies every year in the first month of the Islamic calendar (the month of Ashura), the second month (40 days after Ashura), and the ninth month (Ramadan). Except for the most important processions, most ceremonies take place inside the Imambara hall.
The wood carvings on the hall are in the Gingerbread style, which was popular in Thailand in the late 19th century. This architectural style originated in Victorian England during the 19th century and was later developed by British companies logging teak in Thailand, who blended it with local Thai decorative elements. Due to high construction and maintenance costs, this architectural style gradually became a thing of the past after the 20th century.
The Nakhl Gardani used during Ashura events.
A street view of the Persian community in Bangkok. Many walls of Persian-descendant homes and shops here display the 'Lion of God' (Asadullah), which refers to Imam Ali and serves as a symbol of the Shia.
Phadungtham Islam mosque in Bangkok
The center of the Persian community in Bangkok is the Phadungtham Islam mosque. This mosque was first built in 1938 and was rebuilt into its current structure in 1979.
The new mosque features a Persian-style Iwan gate, modeled after the Imam Reza Shrine, a Shia holy site in Iran.
The clay tablet placed before a prayer rug is called a Turbah in Arabic and a Mohr in Persian. Twelver Shia Muslims touch their foreheads to it during namaz. Some clay tablets feature images of the Imam Hussain Shrine, indicating they are made from the soil of Karbala, where Imam Hussain was martyred.
Dilfulla mosque in Bangkok
The Indian Shia community is located on the southwest side of the Persian Shia community in Bangkok, separated by Itsaraphap Road.
For hundreds of years, Shia merchants from India set out from the cities of Surat and Ahmedabad in Gujarat, traveling across the Indian Ocean to Siam for maritime trade. Because of their shared faith, they often collaborated in business with the Persians, and later intermarried, forming a powerful trade network in Siam. In the early 19th century, Shia merchants from Mumbai began opening shops near the Persian community along the Chao Phraya River. Thanks to the favoritism of Persian officials who controlled Western trade, these Indian Shia businesses could obtain state-controlled export goods from Siam under very favorable conditions.
Adam Ali was a merchant and adventurer from Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh, India. In the early 19th century, he left the city of Surat with fine Indian textiles and sailed across the Indian Ocean to Bangkok many times for trade. Through connections with local Persian-descended nobles in Bangkok who shared his Shia faith, he was able to meet many Siamese nobles. These nobles often visited his merchant ships and bought many high-quality textiles. With the profits from selling textiles, Adam was able to build a pier and warehouse along the Yai Canal near the Persian community, where he opened a textile printing and dyeing factory. The factory workers were all Shia Muslims he brought from India, and he built houses and a mosque near the factory for them, which formed Bangkok's Indian Shia community.
The center of the community is the Dilfulla mosque. It also displays the Shia symbol, the Lion of Allah (Huda zhi shi), and while the interior is slightly simpler than Persian-style mosques, you can still see Shia features in the candlesticks, flowers, and pulpit. Today, the descendants of Adam's family still live around the mosque and have served as imam for generations.
Inside the main hall of the Dilfulla mosque are incense burners, a pulpit (minbar), scripture boxes, and flowers.
Next to the mosque is the cemetery for Indian Shia Muslims, where you can see some graves covered in flowers, a memorial style very typical of South Asia.
Safee mosque in Bangkok
In the early 19th century, Phraya Si Phiphat, who managed the Siamese royal warehouses, was a descendant of Shia Muslims from the Ayutthaya period. Although he had long since converted to Buddhism, he still provided many conveniences to Indian Shia merchants. At that time, Phraya Si Phiphat oversaw the construction of rows of royal warehouses and piers in the Khlong San area on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River. After Britain and Siam signed the Bowring Treaty in 1855, the Siamese royal family was forced to give up its trade monopoly, and the royal warehouses were emptied. Phraya Si Phiphat then rented these warehouses to Indian Shia Muslims, leading to the emergence of a new Indian Shia community here.
The first Indian Shia merchant to rent a royal warehouse was A. T. E. Maskati, a textile dealer from Ahmedabad in Gujarat. He had already opened a shop near the Persian Shia community in Bangkok in the early 19th century. In 1856, he opened a weaving and dyeing factory inside the royal warehouses, employing over 600 Indian Shia workers at its peak. He and other Indian Shia merchants built a mosque in the warehouse area, naming it Toek Khaw (white brick) mosque after the warehouse's whitewashed walls, which was later renamed Safee mosque.
Safee mosque is located deep inside the royal warehouses and can only be reached through a hidden alley in the middle of the warehouse complex. Most of the Indian merchants who once had shops nearby eventually returned to India, and only a few married and had children in Bangkok, with their descendants still living here today.
This mosque belongs to a small branch of Ismailism called the Dawoodi Bohras. This branch has only a few million followers, most of whom live in Gujarat, India, and Karachi, Pakistan. Today, a photo of Mufaddal Saifuddin, the 53rd leader of the Dawoodi Bohras who succeeded in 2014, can be seen on the wall of the Sefi mosque.
The Dawoodi Bohra cemetery sits right next to the Persian community in Bangkok. Since the mid-19th century, it has been the final resting place for Shia Muslims from Indian cities like Surat, Mumbai, Sidhpur, Khambhat, Ratlam, Ahmedabad, and Dhoraji.
The Dawoodi Bohras are known for their focus on trade and their modern lifestyle. Most followers are merchants and entrepreneurs, and the word Bohra itself means trade in the Gujarati language.
The Dawoodi Bohras trace their origins back to the Shia Ismaili Fatimid Caliphate, which ruled North Africa from the 10th to the 12th century. In 1067, the 18th imam of the Fatimid Caliphate sent a man named Abd Allah from Yemen to Gujarat, India, to spread the faith, where he found great success. Since then, the followers in Gujarat have stayed in contact with Yemen and continued to grow. In 1567, the headquarters of this sect officially moved from Yemen to Gujarat.
Starting in the 19th century, members of the Dawoodi Bohras began traveling abroad to do business. The 43rd leader, Abdeali Saifuddin, invited 12,000 followers to the city of Surat in Gujarat. He provided them with food, work, and housing. The only condition was that they had to learn and practice professional skills, and he gave them startup capital once they finished their training. Many people chose to use this money to start businesses abroad. Some reached East Africa, while others came to Siam.
The Dawoodi Bohras have a unique culture that blends traditions from Yemen, Egypt, Pakistan, and India. They use a language called Lisan al-Dawat, which has a basic structure from Gujarati and vocabulary from Arabic.
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Hidden Shia Mosques in Asia: Bangkok, Yangon and Singapore Muslim Heritage, Part Two
Reposted from the web
Summary: This second part continues the author’s visits to Shia mosques, jamatkhanas, and Muslim heritage sites in Thailand, Myanmar, and Singapore, with names and historical details kept intact.
Goowatil Islam Mosque in Bangkok
After the Toek Khaw (white brick) mosque was built in 1856, some Dawoodi Bohra Shia merchants from Surat, Gujarat, India, rented a piece of royal warehouse land a few hundred meters upstream. At that time, some Malay Sunni goldsmiths from Sai Buri District in Pattani Province, southern Thailand, also lived nearby. They were skilled at making an alloy of gold, silver, and copper called Nak in Thai.
In 1859, these two groups built a new mosque together. Because the nearby warehouses were built of red brick, it was called Toek Daeng (red brick) mosque, and later renamed Goowatil Islam Mosque.
Among the Indian Shia merchants in the Goowatil Islam Mosque community, Ali Asmail Nana was the most famous. He served as a translator for the Siamese Western Trade Department and earned the title Phra Phichet Sanphanit. He married and had children in Bangkok, and his family later succeeded in real estate development.
After the 20th century, Indian Shia merchants began moving their shops from the old royal warehouses to the busier Song Wat Road area in Bangkok's Chinatown. They started working in more promising professions like commission agents, bankers, insurance brokers, auctioneers, and real estate developers. With the changing times, you can no longer find those Indian Shia merchants at Goowatil Islam Mosque today.
Myanmar
Mughal Shia Mosque in Yangon
The Mughal Shia Mosque in Yangon, Myanmar, is the largest Shia mosque in Southeast Asia. It was founded in 1854 by Persian-Indian merchants who were the first to settle in Yangon.
The British East India Company opened a factory in Yangon starting in the 1790s, after which Persian and Indian Shia merchants began arriving in Yangon. These Shia friends (dosti) and others from Iran, Afghanistan, India, and elsewhere were collectively called Mughals by the Burmese people. After the 19th century, the Mughals often served as intermediaries and translators for exchanges between the British and the Burmese, becoming an important part of Yangon's foreign trade.
In 1852, the British officially occupied Yangon and made it the capital of British Burma. They hired army engineers to design and plan the grid-like city of Yangon, and the Shia community in Yangon officially established the Mughal Shia Mosque. The Mughal Shia Mosque was originally a teak wood building. Between 1914 and 1918, mosque board members from Isfahan, Shiraz, Khorasan, and Kabul in Iran and Afghanistan raised funds to rebuild it in its current Hyderabad style. The Shia faith developed on the Deccan Plateau in southern India during the 14th to 16th centuries. The Qutb Shahi dynasty declared Shia the state religion in 1518. Its capital, Hyderabad, was built in 1591 with the participation of Shia scholar and scientist Mir Muhammad Momin, and Hyderabad later became a center of Shia culture in India.
S Afsheen, a descendant of a board member of the Yangon Mughal Shia Mosque, wrote in his autobiography that his ancestors were originally court advisors to the Mughal Empire. In the 19th century, his great-grandfather's father, Hasan Ali Khorasanee, came to Yangon to do business, received favorable trade terms, and then developed a powerful trading company. Hasan Ali Khorasanee's son bought many properties in Yangon and operated leather and other trading businesses, which made the Khorasanee family one of the board members of the Mughal Shia Mosque.
The Mughal Shia Mosque is located on Shwe Bon Thar Road in Yangon's Indian quarter. This place was originally called Mughal Street and was the area where Indian shops in Yangon were most concentrated. The mosque consists of the street-facing Mughal Hall, the main prayer hall, and two tall minarets. The shops in the Mughal Hall facing the street are rented out.
The layout of the main hall at the Mughal Shia mosque in Yangon differs from Sunni mosques. The hall is split into separate areas for men and women, both covered with prayer rugs and featuring a mihrab to indicate the direction of prayer. The center area is used for the khutbah sermon and for mourning ceremonies held every year during the first month of the Islamic calendar.
Distinctive calligraphy art at the Mughal Shia mosque in Yangon. The main gate is carved with the Shia version of the Shahada, which includes one extra phrase compared to the Sunni version: 'Ali-un-Waliullah,' meaning Ali is the friend (wali) of Allah.
Hazarat Abbas (A. S) Astana Alamdar-e-Husayn in Yangon.
Located on 32nd Street next to the Sule Pagoda in the heart of Yangon's old town, there is a Shia ritual hall called Hazarat Abbas (A. S) Astana Alamdar-e-Husayn. Built in 1856, it is an important ritual center for the Shia community in Yangon. Unlike a standard mosque (masjid), this place is used by the Shia community for memorial ceremonies during the first and second months of the Islamic calendar and during Ramadan. It is an important way for the Shia community to build unity.
The hall has two floors. On the first floor, the words 'Live like Ali, die like Husayn' are written in English. On the second floor, the center displays a Punja, which symbolizes the severed hand of Imam Husayn’s standard-bearer, Abbas, during the Battle of Karbala. On both sides are tombs symbolizing those of Imam Husayn and the standard-bearer Abbas, who were martyred in the battle. An elder at the mosque showed me a book in Burmese about the standard-bearer Abbas.
In the Shia tradition, the standard-bearer Abbas is seen as the ultimate example of courage, love, sincerity, and self-sacrifice. Many Shia people take oaths in his name or give out food in his honor. The death of Abbas is the oldest passion play in the Shia tradition, and verses about him often appear in the decoration of Shia buildings.
Punja Mosque in Yangon.
Located on 38th Street on the east side of Yangon's old town, Punja Mosque was built in 1877 and is another Shia ritual center in Yangon. The Shia Shahada can also be seen on the mosque gate, with the extra phrase 'Ali is the friend of Allah' added at the end. The main hall is divided into two parts: the right side is a hall for mourning Imam Husayn, and the left side is a prayer hall. In the center of the right hall sits a tomb symbolizing Imam Husayn. To the left is a minbar pulpit for the Imam to deliver the khutbah, and on the right is a Punja, symbolizing the severed hand of Imam Husayn’s standard-bearer Abbas from the Battle of Karbala, which is how the mosque got its name.
Dawoodi Bohra Saifee Mosque in Yangon.
Besides the Twelver Shia, there are two other Shia minority ritual centers on Mughal Street in Yangon. Unfortunately, because there are so few members left, both have stopped operating.
Dawoodi Bohra Saifee Mosque is located on the west side of Mughal Street and was built by the Dawoodi Bohra sect in 1898. Starting in the 19th century, members of the Dawoodi Bohra sect from Gujarat, India, began traveling across the Indian Ocean to trade. Many became wealthy merchants and industrialists, and some settled in Yangon, which had a large Indian population.
His Highness The Agakhan Building Myanmar Ismaili Khoja Jamatkhana in Yangon.
Located on the east side of Mughal Street, His Highness The Agakhan Building Myanmar Ismaili Khoja Jamatkhana was built in 1949 by the Khoja people, who follow the Nizari Ismaili branch of Shia Islam. They belong to the same small branch as the Tajik people in China. The name Khoja comes from a term used by the 14th-century Ismaili scholar Pir Sadardin for his followers. Sadr al-Din was born in Persia and spent a long time preaching in South Asia. He promoted tolerance and integration between Islam and Hinduism, which led many merchants from the Lohana caste in Gujarat to convert.
The Khoja began trading in Mumbai, India, in the 18th century. Later, they settled in places across South Asia, Oman, East Africa, and Madagascar, and some also settled in Yangon. The Khoja community center is called Jamatkhana, or 'Friday prayer hall,' where they hold congregational prayers, wedding banquets, and various commemorative events.
Singapore
Al-Burhani Mosque
Al-Burhani Mosque is located on Hill Street, a main road in Singapore. It is the only Dawoodi Bohra Shia mosque in Singapore.
Starting in the 19th century, members of the Dawoodi Bohras from Gujarat, India, traveled along the Indian Ocean to trade. They began trading dry goods and spices in Singapore in 1875. After the 1920s, more Dawoodi Bohra merchants came from Gujarat to Singapore to do business, and the Dawoodi Bohra community in Singapore was officially formed.
Al-Burhani Mosque was first built in 1895 and was originally small. The high-rise building seen today is how it looked after being rebuilt in 1997. Unfortunately, there was no one inside the mosque when we visited, so we could not talk to anyone.
Indian Heritage Centre in Singapore
The Indian Heritage Centre in Little India, Singapore, uses a timeline in its main exhibition hall to tell the rich history and culture of Singapore's Indian community. It is divided into five parts: early contact, origins and migration, early Indian descendants in Singapore and Malaya, the social and political awakening of Indian descendants in Singapore and Malaya, and the contributions of Indian descendants to Singapore. Of course, this includes Indian Shia culture.
A Khoja turban worn by the Ismaili Shia Khoja people of Gujarat.
A procession of Indian Shia Muslims during the Ashura festival in the 19th century. On the right is a Ta'ziya, a model of the tombs of Imam Hussein and Hassan, and you can also see Alam flags.
An Alam flagpole carried by South Indian Shia Muslims during an Ashura procession in the 19th century.
Asian Civilisations Museum in Singapore
A porcelain plate for export ordered by Indian Shia Muslims in 1844-45, featuring Persian verses related to the martyrdom of Imam Hussein. The teardrop pattern used here is known as the 'boteh' motif in Persian.
A scroll painting of a Shia Ashura procession in southern India (possibly Chennai) from the 1830s to 1840s. The entire scroll is nearly 6 meters long. You can see a Ta'ziya (a model of the tombs of Imam Hussein and Hassan), Buraq (the mount of the Prophet Muhammad during his Night Journey), Alam flags, the Hand of Abbas, a Sipar shield, and a reenactment of the Battle of Karbala. You can also see the Chennai native infantry, people dressed as animals, and even elements of the Hindu Charak festival, which reflects India's multiculturalism.
A 'Hand of Abbas' from the late 19th to early 20th century.
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Summary: This second part continues the author’s visits to Shia mosques, jamatkhanas, and Muslim heritage sites in Thailand, Myanmar, and Singapore, with names and historical details kept intact.
Goowatil Islam Mosque in Bangkok
After the Toek Khaw (white brick) mosque was built in 1856, some Dawoodi Bohra Shia merchants from Surat, Gujarat, India, rented a piece of royal warehouse land a few hundred meters upstream. At that time, some Malay Sunni goldsmiths from Sai Buri District in Pattani Province, southern Thailand, also lived nearby. They were skilled at making an alloy of gold, silver, and copper called Nak in Thai.
In 1859, these two groups built a new mosque together. Because the nearby warehouses were built of red brick, it was called Toek Daeng (red brick) mosque, and later renamed Goowatil Islam Mosque.
Among the Indian Shia merchants in the Goowatil Islam Mosque community, Ali Asmail Nana was the most famous. He served as a translator for the Siamese Western Trade Department and earned the title Phra Phichet Sanphanit. He married and had children in Bangkok, and his family later succeeded in real estate development.
After the 20th century, Indian Shia merchants began moving their shops from the old royal warehouses to the busier Song Wat Road area in Bangkok's Chinatown. They started working in more promising professions like commission agents, bankers, insurance brokers, auctioneers, and real estate developers. With the changing times, you can no longer find those Indian Shia merchants at Goowatil Islam Mosque today.
Myanmar
Mughal Shia Mosque in Yangon
The Mughal Shia Mosque in Yangon, Myanmar, is the largest Shia mosque in Southeast Asia. It was founded in 1854 by Persian-Indian merchants who were the first to settle in Yangon.
The British East India Company opened a factory in Yangon starting in the 1790s, after which Persian and Indian Shia merchants began arriving in Yangon. These Shia friends (dosti) and others from Iran, Afghanistan, India, and elsewhere were collectively called Mughals by the Burmese people. After the 19th century, the Mughals often served as intermediaries and translators for exchanges between the British and the Burmese, becoming an important part of Yangon's foreign trade.
In 1852, the British officially occupied Yangon and made it the capital of British Burma. They hired army engineers to design and plan the grid-like city of Yangon, and the Shia community in Yangon officially established the Mughal Shia Mosque. The Mughal Shia Mosque was originally a teak wood building. Between 1914 and 1918, mosque board members from Isfahan, Shiraz, Khorasan, and Kabul in Iran and Afghanistan raised funds to rebuild it in its current Hyderabad style. The Shia faith developed on the Deccan Plateau in southern India during the 14th to 16th centuries. The Qutb Shahi dynasty declared Shia the state religion in 1518. Its capital, Hyderabad, was built in 1591 with the participation of Shia scholar and scientist Mir Muhammad Momin, and Hyderabad later became a center of Shia culture in India.
S Afsheen, a descendant of a board member of the Yangon Mughal Shia Mosque, wrote in his autobiography that his ancestors were originally court advisors to the Mughal Empire. In the 19th century, his great-grandfather's father, Hasan Ali Khorasanee, came to Yangon to do business, received favorable trade terms, and then developed a powerful trading company. Hasan Ali Khorasanee's son bought many properties in Yangon and operated leather and other trading businesses, which made the Khorasanee family one of the board members of the Mughal Shia Mosque.
The Mughal Shia Mosque is located on Shwe Bon Thar Road in Yangon's Indian quarter. This place was originally called Mughal Street and was the area where Indian shops in Yangon were most concentrated. The mosque consists of the street-facing Mughal Hall, the main prayer hall, and two tall minarets. The shops in the Mughal Hall facing the street are rented out.
The layout of the main hall at the Mughal Shia mosque in Yangon differs from Sunni mosques. The hall is split into separate areas for men and women, both covered with prayer rugs and featuring a mihrab to indicate the direction of prayer. The center area is used for the khutbah sermon and for mourning ceremonies held every year during the first month of the Islamic calendar.
Distinctive calligraphy art at the Mughal Shia mosque in Yangon. The main gate is carved with the Shia version of the Shahada, which includes one extra phrase compared to the Sunni version: 'Ali-un-Waliullah,' meaning Ali is the friend (wali) of Allah.
Hazarat Abbas (A. S) Astana Alamdar-e-Husayn in Yangon.
Located on 32nd Street next to the Sule Pagoda in the heart of Yangon's old town, there is a Shia ritual hall called Hazarat Abbas (A. S) Astana Alamdar-e-Husayn. Built in 1856, it is an important ritual center for the Shia community in Yangon. Unlike a standard mosque (masjid), this place is used by the Shia community for memorial ceremonies during the first and second months of the Islamic calendar and during Ramadan. It is an important way for the Shia community to build unity.
The hall has two floors. On the first floor, the words 'Live like Ali, die like Husayn' are written in English. On the second floor, the center displays a Punja, which symbolizes the severed hand of Imam Husayn’s standard-bearer, Abbas, during the Battle of Karbala. On both sides are tombs symbolizing those of Imam Husayn and the standard-bearer Abbas, who were martyred in the battle. An elder at the mosque showed me a book in Burmese about the standard-bearer Abbas.
In the Shia tradition, the standard-bearer Abbas is seen as the ultimate example of courage, love, sincerity, and self-sacrifice. Many Shia people take oaths in his name or give out food in his honor. The death of Abbas is the oldest passion play in the Shia tradition, and verses about him often appear in the decoration of Shia buildings.
Punja Mosque in Yangon.
Located on 38th Street on the east side of Yangon's old town, Punja Mosque was built in 1877 and is another Shia ritual center in Yangon. The Shia Shahada can also be seen on the mosque gate, with the extra phrase 'Ali is the friend of Allah' added at the end. The main hall is divided into two parts: the right side is a hall for mourning Imam Husayn, and the left side is a prayer hall. In the center of the right hall sits a tomb symbolizing Imam Husayn. To the left is a minbar pulpit for the Imam to deliver the khutbah, and on the right is a Punja, symbolizing the severed hand of Imam Husayn’s standard-bearer Abbas from the Battle of Karbala, which is how the mosque got its name.
Dawoodi Bohra Saifee Mosque in Yangon.
Besides the Twelver Shia, there are two other Shia minority ritual centers on Mughal Street in Yangon. Unfortunately, because there are so few members left, both have stopped operating.
Dawoodi Bohra Saifee Mosque is located on the west side of Mughal Street and was built by the Dawoodi Bohra sect in 1898. Starting in the 19th century, members of the Dawoodi Bohra sect from Gujarat, India, began traveling across the Indian Ocean to trade. Many became wealthy merchants and industrialists, and some settled in Yangon, which had a large Indian population.
His Highness The Agakhan Building Myanmar Ismaili Khoja Jamatkhana in Yangon.
Located on the east side of Mughal Street, His Highness The Agakhan Building Myanmar Ismaili Khoja Jamatkhana was built in 1949 by the Khoja people, who follow the Nizari Ismaili branch of Shia Islam. They belong to the same small branch as the Tajik people in China. The name Khoja comes from a term used by the 14th-century Ismaili scholar Pir Sadardin for his followers. Sadr al-Din was born in Persia and spent a long time preaching in South Asia. He promoted tolerance and integration between Islam and Hinduism, which led many merchants from the Lohana caste in Gujarat to convert.
The Khoja began trading in Mumbai, India, in the 18th century. Later, they settled in places across South Asia, Oman, East Africa, and Madagascar, and some also settled in Yangon. The Khoja community center is called Jamatkhana, or 'Friday prayer hall,' where they hold congregational prayers, wedding banquets, and various commemorative events.
Singapore
Al-Burhani Mosque
Al-Burhani Mosque is located on Hill Street, a main road in Singapore. It is the only Dawoodi Bohra Shia mosque in Singapore.
Starting in the 19th century, members of the Dawoodi Bohras from Gujarat, India, traveled along the Indian Ocean to trade. They began trading dry goods and spices in Singapore in 1875. After the 1920s, more Dawoodi Bohra merchants came from Gujarat to Singapore to do business, and the Dawoodi Bohra community in Singapore was officially formed.
Al-Burhani Mosque was first built in 1895 and was originally small. The high-rise building seen today is how it looked after being rebuilt in 1997. Unfortunately, there was no one inside the mosque when we visited, so we could not talk to anyone.
Indian Heritage Centre in Singapore
The Indian Heritage Centre in Little India, Singapore, uses a timeline in its main exhibition hall to tell the rich history and culture of Singapore's Indian community. It is divided into five parts: early contact, origins and migration, early Indian descendants in Singapore and Malaya, the social and political awakening of Indian descendants in Singapore and Malaya, and the contributions of Indian descendants to Singapore. Of course, this includes Indian Shia culture.
A Khoja turban worn by the Ismaili Shia Khoja people of Gujarat.
A procession of Indian Shia Muslims during the Ashura festival in the 19th century. On the right is a Ta'ziya, a model of the tombs of Imam Hussein and Hassan, and you can also see Alam flags.
An Alam flagpole carried by South Indian Shia Muslims during an Ashura procession in the 19th century.
Asian Civilisations Museum in Singapore
A porcelain plate for export ordered by Indian Shia Muslims in 1844-45, featuring Persian verses related to the martyrdom of Imam Hussein. The teardrop pattern used here is known as the 'boteh' motif in Persian.
A scroll painting of a Shia Ashura procession in southern India (possibly Chennai) from the 1830s to 1840s. The entire scroll is nearly 6 meters long. You can see a Ta'ziya (a model of the tombs of Imam Hussein and Hassan), Buraq (the mount of the Prophet Muhammad during his Night Journey), Alam flags, the Hand of Abbas, a Sipar shield, and a reenactment of the Battle of Karbala. You can also see the Chennai native infantry, people dressed as animals, and even elements of the Hindu Charak festival, which reflects India's multiculturalism.
A 'Hand of Abbas' from the late 19th to early 20th century.
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Best Halal Hainanese Food in Brunei: Mei Guang Tea House Breakfast and Dim Sum
Reposted from the web
Summary: This halal Hainanese food note returns to Mei Guang Tea House in Brunei for breakfast, dim sum, beef porridge, drinks, noodles, and other dishes from the original travel account.
Mei Guang Tea House in Brunei.
I went back to Mei Guang Tea House in the old town of Brunei for a Hainanese breakfast. The owner is from Hainan, his wife is from Xiamen, and the staff are all from Indonesia. Since they mostly serve the nearby office buildings, it is usually busy. It is quieter on weekends, and they have fewer steamed snacks available. We ordered a large chicken and radish bun (dabao), a red bean paste bun (doushabao), beef porridge with small fried dough sticks (youtiao), longan herbal tea, stir-fried noodles, and steamed dumplings (shaomai). Next time, if any friends (dosti) come on a weekday, they should try the other dishes. The Fuzhou-style 'fortune' rice noodle soup, dry-tossed silver needle noodles (laoshufen), and chicken intestine noodles are all worth eating.
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Summary: This halal Hainanese food note returns to Mei Guang Tea House in Brunei for breakfast, dim sum, beef porridge, drinks, noodles, and other dishes from the original travel account.
Mei Guang Tea House in Brunei.
I went back to Mei Guang Tea House in the old town of Brunei for a Hainanese breakfast. The owner is from Hainan, his wife is from Xiamen, and the staff are all from Indonesia. Since they mostly serve the nearby office buildings, it is usually busy. It is quieter on weekends, and they have fewer steamed snacks available. We ordered a large chicken and radish bun (dabao), a red bean paste bun (doushabao), beef porridge with small fried dough sticks (youtiao), longan herbal tea, stir-fried noodles, and steamed dumplings (shaomai). Next time, if any friends (dosti) come on a weekday, they should try the other dishes. The Fuzhou-style 'fortune' rice noodle soup, dry-tossed silver needle noodles (laoshufen), and chicken intestine noodles are all worth eating.
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Hidden Gongbei in Qingchuan: Dayuan Hui Township and Wulongshan Sufi Shrine in Guangyuan
Reposted from the web
Summary: This northern Sichuan travelogue visits Dayuan Hui Muslim Township in Qingchuan County and Wulongshan gongbei (Sufi shrine), preserving the route, people, and local Muslim heritage.
I left downtown Guangyuan in the morning and reached Dayuan Hui Ethnic Township, deep in the Qinba Mountains, after a trip of nearly two hours. I followed the Huaguo River up the valley and first arrived at Huaguo Village to visit the Huaguo Mosque (Huaguo Si). The mosque was closed, so I could only look around the courtyard.
Huaguo Mosque is a century-old site. It was built in 1925 at Majiakou in Huaguo Village, moved to its current location in Chenjiayuan in 1940, and rebuilt after the 2008 earthquake. You can still see the old stone column bases in the courtyard today.
Continuing up the Huaguo River, I reached Suojia Village, another Hui Muslim village. It is the oldest Hui village in all of Qingchuan, with a history of over 400 years. According to a tombstone in the village, Ma Jiyuan invited the Suo and Zhao families to move from Jingyang County, Shanxi, to settle by the Huagai River in 1580 (the eighth year of the Wanli reign of the Ming Dynasty). The Qingchuan County Annals record that in 1586 (the fourteenth year of the Wanli reign of the Ming Dynasty), three Hui Muslim families named Ma, Suo, and Hei from Ta'er Mosque in Jingyang County, Shanxi, moved to settle by the Huagai River in Dayuan Township, marking the arrival of Hui Muslims in the county.
At Suojia Mosque, the imam and village elders welcomed me warmly. I offered a donation (nietie), but they returned it to me, saying it was for travelers, and gave me oranges and apples instead. Suojia Mosque was built in the late Ming Dynasty, occupied in 1952, and torn down in 1967. Led by fellow Muslims Suo Fushou and Ma Minghuai, and through the efforts of Suo Jinming, Suo Wenjin, Ma Qinggao, Suo Jinzhu, Suo Fuguo, and Ma Wancai, the current Suojia Mosque was finally completed after four years of work from 2007 to 2011.
In Suojia Village, I clearly saw many people wearing white caps. Everyone was very friendly and smiled at me. Suojia Village sits deep in Wulong Mountain. With ducks and geese in the stream and fellow Muslims plowing the terraced fields with oxen, it is a peaceful scene, like a hidden paradise.
Suojia Village is definitely the most beautiful Hui Muslim village I have visited in Sichuan. I slowly climbed Wulong Mountain and looked out from the railing. Rolling green mountains stretched out, the quiet Huaguo River valley lay between them, and houses were scattered along the slopes. White walls and dark tiles dotted the landscape, while terraced fields formed a lush green pattern. The fresh mountain air hit my face, and everything I saw felt like a healing pastoral poem.
The village specializes in organic green tea, mountain delicacies, eco-friendly beef and lamb, and medicinal herbs grown in the forest. While walking through the village, I happened to meet a simple Hui Muslim grandmother driving her cattle and sheep into the deep mountains to graze, looking very relaxed. When she is not grazing them, she feeds the cattle and sheep pure corn cobs. Cattle and sheep raised on mountain spring water, wild mushrooms, and corn must taste great. I want to try some next time I have the chance.
On a cliff at the end of the Huaguo River valley sits the Wulong Mountain Gongbei, also called the Wulong Mountain Mosque (Qingzhen Ting), which belongs to the Jahriyya Sufi order (Gaderenye Menhuan). This cliffside shrine is comparable in scale to the Jiujing Gongbei.
Wulong Mountain Gongbei is where 'Grandpa An' (An Taiye) from Ding'an River practiced during his lifetime. Grandpa An was originally a Han Chinese from Anhui. During the Kangxi reign, he served as a magistrate in Langzhong County. Inspired by Qi Jingyi, the founder of the Jahriyya order, he resigned from his post to join the faith. Later, he went to Wulong Mountain to practice in a cave. After he passed away (gui zhen) in 1708 (the forty-seventh year of the Kangxi reign), the Wulong Mountain Gongbei was built. Inside the Gongbei, there is a plaque from the eighth year of the Xianfeng reign that reads 'Imperial Grace' (Sheng En).
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Summary: This northern Sichuan travelogue visits Dayuan Hui Muslim Township in Qingchuan County and Wulongshan gongbei (Sufi shrine), preserving the route, people, and local Muslim heritage.
I left downtown Guangyuan in the morning and reached Dayuan Hui Ethnic Township, deep in the Qinba Mountains, after a trip of nearly two hours. I followed the Huaguo River up the valley and first arrived at Huaguo Village to visit the Huaguo Mosque (Huaguo Si). The mosque was closed, so I could only look around the courtyard.
Huaguo Mosque is a century-old site. It was built in 1925 at Majiakou in Huaguo Village, moved to its current location in Chenjiayuan in 1940, and rebuilt after the 2008 earthquake. You can still see the old stone column bases in the courtyard today.
Continuing up the Huaguo River, I reached Suojia Village, another Hui Muslim village. It is the oldest Hui village in all of Qingchuan, with a history of over 400 years. According to a tombstone in the village, Ma Jiyuan invited the Suo and Zhao families to move from Jingyang County, Shanxi, to settle by the Huagai River in 1580 (the eighth year of the Wanli reign of the Ming Dynasty). The Qingchuan County Annals record that in 1586 (the fourteenth year of the Wanli reign of the Ming Dynasty), three Hui Muslim families named Ma, Suo, and Hei from Ta'er Mosque in Jingyang County, Shanxi, moved to settle by the Huagai River in Dayuan Township, marking the arrival of Hui Muslims in the county.
At Suojia Mosque, the imam and village elders welcomed me warmly. I offered a donation (nietie), but they returned it to me, saying it was for travelers, and gave me oranges and apples instead. Suojia Mosque was built in the late Ming Dynasty, occupied in 1952, and torn down in 1967. Led by fellow Muslims Suo Fushou and Ma Minghuai, and through the efforts of Suo Jinming, Suo Wenjin, Ma Qinggao, Suo Jinzhu, Suo Fuguo, and Ma Wancai, the current Suojia Mosque was finally completed after four years of work from 2007 to 2011.
In Suojia Village, I clearly saw many people wearing white caps. Everyone was very friendly and smiled at me. Suojia Village sits deep in Wulong Mountain. With ducks and geese in the stream and fellow Muslims plowing the terraced fields with oxen, it is a peaceful scene, like a hidden paradise.
Suojia Village is definitely the most beautiful Hui Muslim village I have visited in Sichuan. I slowly climbed Wulong Mountain and looked out from the railing. Rolling green mountains stretched out, the quiet Huaguo River valley lay between them, and houses were scattered along the slopes. White walls and dark tiles dotted the landscape, while terraced fields formed a lush green pattern. The fresh mountain air hit my face, and everything I saw felt like a healing pastoral poem.
The village specializes in organic green tea, mountain delicacies, eco-friendly beef and lamb, and medicinal herbs grown in the forest. While walking through the village, I happened to meet a simple Hui Muslim grandmother driving her cattle and sheep into the deep mountains to graze, looking very relaxed. When she is not grazing them, she feeds the cattle and sheep pure corn cobs. Cattle and sheep raised on mountain spring water, wild mushrooms, and corn must taste great. I want to try some next time I have the chance.
On a cliff at the end of the Huaguo River valley sits the Wulong Mountain Gongbei, also called the Wulong Mountain Mosque (Qingzhen Ting), which belongs to the Jahriyya Sufi order (Gaderenye Menhuan). This cliffside shrine is comparable in scale to the Jiujing Gongbei.
Wulong Mountain Gongbei is where 'Grandpa An' (An Taiye) from Ding'an River practiced during his lifetime. Grandpa An was originally a Han Chinese from Anhui. During the Kangxi reign, he served as a magistrate in Langzhong County. Inspired by Qi Jingyi, the founder of the Jahriyya order, he resigned from his post to join the faith. Later, he went to Wulong Mountain to practice in a cave. After he passed away (gui zhen) in 1708 (the forty-seventh year of the Kangxi reign), the Wulong Mountain Gongbei was built. Inside the Gongbei, there is a plaque from the eighth year of the Xianfeng reign that reads 'Imperial Grace' (Sheng En).
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Hidden Mosques in Guangyuan: Shanghe Street, Jialing River and Sichuan Hui Muslim History
Reposted from the web
Summary: This Guangyuan stop follows Shanghe Street by the Jialing River, old mosque history, Hui Muslim community details, and the next stage of a Spring Festival road trip through Sichuan.
I traveled back along the Jialing River gorge from the Nine Wells, with river breezes and mountain shadows for company, and arrived at the Shanghe Street Mosque in Guangyuan just in time for iftar. The mosque was undergoing repairs during my visit, so prayers and iftar were held on the second floor. The layout was simple, but the atmosphere was incredibly quiet and solemn.
Guangyuan sits at the junction of Sichuan, Shaanxi, and Gansu provinces, serving as a key hub for water and land transport. The worshippers here are diverse, including friends (dost) from the northwest, international students studying here, and local elders who have lived here for generations. Their shared devotion creates a peaceful and inclusive environment.
The iftar meal was simple and home-style: warm and flavorful beef stewed with carrots (huluobo dun niurou), refreshing stir-fried wood ear mushrooms with asparagus lettuce (wosun chao mu'er), light and soothing kelp stewed with white radish (bailuobo dun haidai), plus cold glass noodles (liangban fensi) and pickled radish. It was simple, solid, steady, and healing.
The Shanghe Street Mosque in Guangyuan stands quietly by the Jialing River, right outside the bustling Jialing River Pedestrian Street. River breezes blow gently, and tourist boats shuttle back and forth at the pier in a constant stream, full of the lively noise of the city. Stepping into the mosque to quietly perform Taraweeh prayers, I felt deeply moved. Just one window away, the world outside is filled with the hustle and bustle of traffic and the busy, worldly life. Inside the window is a clean and peaceful place for spiritual practice, a quiet harbor to rest one's heart. The noise of the world and the peace of the ancient mosque blend together, creating a moment of stillness and a spiritual home by the busy river.
Guangyuan had a mosque built on East Street in the old city as early as the Yuan and Ming dynasties, but it was destroyed at the end of the Ming Dynasty. After the Qing Dynasty, the commercial center of Guangyuan gradually moved from East Street to the banks of the Jialing River. Therefore, local Hui Muslims built the Shanghe Street Mosque in 1721 (the 60th year of the Kangxi reign), though some say it started in 1674, and it was expanded in 1777 (the 42nd year of the Qianlong reign).
The mosque now houses nine precious plaques from the Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China era. In the 1960s and 1970s, these plaques were covered with layers of paper and painted red with slogans about national unity, which is how they survived. These nine plaques are now hung on the walls of the stairs and corridors inside the mosque.
The 'Mosque' (Qingzhensi) plaque from 1748 (the 13th year of the Qianlong reign) was rebuilt by the community in the 10th year of the Republic of China.
The 'Recognize Allah as One' (Renzhu Wu'er) plaque from 1803 (the 8th year of the Jiaqing reign) was presented by the imperial-appointed Baturu Min Huaixi.
The 'Pure and True' (Qi Qing Li Zhen) plaque from 1811 (the 16th year of the Jiaqing reign) was set up by Geng Ziyu, a garrison commander in Guangyuan.
The small-character stone plaque from 1849 (the 29th year of the Daoguang reign) was written by Min Zhengfeng, the Governor of Guangxi, and records the historical facts of religious policy disputes regarding Hui Muslims during the Yongzheng reign and the imperial court's protection of Islam.
The 'Penetrating the Dust' (Guanche Weichen) plaque from 1873 (the 12th year of the Tongzhi reign) was set up by Jiang Guolin, an imperial-appointed garrison commander in Guangyuan.
The 'Only Pure and Only One' (Wei Jing Wei Yi) plaque from 1873 (the 12th year of the Tongzhi reign) was set up by Ma Dengchao, an imperial-appointed garrison officer in Guangyuan.
The 'Branch of the Holy Religion' (Zhi Wei Sheng Jiao) plaque from the Guangxu reign was presented by Mu Xiangfu, a garrison commander in Guangyuan.
The 'Spreading the Faith' (Dao Chan Tian Fang) plaque from 1925 was inscribed by Liu Cunhou, the Commissioner of Sichuan-Shaanxi Border Defense and Inspector of the Sichuan Army.
The 'Renewing Religious Affairs' (Jiaowu Weixin) plaque from 1932 was set up by the Guangyuan Hui Muslim Funeral Assistance Association.
After finishing the Taraweeh prayers, I went behind the mosque to have some beef stew with flatbread (huimo). Because Guangyuan is close to Shaanxi and Gansu, the locals love eating huimo, which makes their food different from the rest of Sichuan. Guangyuan huimo is very different from Shaanxi-style soaked flatbread (paomo) because the bread is served in large, soft chunks that do not fall apart. The broth is made from beef bones and includes plenty of glass noodles. It is popular to eat huimo for breakfast in Guangyuan, but restaurants actually sell it all day long. Zhouji and Lao Mu Jia on Shanghe Street both serve huimo, and Lao Mu Jia stays open later.
The Mu-surname Hui Muslims in Guangyuan migrated from Shaanxi and Gansu along the Jialing River during the mid-Qing Dynasty. Most live in Mujiapo in Datian Town, and they run restaurants in places like the Guangyuan city center and Jiange County where you can taste local Hui Muslim specialties.
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Summary: This Guangyuan stop follows Shanghe Street by the Jialing River, old mosque history, Hui Muslim community details, and the next stage of a Spring Festival road trip through Sichuan.
I traveled back along the Jialing River gorge from the Nine Wells, with river breezes and mountain shadows for company, and arrived at the Shanghe Street Mosque in Guangyuan just in time for iftar. The mosque was undergoing repairs during my visit, so prayers and iftar were held on the second floor. The layout was simple, but the atmosphere was incredibly quiet and solemn.
Guangyuan sits at the junction of Sichuan, Shaanxi, and Gansu provinces, serving as a key hub for water and land transport. The worshippers here are diverse, including friends (dost) from the northwest, international students studying here, and local elders who have lived here for generations. Their shared devotion creates a peaceful and inclusive environment.
The iftar meal was simple and home-style: warm and flavorful beef stewed with carrots (huluobo dun niurou), refreshing stir-fried wood ear mushrooms with asparagus lettuce (wosun chao mu'er), light and soothing kelp stewed with white radish (bailuobo dun haidai), plus cold glass noodles (liangban fensi) and pickled radish. It was simple, solid, steady, and healing.
The Shanghe Street Mosque in Guangyuan stands quietly by the Jialing River, right outside the bustling Jialing River Pedestrian Street. River breezes blow gently, and tourist boats shuttle back and forth at the pier in a constant stream, full of the lively noise of the city. Stepping into the mosque to quietly perform Taraweeh prayers, I felt deeply moved. Just one window away, the world outside is filled with the hustle and bustle of traffic and the busy, worldly life. Inside the window is a clean and peaceful place for spiritual practice, a quiet harbor to rest one's heart. The noise of the world and the peace of the ancient mosque blend together, creating a moment of stillness and a spiritual home by the busy river.
Guangyuan had a mosque built on East Street in the old city as early as the Yuan and Ming dynasties, but it was destroyed at the end of the Ming Dynasty. After the Qing Dynasty, the commercial center of Guangyuan gradually moved from East Street to the banks of the Jialing River. Therefore, local Hui Muslims built the Shanghe Street Mosque in 1721 (the 60th year of the Kangxi reign), though some say it started in 1674, and it was expanded in 1777 (the 42nd year of the Qianlong reign).
The mosque now houses nine precious plaques from the Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China era. In the 1960s and 1970s, these plaques were covered with layers of paper and painted red with slogans about national unity, which is how they survived. These nine plaques are now hung on the walls of the stairs and corridors inside the mosque.
The 'Mosque' (Qingzhensi) plaque from 1748 (the 13th year of the Qianlong reign) was rebuilt by the community in the 10th year of the Republic of China.
The 'Recognize Allah as One' (Renzhu Wu'er) plaque from 1803 (the 8th year of the Jiaqing reign) was presented by the imperial-appointed Baturu Min Huaixi.
The 'Pure and True' (Qi Qing Li Zhen) plaque from 1811 (the 16th year of the Jiaqing reign) was set up by Geng Ziyu, a garrison commander in Guangyuan.
The small-character stone plaque from 1849 (the 29th year of the Daoguang reign) was written by Min Zhengfeng, the Governor of Guangxi, and records the historical facts of religious policy disputes regarding Hui Muslims during the Yongzheng reign and the imperial court's protection of Islam.
The 'Penetrating the Dust' (Guanche Weichen) plaque from 1873 (the 12th year of the Tongzhi reign) was set up by Jiang Guolin, an imperial-appointed garrison commander in Guangyuan.
The 'Only Pure and Only One' (Wei Jing Wei Yi) plaque from 1873 (the 12th year of the Tongzhi reign) was set up by Ma Dengchao, an imperial-appointed garrison officer in Guangyuan.
The 'Branch of the Holy Religion' (Zhi Wei Sheng Jiao) plaque from the Guangxu reign was presented by Mu Xiangfu, a garrison commander in Guangyuan.
The 'Spreading the Faith' (Dao Chan Tian Fang) plaque from 1925 was inscribed by Liu Cunhou, the Commissioner of Sichuan-Shaanxi Border Defense and Inspector of the Sichuan Army.
The 'Renewing Religious Affairs' (Jiaowu Weixin) plaque from 1932 was set up by the Guangyuan Hui Muslim Funeral Assistance Association.
After finishing the Taraweeh prayers, I went behind the mosque to have some beef stew with flatbread (huimo). Because Guangyuan is close to Shaanxi and Gansu, the locals love eating huimo, which makes their food different from the rest of Sichuan. Guangyuan huimo is very different from Shaanxi-style soaked flatbread (paomo) because the bread is served in large, soft chunks that do not fall apart. The broth is made from beef bones and includes plenty of glass noodles. It is popular to eat huimo for breakfast in Guangyuan, but restaurants actually sell it all day long. Zhouji and Lao Mu Jia on Shanghe Street both serve huimo, and Lao Mu Jia stays open later.
The Mu-surname Hui Muslims in Guangyuan migrated from Shaanxi and Gansu along the Jialing River during the mid-Qing Dynasty. Most live in Mujiapo in Datian Town, and they run restaurants in places like the Guangyuan city center and Jiange County where you can taste local Hui Muslim specialties.
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Hidden Mosques Near Beijing: Huailai and Zhuolu Qingming Road Trip, Part Two
Reposted from the web
Summary: This second Huailai and Zhuolu road trip entry continues through Hebei mosque sites, local Hui Muslim stories, village routes, and Qingming travel notes from the original Chinese article.
In the last post, we had lunch in Shacheng Town, Huailai, Hebei, and visited two old mosques in Ganji Liang and Mayukou. See 'Visiting Old Mosques in Huailai and Zhuolu, Hebei during the Qingming Holiday (Part 1)'. In this part, we head to Xinbao'an Town and Zhuolu County to experience the local Islamic culture.
On April 5, we had breakfast in Xinbao'an Town, Huailai, Hebei. We arrived a bit late, so the soft tofu (laodoufu) and brown sugar flatbread (shaobing) were sold out. We had a steamer of buns with fried tofu soup, and Suleiman really enjoyed the purple rice porridge.
Xinbao'an Town is a key town on the ancient Beijing-Zhangjiakou road, with a post station built as early as the Yuan Dynasty. After the Tumu Crisis in the Ming Dynasty, a city was built here in 1451 (the second year of the Jingtai reign) to strengthen the northern defense line of Beijing. The Bao'an Garrison, originally located in Zhuolu, was moved here, and it has been called Bao'an New City ever since. After the Qing Dynasty, Xinbao'an gradually changed from a military town to a commercial hub, connecting Beijing and Zhangjiakou.
At the Xinbao'an town market, we bought old-fashioned five-nut mooncakes (wuren yuebing) and honey cakes at a roadside bakery. They were made that day and were perfect as tea snacks.
After breakfast, we went to the Hui Muslim residential area in the northwest of the old town to visit the famous 'Nine-Link Courtyard' (Jiulianhuan Dayuan). This was originally a wealthy merchant's residence in the Qing Dynasty. Later, the merchant declined and Hui Muslims moved in, so it is also called the 'Hui Muslim Courtyard'. The gate of the courtyard is very beautiful and is a classic example of Qing Dynasty residential style in Zhangjiakou, featuring complex brick, wood, and stone carvings. The courtyard was caught in the fighting during the 1948 Battle of Xinbao'an, and you can still see clear bullet marks today.
The Hui Muslims in Xinbao'an mainly have the surnames Liang and Zheng. The Liang family's ancestors moved from Nanjing to Liangjiapo, Weinan, Shaanxi, in the late Ming Dynasty during the Chongzhen reign. In 1677 (the 16th year of the Kangxi reign), they moved to Xinbao'an Town to farm and guard the capital. During the Qianlong reign, the Liang family began doing business in Zhangjiakou. By the Tongzhi reign, their camel caravans reached as far as Kulun in Outer Mongolia and Lanzhou. They later opened five shops known as the 'Five Great Guangs'.
The Zheng family shares the same origin as those in nearby Huailai and Zhuolu counties. Their ancestors moved from Shaanxi in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, first to Shacheng Town in Huailai, then spreading to Wangjialou, Yanzhuang, Xinbao'an, Xuanhua, and Zhangjiakou. Zheng Kuishi was a famous Hui Muslim general in the late Qing Dynasty. He fought against the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom during the Xianfeng reign, won many battles, was given the title 'Shalama Baturu', and was awarded a yellow riding jacket. During the Tongzhi reign, he served as the acting Zhili provincial commander, guarding the capital region and suppressing the Nian Rebellion in Zhili to keep the capital safe. In his later years, he returned home to work on water conservancy, building the Yonggu Dam to manage the Liu River. He also repaired the Zhenshuo Tower and Four Archways in Xuanhua and opened the Huoshi Slope road to improve transportation. He was highly respected locally.
Xinbao'an Mosque is right next to the Nine-Link Hui Muslim Courtyard. Some say it was built in 1621 (the first year of the Tianqi reign), while others say it was built in 1677 (the 16th year of the Kangxi reign). The main hall consists of a front hall, a middle hall, and a rear kiln hall. It is larger than other old mosques in Huailai and still has beautiful brick carvings, though the moon-watching tower on the kiln hall roof is gone.
During the 1948 Pingjin Campaign, Xinbao'an was a key battlefield. The Xinbao'an Mosque became the command post for the Nationalist 35th Army, and the walls of the main hall are still covered in bullet marks. In 2008, the mosque was listed as a Hebei Provincial Cultural Relic Protection Unit under the name 'Site of the Battle of Xinbao'an—Command Post of the Nationalist 35th Army'.
The only remaining stone tablet at Xinbao'an Mosque is likely a donation tablet, which lists many business names.
We drove from Xinbao'an Town to Zhuolu County to visit another old mosque in Zhangjiakou—Zhuolu Mosque.
Zhuolu Mosque is located in the east gate area of the county. It was first built during the Chenghua period of the Ming Dynasty. It is a famous historic mosque north of Beijing and was listed as a key cultural relic protection site in Hebei Province in 2008. The main hall of Zhuolu Mosque is made of three connected hard-mountain roofs with a front porch. Behind the kiln hall stands an 11-meter-high octagonal spire-roofed Moon-Watching Tower (wangyuelou), which is more spectacular than the common hexagonal spire roofs found in North China. Wind bells hang on the Moon-Watching Tower. When the wind blows, the bells ring, creating a refreshing and soothing sound. A wooden partition screen is built between the main hall and the kiln hall, featuring a unique design of the Basmala (tasimi) written in hard-pen calligraphy.
The Hui Muslims in Zhuolu are mainly of the Shan surname. The Shan family are descendants of Sayyid Ajjal Shams al-Din. One branch originally came from Shanjia Gou in Xi'an Prefecture, Shaanxi. They moved to Zhuolu during the Kangxi period of the Qing Dynasty, and during the Qianlong period, they built the Shan Family Nine-Linked Ring Courtyard in the west gate area. The Shan family is known for their military service. Five members once passed the military imperial examinations, and they were known as the 'Five Dragons of the Shan Family'. The east gate area where Zhuolu Mosque is located was also a residential area for Hui Muslims. It once had alleys named after local Hui Muslim families: Ma Family Alley (Majia Xiang), Fei Family Alley (Feijia Xiang), and Shan Family Alley (Shanjia Xiang). Unfortunately, the east gate area was demolished in 2018, and only the mosque was preserved.
Zhuolu Mosque is famous for its exquisite brick carvings. The brick carvings on the sides of the three-room hard-mountain main hall are all different. Inside the main hall, there are eighteen precious murals featuring themes of plum blossoms, orchids, bamboo, chrysanthemums, landscapes, and utensils, which are very rare in the main halls of mosques.
Plaques inside Zhuolu Mosque:
The 'Wanxiang Zhenzong' plaque from 1809 (the 14th year of the Jiaqing reign).
The 'Daotong Tianren' plaque from 1859 (the 9th year of the Xianfeng reign).
The 'Zhenshi Wuwang' plaque from 1870 (the 9th year of the Tongzhi reign).
The 'Tianxiu Wohe' plaque from 1919, which is the only one with an inscription, signed by 'Shan Xiangchen'.
At noon, I returned to Shacheng Town in Huailai for lunch. At Qingyizhai, I had lamb and mushroom with oat noodles (youmian wowo), stir-fried millet with chive flowers, and a clay pot of winter melon and meatballs. The prices at restaurants here are cheaper than in Beijing, and the food is delicious.
The lamb and mushroom dish had quite a few potatoes, but it was stir-fried well. There were several types of mushrooms, making it fresh, fragrant, and rich. The oat noodles were firm and chewy, carrying the unique, natural wheat aroma of whole grains. It was my first time eating stir-fried millet with chive flowers. The taste was slightly salty. The golden millet grains were dry and distinct, mixed with the unique spicy fragrance of chive flowers, giving it a coarse yet refreshing texture. The winter melon and meatball soup was the most amazing. The clear soup with meatballs was especially good—firm and bouncy. It tasted better than what I make myself, and one bite told me there wasn't much starch, as it was mostly meat.
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Summary: This second Huailai and Zhuolu road trip entry continues through Hebei mosque sites, local Hui Muslim stories, village routes, and Qingming travel notes from the original Chinese article.
In the last post, we had lunch in Shacheng Town, Huailai, Hebei, and visited two old mosques in Ganji Liang and Mayukou. See 'Visiting Old Mosques in Huailai and Zhuolu, Hebei during the Qingming Holiday (Part 1)'. In this part, we head to Xinbao'an Town and Zhuolu County to experience the local Islamic culture.
On April 5, we had breakfast in Xinbao'an Town, Huailai, Hebei. We arrived a bit late, so the soft tofu (laodoufu) and brown sugar flatbread (shaobing) were sold out. We had a steamer of buns with fried tofu soup, and Suleiman really enjoyed the purple rice porridge.
Xinbao'an Town is a key town on the ancient Beijing-Zhangjiakou road, with a post station built as early as the Yuan Dynasty. After the Tumu Crisis in the Ming Dynasty, a city was built here in 1451 (the second year of the Jingtai reign) to strengthen the northern defense line of Beijing. The Bao'an Garrison, originally located in Zhuolu, was moved here, and it has been called Bao'an New City ever since. After the Qing Dynasty, Xinbao'an gradually changed from a military town to a commercial hub, connecting Beijing and Zhangjiakou.
At the Xinbao'an town market, we bought old-fashioned five-nut mooncakes (wuren yuebing) and honey cakes at a roadside bakery. They were made that day and were perfect as tea snacks.
After breakfast, we went to the Hui Muslim residential area in the northwest of the old town to visit the famous 'Nine-Link Courtyard' (Jiulianhuan Dayuan). This was originally a wealthy merchant's residence in the Qing Dynasty. Later, the merchant declined and Hui Muslims moved in, so it is also called the 'Hui Muslim Courtyard'. The gate of the courtyard is very beautiful and is a classic example of Qing Dynasty residential style in Zhangjiakou, featuring complex brick, wood, and stone carvings. The courtyard was caught in the fighting during the 1948 Battle of Xinbao'an, and you can still see clear bullet marks today.
The Hui Muslims in Xinbao'an mainly have the surnames Liang and Zheng. The Liang family's ancestors moved from Nanjing to Liangjiapo, Weinan, Shaanxi, in the late Ming Dynasty during the Chongzhen reign. In 1677 (the 16th year of the Kangxi reign), they moved to Xinbao'an Town to farm and guard the capital. During the Qianlong reign, the Liang family began doing business in Zhangjiakou. By the Tongzhi reign, their camel caravans reached as far as Kulun in Outer Mongolia and Lanzhou. They later opened five shops known as the 'Five Great Guangs'.
The Zheng family shares the same origin as those in nearby Huailai and Zhuolu counties. Their ancestors moved from Shaanxi in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, first to Shacheng Town in Huailai, then spreading to Wangjialou, Yanzhuang, Xinbao'an, Xuanhua, and Zhangjiakou. Zheng Kuishi was a famous Hui Muslim general in the late Qing Dynasty. He fought against the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom during the Xianfeng reign, won many battles, was given the title 'Shalama Baturu', and was awarded a yellow riding jacket. During the Tongzhi reign, he served as the acting Zhili provincial commander, guarding the capital region and suppressing the Nian Rebellion in Zhili to keep the capital safe. In his later years, he returned home to work on water conservancy, building the Yonggu Dam to manage the Liu River. He also repaired the Zhenshuo Tower and Four Archways in Xuanhua and opened the Huoshi Slope road to improve transportation. He was highly respected locally.
Xinbao'an Mosque is right next to the Nine-Link Hui Muslim Courtyard. Some say it was built in 1621 (the first year of the Tianqi reign), while others say it was built in 1677 (the 16th year of the Kangxi reign). The main hall consists of a front hall, a middle hall, and a rear kiln hall. It is larger than other old mosques in Huailai and still has beautiful brick carvings, though the moon-watching tower on the kiln hall roof is gone.
During the 1948 Pingjin Campaign, Xinbao'an was a key battlefield. The Xinbao'an Mosque became the command post for the Nationalist 35th Army, and the walls of the main hall are still covered in bullet marks. In 2008, the mosque was listed as a Hebei Provincial Cultural Relic Protection Unit under the name 'Site of the Battle of Xinbao'an—Command Post of the Nationalist 35th Army'.
The only remaining stone tablet at Xinbao'an Mosque is likely a donation tablet, which lists many business names.
We drove from Xinbao'an Town to Zhuolu County to visit another old mosque in Zhangjiakou—Zhuolu Mosque.
Zhuolu Mosque is located in the east gate area of the county. It was first built during the Chenghua period of the Ming Dynasty. It is a famous historic mosque north of Beijing and was listed as a key cultural relic protection site in Hebei Province in 2008. The main hall of Zhuolu Mosque is made of three connected hard-mountain roofs with a front porch. Behind the kiln hall stands an 11-meter-high octagonal spire-roofed Moon-Watching Tower (wangyuelou), which is more spectacular than the common hexagonal spire roofs found in North China. Wind bells hang on the Moon-Watching Tower. When the wind blows, the bells ring, creating a refreshing and soothing sound. A wooden partition screen is built between the main hall and the kiln hall, featuring a unique design of the Basmala (tasimi) written in hard-pen calligraphy.
The Hui Muslims in Zhuolu are mainly of the Shan surname. The Shan family are descendants of Sayyid Ajjal Shams al-Din. One branch originally came from Shanjia Gou in Xi'an Prefecture, Shaanxi. They moved to Zhuolu during the Kangxi period of the Qing Dynasty, and during the Qianlong period, they built the Shan Family Nine-Linked Ring Courtyard in the west gate area. The Shan family is known for their military service. Five members once passed the military imperial examinations, and they were known as the 'Five Dragons of the Shan Family'. The east gate area where Zhuolu Mosque is located was also a residential area for Hui Muslims. It once had alleys named after local Hui Muslim families: Ma Family Alley (Majia Xiang), Fei Family Alley (Feijia Xiang), and Shan Family Alley (Shanjia Xiang). Unfortunately, the east gate area was demolished in 2018, and only the mosque was preserved.
Zhuolu Mosque is famous for its exquisite brick carvings. The brick carvings on the sides of the three-room hard-mountain main hall are all different. Inside the main hall, there are eighteen precious murals featuring themes of plum blossoms, orchids, bamboo, chrysanthemums, landscapes, and utensils, which are very rare in the main halls of mosques.
Plaques inside Zhuolu Mosque:
The 'Wanxiang Zhenzong' plaque from 1809 (the 14th year of the Jiaqing reign).
The 'Daotong Tianren' plaque from 1859 (the 9th year of the Xianfeng reign).
The 'Zhenshi Wuwang' plaque from 1870 (the 9th year of the Tongzhi reign).
The 'Tianxiu Wohe' plaque from 1919, which is the only one with an inscription, signed by 'Shan Xiangchen'.
At noon, I returned to Shacheng Town in Huailai for lunch. At Qingyizhai, I had lamb and mushroom with oat noodles (youmian wowo), stir-fried millet with chive flowers, and a clay pot of winter melon and meatballs. The prices at restaurants here are cheaper than in Beijing, and the food is delicious.
The lamb and mushroom dish had quite a few potatoes, but it was stir-fried well. There were several types of mushrooms, making it fresh, fragrant, and rich. The oat noodles were firm and chewy, carrying the unique, natural wheat aroma of whole grains. It was my first time eating stir-fried millet with chive flowers. The taste was slightly salty. The golden millet grains were dry and distinct, mixed with the unique spicy fragrance of chive flowers, giving it a coarse yet refreshing texture. The winter melon and meatball soup was the most amazing. The clear soup with meatballs was especially good—firm and bouncy. It tasted better than what I make myself, and one bite told me there wasn't much starch, as it was mostly meat.
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Beijing Halal Food Map: 65 International Muslim-Friendly Restaurants by Cuisine
Reposted from the web
Summary: This Beijing halal food map lists 65 international Muslim-friendly restaurants by cuisine, from Arab and Turkish spots to Pakistani, Central Asian, African, and Southeast Asian restaurants.
In July 2025, I shared a list of 52 international halal restaurants in Beijing. I checked again today and found that in less than a year, the number has grown to 65, offering more variety than ever. Please leave a comment if you know of other restaurants.
17 Arab restaurants
Palestinian AL Safir Arab Restaurant (Xiaguangli branch). Location: No. 35 Xiaoyun Road, Chaoyang District.
Palestinian ROSE CITY (Middle Eastern Levantine cuisine). Location: 2nd Floor, Shop 6202, Building 6, Sanlitun SOHO, No. 8 Workers' Stadium North Road, Sanlitun Subdistrict, Chaoyang District, Beijing.
Lebanese ALAMEEN Arab Restaurant (Sanlitun branch). Location: No. 2 West 5th Street, Sanlitun, Chaoyang District.
Lebanese SUMAC Lebanese Restaurant. Location: Shop 8, 1st Floor, South Building, Liangma Harbor Building, Chaoyang District.
Lebanese ELI FALAFEL Lebanese & Mediterranean (Guan She branch). Location: F108A, 1st Floor, South Area, Guan She, Building 5, No. 19 Dongfang East Road, Maizidian Subdistrict, Chaoyang District, Beijing.
Lebanese Mac Mac Lebanese Restaurant (Zhengda Center branch). Location: 1st Floor, North Tower, Zhengda Center, Zhenzhi Road, Chaoyang District, Beijing.
Lebanese #024 SEA STRINGS immersive sound Western restaurant. Location: 2nd Floor, Building 24, North Sanlitun, Chaoyang District, Beijing.
Syrian BRBR Syrian Restaurant (SOLANA branch). Location: Shop SM2-22, 2nd Floor, SOLANA (Blue Harbor), Chaoyang District.
Syrian BRBR Syrian Restaurant (Main branch). Location: Ground floor commercial space, Building 12, Dongshengyuan, Dongsheng South Road, Zhongguancun Subdistrict, Haidian District, Beijing.
Syrian One Thousand and One Nights Arab Restaurant. Location: 4th Floor, T+MALL, No. 1 Sanlitun, Chaoyang District.
Syrian Habibi Shawarma Arab food. Location: About 101 meters southeast of the intersection of Jiugong East-West Street and Jiuzhong East Street, Daxing District.
Iraqi Taiba Shawarma Turkish BBQ (Sanlitun branch). Location: Ground floor, Block C, Sanlitun SOHO, Chaoyang District.
Iraqi Taiba Shawarma Burger shop. Location: About 89 meters due north of the intersection of South Sanlitun Middle Street and South Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang District, Beijing.
Iraqi Taiba Shawarma Middle Eastern restaurant (Wudaokou branch). Location: Ground floor, Building 1, Dongshengyuan Apartment, Wudaokou, Haidian District, Beijing.
Emirati Alkhaleej Mandi Restaurant. Location: Sanlitun SOHO 1121-1-2, Chaoyang District.
Egyptian Cleopatra lounge & restaurant (Sanlitun SOHO branch). Location: Shop 210, 2nd Floor, Mall 3, Sanlitun SOHO, Chaoyang District.
Tunisian Lamedina Mediterranean Restaurant. Location: RS-09 on 1st floor and RS-10 on 2nd floor, Building 8, No. 6 Chaoyang Park Road, Chaoyang District, Beijing.
9 Turkish restaurants
SULTAN Turkish BBQ. Location: Shop 109, 1st Floor, Jinshang, Building 20, Xinyuanli West, Xindong Road, Chaoyang District.
Turkish Feast (WF Central branch). Location: East Building, WF Central, Dongcheng District (owned by an Azerbaijani).
Turkish Feast (Xinyuanli branch). Location: Shop 115, 1st Floor, Jinshang SHANG Building, Xindong Road, Chaoyang District (owned by an Azerbaijani).
Xiting Xiuse Turkish Feast (China Central Place branch) is located at 101, 1st Floor, Building 15, 89 Jianguo Road, Chaoyang District. The owner is from Azerbaijan.
Dardanelles Turkish Restaurant (Shenlu Street branch) is located at 39 Shenlu Street, Chaoyang District. The owner is from Azerbaijan.
Dardanelles (Ritan International Trade Center branch) is located 136 meters northeast of the intersection of Chaowai Second Alley and Chaowai Market Street. The owner is from Azerbaijan.
CANAKKALE Express Dardanelles Turkish Restaurant (Guomao branch) is located at 8 Xiushui Street Building, Jianwai Subdistrict, Chaoyang District, Beijing. The owner is from Azerbaijan.
Desert Rose Turkish Restaurant (Shenlu Street branch) is located at Building 1, 39 Shenlu Street, Chaoyang District. The owner is from Azerbaijan.
LIQA is located on the 1st floor of the Rosewood Beijing Hotel, Jingguang Center, Hujialou, East Third Ring North Road, Chaoyang District.
Two Azerbaijani restaurants.
Ritan Ruilin Restaurant KAVKAZ (Ritan Shangjie branch) is located at 1-51-52 Ritan Shangjie, 39 Shenlu Street, Chaoyang District.
Azerbaijan National Brand Pavilion - Maiden Tower Restaurant (halal) is located on the 3rd basement level of Dongxin Commercial Plaza, 35 Xiaoyun Road, Chaoyang District.
Three Turkmenistan restaurants.
Merv (Ritan International Trade Center branch) is located at B023, Basement Level 1, Block B, Ritan International Apartment, 17 Ritan North Road, Chaoyang District.
Asian Food is located three meters next to the Hangzhou steamed dumplings (xiaolongbao) shop in the East District of Dongguan Second Alley residential area, Chengbei Subdistrict, Changping District, Beijing.
An-Nur is located at shop 3 on the right-hand side inside the north gate of Ningxinyuan residential area, Fuxue Road, Changping District.
One Kazakhstan restaurant.
SANDYQ Kazakh Ethnic Restaurant is located in the north section of the 1st floor, Building 1, 40 Liangmaqiao Road, Chaoyang District, Beijing.
Twenty Pakistani restaurants.
SAMOSA China-Pakistan Friendship Restaurant is located at shop 6, Building 6, Xibahe Zhongli community.
SAMOSA China-Pakistan Friendship Restaurant (Sanlitun branch) is located inside the Atour X Hotel, 12 Dongzhimen Outer Street, Dongcheng District.
MONAL Emerald China-Pakistan Friendship Restaurant is located on 798 Ceramics Second Street, Chaoyang District.
Little Lahore Restaurant (Niujie Lanman Hutong branch) is located at 64 Lanman Hutong, Xicheng District.
Little Lahore Restaurant (Qingnian Road branch) is located at commercial unit B202, 2nd floor, Building 6, 2 Qingnian Road West, Chaoyang District.
Little Lahore Courtyard Restaurant (Dongzhimen branch) is located at 47 Dongzhimen Outer Small Street, Dongcheng District.
KHANBABA Restaurant (Sanlitun branch) is located at room 2511, 5th floor, Building 2, Sanlitun SOHO, Chaoyang District.
Khan Baba Restaurant (Wudaokou branch) is located at A1-03, 1st floor, Area A, Jixin Building, Zhanchunyuan West Road, Haidian District.
Habibi Restaurant (Habibi Bajisitan Can) is located at Room 301, 3rd Floor, Building 1, Courtyard 8, Minzu University West Road, Haidian District.
Habibi Restaurant (Habibi Bajisitan Can) Liudaokou branch is located at 32 Qinghua East Road, Haidian District, Beijing, in the bungalow area.
Masala Pakistan restaurant (Yingbin Road branch) is located at Building 3, 27 Yingbin Middle Road, Longshan Subdistrict, Huairou District.
Huanxi Curry restaurant (Lin'ao branch) is located at Shop 023C, B1 Floor, Lin'ao CITYPARK Shopping Center, 4 Qinglin East Road, Chaoyang District.
Sultan Pakistan (Sudan Bajisitan) is located at 88 Huataizi, Sanduhe Village, Bohai Town, Huairou District.
ZAM ZAM Traditional Pakistani and Indian Cuisine is located at 41 Xueqing Road, Yujing Building 6, Haidian District.
AL RAYYAN Pakistani halal restaurant (Changyang branch) is located at Shop 108, Building 4, Courtyard 8, Fuze Road, Fangshan District.
AL RAYYAN Pakistani restaurant (Wangfujing branch) is located at Shop P004, 6th Floor, Joy City Shopping Center, Wangfujing, Dongcheng District, Beijing.
ROMA Restaurant is located about 70 meters due north of the intersection of Nanshuiguan Hutong and Nanzhuguan Hutong, Dongcheng District.
Italian Firenze restaurant (Feilengcui Tasikafei) is located at 1-1, Building 1, Courtyard 2, Guanyinan South Street, Xinhua Subdistrict, Tongzhou District. The kitchen staff are Pakistani, and they can prepare both Italian and Pakistani dishes.
Culture Pakistani and Indian restaurant is located at Shop 2219, 2nd Floor, Sanlitun SOHO Building 2, Chaoyang District, Beijing.
AHMED'S KITCHEN is located at Office Building E, Sanlitun SOHO, Sanlitun Subdistrict, Chaoyang District, Beijing.
4 Bangladeshi restaurants.
Santoor Indian restaurant (Beiluoguxiang branch) is located on the 2nd floor, 70 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng District.
Santoor Indian restaurant (Yizhuang branch) is located at Room 105, 1st Floor, Building 30, Courtyard 6, Wenhua Yuan West Road, Economic and Technological Development Zone, Daxing District, Beijing.
Punjabi Indian restaurant (Haoyunjie branch) is located on the 2nd floor, 3 Chaoyang Park Road, Chaoyang District.
Halal Shalimar Indian, Bangladeshi, and Brazilian restaurant (Yufeng Road branch) is located at Room 104, 1st Floor, Building 8, Courtyard 16, Yufeng Road, Shunyi District.
7 Indian restaurants.
Some Indian restaurants are owned by Hindus who use halal ingredients, so please use your own judgment.
Indian Kitchen (Yindu Xiaochu) is located at Building 10, 39 Shenlu Street, Chaoyang District.
DASTAAN Indian restaurant (Sanlitun SOHO branch) is located at F3-5-326, Sanlitun SOHO Mall, Chaoyang District.
YUMMY INDIAN RESTAURANT (Xingfu Shangsha branch) is located on the 2nd floor of Xingfu Commercial Building, 1 Dingfuzhuang West Street, Chaoyang District.
Mirch Masala Indian Restaurant is located at Shop 113, 1st Floor, Building 1, Zone A, Jinjie, West Gate of Wanda Plaza, Xinhua West Street, Tongzhou District.
Rabiul's Kitchen Indian restaurant (798 branch) is located at Building 31, Dashanzi Beili, Chaoyang District.
India Restaurant Love at Curry Indian Restaurant is located at B1, Hongqiao Market, Dongcheng District.
RAJ Indian Music Restaurant (Houhai Gulou Branch) is located at No. 31 Gulou West Street, Xicheng District, Beijing (a 440-meter walk from Exit A2, Northwest, of Shichahai Subway Station).
One Sri Lankan restaurant.
They use halal ingredients, but please use your own judgment.
Cinnara Sri Lankan Restaurant is located at Room 3015, 3rd Floor, Building A, Chaowai SOHO, Chaoyang District, Beijing.
One Ghanaian restaurant.
They use halal ingredients, but please use your own judgment.
TRIBE GARDEN African Restaurant and Bar is located at B1, Sanlitun SOHO Mall, Chaoyang District.
Everyone is welcome to try the foreign halal restaurants in Beijing.
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Summary: This Beijing halal food map lists 65 international Muslim-friendly restaurants by cuisine, from Arab and Turkish spots to Pakistani, Central Asian, African, and Southeast Asian restaurants.
In July 2025, I shared a list of 52 international halal restaurants in Beijing. I checked again today and found that in less than a year, the number has grown to 65, offering more variety than ever. Please leave a comment if you know of other restaurants.
17 Arab restaurants
Palestinian AL Safir Arab Restaurant (Xiaguangli branch). Location: No. 35 Xiaoyun Road, Chaoyang District.
Palestinian ROSE CITY (Middle Eastern Levantine cuisine). Location: 2nd Floor, Shop 6202, Building 6, Sanlitun SOHO, No. 8 Workers' Stadium North Road, Sanlitun Subdistrict, Chaoyang District, Beijing.
Lebanese ALAMEEN Arab Restaurant (Sanlitun branch). Location: No. 2 West 5th Street, Sanlitun, Chaoyang District.
Lebanese SUMAC Lebanese Restaurant. Location: Shop 8, 1st Floor, South Building, Liangma Harbor Building, Chaoyang District.
Lebanese ELI FALAFEL Lebanese & Mediterranean (Guan She branch). Location: F108A, 1st Floor, South Area, Guan She, Building 5, No. 19 Dongfang East Road, Maizidian Subdistrict, Chaoyang District, Beijing.
Lebanese Mac Mac Lebanese Restaurant (Zhengda Center branch). Location: 1st Floor, North Tower, Zhengda Center, Zhenzhi Road, Chaoyang District, Beijing.
Lebanese #024 SEA STRINGS immersive sound Western restaurant. Location: 2nd Floor, Building 24, North Sanlitun, Chaoyang District, Beijing.
Syrian BRBR Syrian Restaurant (SOLANA branch). Location: Shop SM2-22, 2nd Floor, SOLANA (Blue Harbor), Chaoyang District.
Syrian BRBR Syrian Restaurant (Main branch). Location: Ground floor commercial space, Building 12, Dongshengyuan, Dongsheng South Road, Zhongguancun Subdistrict, Haidian District, Beijing.
Syrian One Thousand and One Nights Arab Restaurant. Location: 4th Floor, T+MALL, No. 1 Sanlitun, Chaoyang District.
Syrian Habibi Shawarma Arab food. Location: About 101 meters southeast of the intersection of Jiugong East-West Street and Jiuzhong East Street, Daxing District.
Iraqi Taiba Shawarma Turkish BBQ (Sanlitun branch). Location: Ground floor, Block C, Sanlitun SOHO, Chaoyang District.
Iraqi Taiba Shawarma Burger shop. Location: About 89 meters due north of the intersection of South Sanlitun Middle Street and South Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang District, Beijing.
Iraqi Taiba Shawarma Middle Eastern restaurant (Wudaokou branch). Location: Ground floor, Building 1, Dongshengyuan Apartment, Wudaokou, Haidian District, Beijing.
Emirati Alkhaleej Mandi Restaurant. Location: Sanlitun SOHO 1121-1-2, Chaoyang District.
Egyptian Cleopatra lounge & restaurant (Sanlitun SOHO branch). Location: Shop 210, 2nd Floor, Mall 3, Sanlitun SOHO, Chaoyang District.
Tunisian Lamedina Mediterranean Restaurant. Location: RS-09 on 1st floor and RS-10 on 2nd floor, Building 8, No. 6 Chaoyang Park Road, Chaoyang District, Beijing.
9 Turkish restaurants
SULTAN Turkish BBQ. Location: Shop 109, 1st Floor, Jinshang, Building 20, Xinyuanli West, Xindong Road, Chaoyang District.
Turkish Feast (WF Central branch). Location: East Building, WF Central, Dongcheng District (owned by an Azerbaijani).
Turkish Feast (Xinyuanli branch). Location: Shop 115, 1st Floor, Jinshang SHANG Building, Xindong Road, Chaoyang District (owned by an Azerbaijani).
Xiting Xiuse Turkish Feast (China Central Place branch) is located at 101, 1st Floor, Building 15, 89 Jianguo Road, Chaoyang District. The owner is from Azerbaijan.
Dardanelles Turkish Restaurant (Shenlu Street branch) is located at 39 Shenlu Street, Chaoyang District. The owner is from Azerbaijan.
Dardanelles (Ritan International Trade Center branch) is located 136 meters northeast of the intersection of Chaowai Second Alley and Chaowai Market Street. The owner is from Azerbaijan.
CANAKKALE Express Dardanelles Turkish Restaurant (Guomao branch) is located at 8 Xiushui Street Building, Jianwai Subdistrict, Chaoyang District, Beijing. The owner is from Azerbaijan.
Desert Rose Turkish Restaurant (Shenlu Street branch) is located at Building 1, 39 Shenlu Street, Chaoyang District. The owner is from Azerbaijan.
LIQA is located on the 1st floor of the Rosewood Beijing Hotel, Jingguang Center, Hujialou, East Third Ring North Road, Chaoyang District.
Two Azerbaijani restaurants.
Ritan Ruilin Restaurant KAVKAZ (Ritan Shangjie branch) is located at 1-51-52 Ritan Shangjie, 39 Shenlu Street, Chaoyang District.
Azerbaijan National Brand Pavilion - Maiden Tower Restaurant (halal) is located on the 3rd basement level of Dongxin Commercial Plaza, 35 Xiaoyun Road, Chaoyang District.
Three Turkmenistan restaurants.
Merv (Ritan International Trade Center branch) is located at B023, Basement Level 1, Block B, Ritan International Apartment, 17 Ritan North Road, Chaoyang District.
Asian Food is located three meters next to the Hangzhou steamed dumplings (xiaolongbao) shop in the East District of Dongguan Second Alley residential area, Chengbei Subdistrict, Changping District, Beijing.
An-Nur is located at shop 3 on the right-hand side inside the north gate of Ningxinyuan residential area, Fuxue Road, Changping District.
One Kazakhstan restaurant.
SANDYQ Kazakh Ethnic Restaurant is located in the north section of the 1st floor, Building 1, 40 Liangmaqiao Road, Chaoyang District, Beijing.
Twenty Pakistani restaurants.
SAMOSA China-Pakistan Friendship Restaurant is located at shop 6, Building 6, Xibahe Zhongli community.
SAMOSA China-Pakistan Friendship Restaurant (Sanlitun branch) is located inside the Atour X Hotel, 12 Dongzhimen Outer Street, Dongcheng District.
MONAL Emerald China-Pakistan Friendship Restaurant is located on 798 Ceramics Second Street, Chaoyang District.
Little Lahore Restaurant (Niujie Lanman Hutong branch) is located at 64 Lanman Hutong, Xicheng District.
Little Lahore Restaurant (Qingnian Road branch) is located at commercial unit B202, 2nd floor, Building 6, 2 Qingnian Road West, Chaoyang District.
Little Lahore Courtyard Restaurant (Dongzhimen branch) is located at 47 Dongzhimen Outer Small Street, Dongcheng District.
KHANBABA Restaurant (Sanlitun branch) is located at room 2511, 5th floor, Building 2, Sanlitun SOHO, Chaoyang District.
Khan Baba Restaurant (Wudaokou branch) is located at A1-03, 1st floor, Area A, Jixin Building, Zhanchunyuan West Road, Haidian District.
Habibi Restaurant (Habibi Bajisitan Can) is located at Room 301, 3rd Floor, Building 1, Courtyard 8, Minzu University West Road, Haidian District.
Habibi Restaurant (Habibi Bajisitan Can) Liudaokou branch is located at 32 Qinghua East Road, Haidian District, Beijing, in the bungalow area.
Masala Pakistan restaurant (Yingbin Road branch) is located at Building 3, 27 Yingbin Middle Road, Longshan Subdistrict, Huairou District.
Huanxi Curry restaurant (Lin'ao branch) is located at Shop 023C, B1 Floor, Lin'ao CITYPARK Shopping Center, 4 Qinglin East Road, Chaoyang District.
Sultan Pakistan (Sudan Bajisitan) is located at 88 Huataizi, Sanduhe Village, Bohai Town, Huairou District.
ZAM ZAM Traditional Pakistani and Indian Cuisine is located at 41 Xueqing Road, Yujing Building 6, Haidian District.
AL RAYYAN Pakistani halal restaurant (Changyang branch) is located at Shop 108, Building 4, Courtyard 8, Fuze Road, Fangshan District.
AL RAYYAN Pakistani restaurant (Wangfujing branch) is located at Shop P004, 6th Floor, Joy City Shopping Center, Wangfujing, Dongcheng District, Beijing.
ROMA Restaurant is located about 70 meters due north of the intersection of Nanshuiguan Hutong and Nanzhuguan Hutong, Dongcheng District.
Italian Firenze restaurant (Feilengcui Tasikafei) is located at 1-1, Building 1, Courtyard 2, Guanyinan South Street, Xinhua Subdistrict, Tongzhou District. The kitchen staff are Pakistani, and they can prepare both Italian and Pakistani dishes.
Culture Pakistani and Indian restaurant is located at Shop 2219, 2nd Floor, Sanlitun SOHO Building 2, Chaoyang District, Beijing.
AHMED'S KITCHEN is located at Office Building E, Sanlitun SOHO, Sanlitun Subdistrict, Chaoyang District, Beijing.
4 Bangladeshi restaurants.
Santoor Indian restaurant (Beiluoguxiang branch) is located on the 2nd floor, 70 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng District.
Santoor Indian restaurant (Yizhuang branch) is located at Room 105, 1st Floor, Building 30, Courtyard 6, Wenhua Yuan West Road, Economic and Technological Development Zone, Daxing District, Beijing.
Punjabi Indian restaurant (Haoyunjie branch) is located on the 2nd floor, 3 Chaoyang Park Road, Chaoyang District.
Halal Shalimar Indian, Bangladeshi, and Brazilian restaurant (Yufeng Road branch) is located at Room 104, 1st Floor, Building 8, Courtyard 16, Yufeng Road, Shunyi District.
7 Indian restaurants.
Some Indian restaurants are owned by Hindus who use halal ingredients, so please use your own judgment.
Indian Kitchen (Yindu Xiaochu) is located at Building 10, 39 Shenlu Street, Chaoyang District.
DASTAAN Indian restaurant (Sanlitun SOHO branch) is located at F3-5-326, Sanlitun SOHO Mall, Chaoyang District.
YUMMY INDIAN RESTAURANT (Xingfu Shangsha branch) is located on the 2nd floor of Xingfu Commercial Building, 1 Dingfuzhuang West Street, Chaoyang District.
Mirch Masala Indian Restaurant is located at Shop 113, 1st Floor, Building 1, Zone A, Jinjie, West Gate of Wanda Plaza, Xinhua West Street, Tongzhou District.
Rabiul's Kitchen Indian restaurant (798 branch) is located at Building 31, Dashanzi Beili, Chaoyang District.
India Restaurant Love at Curry Indian Restaurant is located at B1, Hongqiao Market, Dongcheng District.
RAJ Indian Music Restaurant (Houhai Gulou Branch) is located at No. 31 Gulou West Street, Xicheng District, Beijing (a 440-meter walk from Exit A2, Northwest, of Shichahai Subway Station).
One Sri Lankan restaurant.
They use halal ingredients, but please use your own judgment.
Cinnara Sri Lankan Restaurant is located at Room 3015, 3rd Floor, Building A, Chaowai SOHO, Chaoyang District, Beijing.
One Ghanaian restaurant.
They use halal ingredients, but please use your own judgment.
TRIBE GARDEN African Restaurant and Bar is located at B1, Sanlitun SOHO Mall, Chaoyang District.
Everyone is welcome to try the foreign halal restaurants in Beijing.
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Hidden Mosques Near Beijing: Huailai and Zhuolu Qingming Road Trip, Part One
Reposted from the web
Summary: This Qingming road trip leaves Beijing for Huailai and Zhuolu in Hebei, visiting old mosques, Hui Muslim communities, village streets, and local history in the first half of the route.
During the Qingming holiday, I took a two-day road trip to Huailai and Zhuolu counties in Zhangjiakou, Hebei. I visited four ancient mosques and tried the local food. I left home after breakfast on Saturday and didn't reach Shacheng until noon because of highway traffic. At Ma Laoda in the county seat, I ate cornmeal dumplings (nieba), yellow rice cake (huanggao), braised carp, stewed Chinese cabbage with yam, and beef stew. Prices here are much lower than in Beijing. A bowl of corn noodles costs 10 yuan, and a large carp is 28 yuan.
Cornmeal dumplings (nieba) and yellow rice cake (huanggao) are both rustic snacks from Zhangjiakou. Cornmeal dumplings (nieba) are made from a mix of cornmeal and wheat flour. The texture is just right, and the side of pickled mustard greens adds a great flavor.
Yellow rice cake (huanggao) is made from local broomcorn millet that is peeled and ground into flour. It is soft and chewy, much like African fufu. You pinch off a piece and dip it into the broth from the stewed Chinese cabbage and yam.
The large carp is a reservoir fish from Guanting Reservoir, braised to perfection. It tastes great, doesn't have many bones, and has no muddy aftertaste. I really enjoyed it.
The only issue was that their beef stew was spicy, so the kids couldn't eat it.
Shacheng Castle was built in 1451 (the second year of the Jingtai reign of the Ming Dynasty). It was constructed after the Tumu Crisis to defend the northwest of the capital. To boost the population and strengthen the capital's defenses, the Ming government repeatedly ordered people from Shaanxi and Shanxi to move to the area south of the Zhangjiakou dam to farm and settle. They farmed during peacetime and served as soldiers during wartime. This is how some Hui Muslims settled in Huailai. After the Beijing-Suiyuan Railway opened in 1909, a station was built in Shacheng. The town became a busy commercial hub, and the population grew quickly. In 1951, the old Huailai county seat was flooded to build the Guanting Reservoir, and Shacheng became the new seat of Huailai County.
After eating in Shacheng, I headed to the nearby Ganji Liang Village, the closest Hui Muslim village to the Huailai county seat.
Ganji Liang Village was originally called Gan Jilang. The main family there was the Han Chinese Gan family, but they later moved away, and the Zheng family, who are Hui Muslims, became the main residents. The Zheng family is a major Hui Muslim clan in Zhangjiakou. Their ancestors moved from Shaanxi in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, first to Huailai, and then spread throughout Zhangjiakou. The most famous member of the Zheng family in Zhangjiakou was Zheng Kuishi. He was a well-known late Qing Hui Muslim general. He joined the army in the early Daoguang years and fought against the Taiping Rebellion during the Xianfeng years. He served in Guangxi, Hunan, Hubei, and Anhui, earned many military honors, was given the title Shalama Batulu, and was awarded a yellow riding jacket. During the Tongzhi reign, he served as the acting Zhili provincial commander, guarding the capital region and suppressing the Nian Rebellion in Zhili to keep the capital safe. In his later years, he returned home to work on water conservancy, building the Yonggu Dam to manage the Liu River. He also repaired the Zhenshuo Tower and Four Archways in Xuanhua and opened the Huoshi Slope road to improve transportation. He was highly respected locally.
The Ganji Liang Mosque was built during the Qianlong reign and is a standard courtyard-style building. The main hall from the Qing Dynasty is still well-preserved and features beautiful brick carvings. Unfortunately, the religious life in Ganji Liang Village has declined, and imams come and go. There is currently no imam at the mosque, and it looks abandoned. The main hall is covered in dust and rubble, and the backyard is overgrown with weeds.
Inside the main hall, there is a wooden board with ink writing that records the history of the mosque: it was built by the community during the Qianlong reign, expanded in the sixth year of the Xianfeng reign, and land was purchased in the fourteenth year of the Daoguang reign. All the donors listed were from the local Zheng family. Unfortunately, it is hard to see the second half clearly because it was not well preserved.
Ganjiliang Village is built on a mountain ridge. Below the ridge are terraced fields, and on top are wind turbines. The wind here is much stronger than in Beijing.
Because of the terrain, Ganjiliang developed more slowly than the surrounding plains, which helped it keep more of its Qing Dynasty houses. Like many traditional villages, you rarely see young people here. Mostly, only the elderly remain.
After leaving Ganjiliang Village, we went to another old mosque, Mayukou Mosque. Mayukou is in Wangjialou Hui Muslim Township in Huailai, an area where many Hui Muslims live. We received a warm welcome from Imam Yang at the mosque. Imam Yang keeps the mosque in great order. Later, the assistant imam (hou ahong) invited us to eat dumplings made by the local women elders during Ramadan.
Xingwang Fortress was built in Mayukou during the Hongwu reign of the Ming Dynasty. It was one of the border forts built in the early Ming period to defend against the Northern Yuan. Hui Muslims settled in Mayukou in the mid-Qing Dynasty, and the Mayukou Mosque they built is now 200 years old. Mayukou Mosque and Ganjiliang Mosque have the same layout, consisting of a main prayer hall, north and south side rooms, and a front gate. The main prayer halls of Mayukou Mosque and Ganjiliang Mosque are also identical. They serve as typical examples of Qing Dynasty mosque halls in the border fort regions of Hebei. The difference is that the gate of Mayukou Mosque may have been rebuilt later. It is taller than the one at Ganjiliang Mosque and features beautiful brick carvings. It is a pity that the mosque renovated the side rooms and the interior of the main hall last year, so we could not see the traditional calligraphy preserved inside.
Scenery of Mayukou Village.
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Summary: This Qingming road trip leaves Beijing for Huailai and Zhuolu in Hebei, visiting old mosques, Hui Muslim communities, village streets, and local history in the first half of the route.
During the Qingming holiday, I took a two-day road trip to Huailai and Zhuolu counties in Zhangjiakou, Hebei. I visited four ancient mosques and tried the local food. I left home after breakfast on Saturday and didn't reach Shacheng until noon because of highway traffic. At Ma Laoda in the county seat, I ate cornmeal dumplings (nieba), yellow rice cake (huanggao), braised carp, stewed Chinese cabbage with yam, and beef stew. Prices here are much lower than in Beijing. A bowl of corn noodles costs 10 yuan, and a large carp is 28 yuan.
Cornmeal dumplings (nieba) and yellow rice cake (huanggao) are both rustic snacks from Zhangjiakou. Cornmeal dumplings (nieba) are made from a mix of cornmeal and wheat flour. The texture is just right, and the side of pickled mustard greens adds a great flavor.
Yellow rice cake (huanggao) is made from local broomcorn millet that is peeled and ground into flour. It is soft and chewy, much like African fufu. You pinch off a piece and dip it into the broth from the stewed Chinese cabbage and yam.
The large carp is a reservoir fish from Guanting Reservoir, braised to perfection. It tastes great, doesn't have many bones, and has no muddy aftertaste. I really enjoyed it.
The only issue was that their beef stew was spicy, so the kids couldn't eat it.
Shacheng Castle was built in 1451 (the second year of the Jingtai reign of the Ming Dynasty). It was constructed after the Tumu Crisis to defend the northwest of the capital. To boost the population and strengthen the capital's defenses, the Ming government repeatedly ordered people from Shaanxi and Shanxi to move to the area south of the Zhangjiakou dam to farm and settle. They farmed during peacetime and served as soldiers during wartime. This is how some Hui Muslims settled in Huailai. After the Beijing-Suiyuan Railway opened in 1909, a station was built in Shacheng. The town became a busy commercial hub, and the population grew quickly. In 1951, the old Huailai county seat was flooded to build the Guanting Reservoir, and Shacheng became the new seat of Huailai County.
After eating in Shacheng, I headed to the nearby Ganji Liang Village, the closest Hui Muslim village to the Huailai county seat.
Ganji Liang Village was originally called Gan Jilang. The main family there was the Han Chinese Gan family, but they later moved away, and the Zheng family, who are Hui Muslims, became the main residents. The Zheng family is a major Hui Muslim clan in Zhangjiakou. Their ancestors moved from Shaanxi in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, first to Huailai, and then spread throughout Zhangjiakou. The most famous member of the Zheng family in Zhangjiakou was Zheng Kuishi. He was a well-known late Qing Hui Muslim general. He joined the army in the early Daoguang years and fought against the Taiping Rebellion during the Xianfeng years. He served in Guangxi, Hunan, Hubei, and Anhui, earned many military honors, was given the title Shalama Batulu, and was awarded a yellow riding jacket. During the Tongzhi reign, he served as the acting Zhili provincial commander, guarding the capital region and suppressing the Nian Rebellion in Zhili to keep the capital safe. In his later years, he returned home to work on water conservancy, building the Yonggu Dam to manage the Liu River. He also repaired the Zhenshuo Tower and Four Archways in Xuanhua and opened the Huoshi Slope road to improve transportation. He was highly respected locally.
The Ganji Liang Mosque was built during the Qianlong reign and is a standard courtyard-style building. The main hall from the Qing Dynasty is still well-preserved and features beautiful brick carvings. Unfortunately, the religious life in Ganji Liang Village has declined, and imams come and go. There is currently no imam at the mosque, and it looks abandoned. The main hall is covered in dust and rubble, and the backyard is overgrown with weeds.
Inside the main hall, there is a wooden board with ink writing that records the history of the mosque: it was built by the community during the Qianlong reign, expanded in the sixth year of the Xianfeng reign, and land was purchased in the fourteenth year of the Daoguang reign. All the donors listed were from the local Zheng family. Unfortunately, it is hard to see the second half clearly because it was not well preserved.
Ganjiliang Village is built on a mountain ridge. Below the ridge are terraced fields, and on top are wind turbines. The wind here is much stronger than in Beijing.
Because of the terrain, Ganjiliang developed more slowly than the surrounding plains, which helped it keep more of its Qing Dynasty houses. Like many traditional villages, you rarely see young people here. Mostly, only the elderly remain.
After leaving Ganjiliang Village, we went to another old mosque, Mayukou Mosque. Mayukou is in Wangjialou Hui Muslim Township in Huailai, an area where many Hui Muslims live. We received a warm welcome from Imam Yang at the mosque. Imam Yang keeps the mosque in great order. Later, the assistant imam (hou ahong) invited us to eat dumplings made by the local women elders during Ramadan.
Xingwang Fortress was built in Mayukou during the Hongwu reign of the Ming Dynasty. It was one of the border forts built in the early Ming period to defend against the Northern Yuan. Hui Muslims settled in Mayukou in the mid-Qing Dynasty, and the Mayukou Mosque they built is now 200 years old. Mayukou Mosque and Ganjiliang Mosque have the same layout, consisting of a main prayer hall, north and south side rooms, and a front gate. The main prayer halls of Mayukou Mosque and Ganjiliang Mosque are also identical. They serve as typical examples of Qing Dynasty mosque halls in the border fort regions of Hebei. The difference is that the gate of Mayukou Mosque may have been rebuilt later. It is taller than the one at Ganjiliang Mosque and features beautiful brick carvings. It is a pity that the mosque renovated the side rooms and the interior of the main hall last year, so we could not see the traditional calligraphy preserved inside.
Scenery of Mayukou Village.
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Best Halal Food in Beijing: 10 Muslim-Friendly Restaurants Worth Trying (Part 7)
Reposted from the web
Summary: This seventh Beijing halal restaurant roundup covers JM Western Restaurant, Rose City Palestinian food, Baoding beef zhaobing, Pakistani food, Yunnan dishes, Turkish food, and more.
JM Western Restaurant Chaonei branch, Rose City Palestinian Restaurant, Baoding beef cover flatbread (niurou zhaobing), Al Rayyan Pakistani Restaurant, Yili Loulan Restaurant Guijie branch, Dianxinyuan Yunnan Cuisine, Heilongjiang Suihua Muxiangyuan Restaurant, Sanlitun Turkish Restaurant, Chaoyangmen fast food stall, and Habibi Pakistani buffet.
JM Western Restaurant Chaonei branch.
Our friend (dosti) Boss Ma from Xinjiang started JM with coffee roasting, and now they are expanding into pizza and pasta with more and more locations. I recently visited the popular Daji Lane branch for pizza, and this time I went to the newly opened Chaonei No. 81 branch. This is the second JM store in Dongsi. The Dongsi North Street branch is great for coffee and chatting, but the Chaonei branch is better for a full meal.
The JM Chaonei branch is right across from the Dongcheng Hui Muslim Primary School. It is a quiet, alcohol-free place with reliable ingredients. The atmosphere is great, but the space is relatively small with only three large tables. Since it just opened, there was no wait when we went, but it might get crowded once it becomes more popular.
Like the Daji Lane branch, their signature dish is the big plate chicken pizza. We already had that last time, so we ordered the potato beef pizza, pumpkin cheese salad, shepherd's pie, potato wedges, and butter garlic vegetables. For drinks, we had guava juice and apple fizz.
Their potato beef pizza is very mild, perfect for kids, and the beef is easy for children to chew. If you cannot eat spicy food, my friend (dosti), I recommend this one. The salad and vegetables are very healthy, though the salad can be a bit cold in winter. It comes with two types of cheese, both of which are excellent.
Shepherd's pie is a British dish made by topping cooked minced meat with mashed potatoes and baking it. After potatoes became a staple in the UK in the 18th century, shepherds in the north used leftover roasted meat and mashed potatoes to make these pies. It was simple and affordable, and it quickly became popular among the British working class after the 19th century.
Rose City Palestinian Restaurant.
Shawarma City in Sanlitun SOHO has opened a large restaurant upstairs, right next to Haidilao. The owner is a Swedish-Palestinian. Although I have not been to Palestine yet, based on my experience eating Levantine food in Syria, Lebanon, and Jordan, their food is truly authentic. I cannot find a single fault!
We ordered chicken shawarma, a chicken and lamb kebab platter, hummus with kibbeh beef meatballs, lentil soup, broccoli soup, and salty yogurt drink (ayran). The restaurant even gave us complimentary milk pudding.
The chicken shawarma tasted exactly like what I ate every day in Damascus. Garlic sauce is the essential soul of the dish. On the streets of Damascus, they pour it directly on, but here they serve it on the side for dipping.
Their roasted lamb is very tender! The kids especially loved it.
The hummus with kibbeh is also very popular. Kibbeh is made from minced lean meat and bulgur wheat. Bulgur is wheat that has been parboiled, hulled, and dried. It has a mild flavor with a nutty aroma.
Lentil soup is a must-have for me when eating Levantine food, but their broccoli soup is also delicious. This is made by blending broccoli into a puree with cream, and it has a very rich aroma.
Their yogurt drink (ayran) is very sour, much more authentic than the ayran at many restaurants in Beijing.
Their milk pudding is not too sweet, making it perfect for children.
Baoding beef soup with flatbread (niurou zhaobing).
The Baoding beef soup with flatbread shop in Songjiazhuang has a nice environment, but the biggest problem is that too many people smoke inside. When we went, there were only a few tables, and two of them were smoking. If you are bothered by cigarette smoke, you should probably avoid this place.
We ordered the three-layer beef and bread (san zhao san), shredded pork with garlic sauce (yuxiang rousi), meatball clay pot (shaguo wanzi), and salt and pepper crab leg mushrooms (jiaoyan xietui gu). First of all, the shredded pork with garlic sauce is not authentic at all. It has way too many bean sprouts and is cloyingly sweet. The shredded pork with garlic sauce I had in Baoding was made entirely of thin strips of meat with a balanced sweet and sour flavor; this place is far behind that standard.
The other dishes tasted pretty good. The meat in the three-layer beef and bread is not too tough, so children can eat it too. The meatball clay pot is very comforting in winter, and they give you plenty of meatballs. The portion of crab leg mushrooms is also very large, but it gets a bit greasy once it cools down, so you must eat it while it is hot.
Pakistani restaurant Al Rayyan.
The newly opened Pakistani restaurant Al Rayyan is on the sixth floor of Joy City in Wangfujing. They used to have a shop in Changyang. The environment at the Wangfujing branch is excellent, and you can overlook Wangfujing Street.
We ordered the Afghan pilaf set meal, which has a good discount for the first order. The set meal is quite substantial. Besides the Afghan pilaf, it includes butter-aromatic lamb handi with rice, lamb kafta kebab, hummus with flatbread, chicken corn soup, and mango juice. Two people can barely finish it. We hardly touched the pilaf, so we packed it up to take home for dinner the next night.
Afghan pilaf originated in the border region between northern Afghanistan and Uzbekistan. It is called Qabili Palaw in Afghanistan and later spread from there to West Asia, Central Asia, and Pakistan. The difference between Afghan pilaf and Xinjiang pilaf is the use of Indian long-grain fragrant rice, a small amount of saffron for color, and the use of ghee and vegetable oil when cooking the meat. The carrots are sliced thinly, and they add cinnamon, cardamom, and cloves, so it has more of a spice flavor than Xinjiang pilaf. The clay pot curry is slow-cooked in a handi clay pot. Modern kitchens sometimes use pressure cookers, but the flavor is not as good.
Yili Loulan Restaurant Guijie branch.
The Yili Loulan Restaurant at the Xinqiao intersection didn't have a sign for a long time. I only noticed the sign recently, so I came to eat here after the Guijie festival.
Their shop is at the intersection of Guijie, and the prices are higher than the average Uyghur restaurant. I bought a set meal voucher for mixed noodles, which included a bowl of Yili signature minced meat mixed noodles (banmian), two lamb skewers, and a glass of kvass. The mixed noodles (banmian) come with extra noodles added directly, which is great. The noodles are quite authentic and have a firmer texture, which some people really enjoy. The minced meat is very flavorful and topped with a fried egg. However, the bowl they use makes it hard to scoop up the minced meat; it would be better if they served it on a plate. The grilled meat (kaorou) is very tender. I heard they ship their meat all the way from Yili, which is why the prices are higher than elsewhere.
If you want to satisfy a craving for Yili-style food (dost), this is a good place to come, though it is a bit pricey for a regular meal.
After work, I had lamb leg pilaf (zhuafan) at Yili Loulan Restaurant near the Beixinqiao intersection. It tasted excellent. You can tell the lamb is from Xinjiang; you cannot get this flavor from meat bought in Beijing. The restaurant gets quite busy on weekends. Last time I went at six, it was empty, but this time both the first and second floors were full. Maybe they were running out of pilaf, as the portion I got from the bottom of the pot had some dried-out carrots, but the overall taste was still very good. I have to complain about a restaurant run by people from Southern Xinjiang that I often visit; they have almost turned their pilaf into plain rice (ranfan).
Also, a heads-up: their wooden spoons have rough edges. I tried two and they both scratched my mouth, so please be careful.
Dianxinyuan Yunnan Cuisine
I went to Yizhuang for some errands on the weekend and stopped by Dianxinyuan for some Yunnan food. I ate at the original Dianxinyuan store many years ago and it left a deep impression on me. Because Yizhuang is so far away, it is not very convenient to visit, so it took many years before I ate there a second time. The new store has a very nice, clean, and bright interior.
The owner is a Hui Muslim named Lin from Shadian, Yunnan. The Lin family is a major clan in Shadian, with a saying that all members of the Lin family are elite. According to family records, the Shadian Lin family's ancestral home is in Putian, Fujian. They are descendants of Bigan from the Shang Dynasty and were given the surname Lin because their fief was at Changlin Mountain. In 1275 (the 11th year of the Zhiyuan era of the Yuan Dynasty), the ancestors of the Lin family entered Yunnan with the Xianyang King Sayyid Ajjal Shams al-Din, which led them to convert to Islam. Later, in the early years of the Chenghua era of the Ming Dynasty, the Lin family finally settled in Shadian.
We ordered their set meal for two, which included Gejiu tilapia, Shiping tofu, bridge-crossing rice noodles (guoqiao mixian), and assorted cold rice noodles. We also ordered crispy red beans and Yiliang roast duck, and drank Kunming mint water and Ruili mango juice. The skin of the Gejiu tilapia was grilled until slightly charred and wrinkled, and the meat was tender without falling apart. There were a few small bones, but not many overall. The Shiping tofu was soft and dense inside, but the skin was also soft, so it was not freshly pan-fried.
I highly recommend their rice noodles. If you are in Yizhuang on business by yourself, a bowl of rice noodles is a perfect meal. The broth for the bridge-crossing rice noodles is clear, fresh, and rich, and the ingredients are complete. After cooking, the rice noodles are smooth and refreshing. The assorted cold rice noodles have a very rich variety of side dishes, and the sweet and sour flavor is appetizing, while the cool texture is great for cutting through greasiness. The crispy red bean pastry (suhongdou) is crispy on the outside and powdery on the inside, but it is quite spicy, so Beijingers might find it too much. Yiliang roast duck (Yiliang kaoya) is the essence of Yunnan-style roast duck, with crispy skin and tender meat, lacking the heavy grease of Beijing-style roast duck, though the sauce here didn't taste as fragrant as what I had in Yunnan.
Muxiangyuan, a restaurant from Suihua, Heilongjiang.
On Saturday at noon, I went to Muxiangyuan, a restaurant from Suihua, Heilongjiang, that opened in Fangzhuang last year. I had previously eaten Heilongjiang Hui Muslim stir-fry in Harbin and thought it was excellent, so I was happy to have Heilongjiang food again in Beijing.
Their signature dishes are double-stir-fried meat (guobaorou) and braised meat strips (baroutiao). This time, I ordered stir-fried lamb liver (liuyanggan), stir-fried tofu skin with chili peppers (jianjiaogandoufu), and beef and pickled cabbage steamed dumplings (zhengjiao). The stir-fried lamb liver was very good. It wasn't too salty, the liver was very tender, and the kids loved it. The tofu skin is great with rice, but it's quite salty if you eat it alone. Northeastern food is naturally saltier than Beijing food, so friends (dost) who can't handle salt should mention it beforehand. The steamed dumplings were also delicious. The pickled cabbage added great flavor, and they were very juicy. You should bite into them and let them cool a bit before eating, or you might get burned.
Their prices are lower than many local Hui Muslim restaurants in Beijing. I ordered two dishes and a steamer of dumplings for only 90 yuan, which felt like a great deal.
Sanlitun Turkish Restaurant.
The Turkish cafe at the south entrance of Sanlitun SOHO used to be run by Dardanelles. I recently noticed the sign changed, and after asking, I found out it's now run by a couple from Urumqi. As a son-in-law from Urumqi, I consider them fellow hometown folks, haha. They still serve burgers, pizza, and Turkish fast food. We ordered a double beef burger, fries, cola, fried chicken nuggets, assorted pide, and also ordered falafel and rice pudding.
The taste is quite good, making it a great choice for friends (dost) who can't find Western-style fast food. The meat in the double beef burger was excellent and very satisfying to eat, though it would be even better if the bun was toasted a little. The pide was also very authentic, with a true Turkish flavor. The falafel was a bit hard, but the taste was fine, and the kids really liked the rice pudding.
Chaoyangmen Fast Food Stall.
Today I went to the halal fast food stall in the food court on the basement level of the Union Building outside Chaoyangmen. You can see the entrance to the food court after entering from the south gate of the Union Building, though it is a bit hidden.
There are 14 types of fast food, including chicken, duck, and fish. Two meat dishes and one vegetable dish cost 24 yuan, with free refills on rice and cornmeal porridge. The lady there is very enthusiastic toward everyone and calls everyone 'handsome'.
Chaoyangmen Fast Food Stall.
I went to the halal fast food stall in the food court on the basement level of the Union Building outside Chaoyangmen. You can see the entrance to the food court after entering from the south gate of the Union Building, though it is a bit hidden.
There are 14 types of fast food, including chicken, duck, and fish. Two meat dishes and one vegetable dish cost 24 yuan, with free refills on rice and cornmeal porridge. The lady there is very enthusiastic toward everyone and calls everyone 'handsome'.
Pakistani buffet at Habibi.
The Pakistani restaurant Habibi in Liudaokou specializes in buffets. It is really popular at lunch, and we had to wait a bit for a table, but we were seated quickly. The dishes are classic Pakistani food, mostly chicken, along with minced beef and lamb bones. They kept refilling the food while we were eating. The lamb bones were the most popular, and the freshly baked flatbread (naan) was very fragrant. Their curries are quite spicy, so there is not much for children to eat.
The lamb bones are prepared as korma, a type of curry stewed with coconut milk or yogurt. The word korma comes from the Turkic word qawirma, which originally meant fried, but it changed to mean stewed after entering the Urdu language. Korma is a typical Mughal court dish that originated in the 16th century. People say Shah Jahan ate korma with his guests at the banquet celebrating the completion of the Taj Mahal.
Another specialty of theirs is chicken porridge (haleem). Pakistani chicken porridge is similar to the meat porridge eaten by Hui Muslims, as both are often cooked for festivals and religious gatherings. The chicken is cooked for a long time until it completely breaks down. Once ready, it is topped with lemon, fried onions, and cilantro, and served with flatbread (naan) for a classic South Asian iftar meal.
A unique dessert is the syrup-soaked fried dough rings (jalebi). It originally came from West Asia and later spread to South Asia, becoming a classic dessert for Pakistani weddings and celebrations. In winter, it is often eaten with warm milk. Milk and flour balls (gulab jamun) are a classic dessert in South and Southeast Asia. They are fried balls made of cheese and flour, then soaked in rose water and saffron syrup. They can be served with ice cream and are a classic dessert for Pakistanis during Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha.
Their milk pudding is not too sweet, which is perfect for children. Suleiman also really likes their long-grain rice; he can eat a whole bowl plain.
They also have curry puffs (samosa), which are fried until very crispy.
Part 1: 10 halal restaurants in Beijing worth trying: Lahore Courtyard, Mai Mai Hong beef knife-cut noodles in Jiaozuo, Henan, Hulun Aile halal Mongolian food, West African Ghana Tribe Garden, Xing Lao Si meatball spicy soup in Xi'an, Jin Ying meatball soup in Changji, Xinjiang, Hotan Canteen in Xinjiang, BRBR Syrian restaurant, Gulou Eating Noodles fusion food in Beijing, and Xilaishun traditional Beijing food.
Part 2: 10 halal restaurants in Beijing worth trying (Part 2): Gulf Mandi Restaurant (UAE food), Xihan meatball soup at Xinjiang Mansion, Altai afternoon tea in the lobby of Xinjiang Mansion, Muhejia revolving hot pot, Nazilan in Urumqi, Xinjiang (closed), Baoyuanzhai pastries in Beijing (closed), China-Pakistan Friendship Restaurant (Pakistani samosas), Master Ma's roast duck (closed), Bengal Benjiebi Restaurant, and Shihu Cheng Resort in Huairou.
Part 3: 10 recently tried Beijing restaurant recommendations: JM Italian Coffee Dongsi branch, Huixiangyun halal Hunan stir-fry Wangjing branch (closed), Old Ma's lamb soup and steamed dumplings in Dezhou, Shandong, Philadelphia cheesesteak in Sanlitun, Pakistani Roma Restaurant, Muyuzhai garlic lamb intestines, Inner Mongolia Lianying shaomai (steamed dumplings) at Grassland Pomegranate Red, Gansu spicy hot pot in Wangfujing, and Yuezhen Yayuan halal courtyard restaurant.
Part 4: 10 halal restaurants in Beijing worth trying (Part 4): Hotan Rose Pilaf Yizhuang branch, Taiba Western-style bakery, Taiba South Sanlitun street shop, Zhaotong small meat skewers at Ganmaya BBQ on Guijie (closed), Bai Xiaobei Heilongjiang BBQ, Yunnan Muwenzhai dry-pot beef, Xinjiang restaurant Jiangjiang in Sanlitun, Huixiangyun halal Hunan restaurant Zuojiazhuang branch, Bazaar Sweetheart Yili ice cream shop, and Qianyuan Hotel in Dongzhimen.
Part 5: 10 halal restaurants in Beijing worth trying (Part 5): Sandyq Kazakhstan restaurant, Kashgar restaurant, Ahmed restaurant, Jingbalang Naan Bazaar, MacMac Lebanese restaurant, Humaer Xinjiang specialty food, Old Huihui dumpling restaurant Zoo branch, Fresh Milk Town Shuangjing branch (closed), Nawab restaurant, and Liu's Watch Repair and BBQ.
Part 6: 10 halal restaurants in Beijing worth trying (Part 6): Hongyunlou Huaiyang cuisine, Sanhe beef noodles (closed), JM Coffee and Bakery Daji Lane branch, Wanhe fatty beef, Xiangqing roast duck (closed), Culture Pakistani restaurant, Firenze Italian restaurant, Niujie Dashuntang, Zhenweizhai Tianjin cuisine, and Dardanelles children's meal. Collapse Read »
Summary: This seventh Beijing halal restaurant roundup covers JM Western Restaurant, Rose City Palestinian food, Baoding beef zhaobing, Pakistani food, Yunnan dishes, Turkish food, and more.
JM Western Restaurant Chaonei branch, Rose City Palestinian Restaurant, Baoding beef cover flatbread (niurou zhaobing), Al Rayyan Pakistani Restaurant, Yili Loulan Restaurant Guijie branch, Dianxinyuan Yunnan Cuisine, Heilongjiang Suihua Muxiangyuan Restaurant, Sanlitun Turkish Restaurant, Chaoyangmen fast food stall, and Habibi Pakistani buffet.
JM Western Restaurant Chaonei branch.
Our friend (dosti) Boss Ma from Xinjiang started JM with coffee roasting, and now they are expanding into pizza and pasta with more and more locations. I recently visited the popular Daji Lane branch for pizza, and this time I went to the newly opened Chaonei No. 81 branch. This is the second JM store in Dongsi. The Dongsi North Street branch is great for coffee and chatting, but the Chaonei branch is better for a full meal.
The JM Chaonei branch is right across from the Dongcheng Hui Muslim Primary School. It is a quiet, alcohol-free place with reliable ingredients. The atmosphere is great, but the space is relatively small with only three large tables. Since it just opened, there was no wait when we went, but it might get crowded once it becomes more popular.
Like the Daji Lane branch, their signature dish is the big plate chicken pizza. We already had that last time, so we ordered the potato beef pizza, pumpkin cheese salad, shepherd's pie, potato wedges, and butter garlic vegetables. For drinks, we had guava juice and apple fizz.
Their potato beef pizza is very mild, perfect for kids, and the beef is easy for children to chew. If you cannot eat spicy food, my friend (dosti), I recommend this one. The salad and vegetables are very healthy, though the salad can be a bit cold in winter. It comes with two types of cheese, both of which are excellent.
Shepherd's pie is a British dish made by topping cooked minced meat with mashed potatoes and baking it. After potatoes became a staple in the UK in the 18th century, shepherds in the north used leftover roasted meat and mashed potatoes to make these pies. It was simple and affordable, and it quickly became popular among the British working class after the 19th century.
Rose City Palestinian Restaurant.
Shawarma City in Sanlitun SOHO has opened a large restaurant upstairs, right next to Haidilao. The owner is a Swedish-Palestinian. Although I have not been to Palestine yet, based on my experience eating Levantine food in Syria, Lebanon, and Jordan, their food is truly authentic. I cannot find a single fault!
We ordered chicken shawarma, a chicken and lamb kebab platter, hummus with kibbeh beef meatballs, lentil soup, broccoli soup, and salty yogurt drink (ayran). The restaurant even gave us complimentary milk pudding.
The chicken shawarma tasted exactly like what I ate every day in Damascus. Garlic sauce is the essential soul of the dish. On the streets of Damascus, they pour it directly on, but here they serve it on the side for dipping.
Their roasted lamb is very tender! The kids especially loved it.
The hummus with kibbeh is also very popular. Kibbeh is made from minced lean meat and bulgur wheat. Bulgur is wheat that has been parboiled, hulled, and dried. It has a mild flavor with a nutty aroma.
Lentil soup is a must-have for me when eating Levantine food, but their broccoli soup is also delicious. This is made by blending broccoli into a puree with cream, and it has a very rich aroma.
Their yogurt drink (ayran) is very sour, much more authentic than the ayran at many restaurants in Beijing.
Their milk pudding is not too sweet, making it perfect for children.
Baoding beef soup with flatbread (niurou zhaobing).
The Baoding beef soup with flatbread shop in Songjiazhuang has a nice environment, but the biggest problem is that too many people smoke inside. When we went, there were only a few tables, and two of them were smoking. If you are bothered by cigarette smoke, you should probably avoid this place.
We ordered the three-layer beef and bread (san zhao san), shredded pork with garlic sauce (yuxiang rousi), meatball clay pot (shaguo wanzi), and salt and pepper crab leg mushrooms (jiaoyan xietui gu). First of all, the shredded pork with garlic sauce is not authentic at all. It has way too many bean sprouts and is cloyingly sweet. The shredded pork with garlic sauce I had in Baoding was made entirely of thin strips of meat with a balanced sweet and sour flavor; this place is far behind that standard.
The other dishes tasted pretty good. The meat in the three-layer beef and bread is not too tough, so children can eat it too. The meatball clay pot is very comforting in winter, and they give you plenty of meatballs. The portion of crab leg mushrooms is also very large, but it gets a bit greasy once it cools down, so you must eat it while it is hot.
Pakistani restaurant Al Rayyan.
The newly opened Pakistani restaurant Al Rayyan is on the sixth floor of Joy City in Wangfujing. They used to have a shop in Changyang. The environment at the Wangfujing branch is excellent, and you can overlook Wangfujing Street.
We ordered the Afghan pilaf set meal, which has a good discount for the first order. The set meal is quite substantial. Besides the Afghan pilaf, it includes butter-aromatic lamb handi with rice, lamb kafta kebab, hummus with flatbread, chicken corn soup, and mango juice. Two people can barely finish it. We hardly touched the pilaf, so we packed it up to take home for dinner the next night.
Afghan pilaf originated in the border region between northern Afghanistan and Uzbekistan. It is called Qabili Palaw in Afghanistan and later spread from there to West Asia, Central Asia, and Pakistan. The difference between Afghan pilaf and Xinjiang pilaf is the use of Indian long-grain fragrant rice, a small amount of saffron for color, and the use of ghee and vegetable oil when cooking the meat. The carrots are sliced thinly, and they add cinnamon, cardamom, and cloves, so it has more of a spice flavor than Xinjiang pilaf. The clay pot curry is slow-cooked in a handi clay pot. Modern kitchens sometimes use pressure cookers, but the flavor is not as good.
Yili Loulan Restaurant Guijie branch.
The Yili Loulan Restaurant at the Xinqiao intersection didn't have a sign for a long time. I only noticed the sign recently, so I came to eat here after the Guijie festival.
Their shop is at the intersection of Guijie, and the prices are higher than the average Uyghur restaurant. I bought a set meal voucher for mixed noodles, which included a bowl of Yili signature minced meat mixed noodles (banmian), two lamb skewers, and a glass of kvass. The mixed noodles (banmian) come with extra noodles added directly, which is great. The noodles are quite authentic and have a firmer texture, which some people really enjoy. The minced meat is very flavorful and topped with a fried egg. However, the bowl they use makes it hard to scoop up the minced meat; it would be better if they served it on a plate. The grilled meat (kaorou) is very tender. I heard they ship their meat all the way from Yili, which is why the prices are higher than elsewhere.
If you want to satisfy a craving for Yili-style food (dost), this is a good place to come, though it is a bit pricey for a regular meal.
After work, I had lamb leg pilaf (zhuafan) at Yili Loulan Restaurant near the Beixinqiao intersection. It tasted excellent. You can tell the lamb is from Xinjiang; you cannot get this flavor from meat bought in Beijing. The restaurant gets quite busy on weekends. Last time I went at six, it was empty, but this time both the first and second floors were full. Maybe they were running out of pilaf, as the portion I got from the bottom of the pot had some dried-out carrots, but the overall taste was still very good. I have to complain about a restaurant run by people from Southern Xinjiang that I often visit; they have almost turned their pilaf into plain rice (ranfan).
Also, a heads-up: their wooden spoons have rough edges. I tried two and they both scratched my mouth, so please be careful.
Dianxinyuan Yunnan Cuisine
I went to Yizhuang for some errands on the weekend and stopped by Dianxinyuan for some Yunnan food. I ate at the original Dianxinyuan store many years ago and it left a deep impression on me. Because Yizhuang is so far away, it is not very convenient to visit, so it took many years before I ate there a second time. The new store has a very nice, clean, and bright interior.
The owner is a Hui Muslim named Lin from Shadian, Yunnan. The Lin family is a major clan in Shadian, with a saying that all members of the Lin family are elite. According to family records, the Shadian Lin family's ancestral home is in Putian, Fujian. They are descendants of Bigan from the Shang Dynasty and were given the surname Lin because their fief was at Changlin Mountain. In 1275 (the 11th year of the Zhiyuan era of the Yuan Dynasty), the ancestors of the Lin family entered Yunnan with the Xianyang King Sayyid Ajjal Shams al-Din, which led them to convert to Islam. Later, in the early years of the Chenghua era of the Ming Dynasty, the Lin family finally settled in Shadian.
We ordered their set meal for two, which included Gejiu tilapia, Shiping tofu, bridge-crossing rice noodles (guoqiao mixian), and assorted cold rice noodles. We also ordered crispy red beans and Yiliang roast duck, and drank Kunming mint water and Ruili mango juice. The skin of the Gejiu tilapia was grilled until slightly charred and wrinkled, and the meat was tender without falling apart. There were a few small bones, but not many overall. The Shiping tofu was soft and dense inside, but the skin was also soft, so it was not freshly pan-fried.
I highly recommend their rice noodles. If you are in Yizhuang on business by yourself, a bowl of rice noodles is a perfect meal. The broth for the bridge-crossing rice noodles is clear, fresh, and rich, and the ingredients are complete. After cooking, the rice noodles are smooth and refreshing. The assorted cold rice noodles have a very rich variety of side dishes, and the sweet and sour flavor is appetizing, while the cool texture is great for cutting through greasiness. The crispy red bean pastry (suhongdou) is crispy on the outside and powdery on the inside, but it is quite spicy, so Beijingers might find it too much. Yiliang roast duck (Yiliang kaoya) is the essence of Yunnan-style roast duck, with crispy skin and tender meat, lacking the heavy grease of Beijing-style roast duck, though the sauce here didn't taste as fragrant as what I had in Yunnan.
Muxiangyuan, a restaurant from Suihua, Heilongjiang.
On Saturday at noon, I went to Muxiangyuan, a restaurant from Suihua, Heilongjiang, that opened in Fangzhuang last year. I had previously eaten Heilongjiang Hui Muslim stir-fry in Harbin and thought it was excellent, so I was happy to have Heilongjiang food again in Beijing.
Their signature dishes are double-stir-fried meat (guobaorou) and braised meat strips (baroutiao). This time, I ordered stir-fried lamb liver (liuyanggan), stir-fried tofu skin with chili peppers (jianjiaogandoufu), and beef and pickled cabbage steamed dumplings (zhengjiao). The stir-fried lamb liver was very good. It wasn't too salty, the liver was very tender, and the kids loved it. The tofu skin is great with rice, but it's quite salty if you eat it alone. Northeastern food is naturally saltier than Beijing food, so friends (dost) who can't handle salt should mention it beforehand. The steamed dumplings were also delicious. The pickled cabbage added great flavor, and they were very juicy. You should bite into them and let them cool a bit before eating, or you might get burned.
Their prices are lower than many local Hui Muslim restaurants in Beijing. I ordered two dishes and a steamer of dumplings for only 90 yuan, which felt like a great deal.
Sanlitun Turkish Restaurant.
The Turkish cafe at the south entrance of Sanlitun SOHO used to be run by Dardanelles. I recently noticed the sign changed, and after asking, I found out it's now run by a couple from Urumqi. As a son-in-law from Urumqi, I consider them fellow hometown folks, haha. They still serve burgers, pizza, and Turkish fast food. We ordered a double beef burger, fries, cola, fried chicken nuggets, assorted pide, and also ordered falafel and rice pudding.
The taste is quite good, making it a great choice for friends (dost) who can't find Western-style fast food. The meat in the double beef burger was excellent and very satisfying to eat, though it would be even better if the bun was toasted a little. The pide was also very authentic, with a true Turkish flavor. The falafel was a bit hard, but the taste was fine, and the kids really liked the rice pudding.
Chaoyangmen Fast Food Stall.
Today I went to the halal fast food stall in the food court on the basement level of the Union Building outside Chaoyangmen. You can see the entrance to the food court after entering from the south gate of the Union Building, though it is a bit hidden.
There are 14 types of fast food, including chicken, duck, and fish. Two meat dishes and one vegetable dish cost 24 yuan, with free refills on rice and cornmeal porridge. The lady there is very enthusiastic toward everyone and calls everyone 'handsome'.
Chaoyangmen Fast Food Stall.
I went to the halal fast food stall in the food court on the basement level of the Union Building outside Chaoyangmen. You can see the entrance to the food court after entering from the south gate of the Union Building, though it is a bit hidden.
There are 14 types of fast food, including chicken, duck, and fish. Two meat dishes and one vegetable dish cost 24 yuan, with free refills on rice and cornmeal porridge. The lady there is very enthusiastic toward everyone and calls everyone 'handsome'.
Pakistani buffet at Habibi.
The Pakistani restaurant Habibi in Liudaokou specializes in buffets. It is really popular at lunch, and we had to wait a bit for a table, but we were seated quickly. The dishes are classic Pakistani food, mostly chicken, along with minced beef and lamb bones. They kept refilling the food while we were eating. The lamb bones were the most popular, and the freshly baked flatbread (naan) was very fragrant. Their curries are quite spicy, so there is not much for children to eat.
The lamb bones are prepared as korma, a type of curry stewed with coconut milk or yogurt. The word korma comes from the Turkic word qawirma, which originally meant fried, but it changed to mean stewed after entering the Urdu language. Korma is a typical Mughal court dish that originated in the 16th century. People say Shah Jahan ate korma with his guests at the banquet celebrating the completion of the Taj Mahal.
Another specialty of theirs is chicken porridge (haleem). Pakistani chicken porridge is similar to the meat porridge eaten by Hui Muslims, as both are often cooked for festivals and religious gatherings. The chicken is cooked for a long time until it completely breaks down. Once ready, it is topped with lemon, fried onions, and cilantro, and served with flatbread (naan) for a classic South Asian iftar meal.
A unique dessert is the syrup-soaked fried dough rings (jalebi). It originally came from West Asia and later spread to South Asia, becoming a classic dessert for Pakistani weddings and celebrations. In winter, it is often eaten with warm milk. Milk and flour balls (gulab jamun) are a classic dessert in South and Southeast Asia. They are fried balls made of cheese and flour, then soaked in rose water and saffron syrup. They can be served with ice cream and are a classic dessert for Pakistanis during Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha.
Their milk pudding is not too sweet, which is perfect for children. Suleiman also really likes their long-grain rice; he can eat a whole bowl plain.
They also have curry puffs (samosa), which are fried until very crispy.
Part 1: 10 halal restaurants in Beijing worth trying: Lahore Courtyard, Mai Mai Hong beef knife-cut noodles in Jiaozuo, Henan, Hulun Aile halal Mongolian food, West African Ghana Tribe Garden, Xing Lao Si meatball spicy soup in Xi'an, Jin Ying meatball soup in Changji, Xinjiang, Hotan Canteen in Xinjiang, BRBR Syrian restaurant, Gulou Eating Noodles fusion food in Beijing, and Xilaishun traditional Beijing food.
Part 2: 10 halal restaurants in Beijing worth trying (Part 2): Gulf Mandi Restaurant (UAE food), Xihan meatball soup at Xinjiang Mansion, Altai afternoon tea in the lobby of Xinjiang Mansion, Muhejia revolving hot pot, Nazilan in Urumqi, Xinjiang (closed), Baoyuanzhai pastries in Beijing (closed), China-Pakistan Friendship Restaurant (Pakistani samosas), Master Ma's roast duck (closed), Bengal Benjiebi Restaurant, and Shihu Cheng Resort in Huairou.
Part 3: 10 recently tried Beijing restaurant recommendations: JM Italian Coffee Dongsi branch, Huixiangyun halal Hunan stir-fry Wangjing branch (closed), Old Ma's lamb soup and steamed dumplings in Dezhou, Shandong, Philadelphia cheesesteak in Sanlitun, Pakistani Roma Restaurant, Muyuzhai garlic lamb intestines, Inner Mongolia Lianying shaomai (steamed dumplings) at Grassland Pomegranate Red, Gansu spicy hot pot in Wangfujing, and Yuezhen Yayuan halal courtyard restaurant.
Part 4: 10 halal restaurants in Beijing worth trying (Part 4): Hotan Rose Pilaf Yizhuang branch, Taiba Western-style bakery, Taiba South Sanlitun street shop, Zhaotong small meat skewers at Ganmaya BBQ on Guijie (closed), Bai Xiaobei Heilongjiang BBQ, Yunnan Muwenzhai dry-pot beef, Xinjiang restaurant Jiangjiang in Sanlitun, Huixiangyun halal Hunan restaurant Zuojiazhuang branch, Bazaar Sweetheart Yili ice cream shop, and Qianyuan Hotel in Dongzhimen.
Part 5: 10 halal restaurants in Beijing worth trying (Part 5): Sandyq Kazakhstan restaurant, Kashgar restaurant, Ahmed restaurant, Jingbalang Naan Bazaar, MacMac Lebanese restaurant, Humaer Xinjiang specialty food, Old Huihui dumpling restaurant Zoo branch, Fresh Milk Town Shuangjing branch (closed), Nawab restaurant, and Liu's Watch Repair and BBQ.
Part 6: 10 halal restaurants in Beijing worth trying (Part 6): Hongyunlou Huaiyang cuisine, Sanhe beef noodles (closed), JM Coffee and Bakery Daji Lane branch, Wanhe fatty beef, Xiangqing roast duck (closed), Culture Pakistani restaurant, Firenze Italian restaurant, Niujie Dashuntang, Zhenweizhai Tianjin cuisine, and Dardanelles children's meal. Collapse Read »
Best Turkmen Halal Food in Beijing: Merv, Asian Food and An-Nur Restaurants
Reposted from the web
Summary: This Beijing halal food guide visits three Turkmen restaurants: Merv, Asian Food, and An-Nur. It keeps the dishes, prices, locations, and Central Asian food details from the original travel notes.
Over the past two years, three Turkmenistan restaurants have opened in Beijing: Merv, Asian Food, and An-Nur. While they all focus on Turkmen cuisine with some Russian and Turkish dishes, each has a different target audience. Merv started in Sanlitun and later moved to the Ritan International Trade Center. It mainly serves merchants from the former Soviet Union who come to Ritan for wholesale goods, and its prices are similar to the nearby Azerbaijani restaurant. The other two are near the China University of Petroleum in Changping. They cater mostly to Central Asian students at the university, offering affordable fast food.
Merv
Let's start with Merv. We visited when they opened in Sanlitun SOHO last year. Back then, the place was quite small and the menu was simple. When we went back this year, they had moved to the basement of the Ritan International Trade Center. The shop is bigger, the environment is better, and you can even wear traditional Turkmen hats for photos. However, the new location is hidden and gets less foot traffic. It is mostly for merchants from former Soviet countries, so enjoy it while you can.
Merv is the most famous ancient oasis city in Turkmenistan. For thousands of years, it was a key transport hub connecting Baghdad and Samarkand, and it is a UNESCO World Heritage site. In 651, it became the capital of the Khorasan province of the Umayyad Caliphate. Later, it extended into the Abbasid Caliphate and was a famous center for Islamic scholarship in Central Asia. After 1037, Merv became a central city of the Seljuk Empire and served as its capital after the 12th century. By 1150, its population reached 2 million. Arab and Persian geographers called Merv the Mother of the World, the place where great and small meet, and the capital of the eastern Islamic world. It declined after the Mongol army sacked the city in 1221.
The restaurant focuses on local Turkmen food, but also serves Russian and Turkish dishes. We prioritize the Turkmen dishes. Russian food is hard to find outside of Ruilin near Ritan, so it is also worth a try. We ordered Turkmen soup, borscht (hongcaitang), capital salad (shoudu shala), buckwheat mash with gravy, Turkmen meat pie (fitchi), and Turkmen lamb soaked bread (dograma). Everything tasted great! Turkmen food is relatively light and focuses on natural flavors, making it suitable for both the elderly and children.
First, let's share the Turkmen dishes:
The Turkmen soup is actually a mung bean and meat porridge. It tastes excellent, made with beef broth, tomatoes, rice, and mung beans. It is very warming in winter.
The lamb soaked bread (dograma) is a classic feast dish for Eid al-Adha. It uses lamb broth with meat cooked until it falls off the bone, soaked with torn pieces of bread, and topped with onions and minced meat. It is very filling.
The meat pie (fitchi) is made with unleavened dough. The crust is thin, and it is filled with lamb and onions, seasoned with salt and black pepper. It is very similar to Xinjiang meat pies and tastes delicious.
For drinks, we ordered green tea and yogurt drink (ayran). Unlike Xinjiang restaurants, you have to pay for tea at this Turkmen restaurant.
Continuing with their Russian/Soviet dishes:
I really like their borscht (hongcaitang), which is a beef soup with beets and sour cream. The sweet, sour, and salty flavors are perfectly balanced, and it is not greasy.
The capital salad (shoudu shala) refers to Moscow. It is a standard Soviet salad made with diced boiled potatoes, carrots, cucumbers, peas, onions, eggs, and chicken, mixed with mayonnaise, salt, pepper, and yellow mustard. I think the capital salad (stolichny salat) at Merv is delicious and I highly recommend it. Early versions of Russian salad actually included seafood and caviar. During the Soviet era, due to food shortages, people started replacing crayfish with boiled eggs and carrots, sausage with chicken, and olives and capers with cucumbers and peas, which eventually created the capital salad we have today.
Buckwheat with minced meat is also a Soviet dish. Buckwheat porridge (kasha) has been a staple food in Russia for a thousand years and has been popular in East Slavic regions since the Middle Ages. Serving it with minced meat was a very classic home-cooked and cafeteria-style meal during the Soviet era. This was my first time eating buckwheat with minced meat, and it felt very healthy. The minced meat was salty and savory, perfect with rice, and the mashed potatoes served with it were very light. I originally thought the buckwheat would be quite dry, but they steamed it until it was very soft, with a texture like very chewy rice.
Later, I ordered the chicken buckwheat. The chicken was a pressed patty, not dry at all, very tender, and lighter than the minced meat version—a typical healthy meal by modern standards.
I have shared some special brunches in Beijing before, such as the Turkish breakfasts at Dardanelles and Sultan, or the pot tea and steamed dumplings (shaomai) at Lianying, and I recently discovered that Merv also has Turkmen breakfast! I made a special trip to eat it on a weekend morning.
Actually, this isn't strictly a breakfast menu because they are open 24 hours a day, so you can eat it anytime. I feel the main morning crowd consists of traders from the former Soviet Union who are adjusting to the time difference. However, sometimes if they sell well the night before, some dishes might be out of stock the next morning. Although you can choose heavy dishes in the morning, the first page of their menu has some items that are more suitable for breakfast. For example, cheese rolls, tomato and eggs, bread, and cheese. For soup, we had beef soup and ordered a pot of tea, though you can also drink coffee.
I recently discovered that my son really likes Merv; he eats the cheese rolls and tomato and eggs in big bites. Their tomato and eggs are very similar to the tomato omelet (omlet-e gojeh farangi) I ate in Iran before, where you stew the tomato sauce first, then beat the eggs into it, and finally dip bread into it. Their beef soup is stewed until very tender, but the soup is a little bit salty. Having borscht or lentil soup in the morning is also quite appropriate.
Asian Food
Besides Merv in Ritan, there are two other Turkmen restaurants in Changping, Beijing, called Asian Food and An-Noor, both near the China University of Political Science and Law and the China University of Petroleum. We went to Changping to hang out on Eid al-Fitr and happened to eat at Asian Food. Their shop is very small, and the people eating there are basically university students from the neighborhood. Both this place and An-Noor focus on being very affordable; they must be the cheapest Central Asian and Middle Eastern restaurants in Beijing!
They also serve Turkmen, Russian, and Turkish food, which I feel is a characteristic of Turkmen restaurants. We ordered mimosa salad, beef noodle soup, meat pie (ishlekli), rotisserie chicken (doner), and yogurt. Unfortunately, maybe because of the holiday, many Turkmen specialties were unavailable, so we couldn't order them.
Turkmen noodle soup is called unash. It uses alkaline noodles. Turkmen people choose a bowl of this soup first when they have a cold or feel chilly. You can add beans or yogurt to Turkmen noodle soup. We had the version with beef broth and tomatoes, which was very warming.
Mimosa salad is a classic Russian dish. It mainly contains cheese, eggs, canned fish, mashed potatoes, carrots, and mayonnaise. It is named for looking like mimosa flowers fallen on snow and became popular during the Soviet era.
Meat pie (ishlekli) is a typical Turkmen nomadic dish. Traditionally, Turkmen shepherds buried the pie in the hot sand of the Turkmen desert to bake it over charcoal. Now, Turkmen people in cities make it in ovens. The meat pie (ishlekli) has a lamb and potato filling. It is light, and the crust has a perfect texture. My child loved it.
They have two types of rotisserie chicken (doner). One uses thin flatbread like in Turkey, and the other uses a Central Asian style leavened bread. I recommend the latter. I ate this in Uzbekistan before. This leavened bread stuffed with rotisserie meat is very satisfying.
Finally, I highly recommend their yogurt. It was unexpectedly authentic, exactly like the homemade yogurt in Xinjiang! It might be one of the best yogurts in Beijing, and a big bottle only costs seven yuan! We finished it and bought another bottle to take home. I can't imagine how they make such pure yogurt using milk bought in Beijing. Only a few Uyghur restaurants in Beijing make yogurt that can compare to theirs.
An-Noor
I went to eat at another branch of An-Noor during the Qingming Festival. I specifically checked the China University of Petroleum website. In 2025, the university had 484 international students from the five Central Asian countries, many of whom are studying oil and gas engineering. Turkmenistan has very rich natural gas and oil reserves. It has the world's second-largest onshore gas field and is China's largest supplier of pipeline natural gas, so many students study at the China University of Petroleum.
The prices at An-Noor are still very affordable and suitable for students. It is much cheaper than the places near Ritan Upper Street. We ordered buckwheat with mashed potatoes and gravy, roasted chicken leg, pumpkin steamed dumplings (manti), beef turnover (chebureki), meatball noodles, Russian honey cake, Korean-style shredded carrots, and Turkish lentil soup. It only cost a little over one hundred yuan in total. They use QR code ordering, so you don't need to talk much. However, the Turkmen guy there speaks good Chinese and was very enthusiastic, even giving Suleiman some Turkmenistan chocolate.
Their buckwheat has a stronger flavor than the one at Merv. The sauce doesn't have meat, but it comes with two chicken patties. It only costs 24 yuan, which is a great deal. Suleiman really loves Russian-style buckwheat.
Their roasted chicken leg is also a great deal. A huge chicken leg is only 22 yuan. It is roasted until tender and fragrant, and it tastes great dipped in mayonnaise.
The Central Asian word manti comes from the Chinese word mantou. The earliest mantou actually had fillings, and the word still keeps this ancient meaning in the Wu dialect. Manti spread rapidly to Central Asia, West Asia, and as far as the Turkish Aegean coast during the Mongol Empire. It even reached the Balkans during the Ottoman period, but the preparation methods vary from place to place. Central Asian steamed dumplings (manti) are usually quite large, while the Turkish ones are smaller. Central Asian manti are basically the same as the thin-skinned steamed buns (baopi baozi) in Xinjiang. They also come with lamb or pumpkin fillings, and the pumpkin version is usually spicy. The difference is that Central Asian manti are dipped in yogurt, while the ones in Xinjiang are usually dipped in chili sauce. This place doesn't put much filling in their pumpkin manti, but getting 8 of them for 25 yuan is still a pretty good deal. Their yogurt is also very authentic and clearly homemade, but it seems they don't sell it separately, or we definitely would have bought some.
Fried meat pastry (cheburek) is a crispy meat-filled turnover. It was originally the national dish of the Crimean Tatars and later became very popular across the former Soviet Union and the former Ottoman regions. They sell 5 cheburek for 20 yuan, so at 4 yuan each, it is truly the cheapest I have ever eaten. The taste is great, too, and everyone really likes it.
Collapse Read »
Summary: This Beijing halal food guide visits three Turkmen restaurants: Merv, Asian Food, and An-Nur. It keeps the dishes, prices, locations, and Central Asian food details from the original travel notes.
Over the past two years, three Turkmenistan restaurants have opened in Beijing: Merv, Asian Food, and An-Nur. While they all focus on Turkmen cuisine with some Russian and Turkish dishes, each has a different target audience. Merv started in Sanlitun and later moved to the Ritan International Trade Center. It mainly serves merchants from the former Soviet Union who come to Ritan for wholesale goods, and its prices are similar to the nearby Azerbaijani restaurant. The other two are near the China University of Petroleum in Changping. They cater mostly to Central Asian students at the university, offering affordable fast food.
Merv
Let's start with Merv. We visited when they opened in Sanlitun SOHO last year. Back then, the place was quite small and the menu was simple. When we went back this year, they had moved to the basement of the Ritan International Trade Center. The shop is bigger, the environment is better, and you can even wear traditional Turkmen hats for photos. However, the new location is hidden and gets less foot traffic. It is mostly for merchants from former Soviet countries, so enjoy it while you can.
Merv is the most famous ancient oasis city in Turkmenistan. For thousands of years, it was a key transport hub connecting Baghdad and Samarkand, and it is a UNESCO World Heritage site. In 651, it became the capital of the Khorasan province of the Umayyad Caliphate. Later, it extended into the Abbasid Caliphate and was a famous center for Islamic scholarship in Central Asia. After 1037, Merv became a central city of the Seljuk Empire and served as its capital after the 12th century. By 1150, its population reached 2 million. Arab and Persian geographers called Merv the Mother of the World, the place where great and small meet, and the capital of the eastern Islamic world. It declined after the Mongol army sacked the city in 1221.
The restaurant focuses on local Turkmen food, but also serves Russian and Turkish dishes. We prioritize the Turkmen dishes. Russian food is hard to find outside of Ruilin near Ritan, so it is also worth a try. We ordered Turkmen soup, borscht (hongcaitang), capital salad (shoudu shala), buckwheat mash with gravy, Turkmen meat pie (fitchi), and Turkmen lamb soaked bread (dograma). Everything tasted great! Turkmen food is relatively light and focuses on natural flavors, making it suitable for both the elderly and children.
First, let's share the Turkmen dishes:
The Turkmen soup is actually a mung bean and meat porridge. It tastes excellent, made with beef broth, tomatoes, rice, and mung beans. It is very warming in winter.
The lamb soaked bread (dograma) is a classic feast dish for Eid al-Adha. It uses lamb broth with meat cooked until it falls off the bone, soaked with torn pieces of bread, and topped with onions and minced meat. It is very filling.
The meat pie (fitchi) is made with unleavened dough. The crust is thin, and it is filled with lamb and onions, seasoned with salt and black pepper. It is very similar to Xinjiang meat pies and tastes delicious.
For drinks, we ordered green tea and yogurt drink (ayran). Unlike Xinjiang restaurants, you have to pay for tea at this Turkmen restaurant.
Continuing with their Russian/Soviet dishes:
I really like their borscht (hongcaitang), which is a beef soup with beets and sour cream. The sweet, sour, and salty flavors are perfectly balanced, and it is not greasy.
The capital salad (shoudu shala) refers to Moscow. It is a standard Soviet salad made with diced boiled potatoes, carrots, cucumbers, peas, onions, eggs, and chicken, mixed with mayonnaise, salt, pepper, and yellow mustard. I think the capital salad (stolichny salat) at Merv is delicious and I highly recommend it. Early versions of Russian salad actually included seafood and caviar. During the Soviet era, due to food shortages, people started replacing crayfish with boiled eggs and carrots, sausage with chicken, and olives and capers with cucumbers and peas, which eventually created the capital salad we have today.
Buckwheat with minced meat is also a Soviet dish. Buckwheat porridge (kasha) has been a staple food in Russia for a thousand years and has been popular in East Slavic regions since the Middle Ages. Serving it with minced meat was a very classic home-cooked and cafeteria-style meal during the Soviet era. This was my first time eating buckwheat with minced meat, and it felt very healthy. The minced meat was salty and savory, perfect with rice, and the mashed potatoes served with it were very light. I originally thought the buckwheat would be quite dry, but they steamed it until it was very soft, with a texture like very chewy rice.
Later, I ordered the chicken buckwheat. The chicken was a pressed patty, not dry at all, very tender, and lighter than the minced meat version—a typical healthy meal by modern standards.
I have shared some special brunches in Beijing before, such as the Turkish breakfasts at Dardanelles and Sultan, or the pot tea and steamed dumplings (shaomai) at Lianying, and I recently discovered that Merv also has Turkmen breakfast! I made a special trip to eat it on a weekend morning.
Actually, this isn't strictly a breakfast menu because they are open 24 hours a day, so you can eat it anytime. I feel the main morning crowd consists of traders from the former Soviet Union who are adjusting to the time difference. However, sometimes if they sell well the night before, some dishes might be out of stock the next morning. Although you can choose heavy dishes in the morning, the first page of their menu has some items that are more suitable for breakfast. For example, cheese rolls, tomato and eggs, bread, and cheese. For soup, we had beef soup and ordered a pot of tea, though you can also drink coffee.
I recently discovered that my son really likes Merv; he eats the cheese rolls and tomato and eggs in big bites. Their tomato and eggs are very similar to the tomato omelet (omlet-e gojeh farangi) I ate in Iran before, where you stew the tomato sauce first, then beat the eggs into it, and finally dip bread into it. Their beef soup is stewed until very tender, but the soup is a little bit salty. Having borscht or lentil soup in the morning is also quite appropriate.
Asian Food
Besides Merv in Ritan, there are two other Turkmen restaurants in Changping, Beijing, called Asian Food and An-Noor, both near the China University of Political Science and Law and the China University of Petroleum. We went to Changping to hang out on Eid al-Fitr and happened to eat at Asian Food. Their shop is very small, and the people eating there are basically university students from the neighborhood. Both this place and An-Noor focus on being very affordable; they must be the cheapest Central Asian and Middle Eastern restaurants in Beijing!
They also serve Turkmen, Russian, and Turkish food, which I feel is a characteristic of Turkmen restaurants. We ordered mimosa salad, beef noodle soup, meat pie (ishlekli), rotisserie chicken (doner), and yogurt. Unfortunately, maybe because of the holiday, many Turkmen specialties were unavailable, so we couldn't order them.
Turkmen noodle soup is called unash. It uses alkaline noodles. Turkmen people choose a bowl of this soup first when they have a cold or feel chilly. You can add beans or yogurt to Turkmen noodle soup. We had the version with beef broth and tomatoes, which was very warming.
Mimosa salad is a classic Russian dish. It mainly contains cheese, eggs, canned fish, mashed potatoes, carrots, and mayonnaise. It is named for looking like mimosa flowers fallen on snow and became popular during the Soviet era.
Meat pie (ishlekli) is a typical Turkmen nomadic dish. Traditionally, Turkmen shepherds buried the pie in the hot sand of the Turkmen desert to bake it over charcoal. Now, Turkmen people in cities make it in ovens. The meat pie (ishlekli) has a lamb and potato filling. It is light, and the crust has a perfect texture. My child loved it.
They have two types of rotisserie chicken (doner). One uses thin flatbread like in Turkey, and the other uses a Central Asian style leavened bread. I recommend the latter. I ate this in Uzbekistan before. This leavened bread stuffed with rotisserie meat is very satisfying.
Finally, I highly recommend their yogurt. It was unexpectedly authentic, exactly like the homemade yogurt in Xinjiang! It might be one of the best yogurts in Beijing, and a big bottle only costs seven yuan! We finished it and bought another bottle to take home. I can't imagine how they make such pure yogurt using milk bought in Beijing. Only a few Uyghur restaurants in Beijing make yogurt that can compare to theirs.
An-Noor
I went to eat at another branch of An-Noor during the Qingming Festival. I specifically checked the China University of Petroleum website. In 2025, the university had 484 international students from the five Central Asian countries, many of whom are studying oil and gas engineering. Turkmenistan has very rich natural gas and oil reserves. It has the world's second-largest onshore gas field and is China's largest supplier of pipeline natural gas, so many students study at the China University of Petroleum.
The prices at An-Noor are still very affordable and suitable for students. It is much cheaper than the places near Ritan Upper Street. We ordered buckwheat with mashed potatoes and gravy, roasted chicken leg, pumpkin steamed dumplings (manti), beef turnover (chebureki), meatball noodles, Russian honey cake, Korean-style shredded carrots, and Turkish lentil soup. It only cost a little over one hundred yuan in total. They use QR code ordering, so you don't need to talk much. However, the Turkmen guy there speaks good Chinese and was very enthusiastic, even giving Suleiman some Turkmenistan chocolate.
Their buckwheat has a stronger flavor than the one at Merv. The sauce doesn't have meat, but it comes with two chicken patties. It only costs 24 yuan, which is a great deal. Suleiman really loves Russian-style buckwheat.
Their roasted chicken leg is also a great deal. A huge chicken leg is only 22 yuan. It is roasted until tender and fragrant, and it tastes great dipped in mayonnaise.
The Central Asian word manti comes from the Chinese word mantou. The earliest mantou actually had fillings, and the word still keeps this ancient meaning in the Wu dialect. Manti spread rapidly to Central Asia, West Asia, and as far as the Turkish Aegean coast during the Mongol Empire. It even reached the Balkans during the Ottoman period, but the preparation methods vary from place to place. Central Asian steamed dumplings (manti) are usually quite large, while the Turkish ones are smaller. Central Asian manti are basically the same as the thin-skinned steamed buns (baopi baozi) in Xinjiang. They also come with lamb or pumpkin fillings, and the pumpkin version is usually spicy. The difference is that Central Asian manti are dipped in yogurt, while the ones in Xinjiang are usually dipped in chili sauce. This place doesn't put much filling in their pumpkin manti, but getting 8 of them for 25 yuan is still a pretty good deal. Their yogurt is also very authentic and clearly homemade, but it seems they don't sell it separately, or we definitely would have bought some.
Fried meat pastry (cheburek) is a crispy meat-filled turnover. It was originally the national dish of the Crimean Tatars and later became very popular across the former Soviet Union and the former Ottoman regions. They sell 5 cheburek for 20 yuan, so at 4 yuan each, it is truly the cheapest I have ever eaten. The taste is great, too, and everyone really likes it.
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Hidden Gongbei in Guangyuan: Jiujing Sufi Shrine, Mujiapo Hui Village and Sichuan Mosque Road Trip
Reposted from the web
Summary: This Guangyuan finale follows Jiujing gongbei (Sufi shrine), Mujiapo Hui Muslim village, rural mosque history, and the last stretch of the Sichuan Spring Festival road trip.
I traveled north from Nanshan in Guangyuan, crossed the city center, and followed the Jialing River Grand Canyon deep into the mountains until I reached the border of Sichuan and Shaanxi, where the Jiujing Gongbei sits on a hillside next to the canyon. I personally consider this the most remarkable Gongbei in all of Sichuan.
Jiujing Gongbei, also known as Jingjue Pavilion (Jingjue Ting), was first built in 1702 (the 41st year of the Kangxi reign). It holds the tomb of Ma Xunyi, a disciple of Huazhe Abudonglaxi, who was a leader of the Qadiriyya Sufi order (menhuan). In 1721 (the 60th year of the Kangxi reign), the tomb also became the final resting place for Ma Yongqing and Mu Zaiqing, who were disciples of Ma Xunyi's fellow student, Qi Jingyi.
The 1702 tombstone for Ma Xunyi reads: 'Regarding the Ma family of the pure faith from Lintao, Hezhou, who traveled to teach in Jiujing, Guangyuan, and passed away here, this monument is erected.' The tomb of the late, respected Master Ma of the Qing dynasty. The landowners were Mu Zhixian and Mu Zhilin. Erected on an auspicious day, the 15th day of the ninth lunar month in the 41st year of the Kangxi reign, by his student Ha Chengyu.
The 'Stele Record for the Reconstruction of Jingjue Pavilion' dates to the 55th year of the Qianlong reign. The inscription mentions that Ma Xunyi began studying under Huazhe Abudonglaxi in the 25th year of the Kangxi reign. The text was written by Ma Gui, the great-grandson of Ma Xunyi and the caretaker of Jiujing Gongbei.
The 'Jingjue Pavilion' plaque from the 7th year of the Guangxu reign was gifted by Liu, a Jinshi degree holder specially appointed as the Magistrate of Guangyuan County, who received five promotions and ten commendations for his service. It was also erected by Ma Dengchao, who was specially appointed as the Garrison Commander of Guangyuan and granted the imperial peacock feather. These were Magistrate Liu of Guangyuan County and Garrison Commander Ma Dengchao.
Historical records confirm that the Guangyuan Magistrate in the 7th year of the Guangxu reign was Liu Xian. Liu Xian was from Qian County, Shaanxi. He was a diligent student from a young age. During his time as Magistrate of Guangyuan, he provided disaster relief, built bridges and roads, and improved irrigation, helping the people live comfortably. He was honest and upright, and people called him 'Blue Sky Liu' (Liu Qingtian).
Ma Dengchao was a local from Sichuan. During the Tongzhi and Guangxu reigns, he served as a fifth-rank military officer in the Green Standard Army, overseeing city defense, military affairs, and provisions in Guangyuan County. In the 12th year of the Tongzhi reign, he inscribed the words 'Only Pure, Only One' (Wei Jing Wei Yi) for the Shanghe Street Mosque in Guangyuan, which is still kept inside the mosque today.
Inside the Gongbei, there are several Chinese pistache trees (huanglianmu) over 300 years old, planted when the site was first built.
On the hillside near the Jiujing Gongbei is a Hui Muslim village called Mujiapo in Jiujingwan, and halfway up the mountain sits the Jiujing Mosque, which was first built during the Kangxi reign. The various Gongbei in Guangyuan are all built near Hui Muslim villages, where the Qadiriyya Sufi order and the Gedimu villagers live together in harmony.
Since the Ming dynasty, Jiujingwan has been an important land and water station for travelers moving from Hanzhong, Shaanxi, along the Jialing River to Chongqing. In the early Qing dynasty, Hui Muslim families named Mu, Ha, Ma, and Li moved here from Gansu and Shaanxi. It was named Mujiapo because the Mu family was the largest group, and today there are over 400 Hui Muslims living there. Because Mujiapo is located entirely on the slopes of the Jialing River canyon, the Hui Muslims mainly raise cattle and sheep, grow forage grass, and farm walnuts. 'Mujiapo' beef and mutton have become a famous brand in the northern Sichuan meat market.
There is a folk culture park on the mountain at Jiujing Mujiapo, and a restaurant serving Hui Muslim food by the Jialing River at the foot of the mountain. I could not try the food because it was Ramadan, so I will have to wait for another chance.
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Summary: This Guangyuan finale follows Jiujing gongbei (Sufi shrine), Mujiapo Hui Muslim village, rural mosque history, and the last stretch of the Sichuan Spring Festival road trip.
I traveled north from Nanshan in Guangyuan, crossed the city center, and followed the Jialing River Grand Canyon deep into the mountains until I reached the border of Sichuan and Shaanxi, where the Jiujing Gongbei sits on a hillside next to the canyon. I personally consider this the most remarkable Gongbei in all of Sichuan.
Jiujing Gongbei, also known as Jingjue Pavilion (Jingjue Ting), was first built in 1702 (the 41st year of the Kangxi reign). It holds the tomb of Ma Xunyi, a disciple of Huazhe Abudonglaxi, who was a leader of the Qadiriyya Sufi order (menhuan). In 1721 (the 60th year of the Kangxi reign), the tomb also became the final resting place for Ma Yongqing and Mu Zaiqing, who were disciples of Ma Xunyi's fellow student, Qi Jingyi.
The 1702 tombstone for Ma Xunyi reads: 'Regarding the Ma family of the pure faith from Lintao, Hezhou, who traveled to teach in Jiujing, Guangyuan, and passed away here, this monument is erected.' The tomb of the late, respected Master Ma of the Qing dynasty. The landowners were Mu Zhixian and Mu Zhilin. Erected on an auspicious day, the 15th day of the ninth lunar month in the 41st year of the Kangxi reign, by his student Ha Chengyu.
The 'Stele Record for the Reconstruction of Jingjue Pavilion' dates to the 55th year of the Qianlong reign. The inscription mentions that Ma Xunyi began studying under Huazhe Abudonglaxi in the 25th year of the Kangxi reign. The text was written by Ma Gui, the great-grandson of Ma Xunyi and the caretaker of Jiujing Gongbei.
The 'Jingjue Pavilion' plaque from the 7th year of the Guangxu reign was gifted by Liu, a Jinshi degree holder specially appointed as the Magistrate of Guangyuan County, who received five promotions and ten commendations for his service. It was also erected by Ma Dengchao, who was specially appointed as the Garrison Commander of Guangyuan and granted the imperial peacock feather. These were Magistrate Liu of Guangyuan County and Garrison Commander Ma Dengchao.
Historical records confirm that the Guangyuan Magistrate in the 7th year of the Guangxu reign was Liu Xian. Liu Xian was from Qian County, Shaanxi. He was a diligent student from a young age. During his time as Magistrate of Guangyuan, he provided disaster relief, built bridges and roads, and improved irrigation, helping the people live comfortably. He was honest and upright, and people called him 'Blue Sky Liu' (Liu Qingtian).
Ma Dengchao was a local from Sichuan. During the Tongzhi and Guangxu reigns, he served as a fifth-rank military officer in the Green Standard Army, overseeing city defense, military affairs, and provisions in Guangyuan County. In the 12th year of the Tongzhi reign, he inscribed the words 'Only Pure, Only One' (Wei Jing Wei Yi) for the Shanghe Street Mosque in Guangyuan, which is still kept inside the mosque today.
Inside the Gongbei, there are several Chinese pistache trees (huanglianmu) over 300 years old, planted when the site was first built.
On the hillside near the Jiujing Gongbei is a Hui Muslim village called Mujiapo in Jiujingwan, and halfway up the mountain sits the Jiujing Mosque, which was first built during the Kangxi reign. The various Gongbei in Guangyuan are all built near Hui Muslim villages, where the Qadiriyya Sufi order and the Gedimu villagers live together in harmony.
Since the Ming dynasty, Jiujingwan has been an important land and water station for travelers moving from Hanzhong, Shaanxi, along the Jialing River to Chongqing. In the early Qing dynasty, Hui Muslim families named Mu, Ha, Ma, and Li moved here from Gansu and Shaanxi. It was named Mujiapo because the Mu family was the largest group, and today there are over 400 Hui Muslims living there. Because Mujiapo is located entirely on the slopes of the Jialing River canyon, the Hui Muslims mainly raise cattle and sheep, grow forage grass, and farm walnuts. 'Mujiapo' beef and mutton have become a famous brand in the northern Sichuan meat market.
There is a folk culture park on the mountain at Jiujing Mujiapo, and a restaurant serving Hui Muslim food by the Jialing River at the foot of the mountain. I could not try the food because it was Ramadan, so I will have to wait for another chance.
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Hidden Gongbei in Guangyuan: Nanshan Sufi Shrine and Sichuan Hui Muslim Village
Reposted from the web
Summary: This Guangyuan road trip visits Nanshan gongbei (Sufi shrine), a Hui Muslim village, local religious history, and the mountain routes that shaped this stop in northern Sichuan.
On February 21, I headed north from Yanting, passed through Langzhong, and arrived at Nanshan in Guangyuan to visit the Langzhaoting gongbei and the Nanshan Hui Muslim village.
The Langzhaoting gongbei in Nanshan, Guangyuan, was originally called Yulongshan gongbei. It is a shrine built to honor the third-generation master, Master Ma, of the Qadiriyya Sufi order's Great Gongbei menhuan. Master Ma (1693-1778) was from Dongxiang, Linxia, Gansu. He studied religious texts from a young age and later, by chance, became a student of Master Ma Tengyi at the Taizi gongbei. Master Ma Tengyi explained the secrets of the religious, mystical, and ultimate truths to him, and Master Ma achieved a deep, sudden enlightenment. At age 24, Master Ma followed Master Ma Tengyi's instructions to go to Nanshan in Guangyuan for quiet, secluded practice. He built a thatched hut and spent over 60 years in deep meditation. Outside of his spiritual practice, he guided the local people, and many stories of his miracles have been passed down to this day. Because of his great virtue and the miracles he performed, many local people converted to the faith. After Master Ma passed away, the Guangyuan magistrate Ma Jialiang initiated the construction of the Langzhaoting gongbei. Later, generations of military and government officials in Guangyuan helped maintain it, leaving behind many stone inscriptions and plaques.
After 1996, the Taizi gongbei in Linxia gradually expanded the Langzhaoting site. In 2010, they rebuilt the main hall and side rooms, giving it the layout it has today. Behind the gongbei is a bamboo forest, and in front are terraced fields, making the scenery very beautiful.
The main hall of Langzhaoting features a mihrab in the style of Hezhou.
Inside the courtyard hangs a plaque titled "Embodying the Truth" (Ti Dao Gui Zhen), which was donated by military officers and soldiers of the Guangyuan garrison in the 12th year of the Daoguang reign.
The courtyard also preserves many stone carvings from the Qing Dynasty. The carvings feature traditional auspicious themes like "Peace and Prosperity," "Cranes and Pines for Longevity," and "Mastery of Both Literature and Martial Arts."
Many of the Qing Dynasty stone column bases were destroyed after 1958. This pair of stone lions still has column bases on them, which may have originally served as the base for a memorial archway.
The various stone inscriptions at Langzhaoting.
The oldest inscription dates back to the 42nd year of the Qianlong reign, which is the year Master Ma passed away and the gongbei was built. The top of the tablet is carved with a taiji symbol, which is very unique.
The inscription records that "Master Ma" began his studies at 14, traveled from Shaanxi to Sichuan at 24, and practiced in seclusion for over 60 years. It expresses deep respect for him. The signature belongs to a high-ranking official named Ma X from Anhui, who held titles including Fengzhi Dafu and acting magistrate of Guangyuan County.
Research shows the person who set up the tablet was Ma Jialiang, a Hui Muslim from Anqing, Anhui, and the builder of Langzhaoting. Ma Jialiang, whose courtesy name was Zhongheng, was the son of the famous Qing Dynasty Hui Muslim general and martial arts scholar Ma Dayong. He passed the imperial examinations in the 12th year of the Qianlong reign and served as a high official in several provinces. He rose from county magistrate to prefect, working in Henan, Shandong, Hubei, and Sichuan. He was once dismissed in Shandong for failing to notice the White Lotus Sect, but was later reappointed as the prefect of Huili, Sichuan, eventually ending his career as an acting magistrate in Guangyuan.
The second tablet is the "Record of Rebuilding the True Shrine" from the 59th year of the Qianlong reign. It mentions that in the 42nd year of Qianlong, the former magistrate Master Ma donated funds to build the shrine for the Master, and it was renovated again in the 59th year. The back of the tablet lists 16 religious leaders with the surnames Guo, Mu, Zheng, Min, Ma, Li, Sai, and Wang, along with 135 followers who donated funds.
The "Record of Rebuilding the True Shrine" from the 11th year of the Daoguang reign has the title "Crane in the Clouds" at the top. It refers to the gongbei as the "Nanshan Master Ma Gongbei." The first donor listed is Ma Tenglong, a commander from Chongqing, followed by Guangyuan garrison officer Ma Guangting and others. Ma Tenglong was a military general with many achievements during the middle and late Qing Dynasty. According to the Records of Chongqing Prefecture in the Daoguang Era, Ma Tenglong was from Chengdu, Sichuan, and joined the army in the 58th year of the Qianlong reign. In the 60th year of the Qianlong reign, he was ordered to lead troops to Guizhou and Hunan to help suppress the Miao uprising. In the 2nd year of the Jiaqing reign, he was transferred to the Hubei and Sichuan-Shaanxi regions to suppress the White Lotus Rebellion. In the 1st year of the Daoguang reign, he was promoted to commander-in-chief of the Gansu garrison. In the 3rd year of the Daoguang reign, he was transferred to be the commander-in-chief of the Shaanxi-Gansu garrison. In the 8th year of the Daoguang reign, he was appointed commander-in-chief of the Chongqing garrison to guard Chongqing.
The "Merits Last Forever" (Gongde Yongchui) stele from the 20th year of the Daoguang reign.
The Basmala (Tasimi) stele from the 11th year of the Daoguang reign also features the name of Ma Guangting, a captain (qianzong) of the Guangyuan Battalion.
The "Immortal Forever" (Yongchui Buxiu) stele from the 10th year of the Guangxu reign.
The "Forever Solid" (Yongyuan Weigu) stele from the 13th year of the Daoguang reign shows that the person in charge of the gongbei at that time was named Ma Yingkui.
After leaving the Nanshan gongbei, I went to the nearby Nanshan Mosque. This is a village of Hui Muslims deep in the Nanshan mountains of Guangyuan, and there has likely been very little written about it before.
Centered around the Hui Muslim village, Nanshan in Guangyuan is home to over 120 Hui Muslim households with the surnames Wang, Ma, Li, Tian, Zhou, Cha, and Zhao, with the Wang surname being the most common. Most of the Hui Muslims in Nanshan moved here from Xiaogan in Hubei and areas in Shaanxi and Gansu during the "Huguang Fills Sichuan" migration period of the Qing Dynasty, and they have been farming in the Nanshan mountains ever since. Due to wars, disasters, and economic reasons, the Nanshan Hui Muslims did not build a mosque for a long time. They had to hire an imam to conduct religious services in private homes, and at one point, they even had to travel to the Hejie Mosque in downtown Guangyuan, which was very inconvenient. In 2002, led by Wang Zhanrong, with the support of Imam Ma Wanquan from the Hejie Mosque in Guangyuan and the advocacy of Haji Ma Jianzhong, they raised funds and finally built the Nanshan Mosque in 2003.
The six main doors of the Nanshan Mosque are the original doors from the Qianlong era of the Hejie Mosque in Guangyuan, which are very precious. They feature very exquisite wood carvings.
There is a relaxed, slow life in the Nanshan Hui Muslim village. Next to the mosque are clean and tidy houses. The aunties sit around chatting and drying radishes, lettuce, and rapeseed that they couldn't finish eating. One auntie said that dried rapeseed is especially delicious when stir-fried with beef. Sitting here away from the hustle and bustle, it feels like time has slowed down.
The Hui Muslim cemetery in Nanshan has excellent scenery nearby and is very refreshing. There are bees kept near the houses, and the beehives are right by the road. I didn't feel scared even when standing close, and the honey from here must taste very good.
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Summary: This Guangyuan road trip visits Nanshan gongbei (Sufi shrine), a Hui Muslim village, local religious history, and the mountain routes that shaped this stop in northern Sichuan.
On February 21, I headed north from Yanting, passed through Langzhong, and arrived at Nanshan in Guangyuan to visit the Langzhaoting gongbei and the Nanshan Hui Muslim village.
The Langzhaoting gongbei in Nanshan, Guangyuan, was originally called Yulongshan gongbei. It is a shrine built to honor the third-generation master, Master Ma, of the Qadiriyya Sufi order's Great Gongbei menhuan. Master Ma (1693-1778) was from Dongxiang, Linxia, Gansu. He studied religious texts from a young age and later, by chance, became a student of Master Ma Tengyi at the Taizi gongbei. Master Ma Tengyi explained the secrets of the religious, mystical, and ultimate truths to him, and Master Ma achieved a deep, sudden enlightenment. At age 24, Master Ma followed Master Ma Tengyi's instructions to go to Nanshan in Guangyuan for quiet, secluded practice. He built a thatched hut and spent over 60 years in deep meditation. Outside of his spiritual practice, he guided the local people, and many stories of his miracles have been passed down to this day. Because of his great virtue and the miracles he performed, many local people converted to the faith. After Master Ma passed away, the Guangyuan magistrate Ma Jialiang initiated the construction of the Langzhaoting gongbei. Later, generations of military and government officials in Guangyuan helped maintain it, leaving behind many stone inscriptions and plaques.
After 1996, the Taizi gongbei in Linxia gradually expanded the Langzhaoting site. In 2010, they rebuilt the main hall and side rooms, giving it the layout it has today. Behind the gongbei is a bamboo forest, and in front are terraced fields, making the scenery very beautiful.
The main hall of Langzhaoting features a mihrab in the style of Hezhou.
Inside the courtyard hangs a plaque titled "Embodying the Truth" (Ti Dao Gui Zhen), which was donated by military officers and soldiers of the Guangyuan garrison in the 12th year of the Daoguang reign.
The courtyard also preserves many stone carvings from the Qing Dynasty. The carvings feature traditional auspicious themes like "Peace and Prosperity," "Cranes and Pines for Longevity," and "Mastery of Both Literature and Martial Arts."
Many of the Qing Dynasty stone column bases were destroyed after 1958. This pair of stone lions still has column bases on them, which may have originally served as the base for a memorial archway.
The various stone inscriptions at Langzhaoting.
The oldest inscription dates back to the 42nd year of the Qianlong reign, which is the year Master Ma passed away and the gongbei was built. The top of the tablet is carved with a taiji symbol, which is very unique.
The inscription records that "Master Ma" began his studies at 14, traveled from Shaanxi to Sichuan at 24, and practiced in seclusion for over 60 years. It expresses deep respect for him. The signature belongs to a high-ranking official named Ma X from Anhui, who held titles including Fengzhi Dafu and acting magistrate of Guangyuan County.
Research shows the person who set up the tablet was Ma Jialiang, a Hui Muslim from Anqing, Anhui, and the builder of Langzhaoting. Ma Jialiang, whose courtesy name was Zhongheng, was the son of the famous Qing Dynasty Hui Muslim general and martial arts scholar Ma Dayong. He passed the imperial examinations in the 12th year of the Qianlong reign and served as a high official in several provinces. He rose from county magistrate to prefect, working in Henan, Shandong, Hubei, and Sichuan. He was once dismissed in Shandong for failing to notice the White Lotus Sect, but was later reappointed as the prefect of Huili, Sichuan, eventually ending his career as an acting magistrate in Guangyuan.
The second tablet is the "Record of Rebuilding the True Shrine" from the 59th year of the Qianlong reign. It mentions that in the 42nd year of Qianlong, the former magistrate Master Ma donated funds to build the shrine for the Master, and it was renovated again in the 59th year. The back of the tablet lists 16 religious leaders with the surnames Guo, Mu, Zheng, Min, Ma, Li, Sai, and Wang, along with 135 followers who donated funds.
The "Record of Rebuilding the True Shrine" from the 11th year of the Daoguang reign has the title "Crane in the Clouds" at the top. It refers to the gongbei as the "Nanshan Master Ma Gongbei." The first donor listed is Ma Tenglong, a commander from Chongqing, followed by Guangyuan garrison officer Ma Guangting and others. Ma Tenglong was a military general with many achievements during the middle and late Qing Dynasty. According to the Records of Chongqing Prefecture in the Daoguang Era, Ma Tenglong was from Chengdu, Sichuan, and joined the army in the 58th year of the Qianlong reign. In the 60th year of the Qianlong reign, he was ordered to lead troops to Guizhou and Hunan to help suppress the Miao uprising. In the 2nd year of the Jiaqing reign, he was transferred to the Hubei and Sichuan-Shaanxi regions to suppress the White Lotus Rebellion. In the 1st year of the Daoguang reign, he was promoted to commander-in-chief of the Gansu garrison. In the 3rd year of the Daoguang reign, he was transferred to be the commander-in-chief of the Shaanxi-Gansu garrison. In the 8th year of the Daoguang reign, he was appointed commander-in-chief of the Chongqing garrison to guard Chongqing.
The "Merits Last Forever" (Gongde Yongchui) stele from the 20th year of the Daoguang reign.
The Basmala (Tasimi) stele from the 11th year of the Daoguang reign also features the name of Ma Guangting, a captain (qianzong) of the Guangyuan Battalion.
The "Immortal Forever" (Yongchui Buxiu) stele from the 10th year of the Guangxu reign.
The "Forever Solid" (Yongyuan Weigu) stele from the 13th year of the Daoguang reign shows that the person in charge of the gongbei at that time was named Ma Yingkui.
After leaving the Nanshan gongbei, I went to the nearby Nanshan Mosque. This is a village of Hui Muslims deep in the Nanshan mountains of Guangyuan, and there has likely been very little written about it before.
Centered around the Hui Muslim village, Nanshan in Guangyuan is home to over 120 Hui Muslim households with the surnames Wang, Ma, Li, Tian, Zhou, Cha, and Zhao, with the Wang surname being the most common. Most of the Hui Muslims in Nanshan moved here from Xiaogan in Hubei and areas in Shaanxi and Gansu during the "Huguang Fills Sichuan" migration period of the Qing Dynasty, and they have been farming in the Nanshan mountains ever since. Due to wars, disasters, and economic reasons, the Nanshan Hui Muslims did not build a mosque for a long time. They had to hire an imam to conduct religious services in private homes, and at one point, they even had to travel to the Hejie Mosque in downtown Guangyuan, which was very inconvenient. In 2002, led by Wang Zhanrong, with the support of Imam Ma Wanquan from the Hejie Mosque in Guangyuan and the advocacy of Haji Ma Jianzhong, they raised funds and finally built the Nanshan Mosque in 2003.
The six main doors of the Nanshan Mosque are the original doors from the Qianlong era of the Hejie Mosque in Guangyuan, which are very precious. They feature very exquisite wood carvings.
There is a relaxed, slow life in the Nanshan Hui Muslim village. Next to the mosque are clean and tidy houses. The aunties sit around chatting and drying radishes, lettuce, and rapeseed that they couldn't finish eating. One auntie said that dried rapeseed is especially delicious when stir-fried with beef. Sitting here away from the hustle and bustle, it feels like time has slowed down.
The Hui Muslim cemetery in Nanshan has excellent scenery nearby and is very refreshing. There are bees kept near the houses, and the beehives are right by the road. I didn't feel scared even when standing close, and the honey from here must taste very good.
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Nowruz in Beijing: Persian New Year Food, Music and Muslim Community Celebration
Reposted from the web
Summary: This Beijing Nowruz account records a Persian New Year gathering with food, music, guests from many countries, and the cultural details of the celebration as described in the source.
March 21st this year is the Persian New Year. Many countries influenced by Persian culture celebrate the Nowruz festival during this time, including Afghanistan, Albania, Azerbaijan, India, Iran, Iraq (Kurdish region), Syria (Kurdish region), Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Pakistan, Tajikistan, Turkey (Kurdish region), Turkmenistan, and Uzbekistan.
After the Afghan Taliban came to power in 2022, they stated that Nowruz would not be a public holiday, but they still allowed celebrations to take place. In Albania, Sunni Muslims, Catholics, and Orthodox Christians celebrate Nowruz together to welcome the arrival of spring. Shia Muslims believe that Nowruz is the day Imam Ali became Caliph, so they place special importance on it, performing special acts of worship and offering blessings.
On Sunday, March 29th, the Embassy of Kazakhstan in China, the Ministry of Culture and Information of Kazakhstan, and the Kazakhstan Cultural Center in Beijing held a Nowruz festival event at Chaoyang Park in Beijing. They invited national-level orchestras and dance troupes from Kazakhstan, along with many Kazakh cultural products, festive foods, and traditional clothing. It was a great opportunity to learn about Nowruz and Kazakh culture.
Speech by the Ambassador of Kazakhstan to China.
This shows the Kazakh first-steps ceremony (Tusau Keser). It is a life-initiation ritual held when a Kazakh baby turns one year old. The core of the ceremony is cutting the rope tied to the child's legs, which symbolizes breaking free from constraints and starting a path toward an independent life. After the rope is cut, an elder leads the child forward. Items like books, pens, a two-stringed lute (dombra), coins, and knives are placed on the ground for the child to grab, similar to the traditional 'grabbing the first birthday gift' custom. Finally, everyone offers blessings to the child and tosses candies, dried yogurt balls (kurt), and coins into the air.
The event featured Kazakhstan's top orchestra, Astana Sazy (Rhythm of Astana). Here are a few clips of them accompanying excellent Kazakh singers.
Astana Sazy is the national folk orchestra of Kazakhstan, affiliated with the state performance organization 'Kazakh Concert.' It is the core group for promoting traditional music and cultural diplomacy in Kazakhstan. The orchestra uses traditional Kazakh instruments like the zither (jetigen), the two-stringed lute (dombra), and the bowed string instrument (kobyz). Rooted in Kazakh nomadic culture, they are famous for playing folk music.
A wonderful performance by two Kazakh musicians playing and singing with the two-stringed lute (dombra).
The event featured the national-level Kazakh folk song and dance troupe, Gulder Ensemble. The troupe was formed in 1969. It started as an all-female group and debuted with the dance drama 'Steppe Movement,' which was praised as 'a bouquet picked from the snowy peaks of Alatau scattered across the stage.' In the 1970s, the troupe traveled throughout the Soviet Union and later went abroad, touring in Belgium, Germany, Malaysia, and Cuba, training a group of legendary Kazakh dancers. The troupe was quiet for a time until it was relaunched in 2023 with a new lineup at the Kazakhstan Central Concert Hall, allowing a new generation of audiences to experience the charm of traditional Kazakh folk dance.
We drank Nowruz porridge (Nauryz Kozhe) and boiled fruit drink (Compote), and ate Kazakh fried dough pastry (Shek-Shek) and chicken baked buns (Samsa).
Nowruz porridge can only be eaten once a year during the Nowruz festival. Kazakh Nowruz porridge must contain at least seven ingredients, including barley, rice, wheat, smoked horse meat, dried yogurt balls (kurt), salt, and water. These foods are made with winter-slaughtered meat and stored grain, expressing the wish for abundance year after year.
Compote is made by boiling water with sugar and fruits like plums, cherries, or apples. In summer, fresh fruit is used, and in winter, dried fruit is used. I drank water boiled with dried apples, which is a drink frequently served at Kazakh banquets and in daily life.
Fried dough pastry (Shek-Shek) is a must-have snack for Kazakh weddings, Nowruz, and other festivals, symbolizing sweetness, reunion, and a good harvest. To make it, flour is mixed with eggs, rolled into strips, cut into pieces, and fried until golden and crispy. Then, honey syrup is drizzled over it, and it is sprinkled with nuts and dried fruit after cooling. Honey cake (chak-chak) is very common in Tatarstan and among other Central Asian peoples. The Tatars call it chak-chak, and I even visited a chak-chak museum in Kazan.
Everyone took turns taking photos with the Kazakh warriors, who were at least two meters tall.
Kazakh shredded meat pilaf (plov) is full of carrots.
Fried dough puffs (baursak).
During the Nowruz festival, the Kazakh restaurant Sandyq in Beijing hosts traditional Kazakh music performances every night at 7:30, and they give away free fried dough puffs (baursak) and Nowruz porridge.
We also ate sheep tail and liver (kuyryk bauyr), meat-filled pies (baramysh), horse meat noodle soup (tomyrtqa), and millet milk tea (talqan), which are all classic Kazakh dishes.
Kuyryk bauyr literally means sheep tail and liver. It is stir-fried with only salt and served with yogurt. This is a classic dish for Kazakh engagement ceremonies. After the bride's family slaughters a sheep, the elders serve the sheep tail and liver to the groom's guests while singing blessings. If you don't eat it, they might jokingly pretend to sew your clothes to the felt mat or smear oil on your face, symbolizing that the two families are officially joined and cannot back out. There is a Kazakh proverb that says, 'Only after eating the sheep tail and liver is the marriage officially set.'
Meat-filled pie (baramysh) is a leavened dough pastry that originated with the Tatars and Bashkirs. It spread to the Kazakhs in the 19th century and became a classic street food during the Soviet era. Like baked buns (samsa), baramysh is filled with lamb and onions, but it uses leavened dough. The top is left open, the edges are pinched shut, and it is deep-fried until golden. It is best eaten dipped in tomato sauce and paired with milk tea.
Horse meat noodle soup (tomyrtqa sorpasy) is the noodle soup version of meat and noodles (naryn), making it perfect for winter. This one-pot dish of boiled meat and noodles is perfect for festivals, hosting guests, and moving between nomadic pastures. To make it, boil the horse meat first, then cook the noodles in the broth. It is rich, salty, and savory, with the unique smoky flavor of smoked horse meat.
Kazakh millet milk tea (talqan) is made by boiling broomcorn millet, brick tea, milk, and salt. The golden millet grains are washed, roasted, and hulled to become crispy, adding a toasted grain aroma to the milk tea.
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Summary: This Beijing Nowruz account records a Persian New Year gathering with food, music, guests from many countries, and the cultural details of the celebration as described in the source.
March 21st this year is the Persian New Year. Many countries influenced by Persian culture celebrate the Nowruz festival during this time, including Afghanistan, Albania, Azerbaijan, India, Iran, Iraq (Kurdish region), Syria (Kurdish region), Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Pakistan, Tajikistan, Turkey (Kurdish region), Turkmenistan, and Uzbekistan.
After the Afghan Taliban came to power in 2022, they stated that Nowruz would not be a public holiday, but they still allowed celebrations to take place. In Albania, Sunni Muslims, Catholics, and Orthodox Christians celebrate Nowruz together to welcome the arrival of spring. Shia Muslims believe that Nowruz is the day Imam Ali became Caliph, so they place special importance on it, performing special acts of worship and offering blessings.
On Sunday, March 29th, the Embassy of Kazakhstan in China, the Ministry of Culture and Information of Kazakhstan, and the Kazakhstan Cultural Center in Beijing held a Nowruz festival event at Chaoyang Park in Beijing. They invited national-level orchestras and dance troupes from Kazakhstan, along with many Kazakh cultural products, festive foods, and traditional clothing. It was a great opportunity to learn about Nowruz and Kazakh culture.
Speech by the Ambassador of Kazakhstan to China.
This shows the Kazakh first-steps ceremony (Tusau Keser). It is a life-initiation ritual held when a Kazakh baby turns one year old. The core of the ceremony is cutting the rope tied to the child's legs, which symbolizes breaking free from constraints and starting a path toward an independent life. After the rope is cut, an elder leads the child forward. Items like books, pens, a two-stringed lute (dombra), coins, and knives are placed on the ground for the child to grab, similar to the traditional 'grabbing the first birthday gift' custom. Finally, everyone offers blessings to the child and tosses candies, dried yogurt balls (kurt), and coins into the air.
The event featured Kazakhstan's top orchestra, Astana Sazy (Rhythm of Astana). Here are a few clips of them accompanying excellent Kazakh singers.
Astana Sazy is the national folk orchestra of Kazakhstan, affiliated with the state performance organization 'Kazakh Concert.' It is the core group for promoting traditional music and cultural diplomacy in Kazakhstan. The orchestra uses traditional Kazakh instruments like the zither (jetigen), the two-stringed lute (dombra), and the bowed string instrument (kobyz). Rooted in Kazakh nomadic culture, they are famous for playing folk music.
A wonderful performance by two Kazakh musicians playing and singing with the two-stringed lute (dombra).
The event featured the national-level Kazakh folk song and dance troupe, Gulder Ensemble. The troupe was formed in 1969. It started as an all-female group and debuted with the dance drama 'Steppe Movement,' which was praised as 'a bouquet picked from the snowy peaks of Alatau scattered across the stage.' In the 1970s, the troupe traveled throughout the Soviet Union and later went abroad, touring in Belgium, Germany, Malaysia, and Cuba, training a group of legendary Kazakh dancers. The troupe was quiet for a time until it was relaunched in 2023 with a new lineup at the Kazakhstan Central Concert Hall, allowing a new generation of audiences to experience the charm of traditional Kazakh folk dance.
We drank Nowruz porridge (Nauryz Kozhe) and boiled fruit drink (Compote), and ate Kazakh fried dough pastry (Shek-Shek) and chicken baked buns (Samsa).
Nowruz porridge can only be eaten once a year during the Nowruz festival. Kazakh Nowruz porridge must contain at least seven ingredients, including barley, rice, wheat, smoked horse meat, dried yogurt balls (kurt), salt, and water. These foods are made with winter-slaughtered meat and stored grain, expressing the wish for abundance year after year.
Compote is made by boiling water with sugar and fruits like plums, cherries, or apples. In summer, fresh fruit is used, and in winter, dried fruit is used. I drank water boiled with dried apples, which is a drink frequently served at Kazakh banquets and in daily life.
Fried dough pastry (Shek-Shek) is a must-have snack for Kazakh weddings, Nowruz, and other festivals, symbolizing sweetness, reunion, and a good harvest. To make it, flour is mixed with eggs, rolled into strips, cut into pieces, and fried until golden and crispy. Then, honey syrup is drizzled over it, and it is sprinkled with nuts and dried fruit after cooling. Honey cake (chak-chak) is very common in Tatarstan and among other Central Asian peoples. The Tatars call it chak-chak, and I even visited a chak-chak museum in Kazan.
Everyone took turns taking photos with the Kazakh warriors, who were at least two meters tall.
Kazakh shredded meat pilaf (plov) is full of carrots.
Fried dough puffs (baursak).
During the Nowruz festival, the Kazakh restaurant Sandyq in Beijing hosts traditional Kazakh music performances every night at 7:30, and they give away free fried dough puffs (baursak) and Nowruz porridge.
We also ate sheep tail and liver (kuyryk bauyr), meat-filled pies (baramysh), horse meat noodle soup (tomyrtqa), and millet milk tea (talqan), which are all classic Kazakh dishes.
Kuyryk bauyr literally means sheep tail and liver. It is stir-fried with only salt and served with yogurt. This is a classic dish for Kazakh engagement ceremonies. After the bride's family slaughters a sheep, the elders serve the sheep tail and liver to the groom's guests while singing blessings. If you don't eat it, they might jokingly pretend to sew your clothes to the felt mat or smear oil on your face, symbolizing that the two families are officially joined and cannot back out. There is a Kazakh proverb that says, 'Only after eating the sheep tail and liver is the marriage officially set.'
Meat-filled pie (baramysh) is a leavened dough pastry that originated with the Tatars and Bashkirs. It spread to the Kazakhs in the 19th century and became a classic street food during the Soviet era. Like baked buns (samsa), baramysh is filled with lamb and onions, but it uses leavened dough. The top is left open, the edges are pinched shut, and it is deep-fried until golden. It is best eaten dipped in tomato sauce and paired with milk tea.
Horse meat noodle soup (tomyrtqa sorpasy) is the noodle soup version of meat and noodles (naryn), making it perfect for winter. This one-pot dish of boiled meat and noodles is perfect for festivals, hosting guests, and moving between nomadic pastures. To make it, boil the horse meat first, then cook the noodles in the broth. It is rich, salty, and savory, with the unique smoky flavor of smoked horse meat.
Kazakh millet milk tea (talqan) is made by boiling broomcorn millet, brick tea, milk, and salt. The golden millet grains are washed, roasted, and hulled to become crispy, adding a toasted grain aroma to the milk tea.
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Beijing Ramadan 2026 Diary: Laylat al-Qadr, Eid al-Fitr and Hui Muslim Food
Reposted from the web
Summary: This second Beijing Ramadan diary covers Jingzhe, Laylat al-Qadr, Eid al-Fitr, mosque gatherings, Hui Muslim food, and the closing days of Ramadan in clear English.
Awakening of Insects (Jingzhe)
This year, Ramadan falls during the Awakening of Insects, so Hui Muslims in Xinjiang will drink Awakening of Insects soup (jingzhe tang), also known as Awakening of Insects oil tea egg (jingzhe youcha dan). It is made by chopping walnuts, raisins, and red dates, coating them in egg wash, stir-frying them in mutton fat, and then pouring in brewed brick tea. The resulting soup has the aroma of mutton fat, dried fruit, eggs, and tea, which children really love.
The Awakening of Insects is one of the twenty-four solar terms, marking the time when all things wake up. In the past, medical care was limited and tuberculosis (shanglao) was a deadly disease. After the Awakening of Insects, temperatures rise and germs become active, so people used a combination of nutritious eggs, oil, and dried fruit with warm tea to pray for health, shake off winter fatigue, and boost their energy.
Night of Power (Laylat al-Qadr)
The twenty-seventh night of Ramadan is always the busiest day at every mosque, and this year Madian Mosque set up fifteen tables, making it very lively. Before breaking the fast, the imam recites the scripture. After breaking the fast, we are served two plates of fruit and pastries. After the sunset prayer (maghrib), nine dishes are served: braised prawns in oil, stir-fried shrimp with milk, braised flatfish, fried tofu, braised eggplant, stewed beef brisket with radish, stewed lamb with potatoes, stir-fried meat with scallions, and braised meat balls (songrou). I sat at a table with international students from various countries, and everyone really enjoyed the food.
Besides the two Eids (Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha) and the two major gatherings (the Prophet's birthday and the Fatimah gathering), the Night of Power is likely the most important day for Hui Muslims. The Night of Power is also called the "Night Vigil" or "Night Head Festival." People say the scripture was first revealed on this night, which is better than a thousand months, so it is a time to do many good deeds. Everyone bathes, changes into clean clothes, goes to the mosque, greets each other with salaam, listens to the imam's recitation, completes their prayers, and shares a meal. Using the mosque as a gathering place and affection as a bridge, we seek blessings and look out for peace.
In the evening, the whole family celebrated the Night of Power at the Sudanese Embassy. The embassy building was fully lit, and the courtyard was filled with cars from various embassies. Besides coffee and black tea, there were also pastries donated (sadqa) by people from Changying Township.
Today was the busiest night at the embassy, and even the lobby was completely full. By the eighth rak'ah of the Taraweeh prayer, the entire scripture had been completed. During the final rak'ah, a half-hour long dua was made. The imam sounded like he was weeping, his voice was hoarse, and he was once moved to tears, crying "Ya Allah, Ya Allah," which was incredibly moving.
Eid al-Fitr
This year, Eid al-Fitr falls on a Saturday, so no one needs to ask for time off, which is why there are so many people. Our whole family headed straight to the Sudanese Embassy in the morning. Many people wore traditional clothing today, and I also wore a hexagonal cap (gedimu) from North China made by a friend. Today, not only was the building full, but the embassy courtyard was also packed with friends (dosti) from Africa, the Arab world, South Asia, and all over China. It was a very blessed occasion.
After the Eid prayer, some friends (dosti) brought homemade fried triangular pastries (sambusa) and chicken wraps (shawarma) from home, and we all enjoyed the delicious food together.
The fried triangular pastry (sambusa) originated in Iran. After the 10th century, it spread to the Arab region along trade and pilgrimage routes. In countries like Saudi Arabia and Yemen, the sambusa is an essential and iconic food for iftar and Eid al-Fitr. Compared to the South Asian samosa, which also comes from Iran, the Arab sambusa is smaller with a thinner crust. The filling is usually made of minced meat, onions, cilantro, and cinnamon.
After leaving the Sudanese Embassy, we went to Fayuan Mosque in Dewai to experience the atmosphere of a Chinese-style Eid al-Fitr. Fayuan Mosque holds the latest Eid prayer in the Xicheng District, which gives people who missed the prayers at other mosques a chance to attend. The place was very crowded, and those of us who arrived late could not get into the main prayer hall. After the prayer, we enjoyed fried dough (youxiang) and various pastries, but it was a pity that we did not get to have any meat porridge this year.
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Summary: This second Beijing Ramadan diary covers Jingzhe, Laylat al-Qadr, Eid al-Fitr, mosque gatherings, Hui Muslim food, and the closing days of Ramadan in clear English.
Awakening of Insects (Jingzhe)
This year, Ramadan falls during the Awakening of Insects, so Hui Muslims in Xinjiang will drink Awakening of Insects soup (jingzhe tang), also known as Awakening of Insects oil tea egg (jingzhe youcha dan). It is made by chopping walnuts, raisins, and red dates, coating them in egg wash, stir-frying them in mutton fat, and then pouring in brewed brick tea. The resulting soup has the aroma of mutton fat, dried fruit, eggs, and tea, which children really love.
The Awakening of Insects is one of the twenty-four solar terms, marking the time when all things wake up. In the past, medical care was limited and tuberculosis (shanglao) was a deadly disease. After the Awakening of Insects, temperatures rise and germs become active, so people used a combination of nutritious eggs, oil, and dried fruit with warm tea to pray for health, shake off winter fatigue, and boost their energy.
Night of Power (Laylat al-Qadr)
The twenty-seventh night of Ramadan is always the busiest day at every mosque, and this year Madian Mosque set up fifteen tables, making it very lively. Before breaking the fast, the imam recites the scripture. After breaking the fast, we are served two plates of fruit and pastries. After the sunset prayer (maghrib), nine dishes are served: braised prawns in oil, stir-fried shrimp with milk, braised flatfish, fried tofu, braised eggplant, stewed beef brisket with radish, stewed lamb with potatoes, stir-fried meat with scallions, and braised meat balls (songrou). I sat at a table with international students from various countries, and everyone really enjoyed the food.
Besides the two Eids (Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha) and the two major gatherings (the Prophet's birthday and the Fatimah gathering), the Night of Power is likely the most important day for Hui Muslims. The Night of Power is also called the "Night Vigil" or "Night Head Festival." People say the scripture was first revealed on this night, which is better than a thousand months, so it is a time to do many good deeds. Everyone bathes, changes into clean clothes, goes to the mosque, greets each other with salaam, listens to the imam's recitation, completes their prayers, and shares a meal. Using the mosque as a gathering place and affection as a bridge, we seek blessings and look out for peace.
In the evening, the whole family celebrated the Night of Power at the Sudanese Embassy. The embassy building was fully lit, and the courtyard was filled with cars from various embassies. Besides coffee and black tea, there were also pastries donated (sadqa) by people from Changying Township.
Today was the busiest night at the embassy, and even the lobby was completely full. By the eighth rak'ah of the Taraweeh prayer, the entire scripture had been completed. During the final rak'ah, a half-hour long dua was made. The imam sounded like he was weeping, his voice was hoarse, and he was once moved to tears, crying "Ya Allah, Ya Allah," which was incredibly moving.
Eid al-Fitr
This year, Eid al-Fitr falls on a Saturday, so no one needs to ask for time off, which is why there are so many people. Our whole family headed straight to the Sudanese Embassy in the morning. Many people wore traditional clothing today, and I also wore a hexagonal cap (gedimu) from North China made by a friend. Today, not only was the building full, but the embassy courtyard was also packed with friends (dosti) from Africa, the Arab world, South Asia, and all over China. It was a very blessed occasion.
After the Eid prayer, some friends (dosti) brought homemade fried triangular pastries (sambusa) and chicken wraps (shawarma) from home, and we all enjoyed the delicious food together.
The fried triangular pastry (sambusa) originated in Iran. After the 10th century, it spread to the Arab region along trade and pilgrimage routes. In countries like Saudi Arabia and Yemen, the sambusa is an essential and iconic food for iftar and Eid al-Fitr. Compared to the South Asian samosa, which also comes from Iran, the Arab sambusa is smaller with a thinner crust. The filling is usually made of minced meat, onions, cilantro, and cinnamon.
After leaving the Sudanese Embassy, we went to Fayuan Mosque in Dewai to experience the atmosphere of a Chinese-style Eid al-Fitr. Fayuan Mosque holds the latest Eid prayer in the Xicheng District, which gives people who missed the prayers at other mosques a chance to attend. The place was very crowded, and those of us who arrived late could not get into the main prayer hall. After the prayer, we enjoyed fried dough (youxiang) and various pastries, but it was a pity that we did not get to have any meat porridge this year.
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Beijing Ramadan 2026 Diary: Madian Mosque, Fayuan Mosque, Sudan Embassy Iftar and Hui Meals
Reposted from the web
Summary: This Beijing Ramadan 2026 diary follows iftar meals and mosque visits at Madian, Fayuan, Zhengyuan, Nanxiaopo, Dongwai, Houheyan, and the Sudan Embassy, with food and community details kept in full.
I returned to Beijing from Sichuan during the second week of Ramadan. This year, I had to take my son to kindergarten by electric scooter every morning, so I couldn't break my fast at Balizhuang like I did last year (see 'A Wonderful Look Back at Ramadan 2025 in Beijing Balizhuang'). Instead, I mostly went to the mosques near my office and home. I visited seven in total: Madian Mosque, Fayuan Mosque, Zhengyuan Mosque, Nanxiaopo Mosque, Dongwai Mosque, Houheyuan Mosque, and the Sudan Embassy. I will share them with you below.
Madian Mosque
Madian Mosque is the closest mosque to my office, and it is the one I visited the most. The iftar at Madian Mosque is quite generous. Before breaking the fast, there is a plate of fruit and a plate of pastries. After breaking the fast, there are noodles, stir-fried dishes, stir-fried dough bits (chaogeda), steamed buns (baozi), and more. Usually, there are two tables of international students, one table of friends (dosti) from Northwest China, one table of female elders, and one table of male elders at iftar. I met many old friends and made many new ones at Madian Mosque this year, which was very blessed. We set up over a dozen tables in the courtyard for the Night of Power (Laylat al-Qadr), which I will write about in my next post.
Madian is located on the Jingbei Avenue outside Deshengmen in Beijing. After the Ming Dynasty overthrew the Yuan Dynasty, they moved the northern wall of the capital city south. However, the main road from Beijing through Deshengmen to outside the Great Wall still passed through the Jiande Gate gap of the Yuan capital. The trade of horses, cattle, and sheep coming from the north gradually formed a market inside the Jiande Gate gap, attracting a large number of Hui Muslims to settle there. It was said that the number of Hui Muslims there was no less than at Niujie. Since the Qing Dynasty, hundreds of thousands of cattle, sheep, and horses entered Beijing from Mongolia via Zhangjiakou every year. Hui Muslims opened many horse shops and sheep shops in Madian, responsible for feeding and selling the livestock to earn commissions. After the Daoguang era, the horse trade moved to the suburbs outside Deshengmen, and most of the businesses in Madian changed into sheep shops, keeping only a few horse shops. Since it formed in the Qing Dynasty, Madian was called 'Madian' (Horse Shop). It wasn't until the early Republic of China, when place names were made to sound more elegant, that it was changed to 'Madian' (Horse Station), a name that is still used today.
The inscriptions inside Madian Mosque also record the situation of the Hui Muslims in Madian: Madian is located inside the rammed earth walls of the Yuan capital, outside the brick walls of the Ming and Qing Beijing, right on the ancient and modern main road leading north from the capital, connecting to the bustling city in the south and the vast plains stretching for hundreds of miles in the north. Along the Changping Road, there are endless trees. Traveling to Nankou, the Yan Mountains rise one after another, blocking the vast grazing lands of the Bashang plateau. The weather outside the Great Wall is bitterly cold, making it hard to raise sheep. The Hui Muslims of Madian did not avoid the hard work, braving the elements to bring them back, raising and grazing the wild animals until they survived and grew stronger. They earned a meager income, which was their livelihood. This was the sheep trade.
Madian Mosque is located on a terrace on the west side of the ancient road. It was first built during the Kangxi era. In 1850 (the 30th year of the Daoguang reign), it was rebuilt with funds raised by fourteen sheep and horse shops in Madian. It was rebuilt again during the Republic of China and is quite large in scale. In 1930, Ding Ziyu, the principal of Madian Guangyu Primary School, published 'An Investigation of the Madian Mosque Outside Deshengmen, Beiping' in 'Zhengdao' magazine. The article mentioned that more than 300 people attended the Taraweeh prayers at Madian Mosque during Ramadan, 500 to 600 people fasted, and one-third of them fasted for the entire month. According to the memories of the elders in Madian, until the early days after liberation, whenever Ramadan ended and the new moon appeared, people on the front and back streets of Madian would shout, 'The fast is broken!' The fast is broken! ''
The international students who come to Madian Mosque for iftar include friends (dosti) from India and Pakistan, and they are friends with each other.
Fried dough (youxiang) at the mosque.
Stir-fried dough bits (chaogeda) made at the mosque.
Eating steamed buns (baozi) at Madian Mosque, the carrot and fennel fillings are very filling!
I ate the sweet rice balls (yuanxiao) from Yaofengcheng, a Shandong-style restaurant at the mosque gate, for several days during my fast.
Stir-fried dishes at Madian Mosque; international students from nearby countries all love the food at Madian.
Fried tofu (zhadoufu).
Stir-stir-fried meat with oyster mushrooms (pinggu chaorou).
Beef stewed with Chinese cabbage and vermicelli (baicai fentiao dun niurou).
Stir-fried lamb with scallions (congbao yangrou).
Stir-stir-fried meat with celery (qincai chaorou).
Stir-fried potato slices (chao tudoupian).
Braised winter melon with shiitake mushrooms (donggua shao donggu).
Exhibits about the local Muslim community in Haidian at the Madian Mosque gallery.
Hand-pulled noodles (shouganmian) with tomato sauce and eggplant sauce; our international friends all love Beijing hand-pulled noodles, haha.
After eating, I bought food for my fast at Yaofengcheng by the gate, steamed buns (mantou) with spiced beef (jiang niurou); they give out fried dough (youxiang) during Eid al-Fitr.
Nanxiapo Mosque.
As an important hub for water transport, there were historically several mosques and neighborhoods outside Chaoyang Gate, such as Nanzhong Street, Nanxiapo, and Shegutang, but only the Nanxiapo neighborhood remains today. According to the elders, Nanxiapo Mosque dates back to the late Ming and early Qing dynasties. At that time, a shed builder used fir poles and reed mats to build a large shed at Nanxiapo, and an imam named Hu Zhonghe led the local Hui Muslims in prayer there; this was the earliest Nanxiapo Mosque. In the early years of the Kangxi reign of the Qing Dynasty, a Hui Muslim surnamed Ma who sold bows and arrows inside Chaoyang Gate heard about the situation at Nanxiapo. He had just received a payment for bows and arrows that had been owed by some Mongols, so he donated the money to formally build the Nanxiapo Mosque.
Most of the leaders of Nanxiapo Mosque were descendants of the first leader, Hu Zhonghe. Hu Zhonghe's 12th-generation descendant, Hu Degui, was born in 1883 (the ninth year of the Guangxu reign). Because his parents died early, 15-year-old Hu Zichen inherited his father's business in 1898 (the 24th year of the Guangxu reign) and became the second leader (haitui bu) of Nanxiapo Mosque, known as Master Hu the Second. At that time, the imam of Nanxiapo Mosque was Hu Wenzhi, and the third master was Ma Shikuan, known as Master Ma the Third.
In 1900, when Empress Dowager Cixi fled west, bandits were everywhere, and many merchants on Chaowai Street were robbed. Seventeen-year-old Imam Hu Zichen organized a local militia in Nanxiapo. Young Hui Muslims joined eagerly. Some were wrestlers, some were martial artists, some were cart drivers, and the wealthy ones even bought muskets. Every night, everyone gathered at the gate of the Nanxiapo mosque to take turns patrolling the streets and keeping watch, and they finally made it through the crisis.
On February 15, 1928, after the martyr Ma Jun died, his body (maiti) was washed at the Nanxiapo mosque by Imam Hu Wenzhi and Imam Hu Zichen. Then, the village elders and the community (dost) donated burial shroud cloth (kafan), and he was buried in the northwest corner of Ritan.
In 1947, the Nationalist army was rounding up young men for conscription near the South Barracks outside Chaoyang Gate. The young Hui Muslims of Nanxiapo were terrified, so with the help of the imam and the elders, they climbed wooden ladders onto the roof of the main hall of the Nanxiapo mosque. After they were hidden, the imam and the elders immediately hid the ladders. When the Nationalist troops came to the mosque to grab people, the imam persuaded them to leave. Everyone lay on the roof for the whole day and finally escaped the danger.
The second Friday (Jumu'ah) of Ramadan is the day Beijing mosques hold charity events for the holy month.
The Nanxiapo mosque has the most abundant selection of pastries for breaking the fast (iftar).
Haji Li treated everyone to stewed meat, with both beef and lamb available. The iftar at Nanxiapo was held at the nearby Hongqingxuan restaurant with eighteen dishes. Over a hundred people attended, including many young people, and it was a very blessed occasion.
Fayuan Mosque.
Fayuan Mosque is also called Dewai Guanxiang Mosque. It was originally located at the north slope of Xiaochangkou outside Deshengmen. It was relocated and expanded during the Kangxi reign. During the Republic of China era, the main hall was expanded again, featuring four interlocking roofs and a four-cornered pavilion roof.
Fayuan Mosque built a new dining hall, and so many people come to break their fast every day that there are often not enough seats. The iftar meal includes meat, vegetables, shrimp, fruit, pastries, and fried dough cakes (youxiang).
The meat sauce noodles (zhajiangmian) served for iftar at Fayuan Mosque come with seven vegetable toppings: shredded carrots, shredded cucumber, shredded cabbage, shredded radish (xinlimei), diced celery, green garlic, and bean sprouts. It is very hearty! Every Ramadan, I look forward to this bowl of noodles at the mosque.
Silk Road Yilan in Niujie donated small fried dough cakes (youxiang), and Youyishun on Huangsi Street donated boxed meals of kung pao chicken and stir-fried egg with vinegar (culiu muxu). Every Ramadan, many restaurants donate iftar meals to the mosque, which is a very good deed (nietie).
Youyishun is a restaurant founded in 1948 by Ding Deshan, the founder of Donglaishun. There is a saying: 'Donglai goes west and Youyishun follows, north and south, there are only these two.' The original location of Youyishun was at the Xidan intersection. It combined the quick-frying, roasting, and hot-pot styles of Donglaishun with the delicate stir-fries of Xilaishun, bringing the strengths of both together into its own unique style. In the 1950s, Youyishun opened a branch in the Xidan shopping center. Business was booming, and it became an important place for hosting foreign guests. When U. S. President Nixon visited China in 1972, he dined at the restaurant. After Chang'an Avenue was renovated in 1999, Youyishun moved to its current location on Huangsi Street, specializing in traditional famous dishes like stir-fried egg with vinegar (culiu muxu), honey-glazed lamb (tashimi), and deep-fried lamb tails.
Dongzhimenwai Mosque.
Dongzhimenwai Mosque was originally called Erlizhuang Mosque. It was first built in the Yuan Dynasty and renovated during the Kangxi reign of the Qing Dynasty. In the late 1980s, Shougang and a Danish company built international apartments in Erlizhuang, so the mosque was moved one kilometer northwest and rebuilt. It was finished in 1991 and reopened in 1993.
I broke my fast at the mosque outside Dongzhimen. The snacks available after the prayer included pea flour cake (wandouhuang), candied yam rolls (tangjuanguo), and steamed rice cakes (aiwowo), all made by the mosque. After the prayer, there was a mix of meat and vegetable dishes, including stir-stir-fried meat with wood ear mushrooms and eggs (mushurou), yam with wood ear mushrooms, braised eggplant, braised fish chunks, and roast chicken. They also boiled sweet rice balls (yuanxiao) for the occasion. Although there are not many people at the mosque outside Dongzhimen every year, the atmosphere during Ramadan is very good.
Silk Road Legend (Silu Chuanqi) served baked buns (kaobaozi) with millet porridge and various cold dishes. These baked buns were actually invented by Gansu friends (dost), so they are different from Uyghur baked buns, but they still taste good.
At the naan shop by the gate of the mosque outside Dongzhimen, I finished my fast-breaking meal at 6:40, just as the naan and baked buns were coming out of the oven. The skin of the baked bun is very thin but a bit chewy, and there is plenty of meat inside, making it perfect for the pre-dawn meal (suhoor) the next day.
Zhengyuan Mosque
The predecessor of Zhengyuan Mosque was the Beigouyan Mosque inside Xizhimen, which was first built during the Daoguang era. After 1946, Beigouyan was renamed Zhaodengyu Road, so it was also called Zhaodengyu Road Mosque. In 1997, it was demolished and rebuilt at its current location, and renamed Zhengyuan Mosque.
Zhengyuan Mosque is very low-key, and this year was my first time going there to break my fast. I ate steamed buns (baozi) and sesame flatbread (shaobing) with lamb offal soup (yangza) at the mosque, and also had fried toon sprouts and fried meatballs. The mosque said not to post photos of the fast-breaking meal, so I will not post them here.
Sudanese Embassy
For the past few years, I have gone to the Sudanese Embassy every Ramadan to pray Taraweeh. The atmosphere is great, and the whole family can go together.
During the last ten days, it starts at 8:30 and lasts for over an hour. Taraweeh consists of eight rak'ahs, with a sermon (wa'z) after every four. The Witr dua is two rak'ahs followed by one, and during the third rak'ah, we raise our hands for a long dua. In the embassy courtyard, you can brew your own mint black tea and coffee, and after the prayer, there were chickpeas distributed by friends (dost).
Sudan follows the Maliki school of thought, which most of North and West Africa belongs to, and it has many differences from the Hanafi school in China. I think it is a rare opportunity to come here every year to experience a different religious cultural atmosphere.
In the 15th and 16th centuries, Sufi sages began to spread the faith along the upper Nile River toward the Sudan region. In the early 16th century, the Funj Sultanate ruling Sudan had nominally converted to the faith, but it still kept traditions of witchcraft and ritual sacrifice. The Funj Sultanate changed dynasties in 1718, which started a push for a more orthodox faith and the beginning of Arabization. By the 19th century, Sudan had become a region that followed orthodox Sunni Islam and began using Arabic as its common language. Today, the vast majority of Sudanese people follow the Maliki school of Sunni Islam and are deeply influenced by Sufism.
Houheyan Mosque
On the last night of Ramadan, I broke my fast at Houheyan Mosque. There were three tables of elderly people in the mosque, which is hard to find deep in the alleyways. We had steamed buns (baozi), millet porridge (xiaomizhou), sesame flatbread (shaobing), soy sauce fried rice (jiangyouchaofan), and fried dough (youxiang), and everyone also received a bag of Tongxian crispy fried snacks (gezhihe).
Houheyan Mosque sits right on the south bank of the moat. During the Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China era, many transport workers and restaurant owners lived nearby. In 1944, Yang Yuting of the 'Heyan Yang family' and his sons Yang Hongda and Yang Honglai donated their own ice cellar. Then, village elders Yang Zengbin and Yang Zengsen led the fundraising efforts. They received active support from Hui Muslims in Beijing and Dachang, including Peking Opera master Ma Lianliang and Wan Qirui, the owner of the Kaorouwan restaurant, and built the mosque in 1948. Houheyan Mosque originally covered a large area. In the 1970s, part of the land was taken to fill in the moat for the subway, and the current building was rebuilt in 2012.
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Summary: This Beijing Ramadan 2026 diary follows iftar meals and mosque visits at Madian, Fayuan, Zhengyuan, Nanxiaopo, Dongwai, Houheyan, and the Sudan Embassy, with food and community details kept in full.
I returned to Beijing from Sichuan during the second week of Ramadan. This year, I had to take my son to kindergarten by electric scooter every morning, so I couldn't break my fast at Balizhuang like I did last year (see 'A Wonderful Look Back at Ramadan 2025 in Beijing Balizhuang'). Instead, I mostly went to the mosques near my office and home. I visited seven in total: Madian Mosque, Fayuan Mosque, Zhengyuan Mosque, Nanxiaopo Mosque, Dongwai Mosque, Houheyuan Mosque, and the Sudan Embassy. I will share them with you below.
Madian Mosque
Madian Mosque is the closest mosque to my office, and it is the one I visited the most. The iftar at Madian Mosque is quite generous. Before breaking the fast, there is a plate of fruit and a plate of pastries. After breaking the fast, there are noodles, stir-fried dishes, stir-fried dough bits (chaogeda), steamed buns (baozi), and more. Usually, there are two tables of international students, one table of friends (dosti) from Northwest China, one table of female elders, and one table of male elders at iftar. I met many old friends and made many new ones at Madian Mosque this year, which was very blessed. We set up over a dozen tables in the courtyard for the Night of Power (Laylat al-Qadr), which I will write about in my next post.
Madian is located on the Jingbei Avenue outside Deshengmen in Beijing. After the Ming Dynasty overthrew the Yuan Dynasty, they moved the northern wall of the capital city south. However, the main road from Beijing through Deshengmen to outside the Great Wall still passed through the Jiande Gate gap of the Yuan capital. The trade of horses, cattle, and sheep coming from the north gradually formed a market inside the Jiande Gate gap, attracting a large number of Hui Muslims to settle there. It was said that the number of Hui Muslims there was no less than at Niujie. Since the Qing Dynasty, hundreds of thousands of cattle, sheep, and horses entered Beijing from Mongolia via Zhangjiakou every year. Hui Muslims opened many horse shops and sheep shops in Madian, responsible for feeding and selling the livestock to earn commissions. After the Daoguang era, the horse trade moved to the suburbs outside Deshengmen, and most of the businesses in Madian changed into sheep shops, keeping only a few horse shops. Since it formed in the Qing Dynasty, Madian was called 'Madian' (Horse Shop). It wasn't until the early Republic of China, when place names were made to sound more elegant, that it was changed to 'Madian' (Horse Station), a name that is still used today.
The inscriptions inside Madian Mosque also record the situation of the Hui Muslims in Madian: Madian is located inside the rammed earth walls of the Yuan capital, outside the brick walls of the Ming and Qing Beijing, right on the ancient and modern main road leading north from the capital, connecting to the bustling city in the south and the vast plains stretching for hundreds of miles in the north. Along the Changping Road, there are endless trees. Traveling to Nankou, the Yan Mountains rise one after another, blocking the vast grazing lands of the Bashang plateau. The weather outside the Great Wall is bitterly cold, making it hard to raise sheep. The Hui Muslims of Madian did not avoid the hard work, braving the elements to bring them back, raising and grazing the wild animals until they survived and grew stronger. They earned a meager income, which was their livelihood. This was the sheep trade.
Madian Mosque is located on a terrace on the west side of the ancient road. It was first built during the Kangxi era. In 1850 (the 30th year of the Daoguang reign), it was rebuilt with funds raised by fourteen sheep and horse shops in Madian. It was rebuilt again during the Republic of China and is quite large in scale. In 1930, Ding Ziyu, the principal of Madian Guangyu Primary School, published 'An Investigation of the Madian Mosque Outside Deshengmen, Beiping' in 'Zhengdao' magazine. The article mentioned that more than 300 people attended the Taraweeh prayers at Madian Mosque during Ramadan, 500 to 600 people fasted, and one-third of them fasted for the entire month. According to the memories of the elders in Madian, until the early days after liberation, whenever Ramadan ended and the new moon appeared, people on the front and back streets of Madian would shout, 'The fast is broken!' The fast is broken! ''
The international students who come to Madian Mosque for iftar include friends (dosti) from India and Pakistan, and they are friends with each other.
Fried dough (youxiang) at the mosque.
Stir-fried dough bits (chaogeda) made at the mosque.
Eating steamed buns (baozi) at Madian Mosque, the carrot and fennel fillings are very filling!
I ate the sweet rice balls (yuanxiao) from Yaofengcheng, a Shandong-style restaurant at the mosque gate, for several days during my fast.
Stir-fried dishes at Madian Mosque; international students from nearby countries all love the food at Madian.
Fried tofu (zhadoufu).
Stir-stir-fried meat with oyster mushrooms (pinggu chaorou).
Beef stewed with Chinese cabbage and vermicelli (baicai fentiao dun niurou).
Stir-fried lamb with scallions (congbao yangrou).
Stir-stir-fried meat with celery (qincai chaorou).
Stir-fried potato slices (chao tudoupian).
Braised winter melon with shiitake mushrooms (donggua shao donggu).
Exhibits about the local Muslim community in Haidian at the Madian Mosque gallery.
Hand-pulled noodles (shouganmian) with tomato sauce and eggplant sauce; our international friends all love Beijing hand-pulled noodles, haha.
After eating, I bought food for my fast at Yaofengcheng by the gate, steamed buns (mantou) with spiced beef (jiang niurou); they give out fried dough (youxiang) during Eid al-Fitr.
Nanxiapo Mosque.
As an important hub for water transport, there were historically several mosques and neighborhoods outside Chaoyang Gate, such as Nanzhong Street, Nanxiapo, and Shegutang, but only the Nanxiapo neighborhood remains today. According to the elders, Nanxiapo Mosque dates back to the late Ming and early Qing dynasties. At that time, a shed builder used fir poles and reed mats to build a large shed at Nanxiapo, and an imam named Hu Zhonghe led the local Hui Muslims in prayer there; this was the earliest Nanxiapo Mosque. In the early years of the Kangxi reign of the Qing Dynasty, a Hui Muslim surnamed Ma who sold bows and arrows inside Chaoyang Gate heard about the situation at Nanxiapo. He had just received a payment for bows and arrows that had been owed by some Mongols, so he donated the money to formally build the Nanxiapo Mosque.
Most of the leaders of Nanxiapo Mosque were descendants of the first leader, Hu Zhonghe. Hu Zhonghe's 12th-generation descendant, Hu Degui, was born in 1883 (the ninth year of the Guangxu reign). Because his parents died early, 15-year-old Hu Zichen inherited his father's business in 1898 (the 24th year of the Guangxu reign) and became the second leader (haitui bu) of Nanxiapo Mosque, known as Master Hu the Second. At that time, the imam of Nanxiapo Mosque was Hu Wenzhi, and the third master was Ma Shikuan, known as Master Ma the Third.
In 1900, when Empress Dowager Cixi fled west, bandits were everywhere, and many merchants on Chaowai Street were robbed. Seventeen-year-old Imam Hu Zichen organized a local militia in Nanxiapo. Young Hui Muslims joined eagerly. Some were wrestlers, some were martial artists, some were cart drivers, and the wealthy ones even bought muskets. Every night, everyone gathered at the gate of the Nanxiapo mosque to take turns patrolling the streets and keeping watch, and they finally made it through the crisis.
On February 15, 1928, after the martyr Ma Jun died, his body (maiti) was washed at the Nanxiapo mosque by Imam Hu Wenzhi and Imam Hu Zichen. Then, the village elders and the community (dost) donated burial shroud cloth (kafan), and he was buried in the northwest corner of Ritan.
In 1947, the Nationalist army was rounding up young men for conscription near the South Barracks outside Chaoyang Gate. The young Hui Muslims of Nanxiapo were terrified, so with the help of the imam and the elders, they climbed wooden ladders onto the roof of the main hall of the Nanxiapo mosque. After they were hidden, the imam and the elders immediately hid the ladders. When the Nationalist troops came to the mosque to grab people, the imam persuaded them to leave. Everyone lay on the roof for the whole day and finally escaped the danger.
The second Friday (Jumu'ah) of Ramadan is the day Beijing mosques hold charity events for the holy month.
The Nanxiapo mosque has the most abundant selection of pastries for breaking the fast (iftar).
Haji Li treated everyone to stewed meat, with both beef and lamb available. The iftar at Nanxiapo was held at the nearby Hongqingxuan restaurant with eighteen dishes. Over a hundred people attended, including many young people, and it was a very blessed occasion.
Fayuan Mosque.
Fayuan Mosque is also called Dewai Guanxiang Mosque. It was originally located at the north slope of Xiaochangkou outside Deshengmen. It was relocated and expanded during the Kangxi reign. During the Republic of China era, the main hall was expanded again, featuring four interlocking roofs and a four-cornered pavilion roof.
Fayuan Mosque built a new dining hall, and so many people come to break their fast every day that there are often not enough seats. The iftar meal includes meat, vegetables, shrimp, fruit, pastries, and fried dough cakes (youxiang).
The meat sauce noodles (zhajiangmian) served for iftar at Fayuan Mosque come with seven vegetable toppings: shredded carrots, shredded cucumber, shredded cabbage, shredded radish (xinlimei), diced celery, green garlic, and bean sprouts. It is very hearty! Every Ramadan, I look forward to this bowl of noodles at the mosque.
Silk Road Yilan in Niujie donated small fried dough cakes (youxiang), and Youyishun on Huangsi Street donated boxed meals of kung pao chicken and stir-fried egg with vinegar (culiu muxu). Every Ramadan, many restaurants donate iftar meals to the mosque, which is a very good deed (nietie).
Youyishun is a restaurant founded in 1948 by Ding Deshan, the founder of Donglaishun. There is a saying: 'Donglai goes west and Youyishun follows, north and south, there are only these two.' The original location of Youyishun was at the Xidan intersection. It combined the quick-frying, roasting, and hot-pot styles of Donglaishun with the delicate stir-fries of Xilaishun, bringing the strengths of both together into its own unique style. In the 1950s, Youyishun opened a branch in the Xidan shopping center. Business was booming, and it became an important place for hosting foreign guests. When U. S. President Nixon visited China in 1972, he dined at the restaurant. After Chang'an Avenue was renovated in 1999, Youyishun moved to its current location on Huangsi Street, specializing in traditional famous dishes like stir-fried egg with vinegar (culiu muxu), honey-glazed lamb (tashimi), and deep-fried lamb tails.
Dongzhimenwai Mosque.
Dongzhimenwai Mosque was originally called Erlizhuang Mosque. It was first built in the Yuan Dynasty and renovated during the Kangxi reign of the Qing Dynasty. In the late 1980s, Shougang and a Danish company built international apartments in Erlizhuang, so the mosque was moved one kilometer northwest and rebuilt. It was finished in 1991 and reopened in 1993.
I broke my fast at the mosque outside Dongzhimen. The snacks available after the prayer included pea flour cake (wandouhuang), candied yam rolls (tangjuanguo), and steamed rice cakes (aiwowo), all made by the mosque. After the prayer, there was a mix of meat and vegetable dishes, including stir-stir-fried meat with wood ear mushrooms and eggs (mushurou), yam with wood ear mushrooms, braised eggplant, braised fish chunks, and roast chicken. They also boiled sweet rice balls (yuanxiao) for the occasion. Although there are not many people at the mosque outside Dongzhimen every year, the atmosphere during Ramadan is very good.
Silk Road Legend (Silu Chuanqi) served baked buns (kaobaozi) with millet porridge and various cold dishes. These baked buns were actually invented by Gansu friends (dost), so they are different from Uyghur baked buns, but they still taste good.
At the naan shop by the gate of the mosque outside Dongzhimen, I finished my fast-breaking meal at 6:40, just as the naan and baked buns were coming out of the oven. The skin of the baked bun is very thin but a bit chewy, and there is plenty of meat inside, making it perfect for the pre-dawn meal (suhoor) the next day.
Zhengyuan Mosque
The predecessor of Zhengyuan Mosque was the Beigouyan Mosque inside Xizhimen, which was first built during the Daoguang era. After 1946, Beigouyan was renamed Zhaodengyu Road, so it was also called Zhaodengyu Road Mosque. In 1997, it was demolished and rebuilt at its current location, and renamed Zhengyuan Mosque.
Zhengyuan Mosque is very low-key, and this year was my first time going there to break my fast. I ate steamed buns (baozi) and sesame flatbread (shaobing) with lamb offal soup (yangza) at the mosque, and also had fried toon sprouts and fried meatballs. The mosque said not to post photos of the fast-breaking meal, so I will not post them here.
Sudanese Embassy
For the past few years, I have gone to the Sudanese Embassy every Ramadan to pray Taraweeh. The atmosphere is great, and the whole family can go together.
During the last ten days, it starts at 8:30 and lasts for over an hour. Taraweeh consists of eight rak'ahs, with a sermon (wa'z) after every four. The Witr dua is two rak'ahs followed by one, and during the third rak'ah, we raise our hands for a long dua. In the embassy courtyard, you can brew your own mint black tea and coffee, and after the prayer, there were chickpeas distributed by friends (dost).
Sudan follows the Maliki school of thought, which most of North and West Africa belongs to, and it has many differences from the Hanafi school in China. I think it is a rare opportunity to come here every year to experience a different religious cultural atmosphere.
In the 15th and 16th centuries, Sufi sages began to spread the faith along the upper Nile River toward the Sudan region. In the early 16th century, the Funj Sultanate ruling Sudan had nominally converted to the faith, but it still kept traditions of witchcraft and ritual sacrifice. The Funj Sultanate changed dynasties in 1718, which started a push for a more orthodox faith and the beginning of Arabization. By the 19th century, Sudan had become a region that followed orthodox Sunni Islam and began using Arabic as its common language. Today, the vast majority of Sudanese people follow the Maliki school of Sunni Islam and are deeply influenced by Sufism.
Houheyan Mosque
On the last night of Ramadan, I broke my fast at Houheyan Mosque. There were three tables of elderly people in the mosque, which is hard to find deep in the alleyways. We had steamed buns (baozi), millet porridge (xiaomizhou), sesame flatbread (shaobing), soy sauce fried rice (jiangyouchaofan), and fried dough (youxiang), and everyone also received a bag of Tongxian crispy fried snacks (gezhihe).
Houheyan Mosque sits right on the south bank of the moat. During the Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China era, many transport workers and restaurant owners lived nearby. In 1944, Yang Yuting of the 'Heyan Yang family' and his sons Yang Hongda and Yang Honglai donated their own ice cellar. Then, village elders Yang Zengbin and Yang Zengsen led the fundraising efforts. They received active support from Hui Muslims in Beijing and Dachang, including Peking Opera master Ma Lianliang and Wan Qirui, the owner of the Kaorouwan restaurant, and built the mosque in 1948. Houheyan Mosque originally covered a large area. In the 1970s, part of the land was taken to fill in the moat for the subway, and the current building was rebuilt in 2012.
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Hidden Mosques in Mianyang Yanting: Sichuan Hui Muslim Villages and Old Mosque History
Reposted from the web
Summary: This Yanting County travelogue explores old mosques, Hui Muslim villages, family histories, and mountain roads around Mianyang during a Spring Festival drive through Sichuan.
On February 20, I drove for one hour and 20 minutes from Nanchong at noon to reach Dajiaping Mosque in Yanting County, Mianyang City, for Jumu'ah prayer. The mosque was very crowded, and everyone there was a local Hui Muslim.
Yanting is the county with the most Hui Muslims in Mianyang, with ten major surnames: Jiang, Jin, Mu, Da, Ma, Yang, Wu, Ha, Ran, and Sa. The ancestor of the Da surname was a man from the Western Regions during the Yuan Dynasty named Wubalesha. Research shows he belonged to the Kipchak Yuliboli tribe and served as a Darughachi in Zhenjiang Road before passing away in Zhenjiang. His sixth-generation descendant, Da Shanyu, moved from Zhenjiang to Liuhe, Nanjing, in the early Ming Dynasty to serve as a county assistant. He settled in Liuhe, making this the oldest Western Regions Hui Muslim family in Liuhe, Nanjing. In 1644 (the first year of the Shunzhi reign), Da Chengzong was ordered to move from Liuhe to Sichuan. He settled at the foot of Jianzi Mountain in Fenghe, Yanting, which established the Da surname Hui Muslim community in Yanting.
Dajiaping Mosque was originally located on a small hill behind the current kiln hall and was quite small. It was later moved to its current location below the hill. In 1812 (the 17th year of the Jiaqing reign), it was rebuilt into the current courtyard style with donations from Sichuan Baoning Prefecture military officials Da Tengchao, Da Tengrui, Da Tianheng, and Da Guankui. It was renovated in 1908 (the 34th year of the Guangxu reign), and the main gate and side schools were expanded in 1928.
Dajiaping Mosque features the traditional Sichuan courtyard structure known as "four waters flowing into the hall" (si shui dao tang), with elegant, unique bracket sets and flying eaves. There is a path platform in the courtyard's central patio and gardens on both sides.
Dajiaping Mosque houses 30 volumes of scriptures hand-copied by Jin Wanx in the ninth year of the Guangxu reign.
The mosque also preserves three plaques from the Qing Dynasty and two from the Republic of China era:
The "Jiao Long Zhen Yi" plaque from the fourth year of the Daoguang reign: Respectfully erected by Da Tianheng, a specially appointed military official of the Jianzhou garrison in Guangyuan, Sichuan, who was promoted to the rank of thousand-man commander (qian zong) and received honors five times.
Da Tianheng passed the military examination in 1801 (the sixth year of the Jiaqing reign) and was immediately appointed as a thousand-man commander (qian zong) in the Chuanbei Town garrison. He was promoted several times, eventually reaching the rank of regional commander (zong bing) of Chuanbei Town, stationed in Baoning Prefecture, Sichuan. Locals respectfully called him "Commander-in-Chief" (zong zhen du du). In 1854 (the fourth year of the Xianfeng reign), the imperial court ordered him to lead troops to suppress the Taiping Rebellion. Because he did not act immediately, he was falsely accused of "colluding with the enemy and rebelling." The Xianfeng Emperor recalled him to Beijing and had him beheaded in public.
The "Yu Yin Guang Zong" plaque from the ninth year of the Tongzhi reign: Erected by his descendants Da Yuguan, Yu Chun, and Yu Sheng, along with their sons Fenggang, Fengge, and Fengzhu. The plaque honors their ancestor, a military official of the Tongchuan garrison in Chuanbei, Sichuan, who held a fifth-rank blue feather and served as a garrison commander (ba zong) in Tibet and an acting official in Sanchuan County.
The "Du Yi Zhu Zai" plaque from the 21st year of the Guangxu reign: Respectfully inscribed by Bao Daosheng, a specially appointed inspector of Fucun Station in Nanbu County, Baoning Prefecture.
The Arabic plaque from the second year of the Republic of China reading "I created the jinn and mankind only to worship Me": Erected by local imam Ma Huaifang, Da Pengju, Ran Mingli, Ran Minglun, Ran Mingyao, Ha Mayu, Ha Huaide, Huang Anju, Da Yugao, Da Yuliang, Da Yude, Da Yulin, Da Yulong, Da Fengwu, Da Fengzhi, Da Fengwen, Da Fengwu, Da Fengtai, Da Fengyou, Da Fengyuan, Da Fenghao, Da Fengge, Da Fengdou, Da Fengkui, Da Fengxian, Da Fengyi, Da Pengshun, Da Pengqian, Da Penglin, Da Pengshan, Da Pengyun, Da Fengchun, Da Yugang, and Da Yuyin.
Ma Huaifang, also known as Ma Nanxuan, was originally from Lanzhou, Gansu. He fled to Yanting during the early years of the Republic of China and settled there, serving successively as the imam of Dajiaping Mosque and the mosque in Yanting county town. He was a master of martial arts, possessed extraordinary strength, stood up against evil, and was known for helping those in need, earning him high prestige. In 1913, when the Sichuan Army's Zhong Tidao unit was forcibly conscripting men at Lingshan Market, Imam Ma protected the people by driving away an entire squad of soldiers with his bare hands. In 1916, Imam Ma again drove away chaotic soldiers who were forcibly conscripting men at Daxing Market. From 1921 to 1934, Imam Ma opened the "Shou'an Martial Arts Academy" at the Yanting county town mosque, training hundreds of martial arts students. In 1933 and 1934, Imam Ma participated in martial arts competitions in Langzhong and Santai counties, winning silver medals both times. His martial arts style gradually formed into one that was "short, powerful, full of energy, quick to strike, simple, clear, versatile, and focused on winning through strength." In 1932, Imam Ma opened a "Hui Language School" (huiwen xuexiao), training a group of excellent students who were skilled in both literature and martial arts.
The 1943 plaque titled 'Leader of the Community': We honor Imam (imam) Pengju, courtesy name Yuncheng. A man of virtue, he was a true scholar, a fifth-rank official, and the son of Master Tong. He was upright and righteous, setting a standard for Hui Muslims. He served as imam, managed the Yannan district, and led the Progressive Association. Elected by the people as director-general, he was firm and honest, working hard to remove corruption and starting schools to teach both Arabic and Chinese. The old mosque was renovated with Chinese-style architecture. Its scale is grand, reflecting the prosperity of the community. His virtue will be remembered by descendants forever. We carve this plaque to honor the great Master Da, whose reputation will last for generations. Respectfully dedicated by the family members.
Imam Da Pengju studied religious texts in Chengdu from 1885 to 1891. He became the imam of Dajiaping Mosque in 1912 and taught himself veterinary medicine. In 1914, Imam Da founded an Arabic-Chinese bilingual school in Dajiaping. After the Yanting County Hui Progressive Association was established in 1925, he served as its first president. He also served as president of the Yanting Islamic Association after its founding in 1942. After 1930, Imam Da served as the imam of the Fuyi County Mosque, and after 1951, he served as the imam of the Yanting County Mosque. He was an upright man who helped those in need. He also worked as a veterinarian with excellent skills, saving many sick cattle and earning the respect of everyone.
There are many inscriptions on the wooden structures inside the courtyard:
Craftsmen Li Changshou and Li Changkai from Anle Township, Tongchuan Prefecture, Yanting County, are masters of their art. The family of Imam Ma Hong and others rebuilt this, respectfully inscribed by the prominent members.
Craftsmen Li Jiong, Zhang Shifu, and Li Jianming from Anle Township, Tongchuan Prefecture, Yanting County, are masters of their art. Da Tianqu, a Confucian scholar from Yanting County, Tongchuan Prefecture, Sichuan, respectfully washed his hands and wrote this, inscribed by the successful candidates.
Donors: Da Tianhui, Tianwei, Tianci, Tianyou, Tianchang, Tianzi, Tianxiang, Tianli, and Tianbang. Founding donors: Da Tianjianzhao, Tianfu, Tiande, Tianxing, Tianshun, Tianzhen, Tiancai, and Tianming.
Arabic calligraphy in the main hall of Dajiaping Mosque, and the view looking down from the small hill behind the mosque.
The countryside around Dajiaping is peaceful and quiet. A clear pond reflects the sky, and fields spread out between the hills. It is quiet all around, with only the crisp chirping of birds and the relaxed sounds of cattle and sheep, creating a moving pastoral scene.
Returning from Dajiaping Mosque to Yanting County, I broke my fast at the North Street Mosque. In the evening, hundreds of people came to the mosque to break their fast. Men, women, old, and young gathered together, showing the prosperity of the faith in Yanting. We had radish beef stew, served with crispy flatbread (subing) and rice. Although it was simple, the atmosphere was exceptionally warm and harmonious.
Yanting County Mosque was first built in 1738 (the third year of the Qianlong reign). It was originally located on Xinxie Street next to the Sanbu Liangdong Bridge. In 1796 (the first year of the Jiaqing reign), it moved to its current location at the city gate on Shangbei Street. It was expanded in 1898 and 1947, and rebuilt into its current form in 2006.
There are many Hui Muslim restaurants near the North Street Mosque in Yanting, especially on Tuanjie Road, which is a 'Hui Muslim food street'. In northern Sichuan, besides Songpan, Yanting is the most convenient place to eat. Even Langzhong does not have as many options as Yanting. Opposite the mosque gate is a shop called 'Benwei Banlu', which sells braised beef, braised chicken feet, and braised duck. The 'Jin's Braised Duck' next door is also very popular. Walking a little further, you reach Tuanjie Road. 'Dehua Kaiyuan Rice Noodles' at the intersection has been open for thirty years. They specialize in bamboo shoot rice noodles, meatball rice noodles, chicken soup rice noodles, and pea and kelp rice noodles. Many people eat there, and they are open early in the morning. Walking into Tuanjie Road, you find many halal restaurants with names like Huixiang Renjia, Huihuixiang, Huiweiju, and Xiaohuimin. They specialize in Sichuan-style braised dishes, stews, stir-fries, steamed beef with rice flour (fenzheng niurou), and beef and mutton hot pots.
After finishing the Taraweeh prayers, I stopped by Muji Noodle Shop on Tuanjie Road in Yanting for a bowl of spicy hot pot (maocai) to get some vegetables.
Near the North Street Mosque in Yanting, you can find restaurants owned by families named Jin, Mu, and Ma. The Jin family seems especially common, with places like Jin Family All-Beef and Mutton Soup House (Jin Jia Quan Niuyang Tangguan), Jincuiyuan Restaurant, and Little Jin Beef (Xiao Jin Niu). Among the Hui Muslims in Yanting, the main family names are Jiang, Mu, Da, Jin, Ma, and Yang, based on when they first arrived in Sichuan. The Jiang family's ancestral home is Qili Village in Penglai, Shandong. They moved to Sichuan in 1465 (the first year of the Chenghua reign of the Ming Dynasty) when an ancestor became the magistrate of Leshan, and they settled in Yanting after he left office. The Mu family's ancestral home is Mujiaping in Hanzhong, Shaanxi. They moved to Yanting in 1615 (the 43rd year of the Wanli reign). The Da family's ancestral home is Liuhe in Nanjing, Jiangsu. They moved to Yanting in 1644 (the first year of the Shunzhi reign of the Qing Dynasty). The Jin family's ancestral home is Wangjiao Village in Dali, Tongchuan, Shaanxi. They moved to Yanting in 1690 (the 29th year of the Kangxi reign). The Ma family's ancestral home is Weinan, Shaanxi. Their ancestor came to Sichuan during the Revolt of the Three Feudatories, and the family moved to Yanting in 1691 (the 30th year of the Kangxi reign). The Yang family's ancestral home is Shaanxi. They moved to Yanting in 1723 (the first year of the Yongzheng reign).
Breakfast starts after 5:00 a.m. near the North Street Mosque in Yanting, which is perfect for eating suhoor. Breakfast here includes steamed buns (baozi), rice porridge (xifan), rice noodles (mifen), and tea-oil porridge (youtiao). I ordered a bowl of rice noodles and a steamed bun. Yanting rice noodles are quite thin. They have a soft, smooth, and slightly chewy texture. They are quickly blanched in boiling water using a bamboo strainer. After draining the water, they are put into a bowl and topped with beef sauce (niurou saozi). The Hui Muslims' beef sauce is made by stir-frying rapeseed oil mixed with beef fat until fragrant, then adding bean paste (doubanjiang) to create a red oil. The beef is firm, flavorful, tender, and not dry. When you eat it, it is spicy, numbing, and rich with a fresh aroma. It is spicy without being harsh, numbing without being bitter, and fresh without being greasy.
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Summary: This Yanting County travelogue explores old mosques, Hui Muslim villages, family histories, and mountain roads around Mianyang during a Spring Festival drive through Sichuan.
On February 20, I drove for one hour and 20 minutes from Nanchong at noon to reach Dajiaping Mosque in Yanting County, Mianyang City, for Jumu'ah prayer. The mosque was very crowded, and everyone there was a local Hui Muslim.
Yanting is the county with the most Hui Muslims in Mianyang, with ten major surnames: Jiang, Jin, Mu, Da, Ma, Yang, Wu, Ha, Ran, and Sa. The ancestor of the Da surname was a man from the Western Regions during the Yuan Dynasty named Wubalesha. Research shows he belonged to the Kipchak Yuliboli tribe and served as a Darughachi in Zhenjiang Road before passing away in Zhenjiang. His sixth-generation descendant, Da Shanyu, moved from Zhenjiang to Liuhe, Nanjing, in the early Ming Dynasty to serve as a county assistant. He settled in Liuhe, making this the oldest Western Regions Hui Muslim family in Liuhe, Nanjing. In 1644 (the first year of the Shunzhi reign), Da Chengzong was ordered to move from Liuhe to Sichuan. He settled at the foot of Jianzi Mountain in Fenghe, Yanting, which established the Da surname Hui Muslim community in Yanting.
Dajiaping Mosque was originally located on a small hill behind the current kiln hall and was quite small. It was later moved to its current location below the hill. In 1812 (the 17th year of the Jiaqing reign), it was rebuilt into the current courtyard style with donations from Sichuan Baoning Prefecture military officials Da Tengchao, Da Tengrui, Da Tianheng, and Da Guankui. It was renovated in 1908 (the 34th year of the Guangxu reign), and the main gate and side schools were expanded in 1928.
Dajiaping Mosque features the traditional Sichuan courtyard structure known as "four waters flowing into the hall" (si shui dao tang), with elegant, unique bracket sets and flying eaves. There is a path platform in the courtyard's central patio and gardens on both sides.
Dajiaping Mosque houses 30 volumes of scriptures hand-copied by Jin Wanx in the ninth year of the Guangxu reign.
The mosque also preserves three plaques from the Qing Dynasty and two from the Republic of China era:
The "Jiao Long Zhen Yi" plaque from the fourth year of the Daoguang reign: Respectfully erected by Da Tianheng, a specially appointed military official of the Jianzhou garrison in Guangyuan, Sichuan, who was promoted to the rank of thousand-man commander (qian zong) and received honors five times.
Da Tianheng passed the military examination in 1801 (the sixth year of the Jiaqing reign) and was immediately appointed as a thousand-man commander (qian zong) in the Chuanbei Town garrison. He was promoted several times, eventually reaching the rank of regional commander (zong bing) of Chuanbei Town, stationed in Baoning Prefecture, Sichuan. Locals respectfully called him "Commander-in-Chief" (zong zhen du du). In 1854 (the fourth year of the Xianfeng reign), the imperial court ordered him to lead troops to suppress the Taiping Rebellion. Because he did not act immediately, he was falsely accused of "colluding with the enemy and rebelling." The Xianfeng Emperor recalled him to Beijing and had him beheaded in public.
The "Yu Yin Guang Zong" plaque from the ninth year of the Tongzhi reign: Erected by his descendants Da Yuguan, Yu Chun, and Yu Sheng, along with their sons Fenggang, Fengge, and Fengzhu. The plaque honors their ancestor, a military official of the Tongchuan garrison in Chuanbei, Sichuan, who held a fifth-rank blue feather and served as a garrison commander (ba zong) in Tibet and an acting official in Sanchuan County.
The "Du Yi Zhu Zai" plaque from the 21st year of the Guangxu reign: Respectfully inscribed by Bao Daosheng, a specially appointed inspector of Fucun Station in Nanbu County, Baoning Prefecture.
The Arabic plaque from the second year of the Republic of China reading "I created the jinn and mankind only to worship Me": Erected by local imam Ma Huaifang, Da Pengju, Ran Mingli, Ran Minglun, Ran Mingyao, Ha Mayu, Ha Huaide, Huang Anju, Da Yugao, Da Yuliang, Da Yude, Da Yulin, Da Yulong, Da Fengwu, Da Fengzhi, Da Fengwen, Da Fengwu, Da Fengtai, Da Fengyou, Da Fengyuan, Da Fenghao, Da Fengge, Da Fengdou, Da Fengkui, Da Fengxian, Da Fengyi, Da Pengshun, Da Pengqian, Da Penglin, Da Pengshan, Da Pengyun, Da Fengchun, Da Yugang, and Da Yuyin.
Ma Huaifang, also known as Ma Nanxuan, was originally from Lanzhou, Gansu. He fled to Yanting during the early years of the Republic of China and settled there, serving successively as the imam of Dajiaping Mosque and the mosque in Yanting county town. He was a master of martial arts, possessed extraordinary strength, stood up against evil, and was known for helping those in need, earning him high prestige. In 1913, when the Sichuan Army's Zhong Tidao unit was forcibly conscripting men at Lingshan Market, Imam Ma protected the people by driving away an entire squad of soldiers with his bare hands. In 1916, Imam Ma again drove away chaotic soldiers who were forcibly conscripting men at Daxing Market. From 1921 to 1934, Imam Ma opened the "Shou'an Martial Arts Academy" at the Yanting county town mosque, training hundreds of martial arts students. In 1933 and 1934, Imam Ma participated in martial arts competitions in Langzhong and Santai counties, winning silver medals both times. His martial arts style gradually formed into one that was "short, powerful, full of energy, quick to strike, simple, clear, versatile, and focused on winning through strength." In 1932, Imam Ma opened a "Hui Language School" (huiwen xuexiao), training a group of excellent students who were skilled in both literature and martial arts.
The 1943 plaque titled 'Leader of the Community': We honor Imam (imam) Pengju, courtesy name Yuncheng. A man of virtue, he was a true scholar, a fifth-rank official, and the son of Master Tong. He was upright and righteous, setting a standard for Hui Muslims. He served as imam, managed the Yannan district, and led the Progressive Association. Elected by the people as director-general, he was firm and honest, working hard to remove corruption and starting schools to teach both Arabic and Chinese. The old mosque was renovated with Chinese-style architecture. Its scale is grand, reflecting the prosperity of the community. His virtue will be remembered by descendants forever. We carve this plaque to honor the great Master Da, whose reputation will last for generations. Respectfully dedicated by the family members.
Imam Da Pengju studied religious texts in Chengdu from 1885 to 1891. He became the imam of Dajiaping Mosque in 1912 and taught himself veterinary medicine. In 1914, Imam Da founded an Arabic-Chinese bilingual school in Dajiaping. After the Yanting County Hui Progressive Association was established in 1925, he served as its first president. He also served as president of the Yanting Islamic Association after its founding in 1942. After 1930, Imam Da served as the imam of the Fuyi County Mosque, and after 1951, he served as the imam of the Yanting County Mosque. He was an upright man who helped those in need. He also worked as a veterinarian with excellent skills, saving many sick cattle and earning the respect of everyone.
There are many inscriptions on the wooden structures inside the courtyard:
Craftsmen Li Changshou and Li Changkai from Anle Township, Tongchuan Prefecture, Yanting County, are masters of their art. The family of Imam Ma Hong and others rebuilt this, respectfully inscribed by the prominent members.
Craftsmen Li Jiong, Zhang Shifu, and Li Jianming from Anle Township, Tongchuan Prefecture, Yanting County, are masters of their art. Da Tianqu, a Confucian scholar from Yanting County, Tongchuan Prefecture, Sichuan, respectfully washed his hands and wrote this, inscribed by the successful candidates.
Donors: Da Tianhui, Tianwei, Tianci, Tianyou, Tianchang, Tianzi, Tianxiang, Tianli, and Tianbang. Founding donors: Da Tianjianzhao, Tianfu, Tiande, Tianxing, Tianshun, Tianzhen, Tiancai, and Tianming.
Arabic calligraphy in the main hall of Dajiaping Mosque, and the view looking down from the small hill behind the mosque.
The countryside around Dajiaping is peaceful and quiet. A clear pond reflects the sky, and fields spread out between the hills. It is quiet all around, with only the crisp chirping of birds and the relaxed sounds of cattle and sheep, creating a moving pastoral scene.
Returning from Dajiaping Mosque to Yanting County, I broke my fast at the North Street Mosque. In the evening, hundreds of people came to the mosque to break their fast. Men, women, old, and young gathered together, showing the prosperity of the faith in Yanting. We had radish beef stew, served with crispy flatbread (subing) and rice. Although it was simple, the atmosphere was exceptionally warm and harmonious.
Yanting County Mosque was first built in 1738 (the third year of the Qianlong reign). It was originally located on Xinxie Street next to the Sanbu Liangdong Bridge. In 1796 (the first year of the Jiaqing reign), it moved to its current location at the city gate on Shangbei Street. It was expanded in 1898 and 1947, and rebuilt into its current form in 2006.
There are many Hui Muslim restaurants near the North Street Mosque in Yanting, especially on Tuanjie Road, which is a 'Hui Muslim food street'. In northern Sichuan, besides Songpan, Yanting is the most convenient place to eat. Even Langzhong does not have as many options as Yanting. Opposite the mosque gate is a shop called 'Benwei Banlu', which sells braised beef, braised chicken feet, and braised duck. The 'Jin's Braised Duck' next door is also very popular. Walking a little further, you reach Tuanjie Road. 'Dehua Kaiyuan Rice Noodles' at the intersection has been open for thirty years. They specialize in bamboo shoot rice noodles, meatball rice noodles, chicken soup rice noodles, and pea and kelp rice noodles. Many people eat there, and they are open early in the morning. Walking into Tuanjie Road, you find many halal restaurants with names like Huixiang Renjia, Huihuixiang, Huiweiju, and Xiaohuimin. They specialize in Sichuan-style braised dishes, stews, stir-fries, steamed beef with rice flour (fenzheng niurou), and beef and mutton hot pots.
After finishing the Taraweeh prayers, I stopped by Muji Noodle Shop on Tuanjie Road in Yanting for a bowl of spicy hot pot (maocai) to get some vegetables.
Near the North Street Mosque in Yanting, you can find restaurants owned by families named Jin, Mu, and Ma. The Jin family seems especially common, with places like Jin Family All-Beef and Mutton Soup House (Jin Jia Quan Niuyang Tangguan), Jincuiyuan Restaurant, and Little Jin Beef (Xiao Jin Niu). Among the Hui Muslims in Yanting, the main family names are Jiang, Mu, Da, Jin, Ma, and Yang, based on when they first arrived in Sichuan. The Jiang family's ancestral home is Qili Village in Penglai, Shandong. They moved to Sichuan in 1465 (the first year of the Chenghua reign of the Ming Dynasty) when an ancestor became the magistrate of Leshan, and they settled in Yanting after he left office. The Mu family's ancestral home is Mujiaping in Hanzhong, Shaanxi. They moved to Yanting in 1615 (the 43rd year of the Wanli reign). The Da family's ancestral home is Liuhe in Nanjing, Jiangsu. They moved to Yanting in 1644 (the first year of the Shunzhi reign of the Qing Dynasty). The Jin family's ancestral home is Wangjiao Village in Dali, Tongchuan, Shaanxi. They moved to Yanting in 1690 (the 29th year of the Kangxi reign). The Ma family's ancestral home is Weinan, Shaanxi. Their ancestor came to Sichuan during the Revolt of the Three Feudatories, and the family moved to Yanting in 1691 (the 30th year of the Kangxi reign). The Yang family's ancestral home is Shaanxi. They moved to Yanting in 1723 (the first year of the Yongzheng reign).
Breakfast starts after 5:00 a.m. near the North Street Mosque in Yanting, which is perfect for eating suhoor. Breakfast here includes steamed buns (baozi), rice porridge (xifan), rice noodles (mifen), and tea-oil porridge (youtiao). I ordered a bowl of rice noodles and a steamed bun. Yanting rice noodles are quite thin. They have a soft, smooth, and slightly chewy texture. They are quickly blanched in boiling water using a bamboo strainer. After draining the water, they are put into a bowl and topped with beef sauce (niurou saozi). The Hui Muslims' beef sauce is made by stir-frying rapeseed oil mixed with beef fat until fragrant, then adding bean paste (doubanjiang) to create a red oil. The beef is firm, flavorful, tender, and not dry. When you eat it, it is spicy, numbing, and rich with a fresh aroma. It is spicy without being harsh, numbing without being bitter, and fresh without being greasy.
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Hidden Mosques in Longchang: Neijiang Hui Muslim Community and Sichuan Road Trip
Reposted from the web
Summary: This Longchang stop near Neijiang follows the author into a local mosque and Hui Muslim community, keeping the route, dates, places, and road trip details from the Chinese original.
On February 18, I drove 50 minutes from Fushun to Longchang City, which is almost at the border of Chongqing. There are five mosques (si-fang) for Hui Muslims spread across Longchang City and Rongchang District, right on the border of Sichuan and Chongqing. This area has the strongest religious community in the region. The Hui Muslims in Longchang and Rongchang mainly have the surnames Su, Ma, Cai, Yang, and Hai. Most of their ancestors moved here from Macheng in Hubei and Shaoyang in Hunan during the Kangxi reign of the Qing Dynasty as part of the 'Huguang fills Sichuan' migration. They first settled in Yinjia Dam in Longchang, then gradually spread to Longchang's city center, Jieshi Town, Shunhe Town in the Dongxing District of Neijiang City, and Qingliu Town in the Rongchang District of Chongqing.
Longchang Mosque is located at the south end of the bridge in Jine Town in the city center. It was built in 1878 (the fourth year of the Guangxu reign) after Yang Dachang and Ye Shaosheng raised funds to buy the land. The main hall was expanded in 1957, and it was rebuilt into the current building between 1995 and 1996. The imam (ahong) at the mosque is from Xichang. It turns out he is a relative of the imam at Qinggang Mosque in Renshou, whom I visited just two days ago. The imams from Xichang play a vital role in keeping the faith alive in Sichuan.
I prayed my first Tarawih of Ramadan at Longchang Mosque. This was the first time I had met so many local elders since I started visiting mosques in southern Sichuan. The names of the elders who will provide the iftar meals each day are already listed on the blackboard in the mosque, which shows that the community spirit here is quite good.
On February 19, the imam at Longchang Mosque in Sichuan invited me to have my first suhoor of Ramadan. We had pressed duck (banya), sour soup fish, stir-fried beef with two types of peppers, pea shoots, and baby bok choy. It was a delicious mix of meat and vegetables. The skin of the pressed duck was fragrant and the meat was firm. It was salty, flavorful, and tasted better the more you chewed. The sour soup fish was clean and refreshing. The stir-fried beef with two types of peppers was a classic Sichuan-style dish, and the shredded beef was very tender. Pea shoots are a seasonal vegetable in Sichuan during winter, and they were sweet and crisp. I chatted with the imam's family at the time. After I got back, I found out that the imam's daughter and I had actually known each other on Douban a long time ago. It really is a small world.
There are several Hui Muslim restaurants next to Longchang Mosque that serve stir-fried dishes, beef offal hot pot, and beef soup. I will definitely try them if I come back.
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Summary: This Longchang stop near Neijiang follows the author into a local mosque and Hui Muslim community, keeping the route, dates, places, and road trip details from the Chinese original.
On February 18, I drove 50 minutes from Fushun to Longchang City, which is almost at the border of Chongqing. There are five mosques (si-fang) for Hui Muslims spread across Longchang City and Rongchang District, right on the border of Sichuan and Chongqing. This area has the strongest religious community in the region. The Hui Muslims in Longchang and Rongchang mainly have the surnames Su, Ma, Cai, Yang, and Hai. Most of their ancestors moved here from Macheng in Hubei and Shaoyang in Hunan during the Kangxi reign of the Qing Dynasty as part of the 'Huguang fills Sichuan' migration. They first settled in Yinjia Dam in Longchang, then gradually spread to Longchang's city center, Jieshi Town, Shunhe Town in the Dongxing District of Neijiang City, and Qingliu Town in the Rongchang District of Chongqing.
Longchang Mosque is located at the south end of the bridge in Jine Town in the city center. It was built in 1878 (the fourth year of the Guangxu reign) after Yang Dachang and Ye Shaosheng raised funds to buy the land. The main hall was expanded in 1957, and it was rebuilt into the current building between 1995 and 1996. The imam (ahong) at the mosque is from Xichang. It turns out he is a relative of the imam at Qinggang Mosque in Renshou, whom I visited just two days ago. The imams from Xichang play a vital role in keeping the faith alive in Sichuan.
I prayed my first Tarawih of Ramadan at Longchang Mosque. This was the first time I had met so many local elders since I started visiting mosques in southern Sichuan. The names of the elders who will provide the iftar meals each day are already listed on the blackboard in the mosque, which shows that the community spirit here is quite good.
On February 19, the imam at Longchang Mosque in Sichuan invited me to have my first suhoor of Ramadan. We had pressed duck (banya), sour soup fish, stir-fried beef with two types of peppers, pea shoots, and baby bok choy. It was a delicious mix of meat and vegetables. The skin of the pressed duck was fragrant and the meat was firm. It was salty, flavorful, and tasted better the more you chewed. The sour soup fish was clean and refreshing. The stir-fried beef with two types of peppers was a classic Sichuan-style dish, and the shredded beef was very tender. Pea shoots are a seasonal vegetable in Sichuan during winter, and they were sweet and crisp. I chatted with the imam's family at the time. After I got back, I found out that the imam's daughter and I had actually known each other on Douban a long time ago. It really is a small world.
There are several Hui Muslim restaurants next to Longchang Mosque that serve stir-fried dishes, beef offal hot pot, and beef soup. I will definitely try them if I come back.
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Hidden Mosques in Zigong Fushun: Sichuan Hui Muslim Heritage and Road Trip Notes
Reposted from the web
Summary: This short stop in Fushun County, Zigong, records a Sichuan mosque visit with local Hui Muslim heritage, county history, and the details preserved from the original road trip.
It takes a 2-hour drive north from Sujiaqiao Mosque in Yibin to reach Fushun County in Zigong City. Fushun Mosque is located on Fujiang Lane in the old town of Fushun. I contacted Imam Hai at the mosque beforehand, and he gave me a warm welcome.
Fushun Mosque is the only mosque in Zigong. During the late Qing Dynasty, Hui Muslims with the surnames Ma, Feng, Su, Zhang, and Cai moved here from places like Longchang, Neijiang, and Rongchang to settle down. At first, the Hui Muslims in Fushun did not have a mosque. They held their annual Eid prayers in the living room of a Ma family home at No. 1 Bo'ai Road. A local Hui Muslim named Ma Xutang once ran a small salt industry bank called Furonghao in Ziliujing. After his business failed, he moved his funds back to Fushun to buy land. He set aside 45 shi of rental grain under the name 'Ma Siyi Tang' to cover the costs of building a mosque and hiring an imam. In 1929, led by Ma Renpei, they used the Ma Siyi Tang funds to buy a house next to the Yaowang Mosque from Chen Tongxing and others of the Yongji Association. After renovations, it became the current Fushun Mosque, which was rebuilt into its present form between 1986 and 1987.
After Fushun Mosque was established, they hired Ma Huiting as the imam, who served for nearly 50 years until 1975. During the 1930s and 1940s, Imam Ma used the summer breaks to teach Islamic classics. One of his students, Master Su Xueliang, later led the ritual slaughter (xiadao) and worked at the religious school around the time of liberation. After the 1986 reconstruction, they hired Imam Hai Weijun from Rongchang, Chongqing, who has been there for 40 years. When Imam Hai first arrived at the mosque, he was only in his early 20s. He relied on Master Su Xueliang to visit Hui Muslim households each month to collect donations (nietie) for his living expenses. Three months later, Imam Hai decided to support himself. He started working part-time performing ritual slaughter (xiadao) at a Hui Muslim restaurant, and later sold fruit and ran a restaurant, which allowed Fushun Mosque to keep running for the past 40 years.
According to Imam Hai, the only local Hui Muslim restaurant in Zigong right now is Cai's Lamb Soup (Cai shi yangrou tang) near Beihuan Road, though it is not very easy to reach by public transport since it is outside the city center. Luckily, Imam Hai invited me to try the bamboo shoot stewed lamb with skin and stir-fried lamb that had been donated (chusai) to the mosque from Cai's Lamb Soup, allowing me to experience the unique Sichuan-style cuisine of Zigong's Hui Muslims. Their bamboo shoot lamb with skin had tender meat and soft skin. The bamboo shoots were fresh and slightly sweet, their fragrance cutting through the richness of the meat, which was mellow and savory. The stir-fried lamb was cooked quickly over high heat to lock in the juices. The fresh ginger added a spicy kick, the small chili peppers provided a great flavor, and the dish had that distinct 'wok hei' (guoqie) that gives Zigong Hui Muslim stir-fries their authentic, home-cooked feel. Any friends (dost) passing through Zigong next time should go and have a meal there.
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Summary: This short stop in Fushun County, Zigong, records a Sichuan mosque visit with local Hui Muslim heritage, county history, and the details preserved from the original road trip.
It takes a 2-hour drive north from Sujiaqiao Mosque in Yibin to reach Fushun County in Zigong City. Fushun Mosque is located on Fujiang Lane in the old town of Fushun. I contacted Imam Hai at the mosque beforehand, and he gave me a warm welcome.
Fushun Mosque is the only mosque in Zigong. During the late Qing Dynasty, Hui Muslims with the surnames Ma, Feng, Su, Zhang, and Cai moved here from places like Longchang, Neijiang, and Rongchang to settle down. At first, the Hui Muslims in Fushun did not have a mosque. They held their annual Eid prayers in the living room of a Ma family home at No. 1 Bo'ai Road. A local Hui Muslim named Ma Xutang once ran a small salt industry bank called Furonghao in Ziliujing. After his business failed, he moved his funds back to Fushun to buy land. He set aside 45 shi of rental grain under the name 'Ma Siyi Tang' to cover the costs of building a mosque and hiring an imam. In 1929, led by Ma Renpei, they used the Ma Siyi Tang funds to buy a house next to the Yaowang Mosque from Chen Tongxing and others of the Yongji Association. After renovations, it became the current Fushun Mosque, which was rebuilt into its present form between 1986 and 1987.
After Fushun Mosque was established, they hired Ma Huiting as the imam, who served for nearly 50 years until 1975. During the 1930s and 1940s, Imam Ma used the summer breaks to teach Islamic classics. One of his students, Master Su Xueliang, later led the ritual slaughter (xiadao) and worked at the religious school around the time of liberation. After the 1986 reconstruction, they hired Imam Hai Weijun from Rongchang, Chongqing, who has been there for 40 years. When Imam Hai first arrived at the mosque, he was only in his early 20s. He relied on Master Su Xueliang to visit Hui Muslim households each month to collect donations (nietie) for his living expenses. Three months later, Imam Hai decided to support himself. He started working part-time performing ritual slaughter (xiadao) at a Hui Muslim restaurant, and later sold fruit and ran a restaurant, which allowed Fushun Mosque to keep running for the past 40 years.
According to Imam Hai, the only local Hui Muslim restaurant in Zigong right now is Cai's Lamb Soup (Cai shi yangrou tang) near Beihuan Road, though it is not very easy to reach by public transport since it is outside the city center. Luckily, Imam Hai invited me to try the bamboo shoot stewed lamb with skin and stir-fried lamb that had been donated (chusai) to the mosque from Cai's Lamb Soup, allowing me to experience the unique Sichuan-style cuisine of Zigong's Hui Muslims. Their bamboo shoot lamb with skin had tender meat and soft skin. The bamboo shoots were fresh and slightly sweet, their fragrance cutting through the richness of the meat, which was mellow and savory. The stir-fried lamb was cooked quickly over high heat to lock in the juices. The fresh ginger added a spicy kick, the small chili peppers provided a great flavor, and the dish had that distinct 'wok hei' (guoqie) that gives Zigong Hui Muslim stir-fries their authentic, home-cooked feel. Any friends (dost) passing through Zigong next time should go and have a meal there.
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