China Mosque Travel Guide 2017: 27 Historic Mosques and Muslim Heritage

Reposted from the web

Summary: This 2017 mosque-visit record follows 27 historic mosques and Muslim heritage sites across different places. The English version keeps the original route, mosque names, photos, and local details while making the long record easier to read.

In 2017, I continued visiting Hui Muslim communities along the Grand Canal and started visiting those along the Yangtze River. That year, I traveled to Cangzhou in Hebei, Linqing, Liaocheng, Xuzhou, Huai'an, Yangzhou, Zhenjiang in Jiangsu, and Jiaxing and Hangzhou in Zhejiang along the Grand Canal. Along the Yangtze, I visited Shanghai, Nanjing in Jiangsu, Wuhu, Hexian, and Anqing in Anhui, Jiujiang in Jiangxi, and Wuhan and Jingzhou in Hubei. I recorded the scenes of these Hui Muslim communities and visited some of their ancient mosques and historical sites. Some of these communities, like those in Wuhan and Jingzhou, have since been demolished, making these records a piece of history. In the summer, I also went to Dali to visit some ancient mosques in Weishan and Eryuan. I actually visited many ancient mosques in 2017, but some were revisited later and included in previous articles, so they were not counted here. This article includes 27 of them.

January: 3 mosques in Jiangsu.

Yangzhou Puhading Tomb Mosque: Puhading is said to be a 16th-generation descendant of the Prophet. He came to Yangzhou during the Southern Song dynasty (1265-1274) and passed away in 1275 during the Yuan dynasty. He was buried on a high ridge east of the Dongguan River in the new city, a place later called Huihui Tang (commonly known as Baba Yao). The main prayer hall of the mosque is next to the gate of the Puhading tomb complex. Stone carvings inside the gate record that in 1845, people of various surnames donated funds to build a stone embankment and renovate the hall.



Zhenjiang Xinhe Street Mosque: Built in 1930, it was originally a private residence purchased with donations from Hui Muslims in both Shanghai and Zhenjiang. It is a traditional Jiangnan-style house with three courtyards and two side wings. In 1926, Fa Jiesan, who moved from Zhenjiang to Shanghai, discussed theology with Imam Ha Cheng of the Xiaotaoyuan Mosque. After accepting the teachings of the Ikhwan sect, he returned to Zhenjiang and began practicing his faith at home according to Ikhwan rituals. Later, funds were raised in Shanghai and Zhenjiang to build an Ikhwan-style mosque on Xinhe Street. In 1958, the Xinhe Street Mosque merged with the Dashan Lane Mosque. It later became a dormitory for a forestry machinery factory and has been abandoned ever since.



Zhenjiang Gurun Mosque: First built in the Yuan dynasty, it was destroyed at the end of the Yuan and beginning of the Ming dynasty. It was rebuilt during the Hongwu reign of the Ming dynasty and moved to Jianzi Lane in the city in 1602. It was occupied after 1958, destroyed in the 1970s and 1980s, and completely demolished in 2005 before being rebuilt at its current location. The site preserves a stone tablet from the Ming dynasty renovation, an ancient well railing, three Qing dynasty renovation tablets, and the mihrab from the original mosque outside the south gate of Zhenjiang.



February: 2 mosques in Zhejiang.

Jiaxing Mosque: First built in 1602, it was renovated in 1747 when a lecture hall was added to the east side of the main hall. The gate was rebuilt in 1774. After the Taiping Rebellion, it fell into ruin until it was reused by Hui Muslims who moved there from Henan after the Republic of China was established.



Hangzhou Phoenix Mosque: Originally named Zhenjiao Mosque, it was destroyed at the end of the Southern Song dynasty and rebuilt in the early Yuan dynasty. When Zhongshan Road was widened in 1929, the gate and the Moon-Watching Tower (Wangyue Lou) were demolished. The main hall was torn down in 1953. Today, only the kiln-style hall (yaodian) remains from the Yuan and Ming dynasties.



March: 3 mosques in Jiangsu.

Huai'an Hexia Mosque: Located in the ancient town of Hexia, it was built between the late Ming and early Qing dynasties. Ten of its rooms were burned down by the Nian Army in the late Qing dynasty, but it was later repaired.



Huai'an Qingjiang Mosque: First built during the Jiajing reign of the Ming dynasty, it was renovated and expanded twice during the Yongzheng and Qianlong reigns. It was destroyed by the Nian Army in 1860 and rebuilt in 1870.



Huai'an Wangjiaying Mosque: Located on the north bank of the old Yellow River course, it was built during the Yongzheng reign. It was destroyed in the war with the Nian Army in 1860 and rebuilt in 1867. It was damaged in 1966, with the main hall used as a warehouse for a shoe and hat factory, and was rebuilt in 1979. The old imam of the Wangying Mosque, Chang Tingzhang, studied at a daotang in Lingwu County (Lingzhou), Ningxia, during the Qianlong reign. Subsequent imams also went to Ningxia to study, making it a mosque of the Jahriyya (Zhe) sect.



March: 2 mosques in Hebei.

Cangzhou North Mosque: The area near the south gate of Cangzhou was a key path to the Grand Canal. Most Hui Muslims, who were mostly craftspeople and small traders, chose to live here. In 1420 (the 18th year of the Yongle reign of the Ming Dynasty), the Cangzhou North Mosque was officially built in the south of the city, with land donated and construction led by Wu Yongzuo.



Cangzhou Botou Mosque: In 1404 (the second year of the Yongle reign), the Ming Emperor Chengzu, Zhu Di, ordered residents to move to Cangzhou. Many Hui Muslims arrived in Botou because of this. Records show that Hui Muslims with the seven surnames of Yang, Cao, Dai, Hui, Zhang, Wang, and Shi all moved to Botou in 1404 by imperial decree from Erlanggang, Shangyuan County, Yingtian Prefecture, Nanjing. Research shows that Erlanggang was a camp for Semu people who surrendered to the Ming from the Yuan Dynasty. The Botou Mosque was officially completed that year. The Botou Mosque underwent large-scale expansion during the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, reaching its current form.



April, 1 mosque in Hubei

Wuhan Qiyi Street Mosque: The first mosque in Wuchang with a recorded history is the Qingjing Mosque, built in the early Ming Dynasty. Because it was located at the east gate of the Huguang Governor's Office inside the Wangshan Gate in the south of Wuchang city, it was later called the Yuanmenkou Mosque. It was also commonly known as the Shanqian Mosque because it sat south of Snake Hill. According to the Kangxi edition of the Wuchang Prefecture Gazetteer of Huguang, the Yuanmenkou Mosque once held the famous 'Imperial Praise of the Prophet in One Hundred Words' stone tablet by the Ming Emperor Taizu. The courtyard of the current Qiyi Street Mosque holds three 'One Hundred Word Praise' tablets. Besides one carved in the Qing Dynasty, the other two broken tablets are very likely the originals from the Yuanmenkou Mosque.



May, 1 mosque in Jiangxi

Jiujiang Mosque: In 1450 (the first year of the Jingtai reign of the Ming Dynasty), Hui Muslim general Ma Hazhi was transferred to be the commander-in-chief of Jiujiang. He led three imams and over 1,500 Hui Muslim officers and soldiers, along with their families, to station in Jiujiang. They built the first Jiujiang Mosque next to the military camp at Jiwan outside the West Gate. During the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, the political situation was unstable, so many Hui Muslims left Jiujiang and the mosque was destroyed. It is said the mosque was rebuilt during the Qing Dynasty, and two imperial tablets were carved during the Qianlong reign, but they were later destroyed in war. In 1821 (the first year of the Daoguang reign), Hui Muslim generals Tao Kuichen and Zhao Zhenqing from Shouzhou, Anhui, were transferred to be the garrison commander and city defense battalion leader in Jiujiang. They brought 500 Hui Muslim Flying Tiger Battalion soldiers and their families to station in Jiujiang. After that, many Hui Muslims from Anhui and Henan came to Jiujiang to do business and settle down. In 1850 (the 30th year of the Daoguang reign), Qian Baochang, an antique dealer from Huaining, Anhui, took the lead in donating timber to build two rooms and renovate the Jiujiang Mosque. In 1898 (the 24th year of the Guangxu reign), Hui Muslim general Zhu Tianqing from Shouzhou, Anhui, who served as the Jiujiang garrison commander, and Jiujiang commander-in-chief Tao Zhan led an expansion of the Jiujiang Mosque. The boundary stone set during this renovation remains today.



June, 2 mosques in Anhui

Anqing Nanguan Mosque: In 1469 (the fifth year of the Chenghua reign), the hereditary Cavalry General Ma Yi built the Anqing Nanguan Mosque on Zhongxiao Street inside the Zhenhai Gate (South Gate) of Anqing. The main gate faced the city wall, and he also built the Ma Family Muslim Dunyue Hall as a residence next to the mosque. In 1643 (the 16th year of the Chongzhen reign), the late Ming warlord Zuo Liangyu led his troops through Anqing, and the Nanguan Mosque was damaged. It was renovated during the Kangxi reign. In 1853 (the third year of the Xianfeng reign), the Nanguan Mosque was destroyed during the Taiping Rebellion. In 1876 (the second year of the Guangxu reign), the main hall was built in the style of the Wanshou Palace and Fengzhi Guild Hall with a round ridge, and the reconstruction was finally completed in 1897 (the 23rd year of the Guangxu reign).



Anqing Xiguan Mosque: During the Qianlong reign, the number of Hui Muslims outside the West Gate of Anqing grew, but the prayer times did not match the city gate opening and closing times, making it very inconvenient to go to the Nanguan Mosque. Therefore, Ma Tianrong, a 12th-generation descendant of the Ma family of the Dunyue Hall in Huaining, donated two public houses outside the South Gate to build a new mosque at Gou'erkou outside the West Gate. In 1877 (the 13th year of the Guangxu reign), the Xiguan Mosque moved to the street behind Gou'er Mountain outside the West Gate. In 1995, Xiguan Mosque was renovated and expanded into a kindergarten for ethnic minorities, and today only the main gate remains.



Three mosques in Shanghai in June.

Shanghai Fuyou Road Mosque: It was first called Chuanxin Street Prayer Hall, later renamed Chuanxin Street Mosque, and is commonly known as the North Mosque. In 1863 (the second year of the Tongzhi reign), Hui Muslims from Nanjing living near the Old North Gate of Shanghai rented two single-story houses on Xiaopi Lane as a temporary place for namaz. In 1870 (the ninth year of the Tongzhi reign), 31 community elders including Ma Hanzhang, Ha Qingtang, and Jin Lanpo raised funds under the name Wubentang to rebuild it into a main prayer hall on Chuanxin Street. In 1897 (the 23rd year of the Guangxu reign), 22 elders including Ha Shaofu and Jiang Xingjie raised money to buy land and expand the mosque by two halls, completing the work in 1900 (the 26th year of the Guangxu reign). In 1905 (the 31st year of the Guangxu reign), 31 elders including Ha Shaofu, Jiang Xingjie, Sha Yunjun, Jin Dongxu, and Yang Zhuping raised funds again to buy land and expand the mosque to three halls. In 1935, the famous Hui Muslim merchant Ha Shaofu initiated the conversion of the street-facing stone-gate (shikumen) residence into a three-story reinforced concrete building, with a moon-viewing pavilion built on the rooftop terrace.



Shanghai Xiaotaoyuan Mosque: Formerly known as the West City Mosque, it is commonly known as the West Mosque. In 1917, the famous Hui Muslim merchant Jin Ziyun bought a garden residence on Xiaotaoyuan Street in Xicang and donated the land to build the mosque. In 1925, Jin Ziyun initiated another fundraising campaign, including donations from places like Hong Kong, to rebuild the mosque into its current form.



Shanghai Zhejiang Road Mosque: Formerly known as the Concession Mosque, it is commonly known as the Foreign Mosque. In 1855 (the fifth year of the Xianfeng reign), an Indian named Dosti, who worked as a chef at the Indian Bapali Trading Company in Shanghai, bought land to serve as a cemetery for foreign nationals and built a prayer hall. In 1870 (the ninth year of the Tongzhi reign), the Bapali Trading Company funded the construction of an official Concession Mosque and appointed an Indian named Wuliamu Ali as the first imam. At that time, many Hui Muslim fur and cotton merchants from Henan and Hubei provinces had shops around the Concession Mosque and visited it frequently. In 1880 (the sixth year of the Guangxu reign), Wuliamu Ali traveled to Henan, Hubei, and other places to raise funds to rebuild the mosque. Later, the mosque was destroyed by fire. It was rebuilt in 1900 (the 26th year of the Guangxu reign) with more than 10 buildings constructed along the street to collect rent for the mosque's upkeep.



Six mosques in Yunnan in July.

Dali Xiaoweigeng Mosque: Built at the end of the Yuan Dynasty and the beginning of the Ming Dynasty, it was destroyed in the first month of the 12th year of the Tongzhi reign (1873), rebuilt in 1908, expanded in 1976, and rebuilt again in 1990.



Dali Kelizhuang Mosque: Located in Xizhou Town, it was rebuilt in 1908, with a significant portion of the funding coming from overseas Chinese in Myanmar. Kelizhuang is a famous hometown for overseas Chinese. Historically, it had powerful horse caravans that traveled throughout Yunnan to Kunming, Simao, and Zhongdian, and connected south to cities in Myanmar like Mandalay, Mawlamyine, and Lashio. Since the end of the Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China era, hundreds of families from Kelizhuang have moved to Myanmar, and people from Kelizhuang have often served as the imam at the Chinese mosque in Yangon's Chinatown.



Dali Sanmei Mosque: The Sanmei Mosque on the Dengchuan Plain was built in 1908. The Hui Muslims here speak the Bai language and wear Bai ethnic clothing, and their architectural style is very similar to that of the Bai people, so outsiders call them the White Hui Muslims.



Dali Huihuideng Mosque: The front part of the main hall is a reinforced concrete structure built in 1993, while the back part is a wooden structure built in 1944, so it looks like a new mosque from the front and an old one from the back.



Dali Shenhe Village Mosque: The main hall was rebuilt in 1995, and the minaret was built in 1946.



Dalishi Pang Mosque: Built in 1896, with its minaret added in 1920, this is also a white-style mosque (baihuisi).



August, 1 mosque in Jiangsu.

Liuhe Changjiang Road Mosque: Originally named Chengqingfang Mosque, it is also called Liuhe North Mosque and Dashi Mosque. It was built during the Qianlong reign of the Qing Dynasty. Its architectural style mimics the Liuhe South Gate Mosque. It was destroyed during the Taiping Rebellion and rebuilt during the Guangxu reign. In 1928, Lady Da (the aunt of Da Pusheng), the widow of wealthy merchant Wang Zuochen, donated funds to build the Wuxin Pavilion on the original site of the Wangyue Tower.



August, 2 mosques in Anhui.

Wuhu Mosque: Hui Muslims began settling in Wuhu no later than the late Ming and early Qing dynasties. The earliest mosque was built in the early Qing Dynasty near Jixiang Mosque at the confluence of the Yangtze River and the Qingyi River. It was burned down during the Taiping Rebellion. In 1864, migrants purchased land outside the North Gate at Beilangpu to rebuild it, and it was expanded again in 1902.



Hexian Mosque: The Great Mosque of Hezhou was first built in 1368 (the first year of the Hongwu reign of the Ming Dynasty). According to the Records of Rebuilding the Confucian School in Hezhou, in 1525 (the fourth year of the Jiajing reign), the newly appointed Hezhou magistrate Yi Luan visited the Confucian Mosque and declared that the "licentious shrine" was indulging the Hui people too much, so he ordered the destruction of the Hezhou Mosque. It was not until 1637 (the tenth year of the Chongzhen reign) that the Hezhou Mosque was rebuilt, after the insurgent army of Ma Shouying, a Hui Muslim from Shaanxi, joined forces with other late Ming rebel groups to capture Hezhou. It was rebuilt into its current structure in 1837 (the seventeenth year of the Daoguang reign).



December, 1 mosque in Shanghai.

Songjiang Mosque: Originally named Zhenjiao Mosque, it was built during the Zhizheng years of the Yuan Dynasty, rebuilt in 1391, and later expanded and renovated many times.



In 2018, I visited 101 ancient mosques across 5 countries and 8 provinces. It was a very fulfilling year. In February, I went to Shanhaiguan. During the Spring Festival holiday, I visited the Cham community in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, and then traveled to Delhi, India, to visit many historical sites from the Delhi Sultanate and Mughal Empire periods. During the Qingming holiday, I went to Xinjiang to search for the history of the Yarkent Khanate. During the May Day holiday, I went to Lhasa to visit the Tibetan Hui Muslim community. In June, I went to the UAE for Eid al-Fitr, and then I went to Tianjin to eat and explore. In July, I used my weekends to visit Nanjing and Suizhong in Liaoning to eat and explore. In September, I went to Taiyuan to do the same. At the end of September, I used my annual leave and the National Day holiday to visit Azerbaijan and Turkey, where I saw over a hundred old buildings. In November, I went to Kaifeng for sightseeing and food. See "101 Ancient Mosques Visited in 2018".

By 2019, I had mastered the skill of using holidays to visit ancient mosques abroad. I would first research a lot of information, pick the mosques worth seeing, and then use map websites to plan my route to visit as many as possible in the limited time. I visited a total of 64 ancient mosques across 7 countries and 2 provinces. See '64 Ancient Mosques Visited in 2019'.

At the start of 2020, I went to Urumqi for the Spring Festival holiday and visited the Shaanxi Old Quarter mosque. Later, I was almost locked down and unable to return to Beijing. I worked from home during the first half of the year. Once restrictions were lifted in early July, we spent a weekend visiting the Hongshuiquan Grand Mosque in Qinghai. In August, we took our honeymoon and visited 18 ancient mosques in Yunnan and Sichuan. During the National Day holiday, we traveled upstream along the Han River and visited 3 ancient mosques in southern Shaanxi. In total, I visited 23 ancient mosques across 5 provinces in 2020. See '23 Ancient Mosques Visited in 2020'.

In January 2021, mosques in Beijing were closed. In mid-March, travel restrictions were lifted, so I rushed to visit ancient mosques in Henan, Jiangsu, Hebei, Xinjiang, Liaoning, Shanxi, Tianjin, Qinghai, and Inner Mongolia. By July, travel out of Beijing was restricted again. During the National Day holiday, there were no new cases nationwide, so we went on a road trip to Yunnan to visit ancient mosques. After the holiday, I could not leave Beijing again. In 2021, with less than half a year of actual freedom, I visited 47 ancient mosques across 11 provinces and cities. See '47 Ancient Mosques Visited in 2021'.

2022 was the most difficult year, as I was unable to leave Beijing for the entire year. That year, I visited some ruins of former ancient mosques in Beijing and some mosques I had never been to before, totaling 25 ancient mosques for the year. See "Visiting 25 Ancient Mosques in Beijing in 2022."

Travel restrictions within Beijing were lifted in early 2023, and international travel restrictions were lifted in May. This year saw an explosion of travel, covering 11 provinces and cities, 6 countries, and three continents—Europe, Asia, and Africa—for a total of 124 ancient mosques. See "Visiting 124 Ancient Mosques in 2023."

Life gradually returned to normal in 2024, and the number of ancient mosques I visited dropped due to work changes and spending time with my children. This year I went to 6 provinces and 3 countries, visiting 63 ancient mosques. I visited Malaysia three times, touring 24 ancient mosques, which covers almost all the ancient mosques in Malaysia. See "Visiting 63 Ancient Mosques in 2024."
Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: This 2017 mosque-visit record follows 27 historic mosques and Muslim heritage sites across different places. The English version keeps the original route, mosque names, photos, and local details while making the long record easier to read.

In 2017, I continued visiting Hui Muslim communities along the Grand Canal and started visiting those along the Yangtze River. That year, I traveled to Cangzhou in Hebei, Linqing, Liaocheng, Xuzhou, Huai'an, Yangzhou, Zhenjiang in Jiangsu, and Jiaxing and Hangzhou in Zhejiang along the Grand Canal. Along the Yangtze, I visited Shanghai, Nanjing in Jiangsu, Wuhu, Hexian, and Anqing in Anhui, Jiujiang in Jiangxi, and Wuhan and Jingzhou in Hubei. I recorded the scenes of these Hui Muslim communities and visited some of their ancient mosques and historical sites. Some of these communities, like those in Wuhan and Jingzhou, have since been demolished, making these records a piece of history. In the summer, I also went to Dali to visit some ancient mosques in Weishan and Eryuan. I actually visited many ancient mosques in 2017, but some were revisited later and included in previous articles, so they were not counted here. This article includes 27 of them.

January: 3 mosques in Jiangsu.

Yangzhou Puhading Tomb Mosque: Puhading is said to be a 16th-generation descendant of the Prophet. He came to Yangzhou during the Southern Song dynasty (1265-1274) and passed away in 1275 during the Yuan dynasty. He was buried on a high ridge east of the Dongguan River in the new city, a place later called Huihui Tang (commonly known as Baba Yao). The main prayer hall of the mosque is next to the gate of the Puhading tomb complex. Stone carvings inside the gate record that in 1845, people of various surnames donated funds to build a stone embankment and renovate the hall.



Zhenjiang Xinhe Street Mosque: Built in 1930, it was originally a private residence purchased with donations from Hui Muslims in both Shanghai and Zhenjiang. It is a traditional Jiangnan-style house with three courtyards and two side wings. In 1926, Fa Jiesan, who moved from Zhenjiang to Shanghai, discussed theology with Imam Ha Cheng of the Xiaotaoyuan Mosque. After accepting the teachings of the Ikhwan sect, he returned to Zhenjiang and began practicing his faith at home according to Ikhwan rituals. Later, funds were raised in Shanghai and Zhenjiang to build an Ikhwan-style mosque on Xinhe Street. In 1958, the Xinhe Street Mosque merged with the Dashan Lane Mosque. It later became a dormitory for a forestry machinery factory and has been abandoned ever since.



Zhenjiang Gurun Mosque: First built in the Yuan dynasty, it was destroyed at the end of the Yuan and beginning of the Ming dynasty. It was rebuilt during the Hongwu reign of the Ming dynasty and moved to Jianzi Lane in the city in 1602. It was occupied after 1958, destroyed in the 1970s and 1980s, and completely demolished in 2005 before being rebuilt at its current location. The site preserves a stone tablet from the Ming dynasty renovation, an ancient well railing, three Qing dynasty renovation tablets, and the mihrab from the original mosque outside the south gate of Zhenjiang.



February: 2 mosques in Zhejiang.

Jiaxing Mosque: First built in 1602, it was renovated in 1747 when a lecture hall was added to the east side of the main hall. The gate was rebuilt in 1774. After the Taiping Rebellion, it fell into ruin until it was reused by Hui Muslims who moved there from Henan after the Republic of China was established.



Hangzhou Phoenix Mosque: Originally named Zhenjiao Mosque, it was destroyed at the end of the Southern Song dynasty and rebuilt in the early Yuan dynasty. When Zhongshan Road was widened in 1929, the gate and the Moon-Watching Tower (Wangyue Lou) were demolished. The main hall was torn down in 1953. Today, only the kiln-style hall (yaodian) remains from the Yuan and Ming dynasties.



March: 3 mosques in Jiangsu.

Huai'an Hexia Mosque: Located in the ancient town of Hexia, it was built between the late Ming and early Qing dynasties. Ten of its rooms were burned down by the Nian Army in the late Qing dynasty, but it was later repaired.



Huai'an Qingjiang Mosque: First built during the Jiajing reign of the Ming dynasty, it was renovated and expanded twice during the Yongzheng and Qianlong reigns. It was destroyed by the Nian Army in 1860 and rebuilt in 1870.



Huai'an Wangjiaying Mosque: Located on the north bank of the old Yellow River course, it was built during the Yongzheng reign. It was destroyed in the war with the Nian Army in 1860 and rebuilt in 1867. It was damaged in 1966, with the main hall used as a warehouse for a shoe and hat factory, and was rebuilt in 1979. The old imam of the Wangying Mosque, Chang Tingzhang, studied at a daotang in Lingwu County (Lingzhou), Ningxia, during the Qianlong reign. Subsequent imams also went to Ningxia to study, making it a mosque of the Jahriyya (Zhe) sect.



March: 2 mosques in Hebei.

Cangzhou North Mosque: The area near the south gate of Cangzhou was a key path to the Grand Canal. Most Hui Muslims, who were mostly craftspeople and small traders, chose to live here. In 1420 (the 18th year of the Yongle reign of the Ming Dynasty), the Cangzhou North Mosque was officially built in the south of the city, with land donated and construction led by Wu Yongzuo.



Cangzhou Botou Mosque: In 1404 (the second year of the Yongle reign), the Ming Emperor Chengzu, Zhu Di, ordered residents to move to Cangzhou. Many Hui Muslims arrived in Botou because of this. Records show that Hui Muslims with the seven surnames of Yang, Cao, Dai, Hui, Zhang, Wang, and Shi all moved to Botou in 1404 by imperial decree from Erlanggang, Shangyuan County, Yingtian Prefecture, Nanjing. Research shows that Erlanggang was a camp for Semu people who surrendered to the Ming from the Yuan Dynasty. The Botou Mosque was officially completed that year. The Botou Mosque underwent large-scale expansion during the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, reaching its current form.



April, 1 mosque in Hubei

Wuhan Qiyi Street Mosque: The first mosque in Wuchang with a recorded history is the Qingjing Mosque, built in the early Ming Dynasty. Because it was located at the east gate of the Huguang Governor's Office inside the Wangshan Gate in the south of Wuchang city, it was later called the Yuanmenkou Mosque. It was also commonly known as the Shanqian Mosque because it sat south of Snake Hill. According to the Kangxi edition of the Wuchang Prefecture Gazetteer of Huguang, the Yuanmenkou Mosque once held the famous 'Imperial Praise of the Prophet in One Hundred Words' stone tablet by the Ming Emperor Taizu. The courtyard of the current Qiyi Street Mosque holds three 'One Hundred Word Praise' tablets. Besides one carved in the Qing Dynasty, the other two broken tablets are very likely the originals from the Yuanmenkou Mosque.



May, 1 mosque in Jiangxi

Jiujiang Mosque: In 1450 (the first year of the Jingtai reign of the Ming Dynasty), Hui Muslim general Ma Hazhi was transferred to be the commander-in-chief of Jiujiang. He led three imams and over 1,500 Hui Muslim officers and soldiers, along with their families, to station in Jiujiang. They built the first Jiujiang Mosque next to the military camp at Jiwan outside the West Gate. During the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, the political situation was unstable, so many Hui Muslims left Jiujiang and the mosque was destroyed. It is said the mosque was rebuilt during the Qing Dynasty, and two imperial tablets were carved during the Qianlong reign, but they were later destroyed in war. In 1821 (the first year of the Daoguang reign), Hui Muslim generals Tao Kuichen and Zhao Zhenqing from Shouzhou, Anhui, were transferred to be the garrison commander and city defense battalion leader in Jiujiang. They brought 500 Hui Muslim Flying Tiger Battalion soldiers and their families to station in Jiujiang. After that, many Hui Muslims from Anhui and Henan came to Jiujiang to do business and settle down. In 1850 (the 30th year of the Daoguang reign), Qian Baochang, an antique dealer from Huaining, Anhui, took the lead in donating timber to build two rooms and renovate the Jiujiang Mosque. In 1898 (the 24th year of the Guangxu reign), Hui Muslim general Zhu Tianqing from Shouzhou, Anhui, who served as the Jiujiang garrison commander, and Jiujiang commander-in-chief Tao Zhan led an expansion of the Jiujiang Mosque. The boundary stone set during this renovation remains today.



June, 2 mosques in Anhui

Anqing Nanguan Mosque: In 1469 (the fifth year of the Chenghua reign), the hereditary Cavalry General Ma Yi built the Anqing Nanguan Mosque on Zhongxiao Street inside the Zhenhai Gate (South Gate) of Anqing. The main gate faced the city wall, and he also built the Ma Family Muslim Dunyue Hall as a residence next to the mosque. In 1643 (the 16th year of the Chongzhen reign), the late Ming warlord Zuo Liangyu led his troops through Anqing, and the Nanguan Mosque was damaged. It was renovated during the Kangxi reign. In 1853 (the third year of the Xianfeng reign), the Nanguan Mosque was destroyed during the Taiping Rebellion. In 1876 (the second year of the Guangxu reign), the main hall was built in the style of the Wanshou Palace and Fengzhi Guild Hall with a round ridge, and the reconstruction was finally completed in 1897 (the 23rd year of the Guangxu reign).



Anqing Xiguan Mosque: During the Qianlong reign, the number of Hui Muslims outside the West Gate of Anqing grew, but the prayer times did not match the city gate opening and closing times, making it very inconvenient to go to the Nanguan Mosque. Therefore, Ma Tianrong, a 12th-generation descendant of the Ma family of the Dunyue Hall in Huaining, donated two public houses outside the South Gate to build a new mosque at Gou'erkou outside the West Gate. In 1877 (the 13th year of the Guangxu reign), the Xiguan Mosque moved to the street behind Gou'er Mountain outside the West Gate. In 1995, Xiguan Mosque was renovated and expanded into a kindergarten for ethnic minorities, and today only the main gate remains.



Three mosques in Shanghai in June.

Shanghai Fuyou Road Mosque: It was first called Chuanxin Street Prayer Hall, later renamed Chuanxin Street Mosque, and is commonly known as the North Mosque. In 1863 (the second year of the Tongzhi reign), Hui Muslims from Nanjing living near the Old North Gate of Shanghai rented two single-story houses on Xiaopi Lane as a temporary place for namaz. In 1870 (the ninth year of the Tongzhi reign), 31 community elders including Ma Hanzhang, Ha Qingtang, and Jin Lanpo raised funds under the name Wubentang to rebuild it into a main prayer hall on Chuanxin Street. In 1897 (the 23rd year of the Guangxu reign), 22 elders including Ha Shaofu and Jiang Xingjie raised money to buy land and expand the mosque by two halls, completing the work in 1900 (the 26th year of the Guangxu reign). In 1905 (the 31st year of the Guangxu reign), 31 elders including Ha Shaofu, Jiang Xingjie, Sha Yunjun, Jin Dongxu, and Yang Zhuping raised funds again to buy land and expand the mosque to three halls. In 1935, the famous Hui Muslim merchant Ha Shaofu initiated the conversion of the street-facing stone-gate (shikumen) residence into a three-story reinforced concrete building, with a moon-viewing pavilion built on the rooftop terrace.



Shanghai Xiaotaoyuan Mosque: Formerly known as the West City Mosque, it is commonly known as the West Mosque. In 1917, the famous Hui Muslim merchant Jin Ziyun bought a garden residence on Xiaotaoyuan Street in Xicang and donated the land to build the mosque. In 1925, Jin Ziyun initiated another fundraising campaign, including donations from places like Hong Kong, to rebuild the mosque into its current form.



Shanghai Zhejiang Road Mosque: Formerly known as the Concession Mosque, it is commonly known as the Foreign Mosque. In 1855 (the fifth year of the Xianfeng reign), an Indian named Dosti, who worked as a chef at the Indian Bapali Trading Company in Shanghai, bought land to serve as a cemetery for foreign nationals and built a prayer hall. In 1870 (the ninth year of the Tongzhi reign), the Bapali Trading Company funded the construction of an official Concession Mosque and appointed an Indian named Wuliamu Ali as the first imam. At that time, many Hui Muslim fur and cotton merchants from Henan and Hubei provinces had shops around the Concession Mosque and visited it frequently. In 1880 (the sixth year of the Guangxu reign), Wuliamu Ali traveled to Henan, Hubei, and other places to raise funds to rebuild the mosque. Later, the mosque was destroyed by fire. It was rebuilt in 1900 (the 26th year of the Guangxu reign) with more than 10 buildings constructed along the street to collect rent for the mosque's upkeep.



Six mosques in Yunnan in July.

Dali Xiaoweigeng Mosque: Built at the end of the Yuan Dynasty and the beginning of the Ming Dynasty, it was destroyed in the first month of the 12th year of the Tongzhi reign (1873), rebuilt in 1908, expanded in 1976, and rebuilt again in 1990.



Dali Kelizhuang Mosque: Located in Xizhou Town, it was rebuilt in 1908, with a significant portion of the funding coming from overseas Chinese in Myanmar. Kelizhuang is a famous hometown for overseas Chinese. Historically, it had powerful horse caravans that traveled throughout Yunnan to Kunming, Simao, and Zhongdian, and connected south to cities in Myanmar like Mandalay, Mawlamyine, and Lashio. Since the end of the Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China era, hundreds of families from Kelizhuang have moved to Myanmar, and people from Kelizhuang have often served as the imam at the Chinese mosque in Yangon's Chinatown.



Dali Sanmei Mosque: The Sanmei Mosque on the Dengchuan Plain was built in 1908. The Hui Muslims here speak the Bai language and wear Bai ethnic clothing, and their architectural style is very similar to that of the Bai people, so outsiders call them the White Hui Muslims.



Dali Huihuideng Mosque: The front part of the main hall is a reinforced concrete structure built in 1993, while the back part is a wooden structure built in 1944, so it looks like a new mosque from the front and an old one from the back.



Dali Shenhe Village Mosque: The main hall was rebuilt in 1995, and the minaret was built in 1946.



Dalishi Pang Mosque: Built in 1896, with its minaret added in 1920, this is also a white-style mosque (baihuisi).



August, 1 mosque in Jiangsu.

Liuhe Changjiang Road Mosque: Originally named Chengqingfang Mosque, it is also called Liuhe North Mosque and Dashi Mosque. It was built during the Qianlong reign of the Qing Dynasty. Its architectural style mimics the Liuhe South Gate Mosque. It was destroyed during the Taiping Rebellion and rebuilt during the Guangxu reign. In 1928, Lady Da (the aunt of Da Pusheng), the widow of wealthy merchant Wang Zuochen, donated funds to build the Wuxin Pavilion on the original site of the Wangyue Tower.



August, 2 mosques in Anhui.

Wuhu Mosque: Hui Muslims began settling in Wuhu no later than the late Ming and early Qing dynasties. The earliest mosque was built in the early Qing Dynasty near Jixiang Mosque at the confluence of the Yangtze River and the Qingyi River. It was burned down during the Taiping Rebellion. In 1864, migrants purchased land outside the North Gate at Beilangpu to rebuild it, and it was expanded again in 1902.



Hexian Mosque: The Great Mosque of Hezhou was first built in 1368 (the first year of the Hongwu reign of the Ming Dynasty). According to the Records of Rebuilding the Confucian School in Hezhou, in 1525 (the fourth year of the Jiajing reign), the newly appointed Hezhou magistrate Yi Luan visited the Confucian Mosque and declared that the "licentious shrine" was indulging the Hui people too much, so he ordered the destruction of the Hezhou Mosque. It was not until 1637 (the tenth year of the Chongzhen reign) that the Hezhou Mosque was rebuilt, after the insurgent army of Ma Shouying, a Hui Muslim from Shaanxi, joined forces with other late Ming rebel groups to capture Hezhou. It was rebuilt into its current structure in 1837 (the seventeenth year of the Daoguang reign).



December, 1 mosque in Shanghai.

Songjiang Mosque: Originally named Zhenjiao Mosque, it was built during the Zhizheng years of the Yuan Dynasty, rebuilt in 1391, and later expanded and renovated many times.



In 2018, I visited 101 ancient mosques across 5 countries and 8 provinces. It was a very fulfilling year. In February, I went to Shanhaiguan. During the Spring Festival holiday, I visited the Cham community in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, and then traveled to Delhi, India, to visit many historical sites from the Delhi Sultanate and Mughal Empire periods. During the Qingming holiday, I went to Xinjiang to search for the history of the Yarkent Khanate. During the May Day holiday, I went to Lhasa to visit the Tibetan Hui Muslim community. In June, I went to the UAE for Eid al-Fitr, and then I went to Tianjin to eat and explore. In July, I used my weekends to visit Nanjing and Suizhong in Liaoning to eat and explore. In September, I went to Taiyuan to do the same. At the end of September, I used my annual leave and the National Day holiday to visit Azerbaijan and Turkey, where I saw over a hundred old buildings. In November, I went to Kaifeng for sightseeing and food. See "101 Ancient Mosques Visited in 2018".

By 2019, I had mastered the skill of using holidays to visit ancient mosques abroad. I would first research a lot of information, pick the mosques worth seeing, and then use map websites to plan my route to visit as many as possible in the limited time. I visited a total of 64 ancient mosques across 7 countries and 2 provinces. See '64 Ancient Mosques Visited in 2019'.

At the start of 2020, I went to Urumqi for the Spring Festival holiday and visited the Shaanxi Old Quarter mosque. Later, I was almost locked down and unable to return to Beijing. I worked from home during the first half of the year. Once restrictions were lifted in early July, we spent a weekend visiting the Hongshuiquan Grand Mosque in Qinghai. In August, we took our honeymoon and visited 18 ancient mosques in Yunnan and Sichuan. During the National Day holiday, we traveled upstream along the Han River and visited 3 ancient mosques in southern Shaanxi. In total, I visited 23 ancient mosques across 5 provinces in 2020. See '23 Ancient Mosques Visited in 2020'.

In January 2021, mosques in Beijing were closed. In mid-March, travel restrictions were lifted, so I rushed to visit ancient mosques in Henan, Jiangsu, Hebei, Xinjiang, Liaoning, Shanxi, Tianjin, Qinghai, and Inner Mongolia. By July, travel out of Beijing was restricted again. During the National Day holiday, there were no new cases nationwide, so we went on a road trip to Yunnan to visit ancient mosques. After the holiday, I could not leave Beijing again. In 2021, with less than half a year of actual freedom, I visited 47 ancient mosques across 11 provinces and cities. See '47 Ancient Mosques Visited in 2021'.

2022 was the most difficult year, as I was unable to leave Beijing for the entire year. That year, I visited some ruins of former ancient mosques in Beijing and some mosques I had never been to before, totaling 25 ancient mosques for the year. See "Visiting 25 Ancient Mosques in Beijing in 2022."

Travel restrictions within Beijing were lifted in early 2023, and international travel restrictions were lifted in May. This year saw an explosion of travel, covering 11 provinces and cities, 6 countries, and three continents—Europe, Asia, and Africa—for a total of 124 ancient mosques. See "Visiting 124 Ancient Mosques in 2023."

Life gradually returned to normal in 2024, and the number of ancient mosques I visited dropped due to work changes and spending time with my children. This year I went to 6 provinces and 3 countries, visiting 63 ancient mosques. I visited Malaysia three times, touring 24 ancient mosques, which covers almost all the ancient mosques in Malaysia. See "Visiting 63 Ancient Mosques in 2024." Collapse Read »

China Mosque Travel Guide 2018: 101 Historic Mosques and Muslim Heritage (Part 1)

Reposted from the web

Summary: This first part of the 2018 mosque-visit record covers a wide route through historic mosques, local Muslim communities, and Islamic heritage sites. It preserves the original mosque names, photos, dates, and travel observations in clear English.

In 2018, I visited 101 ancient mosques across 5 countries and 8 provinces. It was a very fulfilling year. In February, I went to Shanhaiguan to see the winter sea and visit the ancient mosque there. During the Spring Festival holiday, I visited the Cham community in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Then I went to Delhi, India, to see many historical sites from the Delhi Sultanate and Mughal Empire periods. During the Qingming Festival holiday, I went to Yarkant (Shache) in Xinjiang to listen to Muqam music and look for the history of the Yarkand Khanate. During the May Day holiday, I went to Lhasa to visit the Tibetan Hui Muslim community. In June, I went to the UAE for Eid al-Fitr, and then I went to Tianjin to eat and explore. In July, I used my weekends to visit Nanjing and Suizhong in Liaoning to eat and explore. In September, I went to Taiyuan to do the same. At the end of September, I used my annual leave and the National Day holiday to visit Azerbaijan and Turkey, where I saw over a hundred old buildings. In November, I went to Kaifeng to eat and explore.

By 2019, I had mastered the skill of using holidays to visit ancient mosques abroad. I would first research a lot of information, pick the mosques worth seeing, and then use map websites to plan my route to visit as many as possible in the limited time. I visited a total of 64 ancient mosques across 7 countries and 2 provinces. See '64 Ancient Mosques Visited in 2019'.

At the start of 2020, I went to Urumqi for the Spring Festival holiday and visited the Shaanxi Old Quarter mosque. Later, I was almost locked down and unable to return to Beijing. I worked from home during the first half of the year. Once restrictions were lifted in early July, we spent a weekend visiting the Hongshuiquan Grand Mosque in Qinghai. In August, we took our honeymoon and visited 18 ancient mosques in Yunnan and Sichuan. During the National Day holiday, we traveled upstream along the Han River and visited 3 ancient mosques in southern Shaanxi. In total, I visited 23 ancient mosques across 5 provinces in 2020. See '23 Ancient Mosques Visited in 2020'.

In January 2021, mosques in Beijing were closed. In mid-March, travel restrictions were lifted, so I rushed to visit ancient mosques in Henan, Jiangsu, Hebei, Xinjiang, Liaoning, Shanxi, Tianjin, Qinghai, and Inner Mongolia. By July, travel out of Beijing was restricted again. During the National Day holiday, there were no new cases nationwide, so we went on a road trip to Yunnan to visit ancient mosques. After the holiday, I could not leave Beijing again. In 2021, with less than half a year of actual freedom, I visited 47 ancient mosques across 11 provinces and cities. See '47 Ancient Mosques Visited in 2021'.

2022 was the most difficult year, as I was unable to leave Beijing for the entire year. That year, I visited some ruins of former ancient mosques in Beijing and some mosques I had never been to before, totaling 25 ancient mosques for the year. See "Visiting 25 Ancient Mosques in Beijing in 2022."

Travel restrictions within Beijing were lifted in early 2023, and international travel restrictions were lifted in May. This year saw an explosion of travel, covering 11 provinces and cities, 6 countries, and three continents—Europe, Asia, and Africa—for a total of 124 ancient mosques. See "Visiting 124 Ancient Mosques in 2023."

Life gradually returned to normal in 2024, and the number of ancient mosques I visited dropped due to work changes and spending time with my children. This year I went to 6 provinces and 3 countries, visiting 63 ancient mosques. I visited Malaysia three times, touring 24 ancient mosques, which covers almost all the ancient mosques in Malaysia. See "Visiting 63 Ancient Mosques in 2024."

February: 1 in Hebei.

Shanhaiguan Mosque: Located outside the west gate of Shanhaiguan city. According to the Kangxi-era "Shanhaiguan Gazetteer," in the first month of 1381 (the 14th year of the Hongwu reign), "General Xu Da sent 15,100 soldiers from the Yanshan Guard to build 32 passes, including Yongping and Jieling." According to the "Veritable Records of the Ming Emperor Taizu," in September of the same year, the "Beiping Shanhaiguan Guard Command" was established, marking the beginning of Shanhaiguan. People say the Shanhaiguan Mosque was built by Muslim officers and soldiers under Xu Da.



February: 24 in India.

Delhi Qutb Mosque: This is the first mosque in Delhi, started in 1193. After the Ghurid dynasty general Qutb occupied Delhi, many building components from Hindu and Jain temples were reused.



Delhi Jamaat Khana Mosque: Located at the heart of the Sufi holy site of Nizamuddin, it is likely the second mosque in Delhi after the Qutb Mosque, with an architectural style very close to the Khalji dynasty of the Delhi Sultanate.



Delhi Tohfe Wala Gumbad Mosque: In 1303, the Chagatai Khanate besieged the military fortress of Siri in Delhi for two months but could not break the city and eventually retreated. After this, Sultan Alauddin Khalji of the Delhi Sultanate's Khalji dynasty began to focus on building up Siri, which included the Tohfe Wala Gumbad Mosque. This mosque is very different from other buildings constructed during the Alauddin period, but some of its wall structures have the characteristics of Khalji dynasty architecture.



Delhi Begampur Mosque: This is the most important mosque in the city of Jahanpanah in Delhi and the most representative mosque of the Tughlaq dynasty of the Delhi Sultanate that still exists today. It is said to have been designed by the Iranian architect Zahir al-Din al-Jayush. The building is very grand but relatively simple, with only a small amount of carving inside the main hall.



Delhi Feroz Shah Kotla Mosque: Sultan Feroz Shah Tughlaq of the Tughlaq dynasty built the fifth city of Delhi, Ferozabad, in 1354. The mosque is the main building in the fortress and has a typical Tughlaq dynasty style. Some scholars believe that the great emperor Timur prayed here in 1398 and later built a mosque of the same design in Samarkand.



Delhi Khirki Mosque: Another important mosque in the city of Jahanpanah, besides the Begampur Mosque. This building looks very different from the Begumpur mosque, but it is almost certainly one of the seven mosques built by Khan-i-Jahan Maqbul, the prime minister to Sultan Firoz Shah Tughlaq, and was likely built in the 1370s.



Delhi Kali Mosque: This is also one of the seven mosques built by Sultan Firoz Shah Tughlaq's prime minister, Khan-i-Jahan Maqbul, and it stands near the Sufi shrine of Nizamuddin. This mosque and the Khirki Mosque are very similar in design and construction date, and both were once abandoned. The difference is that this mosque returned to use in the early 20th century, with some changes made to its original design.



Delhi Kalan Mosque: This is the northernmost of the seven mosques built by Sultan Firoz Shah Tughlaq's prime minister, Khan-i-Jahan Maqbul. It is thought to have been built to honor a Sufi saint, and it has been in use ever since.



Delhi Bara Bumbad Mosque: Located inside Lodi Gardens, the inscriptions carved inside show it was built on November 30, 1494, by a man named Mughal Abdu Amjad. The mosque features very intricate carvings, which are a great example of the lime plaster and stone-cutting techniques used for decoration during the Lodi dynasty.



Delhi Madhi Mosque: Found in the Mehrauli Archaeological Park in Delhi, its exact construction date is unknown, but its design clearly shows the Lodi dynasty style. The main hall of this mosque is open-air and consists only of a qibla wall. There are many other mosques in Delhi made of just one wall, but this one is the largest.



Delhi Nili Mosque: Located between the city of Siri and the Hauz Khas reservoir area, this is a Lodi-era mosque that is still in use.



Delhi Rajon ki Baoli Mosque: Located in the Mehrauli Archaeological Park, it features what is considered the most beautiful stepwell (baoli) in Delhi, said to have been built by Daulat Khan Khwaja Muhammad in 1506 during the reign of Sultan Sikandar Lodi (1489-1517).



Delhi Muhammad Wali Mosque: Situated right next to the northwest wall of the city of Siri, it features a typical Lodi dynasty style.



Delhi Jamali Kamali Mosque: Located in the Mehrauli Archaeological Park, this is a tomb-mosque for two men, Jamali and Kamali. Jamali, whose full name was Jamali Kamboh, was a famous 16th-century Persian poet and Sufi saint in India who was highly regarded by the Mughal emperors Babur and Humayun.



Delhi Qila-i-Kuhna Mosque: Located inside the Old Fort (Purana Qila), which was the sixth city of Delhi. After Sher Shah Suri, the ruler of the Suri dynasty, defeated the Mughal emperor Humayun and took Delhi in 1540, he used the Old Fort as his royal court and built this royal mosque in 1541.



Delhi Salimgarh Fort Mosque: Located north of the Red Fort, it was built in 1546 by Salim Shah Suri (reigned 1545-1554), the son of the Suri dynasty ruler Sher Shah Suri.



Delhi Isa Khan Mosque: Located within the Humayun's Tomb complex, this is a tomb-mosque for the Pashtun noble Isa Khan of the Suri dynasty.



Delhi Khairul Manazil Mosque: Located across from the Purana Qila fort, it was commissioned in 1561 by Maham Anga, the chief nurse to the Mughal Emperor Akbar and the actual power behind the throne from 1560 to 1562.



Delhi Afsarwala Mosque: Located southwest of Humayun's Tomb, it was built between 1566 and 1567 as a tomb-mosque for an official in the court of the Mughal Emperor Akbar.



Delhi Jama Mosque: Located in Shahjahanabad (Old Delhi), the seventh city of Delhi, it once served as the main Friday mosque for the Mughal Empire. The Jama Mosque was built between 1650 and 1656 by order of the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan (1628-1658), who also built the Taj Mahal.



Fatehpuri Mosque in Delhi: Located in the northwest of Old Delhi (Shahjahanabad), directly facing the Red Fort, it was built in 1650 by Fatehpuri Begum, the wife of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan.



Pearl Mosque (Moti Masjid) in Delhi: Located inside the Delhi Red Fort, it was built in 1659 by Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb (reigned 1658-1707) to serve as a private mosque for the royal family.



Sunehri Mosque in Delhi: Located in the eastern part of Old Delhi's Shahjahanabad, it was built in 1751 by order of Qudsia Begum.



Safdarjung Mosque in Delhi: Located west of Lodi Gardens, this is the mosque attached to the tomb of Safdarjung. Safdarjung became the Prime Minister of the Mughal Empire in 1748 and was the actual ruler of the Mughal dynasty. The Safdarjung Tomb and its mosque are known as the last major architectural works of the Mughal dynasty and serve as a symbol of the dynasty's decline.



February: 1 mosque in Vietnam.

Saigon Central Mosque: Built by South Indian Tamils in 1935, it is the most important mosque in Saigon. After Vietnam was unified in 1975, the religious community in Saigon faced a huge shock, with many believers imprisoned or fleeing abroad. Religious life in Vietnam only slowly recovered after 1986. Today, besides the local Cham people, merchants and tourists from Malaysia, Indonesia, and Pakistan all come here.



April: 3 mosques in Xinjiang.

Yarkant Azna Mosque in Shache: Built during the reign of Abu Bakr in Yarkant (1465-1514), it has not been rebuilt by later generations and still preserves its original appearance, making it very precious. Its design is very similar to the 14th and 15th-century Bibi-Khanym Mosque of the Timurid Empire and the Begampur Mosque of the Delhi Sultanate, though it is smaller in scale.



Shache Jiaman Mosque: It is said to have been started by Sultan Said Khan, the founder of the Yarkant Khanate, and later expanded during the time of Abdullah Khan (reigned 1638–1669).



Shache Altun Mosque: Built in 1533 during the Yarkant Khanate period, its current appearance dates from renovations and expansions in 1735.



May: 2 mosques in Tibet.

Lhasa Kache Lingka Mosque: Among the two mosques currently at Kache Lingka, one is the only traditional Tibetan-style mosque in Lhasa today. A plaque on the door reads: 'This mosque was first built in 1775, has undergone four repairs over its long history, and completed its last repair in 2008.' The facade of the other mosque has been rebuilt in an Arab style, and a plaque at the entrance reads: 'This mosque was first built in 1655 AD, has undergone many repairs over its long history, and completed its last repair in 2000 AD.'





June: 1 mosque in Tianjin.

Northwest Corner South Mosque: It is one of the few remaining historical sites in the Northwest Corner and is currently the center of the local Hui Muslim community. It was built during the Guangxu reign and completed during the Xuantong reign.



June: 5 mosques in the UAE.

Dubai Nasser bin Obaid bin Lootah Mosque: Lootah is a famous merchant family in the UAE, and this family first came to Dubai from Liwa to settle in Al Ras. At that time, Al Ras had no residents and was just a place for grazing camels. Later, other members of this family also came to settle in Al Ras, including Obaid bin Lootah. In 1910, Obaid bin Lootah's son, Nasser, built this mosque.



Almulla Mosque in Dubai: It follows the traditional Gulf style and has no minaret or dome.



Obeid Bin Issa Mosque in Sharjah: This is the oldest mosque in Sharjah. It is a rammed-earth building from the 19th century, and there is a palm-frond shelter in front of the ablution area. The main prayer hall has wooden pillars. The mihrab is plain with no decorations, and the minbar pulpit next to it is also set inside a niche.



Al-Daleel Mosque in Sharjah: A historic mosque that also features a palm-frond shelter in front of the main hall. To make a traditional palm ceiling, palm fibers are first washed and dried, then twisted into twine and tied onto trimmed palm branches. Next, palm leaves are washed and dried, woven into large mats, and finally laid together to form the ceiling.



Al Jame'i Mosque in Sharjah: This is the Friday mosque of Sharjah's old town. Its low, flat-roofed style is very similar to traditional architecture in Turpan, as both were designed for hot and dry climates.



July, Jiangsu

Caoqiao Mosque in Nanjing: In 2003, Caoqiao Mosque and Taiping Road Mosque were demolished. The main hall and second hall components of Taiping Road Mosque were rebuilt at a new site, and the project was completed in 2005. Caoqiao Mosque was first built during the Qianlong reign, destroyed during the Taiping Rebellion, and rebuilt in the early years of the Tongzhi reign. Taiping Road Mosque was originally called Huapailou Mosque. Legend says it was built by Chang Yuchun in the early Ming Dynasty. It was destroyed during the Taiping Rebellion, later rebuilt, and reconstructed again in 1924 with donations from the brothers of Nanjing businessman Jiang Guobang.



Jingjue Mosque: First built in 1388 (the 21st year of the Hongwu reign), it was burned down in 1430 (the 5th year of the Xuande reign) and rebuilt after Zheng He petitioned for its restoration. It was destroyed during the Taiping Rebellion, and its components were moved to the Prince's Mansion. It was rebuilt in 1877 (the 3rd year of the Guangxu reign) and renovated in 1879 (the 5th year of the Guangxu reign) to form its current layout.



July, Liaoning, 1 mosque

Suizhong Mosque: Starting in the 18th century, more than ten families of Hui Muslims, including the Zhang, Ding, Li, and Jin families, moved to Suizhong from Hebei Province. In 1737 (the 2nd year of the Qianlong reign), the first mosque was built below the Kueixing Tower in the southeast of Suizhong city. In 1797 (the 3rd year of the Jiaqing reign), it was moved to its current location inside the West Gate.



August, Beijing, 2 mosques

Dongsi Mosque: The most worth-seeing part of Dongsi Mosque is the main hall built in 1447. The rear hall looks like a Chinese-style beamless hall from the outside, but inside it actually contains three brick domes. This is another way Chinese mosques localized the dome in the 15th century, following the example of the Phoenix Mosque in Hangzhou, where the dome was converted into a wooden pavilion during the Yuan Dynasty.



Huashi Mosque: First built in 1414 (the 12th year of the Ming Wanli reign), it is said to have been the residence of Chang Yuchun. It was renovated in the 41st year of the Kangxi reign and again during the Qianlong reign.



September, Shanxi, 1 mosque

Taiyuan Mosque: Located inside the South Gate on Beef Alley (Niurou Xiang). The main prayer hall and the Shengxin Tower (call to prayer tower, or bangkelou) are Ming Dynasty structures. This matches the time when Taiyuan city took its final shape and Hui Muslims officially settled in the city.



14 sites in Azerbaijan in September

Baku Palace Mosque: Built between 1441 and 1442 by order of the Shirvanshah king, Khalilullah I. In 1723, the army of Tsar Peter I shelled Baku from the Caspian Sea, damaging the northeast facade. The minaret was hit by artillery fire in 1918. The main prayer hall is very small and is generally used only by people from the palace or the immediate neighborhood.



Muhammad Mosque: Built in 1078-1079, it is the oldest surviving religious building in Azerbaijan. According to the Kufic Arabic inscription on the north wall, the mosque was built by Muhammad ibn Abu Bakr. Research shows the mosque was built on the site of a Zoroastrian fire mosque, and Muhammad was the mayor of Baku at the time.



Takyeh Mosque: A 13th-century Sufi mosque that served as a place for Sufi practitioners to study and rest.



Khidir Mosque: Built in 1301. Archaeological excavations in 1988 revealed that this mosque was built on the site of a Zoroastrian mosque.



Mirza Ahmad Mosque: Built in 1345. The wall at the entrance is carved with scripture and the architect's name. It is currently closed due to its dilapidated state.



Chin Mosque: Stone carvings at the top of the entrance show it was built between 1375 and 1376, with repairs made between 1772 and 1773.



Molla Ahmad Mosque: Built in the early 14th century by the famous architect Mahmud ibn Sad of the Shirvan-Absheron school. It is a typical example of a small community mosque from the Shirvanshah dynasty.



Sheikh Ibrahim Mosque: Built by Haji Amirshah ibn Yagub between 1415 and 1416. Baku was ruled at the time by the 33rd Shirvanshah king, Ibrahim I (reigned 1382-1417), which is why it is also called the Sheikh Ibrahim Mosque. In the 19th century, the mosque's facade was divided into three sections and windows were added.



Juma Mosque: The main mosque in Baku's Old City. Inscriptions on the mosque walls show that Amir Sharaf al-Din Mahmud renovated it in 1309. The current main prayer hall was funded by Baku merchant Haji Shikhlali Dadashov in 1899, blending traditional styles with European architecture.



Sayyid Yahya Murtuza Mosque: Built in the early 17th century by Sayyid Yahya Murtuza himself. He was a famous local imam and was buried here after his passing. During the Soviet era, it became a carpenter's workshop. Religious activities resumed in the 1990s, and it is now affiliated with the Juma Mosque.



Haji Bani Mosque: Built in the 16th century by the architect Haji Bani. A women's prayer hall and windows were added during renovations in 1902-1903.



Baba Kuhi Bakuvi Mosque: Located north of the Maiden Tower and thought to date back to the 9th or 10th century. Archaeologist Farhad Ibrahimov excavated the site between 1990 and 1993, and the mihrab niche was unearthed in 1998.



Haji Heybat Mosque: Built in 1791 by the architect Haji Heybat Amir Ali oghlu. It is a small community mosque.



Məktəb Mosque: Built between 1646 and 1647, it sits right next to the Maiden Tower.



38 mosques in Turkey in October.

Konya Iplikci Mosque: Ordered in 1201 by the Seljuk vizier Shams al-Din Altun Aba, it was built by the architect Abu al-Fazi Abd al-Jabbar from Tabriz, Iran. This is key evidence of Persian craftsmen directly influencing Seljuk architecture. This building went through a series of renovations during the Karamanid dynasty, the Ottoman Empire, and modern times. Today, the original mosaic tiles on the mihrab inside the hall have been replaced by marble, but the parts at the bottom covered by carpets are still original pieces from the Seljuk period.



Konya Alaeddin Mosque: It was rebuilt on top of a Christian church shortly after the Seljuks occupied Konya in the late 11th century, and many of its components were taken directly from nearby Byzantine buildings. The earliest surviving inscription dates back to the reign of the Seljuk Sultan of Rum, Mesud I (reigned 1116–1156). The mosque's ebony minbar has an inscription from 1155, and the tiles on the mosque's mihrab and dome should have been built in the same period.



Konya Sahib Ata Mosque: Built by Sahib Ata Fahreddin Ali, the architect was Keluk bin Abdullah. Sahib Ata was a key official in the court of the Seljuk Sultanate of Rum from the 1250s until his death in 1288, and he even held great power in the sultanate after 1277.



Bursa Orhan Mosque: This was the first mosque in Bursa. It was built in 1339 by the second Ottoman ruler, Orhan (reigned 1324-1362). It was burned by the Karamanid dynasty in 1413, rebuilt by Sultan Mehmed I (reigned 1379-1421) in 1417, and repaired again after being damaged by an earthquake in 1855.



Bursa Grand Mosque (Ulu Cami): This is the largest mosque in Bursa and the largest of the multi-domed Ottoman mosques. This mosque consists of 20 domes and two minarets and is known as a masterpiece of early Ottoman architecture. It was built between 1396 and 1399 by the fourth Ottoman Sultan, Bayezid I (reigned 1389-1402), to celebrate the famous Battle of Nicopolis. The architect is said to be Ali Neccar.



Bursa Hüdavendigar Mosque: Also called the Murad I Mosque, it was built by Sultan Murad I between 1363 and 1366. It is a classic early Ottoman T-shaped mosque. Its biggest feature is that the madrasa is located on the floor above the prayer hall. Because many Byzantine craftsmen participated in its construction, the mosque features Byzantine-style brickwork and column capitals. At the same time, this is the only Ottoman mosque with two porches.



Bursa Lightning Mosque (Yıldırım Bayezid Mosque): Also called the Lightning Bayezid Mosque, it was ordered by Sultan Bayezid I between 1390 and 1395. It underwent major repairs after the 1855 earthquake. It is the only early Ottoman mosque in Bursa built entirely of stone, without using any bricks. the Lightning Mosque is the first mosque to feature a Bursa arch structure. This flat arch is located between the main hall and the gate, supporting two large domes.



Bursa Green Mosque (Yeşil Cami): Also called the Mehmed I Mosque, it was built by Sultan Mehmed I between 1414 and 1419. It is a masterpiece by the famous early 15th-century Ottoman architect İvaz Pasha. The stone carvings on the gate are considered the pinnacle of early Ottoman architecture. Due to the death of Mehmed I, the narthex of the mosque was never finished.



Bursa Muradiye Mosque: Also called the Murad II Mosque, it was built by Sultan Murad II between 1425 and 1426. The mosque is an early Ottoman T-shaped mosque. The main hall has two domes, and each wing has a small dome. The interior of the mosque is decorated with blue-green and dark blue hexagonal tiles.



Edirne Old Mosque (Eski Cami): In 1413, Prince Mehmed was crowned Sultan Mehmed I in Edirne, and he officially completed the construction of this mosque the following year. This mosque is the oldest one still standing in Edirne, so it is called the Old Mosque (Eski Cami). The Old Mosque is one of the last multi-domed mosques to use the early Ottoman Seljuk style, featuring nine central domes in total. Compared to earlier Seljuk multi-domed mosques, the domes here have a noticeably larger diameter, showing that the Ottomans were starting to move past their early phase.



Edirne Muradiye Mosque: This is a small T-shaped mosque on a hill north of Edirne, built in 1436 by order of the sixth Ottoman Sultan, Murad II (reigned 1421-1444). This site was originally part of a Sufi Mevlevi complex before it was converted into a mosque.



Edirne Three-Balcony Mosque (Üç Şerefeli Camii): This is known as a major landmark that started a new era in Ottoman architecture, being the first Ottoman mosque with a central dome and the first to feature a courtyard. The mosque was started in 1438 by the sixth Ottoman Sultan, Murad II (reigned 1421-1444), and finished in 1447.



Edirne Kasım Paşa Mosque: This was built in 1479 by order of Kasım Paşa. Kasım Paşa was a famous Ottoman general who served as the commander of Rumelia, the European part of the Ottoman Empire. The mosque closed after 1950 due to the construction of a dam, and it has been damaged by floods ever since, making it the most wild and untamed early Ottoman mosque in Edirne.



Edirne Sultan Bayezid II Mosque: Located on the north bank of the Tunca River (Sadun River) in the northwest suburbs of Edirne, it was built by order of the eighth Ottoman Sultan, Bayezid II (reigned 1481-1512).



Istanbul Atik Ali Pasha Mosque: Built in 1496 by Atik Ali Pasha, the Grand Vizier to Ottoman Sultan Bayezid II, it is located south of the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul.



Istanbul Selim I Mosque: Built in 1520 by Ottoman Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent to honor his father, Sultan Selim I (reigned 1512-1520), and completed in 1527, it is the third imperial mosque built by the Ottoman dynasty in Istanbul.



Istanbul Mihrimah Sultan Mosque: Built between 1543 and 1548, it is one of the most famous landmarks in the Üsküdar district and the second complex by Mimar Sinan still standing in Istanbul. It is the first semi-domed mosque designed by Mimar Sinan.



Istanbul Prince Mosque (Şehzade Mosque): Located on the third hill of Istanbul's old city and built between 1543 and 1548, it is considered Mimar Sinan's most important early work and his first masterpiece. It is the second semi-domed mosque designed by Mimar Sinan, consisting of one main dome and four semi-domes. This was both an improvement on Sinan's previous work, the Mihrimah Sultan Mosque with its three semi-domes, and a new interpretation of earlier designs like the Fatih Mosque (1471) and the Bayezid II Mosque (1506). This design separates the four pillars supporting the central dome, creating a more stunning visual effect.



Istanbul Hadım Ibrahim Pasha Mosque: Built in 1551, it was commissioned by the Vizier Ibrahim Pasha, known as the Eunuch (Hadım), and built by Mimar Sinan. It belongs to the first phase of Mimar Sinan's single-dome mosque designs. In this phase, Sinan used eight buttresses to support the main dome, a design that also foreshadowed his next phase of octagonal dome structures.



Istanbul Sinan Pasha Mosque: Completed in 1555 and commissioned by Sinan Pasha, it is Mimar Sinan's reinterpretation of the famous Three-Balcony Mosque (Üç Şerefeli Camii) in Edirne, and is therefore known as the smaller version of the Three-Balcony Mosque.



Istanbul Süleymaniye Mosque: Commissioned by Ottoman Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent and built by Mimar Sinan, it sits on the third hill of Istanbul and is a key part of the old city's skyline. Construction took seven years from 1550 to 1557, though it was not officially finished until 1558. This is the largest square-based, semi-domed mosque in the career of architect Mimar Sinan, with a main dome 53 meters high, which was the tallest in the Ottoman Empire at the time.



Sokollu Mehmed Pasha Mosque in Istanbul: Commissioned by Grand Vizier Sokollu Mehmed Pasha and his wife İsmihan Sultan, it was built by Mimar Sinan between 1567 and 1572 and is famous for its beautiful Iznik tiles inside.



Mihrimah Sultan Mosque in Istanbul: Built by Mimar Sinan between 1563 and 1570, commissioned by Mihrimah Sultan, the daughter of Suleiman the Magnificent. The complex sits on the sixth hill inside the northwest walls of Istanbul, which is the highest point of the old city. The structure of the mosque is considered the most advanced type of single-dome mosque from that period. The 35-meter-high dome is supported by four piers, with four arches and four pendentives forming a tower-like structure. Four polygonal piers protrude on the outside but are almost invisible from the inside, creating a shape like a neatly cut crystal.



Kara Ahmed Pasha Mosque in Istanbul: Commissioned by Kara Ahmed Pasha and built by Mimar Sinan, it was finally completed in 1572. It is the last imperial building in Istanbul to use dry cord (cuerda seca) tiles for decoration.



Mimar Sinan Mosque in Istanbul: Built by Mimar Sinan for himself in 1573, it was destroyed by fire in 1918, and soon after the walls collapsed, leaving only a 10-meter-high minaret.



Sokollu Mehmed Pasha Mosque in Istanbul: Commissioned in 1578 by Ottoman Grand Vizier Sokollu Mehmed Pasha (in office 1565-1579) and built by Mimar Sinan, Sinan continued the octagonal support system he used in his masterpiece, the Selimiye Mosque, and added a small dome at each corner. Additionally, the front porch of the mosque is completely enclosed and connected to the main hall, which is very unique among Sinan's works.



Kılıç Ali Pasha Mosque in Istanbul: Commissioned by Ottoman Admiral Kılıç Ali Pasha and built by Mimar Sinan between 1578 and 1580. The mosque has a central area surrounded by galleries on three sides, with the center and side areas separated, which is very similar to the structure of the Hagia Sophia and different from other classic Ottoman mosque architecture of the same period.



Şemsi Pasha Mosque in Istanbul: Built in 1581 by Mimar Sinan for the Ottoman Grand Vizier (Vezir-i Azam) Şemsi Pasha, it is the smallest complex Sinan ever built and is a famous example in Istanbul of how human architecture can blend perfectly with the natural landscape.
Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: This first part of the 2018 mosque-visit record covers a wide route through historic mosques, local Muslim communities, and Islamic heritage sites. It preserves the original mosque names, photos, dates, and travel observations in clear English.

In 2018, I visited 101 ancient mosques across 5 countries and 8 provinces. It was a very fulfilling year. In February, I went to Shanhaiguan to see the winter sea and visit the ancient mosque there. During the Spring Festival holiday, I visited the Cham community in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Then I went to Delhi, India, to see many historical sites from the Delhi Sultanate and Mughal Empire periods. During the Qingming Festival holiday, I went to Yarkant (Shache) in Xinjiang to listen to Muqam music and look for the history of the Yarkand Khanate. During the May Day holiday, I went to Lhasa to visit the Tibetan Hui Muslim community. In June, I went to the UAE for Eid al-Fitr, and then I went to Tianjin to eat and explore. In July, I used my weekends to visit Nanjing and Suizhong in Liaoning to eat and explore. In September, I went to Taiyuan to do the same. At the end of September, I used my annual leave and the National Day holiday to visit Azerbaijan and Turkey, where I saw over a hundred old buildings. In November, I went to Kaifeng to eat and explore.

By 2019, I had mastered the skill of using holidays to visit ancient mosques abroad. I would first research a lot of information, pick the mosques worth seeing, and then use map websites to plan my route to visit as many as possible in the limited time. I visited a total of 64 ancient mosques across 7 countries and 2 provinces. See '64 Ancient Mosques Visited in 2019'.

At the start of 2020, I went to Urumqi for the Spring Festival holiday and visited the Shaanxi Old Quarter mosque. Later, I was almost locked down and unable to return to Beijing. I worked from home during the first half of the year. Once restrictions were lifted in early July, we spent a weekend visiting the Hongshuiquan Grand Mosque in Qinghai. In August, we took our honeymoon and visited 18 ancient mosques in Yunnan and Sichuan. During the National Day holiday, we traveled upstream along the Han River and visited 3 ancient mosques in southern Shaanxi. In total, I visited 23 ancient mosques across 5 provinces in 2020. See '23 Ancient Mosques Visited in 2020'.

In January 2021, mosques in Beijing were closed. In mid-March, travel restrictions were lifted, so I rushed to visit ancient mosques in Henan, Jiangsu, Hebei, Xinjiang, Liaoning, Shanxi, Tianjin, Qinghai, and Inner Mongolia. By July, travel out of Beijing was restricted again. During the National Day holiday, there were no new cases nationwide, so we went on a road trip to Yunnan to visit ancient mosques. After the holiday, I could not leave Beijing again. In 2021, with less than half a year of actual freedom, I visited 47 ancient mosques across 11 provinces and cities. See '47 Ancient Mosques Visited in 2021'.

2022 was the most difficult year, as I was unable to leave Beijing for the entire year. That year, I visited some ruins of former ancient mosques in Beijing and some mosques I had never been to before, totaling 25 ancient mosques for the year. See "Visiting 25 Ancient Mosques in Beijing in 2022."

Travel restrictions within Beijing were lifted in early 2023, and international travel restrictions were lifted in May. This year saw an explosion of travel, covering 11 provinces and cities, 6 countries, and three continents—Europe, Asia, and Africa—for a total of 124 ancient mosques. See "Visiting 124 Ancient Mosques in 2023."

Life gradually returned to normal in 2024, and the number of ancient mosques I visited dropped due to work changes and spending time with my children. This year I went to 6 provinces and 3 countries, visiting 63 ancient mosques. I visited Malaysia three times, touring 24 ancient mosques, which covers almost all the ancient mosques in Malaysia. See "Visiting 63 Ancient Mosques in 2024."

February: 1 in Hebei.

Shanhaiguan Mosque: Located outside the west gate of Shanhaiguan city. According to the Kangxi-era "Shanhaiguan Gazetteer," in the first month of 1381 (the 14th year of the Hongwu reign), "General Xu Da sent 15,100 soldiers from the Yanshan Guard to build 32 passes, including Yongping and Jieling." According to the "Veritable Records of the Ming Emperor Taizu," in September of the same year, the "Beiping Shanhaiguan Guard Command" was established, marking the beginning of Shanhaiguan. People say the Shanhaiguan Mosque was built by Muslim officers and soldiers under Xu Da.



February: 24 in India.

Delhi Qutb Mosque: This is the first mosque in Delhi, started in 1193. After the Ghurid dynasty general Qutb occupied Delhi, many building components from Hindu and Jain temples were reused.



Delhi Jamaat Khana Mosque: Located at the heart of the Sufi holy site of Nizamuddin, it is likely the second mosque in Delhi after the Qutb Mosque, with an architectural style very close to the Khalji dynasty of the Delhi Sultanate.



Delhi Tohfe Wala Gumbad Mosque: In 1303, the Chagatai Khanate besieged the military fortress of Siri in Delhi for two months but could not break the city and eventually retreated. After this, Sultan Alauddin Khalji of the Delhi Sultanate's Khalji dynasty began to focus on building up Siri, which included the Tohfe Wala Gumbad Mosque. This mosque is very different from other buildings constructed during the Alauddin period, but some of its wall structures have the characteristics of Khalji dynasty architecture.



Delhi Begampur Mosque: This is the most important mosque in the city of Jahanpanah in Delhi and the most representative mosque of the Tughlaq dynasty of the Delhi Sultanate that still exists today. It is said to have been designed by the Iranian architect Zahir al-Din al-Jayush. The building is very grand but relatively simple, with only a small amount of carving inside the main hall.



Delhi Feroz Shah Kotla Mosque: Sultan Feroz Shah Tughlaq of the Tughlaq dynasty built the fifth city of Delhi, Ferozabad, in 1354. The mosque is the main building in the fortress and has a typical Tughlaq dynasty style. Some scholars believe that the great emperor Timur prayed here in 1398 and later built a mosque of the same design in Samarkand.



Delhi Khirki Mosque: Another important mosque in the city of Jahanpanah, besides the Begampur Mosque. This building looks very different from the Begumpur mosque, but it is almost certainly one of the seven mosques built by Khan-i-Jahan Maqbul, the prime minister to Sultan Firoz Shah Tughlaq, and was likely built in the 1370s.



Delhi Kali Mosque: This is also one of the seven mosques built by Sultan Firoz Shah Tughlaq's prime minister, Khan-i-Jahan Maqbul, and it stands near the Sufi shrine of Nizamuddin. This mosque and the Khirki Mosque are very similar in design and construction date, and both were once abandoned. The difference is that this mosque returned to use in the early 20th century, with some changes made to its original design.



Delhi Kalan Mosque: This is the northernmost of the seven mosques built by Sultan Firoz Shah Tughlaq's prime minister, Khan-i-Jahan Maqbul. It is thought to have been built to honor a Sufi saint, and it has been in use ever since.



Delhi Bara Bumbad Mosque: Located inside Lodi Gardens, the inscriptions carved inside show it was built on November 30, 1494, by a man named Mughal Abdu Amjad. The mosque features very intricate carvings, which are a great example of the lime plaster and stone-cutting techniques used for decoration during the Lodi dynasty.



Delhi Madhi Mosque: Found in the Mehrauli Archaeological Park in Delhi, its exact construction date is unknown, but its design clearly shows the Lodi dynasty style. The main hall of this mosque is open-air and consists only of a qibla wall. There are many other mosques in Delhi made of just one wall, but this one is the largest.



Delhi Nili Mosque: Located between the city of Siri and the Hauz Khas reservoir area, this is a Lodi-era mosque that is still in use.



Delhi Rajon ki Baoli Mosque: Located in the Mehrauli Archaeological Park, it features what is considered the most beautiful stepwell (baoli) in Delhi, said to have been built by Daulat Khan Khwaja Muhammad in 1506 during the reign of Sultan Sikandar Lodi (1489-1517).



Delhi Muhammad Wali Mosque: Situated right next to the northwest wall of the city of Siri, it features a typical Lodi dynasty style.



Delhi Jamali Kamali Mosque: Located in the Mehrauli Archaeological Park, this is a tomb-mosque for two men, Jamali and Kamali. Jamali, whose full name was Jamali Kamboh, was a famous 16th-century Persian poet and Sufi saint in India who was highly regarded by the Mughal emperors Babur and Humayun.



Delhi Qila-i-Kuhna Mosque: Located inside the Old Fort (Purana Qila), which was the sixth city of Delhi. After Sher Shah Suri, the ruler of the Suri dynasty, defeated the Mughal emperor Humayun and took Delhi in 1540, he used the Old Fort as his royal court and built this royal mosque in 1541.



Delhi Salimgarh Fort Mosque: Located north of the Red Fort, it was built in 1546 by Salim Shah Suri (reigned 1545-1554), the son of the Suri dynasty ruler Sher Shah Suri.



Delhi Isa Khan Mosque: Located within the Humayun's Tomb complex, this is a tomb-mosque for the Pashtun noble Isa Khan of the Suri dynasty.



Delhi Khairul Manazil Mosque: Located across from the Purana Qila fort, it was commissioned in 1561 by Maham Anga, the chief nurse to the Mughal Emperor Akbar and the actual power behind the throne from 1560 to 1562.



Delhi Afsarwala Mosque: Located southwest of Humayun's Tomb, it was built between 1566 and 1567 as a tomb-mosque for an official in the court of the Mughal Emperor Akbar.



Delhi Jama Mosque: Located in Shahjahanabad (Old Delhi), the seventh city of Delhi, it once served as the main Friday mosque for the Mughal Empire. The Jama Mosque was built between 1650 and 1656 by order of the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan (1628-1658), who also built the Taj Mahal.



Fatehpuri Mosque in Delhi: Located in the northwest of Old Delhi (Shahjahanabad), directly facing the Red Fort, it was built in 1650 by Fatehpuri Begum, the wife of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan.



Pearl Mosque (Moti Masjid) in Delhi: Located inside the Delhi Red Fort, it was built in 1659 by Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb (reigned 1658-1707) to serve as a private mosque for the royal family.



Sunehri Mosque in Delhi: Located in the eastern part of Old Delhi's Shahjahanabad, it was built in 1751 by order of Qudsia Begum.



Safdarjung Mosque in Delhi: Located west of Lodi Gardens, this is the mosque attached to the tomb of Safdarjung. Safdarjung became the Prime Minister of the Mughal Empire in 1748 and was the actual ruler of the Mughal dynasty. The Safdarjung Tomb and its mosque are known as the last major architectural works of the Mughal dynasty and serve as a symbol of the dynasty's decline.



February: 1 mosque in Vietnam.

Saigon Central Mosque: Built by South Indian Tamils in 1935, it is the most important mosque in Saigon. After Vietnam was unified in 1975, the religious community in Saigon faced a huge shock, with many believers imprisoned or fleeing abroad. Religious life in Vietnam only slowly recovered after 1986. Today, besides the local Cham people, merchants and tourists from Malaysia, Indonesia, and Pakistan all come here.



April: 3 mosques in Xinjiang.

Yarkant Azna Mosque in Shache: Built during the reign of Abu Bakr in Yarkant (1465-1514), it has not been rebuilt by later generations and still preserves its original appearance, making it very precious. Its design is very similar to the 14th and 15th-century Bibi-Khanym Mosque of the Timurid Empire and the Begampur Mosque of the Delhi Sultanate, though it is smaller in scale.



Shache Jiaman Mosque: It is said to have been started by Sultan Said Khan, the founder of the Yarkant Khanate, and later expanded during the time of Abdullah Khan (reigned 1638–1669).



Shache Altun Mosque: Built in 1533 during the Yarkant Khanate period, its current appearance dates from renovations and expansions in 1735.



May: 2 mosques in Tibet.

Lhasa Kache Lingka Mosque: Among the two mosques currently at Kache Lingka, one is the only traditional Tibetan-style mosque in Lhasa today. A plaque on the door reads: 'This mosque was first built in 1775, has undergone four repairs over its long history, and completed its last repair in 2008.' The facade of the other mosque has been rebuilt in an Arab style, and a plaque at the entrance reads: 'This mosque was first built in 1655 AD, has undergone many repairs over its long history, and completed its last repair in 2000 AD.'





June: 1 mosque in Tianjin.

Northwest Corner South Mosque: It is one of the few remaining historical sites in the Northwest Corner and is currently the center of the local Hui Muslim community. It was built during the Guangxu reign and completed during the Xuantong reign.



June: 5 mosques in the UAE.

Dubai Nasser bin Obaid bin Lootah Mosque: Lootah is a famous merchant family in the UAE, and this family first came to Dubai from Liwa to settle in Al Ras. At that time, Al Ras had no residents and was just a place for grazing camels. Later, other members of this family also came to settle in Al Ras, including Obaid bin Lootah. In 1910, Obaid bin Lootah's son, Nasser, built this mosque.



Almulla Mosque in Dubai: It follows the traditional Gulf style and has no minaret or dome.



Obeid Bin Issa Mosque in Sharjah: This is the oldest mosque in Sharjah. It is a rammed-earth building from the 19th century, and there is a palm-frond shelter in front of the ablution area. The main prayer hall has wooden pillars. The mihrab is plain with no decorations, and the minbar pulpit next to it is also set inside a niche.



Al-Daleel Mosque in Sharjah: A historic mosque that also features a palm-frond shelter in front of the main hall. To make a traditional palm ceiling, palm fibers are first washed and dried, then twisted into twine and tied onto trimmed palm branches. Next, palm leaves are washed and dried, woven into large mats, and finally laid together to form the ceiling.



Al Jame'i Mosque in Sharjah: This is the Friday mosque of Sharjah's old town. Its low, flat-roofed style is very similar to traditional architecture in Turpan, as both were designed for hot and dry climates.



July, Jiangsu

Caoqiao Mosque in Nanjing: In 2003, Caoqiao Mosque and Taiping Road Mosque were demolished. The main hall and second hall components of Taiping Road Mosque were rebuilt at a new site, and the project was completed in 2005. Caoqiao Mosque was first built during the Qianlong reign, destroyed during the Taiping Rebellion, and rebuilt in the early years of the Tongzhi reign. Taiping Road Mosque was originally called Huapailou Mosque. Legend says it was built by Chang Yuchun in the early Ming Dynasty. It was destroyed during the Taiping Rebellion, later rebuilt, and reconstructed again in 1924 with donations from the brothers of Nanjing businessman Jiang Guobang.



Jingjue Mosque: First built in 1388 (the 21st year of the Hongwu reign), it was burned down in 1430 (the 5th year of the Xuande reign) and rebuilt after Zheng He petitioned for its restoration. It was destroyed during the Taiping Rebellion, and its components were moved to the Prince's Mansion. It was rebuilt in 1877 (the 3rd year of the Guangxu reign) and renovated in 1879 (the 5th year of the Guangxu reign) to form its current layout.



July, Liaoning, 1 mosque

Suizhong Mosque: Starting in the 18th century, more than ten families of Hui Muslims, including the Zhang, Ding, Li, and Jin families, moved to Suizhong from Hebei Province. In 1737 (the 2nd year of the Qianlong reign), the first mosque was built below the Kueixing Tower in the southeast of Suizhong city. In 1797 (the 3rd year of the Jiaqing reign), it was moved to its current location inside the West Gate.



August, Beijing, 2 mosques

Dongsi Mosque: The most worth-seeing part of Dongsi Mosque is the main hall built in 1447. The rear hall looks like a Chinese-style beamless hall from the outside, but inside it actually contains three brick domes. This is another way Chinese mosques localized the dome in the 15th century, following the example of the Phoenix Mosque in Hangzhou, where the dome was converted into a wooden pavilion during the Yuan Dynasty.



Huashi Mosque: First built in 1414 (the 12th year of the Ming Wanli reign), it is said to have been the residence of Chang Yuchun. It was renovated in the 41st year of the Kangxi reign and again during the Qianlong reign.



September, Shanxi, 1 mosque

Taiyuan Mosque: Located inside the South Gate on Beef Alley (Niurou Xiang). The main prayer hall and the Shengxin Tower (call to prayer tower, or bangkelou) are Ming Dynasty structures. This matches the time when Taiyuan city took its final shape and Hui Muslims officially settled in the city.



14 sites in Azerbaijan in September

Baku Palace Mosque: Built between 1441 and 1442 by order of the Shirvanshah king, Khalilullah I. In 1723, the army of Tsar Peter I shelled Baku from the Caspian Sea, damaging the northeast facade. The minaret was hit by artillery fire in 1918. The main prayer hall is very small and is generally used only by people from the palace or the immediate neighborhood.



Muhammad Mosque: Built in 1078-1079, it is the oldest surviving religious building in Azerbaijan. According to the Kufic Arabic inscription on the north wall, the mosque was built by Muhammad ibn Abu Bakr. Research shows the mosque was built on the site of a Zoroastrian fire mosque, and Muhammad was the mayor of Baku at the time.



Takyeh Mosque: A 13th-century Sufi mosque that served as a place for Sufi practitioners to study and rest.



Khidir Mosque: Built in 1301. Archaeological excavations in 1988 revealed that this mosque was built on the site of a Zoroastrian mosque.



Mirza Ahmad Mosque: Built in 1345. The wall at the entrance is carved with scripture and the architect's name. It is currently closed due to its dilapidated state.



Chin Mosque: Stone carvings at the top of the entrance show it was built between 1375 and 1376, with repairs made between 1772 and 1773.



Molla Ahmad Mosque: Built in the early 14th century by the famous architect Mahmud ibn Sad of the Shirvan-Absheron school. It is a typical example of a small community mosque from the Shirvanshah dynasty.



Sheikh Ibrahim Mosque: Built by Haji Amirshah ibn Yagub between 1415 and 1416. Baku was ruled at the time by the 33rd Shirvanshah king, Ibrahim I (reigned 1382-1417), which is why it is also called the Sheikh Ibrahim Mosque. In the 19th century, the mosque's facade was divided into three sections and windows were added.



Juma Mosque: The main mosque in Baku's Old City. Inscriptions on the mosque walls show that Amir Sharaf al-Din Mahmud renovated it in 1309. The current main prayer hall was funded by Baku merchant Haji Shikhlali Dadashov in 1899, blending traditional styles with European architecture.



Sayyid Yahya Murtuza Mosque: Built in the early 17th century by Sayyid Yahya Murtuza himself. He was a famous local imam and was buried here after his passing. During the Soviet era, it became a carpenter's workshop. Religious activities resumed in the 1990s, and it is now affiliated with the Juma Mosque.



Haji Bani Mosque: Built in the 16th century by the architect Haji Bani. A women's prayer hall and windows were added during renovations in 1902-1903.



Baba Kuhi Bakuvi Mosque: Located north of the Maiden Tower and thought to date back to the 9th or 10th century. Archaeologist Farhad Ibrahimov excavated the site between 1990 and 1993, and the mihrab niche was unearthed in 1998.



Haji Heybat Mosque: Built in 1791 by the architect Haji Heybat Amir Ali oghlu. It is a small community mosque.



Məktəb Mosque: Built between 1646 and 1647, it sits right next to the Maiden Tower.



38 mosques in Turkey in October.

Konya Iplikci Mosque: Ordered in 1201 by the Seljuk vizier Shams al-Din Altun Aba, it was built by the architect Abu al-Fazi Abd al-Jabbar from Tabriz, Iran. This is key evidence of Persian craftsmen directly influencing Seljuk architecture. This building went through a series of renovations during the Karamanid dynasty, the Ottoman Empire, and modern times. Today, the original mosaic tiles on the mihrab inside the hall have been replaced by marble, but the parts at the bottom covered by carpets are still original pieces from the Seljuk period.



Konya Alaeddin Mosque: It was rebuilt on top of a Christian church shortly after the Seljuks occupied Konya in the late 11th century, and many of its components were taken directly from nearby Byzantine buildings. The earliest surviving inscription dates back to the reign of the Seljuk Sultan of Rum, Mesud I (reigned 1116–1156). The mosque's ebony minbar has an inscription from 1155, and the tiles on the mosque's mihrab and dome should have been built in the same period.



Konya Sahib Ata Mosque: Built by Sahib Ata Fahreddin Ali, the architect was Keluk bin Abdullah. Sahib Ata was a key official in the court of the Seljuk Sultanate of Rum from the 1250s until his death in 1288, and he even held great power in the sultanate after 1277.



Bursa Orhan Mosque: This was the first mosque in Bursa. It was built in 1339 by the second Ottoman ruler, Orhan (reigned 1324-1362). It was burned by the Karamanid dynasty in 1413, rebuilt by Sultan Mehmed I (reigned 1379-1421) in 1417, and repaired again after being damaged by an earthquake in 1855.



Bursa Grand Mosque (Ulu Cami): This is the largest mosque in Bursa and the largest of the multi-domed Ottoman mosques. This mosque consists of 20 domes and two minarets and is known as a masterpiece of early Ottoman architecture. It was built between 1396 and 1399 by the fourth Ottoman Sultan, Bayezid I (reigned 1389-1402), to celebrate the famous Battle of Nicopolis. The architect is said to be Ali Neccar.



Bursa Hüdavendigar Mosque: Also called the Murad I Mosque, it was built by Sultan Murad I between 1363 and 1366. It is a classic early Ottoman T-shaped mosque. Its biggest feature is that the madrasa is located on the floor above the prayer hall. Because many Byzantine craftsmen participated in its construction, the mosque features Byzantine-style brickwork and column capitals. At the same time, this is the only Ottoman mosque with two porches.



Bursa Lightning Mosque (Yıldırım Bayezid Mosque): Also called the Lightning Bayezid Mosque, it was ordered by Sultan Bayezid I between 1390 and 1395. It underwent major repairs after the 1855 earthquake. It is the only early Ottoman mosque in Bursa built entirely of stone, without using any bricks. the Lightning Mosque is the first mosque to feature a Bursa arch structure. This flat arch is located between the main hall and the gate, supporting two large domes.



Bursa Green Mosque (Yeşil Cami): Also called the Mehmed I Mosque, it was built by Sultan Mehmed I between 1414 and 1419. It is a masterpiece by the famous early 15th-century Ottoman architect İvaz Pasha. The stone carvings on the gate are considered the pinnacle of early Ottoman architecture. Due to the death of Mehmed I, the narthex of the mosque was never finished.



Bursa Muradiye Mosque: Also called the Murad II Mosque, it was built by Sultan Murad II between 1425 and 1426. The mosque is an early Ottoman T-shaped mosque. The main hall has two domes, and each wing has a small dome. The interior of the mosque is decorated with blue-green and dark blue hexagonal tiles.



Edirne Old Mosque (Eski Cami): In 1413, Prince Mehmed was crowned Sultan Mehmed I in Edirne, and he officially completed the construction of this mosque the following year. This mosque is the oldest one still standing in Edirne, so it is called the Old Mosque (Eski Cami). The Old Mosque is one of the last multi-domed mosques to use the early Ottoman Seljuk style, featuring nine central domes in total. Compared to earlier Seljuk multi-domed mosques, the domes here have a noticeably larger diameter, showing that the Ottomans were starting to move past their early phase.



Edirne Muradiye Mosque: This is a small T-shaped mosque on a hill north of Edirne, built in 1436 by order of the sixth Ottoman Sultan, Murad II (reigned 1421-1444). This site was originally part of a Sufi Mevlevi complex before it was converted into a mosque.



Edirne Three-Balcony Mosque (Üç Şerefeli Camii): This is known as a major landmark that started a new era in Ottoman architecture, being the first Ottoman mosque with a central dome and the first to feature a courtyard. The mosque was started in 1438 by the sixth Ottoman Sultan, Murad II (reigned 1421-1444), and finished in 1447.



Edirne Kasım Paşa Mosque: This was built in 1479 by order of Kasım Paşa. Kasım Paşa was a famous Ottoman general who served as the commander of Rumelia, the European part of the Ottoman Empire. The mosque closed after 1950 due to the construction of a dam, and it has been damaged by floods ever since, making it the most wild and untamed early Ottoman mosque in Edirne.



Edirne Sultan Bayezid II Mosque: Located on the north bank of the Tunca River (Sadun River) in the northwest suburbs of Edirne, it was built by order of the eighth Ottoman Sultan, Bayezid II (reigned 1481-1512).



Istanbul Atik Ali Pasha Mosque: Built in 1496 by Atik Ali Pasha, the Grand Vizier to Ottoman Sultan Bayezid II, it is located south of the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul.



Istanbul Selim I Mosque: Built in 1520 by Ottoman Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent to honor his father, Sultan Selim I (reigned 1512-1520), and completed in 1527, it is the third imperial mosque built by the Ottoman dynasty in Istanbul.



Istanbul Mihrimah Sultan Mosque: Built between 1543 and 1548, it is one of the most famous landmarks in the Üsküdar district and the second complex by Mimar Sinan still standing in Istanbul. It is the first semi-domed mosque designed by Mimar Sinan.



Istanbul Prince Mosque (Şehzade Mosque): Located on the third hill of Istanbul's old city and built between 1543 and 1548, it is considered Mimar Sinan's most important early work and his first masterpiece. It is the second semi-domed mosque designed by Mimar Sinan, consisting of one main dome and four semi-domes. This was both an improvement on Sinan's previous work, the Mihrimah Sultan Mosque with its three semi-domes, and a new interpretation of earlier designs like the Fatih Mosque (1471) and the Bayezid II Mosque (1506). This design separates the four pillars supporting the central dome, creating a more stunning visual effect.



Istanbul Hadım Ibrahim Pasha Mosque: Built in 1551, it was commissioned by the Vizier Ibrahim Pasha, known as the Eunuch (Hadım), and built by Mimar Sinan. It belongs to the first phase of Mimar Sinan's single-dome mosque designs. In this phase, Sinan used eight buttresses to support the main dome, a design that also foreshadowed his next phase of octagonal dome structures.



Istanbul Sinan Pasha Mosque: Completed in 1555 and commissioned by Sinan Pasha, it is Mimar Sinan's reinterpretation of the famous Three-Balcony Mosque (Üç Şerefeli Camii) in Edirne, and is therefore known as the smaller version of the Three-Balcony Mosque.



Istanbul Süleymaniye Mosque: Commissioned by Ottoman Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent and built by Mimar Sinan, it sits on the third hill of Istanbul and is a key part of the old city's skyline. Construction took seven years from 1550 to 1557, though it was not officially finished until 1558. This is the largest square-based, semi-domed mosque in the career of architect Mimar Sinan, with a main dome 53 meters high, which was the tallest in the Ottoman Empire at the time.



Sokollu Mehmed Pasha Mosque in Istanbul: Commissioned by Grand Vizier Sokollu Mehmed Pasha and his wife İsmihan Sultan, it was built by Mimar Sinan between 1567 and 1572 and is famous for its beautiful Iznik tiles inside.



Mihrimah Sultan Mosque in Istanbul: Built by Mimar Sinan between 1563 and 1570, commissioned by Mihrimah Sultan, the daughter of Suleiman the Magnificent. The complex sits on the sixth hill inside the northwest walls of Istanbul, which is the highest point of the old city. The structure of the mosque is considered the most advanced type of single-dome mosque from that period. The 35-meter-high dome is supported by four piers, with four arches and four pendentives forming a tower-like structure. Four polygonal piers protrude on the outside but are almost invisible from the inside, creating a shape like a neatly cut crystal.



Kara Ahmed Pasha Mosque in Istanbul: Commissioned by Kara Ahmed Pasha and built by Mimar Sinan, it was finally completed in 1572. It is the last imperial building in Istanbul to use dry cord (cuerda seca) tiles for decoration.



Mimar Sinan Mosque in Istanbul: Built by Mimar Sinan for himself in 1573, it was destroyed by fire in 1918, and soon after the walls collapsed, leaving only a 10-meter-high minaret.



Sokollu Mehmed Pasha Mosque in Istanbul: Commissioned in 1578 by Ottoman Grand Vizier Sokollu Mehmed Pasha (in office 1565-1579) and built by Mimar Sinan, Sinan continued the octagonal support system he used in his masterpiece, the Selimiye Mosque, and added a small dome at each corner. Additionally, the front porch of the mosque is completely enclosed and connected to the main hall, which is very unique among Sinan's works.



Kılıç Ali Pasha Mosque in Istanbul: Commissioned by Ottoman Admiral Kılıç Ali Pasha and built by Mimar Sinan between 1578 and 1580. The mosque has a central area surrounded by galleries on three sides, with the center and side areas separated, which is very similar to the structure of the Hagia Sophia and different from other classic Ottoman mosque architecture of the same period.



Şemsi Pasha Mosque in Istanbul: Built in 1581 by Mimar Sinan for the Ottoman Grand Vizier (Vezir-i Azam) Şemsi Pasha, it is the smallest complex Sinan ever built and is a famous example in Istanbul of how human architecture can blend perfectly with the natural landscape. Collapse Read »

Halal Food Guide Tianjin: Syrian, Yemeni, Tunisian and Algerian Restaurants

Reposted from the web

Summary: This Tianjin food article follows Arabic restaurants representing Syrian, Yemeni, Tunisian, and Algerian cooking. It preserves the original restaurant details, dishes, photos, and travel observations while presenting the account in natural English.

Syrian food: Al-Andalus Restaurant.

We had Levantine food at Al-Andalus Restaurant in the Sunac Center, Nankai District. The owner is Syrian. Al-Andalus was the name Arabs used for the Iberian Peninsula during the Middle Ages. In the 8th century, under the Umayyad dynasty, it was a famous center for economy, culture, academics, and education, serving as a key bridge for cultural and scientific exchange between East and West.

We ordered the four-person feast set. It included lentil soup, cream of mushroom soup, a trio of hummus, lamb samosa (samosa), chicken shawarma (shawarma), four-season pizza, mixed grilled meats, black tea, and a crispy salad. We also ordered yogurt separately. Overall, the food is very authentic. It offers better value than Arab restaurants in Beijing, and you do not have to wait in line. Their yogurt is especially good. It has a rich, tangy milk flavor that beats many Arab restaurants in Beijing. The only downside is that the samosa pastry is a bit thick, more like the South Asian version than the thin-crust Levantine style.

























Yemeni food: Socotra.

Socotra is an island in the Arabian Sea, southeast of Yemen. In the Ming Dynasty, the Zheng He navigation charts called it Sugudala. Socotra Island became a World Natural Heritage site in 2008 and is famous for its dragon blood trees. The Socotra restaurant logo is a dragon blood tree, and photos of the trees hang in the shop.

We ordered the specialty soup, chicken lentil soup, lamb zurbian (zurbian) rice, mushakkal (mushakkal) stir-fried vegetables, fahsa (fahsa) beef stew, banana mango juice, and khubz (khubz) flatbread. Zurbian rice is similar to Indian biryani, as both are stir-fried with various spices. Their lamb is grilled and very fragrant, but we found the rice a bit dry. It also contained small bone fragments, so be careful if feeding children.

When visiting a Yemeni restaurant, you must try the classic Yemeni dish, fahsa beef stew. Fahsa is usually made with lamb, but they use beef. The meat is stewed until very tender, first in a large vat and then finished in a small pot. Besides ginger, garlic, and cumin, the stew requires a spice called fenugreek (hulbah). Fenugreek is what people in Northwest China often call xiangdouzi (bitter beans). Northwesterners dry the leaves and grind them into powder to steam buns, while Yemenis grind the seeds to stew meat. Fenugreek seeds expand in water and easily foam up when stirred in a bowl.

The classic pairing for fahsa is mulawah (mulawah) Yemeni bread, but they require you to order it in advance. We could only get khubz flatbread at the restaurant. Khubz is essentially the pita bread found in Levantine cuisine. Their version was quite hard and, honestly, not very tasty.



















Algerian tea and snacks: Lyn's Healthy Bakeshop.

We had Algerian afternoon tea at Lyn's Healthy Bakeshop on Chifeng Road in Tianjin. Chifeng Road is in the former French Concession area. There are many small Western-style buildings here, along with all kinds of little restaurants.

The owner is from Algeria and opened a small shop here for tea and desserts. It is likely the first Algerian restaurant in China. It is impressive to see Tianjin leading the way in international dining again!

You can order à la carte or choose an afternoon tea set. They serve both traditional Algerian desserts and Western pastries. They use maple syrup instead of white sugar for a healthier approach. This is probably the least sweet Arabic dessert shop I have ever visited!

We drank Algerian mint tea and an Algerian orange blossom lemonade called Sherbet Mazhar. The mint tea is brewed to order, so it takes a while. It has a very strong aroma, but since it is freshly brewed, you cannot get refills. Orange blossom water is definitely a signature Algerian drink, especially classic at wedding feasts in northern Algeria. This drink is made from orange blossom water distilled from bitter orange blossoms, mixed with syrup and water. It is very refreshing in the summer.

We ate Algerian baklava (Baklawa), apple pie, milk pudding (M'halbi), and cheesecake. Suleiman loved the cheesecake the most. Baklava was introduced to Algeria from Turkey during the Ottoman period. The Algerian version adds crushed almonds and orange blossom water, so the taste is different from the Turkish one.

Milk pudding (M'halbi) is a classic Middle Eastern dessert for breaking the fast and is most popular during Ramadan. The name M'halbi comes from Al-Muhallab, a governor of Khorasan during the Umayyad Caliphate. Legend says he once had a stomachache, and his doctor fed him rice flour cooked with milk and sugar. He liked it so much that he named the dessert after himself.

Finally, the food here is excellent, though the decor is a bit simple. If they could highlight the Algerian theme more, this place would definitely become a new trendy spot in Tianjin.



















Tunisian food: Sidi Bou Said.

There is a Tunisian restaurant called Sidi Bou Said (Blue and White Town) in Aocheng Plaza where you can eat Tunisian food. The shop is small. The owner is Chinese, and the head chef is Tunisian. Since there is only one chef, service might be slow when it is busy. It is best to call ahead and book a table. We were the only table when we went, so our meal went quite smoothly.

The name Sidi Bou Said comes from a small Mediterranean town northeast of Tunis. It is named after the famous Sufi saint Abu Said al-Baji, who is buried there. In the 1920s, the French painter and musician Baron Rodolphe d'Erlanger introduced the blue and white color scheme, turning it into a famous tourist destination in Tunisia.

We ordered the 3-4 person set, which included tuna fried triangles (Brick), North African eggs (Shakshouka), lamb stew, pasta with meat sauce, and a dessert called Kunafa. They served mint tea first, which is very Tunisian. Then they brought the Brick. It is a classic Tunisian snack filled with tuna, minced meat, a raw egg, and harissa chili paste, wrapped in a very thin pastry called Malsouka. The North African eggs are made with eggs, tomatoes, olive oil, harissa, and onions, then sprinkled with cumin and chili powder. Tomatoes were not actually introduced to Tunisia from the Middle East until the late Ottoman period. Turkey has an appetizer with the same name, shakshuka (Şakşuka), but it does not contain eggs.

Their lamb leg is stewed until very tender and falls right off the bone, which is perfect for children. The lamb leg sits on a bed of mashed potatoes, which are soft and delicious. The pasta uses an Italian meat sauce (Bolognese), but it seems to be made with hand-rolled noodles. It ends up tasting a lot like the dry meat sauce noodles (saozi mian) eaten by Hui Muslims in Xinjiang. Their kunafa (kunafa) is delicious, and it is a low-sugar version that suits the Chinese palate. Kunafa appears in One Thousand and One Nights, and legend says it was invented by an Arab caliph for breaking the fast.

















Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: This Tianjin food article follows Arabic restaurants representing Syrian, Yemeni, Tunisian, and Algerian cooking. It preserves the original restaurant details, dishes, photos, and travel observations while presenting the account in natural English.

Syrian food: Al-Andalus Restaurant.

We had Levantine food at Al-Andalus Restaurant in the Sunac Center, Nankai District. The owner is Syrian. Al-Andalus was the name Arabs used for the Iberian Peninsula during the Middle Ages. In the 8th century, under the Umayyad dynasty, it was a famous center for economy, culture, academics, and education, serving as a key bridge for cultural and scientific exchange between East and West.

We ordered the four-person feast set. It included lentil soup, cream of mushroom soup, a trio of hummus, lamb samosa (samosa), chicken shawarma (shawarma), four-season pizza, mixed grilled meats, black tea, and a crispy salad. We also ordered yogurt separately. Overall, the food is very authentic. It offers better value than Arab restaurants in Beijing, and you do not have to wait in line. Their yogurt is especially good. It has a rich, tangy milk flavor that beats many Arab restaurants in Beijing. The only downside is that the samosa pastry is a bit thick, more like the South Asian version than the thin-crust Levantine style.

























Yemeni food: Socotra.

Socotra is an island in the Arabian Sea, southeast of Yemen. In the Ming Dynasty, the Zheng He navigation charts called it Sugudala. Socotra Island became a World Natural Heritage site in 2008 and is famous for its dragon blood trees. The Socotra restaurant logo is a dragon blood tree, and photos of the trees hang in the shop.

We ordered the specialty soup, chicken lentil soup, lamb zurbian (zurbian) rice, mushakkal (mushakkal) stir-fried vegetables, fahsa (fahsa) beef stew, banana mango juice, and khubz (khubz) flatbread. Zurbian rice is similar to Indian biryani, as both are stir-fried with various spices. Their lamb is grilled and very fragrant, but we found the rice a bit dry. It also contained small bone fragments, so be careful if feeding children.

When visiting a Yemeni restaurant, you must try the classic Yemeni dish, fahsa beef stew. Fahsa is usually made with lamb, but they use beef. The meat is stewed until very tender, first in a large vat and then finished in a small pot. Besides ginger, garlic, and cumin, the stew requires a spice called fenugreek (hulbah). Fenugreek is what people in Northwest China often call xiangdouzi (bitter beans). Northwesterners dry the leaves and grind them into powder to steam buns, while Yemenis grind the seeds to stew meat. Fenugreek seeds expand in water and easily foam up when stirred in a bowl.

The classic pairing for fahsa is mulawah (mulawah) Yemeni bread, but they require you to order it in advance. We could only get khubz flatbread at the restaurant. Khubz is essentially the pita bread found in Levantine cuisine. Their version was quite hard and, honestly, not very tasty.



















Algerian tea and snacks: Lyn's Healthy Bakeshop.

We had Algerian afternoon tea at Lyn's Healthy Bakeshop on Chifeng Road in Tianjin. Chifeng Road is in the former French Concession area. There are many small Western-style buildings here, along with all kinds of little restaurants.

The owner is from Algeria and opened a small shop here for tea and desserts. It is likely the first Algerian restaurant in China. It is impressive to see Tianjin leading the way in international dining again!

You can order à la carte or choose an afternoon tea set. They serve both traditional Algerian desserts and Western pastries. They use maple syrup instead of white sugar for a healthier approach. This is probably the least sweet Arabic dessert shop I have ever visited!

We drank Algerian mint tea and an Algerian orange blossom lemonade called Sherbet Mazhar. The mint tea is brewed to order, so it takes a while. It has a very strong aroma, but since it is freshly brewed, you cannot get refills. Orange blossom water is definitely a signature Algerian drink, especially classic at wedding feasts in northern Algeria. This drink is made from orange blossom water distilled from bitter orange blossoms, mixed with syrup and water. It is very refreshing in the summer.

We ate Algerian baklava (Baklawa), apple pie, milk pudding (M'halbi), and cheesecake. Suleiman loved the cheesecake the most. Baklava was introduced to Algeria from Turkey during the Ottoman period. The Algerian version adds crushed almonds and orange blossom water, so the taste is different from the Turkish one.

Milk pudding (M'halbi) is a classic Middle Eastern dessert for breaking the fast and is most popular during Ramadan. The name M'halbi comes from Al-Muhallab, a governor of Khorasan during the Umayyad Caliphate. Legend says he once had a stomachache, and his doctor fed him rice flour cooked with milk and sugar. He liked it so much that he named the dessert after himself.

Finally, the food here is excellent, though the decor is a bit simple. If they could highlight the Algerian theme more, this place would definitely become a new trendy spot in Tianjin.



















Tunisian food: Sidi Bou Said.

There is a Tunisian restaurant called Sidi Bou Said (Blue and White Town) in Aocheng Plaza where you can eat Tunisian food. The shop is small. The owner is Chinese, and the head chef is Tunisian. Since there is only one chef, service might be slow when it is busy. It is best to call ahead and book a table. We were the only table when we went, so our meal went quite smoothly.

The name Sidi Bou Said comes from a small Mediterranean town northeast of Tunis. It is named after the famous Sufi saint Abu Said al-Baji, who is buried there. In the 1920s, the French painter and musician Baron Rodolphe d'Erlanger introduced the blue and white color scheme, turning it into a famous tourist destination in Tunisia.

We ordered the 3-4 person set, which included tuna fried triangles (Brick), North African eggs (Shakshouka), lamb stew, pasta with meat sauce, and a dessert called Kunafa. They served mint tea first, which is very Tunisian. Then they brought the Brick. It is a classic Tunisian snack filled with tuna, minced meat, a raw egg, and harissa chili paste, wrapped in a very thin pastry called Malsouka. The North African eggs are made with eggs, tomatoes, olive oil, harissa, and onions, then sprinkled with cumin and chili powder. Tomatoes were not actually introduced to Tunisia from the Middle East until the late Ottoman period. Turkey has an appetizer with the same name, shakshuka (Şakşuka), but it does not contain eggs.

Their lamb leg is stewed until very tender and falls right off the bone, which is perfect for children. The lamb leg sits on a bed of mashed potatoes, which are soft and delicious. The pasta uses an Italian meat sauce (Bolognese), but it seems to be made with hand-rolled noodles. It ends up tasting a lot like the dry meat sauce noodles (saozi mian) eaten by Hui Muslims in Xinjiang. Their kunafa (kunafa) is delicious, and it is a low-sugar version that suits the Chinese palate. Kunafa appears in One Thousand and One Nights, and legend says it was invented by an Arab caliph for breaking the fast.

















Collapse Read »

Halal Food Guide Urumqi: Four Hui Muslim Banquet Restaurants and Local Dishes

Reposted from the web

Summary: This Urumqi food account introduces four Hui Muslim banquet restaurants and the dishes that shape local halal dining. The English version keeps the original restaurant names, photos, food details, and practical observations without adding outside claims.

I returned to Urumqi for a wedding and ate at four Hui Muslim restaurants. I am sharing my experience with you now.

Silk Road Rice Fragrance (Silu Mixiang) is a restaurant in the New District where Hui Muslims host guests. It has a large private room that can seat twenty people at two tables.

We started the meal with three-tier tea (sanpaotai), which includes goji berries, red dates, and rock sugar. Then the dishes arrived: spinach with chickpeas, cold-tossed beef shank, beef stew with vermicelli, dry-pot beef tripe, beef medley, sauced meat-stuffed tofu (jiasha), sweet platter (tianpanzi), stir-fried bean sprouts with chives, snowflake meatballs, stir-fried black and white lung, steamed opium fish, lamb with braised flatbread, sauced stuffed eggplant, and stir-fried mushrooms. This included traditional Hui Muslim banquet dishes like meat-stuffed tofu (jiasha) and sweet platter (tianpanzi), as well as newer banquet dishes that have become popular in Urumqi over the last few decades, such as snowflake meatballs and steamed opium fish. These dishes represent the current taste of Hui Muslim banquets in Urumqi.

















The Jinyue Loulan Banquet Hall in Anningqu Cultural Tourism Town has a great environment. It is very spacious, bright, and the banquet hall is huge.

Before the meal starts, they set out nine appetizer plates, usually filled with dried fruits, preserved fruits, candies, and small pieces of fruit. Then they clear the appetizer plates to officially start the meal, serving cold dishes first, followed by hot dishes, and finally the main courses. We ate cold-tossed beef, spinach with gluten, cold-tossed chicken, fern root noodles, stir-fried beef tripe, Dongxiang-style hand-grabbed lamb (shouzhuayangrou), yellow noodles with grilled meat, sweet platter (tianpanzi), vegetarian pilaf, flower-roll chicken, meat-stuffed tofu (jiasha), yellow-braised meat, steamed opium fish, and meatballs. Dishes at traditional Urumqi banquets are generally lighter than street food, with less chili and salt. The cold-tossed chicken is not made into spicy peppercorn chicken (jiaomaji), which actually suits the tastes of people from inland China better.



















Jinhaiwan is the most popular Hui Muslim banquet hall in the Dawan area of Urumqi. I held my own wedding here five years ago, and coming back now brings back many memories. The cold dishes at the banquet included spicy beef shank, cold-tossed chicken, blueberry yam, and mixed vegetable salad. Hot dishes included hand-grabbed lamb (shouzhuayangrou), yellow-braised beef, oil-seared meat, sauced meat-stuffed tofu (jiasha), yellow noodles with grilled meat, steamed sea bass, stir-fried meat with Awei mushrooms, red-braised meatballs, lotus root and lily stir-fry, and sweet platter (tianpanzi). The staples included thin-skinned buns (baopi baozi), oil towers (youtazi), pilaf with preserved fruits, and grilled flatbread. I was too busy to really eat at my own wedding, but this time I finally enjoyed a great meal.



















The next day, we went to Jiamei Banquet on Liyushan Road for the post-wedding meal (xiatang). We ate cold-tossed chicken, cold-tossed beef shank, oil-seared meat, spinach with gluten, braised meat-stuffed tofu (jiasha), oil towers (youtazi), stir-fried beef tripe, sweet platter (tianpanzi), hand-grabbed meat (shouzhuarou), yellow noodles with grilled meat, red-braised carp, yellow-braised meat, pearl meatballs, and soup. For the post-wedding meal, the restaurant also provides a bowl of minced meat noodles (saozimian). This place is the best among the Hui Muslim banquet restaurants I have tried in Urumqi. The lamb is the most tender and fresh, and the beef shank has the best texture and is the most flavorful. Their minced meat noodles (saozimian) are also delicious and very satisfying. However, they do not have as many tables, so they are used more for engagement parties or post-wedding meals, and are a bit small for a full wedding.

















Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: This Urumqi food account introduces four Hui Muslim banquet restaurants and the dishes that shape local halal dining. The English version keeps the original restaurant names, photos, food details, and practical observations without adding outside claims.

I returned to Urumqi for a wedding and ate at four Hui Muslim restaurants. I am sharing my experience with you now.

Silk Road Rice Fragrance (Silu Mixiang) is a restaurant in the New District where Hui Muslims host guests. It has a large private room that can seat twenty people at two tables.

We started the meal with three-tier tea (sanpaotai), which includes goji berries, red dates, and rock sugar. Then the dishes arrived: spinach with chickpeas, cold-tossed beef shank, beef stew with vermicelli, dry-pot beef tripe, beef medley, sauced meat-stuffed tofu (jiasha), sweet platter (tianpanzi), stir-fried bean sprouts with chives, snowflake meatballs, stir-fried black and white lung, steamed opium fish, lamb with braised flatbread, sauced stuffed eggplant, and stir-fried mushrooms. This included traditional Hui Muslim banquet dishes like meat-stuffed tofu (jiasha) and sweet platter (tianpanzi), as well as newer banquet dishes that have become popular in Urumqi over the last few decades, such as snowflake meatballs and steamed opium fish. These dishes represent the current taste of Hui Muslim banquets in Urumqi.

















The Jinyue Loulan Banquet Hall in Anningqu Cultural Tourism Town has a great environment. It is very spacious, bright, and the banquet hall is huge.

Before the meal starts, they set out nine appetizer plates, usually filled with dried fruits, preserved fruits, candies, and small pieces of fruit. Then they clear the appetizer plates to officially start the meal, serving cold dishes first, followed by hot dishes, and finally the main courses. We ate cold-tossed beef, spinach with gluten, cold-tossed chicken, fern root noodles, stir-fried beef tripe, Dongxiang-style hand-grabbed lamb (shouzhuayangrou), yellow noodles with grilled meat, sweet platter (tianpanzi), vegetarian pilaf, flower-roll chicken, meat-stuffed tofu (jiasha), yellow-braised meat, steamed opium fish, and meatballs. Dishes at traditional Urumqi banquets are generally lighter than street food, with less chili and salt. The cold-tossed chicken is not made into spicy peppercorn chicken (jiaomaji), which actually suits the tastes of people from inland China better.



















Jinhaiwan is the most popular Hui Muslim banquet hall in the Dawan area of Urumqi. I held my own wedding here five years ago, and coming back now brings back many memories. The cold dishes at the banquet included spicy beef shank, cold-tossed chicken, blueberry yam, and mixed vegetable salad. Hot dishes included hand-grabbed lamb (shouzhuayangrou), yellow-braised beef, oil-seared meat, sauced meat-stuffed tofu (jiasha), yellow noodles with grilled meat, steamed sea bass, stir-fried meat with Awei mushrooms, red-braised meatballs, lotus root and lily stir-fry, and sweet platter (tianpanzi). The staples included thin-skinned buns (baopi baozi), oil towers (youtazi), pilaf with preserved fruits, and grilled flatbread. I was too busy to really eat at my own wedding, but this time I finally enjoyed a great meal.



















The next day, we went to Jiamei Banquet on Liyushan Road for the post-wedding meal (xiatang). We ate cold-tossed chicken, cold-tossed beef shank, oil-seared meat, spinach with gluten, braised meat-stuffed tofu (jiasha), oil towers (youtazi), stir-fried beef tripe, sweet platter (tianpanzi), hand-grabbed meat (shouzhuarou), yellow noodles with grilled meat, red-braised carp, yellow-braised meat, pearl meatballs, and soup. For the post-wedding meal, the restaurant also provides a bowl of minced meat noodles (saozimian). This place is the best among the Hui Muslim banquet restaurants I have tried in Urumqi. The lamb is the most tender and fresh, and the beef shank has the best texture and is the most flavorful. Their minced meat noodles (saozimian) are also delicious and very satisfying. However, they do not have as many tables, so they are used more for engagement parties or post-wedding meals, and are a bit small for a full wedding.

















Collapse Read »

Muslim History Guide Malaysia Sabah: Islamic Civilization Museum and Heritage

Reposted from the web

Summary: This article visits the Sabah Islamic Civilization Museum in Malaysia, with a focus on regional Muslim history, exhibition displays, and local cultural context. It keeps the original museum details, photographs, artifact notes, and travel observations for readers interested in Islamic heritage in Sabah.

The Sabah Islamic Civilization Museum opened in 2002. It has a small collection and is not well-known, but it is special because it holds unique Islamic cultural artifacts from the Malay Archipelago that you cannot see in other museums.





This is a wooden prayer gong (kentung) made in 1918 by the Sambas Sultanate in West Kalimantan, Indonesia. It is a traditional instrument used to signal the call to prayer.

The Sambas Malays live on the northwest coast of Borneo, right next to the Malaysian state of Sabah. The Sambas Malays founded the Sambas Sultanate in 1675. It became part of Indonesia in 1956, and the Sultan of Sambas still lives in the palace today. The Sambas Malays are mainly Sufi. Their rituals combine features of the Qadiriyya and Naqshbandiyya orders and are famous for their unique chanting style.











This is a manuscript of scripture from Sulawesi, Indonesia, written on date palm leaves and bound in goatskin. It is over a hundred years old. It was donated to the Sabah Islamic Civilization Museum in 2015 by Tuan Hj. Abdullah Abas, a religious teacher from Kinarut, Sabah, Malaysia.







This is a traditional Indonesian wooden chest carved with scripture, used for storing clothes. This type of wood carving is found in several Islamic museums in Malaysia and is a very distinctive piece of Islamic craft.

























This is a bridal curtain used by the Bajau (Sama) people, a sea-faring group living on the west coast of Sabah, Malaysia, in Kota Belud.









This is a porcelain plate with scripture from the 1930s, acquired by the museum in 2005. Malay people usually display this kind of porcelain plate in a cabinet as a decoration.



These scripture-inscribed ceramics were brought to Sabah through trade and include pieces from both China and Europe. Under the rule of the Sultanate of Brunei, Sabah had very close trade ties with the Qing Dynasty, Spain, the Netherlands, and other countries.

















This is a protective vest (dua vest) worn by indigenous soldiers in Sabah during the anti-British resistance led by Mat Salleh between 1894 and 1905.

The resistance leader Mat Salleh, whose real name was Datuk Muhammad Salleh, was an indigenous leader in Sabah. In 1881, the British took control of Sabah by establishing the North Borneo Chartered Company. Mat Salleh felt this violated the rights of the indigenous people and refused to recognize the company. In 1895, after negotiations with the company failed, Mat Salleh was declared a wanted man. He immediately built a fortress to openly resist the British and successfully launched several attacks. He died in battle in 1900, and his followers continued to fight until they were finally defeated in 1905.









This is a decorative wooden frame made in 1918, featuring scripture carvings and traditional embroidery in the center.



These are wooden grave markers from the Semporna region. This type of wooden grave marker is unique to the Semporna area and is carved with floral patterns around the edges.







This is a century-old bas-relief bronze plaque featuring the Basmala.





This is a prayer drum (beduk) made of palm wood and cowhide. It is usually placed in front of the main hall or at the entrance of a mosque, which is why many traditional mosques in Southeast Asia do not have minarets.





There are many wavy-bladed daggers (keris) in museums across Malaysia and Indonesia, but very few have a clear record of their origin. The Museum of Islamic Civilization in Sabah displays a sword called Pedang Khusus. Palace guards in the Tidung Kingdom on Tarakan Island off the east coast of Borneo wore this gold-made, highly detailed weapon.









The second type is called Sundang, a wavy-bladed dagger (keris) with blood grooves used by the Sulu people. The handle of the Sundang is cylindrical, which keeps it from slipping out of your hand during use.





Woodcarver Mba Hj. Edie Ifa from Jepara, Java, Indonesia, worked with students from a nearby Islamic school (madrasa) to carve a pair of scripture-inscribed door panels from a century-old teak log.



A wooden tombstone from the Bajau people of Semporna, with the top carved into the shape of a hat.



A hand-copied Persian scripture from 1796.









A scripture stand from Qom, Iran, dating back to the 18th century.



Tiles from the Ilkhanate period, dating to the 13th or 14th century.



A copper bowl from the Mamluk period in Egypt.



Two sets of cloisonné (jingtailan) altar vases and incense burners. One set likely traveled from Hong Kong to Malaysia during the era of export-oriented production.









Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: This article visits the Sabah Islamic Civilization Museum in Malaysia, with a focus on regional Muslim history, exhibition displays, and local cultural context. It keeps the original museum details, photographs, artifact notes, and travel observations for readers interested in Islamic heritage in Sabah.

The Sabah Islamic Civilization Museum opened in 2002. It has a small collection and is not well-known, but it is special because it holds unique Islamic cultural artifacts from the Malay Archipelago that you cannot see in other museums.





This is a wooden prayer gong (kentung) made in 1918 by the Sambas Sultanate in West Kalimantan, Indonesia. It is a traditional instrument used to signal the call to prayer.

The Sambas Malays live on the northwest coast of Borneo, right next to the Malaysian state of Sabah. The Sambas Malays founded the Sambas Sultanate in 1675. It became part of Indonesia in 1956, and the Sultan of Sambas still lives in the palace today. The Sambas Malays are mainly Sufi. Their rituals combine features of the Qadiriyya and Naqshbandiyya orders and are famous for their unique chanting style.











This is a manuscript of scripture from Sulawesi, Indonesia, written on date palm leaves and bound in goatskin. It is over a hundred years old. It was donated to the Sabah Islamic Civilization Museum in 2015 by Tuan Hj. Abdullah Abas, a religious teacher from Kinarut, Sabah, Malaysia.







This is a traditional Indonesian wooden chest carved with scripture, used for storing clothes. This type of wood carving is found in several Islamic museums in Malaysia and is a very distinctive piece of Islamic craft.

























This is a bridal curtain used by the Bajau (Sama) people, a sea-faring group living on the west coast of Sabah, Malaysia, in Kota Belud.









This is a porcelain plate with scripture from the 1930s, acquired by the museum in 2005. Malay people usually display this kind of porcelain plate in a cabinet as a decoration.



These scripture-inscribed ceramics were brought to Sabah through trade and include pieces from both China and Europe. Under the rule of the Sultanate of Brunei, Sabah had very close trade ties with the Qing Dynasty, Spain, the Netherlands, and other countries.

















This is a protective vest (dua vest) worn by indigenous soldiers in Sabah during the anti-British resistance led by Mat Salleh between 1894 and 1905.

The resistance leader Mat Salleh, whose real name was Datuk Muhammad Salleh, was an indigenous leader in Sabah. In 1881, the British took control of Sabah by establishing the North Borneo Chartered Company. Mat Salleh felt this violated the rights of the indigenous people and refused to recognize the company. In 1895, after negotiations with the company failed, Mat Salleh was declared a wanted man. He immediately built a fortress to openly resist the British and successfully launched several attacks. He died in battle in 1900, and his followers continued to fight until they were finally defeated in 1905.









This is a decorative wooden frame made in 1918, featuring scripture carvings and traditional embroidery in the center.



These are wooden grave markers from the Semporna region. This type of wooden grave marker is unique to the Semporna area and is carved with floral patterns around the edges.







This is a century-old bas-relief bronze plaque featuring the Basmala.





This is a prayer drum (beduk) made of palm wood and cowhide. It is usually placed in front of the main hall or at the entrance of a mosque, which is why many traditional mosques in Southeast Asia do not have minarets.





There are many wavy-bladed daggers (keris) in museums across Malaysia and Indonesia, but very few have a clear record of their origin. The Museum of Islamic Civilization in Sabah displays a sword called Pedang Khusus. Palace guards in the Tidung Kingdom on Tarakan Island off the east coast of Borneo wore this gold-made, highly detailed weapon.









The second type is called Sundang, a wavy-bladed dagger (keris) with blood grooves used by the Sulu people. The handle of the Sundang is cylindrical, which keeps it from slipping out of your hand during use.





Woodcarver Mba Hj. Edie Ifa from Jepara, Java, Indonesia, worked with students from a nearby Islamic school (madrasa) to carve a pair of scripture-inscribed door panels from a century-old teak log.



A wooden tombstone from the Bajau people of Semporna, with the top carved into the shape of a hat.



A hand-copied Persian scripture from 1796.









A scripture stand from Qom, Iran, dating back to the 18th century.



Tiles from the Ilkhanate period, dating to the 13th or 14th century.



A copper bowl from the Mamluk period in Egypt.



Two sets of cloisonné (jingtailan) altar vases and incense burners. One set likely traveled from Hong Kong to Malaysia during the era of export-oriented production.









Collapse Read »

Muslim Travel Guide Tunisia Kairouan: Great Mosque, Jumu'ah and Islamic Heritage (Part 1)

Reposted from the web

Summary: This first part follows a visit to the Great Mosque of Kairouan for Jumu'ah in one of Tunisia's most important Islamic cities. It keeps the original prayer experience, mosque history, photographs, and travel details for readers interested in Muslim heritage in North Africa.

On Friday, we left from the Louage station south of Sousse and reached Kairouan, the most important ancient city in Tunisia, in just one hour. The Louage station in Kairouan is on the west side of the city, but you can ask the driver to drop you off right at the gate of the Great Mosque of Kairouan.

When we arrived at the Great Mosque at twelve o'clock, it was already closed. A young man at the gate told us that other mosques in Kairouan hold Jumu'ah prayer at one o'clock, but only the Great Mosque holds it at three, so he suggested we come back later.

We used this time to look at the exterior of the mosque. The Great Mosque of Kairouan is the oldest and most spectacular Jumu'ah mosque in Tunisia. It was first built in 670 by order of Uqba ibn Nafi, a general of the Arab Umayyad Caliphate. It was destroyed by Christian Berbers in 690 and rebuilt by the Umayyad Caliphate in 703. As the Arab population in Tunisia grew, the number of Muslims in Kairouan increased. The Great Mosque was rebuilt and renovated many times between 724-728, 774, 836, 862-863, and 875, finally taking its current form in the 9th century.

The Great Mosque is a huge, irregular quadrilateral with a perimeter of 405 meters, looking like a fortress from the outside. The outer walls are 1.9 meters thick and built from stone, rubble, and bricks. Because the ground is quite soft, many buttresses were built on the outer walls to increase stability.

The Great Mosque has nine gates, some of which have porches and spiral-shaped domes. Bab Lalla Rihana on the southeast side was built in 1293 during the Hafsid dynasty. It features a horseshoe arch and ancient stone columns that blend perfectly with the 9th-century walls.



















While waiting for Jumu'ah, we had lunch at El Brija Restaurant, located on the city wall next to the Great Mosque. The atmosphere and service were both good, and they serve traditional Tunisian food. I recommend eating here when visiting the Great Mosque.

We ordered a traditional appetizer platter and a mixed couscous stew. When eating at a proper restaurant in Tunisia, you really only need to order the main course, as most places provide side dishes and bread.

Our appetizer platter included Tunisian salad, Houria carrot salad, and Mechouia green pepper salad. We ate these three dishes almost every day in Tunisia. Tunisian salad is made of diced cucumbers, tomatoes, and onions mixed with olive oil, topped with boiled eggs and tuna. Mechouia salad contains green peppers, tomatoes, onions, garlic, and more. Tunisians love it, and it is rich in vitamins and very healthy. The couscous stew was very rich, containing lamb, Merguez sausage, chicken, beef, dried fruits, and preserved fruits. The Merguez sausage is seasoned with cumin and chili, making it very flavorful.

After the meal, we were served mint tea and Makroudh dessert. Makroudh is a classic North African Maghreb snack for breaking the fast. It is made of semolina on the outside, filled with date paste and dried fruits, then baked and soaked in syrup.



















We returned to the Great Mosque after two o'clock, and people were already entering the prayer hall. Once inside the courtyard, the first thing you see is the oldest minaret (bangke ta) still in existence today. The minaret of the Great Mosque of Kairouan was built between the 8th and 9th centuries. The current structure mostly dates back to 836. It is one of the three most important early minarets, alongside the spiral minaret of the Great Mosque of Samarra in Iraq, built between 848 and 852, and the spiral minaret of the Abu Dulaf Mosque in Iraq, built in 859. These three served as models for later minarets across Andalusia and the Maghreb.

There were no minarets during the time of the Prophet and the four Caliphs. People called for prayer (adhan) from the mosque entrance or the roof. Platforms for calling the adhan appeared during the Umayyad dynasty in the 7th century, but true minarets did not emerge until the Abbasid dynasty in the 8th century. There is no final conclusion on the origin of the minaret. Some say it mimics the towers of Syrian churches, while others suggest it was inspired by the Lighthouse of Alexandria or Mesopotamian ziggurats. Four towers were built during the reconstruction of the Sacred Mosque in Mecca in the late 8th century, but they have not survived. The earliest surviving minarets are the one at the Great Mosque of Kairouan and the two in Iraq. The Bride's Minaret at the Umayyad Mosque in Damascus may also date to the 9th century, but there is no clear record of this.

The minaret of the Great Mosque of Kairouan is 31.5 meters tall. Its base dates back to the Umayyad period in 725, and you can see Latin inscriptions from the Roman era on the walls. The first and second levels of the minaret were built in 836 using carefully cut stone. The side facing the courtyard has windows, while the other three sides have arrow slits. The third level of the minaret is a four-arched structure (chahartaq), which was likely added later.













Three sides of the Great Mosque are surrounded by double-row horseshoe-shaped arcades. The columns come from various ancient Roman and Byzantine ruins, including some from the famous site of Carthage.

There is a dome above the main entrance of the prayer hall and another above the mihrab. These domes, built in 836, are important examples of early mosque domes.

The prayer hall connects to the arcades through 17 carved wooden doors. The most beautiful one in the center was built in 1828 and features rich geometric and floral patterns.



















The mihrab of the Great Mosque is 5.1 meters high. It was built in 863 and is the oldest concave mihrab in the world. The main body of the mihrab is a horseshoe arch supported by two red marble columns. The columns have Byzantine-style capitals with very fine carvings.

The upper part of the mihrab features 139 iridescent ceramic tiles fired in the second half of the 9th century. This metallic-lustre glazed pottery originated in Abbasid-ruled Iraq and was traded throughout West Asia and North Africa. It is not yet certain whether the iridescent tiles of the Great Mosque of Kairouan were fired in Iraq or if Iraqi craftsmen were invited to Kairouan to make them.

The concave center of the upper part is made of painted wood, featuring complex vine patterns in yellow on a blue background. The lower part is inlaid with 28 white marble slabs carved with complex floral and geometric patterns, including stylized grape leaves, flowers, and shells.



















Next to the mihrab are the pulpit (minbar) for the Friday sermon and the enclosure (maqsurah) used by kings and nobles.

The minbar of the Great Mosque of Kairouan was also built in 863 and is the oldest surviving minbar in the world. The minbar is made of teak imported from India and is assembled from over 300 wooden panels carved with floral and geometric patterns. Although it was restored in the early 20th century, all but nine of the wooden panels are original pieces from over a thousand years ago. Today, the sides of the minbar are protected by glass, making it difficult to take photos due to the reflection.

The maksura at the Great Mosque of Kairouan was built in the first half of the 11th century. It is the oldest maksura in the world still in use. The maksura at the Great Mosque of Cordoba in Spain was built in 965, but it is no longer used today. The maksura is made of cedar and is 14 meters long. It is carved with ornate Kufic calligraphy and floral patterns, representing the highest achievement in Tunisian carving art at that time.

The maksura originated during the time of Caliph Uthman in the mid-7th century. After Caliph Umar was assassinated inside the prayer hall, Uthman built a partition wall inside the hall to protect himself. Later, mosques where the Caliph resided would all have a maksura built inside.



















The prayer hall of the Great Mosque of Kairouan is 70.6 meters wide and 37.5 meters deep. It consists of 17 aisles, with the aisle directly facing the mihrab being the tallest and widest. This layout was later adopted by major mosques across the Maghreb and Andalusia.

There are 414 stone columns inside the prayer hall. They are made of marble, granite, and porphyry, with capitals in styles including Corinthian, Ionic, and Composite. Some capitals were carved specifically for the prayer hall, while many others came from ancient Roman, Phoenician, and Byzantine sites in Tunisia, including the famous ancient city of Carthage.















The door inside the prayer hall's maksura is decorated with marble floral carvings. This door leads to the library behind the qibla wall, which is also where the imam usually stays. The imam only comes out from here to lead the prayer and deliver the khutbah.





The grand scene of Jumu'ah at the Great Mosque of Kairouan. After the adhan is finished, the imam slowly walks up the minbar to begin the khutbah. In Arabic-speaking regions, everyone understands the khutbah, so there is no sermon session beforehand.

Tunisia follows the Maliki school of thought. Their namaz movements are quite similar to our Hanafi school, including the initial takbir, but the main difference is that they also fold their arms when making intention.

After the prayer, we stood for janazah outside the prayer hall door. Because Jumu'ah was at three o'clock, we immediately returned to the prayer hall to perform Dhuhr after finishing.

From the 9th to the 11th century, the Great Mosque of Kairouan was the academic center for the entire Maghreb region and the Maliki school. to religious courses, it offered subjects like mathematics, astronomy, medicine, and botany. In 1045, the Zirid dynasty court in Kairouan announced its conversion to Sunni Islam. Upon hearing this, the Shi'a Fatimid dynasty in Egypt sent a group of Arab tribes to invade Kairouan. In 1057, these Arab tribes occupied and destroyed Kairouan. The Great Mosque of Kairouan declined from then on and did not slowly recover until after the 13th century.



















After leaving the Great Mosque of Kairouan, we started exploring the ancient medina of Kairouan. Besides the Great Mosque, the other ancient mosque remaining in Kairouan is the Mosque of the Three Doors (Masjid al-Thalathat Abwab), built in 866. This mosque has the oldest decorated facade of any religious building in the world.

Today, only the facade of the Mosque of the Three Doors retains its 9th-century appearance, while the minaret next to it was added in 1440. The gate of the Mosque of the Three Doors consists of three horseshoe arches and features four ancient stone columns. The arch is carved with floral patterns and Kufic calligraphy, which includes verses from the Quran and the name of the builder, Muhammad ibn Khairun. Muhammad ibn Khairun was a scholar and merchant from Andalusia who traveled through Iraq and Egypt to reach Kairouan, Tunisia. When the minaret was added in 1440, the original 9th-century inscriptions were rearranged to make room for the new text.



















In the northwest of the Kairouan Medina stands an important tomb for Sidi Sahib, a companion of the Prophet and his barber, which is why it is also called the Barber Mosque.

Legend says Sidi Sahib died in a battle in 654 and was buried here. By the 11th century, this place had become a famous holy site, and the tomb shrine (gongbei) was built in the 14th century. The Bey of Tunis, Hammuda Pasha (reigned 1631-66), expanded the tomb significantly in 1629 and built a new main hall. Another Bey, Mohamed (reigned 1675-96), built the minaret and a religious school (madrasa) between 1690 and 1695. Since the 19th century, the tomb of Sidi Sahib has undergone several renovations, but it still keeps its 17th-century architectural style.



















The tomb of Sidi Sahib in Kairouan blends Andalusian, Italian Renaissance, and local Kairouan architectural styles. The interior features many classic 17th-century Tunisian Qallalin tiles and rich plaster carvings.



















At the minaret, gate, and main hall of the Sidi Sahib tomb in Kairouan, an old man in the courtyard pours perfume into the hands of every visitor (dosti) who comes to pay their respects.













The Sidi Abid al-Ghariani school (madrasa) and shrine (zawiya) inside the Kairouan Medina were founded in the 14th century and expanded significantly in the 17th century. Abid al-Ghariani was a scholar, and his teacher, Al-Jadidi, was a famous judge in Kairouan. Al-Jadidi passed away in 1384 while on the Hajj pilgrimage in Mecca. Abid al-Ghariani took over his teacher's role to continue teaching in Kairouan, and after he died in 1402, he was buried next to the school.

Besides Abid al-Ghariani, the Hafsid dynasty Caliph Moulay Hasan (reigned 1526-1543) is also buried here. In 1534, the famous pirate Barbarossa led a fleet to invade Tunisia. Moulay Hasan eventually took back Tunisia with the help of the Holy Roman Empire, but he had to sign a treaty to become a vassal of Spain. In 1542, while Moulay Hasan was traveling to Italy to collect weapons and ammunition, his son usurped the throne, and he was eventually exiled. He lived in Naples and Sicily for several years and later met with the Holy Roman Emperor and the Pope, becoming the most well-known Arab monarch to Europeans of that era.































The city walls and gates of the Kairouan Medina.

Kairouan was founded in 670 by the Arab Umayyad general Uqba ibn Nafi, who chose the site to serve as a military base for the Arab conquest of Tunisia. Over the next hundred years, the Berbers launched wave after wave of uprisings against the Arabs. After surviving many attacks, Kairouan was finally captured by the Berbers in 745 and was not retaken until the end of the 8th century.





Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: This first part follows a visit to the Great Mosque of Kairouan for Jumu'ah in one of Tunisia's most important Islamic cities. It keeps the original prayer experience, mosque history, photographs, and travel details for readers interested in Muslim heritage in North Africa.

On Friday, we left from the Louage station south of Sousse and reached Kairouan, the most important ancient city in Tunisia, in just one hour. The Louage station in Kairouan is on the west side of the city, but you can ask the driver to drop you off right at the gate of the Great Mosque of Kairouan.

When we arrived at the Great Mosque at twelve o'clock, it was already closed. A young man at the gate told us that other mosques in Kairouan hold Jumu'ah prayer at one o'clock, but only the Great Mosque holds it at three, so he suggested we come back later.

We used this time to look at the exterior of the mosque. The Great Mosque of Kairouan is the oldest and most spectacular Jumu'ah mosque in Tunisia. It was first built in 670 by order of Uqba ibn Nafi, a general of the Arab Umayyad Caliphate. It was destroyed by Christian Berbers in 690 and rebuilt by the Umayyad Caliphate in 703. As the Arab population in Tunisia grew, the number of Muslims in Kairouan increased. The Great Mosque was rebuilt and renovated many times between 724-728, 774, 836, 862-863, and 875, finally taking its current form in the 9th century.

The Great Mosque is a huge, irregular quadrilateral with a perimeter of 405 meters, looking like a fortress from the outside. The outer walls are 1.9 meters thick and built from stone, rubble, and bricks. Because the ground is quite soft, many buttresses were built on the outer walls to increase stability.

The Great Mosque has nine gates, some of which have porches and spiral-shaped domes. Bab Lalla Rihana on the southeast side was built in 1293 during the Hafsid dynasty. It features a horseshoe arch and ancient stone columns that blend perfectly with the 9th-century walls.



















While waiting for Jumu'ah, we had lunch at El Brija Restaurant, located on the city wall next to the Great Mosque. The atmosphere and service were both good, and they serve traditional Tunisian food. I recommend eating here when visiting the Great Mosque.

We ordered a traditional appetizer platter and a mixed couscous stew. When eating at a proper restaurant in Tunisia, you really only need to order the main course, as most places provide side dishes and bread.

Our appetizer platter included Tunisian salad, Houria carrot salad, and Mechouia green pepper salad. We ate these three dishes almost every day in Tunisia. Tunisian salad is made of diced cucumbers, tomatoes, and onions mixed with olive oil, topped with boiled eggs and tuna. Mechouia salad contains green peppers, tomatoes, onions, garlic, and more. Tunisians love it, and it is rich in vitamins and very healthy. The couscous stew was very rich, containing lamb, Merguez sausage, chicken, beef, dried fruits, and preserved fruits. The Merguez sausage is seasoned with cumin and chili, making it very flavorful.

After the meal, we were served mint tea and Makroudh dessert. Makroudh is a classic North African Maghreb snack for breaking the fast. It is made of semolina on the outside, filled with date paste and dried fruits, then baked and soaked in syrup.



















We returned to the Great Mosque after two o'clock, and people were already entering the prayer hall. Once inside the courtyard, the first thing you see is the oldest minaret (bangke ta) still in existence today. The minaret of the Great Mosque of Kairouan was built between the 8th and 9th centuries. The current structure mostly dates back to 836. It is one of the three most important early minarets, alongside the spiral minaret of the Great Mosque of Samarra in Iraq, built between 848 and 852, and the spiral minaret of the Abu Dulaf Mosque in Iraq, built in 859. These three served as models for later minarets across Andalusia and the Maghreb.

There were no minarets during the time of the Prophet and the four Caliphs. People called for prayer (adhan) from the mosque entrance or the roof. Platforms for calling the adhan appeared during the Umayyad dynasty in the 7th century, but true minarets did not emerge until the Abbasid dynasty in the 8th century. There is no final conclusion on the origin of the minaret. Some say it mimics the towers of Syrian churches, while others suggest it was inspired by the Lighthouse of Alexandria or Mesopotamian ziggurats. Four towers were built during the reconstruction of the Sacred Mosque in Mecca in the late 8th century, but they have not survived. The earliest surviving minarets are the one at the Great Mosque of Kairouan and the two in Iraq. The Bride's Minaret at the Umayyad Mosque in Damascus may also date to the 9th century, but there is no clear record of this.

The minaret of the Great Mosque of Kairouan is 31.5 meters tall. Its base dates back to the Umayyad period in 725, and you can see Latin inscriptions from the Roman era on the walls. The first and second levels of the minaret were built in 836 using carefully cut stone. The side facing the courtyard has windows, while the other three sides have arrow slits. The third level of the minaret is a four-arched structure (chahartaq), which was likely added later.













Three sides of the Great Mosque are surrounded by double-row horseshoe-shaped arcades. The columns come from various ancient Roman and Byzantine ruins, including some from the famous site of Carthage.

There is a dome above the main entrance of the prayer hall and another above the mihrab. These domes, built in 836, are important examples of early mosque domes.

The prayer hall connects to the arcades through 17 carved wooden doors. The most beautiful one in the center was built in 1828 and features rich geometric and floral patterns.



















The mihrab of the Great Mosque is 5.1 meters high. It was built in 863 and is the oldest concave mihrab in the world. The main body of the mihrab is a horseshoe arch supported by two red marble columns. The columns have Byzantine-style capitals with very fine carvings.

The upper part of the mihrab features 139 iridescent ceramic tiles fired in the second half of the 9th century. This metallic-lustre glazed pottery originated in Abbasid-ruled Iraq and was traded throughout West Asia and North Africa. It is not yet certain whether the iridescent tiles of the Great Mosque of Kairouan were fired in Iraq or if Iraqi craftsmen were invited to Kairouan to make them.

The concave center of the upper part is made of painted wood, featuring complex vine patterns in yellow on a blue background. The lower part is inlaid with 28 white marble slabs carved with complex floral and geometric patterns, including stylized grape leaves, flowers, and shells.



















Next to the mihrab are the pulpit (minbar) for the Friday sermon and the enclosure (maqsurah) used by kings and nobles.

The minbar of the Great Mosque of Kairouan was also built in 863 and is the oldest surviving minbar in the world. The minbar is made of teak imported from India and is assembled from over 300 wooden panels carved with floral and geometric patterns. Although it was restored in the early 20th century, all but nine of the wooden panels are original pieces from over a thousand years ago. Today, the sides of the minbar are protected by glass, making it difficult to take photos due to the reflection.

The maksura at the Great Mosque of Kairouan was built in the first half of the 11th century. It is the oldest maksura in the world still in use. The maksura at the Great Mosque of Cordoba in Spain was built in 965, but it is no longer used today. The maksura is made of cedar and is 14 meters long. It is carved with ornate Kufic calligraphy and floral patterns, representing the highest achievement in Tunisian carving art at that time.

The maksura originated during the time of Caliph Uthman in the mid-7th century. After Caliph Umar was assassinated inside the prayer hall, Uthman built a partition wall inside the hall to protect himself. Later, mosques where the Caliph resided would all have a maksura built inside.



















The prayer hall of the Great Mosque of Kairouan is 70.6 meters wide and 37.5 meters deep. It consists of 17 aisles, with the aisle directly facing the mihrab being the tallest and widest. This layout was later adopted by major mosques across the Maghreb and Andalusia.

There are 414 stone columns inside the prayer hall. They are made of marble, granite, and porphyry, with capitals in styles including Corinthian, Ionic, and Composite. Some capitals were carved specifically for the prayer hall, while many others came from ancient Roman, Phoenician, and Byzantine sites in Tunisia, including the famous ancient city of Carthage.















The door inside the prayer hall's maksura is decorated with marble floral carvings. This door leads to the library behind the qibla wall, which is also where the imam usually stays. The imam only comes out from here to lead the prayer and deliver the khutbah.





The grand scene of Jumu'ah at the Great Mosque of Kairouan. After the adhan is finished, the imam slowly walks up the minbar to begin the khutbah. In Arabic-speaking regions, everyone understands the khutbah, so there is no sermon session beforehand.

Tunisia follows the Maliki school of thought. Their namaz movements are quite similar to our Hanafi school, including the initial takbir, but the main difference is that they also fold their arms when making intention.

After the prayer, we stood for janazah outside the prayer hall door. Because Jumu'ah was at three o'clock, we immediately returned to the prayer hall to perform Dhuhr after finishing.

From the 9th to the 11th century, the Great Mosque of Kairouan was the academic center for the entire Maghreb region and the Maliki school. to religious courses, it offered subjects like mathematics, astronomy, medicine, and botany. In 1045, the Zirid dynasty court in Kairouan announced its conversion to Sunni Islam. Upon hearing this, the Shi'a Fatimid dynasty in Egypt sent a group of Arab tribes to invade Kairouan. In 1057, these Arab tribes occupied and destroyed Kairouan. The Great Mosque of Kairouan declined from then on and did not slowly recover until after the 13th century.



















After leaving the Great Mosque of Kairouan, we started exploring the ancient medina of Kairouan. Besides the Great Mosque, the other ancient mosque remaining in Kairouan is the Mosque of the Three Doors (Masjid al-Thalathat Abwab), built in 866. This mosque has the oldest decorated facade of any religious building in the world.

Today, only the facade of the Mosque of the Three Doors retains its 9th-century appearance, while the minaret next to it was added in 1440. The gate of the Mosque of the Three Doors consists of three horseshoe arches and features four ancient stone columns. The arch is carved with floral patterns and Kufic calligraphy, which includes verses from the Quran and the name of the builder, Muhammad ibn Khairun. Muhammad ibn Khairun was a scholar and merchant from Andalusia who traveled through Iraq and Egypt to reach Kairouan, Tunisia. When the minaret was added in 1440, the original 9th-century inscriptions were rearranged to make room for the new text.



















In the northwest of the Kairouan Medina stands an important tomb for Sidi Sahib, a companion of the Prophet and his barber, which is why it is also called the Barber Mosque.

Legend says Sidi Sahib died in a battle in 654 and was buried here. By the 11th century, this place had become a famous holy site, and the tomb shrine (gongbei) was built in the 14th century. The Bey of Tunis, Hammuda Pasha (reigned 1631-66), expanded the tomb significantly in 1629 and built a new main hall. Another Bey, Mohamed (reigned 1675-96), built the minaret and a religious school (madrasa) between 1690 and 1695. Since the 19th century, the tomb of Sidi Sahib has undergone several renovations, but it still keeps its 17th-century architectural style.



















The tomb of Sidi Sahib in Kairouan blends Andalusian, Italian Renaissance, and local Kairouan architectural styles. The interior features many classic 17th-century Tunisian Qallalin tiles and rich plaster carvings.



















At the minaret, gate, and main hall of the Sidi Sahib tomb in Kairouan, an old man in the courtyard pours perfume into the hands of every visitor (dosti) who comes to pay their respects.













The Sidi Abid al-Ghariani school (madrasa) and shrine (zawiya) inside the Kairouan Medina were founded in the 14th century and expanded significantly in the 17th century. Abid al-Ghariani was a scholar, and his teacher, Al-Jadidi, was a famous judge in Kairouan. Al-Jadidi passed away in 1384 while on the Hajj pilgrimage in Mecca. Abid al-Ghariani took over his teacher's role to continue teaching in Kairouan, and after he died in 1402, he was buried next to the school.

Besides Abid al-Ghariani, the Hafsid dynasty Caliph Moulay Hasan (reigned 1526-1543) is also buried here. In 1534, the famous pirate Barbarossa led a fleet to invade Tunisia. Moulay Hasan eventually took back Tunisia with the help of the Holy Roman Empire, but he had to sign a treaty to become a vassal of Spain. In 1542, while Moulay Hasan was traveling to Italy to collect weapons and ammunition, his son usurped the throne, and he was eventually exiled. He lived in Naples and Sicily for several years and later met with the Holy Roman Emperor and the Pope, becoming the most well-known Arab monarch to Europeans of that era.































The city walls and gates of the Kairouan Medina.

Kairouan was founded in 670 by the Arab Umayyad general Uqba ibn Nafi, who chose the site to serve as a military base for the Arab conquest of Tunisia. Over the next hundred years, the Berbers launched wave after wave of uprisings against the Arabs. After surviving many attacks, Kairouan was finally captured by the Berbers in 745 and was not retaken until the end of the 8th century.





Collapse Read »

Halal Food Guide Beijing: 38 International Muslim Restaurants and Foreign Halal Eats

Reposted from the web

Summary: This Beijing halal food guide lists 38 international Muslim restaurants across the city, including Middle Eastern, South Asian, Central Asian, and other halal dining options. It keeps the original locations, restaurant notes, food details, and practical context for readers planning halal meals in Beijing.

Arab restaurants

1. The owner of Taiba is Iraqi, and the shop is in Sanlitun SOHO.

2. Taiba's new restaurant, Alkhaleej Mandi Kitchen, focuses on Gulf Arab flavors and serves Yemeni food.

3. The Lebanese restaurant Alameen is in the Sanlitun embassy area, behind the German Embassy.

4. The Lebanese restaurant Sumac (Sumake) is by the Liangma River. It is a bit pricey, and I have not been there yet.

5. The Palestinian restaurant Alsafir is on the Ocean Express food street at Sanyuanqiao.

6. The rotisserie meat shop Shawarma City (Shawama Cheng) is in the sunken plaza of Sanlitun SOHO. The owner is Palestinian and sells rotisserie meat. There is no indoor seating, so you can eat on the chairs at the entrance or take it to go.

7. The Syrian restaurant BRBR has one shop in Wudaokou and another in SOLANA, which is very busy on weekends.

8. The Syrian restaurant One Thousand and One Nights is next to the Sanlitun Diplomatic Residence Compound and is a long-standing Arab restaurant.

9. The Egyptian restaurant Cleopatra is in Sanlitun SOHO. It is a hookah lounge that sells light meals and has a buffet on weekends.

10. The Tunisian restaurant La Medina is on Liangmahe South Road outside Dongzhimen, by the Liangma River.

11. Habibi in Jiugong, Daxing. I have not eaten here yet.

Turkish restaurants

12. The high-end Turkish restaurant Sultan (Sutan) serves main courses and Mado breakfast, located in Jinshangyuan, Xinyuanli.

13. Turkish Mama is next to the Sanlitun Diplomatic Residence Compound, right by One Thousand and One Nights and Iranian food.

14. The owner of West Yard (Xiting Xiuse) is Azerbaijani. One shop is next to Sultan in Jinshangyuan, another is in China Central Place, and a new shop in WF Central is opening soon.

15. The owner of Dardanelles (Dadanier) is also Azerbaijani. The main shop is on Ritan Shangjie, and there are snack shops in Sanlitun SOHO and Xiushui Street.

16. Desert Rose and Dardanelles have the same owner, and the prices are slightly lower than Dardanelles.

Azerbaijani restaurants

17. The long-standing Azerbaijani restaurant Ruilin on Ritan Shangjie is a witness to the trade with Russia on Yabaolu. They also serve Russian food.

18. A newly opened Azerbaijani restaurant on Xiaoyun Road. I have not been there yet.

South Asian restaurants

19. The Pakistani restaurant Samosa focuses on buffets. One shop is at the old China International Exhibition Center, and the other is outside Dongzhimen.

The Pakistani restaurant Zamzam is on Xueqing Road and also features a buffet.

The Pakistani restaurant Habibi is north of the west gate of Minzu University and also features a buffet.

The Pakistani restaurant Khan Baba has one location in Wudaokou and another in Sanlitun SOHO. The owner is a Pashtun from Peshawar.

The Pakistani restaurant Lahore Restaurant has one location on Qingnian Road and another outside Dongzhimen. The owner is Punjabi.

The Pakistani restaurant Sultan is in the mountains of Huairou and offers accommodation.

The Pakistani restaurant Masala is in the Huairou county seat and has the same owner as Sultan.

Shalimar Restaurant is near the Capital Airport's Euro Plaza (Xiangyun Xiaozhen). The owner is Bangladeshi and serves mostly Indian food.

Punjabi (Benjiebi) is on Haoyun Street across from Solana (Lanse Gangwan). The owner is Bangladeshi and serves mostly Indian food.

Saduli is on Beiluoguxiang. The owner is Bangladeshi and serves mostly Indian food.

Yummy is an Indian flying bread (feibing) shop near the Communication University of China that I have not tried yet.

Dastaan Restaurant is in Sanlitun SOHO and the owner is an Indian Muslim.

Bollywood Story is a restaurant the owner of Dastaan opened in Baiziwan, which I have not tried yet.

Love at Curry (Ai Zai Gali) is on the basement floor of the Hongqiao Market in Ciqikou. The server said the owner is a Muslim from New Delhi.

Ganges Impression (Henghe Yinxiang) is in the Gulou Garden on Gulou East Street. It has a halal sign at the door, but I have not tried it yet.

The long-standing Indian restaurant Indian Kitchen (Yindu Xiaochu) is on Ritan Shangjie. The owner is Hindu, but the ingredients are halal.

Ganges Legend (Henghe Chuanqi) is in The Place (Shimao Tianjie). They are likely also Hindu, but the ingredients are halal.

African food

Tribal Garden (Buluo Huayuan) is a newly opened West African Ghanaian restaurant in Sanlitun SOHO.

Indonesian restaurants

The owner of NomNom is not Muslim, but the ingredients are halal. Indonesian Muslim students and embassy staff eat there.

Iranian restaurants

Iranian Food (Yilang Meishi) is next to the Sanlitun Diplomatic Apartment. It used to be an authentic Iranian restaurant called Persepolis. I went once after they changed the name, but I saw the staff were all Chinese and the taste was not very authentic, so I never went back.
Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: This Beijing halal food guide lists 38 international Muslim restaurants across the city, including Middle Eastern, South Asian, Central Asian, and other halal dining options. It keeps the original locations, restaurant notes, food details, and practical context for readers planning halal meals in Beijing.

Arab restaurants

1. The owner of Taiba is Iraqi, and the shop is in Sanlitun SOHO.

2. Taiba's new restaurant, Alkhaleej Mandi Kitchen, focuses on Gulf Arab flavors and serves Yemeni food.

3. The Lebanese restaurant Alameen is in the Sanlitun embassy area, behind the German Embassy.

4. The Lebanese restaurant Sumac (Sumake) is by the Liangma River. It is a bit pricey, and I have not been there yet.

5. The Palestinian restaurant Alsafir is on the Ocean Express food street at Sanyuanqiao.

6. The rotisserie meat shop Shawarma City (Shawama Cheng) is in the sunken plaza of Sanlitun SOHO. The owner is Palestinian and sells rotisserie meat. There is no indoor seating, so you can eat on the chairs at the entrance or take it to go.

7. The Syrian restaurant BRBR has one shop in Wudaokou and another in SOLANA, which is very busy on weekends.

8. The Syrian restaurant One Thousand and One Nights is next to the Sanlitun Diplomatic Residence Compound and is a long-standing Arab restaurant.

9. The Egyptian restaurant Cleopatra is in Sanlitun SOHO. It is a hookah lounge that sells light meals and has a buffet on weekends.

10. The Tunisian restaurant La Medina is on Liangmahe South Road outside Dongzhimen, by the Liangma River.

11. Habibi in Jiugong, Daxing. I have not eaten here yet.

Turkish restaurants

12. The high-end Turkish restaurant Sultan (Sutan) serves main courses and Mado breakfast, located in Jinshangyuan, Xinyuanli.

13. Turkish Mama is next to the Sanlitun Diplomatic Residence Compound, right by One Thousand and One Nights and Iranian food.

14. The owner of West Yard (Xiting Xiuse) is Azerbaijani. One shop is next to Sultan in Jinshangyuan, another is in China Central Place, and a new shop in WF Central is opening soon.

15. The owner of Dardanelles (Dadanier) is also Azerbaijani. The main shop is on Ritan Shangjie, and there are snack shops in Sanlitun SOHO and Xiushui Street.

16. Desert Rose and Dardanelles have the same owner, and the prices are slightly lower than Dardanelles.

Azerbaijani restaurants

17. The long-standing Azerbaijani restaurant Ruilin on Ritan Shangjie is a witness to the trade with Russia on Yabaolu. They also serve Russian food.

18. A newly opened Azerbaijani restaurant on Xiaoyun Road. I have not been there yet.

South Asian restaurants

19. The Pakistani restaurant Samosa focuses on buffets. One shop is at the old China International Exhibition Center, and the other is outside Dongzhimen.

The Pakistani restaurant Zamzam is on Xueqing Road and also features a buffet.

The Pakistani restaurant Habibi is north of the west gate of Minzu University and also features a buffet.

The Pakistani restaurant Khan Baba has one location in Wudaokou and another in Sanlitun SOHO. The owner is a Pashtun from Peshawar.

The Pakistani restaurant Lahore Restaurant has one location on Qingnian Road and another outside Dongzhimen. The owner is Punjabi.

The Pakistani restaurant Sultan is in the mountains of Huairou and offers accommodation.

The Pakistani restaurant Masala is in the Huairou county seat and has the same owner as Sultan.

Shalimar Restaurant is near the Capital Airport's Euro Plaza (Xiangyun Xiaozhen). The owner is Bangladeshi and serves mostly Indian food.

Punjabi (Benjiebi) is on Haoyun Street across from Solana (Lanse Gangwan). The owner is Bangladeshi and serves mostly Indian food.

Saduli is on Beiluoguxiang. The owner is Bangladeshi and serves mostly Indian food.

Yummy is an Indian flying bread (feibing) shop near the Communication University of China that I have not tried yet.

Dastaan Restaurant is in Sanlitun SOHO and the owner is an Indian Muslim.

Bollywood Story is a restaurant the owner of Dastaan opened in Baiziwan, which I have not tried yet.

Love at Curry (Ai Zai Gali) is on the basement floor of the Hongqiao Market in Ciqikou. The server said the owner is a Muslim from New Delhi.

Ganges Impression (Henghe Yinxiang) is in the Gulou Garden on Gulou East Street. It has a halal sign at the door, but I have not tried it yet.

The long-standing Indian restaurant Indian Kitchen (Yindu Xiaochu) is on Ritan Shangjie. The owner is Hindu, but the ingredients are halal.

Ganges Legend (Henghe Chuanqi) is in The Place (Shimao Tianjie). They are likely also Hindu, but the ingredients are halal.

African food

Tribal Garden (Buluo Huayuan) is a newly opened West African Ghanaian restaurant in Sanlitun SOHO.

Indonesian restaurants

The owner of NomNom is not Muslim, but the ingredients are halal. Indonesian Muslim students and embassy staff eat there.

Iranian restaurants

Iranian Food (Yilang Meishi) is next to the Sanlitun Diplomatic Apartment. It used to be an authentic Iranian restaurant called Persepolis. I went once after they changed the name, but I saw the staff were all Chinese and the taste was not very authentic, so I never went back. Collapse Read »

Halal Food Guide Tianjin: Syrian, Turkish, Xinjiang Noodles and Autumn Eats

Reposted from the web

Summary: This Tianjin halal food guide follows an autumn eating route through Syrian dishes, giant river prawns, yellow broth pulled noodles, Turkish food, and Xinjiang fresh milk ice cream. It keeps the original restaurant details, dishes, photos, and food notes for readers planning Muslim-friendly meals in Tianjin.

Two months later, we went back to Tianjin for a weekend trip with our kids. We arrived in Tianjin on Saturday at noon and headed straight to the Al-Andalus restaurant in the Nankai District Sunac Center for some Levantine food. The owner is Syrian. Al-Andalus was the name Arabs used for the Iberian Peninsula during the Middle Ages. In the 8th century, under the Umayyad dynasty, Al-Andalus was a famous center for economy, culture, academics, and education, serving as an important bridge for cultural and scientific exchange between the East and the West.

We ordered the four-person feast set, which included lentil soup, cream of mushroom soup, a hummus trio, lamb samosas (samosa), chicken wraps (shawarma), a four-season pizza, a mixed grill platter, black tea, and a crispy salad. We also ordered yogurt separately. Overall, the food was very authentic. It offers better value than the Arab restaurants in Beijing, and you don't have to wait in line. Their yogurt was especially good, with a rich, tangy flavor that beats many of the Arab restaurants in Beijing. The only downside was that the samosa dough was a bit thick, more like the South Asian version than the thin-crust Levantine style.

























After lunch, we went to the Tianjin Museum, which is currently hosting an exhibition of historical artifacts from the National Museum of Kazakhstan. See diary: [Exhibition Visit] Tianjin Museum's Kazakhstan National Museum Historical Artifacts Exhibition.



The Tianjin Museum displays exquisite brick carvings by the Hui Muslim families known as the 'Fancy Work Ma Family' (Huahuo Majia) and 'Brick Carver Liu' (Kezhuan Liu) from the Northwest Corner. See diary: [Exhibition Visit] Exquisite brick carvings by Hui Muslim artisans 'Huahuomajia' and 'Kezhuanliu' in the Northwest Corner of Tianjin.



If you are a friend (dosti) from Beijing and are tired of the same old restaurants, a trip to Tianjin will definitely open your eyes. On this trip to Tianjin, we discovered a restaurant called Xiju that specializes in giant river prawns (luoshixia). It is located on Fuxing Road, just west of the Northwest Corner. It is run by local Hui Muslims and is very busy at night.

Their signature dish is a two-pound platter of giant river prawns, which you can get spicy or with garlic sauce. Giant river prawns are freshwater prawns originally from Malaysia in Southeast Asia. They are large and have plump, tender meat, but the texture isn't as firm as sea prawns, and the prawn flavor isn't as intense. It is similar to the difference between freshwater fish and sea fish. We ordered the garlic giant river prawns. You can add noodles to the sauce, which my son loved. He couldn't stop eating them, from start to finish, and he was the one at our table who enjoyed the meal the most.

Their Chaoshan seafood porridge was also excellent. Besides having plenty of prawns, it was packed with other seafood, making the flavor very rich.

They also have various barbecue items. We ordered squid, flounder, pineapple beef skewers, cheese bread slices, charcoal-grilled beef short ribs, and beef kimchi cheese rolls. Everything tasted great, especially the flounder, which had a wonderful texture and flavor.

Their sizzling sea bass pot (zhuzhu luyu bao) was also a hit with everyone. The sea bass was very fresh, and the garlic-clove-shaped meat had a great texture.

Their fried chicken racks are sweet and sour, making them a perfect snack that gets addictive the more you eat.



















On Sunday morning, we had breakfast at Shunfa Lamian and Zhensucheng in the Xiaohaidi area of the Hexi District. Xiaohaidi is a lively residential area in the south of Tianjin with plenty of halal snacks. Shunfa Lamian is a noodle shop that has been open for over twenty years, specializing in yellow broth pulled noodles (lamian) and braised noodles (banmian). Zhensucheng is a breakfast shop that opened in 1979, specializing in crispy crepe strips in savory sauce (guobacai). Both of these shops are now franchises. The one in Xiaohaidi joined both brands, so now you can have yellow broth pulled noodles (huangtang lamian) and traditional breakfast at the same time in the morning.

We ordered yellow broth pulled noodles, water caltrop soup (lingjiao tang), flour tea (miancha), and beef pie (niurou bing). It was my first time having yellow broth pulled noodles. The yellow curry powder makes the flavor very rich, and I think it tastes even more satisfying than the clear broth version. Their water caltrop soup and flour tea both taste good, and Suleiman especially likes their flour tea. However, their beef pie has a bit too little filling. I noticed many people at the neighboring tables were eating flatbread rolls with fried fritters (dabing juanquan).













After eating at so many good restaurants in Tianjin, I finally hit a dud this time. On Sunday at noon, we went to the Galata Turkish Restaurant in Hengji Plaza, Hexi District. First of all, their tables are tiny. We ordered a meal for four, and it couldn't even fit on the table. Secondly, it is not authentic! We have eaten at so many Turkish restaurants in Beijing, Yiwu, Fuzhou, and Guangzhou, and they were all very authentic, whether run by Turkish or Azerbaijani people. This is the first time we have eaten at an inauthentic one; it is nothing like what we ate in Turkey.

Their potatoes and roasted chicken were covered in thick layers of salad dressing and ketchup. It felt just like fast food sold at a temple fair, which doesn't fit the Mediterranean diet of Turkey that focuses on spices. Also, the grilled meat was not good. Some parts were dry, and some were salty. The grill chef's skills need improvement. The grilled meat was served with pilaf (zhuafan) made with domestic short-grain rice. I suspect the chef is our fellow countryman from Xinjiang.

They do have one big advantage, which is that it is cheap! The price is about half of what you would pay at a Turkish restaurant in Beijing, so you get what you pay for. Their milk pudding and Turkish coffee also taste good. The milk pudding is not sweet, and it is quite pleasant to have with coffee. It is just that they served the coffee with a candy ball that children often eat, which is also a bad match. They should at least serve it with Turkish delight or even a piece of chocolate.













After leaving Hengji Plaza, we went to the Tatami Xinjiang Restaurant at the entrance to pack some diced noodle stir-fry (dingding chaomian) for Suleiman to eat in the evening. Their decor is quite good and very Xinjiang-style. The waiter who served us was Uyghur, and the chefs in the kitchen were all Hui Muslims. It is an open kitchen, and the chefs have real skill. We specifically asked for it to be made for a child, and the diced noodle stir-fry was indeed very suitable. Suleiman loved it. They also sell fresh milk ice cream from Tacheng, and I bought one that tasted quite good.



















I just remembered that I can add locations to my official account posts, so I will also add locations for the Tianjin restaurants recommended in previous issues.

Between the mountains and the sea: from Huairou farmhouses to coastal Western restaurants.

Haishiwan Halal Western Restaurant.

Eating Halal Western food at Haishiwan on Binjiang Road in Tianjin. Overall, their dish names and plating are quite fancy and look great in photos, but the actual taste is average, similar to fast food in a shopping mall.

The best thing they have is probably the avocado salad, which is very healthy. The tuna salad is more like a simple home-style mixed vegetable dish. The seafood fried rice and beef fried rice are both soy sauce-based, which feels more suited to the tastes of the Shandong cuisine region. The seafood pizza is plated very beautifully, but the pizza base itself is very average, just like the taste of a cheap fast-food chain. They also have various drinks with names I don't recognize, which are just sparkling water mixed with syrup. The fog coffee is great for photos, but the coffee itself is also very average.

Nuobona Halal Western Restaurant.

Nuobona Halal Western Restaurant at the 80 Food Plaza in TEDA, Tianjin, is definitely the best Halal Western food I have ever eaten! The taste is far better than the ones in downtown Tianjin.

Muyi Chinese Restaurant, Nuobona Western Restaurant, and the Western bakery on the first floor in Taifeng are all part of the Yisilai Mu Restaurant founded in 1994, and their Halal license number is Binhai 001. We have eaten at Muyi before; it is creative Chinese food with many dishes they invented themselves, and the taste is excellent. This time we tried their Western food and still had nothing but praise. Their environment is also very good, and they have a special area for children to play, which is very thoughtful.

We ordered charcoal-grilled baby lobster and creamy lobster soup served two ways, French escargot, British fish and chips, baked potato skins, golden pillow durian pizza, lasagna, tiramisu, non-alcoholic mojito, dirty milk, and rose soda, and we also ordered a kids' meal for Suleiman (spaghetti, pumpkin soup, french fries, grilled chicken wings, and fruit salad). The lobster is very tender, and the creamy lobster soup is rich and very fragrant. This was my first time eating baked escargot; the texture is very chewy and bouncy, and the various spices are added perfectly. It was my first time eating British-style fried fish, though it didn't come with french fries. The way they make it is very different from the common cod cakes in China; the fish meat is ground very finely, and the texture is very moist.

Taking kids out to eat in Tianjin: Yemeni food, Algerian desserts, rice noodle rolls (changfen), Japanese food, and water caltrop soup.

Socotra Yemeni Restaurant.

Many Yemeni restaurants have opened in Guangzhou and Yiwu, but Beijing's Arab restaurants are still mostly Levantine style. If you want a Yemeni meal, you have to take an intercity train to Tianjin.

Socotra is Socotra Island in the Arabian Sea, southeast of Yemen. It was called Sugudala in the Ming Dynasty's Zheng He Navigation Map. Socotra Island was listed as a World Natural Heritage site in 2008. The island is most famous for its dragon blood trees. The Socotra restaurant's logo is a dragon blood tree, and there are photos of the trees hanging in the shop.

We ordered the signature soup, chicken lentil soup, lamb Zurbian rice, Mushakkal stir-fried vegetables, Fahsa beef stew, banana mango juice, and Khubz flatbread. Zurbian rice is a bit like Indian Biryani rice, as both are stir-fried with various spices. Their lamb is roasted and smells great, but we found the rice a bit dry. There are also small bone fragments inside, so be careful not to let children eat it.

When you go to a Yemeni restaurant, you must try the classic Yemeni dish, Fahsa beef stew. Fahsa is usually made with lamb, but this place uses beef. When they make it, they stew the meat until it is very tender. It starts in a large vat and is then moved to a small pot to continue stewing. Besides ginger, garlic, and cumin, they add a spice called fenugreek (Hulbah) when stewing the meat. Fenugreek is actually what people in Northwest China often call fragrant beans (kudou). People in the Northwest dry the leaves of the fenugreek plant and grind them into powder to steam buns, while Yemenis grind the seeds to stew meat. Fenugreek seeds expand when they meet water and easily foam up when stirred in a bowl.

The classic pairing for Fahsa stew is Mulawah Yemeni flatbread, but this place requires you to order it in advance. You can only get Khubz flatbread if you walk in. Khubz flatbread is actually the same as the pita bread in Levantine cuisine. The version they make is quite hard, and to be honest, it is not very tasty.

Qianmu Halal Japanese Cuisine

There are no longer any halal Japanese restaurants in Beijing, so you have to go to Tianjin for this. This place is very popular, and it is hard to get a seat without booking in advance. When we went after eight o'clock, they had even sold out of rice, so we had to go to the ramen shop across the street to buy some.

We ordered tempura udon, sukiyaki, eel rice, a grilled platter, cod roe potato gratin, cheese-baked crab shell, a slow-cooked sushi platter, and marble soda. Suleiman loves their udon noodles. He couldn't stop eating them, and after he finished, he was so happy that he fell right asleep. There are quite a few grilled items, but they are mostly mushroom-based vegetable dishes with less meat. The soy sauce for the sushi is a bit salty, and the sushi itself is just average, which is a pity. The staff saw we had a child, so they cooked the sukiyaki for us before bringing it to the table. That deserves a thumbs up. The eel rice tastes okay, and next time I want to try their teriyaki chicken rice.

Xue's Northwest Corner Old-Style Breakfast

Ever since the Northwest Corner became super popular, I basically stopped going there to eat. Actually, Tianjin has so many delicious breakfast spots, not just the Northwest Corner. I used to go to Tianmu and Jinjiayao for breakfast, but this time I went to Xue's Northwest Corner Old-Style Breakfast in the Lushuidao area of Jinnan District. Their shop is a simple neighborhood eatery on the ground floor of an apartment complex, where all the local seniors come to eat.

We didn't arrive until nine, so most things were sold out. We just ordered water caltrop dumplings (lingjiao tang), sesame flatbread with meat (shaobing jiarou), and savory crepe strips in sauce (guobacai). Their water caltrop dumplings are truly delicious. The skin is the perfect texture, and the filling is very fragrant. Suleiman ate several in one go. The sesame flatbread for the meat sandwich is crispy, and the flavor is quite good. The savory crepe strips are a traditional old-school flavor, but eating both the dumplings and the crepe strips together is a bit heavy. I feel like the crepe strips go best with iron-pot soy milk.

Algerian Bakery

I had an Algerian afternoon tea at Lyn's Healthy Bakeshop on Chifeng Road in Tianjin. Chifeng Road is in the former French Concession area, which is full of small Western-style villas and all kinds of little shops.

The owner, who is from Algeria, opened this small shop for tea and desserts. It should be the first Algerian restaurant in China. I have to say, Tianjin's food scene is once again at the forefront of internationalization!

They offer both à la carte and afternoon tea sets. They have both traditional Algerian desserts and Western pastries. Everything uses maple syrup instead of white sugar, focusing on healthy eating. It is probably the least sweet Arabic dessert shop I have ever visited!

We drank Algerian mint tea and Algerian orange blossom lemonade (Sherbet Mazhar). The mint tea is brewed to order, so you have to wait a while. The aroma is very strong, but because it is freshly brewed, you cannot get refills. Orange blossom water is definitely a signature Algerian drink, especially classic at wedding banquets in northern Algeria. The orange blossom drink is made from orange blossom water distilled from bitter orange blossoms, mixed with syrup and water. It is very refreshing in the summer.

We ate Algerian baklava (Baklawa), apple pie, milk pudding (M'halbi), and cheesecake. Suleiman loved the cheesecake the most. Baklava was introduced to Algeria from Turkey during the Ottoman period. The Algerian version adds crushed almonds and orange blossom water, so the taste is different from the Turkish one.

Milk pudding (M'halbi) is a classic Middle Eastern dessert for breaking the fast and is most popular during Ramadan. The name M'halbi comes from Al-Muhallab, the governor of Khorasan during the Umayyad Caliphate. Legend has it that he once had a stomachache, and a doctor made him milk-boiled rice flour with sugar. He liked it so much that he named the dessert after himself.

Finally, I want to say that their food is excellent, but the decor is still a bit simple. If they could highlight the Algerian theme more, it would definitely become a new trendy spot in Tianjin.

Yiweizhai Halal Rice Noodle Rolls

I ate rice noodle rolls (changfen) at Yiweizhai on Xihu Road in Tianjin. I used to go to Yeji Changfen whenever I visited Tianjin, but this was my first time at Yiweizhai. The shop at Yiweizhai is small, but they have a huge variety of dishes. We ordered seafood rice noodle rolls, fresh shrimp steamed dumplings (shaomai), chicken feet in black bean sauce (chizhi fengzhua), claypot rice with cured beef (laoniurou baozai fan), plain beef tendon balls, curry beef balls, curry fish balls, and traditional crispy mung bean starch jelly (laowei cuipi menzi). Except for the claypot rice, which takes a while because it is cooked from raw rice, the other dishes arrived very quickly.

Overall, their food is very good. It really shows how much effort Tianjin people put into their cooking. Their rice noodle rolls have a great texture, not as firm as the ones I had in Hong Kong. Their beef tendon balls and fish balls also have a fantastic texture; we ordered one portion and then added another. By comparison, the beef balls were just average. This was my first time eating crispy mung bean starch jelly. I had only ever had pan-fried versions before, which clearly do not taste as good as this crispy-on-the-outside, tender-on-the-inside version.

My hometown: Hexiwu Town, Wuqing, Tianjin.

Xinpengzhai Restaurant.

I first bought the signature golden-rimmed braised noodles (jinbian koumen) at Xinpengzhai Restaurant. It is beef and bean sprout braised noodles (menbing) topped with a fried egg. The egg was very fragrant, and it was my first time eating menbing this way. It tasted excellent.

Wangji Lirenzhai.

Inside the Hexiwu farmers' market is the Shouyi Snack Street, where the most famous item is the yellow rice fried cake (huangmi zhagao) from the century-old shop Wangji Lirenzhai. We arrived a bit late and they were closing at 1:00 PM, so we just bought all the remaining fried cakes.

Lirenzhai is a Tianjin intangible cultural heritage project for the craft of making Hexiwu Lirenzhai fried cakes. The Wang family's ancestral home was in Cangzhou, Hebei. At the end of the Qing Dynasty, they fled the war and came to Wuqing. They first settled in Yangcun, but later heard that Hexiwu was densely populated and had a large community of Hui Muslims, so they moved to Hexiwu to settle down. In 1918, Wang Zhenlong inherited the family craft and officially set up a stall in Hexiwu, specializing in yellow rice fried cakes. After 1958, the Wangji fried cake business was merged into a cooperative store, and it was shut down after the 1960s. It wasn't until 1979 that the second-generation successor, Wang Jinyuan, inherited the family business and revived Wangji fried cakes. In 1999, the third-generation successor, Wang Xueren, took over and renamed it Lirenzhai, which is what it is called today.

Yangji Gezhihe.

Besides yellow rice fried cakes, the fried mung bean flour rolls (gezhihe) in Hexiwu are also very famous. Unlike the common version, the ones here are filled. They come in mung bean flour and wheat flour varieties, giving them a richer texture than standard fried mung bean flour rolls.
Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: This Tianjin halal food guide follows an autumn eating route through Syrian dishes, giant river prawns, yellow broth pulled noodles, Turkish food, and Xinjiang fresh milk ice cream. It keeps the original restaurant details, dishes, photos, and food notes for readers planning Muslim-friendly meals in Tianjin.

Two months later, we went back to Tianjin for a weekend trip with our kids. We arrived in Tianjin on Saturday at noon and headed straight to the Al-Andalus restaurant in the Nankai District Sunac Center for some Levantine food. The owner is Syrian. Al-Andalus was the name Arabs used for the Iberian Peninsula during the Middle Ages. In the 8th century, under the Umayyad dynasty, Al-Andalus was a famous center for economy, culture, academics, and education, serving as an important bridge for cultural and scientific exchange between the East and the West.

We ordered the four-person feast set, which included lentil soup, cream of mushroom soup, a hummus trio, lamb samosas (samosa), chicken wraps (shawarma), a four-season pizza, a mixed grill platter, black tea, and a crispy salad. We also ordered yogurt separately. Overall, the food was very authentic. It offers better value than the Arab restaurants in Beijing, and you don't have to wait in line. Their yogurt was especially good, with a rich, tangy flavor that beats many of the Arab restaurants in Beijing. The only downside was that the samosa dough was a bit thick, more like the South Asian version than the thin-crust Levantine style.

























After lunch, we went to the Tianjin Museum, which is currently hosting an exhibition of historical artifacts from the National Museum of Kazakhstan. See diary: [Exhibition Visit] Tianjin Museum's Kazakhstan National Museum Historical Artifacts Exhibition.



The Tianjin Museum displays exquisite brick carvings by the Hui Muslim families known as the 'Fancy Work Ma Family' (Huahuo Majia) and 'Brick Carver Liu' (Kezhuan Liu) from the Northwest Corner. See diary: [Exhibition Visit] Exquisite brick carvings by Hui Muslim artisans 'Huahuomajia' and 'Kezhuanliu' in the Northwest Corner of Tianjin.



If you are a friend (dosti) from Beijing and are tired of the same old restaurants, a trip to Tianjin will definitely open your eyes. On this trip to Tianjin, we discovered a restaurant called Xiju that specializes in giant river prawns (luoshixia). It is located on Fuxing Road, just west of the Northwest Corner. It is run by local Hui Muslims and is very busy at night.

Their signature dish is a two-pound platter of giant river prawns, which you can get spicy or with garlic sauce. Giant river prawns are freshwater prawns originally from Malaysia in Southeast Asia. They are large and have plump, tender meat, but the texture isn't as firm as sea prawns, and the prawn flavor isn't as intense. It is similar to the difference between freshwater fish and sea fish. We ordered the garlic giant river prawns. You can add noodles to the sauce, which my son loved. He couldn't stop eating them, from start to finish, and he was the one at our table who enjoyed the meal the most.

Their Chaoshan seafood porridge was also excellent. Besides having plenty of prawns, it was packed with other seafood, making the flavor very rich.

They also have various barbecue items. We ordered squid, flounder, pineapple beef skewers, cheese bread slices, charcoal-grilled beef short ribs, and beef kimchi cheese rolls. Everything tasted great, especially the flounder, which had a wonderful texture and flavor.

Their sizzling sea bass pot (zhuzhu luyu bao) was also a hit with everyone. The sea bass was very fresh, and the garlic-clove-shaped meat had a great texture.

Their fried chicken racks are sweet and sour, making them a perfect snack that gets addictive the more you eat.



















On Sunday morning, we had breakfast at Shunfa Lamian and Zhensucheng in the Xiaohaidi area of the Hexi District. Xiaohaidi is a lively residential area in the south of Tianjin with plenty of halal snacks. Shunfa Lamian is a noodle shop that has been open for over twenty years, specializing in yellow broth pulled noodles (lamian) and braised noodles (banmian). Zhensucheng is a breakfast shop that opened in 1979, specializing in crispy crepe strips in savory sauce (guobacai). Both of these shops are now franchises. The one in Xiaohaidi joined both brands, so now you can have yellow broth pulled noodles (huangtang lamian) and traditional breakfast at the same time in the morning.

We ordered yellow broth pulled noodles, water caltrop soup (lingjiao tang), flour tea (miancha), and beef pie (niurou bing). It was my first time having yellow broth pulled noodles. The yellow curry powder makes the flavor very rich, and I think it tastes even more satisfying than the clear broth version. Their water caltrop soup and flour tea both taste good, and Suleiman especially likes their flour tea. However, their beef pie has a bit too little filling. I noticed many people at the neighboring tables were eating flatbread rolls with fried fritters (dabing juanquan).













After eating at so many good restaurants in Tianjin, I finally hit a dud this time. On Sunday at noon, we went to the Galata Turkish Restaurant in Hengji Plaza, Hexi District. First of all, their tables are tiny. We ordered a meal for four, and it couldn't even fit on the table. Secondly, it is not authentic! We have eaten at so many Turkish restaurants in Beijing, Yiwu, Fuzhou, and Guangzhou, and they were all very authentic, whether run by Turkish or Azerbaijani people. This is the first time we have eaten at an inauthentic one; it is nothing like what we ate in Turkey.

Their potatoes and roasted chicken were covered in thick layers of salad dressing and ketchup. It felt just like fast food sold at a temple fair, which doesn't fit the Mediterranean diet of Turkey that focuses on spices. Also, the grilled meat was not good. Some parts were dry, and some were salty. The grill chef's skills need improvement. The grilled meat was served with pilaf (zhuafan) made with domestic short-grain rice. I suspect the chef is our fellow countryman from Xinjiang.

They do have one big advantage, which is that it is cheap! The price is about half of what you would pay at a Turkish restaurant in Beijing, so you get what you pay for. Their milk pudding and Turkish coffee also taste good. The milk pudding is not sweet, and it is quite pleasant to have with coffee. It is just that they served the coffee with a candy ball that children often eat, which is also a bad match. They should at least serve it with Turkish delight or even a piece of chocolate.













After leaving Hengji Plaza, we went to the Tatami Xinjiang Restaurant at the entrance to pack some diced noodle stir-fry (dingding chaomian) for Suleiman to eat in the evening. Their decor is quite good and very Xinjiang-style. The waiter who served us was Uyghur, and the chefs in the kitchen were all Hui Muslims. It is an open kitchen, and the chefs have real skill. We specifically asked for it to be made for a child, and the diced noodle stir-fry was indeed very suitable. Suleiman loved it. They also sell fresh milk ice cream from Tacheng, and I bought one that tasted quite good.



















I just remembered that I can add locations to my official account posts, so I will also add locations for the Tianjin restaurants recommended in previous issues.

Between the mountains and the sea: from Huairou farmhouses to coastal Western restaurants.

Haishiwan Halal Western Restaurant.

Eating Halal Western food at Haishiwan on Binjiang Road in Tianjin. Overall, their dish names and plating are quite fancy and look great in photos, but the actual taste is average, similar to fast food in a shopping mall.

The best thing they have is probably the avocado salad, which is very healthy. The tuna salad is more like a simple home-style mixed vegetable dish. The seafood fried rice and beef fried rice are both soy sauce-based, which feels more suited to the tastes of the Shandong cuisine region. The seafood pizza is plated very beautifully, but the pizza base itself is very average, just like the taste of a cheap fast-food chain. They also have various drinks with names I don't recognize, which are just sparkling water mixed with syrup. The fog coffee is great for photos, but the coffee itself is also very average.

Nuobona Halal Western Restaurant.

Nuobona Halal Western Restaurant at the 80 Food Plaza in TEDA, Tianjin, is definitely the best Halal Western food I have ever eaten! The taste is far better than the ones in downtown Tianjin.

Muyi Chinese Restaurant, Nuobona Western Restaurant, and the Western bakery on the first floor in Taifeng are all part of the Yisilai Mu Restaurant founded in 1994, and their Halal license number is Binhai 001. We have eaten at Muyi before; it is creative Chinese food with many dishes they invented themselves, and the taste is excellent. This time we tried their Western food and still had nothing but praise. Their environment is also very good, and they have a special area for children to play, which is very thoughtful.

We ordered charcoal-grilled baby lobster and creamy lobster soup served two ways, French escargot, British fish and chips, baked potato skins, golden pillow durian pizza, lasagna, tiramisu, non-alcoholic mojito, dirty milk, and rose soda, and we also ordered a kids' meal for Suleiman (spaghetti, pumpkin soup, french fries, grilled chicken wings, and fruit salad). The lobster is very tender, and the creamy lobster soup is rich and very fragrant. This was my first time eating baked escargot; the texture is very chewy and bouncy, and the various spices are added perfectly. It was my first time eating British-style fried fish, though it didn't come with french fries. The way they make it is very different from the common cod cakes in China; the fish meat is ground very finely, and the texture is very moist.

Taking kids out to eat in Tianjin: Yemeni food, Algerian desserts, rice noodle rolls (changfen), Japanese food, and water caltrop soup.

Socotra Yemeni Restaurant.

Many Yemeni restaurants have opened in Guangzhou and Yiwu, but Beijing's Arab restaurants are still mostly Levantine style. If you want a Yemeni meal, you have to take an intercity train to Tianjin.

Socotra is Socotra Island in the Arabian Sea, southeast of Yemen. It was called Sugudala in the Ming Dynasty's Zheng He Navigation Map. Socotra Island was listed as a World Natural Heritage site in 2008. The island is most famous for its dragon blood trees. The Socotra restaurant's logo is a dragon blood tree, and there are photos of the trees hanging in the shop.

We ordered the signature soup, chicken lentil soup, lamb Zurbian rice, Mushakkal stir-fried vegetables, Fahsa beef stew, banana mango juice, and Khubz flatbread. Zurbian rice is a bit like Indian Biryani rice, as both are stir-fried with various spices. Their lamb is roasted and smells great, but we found the rice a bit dry. There are also small bone fragments inside, so be careful not to let children eat it.

When you go to a Yemeni restaurant, you must try the classic Yemeni dish, Fahsa beef stew. Fahsa is usually made with lamb, but this place uses beef. When they make it, they stew the meat until it is very tender. It starts in a large vat and is then moved to a small pot to continue stewing. Besides ginger, garlic, and cumin, they add a spice called fenugreek (Hulbah) when stewing the meat. Fenugreek is actually what people in Northwest China often call fragrant beans (kudou). People in the Northwest dry the leaves of the fenugreek plant and grind them into powder to steam buns, while Yemenis grind the seeds to stew meat. Fenugreek seeds expand when they meet water and easily foam up when stirred in a bowl.

The classic pairing for Fahsa stew is Mulawah Yemeni flatbread, but this place requires you to order it in advance. You can only get Khubz flatbread if you walk in. Khubz flatbread is actually the same as the pita bread in Levantine cuisine. The version they make is quite hard, and to be honest, it is not very tasty.

Qianmu Halal Japanese Cuisine

There are no longer any halal Japanese restaurants in Beijing, so you have to go to Tianjin for this. This place is very popular, and it is hard to get a seat without booking in advance. When we went after eight o'clock, they had even sold out of rice, so we had to go to the ramen shop across the street to buy some.

We ordered tempura udon, sukiyaki, eel rice, a grilled platter, cod roe potato gratin, cheese-baked crab shell, a slow-cooked sushi platter, and marble soda. Suleiman loves their udon noodles. He couldn't stop eating them, and after he finished, he was so happy that he fell right asleep. There are quite a few grilled items, but they are mostly mushroom-based vegetable dishes with less meat. The soy sauce for the sushi is a bit salty, and the sushi itself is just average, which is a pity. The staff saw we had a child, so they cooked the sukiyaki for us before bringing it to the table. That deserves a thumbs up. The eel rice tastes okay, and next time I want to try their teriyaki chicken rice.

Xue's Northwest Corner Old-Style Breakfast

Ever since the Northwest Corner became super popular, I basically stopped going there to eat. Actually, Tianjin has so many delicious breakfast spots, not just the Northwest Corner. I used to go to Tianmu and Jinjiayao for breakfast, but this time I went to Xue's Northwest Corner Old-Style Breakfast in the Lushuidao area of Jinnan District. Their shop is a simple neighborhood eatery on the ground floor of an apartment complex, where all the local seniors come to eat.

We didn't arrive until nine, so most things were sold out. We just ordered water caltrop dumplings (lingjiao tang), sesame flatbread with meat (shaobing jiarou), and savory crepe strips in sauce (guobacai). Their water caltrop dumplings are truly delicious. The skin is the perfect texture, and the filling is very fragrant. Suleiman ate several in one go. The sesame flatbread for the meat sandwich is crispy, and the flavor is quite good. The savory crepe strips are a traditional old-school flavor, but eating both the dumplings and the crepe strips together is a bit heavy. I feel like the crepe strips go best with iron-pot soy milk.

Algerian Bakery

I had an Algerian afternoon tea at Lyn's Healthy Bakeshop on Chifeng Road in Tianjin. Chifeng Road is in the former French Concession area, which is full of small Western-style villas and all kinds of little shops.

The owner, who is from Algeria, opened this small shop for tea and desserts. It should be the first Algerian restaurant in China. I have to say, Tianjin's food scene is once again at the forefront of internationalization!

They offer both à la carte and afternoon tea sets. They have both traditional Algerian desserts and Western pastries. Everything uses maple syrup instead of white sugar, focusing on healthy eating. It is probably the least sweet Arabic dessert shop I have ever visited!

We drank Algerian mint tea and Algerian orange blossom lemonade (Sherbet Mazhar). The mint tea is brewed to order, so you have to wait a while. The aroma is very strong, but because it is freshly brewed, you cannot get refills. Orange blossom water is definitely a signature Algerian drink, especially classic at wedding banquets in northern Algeria. The orange blossom drink is made from orange blossom water distilled from bitter orange blossoms, mixed with syrup and water. It is very refreshing in the summer.

We ate Algerian baklava (Baklawa), apple pie, milk pudding (M'halbi), and cheesecake. Suleiman loved the cheesecake the most. Baklava was introduced to Algeria from Turkey during the Ottoman period. The Algerian version adds crushed almonds and orange blossom water, so the taste is different from the Turkish one.

Milk pudding (M'halbi) is a classic Middle Eastern dessert for breaking the fast and is most popular during Ramadan. The name M'halbi comes from Al-Muhallab, the governor of Khorasan during the Umayyad Caliphate. Legend has it that he once had a stomachache, and a doctor made him milk-boiled rice flour with sugar. He liked it so much that he named the dessert after himself.

Finally, I want to say that their food is excellent, but the decor is still a bit simple. If they could highlight the Algerian theme more, it would definitely become a new trendy spot in Tianjin.

Yiweizhai Halal Rice Noodle Rolls

I ate rice noodle rolls (changfen) at Yiweizhai on Xihu Road in Tianjin. I used to go to Yeji Changfen whenever I visited Tianjin, but this was my first time at Yiweizhai. The shop at Yiweizhai is small, but they have a huge variety of dishes. We ordered seafood rice noodle rolls, fresh shrimp steamed dumplings (shaomai), chicken feet in black bean sauce (chizhi fengzhua), claypot rice with cured beef (laoniurou baozai fan), plain beef tendon balls, curry beef balls, curry fish balls, and traditional crispy mung bean starch jelly (laowei cuipi menzi). Except for the claypot rice, which takes a while because it is cooked from raw rice, the other dishes arrived very quickly.

Overall, their food is very good. It really shows how much effort Tianjin people put into their cooking. Their rice noodle rolls have a great texture, not as firm as the ones I had in Hong Kong. Their beef tendon balls and fish balls also have a fantastic texture; we ordered one portion and then added another. By comparison, the beef balls were just average. This was my first time eating crispy mung bean starch jelly. I had only ever had pan-fried versions before, which clearly do not taste as good as this crispy-on-the-outside, tender-on-the-inside version.

My hometown: Hexiwu Town, Wuqing, Tianjin.

Xinpengzhai Restaurant.

I first bought the signature golden-rimmed braised noodles (jinbian koumen) at Xinpengzhai Restaurant. It is beef and bean sprout braised noodles (menbing) topped with a fried egg. The egg was very fragrant, and it was my first time eating menbing this way. It tasted excellent.

Wangji Lirenzhai.

Inside the Hexiwu farmers' market is the Shouyi Snack Street, where the most famous item is the yellow rice fried cake (huangmi zhagao) from the century-old shop Wangji Lirenzhai. We arrived a bit late and they were closing at 1:00 PM, so we just bought all the remaining fried cakes.

Lirenzhai is a Tianjin intangible cultural heritage project for the craft of making Hexiwu Lirenzhai fried cakes. The Wang family's ancestral home was in Cangzhou, Hebei. At the end of the Qing Dynasty, they fled the war and came to Wuqing. They first settled in Yangcun, but later heard that Hexiwu was densely populated and had a large community of Hui Muslims, so they moved to Hexiwu to settle down. In 1918, Wang Zhenlong inherited the family craft and officially set up a stall in Hexiwu, specializing in yellow rice fried cakes. After 1958, the Wangji fried cake business was merged into a cooperative store, and it was shut down after the 1960s. It wasn't until 1979 that the second-generation successor, Wang Jinyuan, inherited the family business and revived Wangji fried cakes. In 1999, the third-generation successor, Wang Xueren, took over and renamed it Lirenzhai, which is what it is called today.

Yangji Gezhihe.

Besides yellow rice fried cakes, the fried mung bean flour rolls (gezhihe) in Hexiwu are also very famous. Unlike the common version, the ones here are filled. They come in mung bean flour and wheat flour varieties, giving them a richer texture than standard fried mung bean flour rolls. Collapse Read »

Muslim History Guide Tianjin Museum: Kazakhstan Artifacts, Silk Road Culture and Islamic Heritage

Reposted from the web

Summary: This article covers the Kazakhstan National Museum collection exhibition at Tianjin Museum, with a close look at historical artifacts, steppe culture, and Central Asian heritage. It preserves the original exhibition details, object names, photographs, and cultural context for English readers.

From September 30, 2024, to February 12, 2025, the fifth floor of the Tianjin Museum is hosting an exhibition of historical artifacts from the National Museum of Kazakhstan. Overall, it is not very stunning and lacks any major, heavy-hitting artifacts. Of course, I did not see any particularly significant artifacts when I visited the National Museum of Kazakhstan in person either.







These are carved clay tiles from the 12th-century Karakhanid dynasty Aisha-Bibi Mausoleum in the ancient city of Taraz. The architectural style of this mausoleum follows the Samanid Mausoleum in Bukhara and serves as an important example of Karakhanid architecture. Taraz grew into a wealthy city during the 9th-century Samanid dynasty, reached its peak during the 10th to 12th-century Karakhanid dynasty, and was destroyed by the Mongol army in 1220.



These are painted glazed tiles and glazed pottery shards from the Khoja Ahmed Yasawi Mausoleum, dating to the Timurid dynasty between 1389 and 1405. This mausoleum is a masterpiece of Timurid architecture and an important religious center in southern Kazakhstan. It was added to the World Heritage List in 2003.





These are glazed tile fragments unearthed from a mausoleum at the Zhaiyk ancient city site, dating to the 14th-century Golden Horde period. The Zhaiyk ancient city site was discovered by an archaeological team in 2001 and has since been fully excavated and studied. Inside the city, they found the remains of a Turkish bath with an underfloor heating system, and in the cemetery west of the city, they found a domed mausoleum decorated with colorful glazed tiles.



These are clay bricks unearthed from the Kyshkala ancient city site in the Syr Darya delta. Kyshkala was a wealthy ancient city during the Golden Horde period that produced a large number of clay bricks.







This is a Kimeshek, an embroidered head covering for married women from 19th-century southern Kazakhstan.





A Kimeshek with lace pendants.







A Kebeje, which is a wooden chest with bone inlays, dating from the 19th to the mid-20th century.







A Khan's robe (chapan) made of velvet, gold and silver thread, and appliqué from 18th to 19th-century northern Kazakhstan. After the 18th century, due to long-term conflicts with the Dzungar Khanate, the Kazakh Khanate split into the Senior, Middle, and Junior Juz, with each Juz having its own Khan. After the mid-19th century, the Kazakh Khanate was gradually controlled by the Russian Empire. Khan Kenesary Kasymov (reigned 1841–1847) was the last national hero to bravely resist Russia. After he died for his country in 1847, the Kazakh Khanate was declared fallen.









Traditional Kazakh clothing made by master designer Aizhan Abdubait. She comes from a family of tailors and is dedicated to making ethnic clothing. She has also restored the gold-thread embroidery technique that was gradually lost after the fall of the Kazakh Khanate in the 19th century. This is an embroidery technique that was used on the clothing of Khans and Sultans during the Kazakh Khanate era.











A 19th-century chest ornament.



A 20th-century belt.





An axe, a club, and a sheathed knife.



A 19th-century copper pot.
Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: This article covers the Kazakhstan National Museum collection exhibition at Tianjin Museum, with a close look at historical artifacts, steppe culture, and Central Asian heritage. It preserves the original exhibition details, object names, photographs, and cultural context for English readers.

From September 30, 2024, to February 12, 2025, the fifth floor of the Tianjin Museum is hosting an exhibition of historical artifacts from the National Museum of Kazakhstan. Overall, it is not very stunning and lacks any major, heavy-hitting artifacts. Of course, I did not see any particularly significant artifacts when I visited the National Museum of Kazakhstan in person either.







These are carved clay tiles from the 12th-century Karakhanid dynasty Aisha-Bibi Mausoleum in the ancient city of Taraz. The architectural style of this mausoleum follows the Samanid Mausoleum in Bukhara and serves as an important example of Karakhanid architecture. Taraz grew into a wealthy city during the 9th-century Samanid dynasty, reached its peak during the 10th to 12th-century Karakhanid dynasty, and was destroyed by the Mongol army in 1220.



These are painted glazed tiles and glazed pottery shards from the Khoja Ahmed Yasawi Mausoleum, dating to the Timurid dynasty between 1389 and 1405. This mausoleum is a masterpiece of Timurid architecture and an important religious center in southern Kazakhstan. It was added to the World Heritage List in 2003.





These are glazed tile fragments unearthed from a mausoleum at the Zhaiyk ancient city site, dating to the 14th-century Golden Horde period. The Zhaiyk ancient city site was discovered by an archaeological team in 2001 and has since been fully excavated and studied. Inside the city, they found the remains of a Turkish bath with an underfloor heating system, and in the cemetery west of the city, they found a domed mausoleum decorated with colorful glazed tiles.



These are clay bricks unearthed from the Kyshkala ancient city site in the Syr Darya delta. Kyshkala was a wealthy ancient city during the Golden Horde period that produced a large number of clay bricks.







This is a Kimeshek, an embroidered head covering for married women from 19th-century southern Kazakhstan.





A Kimeshek with lace pendants.







A Kebeje, which is a wooden chest with bone inlays, dating from the 19th to the mid-20th century.







A Khan's robe (chapan) made of velvet, gold and silver thread, and appliqué from 18th to 19th-century northern Kazakhstan. After the 18th century, due to long-term conflicts with the Dzungar Khanate, the Kazakh Khanate split into the Senior, Middle, and Junior Juz, with each Juz having its own Khan. After the mid-19th century, the Kazakh Khanate was gradually controlled by the Russian Empire. Khan Kenesary Kasymov (reigned 1841–1847) was the last national hero to bravely resist Russia. After he died for his country in 1847, the Kazakh Khanate was declared fallen.









Traditional Kazakh clothing made by master designer Aizhan Abdubait. She comes from a family of tailors and is dedicated to making ethnic clothing. She has also restored the gold-thread embroidery technique that was gradually lost after the fall of the Kazakh Khanate in the 19th century. This is an embroidery technique that was used on the clothing of Khans and Sultans during the Kazakh Khanate era.











A 19th-century chest ornament.



A 20th-century belt.





An axe, a club, and a sheathed knife.



A 19th-century copper pot. Collapse Read »

Halal Food Guide Southeast Asia: Malaysia, Singapore and Indonesia Drinks and Muslim Travel Notes

Reposted from the web

Summary: This article follows a tasting route through drinks from Malaysia, Singapore, and Indonesia, from street-side juices to regional bottled drinks and cafe favorites. It keeps the original drink names, places, prices, photos, and travel notes for readers looking for everyday food culture in Southeast Asia.

Malaysia

Malacca: avocado juice, longan lemon tea, and lime plum juice (lime plum shuizhi).

Penang: sour plum guava juice, Penang nutmeg water, and Arabian rose water.

Seremban: lychee water.

Kuala Lumpur: blue pea flower tea and barley lime water.

Singapore

Clear soup (chee kong), three-layer milk tea, pulled tea (teh tarik), Milo dinosaur, and ginger tea.

Indonesia

Yogyakarta: cendol drink (es dawet ayu), dragon fruit juice, and ginger herbal drink (sekoteng).

Solo: basil seed cendol (es dawet telasih), durian cendol (es dawet durian), and herbal medicine (jamu).

Kudus: fruit ice (es buah).

Banten: mixed ice dessert (es campur).

Jakarta: layered rice flour jelly drink (selendang mayang).

Malaysia

Malacca

Avocado juice

Across from Dataran Pahlawan in Malacca, there is a large Malay night market that seems to open only on weekends, offering endless varieties of snacks. We had just finished a meal and were too full to eat, so we bought a huge avocado juice. Tropical fruits are cheap all over Malaysia. As long as you don't buy durian in tourist areas, you can basically eat as much fruit as you want.





Longan lemon tea

In Kampung Hulu, there is a lovely cake shop called Malaiqa By Gula Cakery that is very popular with young people. The shop is located in a shophouse built in 1941. The decor is fresh and simple, showing a great example of revitalizing the old city. We ordered the longan lemon tea, and it tasted great. These fresh, small shops in Malaysia are really wonderful, though we usually go for traditional food and don't visit places like this very often.









Lime plum drink (juzi suanmei shui)

As the birthplace of Nyonya culture, you must try Nyonya food when visiting Malacca. There are many halal Nyonya restaurants on the east side of Malacca's old town along Merdeka Street (Jln Merdeka), with Atlantic and Cottage Spices being the most famous. Both places had lines when we arrived, so we took numbers for both. Cottage Spices had an opening first, so we ate there. We ordered the lime plum drink (juzi suanmei shui), which was tart and very appetizing.









Penang

Sour plum guava juice

Lagenda Cafe in Penang is a themed restaurant honoring the godfather of Malay film and music, P. Ramlee (1929-1973), and it plays his classic songs on a loop. We drank Asam Boi & Guava Tea, made with lime, mint, black tea, sour plum, and fresh-pressed guava juice; it was very refreshing and smooth.







Penang nutmeg drink and Arabian rose water (sherbet)

A unique group called Jawi Peranakan lives in Penang and Singapore. They are a Malay-speaking community formed by the intermarriage of Indian (as well as Arab and Persian) men and Malay women. "Jawi" means "Southeast Asia" in Arabic, and "Peranakan" means "locally born" in Malay.

After the 20th century, as the British Empire declined, the Jawi Peranakan community began to integrate into the Malay population. Today, the government counts most Jawi Peranakan as "Malay." Even so, the Jawi Peranakan community still works hard to pass on its unique culture, which shows in their architecture, clothing, jewelry, and food.

Today, the best place in Penang to experience Jawi Peranakan culture is the Jawi House Cafe Gallery. The building was originally a Straits Eclectic-style Chinese shophouse built in the 1860s with Malay-style decorations, and it later served as an Indian coppersmith shop. The street where the shop is located, Armenian Street (Lebuh Armenian, formerly Malay lane), was the earliest settlement area for the Jawi Peranakan community. In 2012, the Karim family, who have lived in Penang for six generations and have Punjabi roots, opened Jawi House here to make authentic Jawi Peranakan food.

We drank the Penang Nutmeg and Arabian Sherbet here. Nutmeg is a local Penang specialty, and this drink is mixed with honey and lemon for a sweet and sour taste.

Sherbet comes from the Persian word "Sharbat," which means a non-alcoholic sugary drink. In medieval Arabia, people loved to add syrup and honey to Sharbat for sweetness, along with almonds, lemon, apple, pomegranate, tamarind, dates, sumac, musk, and mint. Spread by Arabs and Persians, Sharbat is now popular across West Asia, South Asia, and the Malay Archipelago, especially during Ramadan. The Arabian Sherbet at Jawi House is made with rose syrup, mallow nuts, gum arabic, and basil seeds, giving it a very rich flavor.







Hibiscus

Lychee water

Mohd Chan is likely the most famous and largest halal Cantonese restaurant chain in Malaysia, now with 19 locations including restaurants, dim sum shops, and takeout spots. The founder of Mohd Chan, Dato HJ Mohd Chan, was born in Gombak, Selangor. Influenced by his Malay friends, he converted to Islam in 2007 and started his halal Cantonese restaurant that same year, focusing on blending Cantonese cuisine with local flavors. We drank their lychee water, which was packed with plenty of ingredients.







Kuala Lumpur

Blue pea flower tea and barley lime water

Whether it is halal Chinese food or halal Nyonya cuisine, the Klang Valley area where Kuala Lumpur is located has the highest number of options in Malaysia. Just inside the NU Sentral mall opposite Kuala Lumpur Sentral station, there are three halal Nyonya restaurants, making it a great place for traveling friends (dosti) to grab a bite. We ate at the largest of the three, Peranakan Place, which has several branches in Kuala Lumpur and Malacca. We ordered the blue pea flower tea and barley lime water, both of which were very unique.







Singapore

Chee Kong clear soup (qing tang)

Geylang Serai is located near the Geylang River in eastern Singapore. The Geylang Serai Malay bazaar (market) dates back to the 1920s. During World War II, the Japanese turned it into an amusement park, but after the war, it returned to being a bustling Malay bazaar where local Malay residents come to shop. The only Chinese stall in the bazaar is Chee Kong clear soup (qing tang), an old shop that opened in the 1950s. You can add longan, sweet potato, and ginkgo nuts to the clear soup, and it can be served hot or cold. Drinking a bowl of clear soup is very refreshing after eating spicy Malay food.









Three-layer milk tea

Haig Road Market & Food Centre has a lot of Malay delicacies. We drank the classic three-layer milk tea, which uses palm sugar, milk, and black tea to create three distinct layers with a rich taste.







Pulled tea (teh tarik) and Milo Dinosaur

We had a cup of the classic Nanyang pulled tea (teh tarik) at Tarik, a shop next to the Sultan Mosque in Kampong Glam. Local Malay youth really love this place. Tarik means 'pull' in Malay. By mixing black tea and condensed milk and pouring it back and forth between two containers with outstretched arms, the tea cools down and becomes frothy. We also ordered a cup of Milo, which is a chocolate malt powder from Nestlé. People in Malaysia and Singapore like to sprinkle Milo powder on iced Milo, which they call Milo Dinosaur.











Ginger tea

Bhai Sarbat on Baghdad Street was started by an Indian Muslim in the 1950s and has been around for 70 years. Bhai means brother in Urdu. Bhai Sarbat started as a street pushcart stall and moved into this shophouse on Baghdad Street in the 1970s. Today it sells hundreds of drinks, but the ginger tea is still the most famous.





Indonesia

Yogyakarta

Es Dawet Ayu

Es Dawet Ayu is a specialty iced drink from Central Java that comes from the small town of Banjarnegara. Its main ingredients are rice flour, glutinous rice flour, coconut milk, palm sugar syrup, and grass jelly.











Dragon fruit juice

Freshly squeezed dragon fruit juice on the streets of Yogyakarta. The juices in Java are really rich.





Sekoteng

Sekoteng is a Javanese specialty hot ginger drink made with peanuts, bread slices, and pearl flowers. Hot drinks are still quite rare in Java. It feels like the ginger helps remove dampness.





Solo

Es Dawet Telasih

Es Dawet Telasih is a Solo specialty iced drink made of coconut milk, palm sugar, cendol (rice flour jelly), bubur sumsum (coconut rice pudding), basil seeds, and black glutinous rice.





Es Dawet Durian is Es Dawet Telasih with durian added.





Jamu

Jamu is a specialty Javanese drink, which is a traditional Javanese herbal medicine mixed with honey and palm sugar.



Kudus

Es Buah

I drank Es Buah, a Javanese iced drink with various fruits added, in Kudus.







Banten

Mixed ice drink (Es Campur)

As a holy site, the Great Mosque of Banten attracts a constant stream of visitors every day, and a very lively bazaar has formed around it. At the bazaar, I drank a mixed ice drink (Es Campur) made with coconut milk, red sugar syrup, coconut meat, and fruit jelly.







Jakarta

Layered rice flour drink (Selendang Mayang)

Jakarta Old Town (Kota Tua Jakarta), also called Old Batavia (Oud Batavia), was the most important Dutch colonial outpost in Southeast Asia and served as the headquarters for the Dutch East India Company from the 17th to the 19th century. The center of Old Batavia is Fatahillah Square, where the main building is the Jakarta History Museum. The Jakarta History Museum was built in 1710 and was formerly the Batavia City Hall. The museum courtyard has a small area dedicated to traditional Betawi snacks, where I drank a rare, historic Batavian ice drink called layered rice flour drink (Selendang Mayang). Layered rice flour drink (Selendang Mayang) is made from rice flour, vanilla powder, pandan leaves, red sugar syrup, and coconut milk.

The Betawi people are a unique ethnic group that formed in Jakarta. In 1619, the Dutch established Batavia as the trade and administrative center for the Dutch East India Company. After the Dutch East India Company signed a formal peace treaty with the Sultanate of Banten in 1684, the swampy areas around Batavia could finally be cultivated. More and more people lived outside the city walls, including Malays, Sundanese, Javanese, Minangkabau, and Bugis people. Between the 18th and 19th centuries, the various ethnic groups living in Batavia began to merge. Over the course of a hundred years, they finally formed the modern Betawi people by the early 20th century. The Betawi people speak a version of Malay mixed with many words from Fujian Chinese, Arabic, and Dutch, known as Betawi Malay. It is the only Malay-speaking region on the northern coast of Java. Betawi cuisine is also strongly influenced by Indonesian Chinese, Arab, European, and local Sundanese and Javanese food.





Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: This article follows a tasting route through drinks from Malaysia, Singapore, and Indonesia, from street-side juices to regional bottled drinks and cafe favorites. It keeps the original drink names, places, prices, photos, and travel notes for readers looking for everyday food culture in Southeast Asia.

Malaysia

Malacca: avocado juice, longan lemon tea, and lime plum juice (lime plum shuizhi).

Penang: sour plum guava juice, Penang nutmeg water, and Arabian rose water.

Seremban: lychee water.

Kuala Lumpur: blue pea flower tea and barley lime water.

Singapore

Clear soup (chee kong), three-layer milk tea, pulled tea (teh tarik), Milo dinosaur, and ginger tea.

Indonesia

Yogyakarta: cendol drink (es dawet ayu), dragon fruit juice, and ginger herbal drink (sekoteng).

Solo: basil seed cendol (es dawet telasih), durian cendol (es dawet durian), and herbal medicine (jamu).

Kudus: fruit ice (es buah).

Banten: mixed ice dessert (es campur).

Jakarta: layered rice flour jelly drink (selendang mayang).

Malaysia

Malacca

Avocado juice

Across from Dataran Pahlawan in Malacca, there is a large Malay night market that seems to open only on weekends, offering endless varieties of snacks. We had just finished a meal and were too full to eat, so we bought a huge avocado juice. Tropical fruits are cheap all over Malaysia. As long as you don't buy durian in tourist areas, you can basically eat as much fruit as you want.





Longan lemon tea

In Kampung Hulu, there is a lovely cake shop called Malaiqa By Gula Cakery that is very popular with young people. The shop is located in a shophouse built in 1941. The decor is fresh and simple, showing a great example of revitalizing the old city. We ordered the longan lemon tea, and it tasted great. These fresh, small shops in Malaysia are really wonderful, though we usually go for traditional food and don't visit places like this very often.









Lime plum drink (juzi suanmei shui)

As the birthplace of Nyonya culture, you must try Nyonya food when visiting Malacca. There are many halal Nyonya restaurants on the east side of Malacca's old town along Merdeka Street (Jln Merdeka), with Atlantic and Cottage Spices being the most famous. Both places had lines when we arrived, so we took numbers for both. Cottage Spices had an opening first, so we ate there. We ordered the lime plum drink (juzi suanmei shui), which was tart and very appetizing.









Penang

Sour plum guava juice

Lagenda Cafe in Penang is a themed restaurant honoring the godfather of Malay film and music, P. Ramlee (1929-1973), and it plays his classic songs on a loop. We drank Asam Boi & Guava Tea, made with lime, mint, black tea, sour plum, and fresh-pressed guava juice; it was very refreshing and smooth.







Penang nutmeg drink and Arabian rose water (sherbet)

A unique group called Jawi Peranakan lives in Penang and Singapore. They are a Malay-speaking community formed by the intermarriage of Indian (as well as Arab and Persian) men and Malay women. "Jawi" means "Southeast Asia" in Arabic, and "Peranakan" means "locally born" in Malay.

After the 20th century, as the British Empire declined, the Jawi Peranakan community began to integrate into the Malay population. Today, the government counts most Jawi Peranakan as "Malay." Even so, the Jawi Peranakan community still works hard to pass on its unique culture, which shows in their architecture, clothing, jewelry, and food.

Today, the best place in Penang to experience Jawi Peranakan culture is the Jawi House Cafe Gallery. The building was originally a Straits Eclectic-style Chinese shophouse built in the 1860s with Malay-style decorations, and it later served as an Indian coppersmith shop. The street where the shop is located, Armenian Street (Lebuh Armenian, formerly Malay lane), was the earliest settlement area for the Jawi Peranakan community. In 2012, the Karim family, who have lived in Penang for six generations and have Punjabi roots, opened Jawi House here to make authentic Jawi Peranakan food.

We drank the Penang Nutmeg and Arabian Sherbet here. Nutmeg is a local Penang specialty, and this drink is mixed with honey and lemon for a sweet and sour taste.

Sherbet comes from the Persian word "Sharbat," which means a non-alcoholic sugary drink. In medieval Arabia, people loved to add syrup and honey to Sharbat for sweetness, along with almonds, lemon, apple, pomegranate, tamarind, dates, sumac, musk, and mint. Spread by Arabs and Persians, Sharbat is now popular across West Asia, South Asia, and the Malay Archipelago, especially during Ramadan. The Arabian Sherbet at Jawi House is made with rose syrup, mallow nuts, gum arabic, and basil seeds, giving it a very rich flavor.







Hibiscus

Lychee water

Mohd Chan is likely the most famous and largest halal Cantonese restaurant chain in Malaysia, now with 19 locations including restaurants, dim sum shops, and takeout spots. The founder of Mohd Chan, Dato HJ Mohd Chan, was born in Gombak, Selangor. Influenced by his Malay friends, he converted to Islam in 2007 and started his halal Cantonese restaurant that same year, focusing on blending Cantonese cuisine with local flavors. We drank their lychee water, which was packed with plenty of ingredients.







Kuala Lumpur

Blue pea flower tea and barley lime water

Whether it is halal Chinese food or halal Nyonya cuisine, the Klang Valley area where Kuala Lumpur is located has the highest number of options in Malaysia. Just inside the NU Sentral mall opposite Kuala Lumpur Sentral station, there are three halal Nyonya restaurants, making it a great place for traveling friends (dosti) to grab a bite. We ate at the largest of the three, Peranakan Place, which has several branches in Kuala Lumpur and Malacca. We ordered the blue pea flower tea and barley lime water, both of which were very unique.







Singapore

Chee Kong clear soup (qing tang)

Geylang Serai is located near the Geylang River in eastern Singapore. The Geylang Serai Malay bazaar (market) dates back to the 1920s. During World War II, the Japanese turned it into an amusement park, but after the war, it returned to being a bustling Malay bazaar where local Malay residents come to shop. The only Chinese stall in the bazaar is Chee Kong clear soup (qing tang), an old shop that opened in the 1950s. You can add longan, sweet potato, and ginkgo nuts to the clear soup, and it can be served hot or cold. Drinking a bowl of clear soup is very refreshing after eating spicy Malay food.









Three-layer milk tea

Haig Road Market & Food Centre has a lot of Malay delicacies. We drank the classic three-layer milk tea, which uses palm sugar, milk, and black tea to create three distinct layers with a rich taste.







Pulled tea (teh tarik) and Milo Dinosaur

We had a cup of the classic Nanyang pulled tea (teh tarik) at Tarik, a shop next to the Sultan Mosque in Kampong Glam. Local Malay youth really love this place. Tarik means 'pull' in Malay. By mixing black tea and condensed milk and pouring it back and forth between two containers with outstretched arms, the tea cools down and becomes frothy. We also ordered a cup of Milo, which is a chocolate malt powder from Nestlé. People in Malaysia and Singapore like to sprinkle Milo powder on iced Milo, which they call Milo Dinosaur.











Ginger tea

Bhai Sarbat on Baghdad Street was started by an Indian Muslim in the 1950s and has been around for 70 years. Bhai means brother in Urdu. Bhai Sarbat started as a street pushcart stall and moved into this shophouse on Baghdad Street in the 1970s. Today it sells hundreds of drinks, but the ginger tea is still the most famous.





Indonesia

Yogyakarta

Es Dawet Ayu

Es Dawet Ayu is a specialty iced drink from Central Java that comes from the small town of Banjarnegara. Its main ingredients are rice flour, glutinous rice flour, coconut milk, palm sugar syrup, and grass jelly.











Dragon fruit juice

Freshly squeezed dragon fruit juice on the streets of Yogyakarta. The juices in Java are really rich.





Sekoteng

Sekoteng is a Javanese specialty hot ginger drink made with peanuts, bread slices, and pearl flowers. Hot drinks are still quite rare in Java. It feels like the ginger helps remove dampness.





Solo

Es Dawet Telasih

Es Dawet Telasih is a Solo specialty iced drink made of coconut milk, palm sugar, cendol (rice flour jelly), bubur sumsum (coconut rice pudding), basil seeds, and black glutinous rice.





Es Dawet Durian is Es Dawet Telasih with durian added.





Jamu

Jamu is a specialty Javanese drink, which is a traditional Javanese herbal medicine mixed with honey and palm sugar.



Kudus

Es Buah

I drank Es Buah, a Javanese iced drink with various fruits added, in Kudus.







Banten

Mixed ice drink (Es Campur)

As a holy site, the Great Mosque of Banten attracts a constant stream of visitors every day, and a very lively bazaar has formed around it. At the bazaar, I drank a mixed ice drink (Es Campur) made with coconut milk, red sugar syrup, coconut meat, and fruit jelly.







Jakarta

Layered rice flour drink (Selendang Mayang)

Jakarta Old Town (Kota Tua Jakarta), also called Old Batavia (Oud Batavia), was the most important Dutch colonial outpost in Southeast Asia and served as the headquarters for the Dutch East India Company from the 17th to the 19th century. The center of Old Batavia is Fatahillah Square, where the main building is the Jakarta History Museum. The Jakarta History Museum was built in 1710 and was formerly the Batavia City Hall. The museum courtyard has a small area dedicated to traditional Betawi snacks, where I drank a rare, historic Batavian ice drink called layered rice flour drink (Selendang Mayang). Layered rice flour drink (Selendang Mayang) is made from rice flour, vanilla powder, pandan leaves, red sugar syrup, and coconut milk.

The Betawi people are a unique ethnic group that formed in Jakarta. In 1619, the Dutch established Batavia as the trade and administrative center for the Dutch East India Company. After the Dutch East India Company signed a formal peace treaty with the Sultanate of Banten in 1684, the swampy areas around Batavia could finally be cultivated. More and more people lived outside the city walls, including Malays, Sundanese, Javanese, Minangkabau, and Bugis people. Between the 18th and 19th centuries, the various ethnic groups living in Batavia began to merge. Over the course of a hundred years, they finally formed the modern Betawi people by the early 20th century. The Betawi people speak a version of Malay mixed with many words from Fujian Chinese, Arabic, and Dutch, known as Betawi Malay. It is the only Malay-speaking region on the northern coast of Java. Betawi cuisine is also strongly influenced by Indonesian Chinese, Arab, European, and local Sundanese and Javanese food.





Collapse Read »

Muslim Travel Guide Liaoning Dandong: Fengcheng Mosque Visit and Local Halal Food

Reposted from the web

Summary: Halal Travel Guide: Fengcheng and Dandong - Mosque Visit and Liaoning Food is presented here as a firsthand travel account in clear, natural English. The account focuses on Fengcheng, Dandong, Liaoning Travel while preserving the names, places, food, photos, and historical details from the Chinese source.

On June 9 at noon, we headed east from Dalian toward Dandong. We arrived at Fengcheng East Station at 12:14 and took a taxi to the center of Fengcheng for lunch. We first went to a restaurant called Nanlaishun, but we found braised lamb blood on the menu, so we went to another place called Wenbin Snack Bar instead.

We ordered the local Dandong specialty stir-fried corn noodles (chao chazi), along with eight-treasure porridge with corn grits (dazhazi babaozhou) and a 6-yuan vegetable platter. The vegetable platter included stir-fried potato, eggplant, and pepper (di san xian), cucumber with scrambled eggs, and stir-fried dried tofu. I noticed other people just ordering one vegetable platter with rice, which is a great deal.

Stir-fried corn noodles (chao chazi) are made by fermenting corn and grinding it into a liquid, then taking the settled corn starch residue and pressing it into noodles before stir-frying. These noodles are a classic example of turning coarse grains into a refined dish. They have a smooth, delicate texture without any of the usual grittiness of corn flour, and they taste quite good.

Zainab really loved their eight-treasure porridge with corn grits (dazhazi babaozhou). She even said it was her favorite thing she ate during her entire trip to Liaoning. The eight-treasure porridge with corn grits (dazhazi babaozhou) contains almost no rice, just a wide variety of beans. They are very generous with the ingredients, making it a perfect choice for people who want a healthy meal.













After finishing our stir-fried noodles (chao chazi), we went to Fengcheng Mosque to pray. The imam at Fengcheng Mosque is also from Cangzhou.

Fengcheng Mosque was first built in 1775, during the 40th year of the Qianlong reign. It was renovated in 1862, the first year of the Tongzhi reign. In 1876, the second year of the Guangxu reign, the north lecture hall was rebuilt and side rooms were added. In 1890, the 16th year of the Guangxu reign, the Moon-Sighting Tower (Wangyue Lou) was built, giving the mosque its current size.

The most unique part of Fengcheng Mosque is the Moon-Sighting Tower, built during the Guangxu reign. It has a double-eaved, four-cornered, pointed roof with beautiful upturned eaves, brackets, and intricate openwork carvings.



















The mosque features 300-year-old cypress trees and a stone tablet from the Guangxu renovations. The wood carvings on the brackets and the brick calligraphy carvings on the wall corners are also very beautiful.



















Outside the mosque, there are shops selling beef, pastries, roasted chicken, and instructions on how to boil sweet rice balls (yuanxiao). We bought some old-fashioned Northeast-style plain biscuits (guangtou bing). They get tastier the more you chew, with a subtle sweetness that lingers.















We left Fengcheng East Station at 3:39 PM and arrived at Dandong Station at 3:56 PM. We then walked to Pier 2 to take a Yalu River cruise. From the boat, you can see the shipyards, amusement park, old paper mill site, General's Building, schools, and various hidden and visible guard posts in Sinuiju, North Korea, on the other side. We were surprised to see a person swimming across the Yalu River all the way to the North Korean side, and he even waved at us.























Dandong Mosque (Dandong Si) was first built in 1876, and the current building was rebuilt in 2004. The sign at the entrance of the mosque is very rare.

The storefronts of Dandong Mosque are very busy. On the first floor are two old shops, Yixiang and Yiguang, which sell various traditional pastries, mooncakes (yuebing), and sticky rice dumplings (zongzi). Upstairs is the Yixiang Nursing Home, which is open to elderly people of all ethnic groups.



















In the afternoon, we had dinner at the long-established Jinlongge Restaurant in Dandong. They serve a wide variety of traditional stir-fried dishes and seafood. We ordered oyster soup (ligeng tang), braised mixed fish (jiangmen zabanyü), and Northeast-style cold noodles (dongbei da lengmian), and we also drank the local Yalu River soda. Northeast Chinese food comes in huge portions! We used our fists to compare the size of the plates, and one dish is more than enough for two people.

The food here tastes great overall; the large cold noodles (lengmian) are chewy, the fish is fragrant, and the meat quality is excellent. The oyster soup (ligeng tang) is very savory and does not have a fishy smell.

















Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: Halal Travel Guide: Fengcheng and Dandong - Mosque Visit and Liaoning Food is presented here as a firsthand travel account in clear, natural English. The account focuses on Fengcheng, Dandong, Liaoning Travel while preserving the names, places, food, photos, and historical details from the Chinese source.

On June 9 at noon, we headed east from Dalian toward Dandong. We arrived at Fengcheng East Station at 12:14 and took a taxi to the center of Fengcheng for lunch. We first went to a restaurant called Nanlaishun, but we found braised lamb blood on the menu, so we went to another place called Wenbin Snack Bar instead.

We ordered the local Dandong specialty stir-fried corn noodles (chao chazi), along with eight-treasure porridge with corn grits (dazhazi babaozhou) and a 6-yuan vegetable platter. The vegetable platter included stir-fried potato, eggplant, and pepper (di san xian), cucumber with scrambled eggs, and stir-fried dried tofu. I noticed other people just ordering one vegetable platter with rice, which is a great deal.

Stir-fried corn noodles (chao chazi) are made by fermenting corn and grinding it into a liquid, then taking the settled corn starch residue and pressing it into noodles before stir-frying. These noodles are a classic example of turning coarse grains into a refined dish. They have a smooth, delicate texture without any of the usual grittiness of corn flour, and they taste quite good.

Zainab really loved their eight-treasure porridge with corn grits (dazhazi babaozhou). She even said it was her favorite thing she ate during her entire trip to Liaoning. The eight-treasure porridge with corn grits (dazhazi babaozhou) contains almost no rice, just a wide variety of beans. They are very generous with the ingredients, making it a perfect choice for people who want a healthy meal.













After finishing our stir-fried noodles (chao chazi), we went to Fengcheng Mosque to pray. The imam at Fengcheng Mosque is also from Cangzhou.

Fengcheng Mosque was first built in 1775, during the 40th year of the Qianlong reign. It was renovated in 1862, the first year of the Tongzhi reign. In 1876, the second year of the Guangxu reign, the north lecture hall was rebuilt and side rooms were added. In 1890, the 16th year of the Guangxu reign, the Moon-Sighting Tower (Wangyue Lou) was built, giving the mosque its current size.

The most unique part of Fengcheng Mosque is the Moon-Sighting Tower, built during the Guangxu reign. It has a double-eaved, four-cornered, pointed roof with beautiful upturned eaves, brackets, and intricate openwork carvings.



















The mosque features 300-year-old cypress trees and a stone tablet from the Guangxu renovations. The wood carvings on the brackets and the brick calligraphy carvings on the wall corners are also very beautiful.



















Outside the mosque, there are shops selling beef, pastries, roasted chicken, and instructions on how to boil sweet rice balls (yuanxiao). We bought some old-fashioned Northeast-style plain biscuits (guangtou bing). They get tastier the more you chew, with a subtle sweetness that lingers.















We left Fengcheng East Station at 3:39 PM and arrived at Dandong Station at 3:56 PM. We then walked to Pier 2 to take a Yalu River cruise. From the boat, you can see the shipyards, amusement park, old paper mill site, General's Building, schools, and various hidden and visible guard posts in Sinuiju, North Korea, on the other side. We were surprised to see a person swimming across the Yalu River all the way to the North Korean side, and he even waved at us.























Dandong Mosque (Dandong Si) was first built in 1876, and the current building was rebuilt in 2004. The sign at the entrance of the mosque is very rare.

The storefronts of Dandong Mosque are very busy. On the first floor are two old shops, Yixiang and Yiguang, which sell various traditional pastries, mooncakes (yuebing), and sticky rice dumplings (zongzi). Upstairs is the Yixiang Nursing Home, which is open to elderly people of all ethnic groups.



















In the afternoon, we had dinner at the long-established Jinlongge Restaurant in Dandong. They serve a wide variety of traditional stir-fried dishes and seafood. We ordered oyster soup (ligeng tang), braised mixed fish (jiangmen zabanyü), and Northeast-style cold noodles (dongbei da lengmian), and we also drank the local Yalu River soda. Northeast Chinese food comes in huge portions! We used our fists to compare the size of the plates, and one dish is more than enough for two people.

The food here tastes great overall; the large cold noodles (lengmian) are chewy, the fish is fragrant, and the meat quality is excellent. The oyster soup (ligeng tang) is very savory and does not have a fishy smell.

















Collapse Read »

Muslim Travel Guide Liaoning Dalian: Ancient City Streets, Mosques and Muslim Heritage

Reposted from the web

Summary: Halal Travel Guide: Dalian, Fuzhou Ancient City and Qingdui Ancient Town is presented here as a firsthand travel account in clear, natural English. The account focuses on Dalian, Liaoning Travel, Ancient Towns while preserving the names, places, food, photos, and historical details from the Chinese source.

On the morning of June 8, we took a high-speed train from Shenyang Railway Station and arrived at Wafangdian West Station in Dalian in an hour and a half. After leaving the station, we shared a ride for 20 minutes to reach the ancient town of Fuzhou.

We first stopped at the Qunfangyuan Restaurant near the Fuzhou town roundabout to eat some traditional Fuzhou old-style dishes (Fuzhou laocai). Fuzhou is a thousand-year-old town established during the Liao Dynasty. Since the Ming and Qing dynasties, it has been a major commercial hub in southern Liaoning, attracting many merchants. It only began to lose its importance to Wafangdian along the railway line after the South Manchuria Railway was built in modern times. Around 1641, the sixth year of the Chongde reign of the Qing Dynasty, four Hui Muslim families—the Yin, Ma, Dai, and Hui families from Cangzhou, Hebei—moved to Fuzhou. Later, they worked with the local Manchu and Han people to develop the unique Fuzhou old-style dishes.

Fuzhou old-style dishes are known for their oil-fried meat (guoyourou), twice-cooked meat (huishaorou), braised meatballs (huiwanzi), dragon and tiger fight (longhudou), and fried crispy crackers (zhabaochui). Because portions of Northeast Chinese food are so large, we just ordered the most famous oil-fried meat to try. The Fuzhou version of oil-fried meat contains only meat with no side vegetables. It is seasoned with vinegar and garlic, giving it a salty, fresh, and sour taste that goes perfectly with rice.

Fuzhou oil-fried meat is also called the dish of ethnic unity. Legend has it that during the late Qing Dynasty, a soldier named Tuoerha from the Plain Blue Banner died in battle in southern Xinjiang, leaving his wife and children helpless in Fuzhou. One day, just before the Lunar New Year, a mother and her son were walking down the street. The boy was so drawn to the aroma from a restaurant that he refused to leave. The owner knew the boy's father had died for his country, so he invited them inside. He told the kitchen staff to prepare a dish of pure meat for them and to fry it an extra time. Because of this, double-fried meat (guoyourou) became a signature New Year dish for the people of Fuzhou.















After lunch, we went to Fuzhou Mosque (Fuzhou Si) to pray. The imam at Fuzhou Mosque is from Mengcun in Cangzhou, Hebei, which is a major tradition for the faith in Liaoning.

In the early Qing Dynasty, Hui Muslims with the surnames Yin, Dai, Ma, and Hui moved to Fuzhou from Cangzhou. In 1649 (the sixth year of the Shunzhi reign), they began building Fuzhou Mosque. By 1656 (the thirteenth year of the Shunzhi reign), they had finished three thatched rooms to serve as the main prayer hall. The main hall was rebuilt in 1774 (the thirty-ninth year of the Qianlong reign) and expanded again in 1880 (the sixth year of the Guangxu reign), though it still had a thatched roof. In 1920, the front porch and rear kiln-style hall were added, and the roof was changed to blue brick tiles, creating the structure seen today.



















Hanging in front of the main hall of Fuzhou Mosque is a plaque that reads "Returning to Simplicity and Truth" (Huan Pu Gui Zhen). It was presented in 1897 (the twenty-third year of the Guangxu reign) by Wang Tingxiang, a third-rank official, imperial censor, and scholar of the Hanlin Academy.







Additionally, the brick carvings on the wall ends feature traditional calligraphy of a dua.







Hui Muslim homes inside Fuzhou City. The old street features blue bricks and dark roof tiles, with Arabic calligraphy (jingzi) and dua written on the walls, keeping the look of the past. Many people have moved to Wafangdian and Dalian to live, so the old street has become quiet.



















There is a legendary halal food spot in Fuzhou City, which is my friend's family business, Yin's sticky rice cake (jiangmi lianggao). The Yin family of Fuzhou originally came from Qing County in Cangzhou and settled in Fuzhou during the early Qing Dynasty. The sticky rice cake made by my friend's great-uncle, Yin Xiangzhou, was famous in Fuzhou a hundred years ago, and now my friend's mother pushes a small cart to sell it along the street every day. A loudspeaker plays, 'Sticky rice cake, fragrant and sweet.' Then everyone comes out to buy the sticky rice cake.

Sticky rice cake (jiangmi lianggao) is made by topping sticky rice with fillings like peanuts, sesame, and sugar. Traditionally, it included candied green and red fruit strips (qinghongsi), but these are now left out to suit younger tastes. Sticky rice cake is very refreshing in the summer, and it feels great on the stomach when paired with tea.

A quick tip: some people say the Yin family pushcart is hard to find. We spotted it at 2:15 p.m. at the intersection west of the Fuzhou Prefectural Office (Fuzhou Zhizhou Yashu). It then moves south along the main road, and you can hear the vendor calling out from far away.















We took the high-speed train from Wafangdian West Station at 3:30 p.m., arrived at Dalian North Station at 4:00 p.m., and then took a taxi to our accommodation to drop off our luggage.

We stayed at the No. 21 Mansion (Ershiyi Hao Gongguan) near the Russian Style Street. The hotel sits in a courtyard that is part of the Yantai Street Russian-style building complex, which includes 28 European-style villas and marks the starting point of Dalian's history. In 1898, Tsarist Russia leased Dalian Bay and began building Dalian city the following year. The first street built was called Engineer Street, which is now known as Russian Style Street. Soon after, Timov Street was built right next to Engineer Street, and it was renamed Yantai Street after 1946. Between the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Tsarist Russia hired German and Russian designers to build a series of European-style villas on Yantai Street, and 28 of them still stand today.

After the Russian-style building complex on Yantai Street was restored in 2011, several hotels and restaurants moved in. When we visited, several places were hosting weddings, which felt a bit like the Italian Style Street in Tianjin. Several villas in the courtyard belong to the Dalian Railway 1896 Garden Hotel, which you can stay in at any time. The No. 21 Mansion where we stayed is military property and only opens during holidays, but you can book it online.

Building No. 21 was built in 1903 and designed by the famous German architect Jan Hendel. In 1920, early labor movement leader and Manchurian Provincial Committee Secretary Wang Ligong lived here. The house we stayed in had windows on both the north and south sides, making the environment very pleasant. The courtyard was very quiet, which was a sharp contrast to the busy Russian-style street next door.



















In the afternoon, we had dinner at the long-established Majia Dumpling Restaurant in front of Dalian Railway Station. We ordered sea snail and chive dumplings (haoluo jiucai jiaozi), mackerel ball soup (bayu wanzi tang), and dry-braised flatfish (gan shao piankou yu). Traditionally, Hui Muslims in North and Northeast China do not cook seafood; they focus on beef and lamb. They only started making seafood dumplings after the Reform and Opening-up, and it gradually became a local specialty. They serve dumplings with yellow mustard sauce, which is very unique and adds a great kick to the flavor. The dry-braised flatfish was also well-prepared, with a sweet and spicy taste that really whets the appetite. People who ate at their original shop say the dumplings were even better decades ago, and I can really understand that sense of nostalgia. But as travelers, we are already very happy to be able to eat these dumplings.

Ma Family Dumpling Restaurant (Ma Jia Jiaozi Guan) was the first halal dumpling shop in Dalian and one of the city's two earliest dumpling restaurants. It was opened in 1947 by Liu Yushan, Ma Baishi, and Zhao Fangchen at the Bo'ai Market in Xigang. It was originally called Ruixianghao Hui Muslim Dumpling Restaurant before changing its name to Ma Family Dumpling Restaurant. After the Reform and Opening-up, the restaurant moved to the former site of the Goubuli Steamed Bun Shop on Tianjin Street. It moved to its current location after the renovation of Tianjin Street in the early 21st century. At first, the restaurant only served beef dumplings. After the Reform and Opening-up, seafood dumplings appeared in Dalian, so the restaurant started making new varieties like mackerel dumplings (bayu jiaozi) and sea snail dumplings (hailuo jiaozi).



















After dinner, we headed to the Dalian Mosque (Dalian Si) on Beijing Street. After Dalian opened as a port in 1897, Hui Muslims from places like Shandong and Hebei came here to make a living. Ma Xinglong, Wang Qifa, Jin Xiangchen, and others first rented a few small rooms on Dalong Street in Xigang to perform their prayers. In 1925, a Russian Muslim working for the South Manchuria Railway (Mantie) secured funding and land from the company to build the Dalian Mosque in a traditional Kazan Tatar style.

The original Dalian Mosque looked very similar to Tatar mosques in Kazan, Russia, featuring a neoclassical main hall and two minarets at the front and back. The minbar pulpit inside the main hall has stairs that lead directly to the minaret on the roof, which is very rare for a traditional mosque in China.

This Kazan Tatar-style Dalian Mosque stood for 64 years, was rebuilt in 1990, and finally expanded into its current structure in 2005.



















I left Dalian Station at 6:20 on June 9, arrived at Qingdui Station at 8:00, and then took a taxi to the ancient town of Qingdui to visit Qingdui Mosque.

Qingdui Town is a thousand-year-old town that has served as a fishing port and commercial hub on the Liaodong Peninsula since the Tang Dynasty. Qingbu Port officially opened in 1743 (the eighth year of the Qianlong reign), making Qingdui Town an important transit point for people from Shandong and Hebei moving to Northeast China. During the late Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China era, Qingdui Town had over three hundred businesses, with shops lining the streets and bustling with activity. Today, Qingdui Town still keeps many old houses with grey bricks and dark tiles from the late Qing and Republican periods, and Qingdui Mosque is one of them.

Qingdui Mosque was first built during the Daoguang reign of the Qing Dynasty and started as just three thatched huts. The First Sino-Japanese War began in July 1894. Famous Hui Muslim general Zuo Baogui led his troops to Korea to fight the Japanese and passed by Qingdui Mosque (Qingdui Si). General Zuo Baogui and the imam of Qingdui Mosque, Zhang Chaozhen, got along very well. Later, the general donated money himself. Along with funds raised by his personal Hui Muslim guards and three local halal restaurants—Deshengyuan, Qingshengyuan, and Yongshengyuan—they prepared to expand the mosque. Sadly, before the expansion was finished, General Zuo Baogui died heroically while fighting the Japanese in Pyongyang.

In 1895 (the 21st year of the Guangxu reign), Hui Wanchun, the elder in charge of Qingdui Mosque, oversaw the rebuilding of the main hall into the three-room green brick and tile structure seen today. In 1920 (the 9th year of the Republic of China), the gate tower was rebuilt and the lecture hall was expanded, giving the mosque its current size.

The gate of Qingdui Mosque features a brick-carved couplet that reads: 'The pure palace spreads the teachings of the Quran and the path of Muhammad; the true sage passes down scriptures that bring the grace of the Western Regions to this place.' This is a very precious piece of brick-carved calligraphy from the Republic of China era. The main gate is usually closed, so you must enter the mosque through the south wing where the imam lives. The imam came from Gansu and warmly told us about the situation at Qingdui Mosque (Qingdui Si). It is not easy for his family to stay and serve at this small community mosque (xiaofang).



















Hui Muslim homes in the ancient town of Qingdui. Because Qingbu Port silted up and closed, the ancient town of Qingdui gradually became quiet, and the town center moved to the area near the road to the north. There are a few halal restaurants in town. We ordered lamb soup at one of them, Jinhong Lamb Soup Restaurant (Jinhong Yangtang Guan), but when it arrived, we found it contained lamb blood. I had heard long ago that some halal restaurants in Shandong and Northeast China sell lamb blood, but this is the first time I have encountered it in years. We had no choice but to return the lamb soup and take a taxi to the train station to continue our trip to the next stop.

















Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: Halal Travel Guide: Dalian, Fuzhou Ancient City and Qingdui Ancient Town is presented here as a firsthand travel account in clear, natural English. The account focuses on Dalian, Liaoning Travel, Ancient Towns while preserving the names, places, food, photos, and historical details from the Chinese source.

On the morning of June 8, we took a high-speed train from Shenyang Railway Station and arrived at Wafangdian West Station in Dalian in an hour and a half. After leaving the station, we shared a ride for 20 minutes to reach the ancient town of Fuzhou.

We first stopped at the Qunfangyuan Restaurant near the Fuzhou town roundabout to eat some traditional Fuzhou old-style dishes (Fuzhou laocai). Fuzhou is a thousand-year-old town established during the Liao Dynasty. Since the Ming and Qing dynasties, it has been a major commercial hub in southern Liaoning, attracting many merchants. It only began to lose its importance to Wafangdian along the railway line after the South Manchuria Railway was built in modern times. Around 1641, the sixth year of the Chongde reign of the Qing Dynasty, four Hui Muslim families—the Yin, Ma, Dai, and Hui families from Cangzhou, Hebei—moved to Fuzhou. Later, they worked with the local Manchu and Han people to develop the unique Fuzhou old-style dishes.

Fuzhou old-style dishes are known for their oil-fried meat (guoyourou), twice-cooked meat (huishaorou), braised meatballs (huiwanzi), dragon and tiger fight (longhudou), and fried crispy crackers (zhabaochui). Because portions of Northeast Chinese food are so large, we just ordered the most famous oil-fried meat to try. The Fuzhou version of oil-fried meat contains only meat with no side vegetables. It is seasoned with vinegar and garlic, giving it a salty, fresh, and sour taste that goes perfectly with rice.

Fuzhou oil-fried meat is also called the dish of ethnic unity. Legend has it that during the late Qing Dynasty, a soldier named Tuoerha from the Plain Blue Banner died in battle in southern Xinjiang, leaving his wife and children helpless in Fuzhou. One day, just before the Lunar New Year, a mother and her son were walking down the street. The boy was so drawn to the aroma from a restaurant that he refused to leave. The owner knew the boy's father had died for his country, so he invited them inside. He told the kitchen staff to prepare a dish of pure meat for them and to fry it an extra time. Because of this, double-fried meat (guoyourou) became a signature New Year dish for the people of Fuzhou.















After lunch, we went to Fuzhou Mosque (Fuzhou Si) to pray. The imam at Fuzhou Mosque is from Mengcun in Cangzhou, Hebei, which is a major tradition for the faith in Liaoning.

In the early Qing Dynasty, Hui Muslims with the surnames Yin, Dai, Ma, and Hui moved to Fuzhou from Cangzhou. In 1649 (the sixth year of the Shunzhi reign), they began building Fuzhou Mosque. By 1656 (the thirteenth year of the Shunzhi reign), they had finished three thatched rooms to serve as the main prayer hall. The main hall was rebuilt in 1774 (the thirty-ninth year of the Qianlong reign) and expanded again in 1880 (the sixth year of the Guangxu reign), though it still had a thatched roof. In 1920, the front porch and rear kiln-style hall were added, and the roof was changed to blue brick tiles, creating the structure seen today.



















Hanging in front of the main hall of Fuzhou Mosque is a plaque that reads "Returning to Simplicity and Truth" (Huan Pu Gui Zhen). It was presented in 1897 (the twenty-third year of the Guangxu reign) by Wang Tingxiang, a third-rank official, imperial censor, and scholar of the Hanlin Academy.







Additionally, the brick carvings on the wall ends feature traditional calligraphy of a dua.







Hui Muslim homes inside Fuzhou City. The old street features blue bricks and dark roof tiles, with Arabic calligraphy (jingzi) and dua written on the walls, keeping the look of the past. Many people have moved to Wafangdian and Dalian to live, so the old street has become quiet.



















There is a legendary halal food spot in Fuzhou City, which is my friend's family business, Yin's sticky rice cake (jiangmi lianggao). The Yin family of Fuzhou originally came from Qing County in Cangzhou and settled in Fuzhou during the early Qing Dynasty. The sticky rice cake made by my friend's great-uncle, Yin Xiangzhou, was famous in Fuzhou a hundred years ago, and now my friend's mother pushes a small cart to sell it along the street every day. A loudspeaker plays, 'Sticky rice cake, fragrant and sweet.' Then everyone comes out to buy the sticky rice cake.

Sticky rice cake (jiangmi lianggao) is made by topping sticky rice with fillings like peanuts, sesame, and sugar. Traditionally, it included candied green and red fruit strips (qinghongsi), but these are now left out to suit younger tastes. Sticky rice cake is very refreshing in the summer, and it feels great on the stomach when paired with tea.

A quick tip: some people say the Yin family pushcart is hard to find. We spotted it at 2:15 p.m. at the intersection west of the Fuzhou Prefectural Office (Fuzhou Zhizhou Yashu). It then moves south along the main road, and you can hear the vendor calling out from far away.















We took the high-speed train from Wafangdian West Station at 3:30 p.m., arrived at Dalian North Station at 4:00 p.m., and then took a taxi to our accommodation to drop off our luggage.

We stayed at the No. 21 Mansion (Ershiyi Hao Gongguan) near the Russian Style Street. The hotel sits in a courtyard that is part of the Yantai Street Russian-style building complex, which includes 28 European-style villas and marks the starting point of Dalian's history. In 1898, Tsarist Russia leased Dalian Bay and began building Dalian city the following year. The first street built was called Engineer Street, which is now known as Russian Style Street. Soon after, Timov Street was built right next to Engineer Street, and it was renamed Yantai Street after 1946. Between the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Tsarist Russia hired German and Russian designers to build a series of European-style villas on Yantai Street, and 28 of them still stand today.

After the Russian-style building complex on Yantai Street was restored in 2011, several hotels and restaurants moved in. When we visited, several places were hosting weddings, which felt a bit like the Italian Style Street in Tianjin. Several villas in the courtyard belong to the Dalian Railway 1896 Garden Hotel, which you can stay in at any time. The No. 21 Mansion where we stayed is military property and only opens during holidays, but you can book it online.

Building No. 21 was built in 1903 and designed by the famous German architect Jan Hendel. In 1920, early labor movement leader and Manchurian Provincial Committee Secretary Wang Ligong lived here. The house we stayed in had windows on both the north and south sides, making the environment very pleasant. The courtyard was very quiet, which was a sharp contrast to the busy Russian-style street next door.



















In the afternoon, we had dinner at the long-established Majia Dumpling Restaurant in front of Dalian Railway Station. We ordered sea snail and chive dumplings (haoluo jiucai jiaozi), mackerel ball soup (bayu wanzi tang), and dry-braised flatfish (gan shao piankou yu). Traditionally, Hui Muslims in North and Northeast China do not cook seafood; they focus on beef and lamb. They only started making seafood dumplings after the Reform and Opening-up, and it gradually became a local specialty. They serve dumplings with yellow mustard sauce, which is very unique and adds a great kick to the flavor. The dry-braised flatfish was also well-prepared, with a sweet and spicy taste that really whets the appetite. People who ate at their original shop say the dumplings were even better decades ago, and I can really understand that sense of nostalgia. But as travelers, we are already very happy to be able to eat these dumplings.

Ma Family Dumpling Restaurant (Ma Jia Jiaozi Guan) was the first halal dumpling shop in Dalian and one of the city's two earliest dumpling restaurants. It was opened in 1947 by Liu Yushan, Ma Baishi, and Zhao Fangchen at the Bo'ai Market in Xigang. It was originally called Ruixianghao Hui Muslim Dumpling Restaurant before changing its name to Ma Family Dumpling Restaurant. After the Reform and Opening-up, the restaurant moved to the former site of the Goubuli Steamed Bun Shop on Tianjin Street. It moved to its current location after the renovation of Tianjin Street in the early 21st century. At first, the restaurant only served beef dumplings. After the Reform and Opening-up, seafood dumplings appeared in Dalian, so the restaurant started making new varieties like mackerel dumplings (bayu jiaozi) and sea snail dumplings (hailuo jiaozi).



















After dinner, we headed to the Dalian Mosque (Dalian Si) on Beijing Street. After Dalian opened as a port in 1897, Hui Muslims from places like Shandong and Hebei came here to make a living. Ma Xinglong, Wang Qifa, Jin Xiangchen, and others first rented a few small rooms on Dalong Street in Xigang to perform their prayers. In 1925, a Russian Muslim working for the South Manchuria Railway (Mantie) secured funding and land from the company to build the Dalian Mosque in a traditional Kazan Tatar style.

The original Dalian Mosque looked very similar to Tatar mosques in Kazan, Russia, featuring a neoclassical main hall and two minarets at the front and back. The minbar pulpit inside the main hall has stairs that lead directly to the minaret on the roof, which is very rare for a traditional mosque in China.

This Kazan Tatar-style Dalian Mosque stood for 64 years, was rebuilt in 1990, and finally expanded into its current structure in 2005.



















I left Dalian Station at 6:20 on June 9, arrived at Qingdui Station at 8:00, and then took a taxi to the ancient town of Qingdui to visit Qingdui Mosque.

Qingdui Town is a thousand-year-old town that has served as a fishing port and commercial hub on the Liaodong Peninsula since the Tang Dynasty. Qingbu Port officially opened in 1743 (the eighth year of the Qianlong reign), making Qingdui Town an important transit point for people from Shandong and Hebei moving to Northeast China. During the late Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China era, Qingdui Town had over three hundred businesses, with shops lining the streets and bustling with activity. Today, Qingdui Town still keeps many old houses with grey bricks and dark tiles from the late Qing and Republican periods, and Qingdui Mosque is one of them.

Qingdui Mosque was first built during the Daoguang reign of the Qing Dynasty and started as just three thatched huts. The First Sino-Japanese War began in July 1894. Famous Hui Muslim general Zuo Baogui led his troops to Korea to fight the Japanese and passed by Qingdui Mosque (Qingdui Si). General Zuo Baogui and the imam of Qingdui Mosque, Zhang Chaozhen, got along very well. Later, the general donated money himself. Along with funds raised by his personal Hui Muslim guards and three local halal restaurants—Deshengyuan, Qingshengyuan, and Yongshengyuan—they prepared to expand the mosque. Sadly, before the expansion was finished, General Zuo Baogui died heroically while fighting the Japanese in Pyongyang.

In 1895 (the 21st year of the Guangxu reign), Hui Wanchun, the elder in charge of Qingdui Mosque, oversaw the rebuilding of the main hall into the three-room green brick and tile structure seen today. In 1920 (the 9th year of the Republic of China), the gate tower was rebuilt and the lecture hall was expanded, giving the mosque its current size.

The gate of Qingdui Mosque features a brick-carved couplet that reads: 'The pure palace spreads the teachings of the Quran and the path of Muhammad; the true sage passes down scriptures that bring the grace of the Western Regions to this place.' This is a very precious piece of brick-carved calligraphy from the Republic of China era. The main gate is usually closed, so you must enter the mosque through the south wing where the imam lives. The imam came from Gansu and warmly told us about the situation at Qingdui Mosque (Qingdui Si). It is not easy for his family to stay and serve at this small community mosque (xiaofang).



















Hui Muslim homes in the ancient town of Qingdui. Because Qingbu Port silted up and closed, the ancient town of Qingdui gradually became quiet, and the town center moved to the area near the road to the north. There are a few halal restaurants in town. We ordered lamb soup at one of them, Jinhong Lamb Soup Restaurant (Jinhong Yangtang Guan), but when it arrived, we found it contained lamb blood. I had heard long ago that some halal restaurants in Shandong and Northeast China sell lamb blood, but this is the first time I have encountered it in years. We had no choice but to return the lamb soup and take a taxi to the train station to continue our trip to the next stop.

















Collapse Read »

Muslim History Guide Quanzhou: Maritime Museum Islamic Stone Inscriptions (Part 1)

Reposted from the web

Summary: Islamic Art Guide: Quanzhou Maritime Museum Song-Yuan Stone Inscriptions (Part 1) is presented here as a firsthand travel account in clear, natural English. The account focuses on Quanzhou, Islamic Art, Stone Inscriptions while preserving the names, places, food, photos, and historical details from the Chinese source.

The Quanzhou Maritime Museum was built in 1959. The Quanzhou Islamic Culture Exhibition Hall opened in 2003, and the 'Arabs and Persians in Quanzhou' exhibition launched in 2008, featuring over 200 stone carvings from the Song and Yuan dynasties. I visited the 'Arabs and Persians in Quanzhou' exhibition in 2017. Returning seven years later, the layout has not changed much, but some of the most iconic stone tablets, such as the tombstone of 'Consul Pan,' have been moved to the 'Quanzhou: World Maritime Trade Center in Song and Yuan China' exhibition, with replicas now in their place.









Tombstone

The largest category of Song and Yuan dynasty Islamic stone carvings in the museum's collection is tombstones.





The tombstone in the picture below was once used as a stone tabletop under the eaves of Yuanshan Hall (later renamed Fentuoshi) on Zhongshan Middle Road in Quanzhou. It is said to have been moved there in 1952 when building materials were purchased from the city's East Gate wall foundations for construction. Ms. Wu Yuanying donated it to the museum in 1965.

The person buried is named Husayn b. Muhammad Khalati. Khalati refers to the ancient city of Ahlat in what is now southeastern Turkey. Historically, Ahlat was part of the Armenian Kingdom, was occupied by Arabs in the mid-7th century, and developed into an important trade hub in southeastern Turkey by the 10th century. Ahlat was captured by the Seljuk Empire in 1071 and later became the capital of the Turkmen beylik known as Shah-Armens.

Because the inscription is written in a very irregular way, there are still many questions about how to read it. If we read the date as 567 in the Islamic calendar, which is 1171 in the Gregorian calendar, this stone would be the oldest Arabic inscription found in Quanzhou.



The tombstone in the picture below was found in 1939 when the North Gate (Chaotian Gate) of Quanzhou was torn down. The person buried there was named Nuransa Ibn Khwaja Balad-shah b. Khwaja Haji Harbk Khorazmi, who died in 1322.

In his name, Nuransa is his given name, and Balad-shah is his father's name, which means leader in Persian. Harbk is his grandfather's name, Khwaja shows his noble status, Haji means his grandfather had been on the Hajj, and Khorazmi shows his family came from the Khwarezm region of Central Asia.

The Khwarezmian Empire was destroyed by the Mongol Empire in 1221 and was later divided between the Chagatai Khanate and the Golden Horde. In the 14th century, Khwarezm was an important trade center in Central Asia until it was destroyed by the Timurid Empire in 1388.



The tombstone in the picture below was found in 1936 at Jintoupu Village outside the East Gate (Tonghuai Gate) of Quanzhou. The person buried there died in 1358 and was named Banan b. Ghasim Isfahani, who came from the famous Iranian city of Isfahan.

Isfahan became the capital of the Seljuk Empire in the mid-11th century and reached its peak in the late 11th century. Isfahan declined after the fall of the Seljuk Empire in the 13th century. It suffered a massacre by Timur in 1387 and did not revive until the Safavid dynasty in the 16th century.



The tombstone in the picture below was unearthed in 1931 at Jintoupu outside Tonghuai Gate in Quanzhou. The person buried there was Sihab al-dunya sa l-din b. Daghab, the son of a garrison commander from Balashaghun. He died in 1301, and the inscription includes a verse from the Quran (3:185).

Balashaghun is located on the banks of the Chu River in Kyrgyzstan. It was once the capital of the Kara-Khanid Khanate and the new capital of the Western Liao dynasty. It is the hometown of Yusuf Khass Hajib, the author of Wisdom of Royal Glory (Kutadgu Bilig). Balashaghun was captured by the Mongol Empire in 1218 and gradually became a ruin by the 14th century.



The tombstone in the picture below was unearthed in 1933 from the city wall of Renfeng Gate in Quanzhou. The person buried there was Muhammad b. Su'ud Yahya, who died in 1326.



The tombstone in the picture below was unearthed in 1939 from the city wall of Tonghuai Gate in Quanzhou. The person buried there was Khwaja Ali b. Uthman al-Jilani, who died in 1357.

Gilan is located on the southern coast of the Caspian Sea in northwestern Iran. It was ruled by locals until the 11th to 16th centuries. It was occupied by the Ilkhanate in 1307 but regained its independence in 1336.



The tombstone in the picture below.

This was unearthed in 1978 on a street in Houhai Road Village, outside Tonghuai Gate in Quanzhou, and it is carved with verses from the Quran (21:35, 28:88).



The bottom half of the tombstone in the picture below was found in 1934 on a field path outside Tonghuai Gate in Quanzhou, while the top half was found in 1942 while digging for city wall foundation stones at the East Gate of Quanzhou. The person buried here was named Shaikh Aklab Umar, who passed away in 1303, and the inscription also features verses from the Quran (55:26-27, 3:185).



The tombstone in the picture below was found in 1938 while digging for city foundation stones at Renfeng Gate, the East Gate of Quanzhou; the person buried here was named Granto Takin b. Sultan Husayn, who passed away in 1308. Takin is a Turkic title for a prince or noble.



The tombstone in the picture below is a replica, and the original is on display in the main hall of the Maritime Museum. It was discovered in the summer of 1934 within the city foundations at the East Gate of Quanzhou. The top is carved with scripture (28:88) and also Chinese characters: 'General Manager Pan died on the first day of the fourth lunar month.' According to the History of Song, Volume 7 on Official Positions, the position of General Manager was created during the Jianyan era of Emperor Gaozong of the Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1130) to manage money, grain, and taxes. By the Shaoxing era of the Southern Song Dynasty, the General Manager could directly participate in military and political affairs and held great power. However, the Yuan Dianzhang records that the title of General Manager was used for minor officials in the prisons of various prefectures and counties.



The tombstone in the picture below was found in April 1958 in the city foundation near Tonghuai Gate at the East Gate of Quanzhou. The tomb owner was named Haji Khwaja b. Hasam al-Din b. Yalaki Siraf, who passed away in 1362.

Siraf is also translated in historical records as Shiluowei, Shilafu, Sanawei, Shilafu, or Siluofu. It is located in southern Iran and was the largest trading port in the Persian Gulf between the 9th and 13th centuries. Most Persian merchants traveling to Quanzhou during the Song and Yuan dynasties set off from here.



The tombstone in the picture below was discovered in 1926 by the famous archaeologist Chen Wanli on South Street in Quanzhou (now Zhongshan Road). He asked the Quanzhou government to move it to the Construction Bureau for safekeeping, but it was lost during a flood in 1935. In 1955, residents digging at the old Construction Bureau site found a stone tablet, but the bottom part with the date was broken. The person buried there was the daughter of Sayyid Burtumi b. Sayyid Muhammad al-Hamdani.

Hamadan is located southwest of Tehran and serves as an important commercial center and transport hub in northwestern Iran. Hamadan became the capital of the Seljuk Empire in the 11th century, but it was destroyed by the Mongol army in 1220 and again during the Timurid invasion in the 14th century, only recovering during the Safavid dynasty in the 16th century.



The tombstone in the picture below was found in 1929 when the Renfeng Gate wall at the East Gate of Quanzhou was torn down. It broke into three pieces and was stacked into a house wall, then rediscovered in 1950 after the wall collapsed. A corner of the tombstone was lost in the late 1960s. The person buried there died in 1337, and the inscription is a verse from the Quran (21:34-35).



The tombstone in the picture below was found in September 1958 next to a field in Huazhou Village outside the South Gate of Quanzhou. Local villagers said it was a city stone dug up from the Quanzhou South Gate wall over 20 years earlier. They originally planned to use it to build a house, but after realizing it was a tombstone, they used it to pave a path in the field instead. The person buried there was named Abu Masman Ghath, and the inscription is a verse from the Quran (55:26-27).



The tombstone in the picture below was found on the road surface of West Street in Quanzhou in 1932. It was originally taken from the city wall to pave the road. The person buried there is named Khadija bint Fanshah.



The tombstone in the picture below was unearthed in 1981 at a villager's home in Jinputou, outside Tonghuai Gate at the East Gate of Quanzhou. The person buried there is named al-Hamd Suad.



The tombstone in the picture below was found in a resident's home near the South Gate factory area in Quanzhou in 1945 and was recovered for preservation in 1953. The inscription is a verse from the Quran (29:57).



The tombstone in the picture below was excavated from the city wall at the East Gate of Quanzhou in 1930. The center features a full moon carved in Arabic script, with a swirling cloud on each side, creating a cloud and moon pattern. The top center of the tombstone features the Shahada, surrounded by dua.



The tombstone in the picture below was found in 1940 while digging city foundations near Jiaochangtou, close to Tonghuai Gate at the East Gate of Quanzhou. The tombstone features a cloud and moon design, with a full moon in the center and swirling cloud patterns on both sides. The person buried here died in 1350, and the inscription is a verse from the Quran (55:26-27).



The tombstone in the picture below was found in June 1959 in Xiawei Village, outside Tonghuai Gate at the East Gate of Quanzhou. According to local villagers, this stone was dug up from the city wall many years ago and used to pave a small path in the fields. It was dug up again during road construction and kept in an ancestral hall because the writing on it looked unusual. The inscription consists of verses from the Quran (39:4, 55:26-27).



The tombstone in the picture below was found in 1947 in the city foundations of Deji Gate at the South Gate of Quanzhou. That same year, it was used to build a pier for the Shunji Bridge at the South Gate, but it was later discovered and moved. The inscription is a verse from the Quran (55:26-27).



The tombstone inscription in the picture below is a verse from the Quran (55:26-27). The lower part of the tombstone is damaged, so we only know the person was a "pure servant who died on Saturday, May 2nd, in the year..."



The tombstone in the picture below was found in a field near East Lake outside the Small East Gate of Quanzhou in April 1962. Local villagers say it was dug up from the city wall years ago to pave the road. The inscription is a verse from the Quran (3:85).



The tombstone in the picture below was found in a pond outside Renfeng Gate at the East Gate of Quanzhou in 1939. The tomb owner's title is Sayyid al-Ajall al-Kabir, which translates to "the first, the respected, the important." The other side is carved with Chinese characters reading "Fengxun Dafu, Darughachi of Yongchun County..."

Darughachi was a government position during the Yuan Dynasty, held only by Mongols or powerful Semu people. Yongchun County is under the jurisdiction of Quanzhou. According to the Yongchun Prefecture Records, there was once a darughachi named Tuohuanshaduoluoboer, who might be the same person as the tomb owner.





The tombstone in the picture below was found in 1931 when the East Gate of Quanzhou was dismantled. The tomb owner was named Khwaja Jalal al-Din b. Muhammad b. Ibrahim, who passed away in 1305. The back is carved with verses from the Quran (89:28-30).



The tombstone in the picture below was found in 1942 at a stone shop on Renfeng Street outside the East Gate of Quanzhou. It had been dug out from the city wall. The tomb owner was named Amir Tughasun Amir Ali b. Hasan b. Ali al-Ghazwini, who passed away in 1371 (some say 1273). Amir, also translated as Yimi, originally meant commander and was later used to refer to a lord.

In his book Religious Stone Inscriptions of Quanzhou, Wu Wenliang speculates that this Amir was the imam of the foreign quarter in Quanzhou at that time. In the early Ming Dynasty, the government briefly followed the open policies of the Yuan Dynasty, encouraged foreign trade, and established a Maritime Trade Office in Quanzhou. This policy did not last long. In 1371, the Ming Dynasty issued a maritime ban, and in 1374, it closed the Quanzhou Maritime Trade Office. The once-thriving foreign quarter in Quanzhou quickly declined.

Qazvin is located in northwestern Iran, south of the Caspian Sea. In 1220, the Mongol army massacred the population of Qazvin. Afterward, many Turkic-speaking people moved to Qazvin to settle. In 1295, Qazvin suffered heavy damage during the turmoil of Ghazan Khan's struggle for the throne of the Ilkhanate, and many people left the city.





The tombstone in the picture below was discovered in 1940 when the Renfeng Gate at the east gate of Quanzhou was demolished. The person buried there was Shams al-Din b. Nur al-Din b. Ishaqan Shahristani, who died in 1325 and came from Shahristan in Iran. The back features a verse from the Quran (3:19).





The tombstone in the picture below was found in March 1963 in the home of a farmer at Ruifengling outside the east gate of Quanzhou. The family said it was discovered when an old wall that had stood for a hundred years collapsed. Several gravestones belonging to the faith were found near Ruifeng Ridge, marking it as one of the burial sites for Muslims in Quanzhou during the Song and Yuan dynasties. The person buried there was named Fatima bint Naina, who passed away in 1306. The back of the stone is carved with verses from the Quran (55:26-27).



The gravestone in the picture below is broken into several pieces, with two parts remaining today; they were unearthed in 1953 and 1956 at Jintoupu, outside the Tonghuai Gate of Quanzhou's East Gate. The person buried there was named Abu Bakr b. Husayn Sinan, who passed away in 1319.





The gravestone in the picture below was excavated from the city wall at Quanzhou's East Gate in 1929; the person buried there was named Haji b. Agfar Beg b. Haji al-Malighi, who passed away in 1387 (though some say 1290). If the date is 1387, it is a rare gravestone from the Ming dynasty. The back is carved with a verse from the Quran (2:156) and a hadith stating, 'Whoever dies in a foreign land dies a martyr.'





The tombstone in the picture below was found in 1930 when the East Gate of Quanzhou was demolished. The person buried there was named Mansur b. Haji al-Qasim al-Jajarmi, who died in 1277. The back features the Shahada and a verse from the Quran (28:88). This Mansur and the previously mentioned Qutb al-Din Ya'qub both came from Jajarm in the North Khorasan province of Iran.

In 1276, the Yuan army captured Lin'an, and Wen Tianxiang and others supported Emperor Duanzong as they fled to Quanzhou. The Song army seized 2,000 of Pu Shougeng's ships (some say over 400) and confiscated his property. This led Pu Shougeng to carry out a retaliatory massacre of the Southern Song royal family members living abroad and to hunt down Emperor Duanzong. In 1277, the Yuan army arrived in Quanzhou, and Pu Shougeng surrendered the city, marking a new chapter in Quanzhou's history.





The tombstone in the picture below was found in 1932 when the Renfeng Gate of the Quanzhou East Gate city wall was demolished. The person buried there was named Shirin Khatun bint Hasan Zaituni, who died in 1321. In Turkic languages, Khatun means queen or lady. The inscription also features a verse from the Quran (29:57).

Citong is another name for Quanzhou, named after the coral trees (citong) planted everywhere since the Five Dynasties period. During the Song and Yuan dynasties, Arab merchants called Quanzhou Zaitun because the name sounded like the Arabic word for olive (zaitun).





The tombstone in the picture below was found in November 1978 inside a family home at Jintoupu, outside Tonghuai Gate in Quanzhou, where it was being used as a foundation stone. Before that, it had been excavated from the city walls of Tonghuai Gate. The person buried there was named Ibn Ghawamar al-Din al-Ghar... The inscription describes him as a Khwaja, a leader of the faith, and a leader of the Mawla. The text uses Persian several times, so the person buried there likely came from a Persian cultural background.





The tombstone in the picture below was unearthed in March 1964 at the construction site of the Overseas Chinese Mansion in downtown Quanzhou. This site was once the location of the Haiqing Pavilion during the Qing Dynasty. When the Senate building was built in the early 1940s, the city walls of the east and south gates of Quanzhou were torn down for building materials, and this stone tablet was likely buried in the wall foundation at that time. One side of the tombstone is carved with the Shahada, and the other side is carved with a verse from the Quran (3:185).





The tombstone in the picture below was found in the foundation of the east gate of Quanzhou in 1944. One side is carved with the Basmala and the Shahada, and the other side is carved with a verse from the Quran (29:57).





The tombstone in the picture below was unearthed in 1973 during the cleaning of the North Canal in Quanzhou and is carved with verses from the Quran (89:28-30).





Sumeru-pedestal stone tomb.

The second largest category after tombstones is the Sumeru-pedestal stone tomb.

These are two Sumeru-pedestal style tomb stones. The upper tomb cap stone was found near Dongchan Mosque outside the east gate of Quanzhou in 1927 and was recovered and preserved in the Maritime Museum in 1958.

The person buried here was named Qutb al-Din Ya'qub. He came from Jajarm in the North Khorasan province of Iran and passed away in 1309. The inscription begins by saying, 'He is eternal and never dies; he has moved from the world of destruction to the world of eternity.'

Jajarm sits on the edge of the central Iranian desert and holds many historical and archaeological sites. This city was an important trade hub in Khorasan during the 10th and 11th centuries, but it slowly declined after the Persian Safavid dynasty in the 16th century.

The lower half has five layers. The fourth layer is carved with scripture (2:255). In 1958, the Quanzhou Cultural Relics Management Committee temporarily stored it in the main hall of the Qingjing Mosque, later moved it to the Lingshan Islamic Cemetery area, and finally placed it in the Maritime Museum.









The patterns on this Sumeru-style stone tomb are very unique. The bottom and second layers are destroyed. The third layer features overlapping lotus petal reliefs, the fourth layer has continuous swastika pattern reliefs, and the fifth layer shows a cloud and moon relief on the front with a square cloth relief in the middle. This tombstone was found in 1959 by the seaside in Meishan, Fashi Township, 5 kilometers outside the Tonghuai Gate of Quanzhou. It was later moved to the Maritime Museum for preservation.









Several other Sumeru-style stone tombs.













The tombstone base of a pedestal-style altar tomb.

A corner of the Maritime Museum (Haijiaoguan) is piled with many tombstones. There are no labels, and many are hard to see because they are stacked on top of each other. They were arranged this way when I visited in 2017, and nothing has changed after seven years.



















Found in 1937 at Jintoupu Village outside Tonghuai Gate at the East Gate of Quanzhou, the inscription reads, 'Everyone (shall taste death).'



Found in 1943 inside the city wall foundation at the East Gate of Quanzhou, the inscription contains Quranic verses (9:21-22).



The tombstone base above was found in 1939 inside the city wall at Tonghuai Gate at the East Gate of Quanzhou, and it contains Quranic verses (29:57).



Found in 1943 near the East Drill Ground (Dongjiaochang) in Quanzhou, the inscription reads, 'Your Lord of Might.'













The tombstone base in the picture below was found in 1959 in a pile of rubble at the Qingjing Mosque. This pile of rubble was dug up from the city wall foundation near Tonghuai Gate at the East Gate of Quanzhou, and it was moved to the Maritime Museum (Haijiaoguan) for preservation in 1964. The inscription states the tomb owner's name is Toghan-shah b. Umar b. Sayyid Ajall. Toghan means eagle in Turkic, and Shah means king in Persian, which is how Central Asians addressed nobles. Sayyid Ajall means honorable gentleman in Arabic, and it is a respectful title for descendants of the Prophet.

Coincidentally, a tombstone unearthed in 1952 at the foundation of the Southeast Drill Ground in Quanzhou likely belongs to the same person as the Toghan-shah tombstone mentioned above. Unfortunately, this tombstone was moved to the National Museum of China in 1959 and is not currently on display, so the Maritime Museum only shows a replica. This tombstone states the owner's name is Amir Sayyid Ajall Tohgan-shah b. Sayyid Ajall Umar b. Sayyid Ajall Amiran b. Amir Isfahasalar Darnakrani al-Buhari, who passed away in 1302. The term Isfahasalar is made up of the Persian word Isfahah and the Turkic word Salar, meaning military general.

Both tombstones mention that Toghan-shah's father was named Umar Sayyid Ajall. The second son of Nasulading, who was the son of the famous Yuan Dynasty politician Sayyid Ajjal Shams al-Din, was named Umar Sayyid Ajjal. Umar once served as the administrator of the Fujian Branch Secretariat in Quanzhou. According to Rashid al-Din's History of the Mongols, Sayyid Ajjal Shams al-Din was from Bukhara, which matches the records on the tombstone.







The tombstone in the picture below was found in 1987. One side is carved with the testimony of faith, and the other side, translated by Imam Wang Yaodong from Ningxia, says the person buried there was named Haji Abdullah.







The tombstone base stone above was found in the foundation of the East Gate of Quanzhou in 1944 and is carved with a verse from the Quran (21:35). The bottom left of Figure 1 shows a tombstone base stone from a pedestal-style altar. It was found near the South Gate of Quanzhou in 1959, and local residents say it was recovered when the South Gate was torn down between 1946 and 1948. The inscription on the stone features a verse from the Quran (24:35).



The tombstone base stone above was found in the foundation of the East Gate of Quanzhou in 1944 and is carved with a verse from the Quran (28:88).



The tombstone marker in the middle of the picture below was found in 1960 among a pile of rubble at the entrance of Chongfu Mosque at the East Gate of Quanzhou. It reads, 'Everything will perish except Him.'







The shape of this stone carving is quite unique and different from any other tombstones or tombstone markers seen so far. It was found in 1948 in Jintoupu Village outside the Tonghuai Gate at the East Gate of Quanzhou. Villagers said it was dug up from the foundation of the city wall.



The tombstone marker in the picture below was built into the east wall of a vegetable market near the South Drill Ground in Quanzhou in the autumn of 1953. It is said to have been bought when the market purchased stones from the city wall foundation for construction. It was removed in the 1990s when the market was rebuilt. The inscription is a verse from the Quran (28:88).







It was found in 1954 in Jintoupu Village outside the Tonghuai Gate at the East Gate of Quanzhou.



It was found in 1957 in a field between the Small East Gate and Jintoupu Village in Quanzhou. The content is a verse from the Quran (39:74).













It was purchased in 1949 from a stonemason's shop at the East Gate of Quanzhou.





The tombstone base in the picture below was found in 1948 at Jintoupu Village outside the Tonghuai Gate of Quanzhou's East Gate. In 1973, Liu Wanru, the widow of Mr. Wu Wenliang, donated it to the Quanzhou Cultural Relics Management Committee. It features Quranic verses (55:26-27).



The tombstone base in the picture below was found in 1948 in Tingdian Village, 3 kilometers outside Quanzhou's South Gate. It features Quranic verses (89:29-30).



The tombstone base in the picture below was found in 1938 inside the city wall of Quanzhou's East Gate. It features a Quranic verse (30:11).





Lintel stone of a gongbei

Besides tombstones, Sumeru-pedestal style stone tombs, and Sumeru-pedestal altar-style stone tombs, the Maritime Museum also houses another type of religious stone carving: the lintel stone of a gongbei (a domed tomb for a Sufi saint). Unfortunately, only the lintel stone has been found so far, so we do not know what the original gongbei looked like.

The item in the picture below was dug up in 1946 from the foundation of Quanzhou's South Gate. The front is inscribed with Quranic verses (9:21-22), and the beginning mentions 'minbar,' which is the pulpit inside a mosque, though its specific meaning here is unclear.



The item in the picture below was found in 1958 in a villager's home not far from the South Gate of Quanzhou. The villager said he found it deep in the city wall foundation while helping dig at the South Gate between 1946 and 1948. I originally wanted to take them home to build a wall, but I left them behind because their shapes made them hard to stack. The text reads, "(Every living thing) will die, (He is the Everlasting) who does not die."



The image below shows the pivot stone from a gongbei lintel. It was found in a resident's home near the south gate city wall of Quanzhou in 1959, and it is said to have been taken when the south city gate was torn down between 1946 and 1948. The left square of the stone carving features a relief of a camellia branch, the right square features a relief of a peony branch, and the back features a relief of a melon-petal-shaped door pivot. The text reads, "If anyone in this world could live forever, the Messenger of Allah would be the one to live forever in this world." No one can escape death, for the Prophet Muhammad faced the decree of death."



The image below shows a lintel stone from a gongbei tomb, with a relief of a peony branch on the right side. The stone carving was originally laid on a grain-drying ground on the south side of the street in Jintoupu Village, outside Tonghuai Gate at the east gate of Quanzhou. It was moved to the Maritime Museum for preservation in 1978.



The altar-style stone tomb with a pedestal base (xumizuo) restored by Mr. Wu Wenliang. Quanzhou has found many tomb wall stones and some tomb roof stones, but so far, no complete altar-style stone tomb with a pedestal base (xumizuo) from the faith has been discovered.
Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: Islamic Art Guide: Quanzhou Maritime Museum Song-Yuan Stone Inscriptions (Part 1) is presented here as a firsthand travel account in clear, natural English. The account focuses on Quanzhou, Islamic Art, Stone Inscriptions while preserving the names, places, food, photos, and historical details from the Chinese source.

The Quanzhou Maritime Museum was built in 1959. The Quanzhou Islamic Culture Exhibition Hall opened in 2003, and the 'Arabs and Persians in Quanzhou' exhibition launched in 2008, featuring over 200 stone carvings from the Song and Yuan dynasties. I visited the 'Arabs and Persians in Quanzhou' exhibition in 2017. Returning seven years later, the layout has not changed much, but some of the most iconic stone tablets, such as the tombstone of 'Consul Pan,' have been moved to the 'Quanzhou: World Maritime Trade Center in Song and Yuan China' exhibition, with replicas now in their place.









Tombstone

The largest category of Song and Yuan dynasty Islamic stone carvings in the museum's collection is tombstones.





The tombstone in the picture below was once used as a stone tabletop under the eaves of Yuanshan Hall (later renamed Fentuoshi) on Zhongshan Middle Road in Quanzhou. It is said to have been moved there in 1952 when building materials were purchased from the city's East Gate wall foundations for construction. Ms. Wu Yuanying donated it to the museum in 1965.

The person buried is named Husayn b. Muhammad Khalati. Khalati refers to the ancient city of Ahlat in what is now southeastern Turkey. Historically, Ahlat was part of the Armenian Kingdom, was occupied by Arabs in the mid-7th century, and developed into an important trade hub in southeastern Turkey by the 10th century. Ahlat was captured by the Seljuk Empire in 1071 and later became the capital of the Turkmen beylik known as Shah-Armens.

Because the inscription is written in a very irregular way, there are still many questions about how to read it. If we read the date as 567 in the Islamic calendar, which is 1171 in the Gregorian calendar, this stone would be the oldest Arabic inscription found in Quanzhou.



The tombstone in the picture below was found in 1939 when the North Gate (Chaotian Gate) of Quanzhou was torn down. The person buried there was named Nuransa Ibn Khwaja Balad-shah b. Khwaja Haji Harbk Khorazmi, who died in 1322.

In his name, Nuransa is his given name, and Balad-shah is his father's name, which means leader in Persian. Harbk is his grandfather's name, Khwaja shows his noble status, Haji means his grandfather had been on the Hajj, and Khorazmi shows his family came from the Khwarezm region of Central Asia.

The Khwarezmian Empire was destroyed by the Mongol Empire in 1221 and was later divided between the Chagatai Khanate and the Golden Horde. In the 14th century, Khwarezm was an important trade center in Central Asia until it was destroyed by the Timurid Empire in 1388.



The tombstone in the picture below was found in 1936 at Jintoupu Village outside the East Gate (Tonghuai Gate) of Quanzhou. The person buried there died in 1358 and was named Banan b. Ghasim Isfahani, who came from the famous Iranian city of Isfahan.

Isfahan became the capital of the Seljuk Empire in the mid-11th century and reached its peak in the late 11th century. Isfahan declined after the fall of the Seljuk Empire in the 13th century. It suffered a massacre by Timur in 1387 and did not revive until the Safavid dynasty in the 16th century.



The tombstone in the picture below was unearthed in 1931 at Jintoupu outside Tonghuai Gate in Quanzhou. The person buried there was Sihab al-dunya sa l-din b. Daghab, the son of a garrison commander from Balashaghun. He died in 1301, and the inscription includes a verse from the Quran (3:185).

Balashaghun is located on the banks of the Chu River in Kyrgyzstan. It was once the capital of the Kara-Khanid Khanate and the new capital of the Western Liao dynasty. It is the hometown of Yusuf Khass Hajib, the author of Wisdom of Royal Glory (Kutadgu Bilig). Balashaghun was captured by the Mongol Empire in 1218 and gradually became a ruin by the 14th century.



The tombstone in the picture below was unearthed in 1933 from the city wall of Renfeng Gate in Quanzhou. The person buried there was Muhammad b. Su'ud Yahya, who died in 1326.



The tombstone in the picture below was unearthed in 1939 from the city wall of Tonghuai Gate in Quanzhou. The person buried there was Khwaja Ali b. Uthman al-Jilani, who died in 1357.

Gilan is located on the southern coast of the Caspian Sea in northwestern Iran. It was ruled by locals until the 11th to 16th centuries. It was occupied by the Ilkhanate in 1307 but regained its independence in 1336.



The tombstone in the picture below.

This was unearthed in 1978 on a street in Houhai Road Village, outside Tonghuai Gate in Quanzhou, and it is carved with verses from the Quran (21:35, 28:88).



The bottom half of the tombstone in the picture below was found in 1934 on a field path outside Tonghuai Gate in Quanzhou, while the top half was found in 1942 while digging for city wall foundation stones at the East Gate of Quanzhou. The person buried here was named Shaikh Aklab Umar, who passed away in 1303, and the inscription also features verses from the Quran (55:26-27, 3:185).



The tombstone in the picture below was found in 1938 while digging for city foundation stones at Renfeng Gate, the East Gate of Quanzhou; the person buried here was named Granto Takin b. Sultan Husayn, who passed away in 1308. Takin is a Turkic title for a prince or noble.



The tombstone in the picture below is a replica, and the original is on display in the main hall of the Maritime Museum. It was discovered in the summer of 1934 within the city foundations at the East Gate of Quanzhou. The top is carved with scripture (28:88) and also Chinese characters: 'General Manager Pan died on the first day of the fourth lunar month.' According to the History of Song, Volume 7 on Official Positions, the position of General Manager was created during the Jianyan era of Emperor Gaozong of the Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1130) to manage money, grain, and taxes. By the Shaoxing era of the Southern Song Dynasty, the General Manager could directly participate in military and political affairs and held great power. However, the Yuan Dianzhang records that the title of General Manager was used for minor officials in the prisons of various prefectures and counties.



The tombstone in the picture below was found in April 1958 in the city foundation near Tonghuai Gate at the East Gate of Quanzhou. The tomb owner was named Haji Khwaja b. Hasam al-Din b. Yalaki Siraf, who passed away in 1362.

Siraf is also translated in historical records as Shiluowei, Shilafu, Sanawei, Shilafu, or Siluofu. It is located in southern Iran and was the largest trading port in the Persian Gulf between the 9th and 13th centuries. Most Persian merchants traveling to Quanzhou during the Song and Yuan dynasties set off from here.



The tombstone in the picture below was discovered in 1926 by the famous archaeologist Chen Wanli on South Street in Quanzhou (now Zhongshan Road). He asked the Quanzhou government to move it to the Construction Bureau for safekeeping, but it was lost during a flood in 1935. In 1955, residents digging at the old Construction Bureau site found a stone tablet, but the bottom part with the date was broken. The person buried there was the daughter of Sayyid Burtumi b. Sayyid Muhammad al-Hamdani.

Hamadan is located southwest of Tehran and serves as an important commercial center and transport hub in northwestern Iran. Hamadan became the capital of the Seljuk Empire in the 11th century, but it was destroyed by the Mongol army in 1220 and again during the Timurid invasion in the 14th century, only recovering during the Safavid dynasty in the 16th century.



The tombstone in the picture below was found in 1929 when the Renfeng Gate wall at the East Gate of Quanzhou was torn down. It broke into three pieces and was stacked into a house wall, then rediscovered in 1950 after the wall collapsed. A corner of the tombstone was lost in the late 1960s. The person buried there died in 1337, and the inscription is a verse from the Quran (21:34-35).



The tombstone in the picture below was found in September 1958 next to a field in Huazhou Village outside the South Gate of Quanzhou. Local villagers said it was a city stone dug up from the Quanzhou South Gate wall over 20 years earlier. They originally planned to use it to build a house, but after realizing it was a tombstone, they used it to pave a path in the field instead. The person buried there was named Abu Masman Ghath, and the inscription is a verse from the Quran (55:26-27).



The tombstone in the picture below was found on the road surface of West Street in Quanzhou in 1932. It was originally taken from the city wall to pave the road. The person buried there is named Khadija bint Fanshah.



The tombstone in the picture below was unearthed in 1981 at a villager's home in Jinputou, outside Tonghuai Gate at the East Gate of Quanzhou. The person buried there is named al-Hamd Suad.



The tombstone in the picture below was found in a resident's home near the South Gate factory area in Quanzhou in 1945 and was recovered for preservation in 1953. The inscription is a verse from the Quran (29:57).



The tombstone in the picture below was excavated from the city wall at the East Gate of Quanzhou in 1930. The center features a full moon carved in Arabic script, with a swirling cloud on each side, creating a cloud and moon pattern. The top center of the tombstone features the Shahada, surrounded by dua.



The tombstone in the picture below was found in 1940 while digging city foundations near Jiaochangtou, close to Tonghuai Gate at the East Gate of Quanzhou. The tombstone features a cloud and moon design, with a full moon in the center and swirling cloud patterns on both sides. The person buried here died in 1350, and the inscription is a verse from the Quran (55:26-27).



The tombstone in the picture below was found in June 1959 in Xiawei Village, outside Tonghuai Gate at the East Gate of Quanzhou. According to local villagers, this stone was dug up from the city wall many years ago and used to pave a small path in the fields. It was dug up again during road construction and kept in an ancestral hall because the writing on it looked unusual. The inscription consists of verses from the Quran (39:4, 55:26-27).



The tombstone in the picture below was found in 1947 in the city foundations of Deji Gate at the South Gate of Quanzhou. That same year, it was used to build a pier for the Shunji Bridge at the South Gate, but it was later discovered and moved. The inscription is a verse from the Quran (55:26-27).



The tombstone inscription in the picture below is a verse from the Quran (55:26-27). The lower part of the tombstone is damaged, so we only know the person was a "pure servant who died on Saturday, May 2nd, in the year..."



The tombstone in the picture below was found in a field near East Lake outside the Small East Gate of Quanzhou in April 1962. Local villagers say it was dug up from the city wall years ago to pave the road. The inscription is a verse from the Quran (3:85).



The tombstone in the picture below was found in a pond outside Renfeng Gate at the East Gate of Quanzhou in 1939. The tomb owner's title is Sayyid al-Ajall al-Kabir, which translates to "the first, the respected, the important." The other side is carved with Chinese characters reading "Fengxun Dafu, Darughachi of Yongchun County..."

Darughachi was a government position during the Yuan Dynasty, held only by Mongols or powerful Semu people. Yongchun County is under the jurisdiction of Quanzhou. According to the Yongchun Prefecture Records, there was once a darughachi named Tuohuanshaduoluoboer, who might be the same person as the tomb owner.





The tombstone in the picture below was found in 1931 when the East Gate of Quanzhou was dismantled. The tomb owner was named Khwaja Jalal al-Din b. Muhammad b. Ibrahim, who passed away in 1305. The back is carved with verses from the Quran (89:28-30).



The tombstone in the picture below was found in 1942 at a stone shop on Renfeng Street outside the East Gate of Quanzhou. It had been dug out from the city wall. The tomb owner was named Amir Tughasun Amir Ali b. Hasan b. Ali al-Ghazwini, who passed away in 1371 (some say 1273). Amir, also translated as Yimi, originally meant commander and was later used to refer to a lord.

In his book Religious Stone Inscriptions of Quanzhou, Wu Wenliang speculates that this Amir was the imam of the foreign quarter in Quanzhou at that time. In the early Ming Dynasty, the government briefly followed the open policies of the Yuan Dynasty, encouraged foreign trade, and established a Maritime Trade Office in Quanzhou. This policy did not last long. In 1371, the Ming Dynasty issued a maritime ban, and in 1374, it closed the Quanzhou Maritime Trade Office. The once-thriving foreign quarter in Quanzhou quickly declined.

Qazvin is located in northwestern Iran, south of the Caspian Sea. In 1220, the Mongol army massacred the population of Qazvin. Afterward, many Turkic-speaking people moved to Qazvin to settle. In 1295, Qazvin suffered heavy damage during the turmoil of Ghazan Khan's struggle for the throne of the Ilkhanate, and many people left the city.





The tombstone in the picture below was discovered in 1940 when the Renfeng Gate at the east gate of Quanzhou was demolished. The person buried there was Shams al-Din b. Nur al-Din b. Ishaqan Shahristani, who died in 1325 and came from Shahristan in Iran. The back features a verse from the Quran (3:19).





The tombstone in the picture below was found in March 1963 in the home of a farmer at Ruifengling outside the east gate of Quanzhou. The family said it was discovered when an old wall that had stood for a hundred years collapsed. Several gravestones belonging to the faith were found near Ruifeng Ridge, marking it as one of the burial sites for Muslims in Quanzhou during the Song and Yuan dynasties. The person buried there was named Fatima bint Naina, who passed away in 1306. The back of the stone is carved with verses from the Quran (55:26-27).



The gravestone in the picture below is broken into several pieces, with two parts remaining today; they were unearthed in 1953 and 1956 at Jintoupu, outside the Tonghuai Gate of Quanzhou's East Gate. The person buried there was named Abu Bakr b. Husayn Sinan, who passed away in 1319.





The gravestone in the picture below was excavated from the city wall at Quanzhou's East Gate in 1929; the person buried there was named Haji b. Agfar Beg b. Haji al-Malighi, who passed away in 1387 (though some say 1290). If the date is 1387, it is a rare gravestone from the Ming dynasty. The back is carved with a verse from the Quran (2:156) and a hadith stating, 'Whoever dies in a foreign land dies a martyr.'





The tombstone in the picture below was found in 1930 when the East Gate of Quanzhou was demolished. The person buried there was named Mansur b. Haji al-Qasim al-Jajarmi, who died in 1277. The back features the Shahada and a verse from the Quran (28:88). This Mansur and the previously mentioned Qutb al-Din Ya'qub both came from Jajarm in the North Khorasan province of Iran.

In 1276, the Yuan army captured Lin'an, and Wen Tianxiang and others supported Emperor Duanzong as they fled to Quanzhou. The Song army seized 2,000 of Pu Shougeng's ships (some say over 400) and confiscated his property. This led Pu Shougeng to carry out a retaliatory massacre of the Southern Song royal family members living abroad and to hunt down Emperor Duanzong. In 1277, the Yuan army arrived in Quanzhou, and Pu Shougeng surrendered the city, marking a new chapter in Quanzhou's history.





The tombstone in the picture below was found in 1932 when the Renfeng Gate of the Quanzhou East Gate city wall was demolished. The person buried there was named Shirin Khatun bint Hasan Zaituni, who died in 1321. In Turkic languages, Khatun means queen or lady. The inscription also features a verse from the Quran (29:57).

Citong is another name for Quanzhou, named after the coral trees (citong) planted everywhere since the Five Dynasties period. During the Song and Yuan dynasties, Arab merchants called Quanzhou Zaitun because the name sounded like the Arabic word for olive (zaitun).





The tombstone in the picture below was found in November 1978 inside a family home at Jintoupu, outside Tonghuai Gate in Quanzhou, where it was being used as a foundation stone. Before that, it had been excavated from the city walls of Tonghuai Gate. The person buried there was named Ibn Ghawamar al-Din al-Ghar... The inscription describes him as a Khwaja, a leader of the faith, and a leader of the Mawla. The text uses Persian several times, so the person buried there likely came from a Persian cultural background.





The tombstone in the picture below was unearthed in March 1964 at the construction site of the Overseas Chinese Mansion in downtown Quanzhou. This site was once the location of the Haiqing Pavilion during the Qing Dynasty. When the Senate building was built in the early 1940s, the city walls of the east and south gates of Quanzhou were torn down for building materials, and this stone tablet was likely buried in the wall foundation at that time. One side of the tombstone is carved with the Shahada, and the other side is carved with a verse from the Quran (3:185).





The tombstone in the picture below was found in the foundation of the east gate of Quanzhou in 1944. One side is carved with the Basmala and the Shahada, and the other side is carved with a verse from the Quran (29:57).





The tombstone in the picture below was unearthed in 1973 during the cleaning of the North Canal in Quanzhou and is carved with verses from the Quran (89:28-30).





Sumeru-pedestal stone tomb.

The second largest category after tombstones is the Sumeru-pedestal stone tomb.

These are two Sumeru-pedestal style tomb stones. The upper tomb cap stone was found near Dongchan Mosque outside the east gate of Quanzhou in 1927 and was recovered and preserved in the Maritime Museum in 1958.

The person buried here was named Qutb al-Din Ya'qub. He came from Jajarm in the North Khorasan province of Iran and passed away in 1309. The inscription begins by saying, 'He is eternal and never dies; he has moved from the world of destruction to the world of eternity.'

Jajarm sits on the edge of the central Iranian desert and holds many historical and archaeological sites. This city was an important trade hub in Khorasan during the 10th and 11th centuries, but it slowly declined after the Persian Safavid dynasty in the 16th century.

The lower half has five layers. The fourth layer is carved with scripture (2:255). In 1958, the Quanzhou Cultural Relics Management Committee temporarily stored it in the main hall of the Qingjing Mosque, later moved it to the Lingshan Islamic Cemetery area, and finally placed it in the Maritime Museum.









The patterns on this Sumeru-style stone tomb are very unique. The bottom and second layers are destroyed. The third layer features overlapping lotus petal reliefs, the fourth layer has continuous swastika pattern reliefs, and the fifth layer shows a cloud and moon relief on the front with a square cloth relief in the middle. This tombstone was found in 1959 by the seaside in Meishan, Fashi Township, 5 kilometers outside the Tonghuai Gate of Quanzhou. It was later moved to the Maritime Museum for preservation.









Several other Sumeru-style stone tombs.













The tombstone base of a pedestal-style altar tomb.

A corner of the Maritime Museum (Haijiaoguan) is piled with many tombstones. There are no labels, and many are hard to see because they are stacked on top of each other. They were arranged this way when I visited in 2017, and nothing has changed after seven years.



















Found in 1937 at Jintoupu Village outside Tonghuai Gate at the East Gate of Quanzhou, the inscription reads, 'Everyone (shall taste death).'



Found in 1943 inside the city wall foundation at the East Gate of Quanzhou, the inscription contains Quranic verses (9:21-22).



The tombstone base above was found in 1939 inside the city wall at Tonghuai Gate at the East Gate of Quanzhou, and it contains Quranic verses (29:57).



Found in 1943 near the East Drill Ground (Dongjiaochang) in Quanzhou, the inscription reads, 'Your Lord of Might.'













The tombstone base in the picture below was found in 1959 in a pile of rubble at the Qingjing Mosque. This pile of rubble was dug up from the city wall foundation near Tonghuai Gate at the East Gate of Quanzhou, and it was moved to the Maritime Museum (Haijiaoguan) for preservation in 1964. The inscription states the tomb owner's name is Toghan-shah b. Umar b. Sayyid Ajall. Toghan means eagle in Turkic, and Shah means king in Persian, which is how Central Asians addressed nobles. Sayyid Ajall means honorable gentleman in Arabic, and it is a respectful title for descendants of the Prophet.

Coincidentally, a tombstone unearthed in 1952 at the foundation of the Southeast Drill Ground in Quanzhou likely belongs to the same person as the Toghan-shah tombstone mentioned above. Unfortunately, this tombstone was moved to the National Museum of China in 1959 and is not currently on display, so the Maritime Museum only shows a replica. This tombstone states the owner's name is Amir Sayyid Ajall Tohgan-shah b. Sayyid Ajall Umar b. Sayyid Ajall Amiran b. Amir Isfahasalar Darnakrani al-Buhari, who passed away in 1302. The term Isfahasalar is made up of the Persian word Isfahah and the Turkic word Salar, meaning military general.

Both tombstones mention that Toghan-shah's father was named Umar Sayyid Ajall. The second son of Nasulading, who was the son of the famous Yuan Dynasty politician Sayyid Ajjal Shams al-Din, was named Umar Sayyid Ajjal. Umar once served as the administrator of the Fujian Branch Secretariat in Quanzhou. According to Rashid al-Din's History of the Mongols, Sayyid Ajjal Shams al-Din was from Bukhara, which matches the records on the tombstone.







The tombstone in the picture below was found in 1987. One side is carved with the testimony of faith, and the other side, translated by Imam Wang Yaodong from Ningxia, says the person buried there was named Haji Abdullah.







The tombstone base stone above was found in the foundation of the East Gate of Quanzhou in 1944 and is carved with a verse from the Quran (21:35). The bottom left of Figure 1 shows a tombstone base stone from a pedestal-style altar. It was found near the South Gate of Quanzhou in 1959, and local residents say it was recovered when the South Gate was torn down between 1946 and 1948. The inscription on the stone features a verse from the Quran (24:35).



The tombstone base stone above was found in the foundation of the East Gate of Quanzhou in 1944 and is carved with a verse from the Quran (28:88).



The tombstone marker in the middle of the picture below was found in 1960 among a pile of rubble at the entrance of Chongfu Mosque at the East Gate of Quanzhou. It reads, 'Everything will perish except Him.'







The shape of this stone carving is quite unique and different from any other tombstones or tombstone markers seen so far. It was found in 1948 in Jintoupu Village outside the Tonghuai Gate at the East Gate of Quanzhou. Villagers said it was dug up from the foundation of the city wall.



The tombstone marker in the picture below was built into the east wall of a vegetable market near the South Drill Ground in Quanzhou in the autumn of 1953. It is said to have been bought when the market purchased stones from the city wall foundation for construction. It was removed in the 1990s when the market was rebuilt. The inscription is a verse from the Quran (28:88).







It was found in 1954 in Jintoupu Village outside the Tonghuai Gate at the East Gate of Quanzhou.



It was found in 1957 in a field between the Small East Gate and Jintoupu Village in Quanzhou. The content is a verse from the Quran (39:74).













It was purchased in 1949 from a stonemason's shop at the East Gate of Quanzhou.





The tombstone base in the picture below was found in 1948 at Jintoupu Village outside the Tonghuai Gate of Quanzhou's East Gate. In 1973, Liu Wanru, the widow of Mr. Wu Wenliang, donated it to the Quanzhou Cultural Relics Management Committee. It features Quranic verses (55:26-27).



The tombstone base in the picture below was found in 1948 in Tingdian Village, 3 kilometers outside Quanzhou's South Gate. It features Quranic verses (89:29-30).



The tombstone base in the picture below was found in 1938 inside the city wall of Quanzhou's East Gate. It features a Quranic verse (30:11).





Lintel stone of a gongbei

Besides tombstones, Sumeru-pedestal style stone tombs, and Sumeru-pedestal altar-style stone tombs, the Maritime Museum also houses another type of religious stone carving: the lintel stone of a gongbei (a domed tomb for a Sufi saint). Unfortunately, only the lintel stone has been found so far, so we do not know what the original gongbei looked like.

The item in the picture below was dug up in 1946 from the foundation of Quanzhou's South Gate. The front is inscribed with Quranic verses (9:21-22), and the beginning mentions 'minbar,' which is the pulpit inside a mosque, though its specific meaning here is unclear.



The item in the picture below was found in 1958 in a villager's home not far from the South Gate of Quanzhou. The villager said he found it deep in the city wall foundation while helping dig at the South Gate between 1946 and 1948. I originally wanted to take them home to build a wall, but I left them behind because their shapes made them hard to stack. The text reads, "(Every living thing) will die, (He is the Everlasting) who does not die."



The image below shows the pivot stone from a gongbei lintel. It was found in a resident's home near the south gate city wall of Quanzhou in 1959, and it is said to have been taken when the south city gate was torn down between 1946 and 1948. The left square of the stone carving features a relief of a camellia branch, the right square features a relief of a peony branch, and the back features a relief of a melon-petal-shaped door pivot. The text reads, "If anyone in this world could live forever, the Messenger of Allah would be the one to live forever in this world." No one can escape death, for the Prophet Muhammad faced the decree of death."



The image below shows a lintel stone from a gongbei tomb, with a relief of a peony branch on the right side. The stone carving was originally laid on a grain-drying ground on the south side of the street in Jintoupu Village, outside Tonghuai Gate at the east gate of Quanzhou. It was moved to the Maritime Museum for preservation in 1978.



The altar-style stone tomb with a pedestal base (xumizuo) restored by Mr. Wu Wenliang. Quanzhou has found many tomb wall stones and some tomb roof stones, but so far, no complete altar-style stone tomb with a pedestal base (xumizuo) from the faith has been discovered. Collapse Read »

Halal Food Guide Taiwan: Muslim-Friendly Restaurants and Halal Dining Memories (Part 2)

Reposted from the web

Summary: Halal Food Guide: Taiwan - Halal Restaurants Across the Island is presented here as a firsthand travel account in clear, natural English. The account focuses on Taiwan, Halal Food, Muslim Travel while preserving the names, places, food, photos, and historical details from the Chinese source.

I am sharing an article from the 300th issue of China Islam magazine titled 'Remembering Brother Mu Huaijia’s Passing—Reflections on the History of Halal Restaurants in Taiwan.' Today I am transcribing the second part, which recalls various halal restaurants in Kaohsiung, Tainan, Taichung, and Taipei.



In the southern city of Kaohsiung, Elder Zhao Ming (may Allah grant him a high place in Paradise) founded the restaurant Meat Pie and Porridge (xianbing zhou), which was popular with both Muslims and the general public. It only operated for a few years before closing when Elder Ming moved north to the Taipei Mosque. Later, people like Xiao Sang and Song Mingcai opened halal restaurants near the Guangfu Theater, which provided convenience for fellow Muslims.

Two elderly people also ran a snack shop that was very helpful to Muslims in the south. It was located in Kaohsiung on Qiuting Road in Dagangpu, behind the wall of the Telecommunications Bureau. It was in a row of makeshift buildings and the place was very simple. The elderly couple’s shop had no name, just a hanging sign with a water pitcher (tangping) symbol.

The owner was a fellow Muslim named Ma Renshan (may Allah grant him a high place in Paradise), who was from Baoding, Hebei. They mainly served steamed buns (baozi) and beef noodles, and when they had time, they would also fry large scallion pancakes (cong you bing). People who know about it always stop by the old man's place when they visit Kaohsiung. Old Mr. Ma liked me because I learned wrestling as a child, and he was a top-tier wrestling master in North and Northwest China. Everyone knows Chang Dongsheng was a national wrestling champion and a fellow Muslim, but few know Old Mr. Ma was also an expert who once challenged Chang Zhi (may Allah grant him a high place in Paradise) to a match, though Chang did not accept.

Old Mr. Ma once served as a guard battalion commander for General Yan Xishan, and he lived a quiet, retired life after coming to Taiwan. In his later years, he ran this small snack shop to make a living. After Old Mr. Ming closed his shop, Old Mr. Ma's snack shop provided a lot of convenience for the local Muslims.

In the Tainan market, several enthusiastic Muslims including Wang Peijie (now known as Liu Zhi'an) and Hui Wanju pooled their money to open a halal restaurant. Business was good, but it closed after a few years due to a fire. Later, Wang Peijie opened another halal restaurant on Wufu 4th Road in Kaohsiung, and I even held my engagement party there. Wang Laohe later came to Taipei to seek opportunities and even ran a restaurant in Saudi Arabia for a time.

In Taichung, fellow Muslims like Hui Wanjuju, Mu Huaijia, and Chai Menglin (now named Chai Jin) once opened a halal restaurant, but business was hard to sustain and they closed the shop after a few years. Later, Song Mingcai ran a restaurant called Ende Yuan across from Taichung Park for many years, but it closed when Song immigrated abroad.

In Taichung, a fellow Muslim from Henan named Ma Yukun ran a specialty dumpling shop for many years, which also closed when he immigrated. There is a small halal restaurant on Jingwu Road in Taichung City that focuses on noodle dishes; they have a wide variety with good flavors that suit the general public. The owner was surnamed Sun, a man from Henan, and he eventually closed the shop as well.

Looking at Taipei, there were several large-scale halal restaurants that could serve full-course halal banquets and were quite popular for a time. The most prominent was the Donglaishun Halal Restaurant, located on Zhonghua Road across from Ende Yuan, which was run by fellow Muslim Yang Zhongbao. Xiao Ahong (may Allah grant him a high place in Paradise) planned a forty-table wedding banquet at Donglaishun. He had just arrived in Taiwan and did not know many fellow Hui Muslims yet. When he went to book the tables, the owner, Mr. Yang, asked for a deposit. Since National Assembly representatives were not yet receiving their salaries, Xiao Ahong could not pay the deposit at that time. He eventually found a fellow Hui Muslim named Hui Wanju to act as a guarantor, which allowed the wedding to go ahead. This happened half a century ago.

Hui Wanju was born in 1913 and is now ninety-seven years old. He is from Fenghuangcheng in Andong, is still alive, and often comes to the mosque for Friday namaz. He is single and currently lives at the Guangci Care Home in Taipei. When he was young, he was very skilled at catering for both weddings and funerals and trained many apprentices in Taiwan. He worked in various halal restaurants and also opened restaurants in partnership with others. When he first arrived in Taiwan, beef was hard to find because the local people did not eat beef and would not slaughter cows. Hui Wanju started slaughtering cows in the north, central, and southern parts of the island to supply beef to various halal restaurants. In his later years, he partnered with Fengji Dim Sum Shop on Jinshan South Road to make snacks. He was famous for his sesame flatbread (shaobing) and brown sugar baked rolls (huoshao), and he also supplied mooncakes during the Mid-Autumn Festival.
Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: Halal Food Guide: Taiwan - Halal Restaurants Across the Island is presented here as a firsthand travel account in clear, natural English. The account focuses on Taiwan, Halal Food, Muslim Travel while preserving the names, places, food, photos, and historical details from the Chinese source.

I am sharing an article from the 300th issue of China Islam magazine titled 'Remembering Brother Mu Huaijia’s Passing—Reflections on the History of Halal Restaurants in Taiwan.' Today I am transcribing the second part, which recalls various halal restaurants in Kaohsiung, Tainan, Taichung, and Taipei.



In the southern city of Kaohsiung, Elder Zhao Ming (may Allah grant him a high place in Paradise) founded the restaurant Meat Pie and Porridge (xianbing zhou), which was popular with both Muslims and the general public. It only operated for a few years before closing when Elder Ming moved north to the Taipei Mosque. Later, people like Xiao Sang and Song Mingcai opened halal restaurants near the Guangfu Theater, which provided convenience for fellow Muslims.

Two elderly people also ran a snack shop that was very helpful to Muslims in the south. It was located in Kaohsiung on Qiuting Road in Dagangpu, behind the wall of the Telecommunications Bureau. It was in a row of makeshift buildings and the place was very simple. The elderly couple’s shop had no name, just a hanging sign with a water pitcher (tangping) symbol.

The owner was a fellow Muslim named Ma Renshan (may Allah grant him a high place in Paradise), who was from Baoding, Hebei. They mainly served steamed buns (baozi) and beef noodles, and when they had time, they would also fry large scallion pancakes (cong you bing). People who know about it always stop by the old man's place when they visit Kaohsiung. Old Mr. Ma liked me because I learned wrestling as a child, and he was a top-tier wrestling master in North and Northwest China. Everyone knows Chang Dongsheng was a national wrestling champion and a fellow Muslim, but few know Old Mr. Ma was also an expert who once challenged Chang Zhi (may Allah grant him a high place in Paradise) to a match, though Chang did not accept.

Old Mr. Ma once served as a guard battalion commander for General Yan Xishan, and he lived a quiet, retired life after coming to Taiwan. In his later years, he ran this small snack shop to make a living. After Old Mr. Ming closed his shop, Old Mr. Ma's snack shop provided a lot of convenience for the local Muslims.

In the Tainan market, several enthusiastic Muslims including Wang Peijie (now known as Liu Zhi'an) and Hui Wanju pooled their money to open a halal restaurant. Business was good, but it closed after a few years due to a fire. Later, Wang Peijie opened another halal restaurant on Wufu 4th Road in Kaohsiung, and I even held my engagement party there. Wang Laohe later came to Taipei to seek opportunities and even ran a restaurant in Saudi Arabia for a time.

In Taichung, fellow Muslims like Hui Wanjuju, Mu Huaijia, and Chai Menglin (now named Chai Jin) once opened a halal restaurant, but business was hard to sustain and they closed the shop after a few years. Later, Song Mingcai ran a restaurant called Ende Yuan across from Taichung Park for many years, but it closed when Song immigrated abroad.

In Taichung, a fellow Muslim from Henan named Ma Yukun ran a specialty dumpling shop for many years, which also closed when he immigrated. There is a small halal restaurant on Jingwu Road in Taichung City that focuses on noodle dishes; they have a wide variety with good flavors that suit the general public. The owner was surnamed Sun, a man from Henan, and he eventually closed the shop as well.

Looking at Taipei, there were several large-scale halal restaurants that could serve full-course halal banquets and were quite popular for a time. The most prominent was the Donglaishun Halal Restaurant, located on Zhonghua Road across from Ende Yuan, which was run by fellow Muslim Yang Zhongbao. Xiao Ahong (may Allah grant him a high place in Paradise) planned a forty-table wedding banquet at Donglaishun. He had just arrived in Taiwan and did not know many fellow Hui Muslims yet. When he went to book the tables, the owner, Mr. Yang, asked for a deposit. Since National Assembly representatives were not yet receiving their salaries, Xiao Ahong could not pay the deposit at that time. He eventually found a fellow Hui Muslim named Hui Wanju to act as a guarantor, which allowed the wedding to go ahead. This happened half a century ago.

Hui Wanju was born in 1913 and is now ninety-seven years old. He is from Fenghuangcheng in Andong, is still alive, and often comes to the mosque for Friday namaz. He is single and currently lives at the Guangci Care Home in Taipei. When he was young, he was very skilled at catering for both weddings and funerals and trained many apprentices in Taiwan. He worked in various halal restaurants and also opened restaurants in partnership with others. When he first arrived in Taiwan, beef was hard to find because the local people did not eat beef and would not slaughter cows. Hui Wanju started slaughtering cows in the north, central, and southern parts of the island to supply beef to various halal restaurants. In his later years, he partnered with Fengji Dim Sum Shop on Jinshan South Road to make snacks. He was famous for his sesame flatbread (shaobing) and brown sugar baked rolls (huoshao), and he also supplied mooncakes during the Mid-Autumn Festival. Collapse Read »

Muslim Travel Guide Beijing Ramadan: Week Three Mosques, Iftar and Muslim Community

Reposted from the web

Summary: Halal Travel Guide: Beijing Ramadan Diary - Week Three Mosques and Iftar is presented here as a firsthand travel account in clear, natural English. The account focuses on Beijing Ramadan, Mosques, Halal Food while preserving the names, places, food, photos, and historical details from the Chinese source.

Day 15, Ramadan is halfway through! We broke our fast at Balizhuang Mosque with fermented mung bean milk (douzhi) again; it was very sour and refreshing! Many elders (xianglao) went back for a second bowl. The fast-breaking meal (zhaifan) included stir-fried tripe with cilantro (yanbao dusi), yam with meatballs, and braised eggplant. I met more friends (dosti) at Balizhuang today; everyone is welcome to visit the mosque more often during Ramadan.











Day 16, Elder Li at Balizhuang Mosque made yellow rice cake (huangmi qiegao) and Elder Fu made fried vegetable meatballs; both were delicious. Every elder at Balizhuang Mosque has a special hidden talent. For the fast-breaking meal, we had noodles with shredded chicken sauce and noodles with diced eggplant sauce, featuring both wheat noodles and oat noodles (youmian) from Zhangjiakou. The noodle toppings included blanched cabbage, blanched cowpeas, blanched bean sprouts, shredded cucumber, and shredded radish, making for a very rich texture.

















Day 17, Balizhuang Mosque continued to break the fast with fermented mung bean milk. The meal included large steamed buns (baozi) with cowpea and fennel fillings, which were impossible to stop eating when paired with rice porridge.

















I received camel milk soap given as charity (chusan) by an elder at Balizhuang Mosque; may it bring reward (thawab).



In the evening, I met up with friends (dosti) to pray Tarawih at the Sudanese Embassy. The Sudanese Embassy is right next to Tuanjiehu subway station. We arrived at 7:50 and were able to enter after showing our ID cards at the intersection. The call to prayer (adhan) was at 8:05, and the prayer started at 8:30. There were friends (dosti) from all over the world in the hall, with people of all skin colors standing in rows; it really felt like being abroad. The imam for Tarawih was a young hafiz from Libya whose recitation was melodic, pleasant, and very moving. We prayed eight units (rak'ah) of Tarawih, with a greeting (salam) every four units. The final Witr prayer consisted of two units with a salam, followed by one single unit. This is quite different from the traditional prayer methods of the Gedimu Hui Muslims.

















My Ramadan collection includes a teacup fired in Jingdezhen in the 1980s, featuring a traditional calligraphy style common in southern China. The lid is inscribed with gratitude, blessings, mercy, and worship, while the cup body reads, 'Mercy draws near to those who do good' and 'The stingy cannot enter paradise, even if they are people who worship Allah.'









On the 18th day, a friend (dosti) from Hunan invited us to break our fast at Nanxiapo Mosque, where we had a very delicious meal of stewed meat with rice. I met many new friends during this time; Ramadan is truly a great opportunity for everyone to gather together.















On the 19th day, I went to the Carthage Arabic Restaurant on Dongzhimen Outer Street for the iftar buffet. It is a new spot opened by Adel, the head chef of La Medina, in the breakfast area on the first floor of the Atour X Hotel in Sanlitun Taikoo Li, still focusing on Tunisian flavors. Since it has not been open long, it is mostly frequented by foreign friends (dosti) from the nearby embassy district, so there is no need to wait in line.

Because Adel is in charge, the dishes are similar to those at La Medina, though the variety is slightly smaller. Appetizers include chickpea dip (hummus), parsley salad (tabbouleh), and the Tunisian-style roasted eggplant salad (mechouia). Besides roasted eggplant, the roasted eggplant salad (mechouia) contains tomatoes, chili peppers, onions, and olive oil, making it very healthy.

The main course features North African sausage (merguez), made from lamb and beef mixed with cumin, harissa, chili, and various other spices. It appeared as early as the 12th century in Andalusia and later spread throughout North Africa.

They also serve the classic North African Maghreb tomato and chili poached egg dish (shakshouka). The tomato and chili poached egg dish (shakshouka) originated in North Africa under Ottoman rule in the 16th century, when tomatoes and chili peppers were introduced to North Africa from the Americas and then became part of the local diet.

They also have the Arabic version of fried triangular pastries (sambousek), which is a classic Ramadan snack for Arabs. The fried triangular pastry (sambousek) originated in Iran and entered the Arab diet after the 10th century, later spreading to India, China, Indonesia, and Africa. In some parts of eastern China, Hui Muslims still use its Persian name, 'sanmosan'.



















On the 20th day, two-thirds of Ramadan has passed. At Balizhuang Mosque, they freshly made sugar-rolled fruit (tangjuanguo) and fried crispy dough (zhagezhi). I continued to break my fast with mung bean milk (douzhi), ate stir-fried green beans with meat and braised meatballs (huisongrou) for the meal, and thirteen elders joined in the opening prayer (kaijing). Breaking the fast at the mosque brings richness to both the spirit and the body.



















Ramadan collection. I received a traditional late Qing Dynasty Tianjin-style pine wood dua plaque made by teacher Wang Qifei, which reads, 'O Allah!' Grant Your forgiveness and mercy to those who live in this house and to the believers who enter it!'





On the twenty-first day, the elders at Balizhuang Mosque gathered to make dumplings (jiaozi) with carrot and cabbage fillings. Nothing really beats the taste of dumplings! After eating, I felt full of energy and ready for the Taraweeh prayers.







Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: Halal Travel Guide: Beijing Ramadan Diary - Week Three Mosques and Iftar is presented here as a firsthand travel account in clear, natural English. The account focuses on Beijing Ramadan, Mosques, Halal Food while preserving the names, places, food, photos, and historical details from the Chinese source.

Day 15, Ramadan is halfway through! We broke our fast at Balizhuang Mosque with fermented mung bean milk (douzhi) again; it was very sour and refreshing! Many elders (xianglao) went back for a second bowl. The fast-breaking meal (zhaifan) included stir-fried tripe with cilantro (yanbao dusi), yam with meatballs, and braised eggplant. I met more friends (dosti) at Balizhuang today; everyone is welcome to visit the mosque more often during Ramadan.











Day 16, Elder Li at Balizhuang Mosque made yellow rice cake (huangmi qiegao) and Elder Fu made fried vegetable meatballs; both were delicious. Every elder at Balizhuang Mosque has a special hidden talent. For the fast-breaking meal, we had noodles with shredded chicken sauce and noodles with diced eggplant sauce, featuring both wheat noodles and oat noodles (youmian) from Zhangjiakou. The noodle toppings included blanched cabbage, blanched cowpeas, blanched bean sprouts, shredded cucumber, and shredded radish, making for a very rich texture.

















Day 17, Balizhuang Mosque continued to break the fast with fermented mung bean milk. The meal included large steamed buns (baozi) with cowpea and fennel fillings, which were impossible to stop eating when paired with rice porridge.

















I received camel milk soap given as charity (chusan) by an elder at Balizhuang Mosque; may it bring reward (thawab).



In the evening, I met up with friends (dosti) to pray Tarawih at the Sudanese Embassy. The Sudanese Embassy is right next to Tuanjiehu subway station. We arrived at 7:50 and were able to enter after showing our ID cards at the intersection. The call to prayer (adhan) was at 8:05, and the prayer started at 8:30. There were friends (dosti) from all over the world in the hall, with people of all skin colors standing in rows; it really felt like being abroad. The imam for Tarawih was a young hafiz from Libya whose recitation was melodic, pleasant, and very moving. We prayed eight units (rak'ah) of Tarawih, with a greeting (salam) every four units. The final Witr prayer consisted of two units with a salam, followed by one single unit. This is quite different from the traditional prayer methods of the Gedimu Hui Muslims.

















My Ramadan collection includes a teacup fired in Jingdezhen in the 1980s, featuring a traditional calligraphy style common in southern China. The lid is inscribed with gratitude, blessings, mercy, and worship, while the cup body reads, 'Mercy draws near to those who do good' and 'The stingy cannot enter paradise, even if they are people who worship Allah.'









On the 18th day, a friend (dosti) from Hunan invited us to break our fast at Nanxiapo Mosque, where we had a very delicious meal of stewed meat with rice. I met many new friends during this time; Ramadan is truly a great opportunity for everyone to gather together.















On the 19th day, I went to the Carthage Arabic Restaurant on Dongzhimen Outer Street for the iftar buffet. It is a new spot opened by Adel, the head chef of La Medina, in the breakfast area on the first floor of the Atour X Hotel in Sanlitun Taikoo Li, still focusing on Tunisian flavors. Since it has not been open long, it is mostly frequented by foreign friends (dosti) from the nearby embassy district, so there is no need to wait in line.

Because Adel is in charge, the dishes are similar to those at La Medina, though the variety is slightly smaller. Appetizers include chickpea dip (hummus), parsley salad (tabbouleh), and the Tunisian-style roasted eggplant salad (mechouia). Besides roasted eggplant, the roasted eggplant salad (mechouia) contains tomatoes, chili peppers, onions, and olive oil, making it very healthy.

The main course features North African sausage (merguez), made from lamb and beef mixed with cumin, harissa, chili, and various other spices. It appeared as early as the 12th century in Andalusia and later spread throughout North Africa.

They also serve the classic North African Maghreb tomato and chili poached egg dish (shakshouka). The tomato and chili poached egg dish (shakshouka) originated in North Africa under Ottoman rule in the 16th century, when tomatoes and chili peppers were introduced to North Africa from the Americas and then became part of the local diet.

They also have the Arabic version of fried triangular pastries (sambousek), which is a classic Ramadan snack for Arabs. The fried triangular pastry (sambousek) originated in Iran and entered the Arab diet after the 10th century, later spreading to India, China, Indonesia, and Africa. In some parts of eastern China, Hui Muslims still use its Persian name, 'sanmosan'.



















On the 20th day, two-thirds of Ramadan has passed. At Balizhuang Mosque, they freshly made sugar-rolled fruit (tangjuanguo) and fried crispy dough (zhagezhi). I continued to break my fast with mung bean milk (douzhi), ate stir-fried green beans with meat and braised meatballs (huisongrou) for the meal, and thirteen elders joined in the opening prayer (kaijing). Breaking the fast at the mosque brings richness to both the spirit and the body.



















Ramadan collection. I received a traditional late Qing Dynasty Tianjin-style pine wood dua plaque made by teacher Wang Qifei, which reads, 'O Allah!' Grant Your forgiveness and mercy to those who live in this house and to the believers who enter it!'





On the twenty-first day, the elders at Balizhuang Mosque gathered to make dumplings (jiaozi) with carrot and cabbage fillings. Nothing really beats the taste of dumplings! After eating, I felt full of energy and ready for the Taraweeh prayers.







Collapse Read »

Muslim History Guide Cairo: Museum of Islamic Art and Muslim Heritage (Part 1)

Reposted from the web

Summary: Islamic Art Guide: Museum of Islamic Art in Cairo (Part 1) is presented here as a firsthand travel account in clear, natural English. The account focuses on Cairo, Islamic Art, Museum Travel while preserving the names, places, food, photos, and historical details from the Chinese source.

In the 19th century, Egypt placed great importance on Pharaonic art, but appreciation for Islamic art lagged behind. In 1880, Tewfik Pasha, the sixth ruler of the Muhammad Ali dynasty, finally established the first museum of Islamic art.

In 1881, Tewfik Pasha approved the creation of the Committee for the Preservation of Arab Monuments. The arcades of the abandoned Al-Hakim Mosque inside the northern gate of Cairo were used as a temporary exhibition hall to display hundreds of artifacts. In 1884, a two-story building was constructed in the mosque courtyard to house 900 artifacts. In 1887, the museum was named the Museum of Arab Antiquities. By 1895, the collection had grown to 1,641 items, and the museum space reached capacity. In 1902, the new Mamluk-style museum building was officially completed, which is the building we see today.

The Cairo Museum of Islamic Art building once featured complex decorative designs inspired by architecture from various periods of Islamic history. In 2014, a car bomb attack targeting the Cairo police headquarters across the street caused severe damage to the museum. Nearly 30 percent of the artifacts were damaged, and the exterior wall decorations were also destroyed. After three years of restoration, the museum reopened in 2017.



















The hall after the entrance provides a general introduction, showcasing a selection of unique Islamic artifacts from different perspectives.

An 8th-century Umayyad dynasty Quran in Kufic script from Egypt, written in brown ink on parchment.



An enameled water jug and basin from the 19th-century Qajar dynasty of Iran, featuring Persian-style figures and floral patterns.





The oldest surviving key to the Kaaba, made in 1363-4, belonging to the Egyptian Mamluk Sultan Al-Ashraf Sha'ban (reigned 1363-77).





An 18th-century Ottoman qibla indicator, made by the manufacturer Barun al-Mukhtar during the reign of Sultan Mahmud I (reigned 1730-54). It shows the appearance of the Sacred Mosque (Masjid al-Haram) after the 1629 Ottoman renovation, a structure that remained until 1955.







A 15th-century Mamluk-period mosque glass lamp from Egypt, bearing the name of Emir Safy al-Din Shaykhu.



After passing through the hall, the exhibition continues with Islamic artifacts arranged in chronological order.

Early days of the faith.

A wood carving panel from Egypt during the Abbasid Caliphate in the 9th century.



A wooden chest panel inlaid with ivory and bone from Egypt during the Tulunid dynasty in the 9th century.







An ivory plaque with floral carvings from Egypt during the Umayyad Caliphate in the 7th to 8th centuries.



A wood carving panel with floral decorations from Egypt or Syria during the Umayyad Caliphate in the 8th century.









An underglaze painted ceramic plate from Iraq during the Abbasid Caliphate in the 8th to 9th centuries.





A stucco carving panel in the Samarra style from Iraq during the Abbasid Caliphate in the 9th century. Samarra is located on the east bank of the Tigris River and served as the capital of the Abbasid Caliphate from 836 to 892.



Fatimid Caliphate.

A 10th-century Kufic script stucco window frame from the Western Palace of the Fatimid Caliphate in Cairo. It is truly a masterpiece of the museum; you can see its size by comparing it to the child in the bottom right corner. The Fatimid palace in Cairo was built in 970 and was divided into two parts: the Eastern Palace and the Western Palace. The Western Palace was smaller and originally built for the Fatimid princess Sitt al-Mulk, then renovated by the Caliph in 1064. In 1284-1285, the Mamluk Sultan al-Mansur Qalawun built a massive complex on the site of the Fatimid Western Palace. The hospital within the complex used some architectural elements from the Fatimid Western Palace, and this window frame came from the Qalawun Hospital.







A ceramic plate from Egypt during the Fatimid Caliphate in the 10th to 11th centuries, depicting various music and banquet scenes.









A ceramic plate from Egypt during the Fatimid period in the 11th century, depicting a rider holding a falcon.





A ceramic plate from Egypt during the Fatimid Caliphate in the 11th to 12th centuries, showing two people performing the traditional Egyptian stick fighting, Tahtib.



This 11th-century stucco mural from Egypt dates to the Fatimid dynasty and comes from the wall of a Fatimid-era bathhouse.









This small wooden prayer niche (mihrab) from 10th-11th century Fatimid Egypt features inscriptions with Shia content.







This 10th-11th century Fatimid Egyptian ceramic plate shows an image of the Prophet Isa (Jesus), which serves as evidence of the religious tolerance of that time.



This 11th-century Fatimid Egyptian ceramic plate is inscribed with the name of the commander Ghaban.





This 11th-century Fatimid Egyptian ceramic plate features a griffin design. The image of the griffin can be traced back to ancient Egyptian art from 3000 BC, later spreading to West Asia and the Mediterranean region. Because the lion rules the land and the eagle rules the sky, the griffin, which combines the features of both, became a symbol of nobility and power.











This 11th-century Fatimid Egyptian ceramic plate features images of humans, animals, and birds.





This 11th-century Fatimid Egyptian marble carving features Kufic calligraphy.





These stucco windows and wooden doors from the Al-Salih Tala'i Mosque in Cairo date to the late Fatimid period in 1160. The Al-Salih Tala'i Mosque is located outside the south gate of the old city of Cairo and was commissioned by the Fatimid vizier Tala'i ibn Ruzzik, who was the last powerful and capable vizier of the Fatimid dynasty. The Al-Salih Tala'i Mosque was completed only 11 years before the fall of the Fatimid dynasty, making it the last surviving building from the Fatimid era.











This wooden door from the Al-Azhar Mosque in Cairo dates to the Fatimid period in 1010 and was commissioned by Caliph al-Hakim bi-Amr Allah, who reigned from 996 to 1021. Al-Hakim was the first Fatimid caliph born in Cairo, an important imam in the history of Ismaili Shia Islam, and a central figure in the Druze faith. At that time, the city of Fustat on the south side of old Cairo was a densely populated Sunni city, while the newly built city of Cairo served as the capital of the Fatimid dynasty and the center of Ismaili Shia Islam. The Al-Azhar Mosque in Cairo is the city's official congregational mosque, where the caliph would deliver the khutbah sermon every Friday during Jumu'ah prayer.





The 12th-century Fatimid-era wooden prayer niche (mihrab) and wooden doors inside the Sayyida Nafisa mausoleum in Cairo. Sayyida Nafisa (762-824) was the great-granddaughter of Imam Hasan, the grandson of the Prophet. She was a famous Egyptian scholar of hadith who served as a mentor to Imam Shafi'i and provided him with financial support.

The Nafisa mausoleum is located in Cairo's famous City of the Dead. It was first built during the Abbasid period and later renovated and rebuilt during the Fatimid period. Nafisa was the first descendant of Imam Ali to be honored during the Fatimid period. As a Sunni and a descendant of Ali, she helped promote reconciliation between the Sunni and Shia populations within the Fatimid dynasty.









Ayyubid dynasty

A 12th-century wooden chest from the Hussein Mosque in Cairo. The Hussein Mosque is located across from the Al-Azhar Mosque in Cairo. It was first built in 1154 and is said to house the head of Imam Hussein.







A 13th-century wooden carving from the Ayyubid dynasty in Egypt.







A 1213 marble slab from the Ayyubid dynasty in Egypt inscribed with the name of Sultan Al-Kamil. Al-Kamil was the fifth sultan of the Ayyubid dynasty. During his reign, he defeated the Fifth Crusade, but he handed Jerusalem over to the Crusaders for ten years during the Sixth Crusade.



Marble slabs from the Ayyubid dynasty in Egypt dated 1184 and 1187, inscribed with the name of Sultan Saladin. Saladin was the founder of the Ayyubid dynasty. During the Third Crusade, he launched a series of military campaigns against the Crusaders in the Levant and recaptured Jerusalem, restoring Muslim rule in the region.



Wooden panels and doors made in 1178 during the Ayyubid period, found in the mausoleum of Imam Shafi'i in Cairo. Imam Shafi'i was the founder of the Shafi'i school of law and one of the four great imams of Sunni Islam. Imam Shafi'i arrived in Cairo in 813 and passed away there in 819. Sultan Saladin built his mausoleum in 1178, which features exquisite wood carvings inside. These include complex geometric patterns, scripture, and an introduction to the life of Imam al-Shafi'i.







A marble slab from the 12th-century Ayyubid dynasty in Egypt, featuring carvings of griffins and creatures with human heads and bird bodies.





Stucco carvings from the 13th-century Ayyubid dynasty at the Al-Kamil Madrasa in Cairo. The Al-Kamil Madrasa was built in 1225 by the Ayyubid Sultan al-Kamil in the northern part of the former Fatimid Western Palace in Old Cairo, and it was one of Egypt's educational centers during the 13th and 14th centuries.





A flint window from the 13th-century Ayyubid dynasty at the Sayf ibn Yazan tomb in Cairo.



Mamluk Dynasty.

A marble slab from the 14th-century Mamluk period at the Sarghatmish Madrasa in Cairo. The Sarghatmish Madrasa was built in 1356 by order of the Mamluk Emir General Sirghitmish. In the 1350s, Sirghitmish was the most powerful emir of the Mamluk dynasty.





A copper candlestick inscribed with the name of the Mamluk Sultan al-Nasir Muhammad, who reigned from 1299 to 1309.



A copper candlestick inscribed with the name of the Mamluk Sultan Qaitbay, who reigned from 1468 to 1496, donated by the Sultan to the Prophet's Mosque in Medina. Although Sultan Qaitbay built many structures in Cairo, his greatest achievement was the restoration of the Prophet's Mosque in Medina. After a fire at the Prophet's Mosque in 1481, Sultan Qaitbay rebuilt the tomb of the Prophet from a wooden structure into a brick one, added metal railings, and donated many chandeliers and candlesticks to the mosque.





A copper candlestick inlaid with silver from the 14th to 15th-century Mamluk dynasty.



A copper candlestick inscribed with the name of the wife of the Mamluk Sultan Qaitbay.



A copper incense burner inlaid with gold and silver from the 14th-century Mamluk dynasty.





A wooden door from the 13th-century Mamluk period at the Salihiyya Madrasa in Cairo. The Ayyubid Sultan As-Salih Ayyub founded the Salihiyya Madrasa in 1242, and it was one of Egypt's most famous centers of education during the 13th and 14th centuries.





A 14th-century Mamluk-era wooden cabinet from Egypt, inlaid with painted ivory decorations.







Above is a 13th-14th century Mamluk double-headed eagle marble carving from Egypt, and below is a 13th-century marble carving featuring the lion emblem of the Mamluk Sultan Baybars I (reigned 1260-1277). Baybars was the fourth sultan of the Mamluk dynasty and a tough military leader who defeated invasions by the Crusaders and the Mongol army.







A glass lamp from a 14th-century Mamluk-era mosque in Egypt.









A 14th-century Mamluk-era wooden Quran box and table inlaid with ebony and ivory from the Umm al-Sultan Sha'ban Madrasa in Cairo. The Mamluk Sultan Al-Ashraf Sha'ban ordered the construction of the madrasa in 1368-9 to honor his mother, who was on a pilgrimage (hajj) at the time.



Two Mamluk-era wood carvings; the first one bears the name of Sultan Qaitbay (reigned 1468-96). Qaitbay was one of the sultans who sponsored the most architecture in Mamluk history. Although the Mamluk dynasty was in decline, the situation remained relatively stable and commerce flourished under Sultan Qaitbay's rule.

The second carving bears the name of the Mamluk Sultan Al-Ashraf Qansuh al-Ghuri (reigned 1501-16). He was the second-to-last sultan of the Mamluk Sultanate. The Ottoman Sultan Selim I killed him in 1516, which marked the shift of control in the Middle East from the Mamluk dynasty to the Ottoman dynasty.



Components of a minbar (pulpit) from the 14th-century Mamluk-era Al-Khatiri-Boulaq mosque in Egypt.





A 15th-century Mamluk-era stucco window from Egypt.



A wooden ceiling with carvings of the name of Mamluk Sultan Qaitbay (reigned 1468-96) inside the Al-Azhar Mosque in Cairo.







Tiles on the Qaitbay fountain (sabil) in Cairo. Sultan Qaitbay built the Qaitbay fountain (sabil) in 1479. It was Cairo's first independent fountain-primary school (sabil-kuttab) building, a structure that became very common during the later Ottoman period.



A tile featuring the name of the Mamluk Sultan Al-Ashraf Janbalat, who reigned from 1500 to 1501.



A 15th-century tile from the Mamluk dynasty.



A 15th-century Mamluk dynasty marble slab decorated with mother-of-pearl mosaic.



A 14th to 15th-century Mamluk dynasty marble slab with geometric patterns.

Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: Islamic Art Guide: Museum of Islamic Art in Cairo (Part 1) is presented here as a firsthand travel account in clear, natural English. The account focuses on Cairo, Islamic Art, Museum Travel while preserving the names, places, food, photos, and historical details from the Chinese source.

In the 19th century, Egypt placed great importance on Pharaonic art, but appreciation for Islamic art lagged behind. In 1880, Tewfik Pasha, the sixth ruler of the Muhammad Ali dynasty, finally established the first museum of Islamic art.

In 1881, Tewfik Pasha approved the creation of the Committee for the Preservation of Arab Monuments. The arcades of the abandoned Al-Hakim Mosque inside the northern gate of Cairo were used as a temporary exhibition hall to display hundreds of artifacts. In 1884, a two-story building was constructed in the mosque courtyard to house 900 artifacts. In 1887, the museum was named the Museum of Arab Antiquities. By 1895, the collection had grown to 1,641 items, and the museum space reached capacity. In 1902, the new Mamluk-style museum building was officially completed, which is the building we see today.

The Cairo Museum of Islamic Art building once featured complex decorative designs inspired by architecture from various periods of Islamic history. In 2014, a car bomb attack targeting the Cairo police headquarters across the street caused severe damage to the museum. Nearly 30 percent of the artifacts were damaged, and the exterior wall decorations were also destroyed. After three years of restoration, the museum reopened in 2017.



















The hall after the entrance provides a general introduction, showcasing a selection of unique Islamic artifacts from different perspectives.

An 8th-century Umayyad dynasty Quran in Kufic script from Egypt, written in brown ink on parchment.



An enameled water jug and basin from the 19th-century Qajar dynasty of Iran, featuring Persian-style figures and floral patterns.





The oldest surviving key to the Kaaba, made in 1363-4, belonging to the Egyptian Mamluk Sultan Al-Ashraf Sha'ban (reigned 1363-77).





An 18th-century Ottoman qibla indicator, made by the manufacturer Barun al-Mukhtar during the reign of Sultan Mahmud I (reigned 1730-54). It shows the appearance of the Sacred Mosque (Masjid al-Haram) after the 1629 Ottoman renovation, a structure that remained until 1955.







A 15th-century Mamluk-period mosque glass lamp from Egypt, bearing the name of Emir Safy al-Din Shaykhu.



After passing through the hall, the exhibition continues with Islamic artifacts arranged in chronological order.

Early days of the faith.

A wood carving panel from Egypt during the Abbasid Caliphate in the 9th century.



A wooden chest panel inlaid with ivory and bone from Egypt during the Tulunid dynasty in the 9th century.







An ivory plaque with floral carvings from Egypt during the Umayyad Caliphate in the 7th to 8th centuries.



A wood carving panel with floral decorations from Egypt or Syria during the Umayyad Caliphate in the 8th century.









An underglaze painted ceramic plate from Iraq during the Abbasid Caliphate in the 8th to 9th centuries.





A stucco carving panel in the Samarra style from Iraq during the Abbasid Caliphate in the 9th century. Samarra is located on the east bank of the Tigris River and served as the capital of the Abbasid Caliphate from 836 to 892.



Fatimid Caliphate.

A 10th-century Kufic script stucco window frame from the Western Palace of the Fatimid Caliphate in Cairo. It is truly a masterpiece of the museum; you can see its size by comparing it to the child in the bottom right corner. The Fatimid palace in Cairo was built in 970 and was divided into two parts: the Eastern Palace and the Western Palace. The Western Palace was smaller and originally built for the Fatimid princess Sitt al-Mulk, then renovated by the Caliph in 1064. In 1284-1285, the Mamluk Sultan al-Mansur Qalawun built a massive complex on the site of the Fatimid Western Palace. The hospital within the complex used some architectural elements from the Fatimid Western Palace, and this window frame came from the Qalawun Hospital.







A ceramic plate from Egypt during the Fatimid Caliphate in the 10th to 11th centuries, depicting various music and banquet scenes.









A ceramic plate from Egypt during the Fatimid period in the 11th century, depicting a rider holding a falcon.





A ceramic plate from Egypt during the Fatimid Caliphate in the 11th to 12th centuries, showing two people performing the traditional Egyptian stick fighting, Tahtib.



This 11th-century stucco mural from Egypt dates to the Fatimid dynasty and comes from the wall of a Fatimid-era bathhouse.









This small wooden prayer niche (mihrab) from 10th-11th century Fatimid Egypt features inscriptions with Shia content.







This 10th-11th century Fatimid Egyptian ceramic plate shows an image of the Prophet Isa (Jesus), which serves as evidence of the religious tolerance of that time.



This 11th-century Fatimid Egyptian ceramic plate is inscribed with the name of the commander Ghaban.





This 11th-century Fatimid Egyptian ceramic plate features a griffin design. The image of the griffin can be traced back to ancient Egyptian art from 3000 BC, later spreading to West Asia and the Mediterranean region. Because the lion rules the land and the eagle rules the sky, the griffin, which combines the features of both, became a symbol of nobility and power.











This 11th-century Fatimid Egyptian ceramic plate features images of humans, animals, and birds.





This 11th-century Fatimid Egyptian marble carving features Kufic calligraphy.





These stucco windows and wooden doors from the Al-Salih Tala'i Mosque in Cairo date to the late Fatimid period in 1160. The Al-Salih Tala'i Mosque is located outside the south gate of the old city of Cairo and was commissioned by the Fatimid vizier Tala'i ibn Ruzzik, who was the last powerful and capable vizier of the Fatimid dynasty. The Al-Salih Tala'i Mosque was completed only 11 years before the fall of the Fatimid dynasty, making it the last surviving building from the Fatimid era.











This wooden door from the Al-Azhar Mosque in Cairo dates to the Fatimid period in 1010 and was commissioned by Caliph al-Hakim bi-Amr Allah, who reigned from 996 to 1021. Al-Hakim was the first Fatimid caliph born in Cairo, an important imam in the history of Ismaili Shia Islam, and a central figure in the Druze faith. At that time, the city of Fustat on the south side of old Cairo was a densely populated Sunni city, while the newly built city of Cairo served as the capital of the Fatimid dynasty and the center of Ismaili Shia Islam. The Al-Azhar Mosque in Cairo is the city's official congregational mosque, where the caliph would deliver the khutbah sermon every Friday during Jumu'ah prayer.





The 12th-century Fatimid-era wooden prayer niche (mihrab) and wooden doors inside the Sayyida Nafisa mausoleum in Cairo. Sayyida Nafisa (762-824) was the great-granddaughter of Imam Hasan, the grandson of the Prophet. She was a famous Egyptian scholar of hadith who served as a mentor to Imam Shafi'i and provided him with financial support.

The Nafisa mausoleum is located in Cairo's famous City of the Dead. It was first built during the Abbasid period and later renovated and rebuilt during the Fatimid period. Nafisa was the first descendant of Imam Ali to be honored during the Fatimid period. As a Sunni and a descendant of Ali, she helped promote reconciliation between the Sunni and Shia populations within the Fatimid dynasty.









Ayyubid dynasty

A 12th-century wooden chest from the Hussein Mosque in Cairo. The Hussein Mosque is located across from the Al-Azhar Mosque in Cairo. It was first built in 1154 and is said to house the head of Imam Hussein.







A 13th-century wooden carving from the Ayyubid dynasty in Egypt.







A 1213 marble slab from the Ayyubid dynasty in Egypt inscribed with the name of Sultan Al-Kamil. Al-Kamil was the fifth sultan of the Ayyubid dynasty. During his reign, he defeated the Fifth Crusade, but he handed Jerusalem over to the Crusaders for ten years during the Sixth Crusade.



Marble slabs from the Ayyubid dynasty in Egypt dated 1184 and 1187, inscribed with the name of Sultan Saladin. Saladin was the founder of the Ayyubid dynasty. During the Third Crusade, he launched a series of military campaigns against the Crusaders in the Levant and recaptured Jerusalem, restoring Muslim rule in the region.



Wooden panels and doors made in 1178 during the Ayyubid period, found in the mausoleum of Imam Shafi'i in Cairo. Imam Shafi'i was the founder of the Shafi'i school of law and one of the four great imams of Sunni Islam. Imam Shafi'i arrived in Cairo in 813 and passed away there in 819. Sultan Saladin built his mausoleum in 1178, which features exquisite wood carvings inside. These include complex geometric patterns, scripture, and an introduction to the life of Imam al-Shafi'i.







A marble slab from the 12th-century Ayyubid dynasty in Egypt, featuring carvings of griffins and creatures with human heads and bird bodies.





Stucco carvings from the 13th-century Ayyubid dynasty at the Al-Kamil Madrasa in Cairo. The Al-Kamil Madrasa was built in 1225 by the Ayyubid Sultan al-Kamil in the northern part of the former Fatimid Western Palace in Old Cairo, and it was one of Egypt's educational centers during the 13th and 14th centuries.





A flint window from the 13th-century Ayyubid dynasty at the Sayf ibn Yazan tomb in Cairo.



Mamluk Dynasty.

A marble slab from the 14th-century Mamluk period at the Sarghatmish Madrasa in Cairo. The Sarghatmish Madrasa was built in 1356 by order of the Mamluk Emir General Sirghitmish. In the 1350s, Sirghitmish was the most powerful emir of the Mamluk dynasty.





A copper candlestick inscribed with the name of the Mamluk Sultan al-Nasir Muhammad, who reigned from 1299 to 1309.



A copper candlestick inscribed with the name of the Mamluk Sultan Qaitbay, who reigned from 1468 to 1496, donated by the Sultan to the Prophet's Mosque in Medina. Although Sultan Qaitbay built many structures in Cairo, his greatest achievement was the restoration of the Prophet's Mosque in Medina. After a fire at the Prophet's Mosque in 1481, Sultan Qaitbay rebuilt the tomb of the Prophet from a wooden structure into a brick one, added metal railings, and donated many chandeliers and candlesticks to the mosque.





A copper candlestick inlaid with silver from the 14th to 15th-century Mamluk dynasty.



A copper candlestick inscribed with the name of the wife of the Mamluk Sultan Qaitbay.



A copper incense burner inlaid with gold and silver from the 14th-century Mamluk dynasty.





A wooden door from the 13th-century Mamluk period at the Salihiyya Madrasa in Cairo. The Ayyubid Sultan As-Salih Ayyub founded the Salihiyya Madrasa in 1242, and it was one of Egypt's most famous centers of education during the 13th and 14th centuries.





A 14th-century Mamluk-era wooden cabinet from Egypt, inlaid with painted ivory decorations.







Above is a 13th-14th century Mamluk double-headed eagle marble carving from Egypt, and below is a 13th-century marble carving featuring the lion emblem of the Mamluk Sultan Baybars I (reigned 1260-1277). Baybars was the fourth sultan of the Mamluk dynasty and a tough military leader who defeated invasions by the Crusaders and the Mongol army.







A glass lamp from a 14th-century Mamluk-era mosque in Egypt.









A 14th-century Mamluk-era wooden Quran box and table inlaid with ebony and ivory from the Umm al-Sultan Sha'ban Madrasa in Cairo. The Mamluk Sultan Al-Ashraf Sha'ban ordered the construction of the madrasa in 1368-9 to honor his mother, who was on a pilgrimage (hajj) at the time.



Two Mamluk-era wood carvings; the first one bears the name of Sultan Qaitbay (reigned 1468-96). Qaitbay was one of the sultans who sponsored the most architecture in Mamluk history. Although the Mamluk dynasty was in decline, the situation remained relatively stable and commerce flourished under Sultan Qaitbay's rule.

The second carving bears the name of the Mamluk Sultan Al-Ashraf Qansuh al-Ghuri (reigned 1501-16). He was the second-to-last sultan of the Mamluk Sultanate. The Ottoman Sultan Selim I killed him in 1516, which marked the shift of control in the Middle East from the Mamluk dynasty to the Ottoman dynasty.



Components of a minbar (pulpit) from the 14th-century Mamluk-era Al-Khatiri-Boulaq mosque in Egypt.





A 15th-century Mamluk-era stucco window from Egypt.



A wooden ceiling with carvings of the name of Mamluk Sultan Qaitbay (reigned 1468-96) inside the Al-Azhar Mosque in Cairo.







Tiles on the Qaitbay fountain (sabil) in Cairo. Sultan Qaitbay built the Qaitbay fountain (sabil) in 1479. It was Cairo's first independent fountain-primary school (sabil-kuttab) building, a structure that became very common during the later Ottoman period.



A tile featuring the name of the Mamluk Sultan Al-Ashraf Janbalat, who reigned from 1500 to 1501.



A 15th-century tile from the Mamluk dynasty.



A 15th-century Mamluk dynasty marble slab decorated with mother-of-pearl mosaic.



A 14th to 15th-century Mamluk dynasty marble slab with geometric patterns.

Collapse Read »

Muslim Travel Guide Urumqi Spring Festival: Hui Muslim Life, Jumu'ah and Family Visits

Reposted from the web

Summary: This Urumqi article records Hui Muslim life during the Spring Festival, including nianye, luohuali, Jumuah prayer, and visiting relatives and friends. It preserves the original religious customs, family scenes, food details, and community observations in natural English.

Night of Prayer (nianye).

During the 2024 Spring Festival holiday, I took Suleiman to visit his grandparents (anai aye) in Urumqi, just in time for the noble month of Sha'ban (the eighth month of the Islamic calendar). The evening of the 15th day of the eighth month is the Night of Bara'at, which means the Night of Atonement. On this night, the two angels on our shoulders replace the scrolls that record our good and bad deeds for the year. They seal the old scrolls and open new ones, which serve as evidence for questioning when we enter the afterlife, so it is also called the Night of Exchanging Scrolls. In the traditions of Hui Muslims in some regions, when the month of Sha'ban arrives, everyone takes turns inviting the imam and friends and family to their homes for a Night of Prayer. The main process includes reciting scriptures, praising the Prophet, performing repentance (tawbah), and asking for forgiveness for family members and the deceased. Afterward, everyone eats a rich meal to strengthen bonds, boost faith, and prepare for the noble month of Ramadan.

February 17 was our family's Night of Prayer, and we also celebrated Suleiman's first birthday (suisuizi). We invited four imams and a large group of relatives to recite surahs, recite the Bara'at praise, perform repentance, and receive dua, followed by a meal. First, we served appetizers (diediezi) and tea. The appetizers included nut tarts and baklava we bought at a Uyghur pastry shop on Hetian Street, as well as traditional flaky pastries and fried flour cakes (saqima) made by my aunt. After everyone chatted for a while, we cleared the appetizers and brought out the main dishes to officially start the feast.

With the help of my aunts, we prepared a rich feast. The main dishes were clear-stewed lamb, braised beef steak, followed by steamed starch jelly (mengzi), pearl meatballs, peppercorn chicken, steamed fish, sweet rice platter (tianpanzi), and various stir-fried dishes. The staples were fried dough (youxiang), steamed buns (momo), and rice.



















The fried dough was deep-fried a day in advance. Before frying, we first performed ablution (wudu), then leavened the dough. After it rose, we scalded a small portion with hot oil and mixed in a little baking soda and fenugreek powder. We kneaded the scalded dough into the leavened dough, covered the basin, and let it rest for 15 minutes. After resting, we rolled it into a long shape, pinched off pieces, rolled them into flat cakes, cut four small slits with a knife, and it was ready to be fried. When putting them into the pot, we recited the Tasmiyah. We fried them for a while, flipped them, and tapped the edges with chopsticks; once they were firm, they were done.











To make sweet rice platter (tianpanzi), first wash the glutinous rice and soak it for three days. Then, add a little brown sugar (shazitang) and steam it, using more water than you would for regular rice. Next, wash red dates, walnut kernels, and raisins, and spread them at the bottom of a bowl. Cover them with the steamed glutinous rice and let it cool. After that, boil rock sugar to make a syrup. Finally, flip the bowl of rice onto a plate and pour the syrup over it.







Meatloaf (munzi) is made with ground beef. When mixing the filling, beat it repeatedly, then shape it into a cylinder. Pinch the top to look like a railing, pour an egg into the center, and steam it.







For spicy peppercorn chicken (jiaomaji), first wash a free-range chicken, cut it in half, and put it in a pressure cooker. Add water to cover it, along with red chili, Sichuan peppercorns, salt, bay leaves, cinnamon, and ginger slices. Once cooked, take it out, let it cool in a basin, tear the meat into strips, and top with green onions. Heat oil in a pan. Once hot, turn off the heat and add dried chili skins (lapizi), Sichuan peppercorns, salt, and white pepper. Stir well, pour in some chicken broth, and then pour everything over the chicken in the basin and mix well.













We spent the night at my aunt's house near the cement factory. My uncle is an imam at a small mosque in Shanxi, and we are very grateful (zhigan) for that.

The main dishes were definitely braised beef steak and clear-stewed lamb. The chicken was raised by my uncle himself, and the lamb was from the southern mountains of Urumqi.













We spent the night at my second aunt's house in the New City District. My aunt is the recognized master chef of our family. She makes authentic home-style stir-fries, meatloaf (munzi), stuffed meat slices (jiasha), and tripe.















We spent the night at my aunt's house near the flour mill and had basin meat (penpenrou) with fried dough (youxiang) for breakfast.







We hosted our guests at Lanpin Banquet. It is currently the most popular restaurant in Urumqi for Hui Muslims to hold religious gatherings (niansuoer). They don't sell alcohol, the food is refined, and the owner is warm and attentive. It is usually packed on weekends and holidays, so you must book in advance. On the day we went, they hosted 30 tables for a circumcision ceremony and 15 tables for a special occasion.

We ate stir-fried beef tendon, spicy peppercorn chicken (jiaomaji), cold-dressed beef, hand-grabbed lamb (shoubarou), sauced stuffed meat slices (jiasha), pearl meatballs, and flatfish, along with complimentary side dishes. These are the most popular dishes for Hui Muslim gatherings in Urumqi right now. Their hand-grabbed lamb (shoubarou) is excellent; the meat is tender and fragrant, making it perfect for elderly people to eat.

























I spent the night at Uncle Saisai's house in the Changsheng Brigade in the southern suburbs of Urumqi. The hospitality was generous, with dishes like sweet platter (tianpanzi), fried dough snacks (youguozi), pearl meatballs (zhenzhu wanzi), braised ribbonfish, clear-stewed meat, and braised lamb. I also met many relatives.















Engagement acceptance ceremony (luohuali)

This time, I arrived just in time for my brother-in-law's engagement acceptance ceremony (luohuali). We had a feast at a small community (xiaofang) of the Jahriyya order (Zhepai) in Anningqu, in the northern suburbs of Urumqi, where I ate some homemade fried twisted sugar dough (tangningningzi). The feast started with small appetizer plates, which were then cleared to make room for the main dishes, including clear-stewed meat, braised meatballs, braised fish, and beef head meat.

The traditional wedding customs of Hui Muslims in Xinjiang are very specific. Before a formal marriage proposal, there is a 'preliminary inquiry' where the man's family learns about the woman's family. Then, they send a matchmaker with four types of gifts—tea leaves, sugar cubes, red dates, and walnuts (or pastries)—wrapped in four colors, known as the 'four-color gift' (sese li). The first time a matchmaker brings the four-color gift to propose, it is called the 'opening gift' (kaikouli). The matchmaker gives the red-cloth-wrapped gifts to the woman's family, but they do not give an answer right away. After careful consideration, the woman's family sends a message through the matchmaker. The man's family then sends the four-color gift again, which is called the 'engagement acceptance ceremony' (luohuali), and after that, they enter the engagement stage.















Friday prayer (Jumu'ah)

At noon, I attended the Friday prayer (Jumu'ah) at the Changsheng Grand Mosque. The Changsheng Grand Mosque is located in the Changsheng Brigade at the foot of Yaomo Mountain (Yamalike Mountain) in the southern suburbs of Urumqi. It has the highest number of congregants among the Hui Muslim mosques in the Saybagh District, with over a hundred people attending the Friday prayer (Jumu'ah). The Changsheng Brigade used to be a series of large courtyards where everyone farmed. Now, everyone has moved collectively to the Fumin Anju residential area, and the houses are very spacious.

Imam Fanta of the Changsheng Grand Mosque is my wife's uncle. Uncle Fanta is the one who performed our marriage contract (nikah). Uncle Fanta's surname is Su. The Su family is a large clan in Changsheng. Over three hundred years ago, they left Ankang, Shaanxi, and traveled through Ningxia and Jimsar to Urumqi to do business. Later, their business failed, and they eventually moved to Changsheng to farm, where they have lived ever since.







I bought fresh milk and handmade yogurt at the entrance of the Changsheng residential area. A large bucket of fresh milk only cost 20 yuan. After boiling it and adding two spoonfuls of milk skin (naipizi) I bought earlier on Hetian Street, it tasted amazing. The handmade yogurt comes with its own layer of milk skin (naipizi) and has a very rich milky flavor.











Visiting relatives and friends.

I visited my second aunt's house and had a lunch of Hui Muslim-style lamb dumpling soup (fentang yangrou jiaozi). The soup is the version Hui Muslims in Xinjiang make for Eid, and the dumplings are filled with lamb, onions (piyanzi), and pickled cabbage. They were small and delicate, and everyone loved them.













I attended a family dinner at my older sister's place. My brother-in-law is a great cook and made beef steak stew, spicy numbing chicken (jiaoma ji), pumpkin buns (kawa baozi), and smoked horse sausage. My brother-in-law makes amazing rice pilaf (zhuafan), so I made sure to ask him for his tips during the meal. Don't stir-fry the yellow carrots for the rice pilaf all the way through. Stewing them in water brings out their sweetness, so you don't need to add extra sugar. You must use plenty of oil for the rice pilaf. If you use too much, just tilt the pot and scoop the excess out. The extra oil from the rice pilaf is great for making cabbage and meat mixed noodles (banmian) because it adds so much flavor.













My great-aunt in Wusu invited us out to eat at Lanpin Banquet on Zhujiang Road. It shows how popular this place is among the older generation of Hui Muslims in Urumqi. As soon as we walked in, a young waiter greeted us with a salaam and showed us to our table. We have only been here twice, but the service is always excellent.

This time we had stir-fried black and white lung, yellow noodles with grilled meat (huangmian kaorou), sweet platter (tianpanzi), layered steamed bread (youtazi), spicy numbing chicken, and clear-stewed meat. Everyone loved these traditional dishes.















Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: This Urumqi article records Hui Muslim life during the Spring Festival, including nianye, luohuali, Jumuah prayer, and visiting relatives and friends. It preserves the original religious customs, family scenes, food details, and community observations in natural English.

Night of Prayer (nianye).

During the 2024 Spring Festival holiday, I took Suleiman to visit his grandparents (anai aye) in Urumqi, just in time for the noble month of Sha'ban (the eighth month of the Islamic calendar). The evening of the 15th day of the eighth month is the Night of Bara'at, which means the Night of Atonement. On this night, the two angels on our shoulders replace the scrolls that record our good and bad deeds for the year. They seal the old scrolls and open new ones, which serve as evidence for questioning when we enter the afterlife, so it is also called the Night of Exchanging Scrolls. In the traditions of Hui Muslims in some regions, when the month of Sha'ban arrives, everyone takes turns inviting the imam and friends and family to their homes for a Night of Prayer. The main process includes reciting scriptures, praising the Prophet, performing repentance (tawbah), and asking for forgiveness for family members and the deceased. Afterward, everyone eats a rich meal to strengthen bonds, boost faith, and prepare for the noble month of Ramadan.

February 17 was our family's Night of Prayer, and we also celebrated Suleiman's first birthday (suisuizi). We invited four imams and a large group of relatives to recite surahs, recite the Bara'at praise, perform repentance, and receive dua, followed by a meal. First, we served appetizers (diediezi) and tea. The appetizers included nut tarts and baklava we bought at a Uyghur pastry shop on Hetian Street, as well as traditional flaky pastries and fried flour cakes (saqima) made by my aunt. After everyone chatted for a while, we cleared the appetizers and brought out the main dishes to officially start the feast.

With the help of my aunts, we prepared a rich feast. The main dishes were clear-stewed lamb, braised beef steak, followed by steamed starch jelly (mengzi), pearl meatballs, peppercorn chicken, steamed fish, sweet rice platter (tianpanzi), and various stir-fried dishes. The staples were fried dough (youxiang), steamed buns (momo), and rice.



















The fried dough was deep-fried a day in advance. Before frying, we first performed ablution (wudu), then leavened the dough. After it rose, we scalded a small portion with hot oil and mixed in a little baking soda and fenugreek powder. We kneaded the scalded dough into the leavened dough, covered the basin, and let it rest for 15 minutes. After resting, we rolled it into a long shape, pinched off pieces, rolled them into flat cakes, cut four small slits with a knife, and it was ready to be fried. When putting them into the pot, we recited the Tasmiyah. We fried them for a while, flipped them, and tapped the edges with chopsticks; once they were firm, they were done.











To make sweet rice platter (tianpanzi), first wash the glutinous rice and soak it for three days. Then, add a little brown sugar (shazitang) and steam it, using more water than you would for regular rice. Next, wash red dates, walnut kernels, and raisins, and spread them at the bottom of a bowl. Cover them with the steamed glutinous rice and let it cool. After that, boil rock sugar to make a syrup. Finally, flip the bowl of rice onto a plate and pour the syrup over it.







Meatloaf (munzi) is made with ground beef. When mixing the filling, beat it repeatedly, then shape it into a cylinder. Pinch the top to look like a railing, pour an egg into the center, and steam it.







For spicy peppercorn chicken (jiaomaji), first wash a free-range chicken, cut it in half, and put it in a pressure cooker. Add water to cover it, along with red chili, Sichuan peppercorns, salt, bay leaves, cinnamon, and ginger slices. Once cooked, take it out, let it cool in a basin, tear the meat into strips, and top with green onions. Heat oil in a pan. Once hot, turn off the heat and add dried chili skins (lapizi), Sichuan peppercorns, salt, and white pepper. Stir well, pour in some chicken broth, and then pour everything over the chicken in the basin and mix well.













We spent the night at my aunt's house near the cement factory. My uncle is an imam at a small mosque in Shanxi, and we are very grateful (zhigan) for that.

The main dishes were definitely braised beef steak and clear-stewed lamb. The chicken was raised by my uncle himself, and the lamb was from the southern mountains of Urumqi.













We spent the night at my second aunt's house in the New City District. My aunt is the recognized master chef of our family. She makes authentic home-style stir-fries, meatloaf (munzi), stuffed meat slices (jiasha), and tripe.















We spent the night at my aunt's house near the flour mill and had basin meat (penpenrou) with fried dough (youxiang) for breakfast.







We hosted our guests at Lanpin Banquet. It is currently the most popular restaurant in Urumqi for Hui Muslims to hold religious gatherings (niansuoer). They don't sell alcohol, the food is refined, and the owner is warm and attentive. It is usually packed on weekends and holidays, so you must book in advance. On the day we went, they hosted 30 tables for a circumcision ceremony and 15 tables for a special occasion.

We ate stir-fried beef tendon, spicy peppercorn chicken (jiaomaji), cold-dressed beef, hand-grabbed lamb (shoubarou), sauced stuffed meat slices (jiasha), pearl meatballs, and flatfish, along with complimentary side dishes. These are the most popular dishes for Hui Muslim gatherings in Urumqi right now. Their hand-grabbed lamb (shoubarou) is excellent; the meat is tender and fragrant, making it perfect for elderly people to eat.

























I spent the night at Uncle Saisai's house in the Changsheng Brigade in the southern suburbs of Urumqi. The hospitality was generous, with dishes like sweet platter (tianpanzi), fried dough snacks (youguozi), pearl meatballs (zhenzhu wanzi), braised ribbonfish, clear-stewed meat, and braised lamb. I also met many relatives.















Engagement acceptance ceremony (luohuali)

This time, I arrived just in time for my brother-in-law's engagement acceptance ceremony (luohuali). We had a feast at a small community (xiaofang) of the Jahriyya order (Zhepai) in Anningqu, in the northern suburbs of Urumqi, where I ate some homemade fried twisted sugar dough (tangningningzi). The feast started with small appetizer plates, which were then cleared to make room for the main dishes, including clear-stewed meat, braised meatballs, braised fish, and beef head meat.

The traditional wedding customs of Hui Muslims in Xinjiang are very specific. Before a formal marriage proposal, there is a 'preliminary inquiry' where the man's family learns about the woman's family. Then, they send a matchmaker with four types of gifts—tea leaves, sugar cubes, red dates, and walnuts (or pastries)—wrapped in four colors, known as the 'four-color gift' (sese li). The first time a matchmaker brings the four-color gift to propose, it is called the 'opening gift' (kaikouli). The matchmaker gives the red-cloth-wrapped gifts to the woman's family, but they do not give an answer right away. After careful consideration, the woman's family sends a message through the matchmaker. The man's family then sends the four-color gift again, which is called the 'engagement acceptance ceremony' (luohuali), and after that, they enter the engagement stage.















Friday prayer (Jumu'ah)

At noon, I attended the Friday prayer (Jumu'ah) at the Changsheng Grand Mosque. The Changsheng Grand Mosque is located in the Changsheng Brigade at the foot of Yaomo Mountain (Yamalike Mountain) in the southern suburbs of Urumqi. It has the highest number of congregants among the Hui Muslim mosques in the Saybagh District, with over a hundred people attending the Friday prayer (Jumu'ah). The Changsheng Brigade used to be a series of large courtyards where everyone farmed. Now, everyone has moved collectively to the Fumin Anju residential area, and the houses are very spacious.

Imam Fanta of the Changsheng Grand Mosque is my wife's uncle. Uncle Fanta is the one who performed our marriage contract (nikah). Uncle Fanta's surname is Su. The Su family is a large clan in Changsheng. Over three hundred years ago, they left Ankang, Shaanxi, and traveled through Ningxia and Jimsar to Urumqi to do business. Later, their business failed, and they eventually moved to Changsheng to farm, where they have lived ever since.







I bought fresh milk and handmade yogurt at the entrance of the Changsheng residential area. A large bucket of fresh milk only cost 20 yuan. After boiling it and adding two spoonfuls of milk skin (naipizi) I bought earlier on Hetian Street, it tasted amazing. The handmade yogurt comes with its own layer of milk skin (naipizi) and has a very rich milky flavor.











Visiting relatives and friends.

I visited my second aunt's house and had a lunch of Hui Muslim-style lamb dumpling soup (fentang yangrou jiaozi). The soup is the version Hui Muslims in Xinjiang make for Eid, and the dumplings are filled with lamb, onions (piyanzi), and pickled cabbage. They were small and delicate, and everyone loved them.













I attended a family dinner at my older sister's place. My brother-in-law is a great cook and made beef steak stew, spicy numbing chicken (jiaoma ji), pumpkin buns (kawa baozi), and smoked horse sausage. My brother-in-law makes amazing rice pilaf (zhuafan), so I made sure to ask him for his tips during the meal. Don't stir-fry the yellow carrots for the rice pilaf all the way through. Stewing them in water brings out their sweetness, so you don't need to add extra sugar. You must use plenty of oil for the rice pilaf. If you use too much, just tilt the pot and scoop the excess out. The extra oil from the rice pilaf is great for making cabbage and meat mixed noodles (banmian) because it adds so much flavor.













My great-aunt in Wusu invited us out to eat at Lanpin Banquet on Zhujiang Road. It shows how popular this place is among the older generation of Hui Muslims in Urumqi. As soon as we walked in, a young waiter greeted us with a salaam and showed us to our table. We have only been here twice, but the service is always excellent.

This time we had stir-fried black and white lung, yellow noodles with grilled meat (huangmian kaorou), sweet platter (tianpanzi), layered steamed bread (youtazi), spicy numbing chicken, and clear-stewed meat. Everyone loved these traditional dishes.















Collapse Read »

China Mosque Travel Guide Jiangsu Huai'an: Hui Muslim Streets, Mosques and Local History

Reposted from the web

Summary: This Jiangsu travel account revisits Huai an in 2017 through mosques, Hui Muslim community history, streets, and local food. It preserves the original notes on removed source material, place names, architectural details, and historical references.

Because the article was taken down, I have revised and reposted it.

On March 11, 2017, I went to Huai'an, Jiangsu, to explore the food and sights. I visited three places: Qingjiangpu, Hexia, and Wangjiaying. I will introduce them to you one by one.

Qingjiangpu

In 1415 (the 13th year of the Yongle reign of the Ming Dynasty), Chen Xuan, the Earl of Pingjiang, dredged Qingjiangpu. He built the Changying Granary, which stretched for several miles, and the massive Qingjiang Shipyard. He conscripted over 6,000 craftsmen, and grain transport ships from every province were repaired and built here. As a hub for grain transport, the town of Qingjiangpu gradually took shape and became increasingly prosperous.

Because navigating the Yellow River section of the canal was very dangerous and waiting times to pass through locks in Shandong were too long, many merchants and travelers chose to leave their boats at Qingjiangpu. They would cross the Yellow River at Wangjiaying and switch to horse-drawn carriages to continue north. Qingjiangpu became a transportation hub known for "southern boats and northern horses."

In 1677 (the 16th year of the Kangxi reign), the Director-General of Grain Transport moved to Qingjiangpu, making it the center of the grain transport system. In his collection of notes and stories, "Seven Inks of the Golden Pot" (Jinhu Qimo), the Qing Dynasty writer Huang Junzai recorded: "Along the Qingjiang River for over ten miles, the markets were prosperous and filled with goods. People from all directions gathered here, with shoulders rubbing and carriage wheels touching; it was truly magnificent."

However, due to the dual impact of the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom capturing Nanjing in 1853 (the third year of the Xianfeng reign) and the Yellow River bursting its banks and changing course at Tongwaxiang in 1855 (the fifth year of the Xianfeng reign), the canal began to fall into disrepair and silt up. In 1860, the Nian Army captured Qingjiangpu, and its twenty-mile-long bustling market streets were burned down. In 1873, the Qing government ordered the China Merchants' Steam Navigation Company to transport grain from Shanghai to Tianjin by steamship, causing Qingjiangpu to decline rapidly. After the Jinpu Railway opened in 1912, Qingjiangpu declined even further. When the new Grand Canal was completed in 1959, Qingjiangpu finally ended its history as a transportation hub.







Qingjiang Mosque

The most important wharf in Qingjiangpu is next to Yuezha. It is called the Imperial Wharf (Yu Matou) because both the Kangxi and Qianlong emperors landed there during their southern inspection tours. This was once the most prosperous and lively place in Qingjiangpu.

Starting from the Ming Dynasty, Hui Muslims did business on Yuehe Street in front of the Imperial Wharf. This gradually formed the Yuehe Street Hui Muslim community in Qingjiangpu, and the center of this community is the Qingjiang Mosque.





Qingjiang Mosque was originally called Yuanpu Mosque. It was first built during the Jiajing period of the Ming Dynasty and underwent large-scale renovations and expansions in 1799 (the 57th year of the Qianlong reign). In 1860 (the 10th year of the Xianfeng reign), the Nian Army captured Qingjiangpu and destroyed the mosque. The imam, Ma Huanwen, unfortunately passed away from illness while raising funds for its reconstruction. Fortunately, an elder from Nanjing named Jiang Hengqing took over. He organized everyone to raise funds, and they finally rebuilt the main prayer hall in 1870 (the 9th year of the Tongzhi reign).





















The 1870 (9th year of the Tongzhi reign) stele inscription titled 'Record of Rebuilding the Mosque Main Hall' inside the mosque tells the history of Qingjiang Mosque.





In 1910 (the 2nd year of the Xuantong reign), Qingjiang Mosque established Muying Primary School next to the mosque to teach both Chinese and Arabic. The famous historian Professor Pang Pu once studied there. Today, the school building is destroyed, and no traces remain.

To the west of the mosque once stood the former residence of Zuo Baogui, known as the Zuo Mansion. General Zuo Baogui led his troops to defend the Xuanwu Gate in Pyongyang during the First Sino-Japanese War in 1894 (the 20th year of the Guangxu reign), dealing heavy blows to the Japanese army. On September 15, General Zuo Baogui personally lit a cannon to fire. His right arm was blown off, but he bandaged the wound and kept fighting. He was eventually hit in the chest by a shell and died a heroic death at the age of 57. That same year, the Yangzhou government followed an imperial decree to build a cenotaph for Zuo Baogui next to the Puhading Tomb in Yangzhou, which is still preserved today.

Qingjiang Mosque stopped its activities and was occupied in 1966. It was renovated in 1979 and has been open ever since.





Halal food in Qingjiangpu.

There are over ten halal restaurants in Qingjiangpu. Just on the Yuehe Snack Street in front of the mosque, there are eight, and each one has its own specialty.











Liu Si Noodle Shop serves chicken noodle soup with fish balls, beef balls, and squid. The fish balls are super delicious, and the soup is excellent. It feels great to finish a bowl. However, the owner said this area will be demolished in a year or two, so they will likely have to move.











Salted goose (yanshui e) from Sha's Beef Shop.









Wonton noodles (huntun mian) from Ding Si Wonton Noodle Shop.









Little sparrows (fried mini wontons).









Seman Cafe is run by local Hui Muslims. They serve tea in the afternoon and grilled skewers at night. I ordered Arabic coffee, dates, and date milk. The atmosphere is quite nice.

















Saudi perfume.







I read for a while in the cafe. There are many books on the shelves.









Finally, I bought some Dubai wheat soda.



Hexia Ancient Town.

Travel south along the Grand Canal from Qingjiangpu, and you will reach Hexia Ancient Town, not far northwest of the Huai'an Prefecture city. Hexia is the largest town in the suburbs of Huai'an. Its historical official name was Manpu. After Emperor Shizong of the Later Zhou Dynasty attacked the Southern Tang, he set up the Manpu Customs here and built dams and locks. During the Song and Yuan dynasties, Hexia developed into an important canal town.







Because the salt fields along the coast of Huaibei produced high-quality salt, many salt merchants from the northwest and Anhui came to Huaibei during the late Ming Dynasty. The Huaibei Salt Transport Office was located in Hexia. Salt from the fields had to be shipped to Hexia for inspection before merchants sold it elsewhere. Hexia then entered its most prosperous period. Salt merchants built gardens and courtyards there. The Qing Dynasty record "Hexia Annals of Huai'an" states: "Wealthy salt merchants brought their capital and made their homes in Hexia, making the town extremely prosperous." The wealth brought by these merchants made the town's business thrive, and many Hui Muslims also came to settle in Hexia.

In 1831 (the 11th year of the Daoguang reign), Liangjiang Governor Tao Peng implemented the ticket salt law in Huaibei, requiring permits to transport salt. Many salt merchants went bankrupt quickly. This event is known as the "Salt Reform," and Hexia Ancient Town began to decline from then on.



Hexia Mosque was first built in the Ming Dynasty. In 1860 (the 10th year of the Xianfeng reign), when the Nian Army captured Huai'an, 10 rooms of the mosque were burned down, but it was later rebuilt. After 1966, Hexia Mosque stopped its activities and four rooms were damaged. It resumed activities in 1986 and recently underwent major renovations to reach its current state.













When we visited, the Hexia Mosque was empty. Imam Sha was running a beef and lamb shop on the other side of town and only goes to the mosque when needed.





In the early years of the Republic of China, a Hui Muslim named Zhang Bu'ao opened the Kaifuxingzhai Halal Restaurant in Hexia Town. It was a famous halal restaurant at the time with 11 rooms, two of which faced the street. The building still stands today and is listed as a cultural relic protection unit in Huai'an City.





Halal snacks in Hexia Town.

The second issue of Jiangsu Muslims in 2016 featured an article titled Famous Halal Products, Restaurants, and Snacks in Huai'an, provided by the Huai'an Islamic Association. The article mentions that in the late Qing Dynasty, a Hui Muslim named Li in Hexia Town applied noodle-pulling techniques to making fried dough twists (sanzi), creating a unique version of the snack. The Li family's fried dough twists (sanzi) are made with sesame oil and no alkaline additives, allowing them to be shaped into fans, combs, pagodas, and other patterns.

Halal tea-flavored fried dough twists (sanzi) in Hexia Town today.













There is also a type of sweet cake.



Hexia Town once had a teahouse opened by a Hui Muslim named Chen Yongyuan during the Xianfeng era. The lintel above the door was inscribed with the word Halal in red, Chen Yongyuan in the middle, and Teahouse at the bottom. This piece is now in the collection of the Chuzhou Museum. Every morning, someone was sent to fetch water from the Grand Canal. After returning, they used alum to clarify the water, then boiled it to brew famous teas like Longjing and Biluochun. People came to the teahouse every morning to drink tea and chat in a constant stream.

Today, there is still a halal snack shop on Zhugan Lane in Hexia Town, where we had some very delicious shredded chicken noodles.











Wangjiaying.

Wangjiaying, now called Wangying, is located between the old Yellow River course and the Yan River. During the Ming Dynasty, the Dahe Guard was established in Huai'an Prefecture, and ten military camps were built along the Yellow River. Wangjiaying was one of them.

Because travel on the Yellow River section of the canal was slow and passing through the locks was dangerous, often leading to broken cables and sunken boats, many merchants chose to leave their boats at Qingjiangpu. They would cross the Yellow River at Wangjiaying and switch to horse-drawn carriages to continue north. Wangjiaying and Qingjiangpu gradually grew into busy towns together.



The old Yellow River course before 1855.

Wangjiaying experienced many Yellow River floods, and the town moved east three times before reaching its current location. Wangjiaying became more prosperous in the early Qing Dynasty. The Wangjiaying Gazetteer records that it was a place where southern boats and northern horses met and crowds gathered. In 1831, the Viceroy of Liangjiang, Tao Peng, implemented a salt ticket system in Huaibei. Known as the salt reform, this meant sea salt from Huaibei salt fields no longer needed to be inspected and taxed in Hexia Town. Tao Peng chose Xiba in Wangjiaying as the new distribution center for Huai salt. Because of this, Wangjiaying became the center for eighteen salt warehouses and seventy-two salt bureaus. Salt boats traveled constantly along the three-hundred-mile waterway between the Huaibei salt fields and Wangjiaying.

The rise of Wangjiaying during the Qing Dynasty led to Hui Muslims settling there. The first Hui Muslims to arrive in Wangjiaying were the Ma and Sha families, who came from Lingzhou in Gansu by way of Shandong and Zhenjiang. Later, families named Jin, Dai, Chang, Ge, Fan, Li, and Yang also settled here.



The history of the Wangjiaying Mosque is documented in the book A Century-Old Mosque in the Ancient City of Huaiyin by Imam Fan Weiming and in The Past and Present of Wangying Mosque by Mao Lifa, the former director of the Huaiyin District CPPCC Cultural and Historical Committee. I have organized that information here.

The Wangjiaying Mosque was first built during the Yongzheng reign as three thatched rooms next to the lotus pond at Wangjiapo. At the end of the Daoguang reign, it moved to the south bank of the Salt River, with Imams Chang Tingzhang and Dai Mingxuan in charge of religious affairs. Imam Chang Tingzhang, known as Third Master Chang, was originally from Jining, Shandong. He was born in 1785 in Taoyuan County, Huai'an Prefecture, Jiangsu (now Siyang). In his youth, he studied in Lingzhou, Gansu (now Lingwu, Ningxia), and after completing his studies, he visited various places in Jining, Shandong, to continue his religious education. In 1810, at the age of 26, Imam Chang Tingzhang was invited to lead the Wangjiaying Mosque. Imam Chang Tingzhang had deep knowledge of Arabic classics, astronomy, and medical theory. According to the Wangjiaying Gazetteer, a man named Third Master Tao from Hangzhou died in Huai'an during the Daoguang reign. Because it was the heat of summer, Imam Chang Tingzhang personally bought a boat to transport the body south along the Grand Canal to Hangzhou to fulfill his duty to the family.

In 1860, the Nian Army entered Wangjiaying and burned the mosque. In 1867, Imam Dai Jingzhai, the son of Imam Dai Mingxuan, built a few thatched huts, and later, with donations from the community, a main prayer hall with three thatched rooms was constructed.

Imam Chang Tingzhang passed away in 1870, and Imam Dai Jingzhai took over religious affairs. In 1884, the thatched rooms were rebuilt with tile roofs. Because Imam Chang Tingzhang had studied at the Jahriyya order's Daotang in Lingzhou, Ningxia, in his youth, the Wangjiaying Mosque later invited five successive Jahriyya imams from Ningxia to lead religious affairs and teach. Subsequent imams also went to Ningxia for further study. This made the Wangjiaying Mosque one of the nine branch centers of the Banqiao Daotang in Ningxia, maintaining a very close relationship with the Banqiao Daotang in Wuzhong, Ningxia.

In 1912, the mosque built a new main gate, a south lecture hall, a kitchen, and a washroom. In 1920, with funding from the Jinshantang in Gansu and money from selling dozens of willow trees from the public cemetery, they rebuilt the three-room tiled eave structure in front of the main prayer hall and added a new three-room east lecture hall.

In 1958, the Wangjiaying Mosque moved to the east side of West Ma Road in Wangying, and in 1961, it moved to its current location because a bank needed the land to build. In 1966, during the campaign to destroy the Four Olds, the main hall's plaques reading "The Way Spreads to the Central Land," "The Faith Follows the Western Regions," and "Stop at the Ultimate Good," along with the gold-lettered Arabic plaques and the couplets reading "See the invisible, hear the soundless, rectify the mind and be sincere, become a sage or a worthy, original nature;" were all smashed or burned. The couplet continued, "The Way stands, movement brings harmony, reach others through oneself, help things and help the world, all is complete," and these were also destroyed, along with funeral equipment, while the main hall was taken over by a shoe and hat factory to use as a warehouse.

In 1979, under the leadership of Imam Ge Weili, the Wangjiaying Mosque was rebuilt in a traditional style, finishing in 1985, and after two more renovations and expansions in 2003 and 2006, it reached its current appearance.











Imam Ge Weili was born in 1924, went to Ningxia to study in 1937, became the imam of Wangjiaying Mosque after completing his training in 1945, served as the imam in 1966, and later became the vice president of the Jiangsu Islamic Association and president of the Huai'an Islamic Association. The religious affairs of the Wangjiaying Mosque are now handled by Imam Fan Weiming, a student of Imam Ge Weili.





Halal food in Wangjiaying.

The second issue of "Jiangsu Muslims" in 2016 featured an article titled "Famous Halal Products, Shops, and Foods in Huai'an," provided by the Huai'an Islamic Association, which wrote about the halal food in Wangjiaying.

In 1831 (the 11th year of the Daoguang reign), after the salt administration expanded at Xiba in Wangjiaying, Imam Dai Mingxuan of the Wangjiaying Mosque opened a halal restaurant at the north end of Yushan Street, hiring the best local chefs and making it a high-end spot where many Huai'an officials and nobles held banquets.

In 1860 (the 10th year of the Xianfeng reign), after the Nian Army broke through Wangjiaying, the halal restaurant and the mosque were both destroyed in the war. In 1886 (the 12th year of the Guangxu reign), with everyone's help, Imam Dai Jingzhai, the son of Imam Dai Mingxuan, reopened the halal restaurant at the North Weimen gate in Wangjiaying. The halal restaurant was forced to close after 1937, reopened after 1945, but struggled due to the following wars. After the public-private partnership in 1958, the halal restaurant merged into the Huaiyin Food and Beverage Company No. 2, with Ma Hengpu serving as manager. At the end of 1959, it moved to Beijing Road, featuring three storefront rooms in the front and four kitchen rooms in the back, with Wang Jinbiao taking over as manager. After the 1970s, Li Haiquan took over as manager and renamed it the Hui Muslims Restaurant (Huimin Fandian). In the 1980s, Ma Hengbao led the construction of a new two-story building, and Dai Peng took over as manager. In March 2003, the Hui Muslims Restaurant was restructured, the original staff were all bought out, and it became a private enterprise.

The beef jerky (niupu) made by Ma Wu in Wangjiaying is also very famous. Ma Wu's real name was Ma Guowu. During the Taiping Rebellion, his grandfather Ma Xingyuan moved from Shaanxi to Mule Horse Street (Luoma Jie) in Wangjiaying and supported his family with his ancestral beef jerky craft. By Ma Wu's generation, the business grew larger, and the storefront was rebuilt from three single-story rooms into a multi-story building. Ma Wu chose only the best lean yellow beef. After cutting it into pieces, he sprinkled it with salt and saltpeter brine, rubbed it thoroughly, and put it in a vat to cure. It took one week in winter, and a few days less in other seasons before it was ready to be taken out. After taking it out of the vat, he drained the brine and put the meat into a pot. He added old brine, rock sugar, fennel, soy sauce, almonds, galangal, and over ten other ingredients. He brought it to a boil and then simmered it over low heat for 7 hours until it was done.

In 1954, during the public-private partnership, Ma Wu became a worker at the Wangying Town Bean Products Factory. After the reform and opening up, he returned to his old trade until he passed away (guizhen) in February 1999 during Eid al-Adha (Jierbang Jie). None of his children inherited the family business, and the Wangjiaying Ma family beef jerky was lost from then on.

After this, another Hui Muslim from Wangjiaying, Fan Weishun, put up the sign for Fan's Beef Jerky (Fanji Niupu). Fan Weishun learned to make beef jerky from his father, Fan Degao, since he was a child. He innovated the traditional curing technique and figured out methods for making tender and firm beef, as well as techniques for using high, medium, low, simmering, and intense heat. This made Fan's Beef Jerky comparable to the Ma Wu beef jerky of the past.

Li's Fried Dough Sticks (Li Ji Youdatou) are an ancestral craft of the Li family, who are Hui Muslims in Wangjiaying. They put the prepared dough in a basin and use two bamboo sticks to pick it up and scrape it into a pot that is high on one side and low on the other. The finished fried dough sticks are less than 3 inches long and 3 centimeters thick. They are golden in color, crispy on the outside, tender on the inside, and have a soft texture. The dough for these fried dough sticks is softer than that used for regular fried dough sticks (youtiao), and it contains less alkali, alum, and salt.

In 1956, during the joint operation of individual enterprises and workshops, the Li's Fried Dough Sticks shop was merged into the Wangying Central Store, Dahua Restaurant. After the enterprise reform in 1984, the elder Mr. Li retired. No descendants inherited the craft, and Li's Fried Dough Sticks were lost from then on.

In the past, the halal pastries from the Huaiyin Hui Muslim Food Factory were very famous. They made over ten types of treats, including golden twisted dough sticks (jinsi mahua), pineapple cakes (boluo bing), and heart-shaped cakes (fanxin bing) that children loved. For the elderly, they had laughing cookies (kaikouxiao), red bean paste mooncakes (dousha yuebing), and black sesame and salt-and-pepper mooncakes (heizhima jiaoyan yuebing). Farmers also enjoyed their harvest mooncakes (fengshou yuebing) and rock sugar pastries (bingtang su).







A witness to the Grand Canal

Inside the courtyard of the Huaiyin District Library in Wangjiaying, there is a tomb for Zheng Wenying, a high-ranking official from the Ryukyu Kingdom. Zheng Wenying was a high-level translator for the Ryukyu Kingdom. His ancestors were among the thirty-six families of Fujian boatmen gifted to Ryukyu by Emperor Zhu Yuanzhang. After these Fujian boatmen arrived in Ryukyu, they handled navigation, shipbuilding, writing and translating diplomatic documents, and trade with China. Zheng Wenying was the fifteenth generation of this family.

During the Ming and Qing dynasties, tribute envoys from Ryukyu traveled along the Grand Canal to reach Beijing. In 1761, the twenty-sixth year of the Qianlong reign, the Qingkou Post Station was established in Wangjiaying. It served as an important stop for Ryukyuan tribute envoys to rest and resupply. In 1793, the fifty-eighth year of the Qianlong reign, Zheng Wenying traveled with a tribute mission from the Ryukyu Kingdom. He fell ill and passed away while passing through the Qingkou Post Station in Wangjiaying, where he was buried.



The site of the Governor-General of Grain Transport Office in the center of Huai'an Prefecture. This location officially became the Governor-General of Grain Transport Office in 1579, the seventh year of the Wanli reign of the Ming dynasty. In October 1945, the New Fourth Army captured Huai'an city and dismantled the main hall to transport the wood away. In August 2002, the site was excavated during urban renewal, leading to the construction of the Governor-General of Grain Transport Office Site Park.

Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: This Jiangsu travel account revisits Huai an in 2017 through mosques, Hui Muslim community history, streets, and local food. It preserves the original notes on removed source material, place names, architectural details, and historical references.

Because the article was taken down, I have revised and reposted it.

On March 11, 2017, I went to Huai'an, Jiangsu, to explore the food and sights. I visited three places: Qingjiangpu, Hexia, and Wangjiaying. I will introduce them to you one by one.

Qingjiangpu

In 1415 (the 13th year of the Yongle reign of the Ming Dynasty), Chen Xuan, the Earl of Pingjiang, dredged Qingjiangpu. He built the Changying Granary, which stretched for several miles, and the massive Qingjiang Shipyard. He conscripted over 6,000 craftsmen, and grain transport ships from every province were repaired and built here. As a hub for grain transport, the town of Qingjiangpu gradually took shape and became increasingly prosperous.

Because navigating the Yellow River section of the canal was very dangerous and waiting times to pass through locks in Shandong were too long, many merchants and travelers chose to leave their boats at Qingjiangpu. They would cross the Yellow River at Wangjiaying and switch to horse-drawn carriages to continue north. Qingjiangpu became a transportation hub known for "southern boats and northern horses."

In 1677 (the 16th year of the Kangxi reign), the Director-General of Grain Transport moved to Qingjiangpu, making it the center of the grain transport system. In his collection of notes and stories, "Seven Inks of the Golden Pot" (Jinhu Qimo), the Qing Dynasty writer Huang Junzai recorded: "Along the Qingjiang River for over ten miles, the markets were prosperous and filled with goods. People from all directions gathered here, with shoulders rubbing and carriage wheels touching; it was truly magnificent."

However, due to the dual impact of the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom capturing Nanjing in 1853 (the third year of the Xianfeng reign) and the Yellow River bursting its banks and changing course at Tongwaxiang in 1855 (the fifth year of the Xianfeng reign), the canal began to fall into disrepair and silt up. In 1860, the Nian Army captured Qingjiangpu, and its twenty-mile-long bustling market streets were burned down. In 1873, the Qing government ordered the China Merchants' Steam Navigation Company to transport grain from Shanghai to Tianjin by steamship, causing Qingjiangpu to decline rapidly. After the Jinpu Railway opened in 1912, Qingjiangpu declined even further. When the new Grand Canal was completed in 1959, Qingjiangpu finally ended its history as a transportation hub.







Qingjiang Mosque

The most important wharf in Qingjiangpu is next to Yuezha. It is called the Imperial Wharf (Yu Matou) because both the Kangxi and Qianlong emperors landed there during their southern inspection tours. This was once the most prosperous and lively place in Qingjiangpu.

Starting from the Ming Dynasty, Hui Muslims did business on Yuehe Street in front of the Imperial Wharf. This gradually formed the Yuehe Street Hui Muslim community in Qingjiangpu, and the center of this community is the Qingjiang Mosque.





Qingjiang Mosque was originally called Yuanpu Mosque. It was first built during the Jiajing period of the Ming Dynasty and underwent large-scale renovations and expansions in 1799 (the 57th year of the Qianlong reign). In 1860 (the 10th year of the Xianfeng reign), the Nian Army captured Qingjiangpu and destroyed the mosque. The imam, Ma Huanwen, unfortunately passed away from illness while raising funds for its reconstruction. Fortunately, an elder from Nanjing named Jiang Hengqing took over. He organized everyone to raise funds, and they finally rebuilt the main prayer hall in 1870 (the 9th year of the Tongzhi reign).





















The 1870 (9th year of the Tongzhi reign) stele inscription titled 'Record of Rebuilding the Mosque Main Hall' inside the mosque tells the history of Qingjiang Mosque.





In 1910 (the 2nd year of the Xuantong reign), Qingjiang Mosque established Muying Primary School next to the mosque to teach both Chinese and Arabic. The famous historian Professor Pang Pu once studied there. Today, the school building is destroyed, and no traces remain.

To the west of the mosque once stood the former residence of Zuo Baogui, known as the Zuo Mansion. General Zuo Baogui led his troops to defend the Xuanwu Gate in Pyongyang during the First Sino-Japanese War in 1894 (the 20th year of the Guangxu reign), dealing heavy blows to the Japanese army. On September 15, General Zuo Baogui personally lit a cannon to fire. His right arm was blown off, but he bandaged the wound and kept fighting. He was eventually hit in the chest by a shell and died a heroic death at the age of 57. That same year, the Yangzhou government followed an imperial decree to build a cenotaph for Zuo Baogui next to the Puhading Tomb in Yangzhou, which is still preserved today.

Qingjiang Mosque stopped its activities and was occupied in 1966. It was renovated in 1979 and has been open ever since.





Halal food in Qingjiangpu.

There are over ten halal restaurants in Qingjiangpu. Just on the Yuehe Snack Street in front of the mosque, there are eight, and each one has its own specialty.











Liu Si Noodle Shop serves chicken noodle soup with fish balls, beef balls, and squid. The fish balls are super delicious, and the soup is excellent. It feels great to finish a bowl. However, the owner said this area will be demolished in a year or two, so they will likely have to move.











Salted goose (yanshui e) from Sha's Beef Shop.









Wonton noodles (huntun mian) from Ding Si Wonton Noodle Shop.









Little sparrows (fried mini wontons).









Seman Cafe is run by local Hui Muslims. They serve tea in the afternoon and grilled skewers at night. I ordered Arabic coffee, dates, and date milk. The atmosphere is quite nice.

















Saudi perfume.







I read for a while in the cafe. There are many books on the shelves.









Finally, I bought some Dubai wheat soda.



Hexia Ancient Town.

Travel south along the Grand Canal from Qingjiangpu, and you will reach Hexia Ancient Town, not far northwest of the Huai'an Prefecture city. Hexia is the largest town in the suburbs of Huai'an. Its historical official name was Manpu. After Emperor Shizong of the Later Zhou Dynasty attacked the Southern Tang, he set up the Manpu Customs here and built dams and locks. During the Song and Yuan dynasties, Hexia developed into an important canal town.







Because the salt fields along the coast of Huaibei produced high-quality salt, many salt merchants from the northwest and Anhui came to Huaibei during the late Ming Dynasty. The Huaibei Salt Transport Office was located in Hexia. Salt from the fields had to be shipped to Hexia for inspection before merchants sold it elsewhere. Hexia then entered its most prosperous period. Salt merchants built gardens and courtyards there. The Qing Dynasty record "Hexia Annals of Huai'an" states: "Wealthy salt merchants brought their capital and made their homes in Hexia, making the town extremely prosperous." The wealth brought by these merchants made the town's business thrive, and many Hui Muslims also came to settle in Hexia.

In 1831 (the 11th year of the Daoguang reign), Liangjiang Governor Tao Peng implemented the ticket salt law in Huaibei, requiring permits to transport salt. Many salt merchants went bankrupt quickly. This event is known as the "Salt Reform," and Hexia Ancient Town began to decline from then on.



Hexia Mosque was first built in the Ming Dynasty. In 1860 (the 10th year of the Xianfeng reign), when the Nian Army captured Huai'an, 10 rooms of the mosque were burned down, but it was later rebuilt. After 1966, Hexia Mosque stopped its activities and four rooms were damaged. It resumed activities in 1986 and recently underwent major renovations to reach its current state.













When we visited, the Hexia Mosque was empty. Imam Sha was running a beef and lamb shop on the other side of town and only goes to the mosque when needed.





In the early years of the Republic of China, a Hui Muslim named Zhang Bu'ao opened the Kaifuxingzhai Halal Restaurant in Hexia Town. It was a famous halal restaurant at the time with 11 rooms, two of which faced the street. The building still stands today and is listed as a cultural relic protection unit in Huai'an City.





Halal snacks in Hexia Town.

The second issue of Jiangsu Muslims in 2016 featured an article titled Famous Halal Products, Restaurants, and Snacks in Huai'an, provided by the Huai'an Islamic Association. The article mentions that in the late Qing Dynasty, a Hui Muslim named Li in Hexia Town applied noodle-pulling techniques to making fried dough twists (sanzi), creating a unique version of the snack. The Li family's fried dough twists (sanzi) are made with sesame oil and no alkaline additives, allowing them to be shaped into fans, combs, pagodas, and other patterns.

Halal tea-flavored fried dough twists (sanzi) in Hexia Town today.













There is also a type of sweet cake.



Hexia Town once had a teahouse opened by a Hui Muslim named Chen Yongyuan during the Xianfeng era. The lintel above the door was inscribed with the word Halal in red, Chen Yongyuan in the middle, and Teahouse at the bottom. This piece is now in the collection of the Chuzhou Museum. Every morning, someone was sent to fetch water from the Grand Canal. After returning, they used alum to clarify the water, then boiled it to brew famous teas like Longjing and Biluochun. People came to the teahouse every morning to drink tea and chat in a constant stream.

Today, there is still a halal snack shop on Zhugan Lane in Hexia Town, where we had some very delicious shredded chicken noodles.











Wangjiaying.

Wangjiaying, now called Wangying, is located between the old Yellow River course and the Yan River. During the Ming Dynasty, the Dahe Guard was established in Huai'an Prefecture, and ten military camps were built along the Yellow River. Wangjiaying was one of them.

Because travel on the Yellow River section of the canal was slow and passing through the locks was dangerous, often leading to broken cables and sunken boats, many merchants chose to leave their boats at Qingjiangpu. They would cross the Yellow River at Wangjiaying and switch to horse-drawn carriages to continue north. Wangjiaying and Qingjiangpu gradually grew into busy towns together.



The old Yellow River course before 1855.

Wangjiaying experienced many Yellow River floods, and the town moved east three times before reaching its current location. Wangjiaying became more prosperous in the early Qing Dynasty. The Wangjiaying Gazetteer records that it was a place where southern boats and northern horses met and crowds gathered. In 1831, the Viceroy of Liangjiang, Tao Peng, implemented a salt ticket system in Huaibei. Known as the salt reform, this meant sea salt from Huaibei salt fields no longer needed to be inspected and taxed in Hexia Town. Tao Peng chose Xiba in Wangjiaying as the new distribution center for Huai salt. Because of this, Wangjiaying became the center for eighteen salt warehouses and seventy-two salt bureaus. Salt boats traveled constantly along the three-hundred-mile waterway between the Huaibei salt fields and Wangjiaying.

The rise of Wangjiaying during the Qing Dynasty led to Hui Muslims settling there. The first Hui Muslims to arrive in Wangjiaying were the Ma and Sha families, who came from Lingzhou in Gansu by way of Shandong and Zhenjiang. Later, families named Jin, Dai, Chang, Ge, Fan, Li, and Yang also settled here.



The history of the Wangjiaying Mosque is documented in the book A Century-Old Mosque in the Ancient City of Huaiyin by Imam Fan Weiming and in The Past and Present of Wangying Mosque by Mao Lifa, the former director of the Huaiyin District CPPCC Cultural and Historical Committee. I have organized that information here.

The Wangjiaying Mosque was first built during the Yongzheng reign as three thatched rooms next to the lotus pond at Wangjiapo. At the end of the Daoguang reign, it moved to the south bank of the Salt River, with Imams Chang Tingzhang and Dai Mingxuan in charge of religious affairs. Imam Chang Tingzhang, known as Third Master Chang, was originally from Jining, Shandong. He was born in 1785 in Taoyuan County, Huai'an Prefecture, Jiangsu (now Siyang). In his youth, he studied in Lingzhou, Gansu (now Lingwu, Ningxia), and after completing his studies, he visited various places in Jining, Shandong, to continue his religious education. In 1810, at the age of 26, Imam Chang Tingzhang was invited to lead the Wangjiaying Mosque. Imam Chang Tingzhang had deep knowledge of Arabic classics, astronomy, and medical theory. According to the Wangjiaying Gazetteer, a man named Third Master Tao from Hangzhou died in Huai'an during the Daoguang reign. Because it was the heat of summer, Imam Chang Tingzhang personally bought a boat to transport the body south along the Grand Canal to Hangzhou to fulfill his duty to the family.

In 1860, the Nian Army entered Wangjiaying and burned the mosque. In 1867, Imam Dai Jingzhai, the son of Imam Dai Mingxuan, built a few thatched huts, and later, with donations from the community, a main prayer hall with three thatched rooms was constructed.

Imam Chang Tingzhang passed away in 1870, and Imam Dai Jingzhai took over religious affairs. In 1884, the thatched rooms were rebuilt with tile roofs. Because Imam Chang Tingzhang had studied at the Jahriyya order's Daotang in Lingzhou, Ningxia, in his youth, the Wangjiaying Mosque later invited five successive Jahriyya imams from Ningxia to lead religious affairs and teach. Subsequent imams also went to Ningxia for further study. This made the Wangjiaying Mosque one of the nine branch centers of the Banqiao Daotang in Ningxia, maintaining a very close relationship with the Banqiao Daotang in Wuzhong, Ningxia.

In 1912, the mosque built a new main gate, a south lecture hall, a kitchen, and a washroom. In 1920, with funding from the Jinshantang in Gansu and money from selling dozens of willow trees from the public cemetery, they rebuilt the three-room tiled eave structure in front of the main prayer hall and added a new three-room east lecture hall.

In 1958, the Wangjiaying Mosque moved to the east side of West Ma Road in Wangying, and in 1961, it moved to its current location because a bank needed the land to build. In 1966, during the campaign to destroy the Four Olds, the main hall's plaques reading "The Way Spreads to the Central Land," "The Faith Follows the Western Regions," and "Stop at the Ultimate Good," along with the gold-lettered Arabic plaques and the couplets reading "See the invisible, hear the soundless, rectify the mind and be sincere, become a sage or a worthy, original nature;" were all smashed or burned. The couplet continued, "The Way stands, movement brings harmony, reach others through oneself, help things and help the world, all is complete," and these were also destroyed, along with funeral equipment, while the main hall was taken over by a shoe and hat factory to use as a warehouse.

In 1979, under the leadership of Imam Ge Weili, the Wangjiaying Mosque was rebuilt in a traditional style, finishing in 1985, and after two more renovations and expansions in 2003 and 2006, it reached its current appearance.











Imam Ge Weili was born in 1924, went to Ningxia to study in 1937, became the imam of Wangjiaying Mosque after completing his training in 1945, served as the imam in 1966, and later became the vice president of the Jiangsu Islamic Association and president of the Huai'an Islamic Association. The religious affairs of the Wangjiaying Mosque are now handled by Imam Fan Weiming, a student of Imam Ge Weili.





Halal food in Wangjiaying.

The second issue of "Jiangsu Muslims" in 2016 featured an article titled "Famous Halal Products, Shops, and Foods in Huai'an," provided by the Huai'an Islamic Association, which wrote about the halal food in Wangjiaying.

In 1831 (the 11th year of the Daoguang reign), after the salt administration expanded at Xiba in Wangjiaying, Imam Dai Mingxuan of the Wangjiaying Mosque opened a halal restaurant at the north end of Yushan Street, hiring the best local chefs and making it a high-end spot where many Huai'an officials and nobles held banquets.

In 1860 (the 10th year of the Xianfeng reign), after the Nian Army broke through Wangjiaying, the halal restaurant and the mosque were both destroyed in the war. In 1886 (the 12th year of the Guangxu reign), with everyone's help, Imam Dai Jingzhai, the son of Imam Dai Mingxuan, reopened the halal restaurant at the North Weimen gate in Wangjiaying. The halal restaurant was forced to close after 1937, reopened after 1945, but struggled due to the following wars. After the public-private partnership in 1958, the halal restaurant merged into the Huaiyin Food and Beverage Company No. 2, with Ma Hengpu serving as manager. At the end of 1959, it moved to Beijing Road, featuring three storefront rooms in the front and four kitchen rooms in the back, with Wang Jinbiao taking over as manager. After the 1970s, Li Haiquan took over as manager and renamed it the Hui Muslims Restaurant (Huimin Fandian). In the 1980s, Ma Hengbao led the construction of a new two-story building, and Dai Peng took over as manager. In March 2003, the Hui Muslims Restaurant was restructured, the original staff were all bought out, and it became a private enterprise.

The beef jerky (niupu) made by Ma Wu in Wangjiaying is also very famous. Ma Wu's real name was Ma Guowu. During the Taiping Rebellion, his grandfather Ma Xingyuan moved from Shaanxi to Mule Horse Street (Luoma Jie) in Wangjiaying and supported his family with his ancestral beef jerky craft. By Ma Wu's generation, the business grew larger, and the storefront was rebuilt from three single-story rooms into a multi-story building. Ma Wu chose only the best lean yellow beef. After cutting it into pieces, he sprinkled it with salt and saltpeter brine, rubbed it thoroughly, and put it in a vat to cure. It took one week in winter, and a few days less in other seasons before it was ready to be taken out. After taking it out of the vat, he drained the brine and put the meat into a pot. He added old brine, rock sugar, fennel, soy sauce, almonds, galangal, and over ten other ingredients. He brought it to a boil and then simmered it over low heat for 7 hours until it was done.

In 1954, during the public-private partnership, Ma Wu became a worker at the Wangying Town Bean Products Factory. After the reform and opening up, he returned to his old trade until he passed away (guizhen) in February 1999 during Eid al-Adha (Jierbang Jie). None of his children inherited the family business, and the Wangjiaying Ma family beef jerky was lost from then on.

After this, another Hui Muslim from Wangjiaying, Fan Weishun, put up the sign for Fan's Beef Jerky (Fanji Niupu). Fan Weishun learned to make beef jerky from his father, Fan Degao, since he was a child. He innovated the traditional curing technique and figured out methods for making tender and firm beef, as well as techniques for using high, medium, low, simmering, and intense heat. This made Fan's Beef Jerky comparable to the Ma Wu beef jerky of the past.

Li's Fried Dough Sticks (Li Ji Youdatou) are an ancestral craft of the Li family, who are Hui Muslims in Wangjiaying. They put the prepared dough in a basin and use two bamboo sticks to pick it up and scrape it into a pot that is high on one side and low on the other. The finished fried dough sticks are less than 3 inches long and 3 centimeters thick. They are golden in color, crispy on the outside, tender on the inside, and have a soft texture. The dough for these fried dough sticks is softer than that used for regular fried dough sticks (youtiao), and it contains less alkali, alum, and salt.

In 1956, during the joint operation of individual enterprises and workshops, the Li's Fried Dough Sticks shop was merged into the Wangying Central Store, Dahua Restaurant. After the enterprise reform in 1984, the elder Mr. Li retired. No descendants inherited the craft, and Li's Fried Dough Sticks were lost from then on.

In the past, the halal pastries from the Huaiyin Hui Muslim Food Factory were very famous. They made over ten types of treats, including golden twisted dough sticks (jinsi mahua), pineapple cakes (boluo bing), and heart-shaped cakes (fanxin bing) that children loved. For the elderly, they had laughing cookies (kaikouxiao), red bean paste mooncakes (dousha yuebing), and black sesame and salt-and-pepper mooncakes (heizhima jiaoyan yuebing). Farmers also enjoyed their harvest mooncakes (fengshou yuebing) and rock sugar pastries (bingtang su).







A witness to the Grand Canal

Inside the courtyard of the Huaiyin District Library in Wangjiaying, there is a tomb for Zheng Wenying, a high-ranking official from the Ryukyu Kingdom. Zheng Wenying was a high-level translator for the Ryukyu Kingdom. His ancestors were among the thirty-six families of Fujian boatmen gifted to Ryukyu by Emperor Zhu Yuanzhang. After these Fujian boatmen arrived in Ryukyu, they handled navigation, shipbuilding, writing and translating diplomatic documents, and trade with China. Zheng Wenying was the fifteenth generation of this family.

During the Ming and Qing dynasties, tribute envoys from Ryukyu traveled along the Grand Canal to reach Beijing. In 1761, the twenty-sixth year of the Qianlong reign, the Qingkou Post Station was established in Wangjiaying. It served as an important stop for Ryukyuan tribute envoys to rest and resupply. In 1793, the fifty-eighth year of the Qianlong reign, Zheng Wenying traveled with a tribute mission from the Ryukyu Kingdom. He fell ill and passed away while passing through the Qingkou Post Station in Wangjiaying, where he was buried.



The site of the Governor-General of Grain Transport Office in the center of Huai'an Prefecture. This location officially became the Governor-General of Grain Transport Office in 1579, the seventh year of the Wanli reign of the Ming dynasty. In October 1945, the New Fourth Army captured Huai'an city and dismantled the main hall to transport the wood away. In August 2002, the site was excavated during urban renewal, leading to the construction of the Governor-General of Grain Transport Office Site Park.

Collapse Read »

Muslim History Guide Cairo: Old City Gates, Mosques and Thousand-Year Heritage

Reposted from the web

Summary: This Old Cairo travel account walks inside the northern gate of the historic city and follows its mosques, streets, gates, and layered Islamic history. It keeps the original place names, dates, buildings, and travel route without adding outside claims.

The history of Cairo as a city goes back over a thousand years. Back in the ancient Roman era, the Romans built the Babylon Fortress in the south of Cairo. After the Arabs took Cairo in 641 AD, they built the city of Fustat to the northeast of the Babylon Fortress. Over the next 300 years, Muslim rulers from different dynasties built several cities near Cairo, but none of them survived. In 969 AD, the Shia Fatimid dynasty conquered Egypt and spent four years building what is now the old city of Cairo. By this count, the old city of Cairo is now 1,055 years old.

The walls of old Cairo were started in 969 AD. They were first made of brick, then expanded with stone during the reign of the Fatimid Caliph al-Mustansir Billah (reigned 1036-1094), and finally finished in 1087. The north gates of the old city, the Gate of Conquest (Bab al-Futuh) and the Gate of Victory (Bab al-Nasr), were both built during this time. In this article, I will take you through the north gate into old Cairo to experience its thousand-year history.

Gate of Conquest and Gate of Conquest: 1087

The Gate of Conquest is 22 meters high and has two round towers. The stone carving details may have been influenced by Syrian or Byzantine craftsmen. Above the arch, the surface is covered in diamond patterns containing rosettes and crosses. The parts of the towers that hang outward are carved with ram heads, which are symbols of Mars in the zodiac. Inside the gate, the dome and the rectangular space connect through a pendentive, which is a typical feature of Byzantine architecture.









The Gate of Victory is on the east side of the Gate of Conquest. Unlike the round towers of the Gate of Conquest, the towers of the Gate of Victory are square and contain guard rooms and living areas. There are shield carvings above the gate, which symbolize protecting the city from invasion. The shield features an Arabic inscription from its 1087 reconstruction, along with a Shia version of the Shahada that mentions Ali as the friend (wali) of Allah.











Al-Hakim Mosque: 1013.

Right next to the northern wall of Old Cairo stands the Al-Hakim Mosque, named after the sixth Fatimid caliph and the 16th imam of the Ismaili branch of Shia Islam, al-Hakim bi-Amr Allah (reigned 996-1021). The mosque was started in 990 by the fifth Fatimid caliph, al-Aziz Billah (reigned 975-996), and finished in 1013 by Caliph al-Hakim, making it 1,010 years old today.

The Al-Hakim Mosque was originally outside the walls of Cairo, but it was brought inside the city after the walls were rebuilt in 1087. The mosque's architectural style is similar to the Al-Azhar Mosque, but it is twice as large. The most striking features inside are the two minarets built on square brick bases. When the minarets were first built in 1003, they were separate structures, and they were only encased in brick in 1010. Some scholars suggest this might be linked to the ruler of Mecca rejecting Fatimid authority in 1010, which weakened the dynasty's power. The outer wall of the southern brick base has marble Kufic Arabic inscriptions from the Fatimid period, while the Kufic inscriptions on the northern base were moved to the outside of the city wall when it was incorporated into the northern wall of Old Cairo in 1087.

During the Crusades, the mosque was used as a prison by the Franks and later as a stable by Saladin. It was renovated during the Mamluk period in the 14th century but later fell into ruins for a long time. The mosque was renovated in 1808, and a small, colorful marble mihrab added during that time still survives today.

In the 20th century, the mosque served as a school until 1980, when the Dawoodi Bohra branch of Shia Islam carried out a massive reconstruction and renovation using white marble. Inside the main hall after the reconstruction, only the original stucco carvings, wooden beams, and scriptures were preserved. This restoration caused a lack of authenticity that sparked criticism and widespread discussion among scholars. In 2017, the Dawoodi Bohra community and the Egyptian Ministry of Tourism and Antiquities launched a new round of restoration, and it did not reopen until February 2023.



















Caravanserai of Qaitbay: 1481

Enter the old city of Cairo through the Gate of Victory (Bab al-Futuh) onto El-Gamaleya Street. The first thing you see is the caravanserai (wikala) of Sultan Qaitbay, which is currently under renovation. It was built in 1481 by Sultan Qaitbay (reigned 1468-1496) of the Mamluk dynasty. Qaitbay was one of the Mamluk sultans who sponsored the most architecture. Although the Mamluk dynasty was in decline, the situation remained relatively stable under his rule, and trade flourished.

Like other Mamluk caravanserais (wikala), this place not only provided short-term housing for passing caravans but also offered long-term rental apartment units (rab). It was used as apartments for hundreds of years until the Egyptian Ministry of Antiquities began renovations in 2015. Work is still ongoing, and you can still see the wooden lattice windows (mashrabiya) facing the street.





Gate of the Caravanserai of Qawsun: 1341

Continuing south, you can see the remains of the gate of the caravanserai (wikala) of Emir Qawsun. This inn was built in 1341 by the famous Mamluk Emir Qawsun (1302-1342). It was used by soap and coffee merchants from Palestine in the 17th and 18th centuries, so it is also called the Soap Inn. The inn was demolished in 1960 to be rebuilt as a school, and only the gate remains. Above the gate is a stone carving of a pair of cups, because Emir Qawsun once served as the Sultan's cupbearer (saqi).

Qawsun was born on the Kipchak steppe under the rule of the Golden Horde and started out as a merchant. In 1320, Princess Tulunbay of the Golden Horde married the Mamluk Sultan of Egypt. Qawsun came to Cairo as part of her entourage and stayed in Cairo to sell leather goods. Qawsun was highly valued by the Sultan in Cairo and became his personal attendant. He then rose quickly through the ranks and married the Sultan's daughter. After the old Sultan died in 1341, Qawsun became the regent and held actual power over the Mamluk dynasty. However, he was defeated by political rivals a few months later and was killed in prison.





Continuing south along El-Gamaleya Street, you can see several more historical buildings.









Khanqah of Baybars II: 1310

On the east side of the middle section of El-Gamaleya Street stands the Khanqah of Baybars II, built in 1310. Baybars II was the 12th Sultan of the Mamluk dynasty and reigned for only one year, from 1309 to 1310. Baybars II served as vice-sultan from 1299 to 1309 and led the Mamluk Sultanate against the Ilkhanate in the Battle of Marj al-Saffar in Syria in 1303. This battle resulted in the total defeat of the Mongol army that had marched west into Syria. People say the Sultan led his captives from the Gate of Victory along El-Gamaleya Street into the old city of Cairo. Singers and dancers from all over came to celebrate, and the city was decorated with lights for days of festivities.



















The exquisite Islamic geometric patterns (Girih) on the gate of the Khanqah of Baybars II form complex designs through overlapping and interlacing.



It is very interesting that the threshold of the gate is made of stone blocks carved with ancient Egyptian hieroglyphs, which is the first time I have ever seen this.



Bayt al-Suhaymi: 1648

Walking west from the Khanqah of Baybars II, you can see the Bayt al-Suhaymi on Darb al-Asfar Street. Built in 1648, it is the best-preserved private residence from the Ottoman period in old Cairo and is now open as a tourist site.

This residence is built around a courtyard (Sahn) with a small garden planted with palm trees in the center. You can see beautiful wooden lattice windows (Mashrabiya) in the courtyard. The south side of the mansion is the original 1648 structure, while the north side was expanded in 1797. It is now named after its last owner, Sheikh Muhammad Amin al-Suhaymi, who was a sheikh at Al-Azhar Mosque. In 1930, King Fuad I of Egypt provided funds to purchase the mansion and placed it under the management of the Committee for the Preservation of Arab Art Monuments.



















The ornate ceiling decorations of Bayt al-Suhaymi.



















The wood-carved furniture and colorful marble floors inside Bayt al-Suhaymi.



















Mosque-Sabil of Sulayman Agha al-Silahdar: 1839

Continuing west back to the main road of old Cairo, Al-Mu'izz Street, the first thing you see is the Mosque-Sabil of Sulayman Agha al-Silahdar, built in 1839. This fountain has a fancy Ottoman Baroque facade with floral patterns from the European Renaissance. The fountain is made of marble and was used to keep the water cool during the summer. Next to the fountain is a primary school (kuttab) that was once used to teach children how to read, write, and recite scripture. Here, we can also enter the huge underground water reservoir of the fountain, which is rarely seen in typical fountains.



















Aqmar Mosque: 1125-6

Walking south along Al-Muizz Street, we stop at the famous Fatimid-era Aqmar Mosque. The Aqmar Mosque was built in 1125-6 by order of the Fatimid vizier Al-Ma'mun al-Bata'ihi. It sits at the northeast corner of the former Eastern Fatimid Palace, right next to the palace grounds.

The Aqmar Mosque holds a groundbreaking place in Egyptian architectural history. It is the first mosque where the entrance is flush with the street rather than aligned with the qibla wall, making it the first mosque planned according to Cairo's street layout. It is also the first mosque to feature complex stone carvings. The facade of the Aqmar Mosque is very luxurious. Above the entrance is a large medallion surrounded by a grille, with the names of the Prophet and Ali in the center and verses written around them. This type of decoration is unique in Cairo.

At the top of the left facade, there are carvings of a door and a window. The window on the left symbolizes the ceremonial grille that the Fatimids took back from the palace of their rivals, the Abbasids in Baghdad, serving as a symbol of victory. Inside the window is a lamp and a six-pointed star, based on the Shia hadith: 'The stars are a promise to the world, and it will not be submerged.' Below the window, there is a carving of a plant growing out of a flower pot, which comes from the Prophet's reference to Hasan and Husayn as 'my two aromatic herbs in the world.' The door in the upper right corner comes from the famous Shia hadith: 'I am the city of knowledge, and Ali is its gate.'

Because it was near the Fatimid palace, the Aqmar Mosque did not originally have a minaret. One was not added until the end of the 14th century by the Mamluk dynasty, and the cylindrical top was rebuilt during the Ottoman era.

In 1993, the Dawoodi Bohra branch of the Shia community carried out a large-scale renovation of the Aqmar Mosque. Most of the historical elements inside the main hall were not preserved, which drew criticism.



















Madrasa of Emir Jamal al-Din al-Ustadar: 1407

Turn back into al-Gamaleya Street along the alley south of the Aqmar Mosque to see the Madrasa of Amir Jamal al-Din al-Ustadar, built in 1407 by the Mamluk general Amir Jamal al-Din al-Ustadar. Jamal al-Din built many structures in Cairo, and al-Gamaleya Street is named after him.

This is a classic cruciform madrasa structure with an open courtyard in the center and an iwan (arched hall) on each of the four sides, each used to teach one of the four schools of Islamic jurisprudence. The decoration inside the main hall is very ornate, as People say Jamal al-Din modeled it after Mamluk palace designs and invested a large amount of money and materials. Jamal al-Din was executed just four years after the mosque was completed. The Sultan wanted to demolish the site, but a judge (Qadi) stopped him, and in the end, only Jamal al-Din's name was removed.

After the Ottoman Empire conquered Istanbul in 1517, many marble slabs from the inner walls of the madrasa were taken to Istanbul. The building was damaged again in the 1992 earthquake and was not fully restored until 2002.



















Dhu al-Fiqar Fountain-Primary School (Sabil-Kuttab): 1673

Opposite the Madrasa of Amir Jamal al-Din al-Ustadar is the Ottoman-era Dhu al-Fiqar Sabil-Kuttab, built in 1673 by Dhu al-Fiqar Katkhuda Mustahfizan and his brother Muhammad. This Sabil-Kuttab consists of two prominent wooden awnings, and the caravanserai (wikala) behind it was once a center for the coffee trade in 18th-century Cairo.





Maq’ad Mamay al-Sayfi Palace: 1496

Continue south to the Maq’ad Mamay al-Sayfi Palace on Beet Al Qadi Street, built in 1496 by the Mamluk general Sayf al-Din Mamay ibn Khadad, who served as a Mamluk diplomat to the Ottoman Empire in the early 1490s.

During the Ottoman period, this place served as a high court and the residence of judges, so it is also called Bayt al-Qadi. In the late 19th century, Egypt's ruler Isma'il Pasha (reigned 1863-79) carried out urban renewal in Cairo, and most of the palace was demolished, leaving only a large house used for summer retreats. The house consists of an upper pavilion and a lower storage room. The lotus capitals of the pavilion are the only example in Islamic architecture in Cairo that directly uses architectural forms from the ancient Egyptian pharaonic era. The interior of the pavilion has complex decorations and calligraphy, but unfortunately, it was not open when we visited.







Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda Sabil-Kuttab: 1744

Walk south from the Aqmar Mosque to see the Sabil-Kuttab of Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda, a fountain-school built in 1744 during the Ottoman era. It is a landmark building on Al-Muizz Street, the main road in Old Cairo. During the Mamluk and Ottoman dynasties, these fountain-schools were very common in Cairo. The ground floor fountain (sabil) provided free drinking water to passersby, while the second floor school (kuttab) taught children how to read and write.

Although this fountain-school was built in the Mamluk style, it incorporates many Ottoman architectural elements. The builder, Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda, was a high-ranking Mamluk emir officer known for his noble lifestyle and patronage of the arts. He renovated or built 33 structures in Cairo.















Across from the Khanqah of Baybars II stands the Qitas Bey fountain-school (sabil-kuttab), built in 1630 during the Ottoman period. In the Mamluk and Ottoman eras, most fountain-schools in the old city of Egypt were built on street corners.





Bashtak Palace: 1334-1339.

Southeast of the Sabil-Kuttab of Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda is the Mamluk-era Bashtak Palace (Qasr Bashtak), built between 1334 and 1339 by the Mamluk emir and general Sayf al-Din Bashtak al-Nasiri. Bashtak was a powerful Mamluk emir who married the daughter of a Mamluk sultan and held important positions in the royal court. He chose a section of the former Fatimid eastern palace to build his own palace and stables, which became a model of Mamluk architecture.

Only a portion of the Bashtak Palace remains today, the most important part being the reception hall (qa'a). The hall features a wooden paneled ceiling, stained glass, and an inlaid marble fountain. The upper level has wooden lattice windows (mashrabiyya), all of which are typical architectural styles of the Mamluk period.

















Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: This Old Cairo travel account walks inside the northern gate of the historic city and follows its mosques, streets, gates, and layered Islamic history. It keeps the original place names, dates, buildings, and travel route without adding outside claims.

The history of Cairo as a city goes back over a thousand years. Back in the ancient Roman era, the Romans built the Babylon Fortress in the south of Cairo. After the Arabs took Cairo in 641 AD, they built the city of Fustat to the northeast of the Babylon Fortress. Over the next 300 years, Muslim rulers from different dynasties built several cities near Cairo, but none of them survived. In 969 AD, the Shia Fatimid dynasty conquered Egypt and spent four years building what is now the old city of Cairo. By this count, the old city of Cairo is now 1,055 years old.

The walls of old Cairo were started in 969 AD. They were first made of brick, then expanded with stone during the reign of the Fatimid Caliph al-Mustansir Billah (reigned 1036-1094), and finally finished in 1087. The north gates of the old city, the Gate of Conquest (Bab al-Futuh) and the Gate of Victory (Bab al-Nasr), were both built during this time. In this article, I will take you through the north gate into old Cairo to experience its thousand-year history.

Gate of Conquest and Gate of Conquest: 1087

The Gate of Conquest is 22 meters high and has two round towers. The stone carving details may have been influenced by Syrian or Byzantine craftsmen. Above the arch, the surface is covered in diamond patterns containing rosettes and crosses. The parts of the towers that hang outward are carved with ram heads, which are symbols of Mars in the zodiac. Inside the gate, the dome and the rectangular space connect through a pendentive, which is a typical feature of Byzantine architecture.









The Gate of Victory is on the east side of the Gate of Conquest. Unlike the round towers of the Gate of Conquest, the towers of the Gate of Victory are square and contain guard rooms and living areas. There are shield carvings above the gate, which symbolize protecting the city from invasion. The shield features an Arabic inscription from its 1087 reconstruction, along with a Shia version of the Shahada that mentions Ali as the friend (wali) of Allah.











Al-Hakim Mosque: 1013.

Right next to the northern wall of Old Cairo stands the Al-Hakim Mosque, named after the sixth Fatimid caliph and the 16th imam of the Ismaili branch of Shia Islam, al-Hakim bi-Amr Allah (reigned 996-1021). The mosque was started in 990 by the fifth Fatimid caliph, al-Aziz Billah (reigned 975-996), and finished in 1013 by Caliph al-Hakim, making it 1,010 years old today.

The Al-Hakim Mosque was originally outside the walls of Cairo, but it was brought inside the city after the walls were rebuilt in 1087. The mosque's architectural style is similar to the Al-Azhar Mosque, but it is twice as large. The most striking features inside are the two minarets built on square brick bases. When the minarets were first built in 1003, they were separate structures, and they were only encased in brick in 1010. Some scholars suggest this might be linked to the ruler of Mecca rejecting Fatimid authority in 1010, which weakened the dynasty's power. The outer wall of the southern brick base has marble Kufic Arabic inscriptions from the Fatimid period, while the Kufic inscriptions on the northern base were moved to the outside of the city wall when it was incorporated into the northern wall of Old Cairo in 1087.

During the Crusades, the mosque was used as a prison by the Franks and later as a stable by Saladin. It was renovated during the Mamluk period in the 14th century but later fell into ruins for a long time. The mosque was renovated in 1808, and a small, colorful marble mihrab added during that time still survives today.

In the 20th century, the mosque served as a school until 1980, when the Dawoodi Bohra branch of Shia Islam carried out a massive reconstruction and renovation using white marble. Inside the main hall after the reconstruction, only the original stucco carvings, wooden beams, and scriptures were preserved. This restoration caused a lack of authenticity that sparked criticism and widespread discussion among scholars. In 2017, the Dawoodi Bohra community and the Egyptian Ministry of Tourism and Antiquities launched a new round of restoration, and it did not reopen until February 2023.



















Caravanserai of Qaitbay: 1481

Enter the old city of Cairo through the Gate of Victory (Bab al-Futuh) onto El-Gamaleya Street. The first thing you see is the caravanserai (wikala) of Sultan Qaitbay, which is currently under renovation. It was built in 1481 by Sultan Qaitbay (reigned 1468-1496) of the Mamluk dynasty. Qaitbay was one of the Mamluk sultans who sponsored the most architecture. Although the Mamluk dynasty was in decline, the situation remained relatively stable under his rule, and trade flourished.

Like other Mamluk caravanserais (wikala), this place not only provided short-term housing for passing caravans but also offered long-term rental apartment units (rab). It was used as apartments for hundreds of years until the Egyptian Ministry of Antiquities began renovations in 2015. Work is still ongoing, and you can still see the wooden lattice windows (mashrabiya) facing the street.





Gate of the Caravanserai of Qawsun: 1341

Continuing south, you can see the remains of the gate of the caravanserai (wikala) of Emir Qawsun. This inn was built in 1341 by the famous Mamluk Emir Qawsun (1302-1342). It was used by soap and coffee merchants from Palestine in the 17th and 18th centuries, so it is also called the Soap Inn. The inn was demolished in 1960 to be rebuilt as a school, and only the gate remains. Above the gate is a stone carving of a pair of cups, because Emir Qawsun once served as the Sultan's cupbearer (saqi).

Qawsun was born on the Kipchak steppe under the rule of the Golden Horde and started out as a merchant. In 1320, Princess Tulunbay of the Golden Horde married the Mamluk Sultan of Egypt. Qawsun came to Cairo as part of her entourage and stayed in Cairo to sell leather goods. Qawsun was highly valued by the Sultan in Cairo and became his personal attendant. He then rose quickly through the ranks and married the Sultan's daughter. After the old Sultan died in 1341, Qawsun became the regent and held actual power over the Mamluk dynasty. However, he was defeated by political rivals a few months later and was killed in prison.





Continuing south along El-Gamaleya Street, you can see several more historical buildings.









Khanqah of Baybars II: 1310

On the east side of the middle section of El-Gamaleya Street stands the Khanqah of Baybars II, built in 1310. Baybars II was the 12th Sultan of the Mamluk dynasty and reigned for only one year, from 1309 to 1310. Baybars II served as vice-sultan from 1299 to 1309 and led the Mamluk Sultanate against the Ilkhanate in the Battle of Marj al-Saffar in Syria in 1303. This battle resulted in the total defeat of the Mongol army that had marched west into Syria. People say the Sultan led his captives from the Gate of Victory along El-Gamaleya Street into the old city of Cairo. Singers and dancers from all over came to celebrate, and the city was decorated with lights for days of festivities.



















The exquisite Islamic geometric patterns (Girih) on the gate of the Khanqah of Baybars II form complex designs through overlapping and interlacing.



It is very interesting that the threshold of the gate is made of stone blocks carved with ancient Egyptian hieroglyphs, which is the first time I have ever seen this.



Bayt al-Suhaymi: 1648

Walking west from the Khanqah of Baybars II, you can see the Bayt al-Suhaymi on Darb al-Asfar Street. Built in 1648, it is the best-preserved private residence from the Ottoman period in old Cairo and is now open as a tourist site.

This residence is built around a courtyard (Sahn) with a small garden planted with palm trees in the center. You can see beautiful wooden lattice windows (Mashrabiya) in the courtyard. The south side of the mansion is the original 1648 structure, while the north side was expanded in 1797. It is now named after its last owner, Sheikh Muhammad Amin al-Suhaymi, who was a sheikh at Al-Azhar Mosque. In 1930, King Fuad I of Egypt provided funds to purchase the mansion and placed it under the management of the Committee for the Preservation of Arab Art Monuments.



















The ornate ceiling decorations of Bayt al-Suhaymi.



















The wood-carved furniture and colorful marble floors inside Bayt al-Suhaymi.



















Mosque-Sabil of Sulayman Agha al-Silahdar: 1839

Continuing west back to the main road of old Cairo, Al-Mu'izz Street, the first thing you see is the Mosque-Sabil of Sulayman Agha al-Silahdar, built in 1839. This fountain has a fancy Ottoman Baroque facade with floral patterns from the European Renaissance. The fountain is made of marble and was used to keep the water cool during the summer. Next to the fountain is a primary school (kuttab) that was once used to teach children how to read, write, and recite scripture. Here, we can also enter the huge underground water reservoir of the fountain, which is rarely seen in typical fountains.



















Aqmar Mosque: 1125-6

Walking south along Al-Muizz Street, we stop at the famous Fatimid-era Aqmar Mosque. The Aqmar Mosque was built in 1125-6 by order of the Fatimid vizier Al-Ma'mun al-Bata'ihi. It sits at the northeast corner of the former Eastern Fatimid Palace, right next to the palace grounds.

The Aqmar Mosque holds a groundbreaking place in Egyptian architectural history. It is the first mosque where the entrance is flush with the street rather than aligned with the qibla wall, making it the first mosque planned according to Cairo's street layout. It is also the first mosque to feature complex stone carvings. The facade of the Aqmar Mosque is very luxurious. Above the entrance is a large medallion surrounded by a grille, with the names of the Prophet and Ali in the center and verses written around them. This type of decoration is unique in Cairo.

At the top of the left facade, there are carvings of a door and a window. The window on the left symbolizes the ceremonial grille that the Fatimids took back from the palace of their rivals, the Abbasids in Baghdad, serving as a symbol of victory. Inside the window is a lamp and a six-pointed star, based on the Shia hadith: 'The stars are a promise to the world, and it will not be submerged.' Below the window, there is a carving of a plant growing out of a flower pot, which comes from the Prophet's reference to Hasan and Husayn as 'my two aromatic herbs in the world.' The door in the upper right corner comes from the famous Shia hadith: 'I am the city of knowledge, and Ali is its gate.'

Because it was near the Fatimid palace, the Aqmar Mosque did not originally have a minaret. One was not added until the end of the 14th century by the Mamluk dynasty, and the cylindrical top was rebuilt during the Ottoman era.

In 1993, the Dawoodi Bohra branch of the Shia community carried out a large-scale renovation of the Aqmar Mosque. Most of the historical elements inside the main hall were not preserved, which drew criticism.



















Madrasa of Emir Jamal al-Din al-Ustadar: 1407

Turn back into al-Gamaleya Street along the alley south of the Aqmar Mosque to see the Madrasa of Amir Jamal al-Din al-Ustadar, built in 1407 by the Mamluk general Amir Jamal al-Din al-Ustadar. Jamal al-Din built many structures in Cairo, and al-Gamaleya Street is named after him.

This is a classic cruciform madrasa structure with an open courtyard in the center and an iwan (arched hall) on each of the four sides, each used to teach one of the four schools of Islamic jurisprudence. The decoration inside the main hall is very ornate, as People say Jamal al-Din modeled it after Mamluk palace designs and invested a large amount of money and materials. Jamal al-Din was executed just four years after the mosque was completed. The Sultan wanted to demolish the site, but a judge (Qadi) stopped him, and in the end, only Jamal al-Din's name was removed.

After the Ottoman Empire conquered Istanbul in 1517, many marble slabs from the inner walls of the madrasa were taken to Istanbul. The building was damaged again in the 1992 earthquake and was not fully restored until 2002.



















Dhu al-Fiqar Fountain-Primary School (Sabil-Kuttab): 1673

Opposite the Madrasa of Amir Jamal al-Din al-Ustadar is the Ottoman-era Dhu al-Fiqar Sabil-Kuttab, built in 1673 by Dhu al-Fiqar Katkhuda Mustahfizan and his brother Muhammad. This Sabil-Kuttab consists of two prominent wooden awnings, and the caravanserai (wikala) behind it was once a center for the coffee trade in 18th-century Cairo.





Maq’ad Mamay al-Sayfi Palace: 1496

Continue south to the Maq’ad Mamay al-Sayfi Palace on Beet Al Qadi Street, built in 1496 by the Mamluk general Sayf al-Din Mamay ibn Khadad, who served as a Mamluk diplomat to the Ottoman Empire in the early 1490s.

During the Ottoman period, this place served as a high court and the residence of judges, so it is also called Bayt al-Qadi. In the late 19th century, Egypt's ruler Isma'il Pasha (reigned 1863-79) carried out urban renewal in Cairo, and most of the palace was demolished, leaving only a large house used for summer retreats. The house consists of an upper pavilion and a lower storage room. The lotus capitals of the pavilion are the only example in Islamic architecture in Cairo that directly uses architectural forms from the ancient Egyptian pharaonic era. The interior of the pavilion has complex decorations and calligraphy, but unfortunately, it was not open when we visited.







Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda Sabil-Kuttab: 1744

Walk south from the Aqmar Mosque to see the Sabil-Kuttab of Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda, a fountain-school built in 1744 during the Ottoman era. It is a landmark building on Al-Muizz Street, the main road in Old Cairo. During the Mamluk and Ottoman dynasties, these fountain-schools were very common in Cairo. The ground floor fountain (sabil) provided free drinking water to passersby, while the second floor school (kuttab) taught children how to read and write.

Although this fountain-school was built in the Mamluk style, it incorporates many Ottoman architectural elements. The builder, Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda, was a high-ranking Mamluk emir officer known for his noble lifestyle and patronage of the arts. He renovated or built 33 structures in Cairo.















Across from the Khanqah of Baybars II stands the Qitas Bey fountain-school (sabil-kuttab), built in 1630 during the Ottoman period. In the Mamluk and Ottoman eras, most fountain-schools in the old city of Egypt were built on street corners.





Bashtak Palace: 1334-1339.

Southeast of the Sabil-Kuttab of Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda is the Mamluk-era Bashtak Palace (Qasr Bashtak), built between 1334 and 1339 by the Mamluk emir and general Sayf al-Din Bashtak al-Nasiri. Bashtak was a powerful Mamluk emir who married the daughter of a Mamluk sultan and held important positions in the royal court. He chose a section of the former Fatimid eastern palace to build his own palace and stables, which became a model of Mamluk architecture.

Only a portion of the Bashtak Palace remains today, the most important part being the reception hall (qa'a). The hall features a wooden paneled ceiling, stained glass, and an inlaid marble fountain. The upper level has wooden lattice windows (mashrabiyya), all of which are typical architectural styles of the Mamluk period.

















Collapse Read »

Muslim Travel Guide Singapore: Indian Muslim Mosques and Heritage (Part 1)

Reposted from the web

Summary: This first Singapore article introduces Indian Muslim culture through mosques, streets, migration history, food, and everyday community life. It keeps the original travel sequence and cultural facts while using simple English for global readers.

Since the British arrived in Singapore in 1819, Indian Muslims have continuously come to the island as laborers, merchants, and soldiers. After the 20th century, more Indian Muslims settled in Singapore. Most were Tamils from the Coromandel Coast in southeastern India, but there were also Gujaratis from western India, Malabaris from the southwest, and even Dawoodi Bohras and Ahmadis. Over time, the diverse and integrated Indian Muslim culture has become an important part of Singaporean culture. This time, I will take you to experience Singapore's Indian Muslim culture by visiting various Indian mosques, tasting Indian food, and touring the Indian Heritage Centre and the Indian Muslim Heritage Centre.

Indian mosques and shrines (gongbei) in Chinatown.

Al-Abrar Mosque is located on Telok Ayer Street in Singapore's Chinatown. It was built in 1827 by Tamil Muslims from the Coromandel Coast in southeastern India. They were also known as Chulias and mostly worked as merchants or money changers in Chinatown at the time, so this place is also called the Chulia Mosque.

Al-Abrar Mosque is one of Singapore's oldest mosques. It started as a thatched hut, was rebuilt as a brick building with Indian features between 1850 and 1855, and was renovated into its current appearance between 1986 and 1989. The mosque sits in a row of shophouses on Telok Ayer Street and blends seamlessly with the surrounding buildings. The main entrance has two octagonal minarets topped with star and crescent symbols. The interior features European neoclassical design elements, including Doric columns and French-style shutters. Today, the mosque continues to serve the Indian Muslim community. Muslims from other ethnic groups working nearby also come here for worship, especially during the Friday congregational prayer (Jumu'ah).



















Jamae Mosque is located on South Bridge Road in Singapore's Chinatown. It was the main congregational mosque built by the Chulias in Chinatown, and like Al-Abrar Mosque, it is also known as a Chulia mosque.

Jamae Mosque was founded in 1826 and rebuilt into its current form between 1830 and 1835. The mosque's main gate has a distinct South Indian style. It features two seven-story towers on either side, each with a pair of niches on every level, and a central design modeled after a traditional Indian fortress gate. The design is very intricate. The main prayer hall features the neoclassical style typical of Singapore's colonial era, the same style used for the Old Parliament House built during the same period.

Today, Jamae Mosque remains a place of worship for Chulia Muslims and is one of the few mosques in Singapore that offers religious classes in the Tamil language. This was also my first time seeing the walls of a main prayer hall inscribed in three languages: Arabic, English, and Tamil.



















The Nagore Dargha mosque (Nagore Dargha) is located on Telok Ayer Street, not far from the Al-Abrar Mosque. It was built by the Chulia people between 1828 and 1830 and serves as an important Sufi shrine (gongbei) for the Chulia community in Singapore.

The Nagore Dargha mosque was built to honor the famous 16th-century Indian Sufi saint, Syed Shahul Hamid. Shahul Hamid arrived in the town of Nagore in the Tamil Nadu state of southeastern India in 1533 to preach, and he passed away there in 1570. Legend says he performed many miracles in Nagore and even healed the king of the Vijayanagara Empire in India. To honor Shahul Hamid, locals built a shrine (gongbei) over his tomb. It later became an important Sufi center for Tamil Muslims, and many sailors and seafarers would visit the shrine to offer dua for a safe journey before heading out to sea.

After Tamil Muslims immigrated to Penang and Singapore in the 19th century, they built a shrine in each city to honor the saint, modeling the architecture after the original shrine in Nagore. The Singapore shrine uses an eclectic style, featuring a 14-tier square minaret with niches on the outside, and Doric-style pilasters, arches, and large French-style windows on the inside.

In 2011, the Nagore Dargha mosque became the Indian Muslim Heritage Centre, which provides a detailed introduction to the history and culture of Indian Muslims in Singapore.





















A Quran (Guerani) copied around 1900, which uses a rare linen binding method.



An introduction to the Arwi script. Arwi is a script that uses Arabic letters to write the Tamil language, similar to the Xiao'erjing (xiaojing) used by Hui Muslims. The Arwi script includes 13 additional letters not found in the Arabic alphabet.





Items from an Indian Muslim wedding in Singapore during the 20th century.





Tamil language works by Singaporean Tamil Muslims.



Daily items used by Indian Muslims in Singapore.



Items brought by Muslim families who arrived in Singapore from Kadayanallur and Tenkasi in South India after World War I.



The India of Little India

Mosques, food, and the Indian Heritage Centre

Little India is the busiest and most crowded place I visited in Singapore. It feels bigger and more like India than the Little Indias in Kuala Lumpur and Penang. Along the sides of the covered walkways (qilou) are various Indian restaurants, flower shops, and grocery stores, with many people of Indian descent busy shopping.

Unlike Chinatown or Kampong Glam, Little India was not designated for the Indian community by Sir Stamford Raffles. It was known as Serangoon until the 1980s. In the 1820s, the British built lime pits and brick kilns along Serangoon Road, and Indian laborers began working there. After the brick kilns closed in 1860, Serangoon developed a cattle industry, followed by the establishment of slaughterhouses, tanneries, and milk vendors. These industries attracted more Indians to settle here, along with others who worked nearby as port laborers and junior office clerks.

The British colonial authorities began building covered walkways (qilou) in Serangoon in the 1920s. More Indian immigrants arrived to open shops selling Indian saris, spices, and flowers, and the layout of Little India was officially formed. After Singapore was established in 1965, the government carried out urban renewal in Serangoon to improve living conditions for the local Indian residents. In the 1980s, to promote tourism, Singapore officially named the area Little India.



















Abdul Gafoor Mosque is located at the southern end of Little India. It dates back to 1859, and in 1907, it was rebuilt into its current structure by Shaik Abdul Gafoor, a South Indian Tamil Muslim who worked as a chief clerk at a law firm. Abdul Gafoor raised funds by building shophouses near the mosque, some of which still stand today.

Abdul Gafoor Mosque blends Saracenic (Mughal Revival) style with Neoclassical style, featuring complex arch designs and a dome inspired by ancient Roman architecture. It is very interesting that you can see a basement inside the main prayer hall. It was only rediscovered in 1998, and after renovations, the hall can now accommodate 1,200 people.

The original congregation of Abdul Gafoor Mosque mainly consisted of Tamils from South India and Baweanese people from Bawean Island in East Java. At that time, many Tamils worked nearby as merchants and port laborers, while many Baweanese worked as horse trainers and grooms at the adjacent racecourse. The mosque installed electric lighting in 1928, making it the first mosque in Singapore to have electric lights.



















Today, Abdul Gafoor Mosque continues to serve the South Indian Tamil Muslim community in Singapore and offers religious classes in the Tamil language. This is also one of the few Hanafi mosques in Singapore, where the way of performing worship is the same as that of Hui Muslims, unlike the Shafi'i school followed by the Malay people. The prayer time here is one hour later than in other Shafi'i mosques. At other times, you can see some Muslims who follow the Shafi'i school forming their own separate prayer group at the back of the main hall, which is a very unique scene in Singapore.













At the Indian restaurant by the mosque entrance, everyone drinks lamb bone broth (yangtang) after namaz. It is very comfortable to have a bowl on a rainy day.







Opposite Abdul Gafoor Mosque, at the northern end of Little India, is Angullia Mosque, which was established by Gujarati Muslims from western India. The Angullia family came to Singapore from Gujarat state in the 19th century to do business. In the late 19th century, Mohammed Salleh Eussoofjee Angullia accumulated great wealth through the trade of spices, sugar, timber, and tableware, becoming a prominent figure in Singapore's Indian Muslim community. In 1890, the Angullia family donated the land, and Angullia Mosque was built in 1892. The Angullia family has managed the mosque ever since.

Angullia Mosque was rebuilt in 1970 and expanded again in 2020 to its current appearance. Only the gatehouse built in 1890 has been preserved to this day. Angullia Mosque is the mosque where I have seen the largest number of people praying in Singapore. As the time approached, a queue formed outside the ablution area. People filled the entire main hall, and those who arrived late had to wait outside because they could not get in. After namaz, the imam immediately told everyone to leave in an orderly manner, and the people waiting outside would form a new prayer group after everyone left.

















There are water-saving signs in the ablution area, and similar hadith are posted in several places. I think they are quite meaningful.



If you want to experience Indian halal food in Singapore's Little India, the most convenient place is Tekka Centre (zhujiao basha). It has a row of stalls all run by Indian Muslims, and the prices are very cheap. We first drank a bowl of lamb trotter curry soup, which was hot and perfect for a rainy day. Then we ate freshly made almond flatbread (badam naan) with minced lamb curry. Many people eat it this way, tearing off the flatbread to dip into the curry and eating it bit by bit, finally wiping up every last drop of the sauce.

Tekka Centre was first built in 1915. In the 1930s, it became popular for its wide variety of fresh meat, vegetables, and seafood, and was known to the public as the 'People's Market'. The current building was finished in 1981, and most of the stall owners inside have been running their businesses for two or three generations.



















I had a cup of pulled tea (teh tarik) at the Tekka Centre, then looked around at the Indian clothing on the second floor. The saris are all very sparkly, and there are tailor shops where you can buy fabric and have clothes made on the spot.















If you want to learn more about the history and culture of Singapore's Indian community, I highly recommend visiting the Indian Heritage Centre in Little India. The main exhibition hall is organized by timeline and covers five parts: early contact, origins and migration, early Indian communities in Singapore and Malaya, the social and political awakening of Indians in Singapore and Malaya, and the contributions of Indians to Singapore. Of course, this includes the culture of Singapore's Indian Muslims.





A map showing the migration of Tamils from the Coromandel Coast in southeastern India and Sri Lanka to Singapore and Malaya.



Several areas where Indian communities lived in Singapore during the 19th and 20th centuries.



A group portrait of Singaporean Indians with the Angullia Mosque in Little India in the background.



The luggage that Indian immigrants brought with them when they first arrived in Singapore, along with a passport and family photo belonging to a Muslim merchant who came to Singapore from Gujarat, India, in 1936.







A set of clay figurines of 19th-century Indian merchants.



Clothing worn by Tamil Muslims from the Coromandel Coast of southeastern India in the mid-18th century.





Velvet Arabic calligraphy embroidery from Andhra Pradesh, India, dating to the 20th century.



Indian book stands (rehal) from the 19th and 20th centuries.



Calligraphy from the Deccan region of India, dated 1600.



Various traditional Indian hats from the 20th century.



The Talapa of the Chetti people in Malacca, which is a type of batik headwrap.



The Khoja Turban worn by the Ismaili Shia Khoja people from Gujarat, India. Khoja comes from the Persian words 'Khwaja' or 'Hodja'. They began converting from Hinduism to Islam in the 13th century, and while they hold a Muslim identity, they have kept strong Indian caste customs.





Headwear worn by grooms and boys during circumcision in the mid-20th century.



A 19th-century portrait of Indian Muslims.



A 19th-century procession of Shia Muslims in India during Ashura. On the right is a model of the tombs of Imam Hussein and Hassan called Ta'ziya, and you can also see Alam flags.



An Alam flagpole carried by Shia Muslims in South India during an Ashura procession in the 19th century.





The tiled facade of a mosque in Multan, Pakistan, from 1897-1898, made using the traditional local Kashikari tile-firing technique. This type of tile decoration originated in the Mughal Empire and was influenced by Persian and Sufi cultures.









Indians in Kampong Glam.

Mosques and restaurants.

Kampong Glam is the first planned Muslim community in Singapore. In 1822, Sir Stamford Raffles gave Kampong Glam to Sultan Hussein Muhammad Shah of Johor. Besides the Sultan and his 600 family members, Kampong Glam was home to many Muslim groups at the time, including the Bugis, Arabs, Javanese, and Baweanese people. During the same period, Indian Muslims began moving to Kampong Glam for business. By the early 20th century, they opened restaurants here, the two most important being Victory and Zam Zam on North Bridge Road.

Zam Zam opened in 1908 and Victory in 1910. Both specialize in stuffed flatbread (murtabak) and have been competing for over 100 years. We tried the mutton murtabak at Victory. It tasted more like the griddle cakes (laobing) from Northern China and was not as crispy as the ones we had in Penang.









Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: This first Singapore article introduces Indian Muslim culture through mosques, streets, migration history, food, and everyday community life. It keeps the original travel sequence and cultural facts while using simple English for global readers.

Since the British arrived in Singapore in 1819, Indian Muslims have continuously come to the island as laborers, merchants, and soldiers. After the 20th century, more Indian Muslims settled in Singapore. Most were Tamils from the Coromandel Coast in southeastern India, but there were also Gujaratis from western India, Malabaris from the southwest, and even Dawoodi Bohras and Ahmadis. Over time, the diverse and integrated Indian Muslim culture has become an important part of Singaporean culture. This time, I will take you to experience Singapore's Indian Muslim culture by visiting various Indian mosques, tasting Indian food, and touring the Indian Heritage Centre and the Indian Muslim Heritage Centre.

Indian mosques and shrines (gongbei) in Chinatown.

Al-Abrar Mosque is located on Telok Ayer Street in Singapore's Chinatown. It was built in 1827 by Tamil Muslims from the Coromandel Coast in southeastern India. They were also known as Chulias and mostly worked as merchants or money changers in Chinatown at the time, so this place is also called the Chulia Mosque.

Al-Abrar Mosque is one of Singapore's oldest mosques. It started as a thatched hut, was rebuilt as a brick building with Indian features between 1850 and 1855, and was renovated into its current appearance between 1986 and 1989. The mosque sits in a row of shophouses on Telok Ayer Street and blends seamlessly with the surrounding buildings. The main entrance has two octagonal minarets topped with star and crescent symbols. The interior features European neoclassical design elements, including Doric columns and French-style shutters. Today, the mosque continues to serve the Indian Muslim community. Muslims from other ethnic groups working nearby also come here for worship, especially during the Friday congregational prayer (Jumu'ah).



















Jamae Mosque is located on South Bridge Road in Singapore's Chinatown. It was the main congregational mosque built by the Chulias in Chinatown, and like Al-Abrar Mosque, it is also known as a Chulia mosque.

Jamae Mosque was founded in 1826 and rebuilt into its current form between 1830 and 1835. The mosque's main gate has a distinct South Indian style. It features two seven-story towers on either side, each with a pair of niches on every level, and a central design modeled after a traditional Indian fortress gate. The design is very intricate. The main prayer hall features the neoclassical style typical of Singapore's colonial era, the same style used for the Old Parliament House built during the same period.

Today, Jamae Mosque remains a place of worship for Chulia Muslims and is one of the few mosques in Singapore that offers religious classes in the Tamil language. This was also my first time seeing the walls of a main prayer hall inscribed in three languages: Arabic, English, and Tamil.



















The Nagore Dargha mosque (Nagore Dargha) is located on Telok Ayer Street, not far from the Al-Abrar Mosque. It was built by the Chulia people between 1828 and 1830 and serves as an important Sufi shrine (gongbei) for the Chulia community in Singapore.

The Nagore Dargha mosque was built to honor the famous 16th-century Indian Sufi saint, Syed Shahul Hamid. Shahul Hamid arrived in the town of Nagore in the Tamil Nadu state of southeastern India in 1533 to preach, and he passed away there in 1570. Legend says he performed many miracles in Nagore and even healed the king of the Vijayanagara Empire in India. To honor Shahul Hamid, locals built a shrine (gongbei) over his tomb. It later became an important Sufi center for Tamil Muslims, and many sailors and seafarers would visit the shrine to offer dua for a safe journey before heading out to sea.

After Tamil Muslims immigrated to Penang and Singapore in the 19th century, they built a shrine in each city to honor the saint, modeling the architecture after the original shrine in Nagore. The Singapore shrine uses an eclectic style, featuring a 14-tier square minaret with niches on the outside, and Doric-style pilasters, arches, and large French-style windows on the inside.

In 2011, the Nagore Dargha mosque became the Indian Muslim Heritage Centre, which provides a detailed introduction to the history and culture of Indian Muslims in Singapore.





















A Quran (Guerani) copied around 1900, which uses a rare linen binding method.



An introduction to the Arwi script. Arwi is a script that uses Arabic letters to write the Tamil language, similar to the Xiao'erjing (xiaojing) used by Hui Muslims. The Arwi script includes 13 additional letters not found in the Arabic alphabet.





Items from an Indian Muslim wedding in Singapore during the 20th century.





Tamil language works by Singaporean Tamil Muslims.



Daily items used by Indian Muslims in Singapore.



Items brought by Muslim families who arrived in Singapore from Kadayanallur and Tenkasi in South India after World War I.



The India of Little India

Mosques, food, and the Indian Heritage Centre

Little India is the busiest and most crowded place I visited in Singapore. It feels bigger and more like India than the Little Indias in Kuala Lumpur and Penang. Along the sides of the covered walkways (qilou) are various Indian restaurants, flower shops, and grocery stores, with many people of Indian descent busy shopping.

Unlike Chinatown or Kampong Glam, Little India was not designated for the Indian community by Sir Stamford Raffles. It was known as Serangoon until the 1980s. In the 1820s, the British built lime pits and brick kilns along Serangoon Road, and Indian laborers began working there. After the brick kilns closed in 1860, Serangoon developed a cattle industry, followed by the establishment of slaughterhouses, tanneries, and milk vendors. These industries attracted more Indians to settle here, along with others who worked nearby as port laborers and junior office clerks.

The British colonial authorities began building covered walkways (qilou) in Serangoon in the 1920s. More Indian immigrants arrived to open shops selling Indian saris, spices, and flowers, and the layout of Little India was officially formed. After Singapore was established in 1965, the government carried out urban renewal in Serangoon to improve living conditions for the local Indian residents. In the 1980s, to promote tourism, Singapore officially named the area Little India.



















Abdul Gafoor Mosque is located at the southern end of Little India. It dates back to 1859, and in 1907, it was rebuilt into its current structure by Shaik Abdul Gafoor, a South Indian Tamil Muslim who worked as a chief clerk at a law firm. Abdul Gafoor raised funds by building shophouses near the mosque, some of which still stand today.

Abdul Gafoor Mosque blends Saracenic (Mughal Revival) style with Neoclassical style, featuring complex arch designs and a dome inspired by ancient Roman architecture. It is very interesting that you can see a basement inside the main prayer hall. It was only rediscovered in 1998, and after renovations, the hall can now accommodate 1,200 people.

The original congregation of Abdul Gafoor Mosque mainly consisted of Tamils from South India and Baweanese people from Bawean Island in East Java. At that time, many Tamils worked nearby as merchants and port laborers, while many Baweanese worked as horse trainers and grooms at the adjacent racecourse. The mosque installed electric lighting in 1928, making it the first mosque in Singapore to have electric lights.



















Today, Abdul Gafoor Mosque continues to serve the South Indian Tamil Muslim community in Singapore and offers religious classes in the Tamil language. This is also one of the few Hanafi mosques in Singapore, where the way of performing worship is the same as that of Hui Muslims, unlike the Shafi'i school followed by the Malay people. The prayer time here is one hour later than in other Shafi'i mosques. At other times, you can see some Muslims who follow the Shafi'i school forming their own separate prayer group at the back of the main hall, which is a very unique scene in Singapore.













At the Indian restaurant by the mosque entrance, everyone drinks lamb bone broth (yangtang) after namaz. It is very comfortable to have a bowl on a rainy day.







Opposite Abdul Gafoor Mosque, at the northern end of Little India, is Angullia Mosque, which was established by Gujarati Muslims from western India. The Angullia family came to Singapore from Gujarat state in the 19th century to do business. In the late 19th century, Mohammed Salleh Eussoofjee Angullia accumulated great wealth through the trade of spices, sugar, timber, and tableware, becoming a prominent figure in Singapore's Indian Muslim community. In 1890, the Angullia family donated the land, and Angullia Mosque was built in 1892. The Angullia family has managed the mosque ever since.

Angullia Mosque was rebuilt in 1970 and expanded again in 2020 to its current appearance. Only the gatehouse built in 1890 has been preserved to this day. Angullia Mosque is the mosque where I have seen the largest number of people praying in Singapore. As the time approached, a queue formed outside the ablution area. People filled the entire main hall, and those who arrived late had to wait outside because they could not get in. After namaz, the imam immediately told everyone to leave in an orderly manner, and the people waiting outside would form a new prayer group after everyone left.

















There are water-saving signs in the ablution area, and similar hadith are posted in several places. I think they are quite meaningful.



If you want to experience Indian halal food in Singapore's Little India, the most convenient place is Tekka Centre (zhujiao basha). It has a row of stalls all run by Indian Muslims, and the prices are very cheap. We first drank a bowl of lamb trotter curry soup, which was hot and perfect for a rainy day. Then we ate freshly made almond flatbread (badam naan) with minced lamb curry. Many people eat it this way, tearing off the flatbread to dip into the curry and eating it bit by bit, finally wiping up every last drop of the sauce.

Tekka Centre was first built in 1915. In the 1930s, it became popular for its wide variety of fresh meat, vegetables, and seafood, and was known to the public as the 'People's Market'. The current building was finished in 1981, and most of the stall owners inside have been running their businesses for two or three generations.



















I had a cup of pulled tea (teh tarik) at the Tekka Centre, then looked around at the Indian clothing on the second floor. The saris are all very sparkly, and there are tailor shops where you can buy fabric and have clothes made on the spot.















If you want to learn more about the history and culture of Singapore's Indian community, I highly recommend visiting the Indian Heritage Centre in Little India. The main exhibition hall is organized by timeline and covers five parts: early contact, origins and migration, early Indian communities in Singapore and Malaya, the social and political awakening of Indians in Singapore and Malaya, and the contributions of Indians to Singapore. Of course, this includes the culture of Singapore's Indian Muslims.





A map showing the migration of Tamils from the Coromandel Coast in southeastern India and Sri Lanka to Singapore and Malaya.



Several areas where Indian communities lived in Singapore during the 19th and 20th centuries.



A group portrait of Singaporean Indians with the Angullia Mosque in Little India in the background.



The luggage that Indian immigrants brought with them when they first arrived in Singapore, along with a passport and family photo belonging to a Muslim merchant who came to Singapore from Gujarat, India, in 1936.







A set of clay figurines of 19th-century Indian merchants.



Clothing worn by Tamil Muslims from the Coromandel Coast of southeastern India in the mid-18th century.





Velvet Arabic calligraphy embroidery from Andhra Pradesh, India, dating to the 20th century.



Indian book stands (rehal) from the 19th and 20th centuries.



Calligraphy from the Deccan region of India, dated 1600.



Various traditional Indian hats from the 20th century.



The Talapa of the Chetti people in Malacca, which is a type of batik headwrap.



The Khoja Turban worn by the Ismaili Shia Khoja people from Gujarat, India. Khoja comes from the Persian words 'Khwaja' or 'Hodja'. They began converting from Hinduism to Islam in the 13th century, and while they hold a Muslim identity, they have kept strong Indian caste customs.





Headwear worn by grooms and boys during circumcision in the mid-20th century.



A 19th-century portrait of Indian Muslims.



A 19th-century procession of Shia Muslims in India during Ashura. On the right is a model of the tombs of Imam Hussein and Hassan called Ta'ziya, and you can also see Alam flags.



An Alam flagpole carried by Shia Muslims in South India during an Ashura procession in the 19th century.





The tiled facade of a mosque in Multan, Pakistan, from 1897-1898, made using the traditional local Kashikari tile-firing technique. This type of tile decoration originated in the Mughal Empire and was influenced by Persian and Sufi cultures.









Indians in Kampong Glam.

Mosques and restaurants.

Kampong Glam is the first planned Muslim community in Singapore. In 1822, Sir Stamford Raffles gave Kampong Glam to Sultan Hussein Muhammad Shah of Johor. Besides the Sultan and his 600 family members, Kampong Glam was home to many Muslim groups at the time, including the Bugis, Arabs, Javanese, and Baweanese people. During the same period, Indian Muslims began moving to Kampong Glam for business. By the early 20th century, they opened restaurants here, the two most important being Victory and Zam Zam on North Bridge Road.

Zam Zam opened in 1908 and Victory in 1910. Both specialize in stuffed flatbread (murtabak) and have been competing for over 100 years. We tried the mutton murtabak at Victory. It tasted more like the griddle cakes (laobing) from Northern China and was not as crispy as the ones we had in Penang.









Collapse Read »

Muslim History Guide Harbin: Tatar Mosque, Muslim Community and Heritage

Reposted from the web

Summary: Harbin Tatar Mosque preserves part of the citys Muslim history, tied to Tatar migration, old neighborhoods, and religious life in northeast China. This article follows the story of the mosque and its community memory while keeping the original photos and facts in order.

After Russia occupied Vladivostok in 1860, they began planning a railway across the Qing Dynasty to reach this Pacific port more quickly. In 1896, Li Hongzhang signed the Secret Treaty of Alliance between the Qing Empire and the Russian Empire, naming the line the Great Qing Eastern Railway (Dongqing Railway). After 1920, it was renamed the Chinese Eastern Railway (Zhongdong Railway).

Construction of the Chinese Eastern Railway began in August 1897 with Harbin as the center, and it officially opened to traffic in 1903. During this time, many Tatars from Russia came to the railway line to make a living. They opened small shops, and after earning some money, other Tatars followed them there.

As the center of the Chinese Eastern Railway, Tatars began settling in Harbin in 1901 and built the first wooden mosque that same year. As the Tatar population grew, they rebuilt a brick mosque in 1906. In 1907, they hired İnayetullah Seli Ahmed as imam. He ordered books and magazines from Russia and opened the first Tatar community library.

Imam İnayetullah also served as the principal of the Harbin Tatar Elementary School. The school taught religious knowledge and general subjects, and offered courses in the Tatar and Russian languages. Teachers at the school included the Tatar poet and playwright Husain Gabdyush, who was actively involved in theatrical productions for the Harbin troupe during the 1920s and 1930s. Another teacher, Madina (Asyakaeva) Seliahmet, was a former instructor of higher women's natural science courses in Saint Petersburg. After immigrating to Harbin, she married the younger brother of Imam İnayetullah.

After the October Revolution broke out in 1917, the number of Tatars immigrating to Harbin increased, reaching over a thousand in the 1920s. Most of them made a living through the fur, textile, and clothing trades. To commemorate the 1,000th anniversary of the conversion of their ancestors, the Volga Bulgars, to the faith in 922 AD, the Tatars in Harbin decided to build a new mosque. Construction of the new mosque began in 1923 under the leadership of Imam İnayetullah, but work stopped in September 1924 when the imam passed away. After that, construction stalled due to political instability and poor financial management by the Harbin Tatar Religious and National Association. In 1936, the new imam, Münir Hasibullah, traveled throughout all the Tatar settlements in the Far East to collect donations (niyat), finally allowing the Millennium Mosque to be officially completed and opened on October 8, 1937.



















An old photograph of the Harbin Tatar Mosque taken in 1940, now held in the Waseda University Library, preserves a precious image of the Tatars during Friday prayer (Jumu'ah).















Additionally, the author of the book The Harbin Files, Mara Moustafine, is of Tatar-Jewish-Russian descent and spent her childhood in Harbin. The book writes that her grandfather, Mukhammedzhan Mustafin, originally lived in a village near Kazan in the middle reaches of the Volga River. He came to Harbin in 1920 to work as an electrician and repairman for wealthy people and large companies. Every Friday, Mukhammedzhan went to the Harbin Tatar mosque to perform Jumu'ah. He was an active member of the Harbin Tatar community and served on the community association board for several years. Every year during Eid al-Adha (Qurban Festival), Mukhammedzhan would take his son Alimzhan to the mosque to perform Eid prayers, and then they would go to watch the traditional Tatar horse racing held at the Harbin racecourse.

After the Soviet Union marched into Northeast China in 1945, the Tatars who had immigrated to Harbin to escape the Soviet Union faced harsh treatment. Over the next 10 years, most chose to immigrate to the United States, Canada, and Turkey, while some, like Mara Mustafin's family, immigrated to Australia. By 1960, there were fewer than five Tatars left in Harbin, and the Harbin Tatar community was declared dissolved.





Further reading:

Specialty pastries of the Kazan Tatars

Kazan Kremlin and the National Museum of the Republic of Tatarstan

Tatars in the city of Kazan

Performing Jumu'ah at the Historical Mosque of the Tatars in Moscow

Thirteen traditional mosques of the Kazan Tatars in Russia
Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: Harbin Tatar Mosque preserves part of the citys Muslim history, tied to Tatar migration, old neighborhoods, and religious life in northeast China. This article follows the story of the mosque and its community memory while keeping the original photos and facts in order.

After Russia occupied Vladivostok in 1860, they began planning a railway across the Qing Dynasty to reach this Pacific port more quickly. In 1896, Li Hongzhang signed the Secret Treaty of Alliance between the Qing Empire and the Russian Empire, naming the line the Great Qing Eastern Railway (Dongqing Railway). After 1920, it was renamed the Chinese Eastern Railway (Zhongdong Railway).

Construction of the Chinese Eastern Railway began in August 1897 with Harbin as the center, and it officially opened to traffic in 1903. During this time, many Tatars from Russia came to the railway line to make a living. They opened small shops, and after earning some money, other Tatars followed them there.

As the center of the Chinese Eastern Railway, Tatars began settling in Harbin in 1901 and built the first wooden mosque that same year. As the Tatar population grew, they rebuilt a brick mosque in 1906. In 1907, they hired İnayetullah Seli Ahmed as imam. He ordered books and magazines from Russia and opened the first Tatar community library.

Imam İnayetullah also served as the principal of the Harbin Tatar Elementary School. The school taught religious knowledge and general subjects, and offered courses in the Tatar and Russian languages. Teachers at the school included the Tatar poet and playwright Husain Gabdyush, who was actively involved in theatrical productions for the Harbin troupe during the 1920s and 1930s. Another teacher, Madina (Asyakaeva) Seliahmet, was a former instructor of higher women's natural science courses in Saint Petersburg. After immigrating to Harbin, she married the younger brother of Imam İnayetullah.

After the October Revolution broke out in 1917, the number of Tatars immigrating to Harbin increased, reaching over a thousand in the 1920s. Most of them made a living through the fur, textile, and clothing trades. To commemorate the 1,000th anniversary of the conversion of their ancestors, the Volga Bulgars, to the faith in 922 AD, the Tatars in Harbin decided to build a new mosque. Construction of the new mosque began in 1923 under the leadership of Imam İnayetullah, but work stopped in September 1924 when the imam passed away. After that, construction stalled due to political instability and poor financial management by the Harbin Tatar Religious and National Association. In 1936, the new imam, Münir Hasibullah, traveled throughout all the Tatar settlements in the Far East to collect donations (niyat), finally allowing the Millennium Mosque to be officially completed and opened on October 8, 1937.



















An old photograph of the Harbin Tatar Mosque taken in 1940, now held in the Waseda University Library, preserves a precious image of the Tatars during Friday prayer (Jumu'ah).















Additionally, the author of the book The Harbin Files, Mara Moustafine, is of Tatar-Jewish-Russian descent and spent her childhood in Harbin. The book writes that her grandfather, Mukhammedzhan Mustafin, originally lived in a village near Kazan in the middle reaches of the Volga River. He came to Harbin in 1920 to work as an electrician and repairman for wealthy people and large companies. Every Friday, Mukhammedzhan went to the Harbin Tatar mosque to perform Jumu'ah. He was an active member of the Harbin Tatar community and served on the community association board for several years. Every year during Eid al-Adha (Qurban Festival), Mukhammedzhan would take his son Alimzhan to the mosque to perform Eid prayers, and then they would go to watch the traditional Tatar horse racing held at the Harbin racecourse.

After the Soviet Union marched into Northeast China in 1945, the Tatars who had immigrated to Harbin to escape the Soviet Union faced harsh treatment. Over the next 10 years, most chose to immigrate to the United States, Canada, and Turkey, while some, like Mara Mustafin's family, immigrated to Australia. By 1960, there were fewer than five Tatars left in Harbin, and the Harbin Tatar community was declared dissolved.





Further reading:

Specialty pastries of the Kazan Tatars

Kazan Kremlin and the National Museum of the Republic of Tatarstan

Tatars in the city of Kazan

Performing Jumu'ah at the Historical Mosque of the Tatars in Moscow

Thirteen traditional mosques of the Kazan Tatars in Russia Collapse Read »

Muslim Travel Guide Bangkok: Halal Food, Muslim-Friendly Stays and Travel Tips

Reposted from the web

Summary: Bangkok — Halal Food and Muslim Travel Tips is presented here as a firsthand travel account in clear English, beginning with this scene: I went to Thailand for the May Day holiday this year, my first trip abroad in three years. The account keeps its focus on Bangkok Halal Food, Mosques, Muslim Travel while preserving the names, places, food, and historical details from the Chinese source.

I went to Thailand for the May Day holiday this year, my first trip abroad in three years. Even though Thailand is in the middle of a hot summer, it didn't stop people's enthusiasm, and you could hear Chinese speakers everywhere on the streets of Bangkok. I visited 9 Yunnanese Hui Muslim mosques and 7 Indian-descendant mosques in Northern Thailand, along with 9 communities made up of different Muslim ethnic groups in Bangkok, and I will share these with you one by one. In this article, I will first share the various snacks I ate at halal food stalls in Bangkok and the Muslim hotel where I stayed.

Islamic Center of Thailand Foundation

I had breakfast at the Islamic Center of Thailand Foundation in the morning. The Islamic Center of Thailand Foundation is a modernist building designed by a young Bangladeshi-Thai Muslim architect named Paichit Pongpunluk. Construction began in 1970, but due to budget issues, it took 11 years to complete. Once finished, it became a landmark building and activity center for Thai Muslims.





We bought stir-fried holy basil chicken rice (gaprao gai), grilled chicken skewers (satay), and Thai red tea. Gaprao is also called holy basil. It originated in South Asia and is grown throughout the tropical regions of Southeast Asia. Stir-frying meat with gaprao leaves makes it go perfectly with rice. Thai red tea is made with Ceylon black tea, condensed milk, sugar, and milk. You can drink it hot for breakfast, but it is usually served iced. There are many halal stalls downstairs at the Islamic Center of Thailand, but we arrived early, so not all of them were open. Usually, there is not only food but also books, clothing, and various activities, making it well worth a visit.



















Snack stalls at the entrance of Haroon Mosque

After finishing the noon namaz, we had lunch at the entrance of Haroon Mosque by the Chao Phraya River, where there is a row of local halal snack stalls. Haroon Mosque is named after an Indonesian merchant named Toh Haroon Bafaden. He came to Bangkok from Indonesia with his father to do business in 1828 (some say 1837), then got married, had children, and settled down. He built Haroon Mosque shortly after, and a Muslim community gradually formed around the mosque.







We first ate stewed beef and chicken meatball glass noodle soup. The beef was incredibly fragrant, and Zainab and I both agreed it was the best thing we ate in Bangkok! Then I had basil chicken, meatballs, and chicken liver with rice. After that, I had a bowl of stewed chicken feet. They were soft and flavorful, but the soup was super spicy, haha.

















Two things are essential for eating street food in Bangkok's hot summer: a powerful electric fan and a cold drink with ice! Otherwise, I really don't think I could eat anything, haha.



We ate the classic street food, Pad Thai. Pad Thai is also called Thai stir-fried rice noodles. It contains rice noodles, scrambled eggs, bean sprouts, crushed peanuts, and fresh shrimp, served with lime and chives. The style of stir-fried rice noodles was brought to Thailand by Chinese immigrants hundreds of years ago, but it didn't become popular until the mid-20th century. During World War II, rice was in short supply in Thailand. The Thai government began promoting a type of rice noodle from Chanthaburi Province in the east, which made stir-fried noodles a national snack in Thailand.









If stir-fried noodles are the first impression of Thai snacks, then Roti flatbread can be called the first impression of Thai halal snacks. Every night market in Thailand seems to have a cart where Thai Muslims sell Roti flatbread, and every stall is very popular.











ICONSIAM Food Court

I highly recommend SOOKSIAM, the food court on the first floor of ICONSIAM, to any friends (dosti) visiting Bangkok in the summer. It gathers specialty snacks from all over Thailand and has many halal stalls, many of which are run by Malay-Thai Muslims. The most important thing is that the indoor air conditioning is great. Once you go in during the hot summer, you won't want to leave!



















We first ate steamed egg with crab. It had plenty of crab roe and was very flavorful when paired with the signature spicy and sour dipping sauce (nam chim). They also have large shrimp, squid, and various other seafood. Malay-Thai Muslims are very skilled at cooking seafood.









Then we had the most classic Thai Muslim street snack: Roti with Thai milk tea. Roti originally meant bread in Sanskrit, and it was later brought to Thailand by South Asian and Malay Muslims. Unlike in South Asia, Thai-style roti is sweet. You can add bananas, eggs, and chocolate, and it is topped with sweetened condensed milk.













We ate the local Thai specialties of spicy chicken sausage with lotus root stems and spicy green mango with oysters (tam mamuang). These salads often include raw cowpeas, unlike our habit of blanching them first. Thai salads are known for their sour and spicy flavors, seasoned with lime and bird's eye chili. People who cannot handle spice might find the bird's eye chili too hot, so it is best to ask for less spice or no spice beforehand.

Spicy green mango salad belongs to the 'tam' category of the four main types of Thai salads, which means 'pounded.' The most famous version in Thailand is spicy green papaya salad. When making it, you pound the green mango with garlic, bird's eye chili, dried shrimp, fish sauce, and other seasonings to release the aroma, then add palm sugar and lime juice.







For our main course, we chose chicken fat rice (khao man gai). Thai chicken fat rice comes from the Wenchang chicken rice brought to Siam by Chinese workers who immigrated from Hainan in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Cooking the rice in chicken broth makes it very fragrant. Unlike Hainanese chicken rice in Singapore and Malaysia, Thai chicken fat rice uses a chicken rice paste made from ginger, garlic, cilantro stems, and oil when stewing the chicken. It is served with a Thai sweet and spicy sauce (nam phrik), which contains chili, shallots, garlic, lime juice, fish sauce, and shrimp paste.













Mango sticky rice at Suvarnabhumi Airport

Before leaving, I bought the traditional Thai snack mango sticky rice (khao niao mamuang) at a halal fast-food restaurant in Bangkok's Suvarnabhumi Airport. It is perfect for eating on the plane. Everyone loves this snack during the Thai mango season in April and May. The sticky rice is mixed with coconut milk and palm sugar, and it is usually served with two sweet local Thai yellow mango varieties, Nam Dok Mai and Ok rong.

Mango sticky rice can be traced back to poems from the late Ayutthaya period (17th-18th centuries). It later spread to other Southeast Asian countries, but it remains most famous in Thailand.









Muslim hotel Al Meroz

On this trip to Bangkok, I stayed at the best local Muslim hotel, Al Meroz. It is near the Ramkhamhaeng station along the Airport Rail Link, just 20 minutes from Suvarnabhumi Airport. There is a water taxi next to the hotel that goes to the old town, so you can get into the city without any traffic jams. The Thailand Islamic Centre Foundation is in the alley across the street, where you can get a firsthand look at Thai Muslim culture.

The hotel building has three high-end halal restaurants and a bakery. The breakfast buffet is also very extensive, featuring various halal flavors from Malay, South Asian, and local Thai traditions.



















The Ramadan buffet advertisement, prayer hall, wudu area (water room), and rooftop swimming pool at the Al Meroz Hotel.

















Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: Bangkok — Halal Food and Muslim Travel Tips is presented here as a firsthand travel account in clear English, beginning with this scene: I went to Thailand for the May Day holiday this year, my first trip abroad in three years. The account keeps its focus on Bangkok Halal Food, Mosques, Muslim Travel while preserving the names, places, food, and historical details from the Chinese source.

I went to Thailand for the May Day holiday this year, my first trip abroad in three years. Even though Thailand is in the middle of a hot summer, it didn't stop people's enthusiasm, and you could hear Chinese speakers everywhere on the streets of Bangkok. I visited 9 Yunnanese Hui Muslim mosques and 7 Indian-descendant mosques in Northern Thailand, along with 9 communities made up of different Muslim ethnic groups in Bangkok, and I will share these with you one by one. In this article, I will first share the various snacks I ate at halal food stalls in Bangkok and the Muslim hotel where I stayed.

Islamic Center of Thailand Foundation

I had breakfast at the Islamic Center of Thailand Foundation in the morning. The Islamic Center of Thailand Foundation is a modernist building designed by a young Bangladeshi-Thai Muslim architect named Paichit Pongpunluk. Construction began in 1970, but due to budget issues, it took 11 years to complete. Once finished, it became a landmark building and activity center for Thai Muslims.





We bought stir-fried holy basil chicken rice (gaprao gai), grilled chicken skewers (satay), and Thai red tea. Gaprao is also called holy basil. It originated in South Asia and is grown throughout the tropical regions of Southeast Asia. Stir-frying meat with gaprao leaves makes it go perfectly with rice. Thai red tea is made with Ceylon black tea, condensed milk, sugar, and milk. You can drink it hot for breakfast, but it is usually served iced. There are many halal stalls downstairs at the Islamic Center of Thailand, but we arrived early, so not all of them were open. Usually, there is not only food but also books, clothing, and various activities, making it well worth a visit.



















Snack stalls at the entrance of Haroon Mosque

After finishing the noon namaz, we had lunch at the entrance of Haroon Mosque by the Chao Phraya River, where there is a row of local halal snack stalls. Haroon Mosque is named after an Indonesian merchant named Toh Haroon Bafaden. He came to Bangkok from Indonesia with his father to do business in 1828 (some say 1837), then got married, had children, and settled down. He built Haroon Mosque shortly after, and a Muslim community gradually formed around the mosque.







We first ate stewed beef and chicken meatball glass noodle soup. The beef was incredibly fragrant, and Zainab and I both agreed it was the best thing we ate in Bangkok! Then I had basil chicken, meatballs, and chicken liver with rice. After that, I had a bowl of stewed chicken feet. They were soft and flavorful, but the soup was super spicy, haha.

















Two things are essential for eating street food in Bangkok's hot summer: a powerful electric fan and a cold drink with ice! Otherwise, I really don't think I could eat anything, haha.



We ate the classic street food, Pad Thai. Pad Thai is also called Thai stir-fried rice noodles. It contains rice noodles, scrambled eggs, bean sprouts, crushed peanuts, and fresh shrimp, served with lime and chives. The style of stir-fried rice noodles was brought to Thailand by Chinese immigrants hundreds of years ago, but it didn't become popular until the mid-20th century. During World War II, rice was in short supply in Thailand. The Thai government began promoting a type of rice noodle from Chanthaburi Province in the east, which made stir-fried noodles a national snack in Thailand.









If stir-fried noodles are the first impression of Thai snacks, then Roti flatbread can be called the first impression of Thai halal snacks. Every night market in Thailand seems to have a cart where Thai Muslims sell Roti flatbread, and every stall is very popular.











ICONSIAM Food Court

I highly recommend SOOKSIAM, the food court on the first floor of ICONSIAM, to any friends (dosti) visiting Bangkok in the summer. It gathers specialty snacks from all over Thailand and has many halal stalls, many of which are run by Malay-Thai Muslims. The most important thing is that the indoor air conditioning is great. Once you go in during the hot summer, you won't want to leave!



















We first ate steamed egg with crab. It had plenty of crab roe and was very flavorful when paired with the signature spicy and sour dipping sauce (nam chim). They also have large shrimp, squid, and various other seafood. Malay-Thai Muslims are very skilled at cooking seafood.









Then we had the most classic Thai Muslim street snack: Roti with Thai milk tea. Roti originally meant bread in Sanskrit, and it was later brought to Thailand by South Asian and Malay Muslims. Unlike in South Asia, Thai-style roti is sweet. You can add bananas, eggs, and chocolate, and it is topped with sweetened condensed milk.













We ate the local Thai specialties of spicy chicken sausage with lotus root stems and spicy green mango with oysters (tam mamuang). These salads often include raw cowpeas, unlike our habit of blanching them first. Thai salads are known for their sour and spicy flavors, seasoned with lime and bird's eye chili. People who cannot handle spice might find the bird's eye chili too hot, so it is best to ask for less spice or no spice beforehand.

Spicy green mango salad belongs to the 'tam' category of the four main types of Thai salads, which means 'pounded.' The most famous version in Thailand is spicy green papaya salad. When making it, you pound the green mango with garlic, bird's eye chili, dried shrimp, fish sauce, and other seasonings to release the aroma, then add palm sugar and lime juice.







For our main course, we chose chicken fat rice (khao man gai). Thai chicken fat rice comes from the Wenchang chicken rice brought to Siam by Chinese workers who immigrated from Hainan in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Cooking the rice in chicken broth makes it very fragrant. Unlike Hainanese chicken rice in Singapore and Malaysia, Thai chicken fat rice uses a chicken rice paste made from ginger, garlic, cilantro stems, and oil when stewing the chicken. It is served with a Thai sweet and spicy sauce (nam phrik), which contains chili, shallots, garlic, lime juice, fish sauce, and shrimp paste.













Mango sticky rice at Suvarnabhumi Airport

Before leaving, I bought the traditional Thai snack mango sticky rice (khao niao mamuang) at a halal fast-food restaurant in Bangkok's Suvarnabhumi Airport. It is perfect for eating on the plane. Everyone loves this snack during the Thai mango season in April and May. The sticky rice is mixed with coconut milk and palm sugar, and it is usually served with two sweet local Thai yellow mango varieties, Nam Dok Mai and Ok rong.

Mango sticky rice can be traced back to poems from the late Ayutthaya period (17th-18th centuries). It later spread to other Southeast Asian countries, but it remains most famous in Thailand.









Muslim hotel Al Meroz

On this trip to Bangkok, I stayed at the best local Muslim hotel, Al Meroz. It is near the Ramkhamhaeng station along the Airport Rail Link, just 20 minutes from Suvarnabhumi Airport. There is a water taxi next to the hotel that goes to the old town, so you can get into the city without any traffic jams. The Thailand Islamic Centre Foundation is in the alley across the street, where you can get a firsthand look at Thai Muslim culture.

The hotel building has three high-end halal restaurants and a bakery. The breakfast buffet is also very extensive, featuring various halal flavors from Malay, South Asian, and local Thai traditions.



















The Ramadan buffet advertisement, prayer hall, wudu area (water room), and rooftop swimming pool at the Al Meroz Hotel.

















Collapse Read »

Muslim History Guide Delhi: Mughal Capital, Old Mosques and Islamic Heritage

Reposted from the web

Summary: Delhi's Seventh City — Mughal Capital and Muslim History is presented here as a firsthand travel account in clear English, beginning with this scene: In my last article, The Sixth City of Delhi: The Birth of the Mughal Empire, I wrote about how Humayun, the second Mughal emperor, fell to his death from his library in the sixth city of Delhi, Dinpanah, in 1556. The account keeps its focus on Delhi Travel, Mughal History, Muslim Heritage while preserving the names, places, food, and historical details from the Chinese source.

In my last article, The Sixth City of Delhi: The Birth of the Mughal Empire, I wrote about how Humayun, the second Mughal emperor, fell to his death from his library in the sixth city of Delhi, Dinpanah, in 1556. His son, Emperor Akbar, moved the Mughal capital to Agra in 1558, and Delhi lost its status as the capital.

In 1628, Shah Jahan became the fifth emperor of the Mughal Empire. Under his rule, Mughal architectural aesthetics reached a new height, and this period is widely recognized as the golden age of Mughal architecture. Besides building the Taj Mahal, Shah Jahan built the seventh city of Delhi between 1639 and 1648, naming it Shahjahanabad after himself. Shah Jahan made Shahjahanabad the capital of the Mughal Empire, aiming to show the grandeur and power of the empire.

Shahjahanabad is now known as Old Delhi and still keeps many historical sites and traditional neighborhoods. The most important site inside the city, the Red Fort, was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2007.

The layout of Shahjahanabad was inspired by the ancient Persian city of Isfahan and inherited urban planning ideas from the Agra Fort and Fatehpur Sikri, which were built by the previous Mughal emperor, Akbar. The city has an irregular shape, with the eastern wall built along the course of the Yamuna River. The Yamuna River later changed its course and moved away from the walls, and the original riverbed is now the Delhi Inner Ring Road.

The city has two main roads: Chandni Chowk running east-west and Faiz Bazaar running north-south, with major commercial areas on both sides of the streets. The Red Fort, where the Mughal royal family lived, is located at the junction of these two main roads.



1858



1914

Table of Contents

1. Red Fort: 1639-1648

1. Lahore Gate

2. Chhatta Chowk (market)

3. Naubat Khana (drum house)

4. Diwan-i-Aam (public audience hall)

5. Rang Mahal (palace of the empresses)

6. Khas Mahal (emperor's private palace)

7. Diwan-i-Khas (private audience hall)

8. Hammam-e-Lal Qila (bathhouse)

9. Pearl Mosque (Moti Masjid)

10. King's Tower (Shah Burj)

11. Life-Giving Garden (Hayat Bakhsh Bagh)

2. Jama Mosque: 1650-1656

3. Fatehpuri Mosque: 1650

4. Golden Mosque (Sunehri Masjid): 1751

5. Great Mosque (Kalan Masjid): 1387

6. Hauzwali Mosque: 15th century

1. Red Fort: 1639-1648

Shah Jahan decided to move the capital from Agra back to Delhi in 1638. On May 12, 1639, he ordered the construction of the Red Fort. The designer was Ustad Ahmad Lahauri, the architect who built the Taj Mahal.

On the north side of the Red Fort is the Salimgarh Fort, built by the Sur dynasty in 1546 (I introduced this in my previous article, 'The Sixth City of Delhi: The Birth of the Mughal Empire'). The Red Fort was designed to connect to Salimgarh Fort via a bridge, joining the two castles together.

In 1857, the last Mughal emperor, Bahadur Shah II, left the Red Fort and was arrested by the British army. He was tried at the Red Fort in 1858 and exiled to Yangon, marking the end of the Mughal Empire. Afterward, the Red Fort was used as a British military barracks. Most of the buildings were demolished. Only the marble structures in the far east survived because they were repurposed as barracks, offices, dormitories, and canteens.

After India's independence, the Red Fort continued to be used as an Indian Army barracks until 2003, when the Archaeological Survey of India was finally authorized to begin restoration. In 2009, the Archaeological Survey of India developed a comprehensive protection and management plan for the Red Fort under the direction of the Supreme Court.

The Red Fort viewed from east to west, painted in 1785.



The Red Fort viewed from east to west, painted by Ghulam Ali Khan between 1852 and 1854.



1. Lahore Gate

The Lahore Gate is the west gate of the Red Fort. It is named for facing the city of Lahore. During the reign of the sixth Mughal emperor, Aurangzeb (reigned 1658-1707), a barbican was added to the outside of the gate. Since 1947, the Prime Minister of India has stood at the Lahore Gate to deliver a speech every Indian Independence Day.





Painted by Ghulam Ali Khan between 1852 and 1854.











2. Chhatta Chowk (market)

After entering the Lahore Gate, you find a market called Chhatta Chowk. During the Mughal era, this was where silk and jewelry were sold to members of the royal family.







Painted by Ghulam Ali Khan between 1852 and 1854.



(Optional) Image description

3. Naubat Khana (drum house)

After walking through the Chhatta Chowk market, you reach the outer courtyard of the Red Fort. The building in the center of the outer courtyard is called the Naubat Khana, which serves as the main gate to the inner court. Naubat Khana means 'drum house.' During the Mughal era, ceremonial music was played here five times a day, and everyone except members of the royal family had to dismount from their horses when they reached this point. After 1857, the British army destroyed the arcades on both sides of the Naubat Khana and the central pool, leaving only the central building.



Photographed in 1858 by British army officer Robert Christopher Tytler and his wife Harriet.













4. Diwan-i-Aam (public audience hall)

After passing through the Naubat Khana, you enter the inner courtyard of the Red Fort, where the Diwan-i-Aam stands directly in front of you. Diwan-i-Aam means 'Hall of Public Audience.' It was the place where the Mughal emperor met with the public to hear their concerns.







In the center of the hall is the throne where the emperor sat. The marble steps below the throne were where the prime minister (wazir) received petitions from the public.



The door behind the throne, painted by Ghulam Ali Khan between 1852 and 1854.





5. Rang Mahal (palace of the empresses)

After entering the Diwan-i-Aam, you reach the harem section of the Red Fort. Rang Mahal means 'Palace of Colors.' It was the living quarters for the concubines of the Mughal emperor.







Painted by Ghulam Ali Khan between 1852 and 1854.

A shallow canal called the Stream of Paradise (Nahr-i-Bihist) flows into the marble pool in front of the Rang Mahal. During the hot summer, the women of the Mughal royal family would stay in the basement of the Diwan-i-Aam to escape the heat.





Painted by Ghulam Ali Khan between 1852 and 1854.

6. Khas Mahal (emperor's private palace)

To the north of the Rang Mahal is the Khass Mahal, which was the sleeping quarters of the Mughal emperor. The Rang Mahal was built of white marble. Its walls were originally inlaid with various jewels and the ceiling was gilded, but these features have not been preserved.







Painted by Sir Thomas Theophilus Metcalfe in 1843.

The last Mughal emperor, Bahadur Shah II, ascends the throne in the Khas Mahal, painted by Ghulam Ali Khan between 1837 and 1838.



7. Hall of Private Audience (Diwan-i-Khas)

North of the Khas Mahal is the Hall of Private Audience (Diwan-i-Khas), where the Mughal emperor met with courtiers and state guests. The Hall of Private Audience (Diwan-i-Khas) means "private reception room." It is built of white marble and was once inlaid with various jewels, featuring the exquisite Peacock Throne in the center. The hall once had a ceiling inlaid with gold and silver, but these were later removed. The current ceiling was installed in 1911.

Outside the hall, there used to be red awnings, and the arches below were inscribed with verses by the famous Sufi master Amir Khusrow:

If there is a paradise on earth,

It is this, it is this, it is this.





Painted by Ghulam 'Ali Khan in 1817.









Painted by Ghulam Ali Khan between 1852 and 1854.



The Peacock Throne in 1850.

8. Hammam-e-Lal Qila (bathhouse)

North of the Hall of Private Audience (Diwan-i-Khas) is the Red Fort Bathhouse (Hammam-e-Lal Qila), which was used by the Mughal royal family. The Red Fort Bathhouse (Hammam-e-Lal Qila) is a Turkish-style bath consisting of three sections: a children's bath, a dressing room, and a hot bath. Legend has it that the water flowing from the taps at that time was mixed with rose perfume.





Painted by Ghulam Ali Khan between 1852 and 1854.

9. Pearl Mosque (Moti Masjid)

The Pearl Mosque (Moti Masjid) is west of the bathhouse. It was built by the sixth Mughal emperor, Aurangzeb, between 1659 and 1660 for his second wife, Nawab Bai. Pearl (Moti) means "pearl." It is built of white marble, and its three domes were originally covered with gilded copper plates, which were lost after 1857.









Painted by Ghulam Ali Khan between 1852 and 1854.



Painted by Vasily Vereshchagin in the late 1880s.

10. King's Tower (Shah Burj)

The northernmost part of the harem is a white marble pavilion built during the Aurangzeb period. Behind the pavilion is the Shahi Burj, the northeast corner tower of the Red Fort, which means "Imperial Tower." Inside the tower is a hydraulic system that carries water from outside the Red Fort into its gardens and buildings.







Painted by Sir Thomas Metcalfe in 1843.

11. Life-Giving Garden (Hayat Bakhsh Bagh)

In the northwest part of the harem is the royal water garden Hayat Bakhsh Bagh, which means 'Life-Giving Garden'. Most of the garden's buildings were destroyed after 1857, and only three survive today.

At the center of the garden is the red sandstone building Zafar Mahal, built in 1842 by the last Mughal emperor, Bahadur Shah II. The building sits in a pool and was originally connected to the shore by a red sandstone bridge, but it was destroyed after 1857. After 1857, the British army used this area as a swimming pool.











Painted by Ghulam Ali Khan between 1852 and 1854.

To the north and south of the garden are two white marble pavilions called Sawan and Bhadon, named after the months of July and August in the Indian rainy season, as the ladies of the Mughal palace loved to visit the garden during these two months. The pavilions have wall niches that held vases with golden flowers during the day and small oil lamps at night.





To the west of Hayat Bakhsh Bagh, there was originally another water garden called Mehtab Bagh, meaning 'Moon Garden,' but after 1857, the site was turned into a British military barracks, and now only ruins remain.



2. Jama Mosque: 1650-1656

The Jama Masjid mosque is located southwest of the Red Fort; it was built between 1650 and 1656 by order of Shah Jahan and served as the royal mosque of the Mughal Empire.

The mosque was built by more than 5,000 workers under the leadership of Shah Jahan's vizier (wazir) Saadullah Khan, costing over 1 million rupees. The mosque stands on a platform more than 9 meters above the ground and is made of red sandstone and marble, featuring a main hall connected by colonnades, two 40-meter-high minarets, and three gates. The east gate was reserved for the Mughal royal family and had a path that connected directly to the Delhi Gate of the Red Fort.

After 1857, the British seized the Jama Masjid mosque and stationed troops inside. They originally wanted to demolish the mosque, but they failed due to strong opposition, though the madrasa (Islamic school) on the south side of the mosque was destroyed as a result.















The mihrab in the center of the main hall indicates the direction of prayer toward Mecca:





Besides the main mihrab in the center, there is a smaller mihrab on each side.



During Jumu'ah, the imam stands on this stone platform to deliver the khutbah.



There is a tower at each of the four corners of the colonnade.







The east gate is the main entrance:





South Gate



North Gate



The water pool in the courtyard for wudu:





Jama means Jumu'ah, which refers to the Friday congregational prayer. The Jumu'ah mosque is usually the largest in the community, and the most important weekly prayer is held here every Friday at noon. I was lucky enough to attend a Friday Jumu'ah prayer at the Jama Mosque.

On the morning of Jumu'ah, more prayer rugs were already laid out in the courtyard.



People are performing wudu for the Jumu'ah prayer:



More and more people are arriving.







The imam leading the prayer climbs onto the stone platform.



After the prayer, people take photos:





3. Fatehpuri Mosque: 1650

Fatehpuri Mosque is located at the western end of Chandni Chowk, the main east-west road in Shahjahanabad. It was built in 1650 under the direction of Fatehpuri Begum, the wife of Shah Jahan. The mosque is in the classic Mughal style, built with red sandstone, featuring minarets on both sides and a main prayer hall in the middle. The main hall has seven arched bays, and the central iwan arch is topped with a Mughal-style dome.

















4. Golden Mosque (Sunehri Masjid): 1751

Sunehri Mosque is located south of the Red Fort. It was built in 1751 by Qudsia Begum, the wife of the twelfth Mughal Emperor, Muhammad Shah. After Muhammad Shah died, Qudsia Begum's son, Ahmad Shah Bahadur, succeeded to the throne, making Qudsia Begum the de facto ruler of the Mughal Empire between 1748 and 1754.

During her rule, Qudsia Begum built a series of structures in Delhi, and the Sunehri Mosque is the most understated in its architectural style. The mosque's dome was originally copper-plated, but during renovations in 1852, sandstone replaced the damaged copper plates.













5. Great Mosque (Kalan Masjid): 1387

Kalan Mosque is one of the very few mosques in Shahjahanabad that existed before the city was built. It was constructed in 1387 by Khan-i-Jahan Maqbul, the vizier of Sultan Feroz Shah Tughlaq (reigned 1351-1388) of the Delhi Sultanate's Tughlaq dynasty. It is believed to have been built to commemorate a Sufi saint.

The mosque has been in continuous use, so the interior has changed significantly.









6. Hauzwali Mosque: 15th century

Hauzwali Mosque is another mosque that existed before the city of Shahjahanabad was built. Because the ground level has changed so much over time, the bottom half of the mosque is now underground, leaving only the top parts of the arches and the mihrab visible.





Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: Delhi's Seventh City — Mughal Capital and Muslim History is presented here as a firsthand travel account in clear English, beginning with this scene: In my last article, The Sixth City of Delhi: The Birth of the Mughal Empire, I wrote about how Humayun, the second Mughal emperor, fell to his death from his library in the sixth city of Delhi, Dinpanah, in 1556. The account keeps its focus on Delhi Travel, Mughal History, Muslim Heritage while preserving the names, places, food, and historical details from the Chinese source.

In my last article, The Sixth City of Delhi: The Birth of the Mughal Empire, I wrote about how Humayun, the second Mughal emperor, fell to his death from his library in the sixth city of Delhi, Dinpanah, in 1556. His son, Emperor Akbar, moved the Mughal capital to Agra in 1558, and Delhi lost its status as the capital.

In 1628, Shah Jahan became the fifth emperor of the Mughal Empire. Under his rule, Mughal architectural aesthetics reached a new height, and this period is widely recognized as the golden age of Mughal architecture. Besides building the Taj Mahal, Shah Jahan built the seventh city of Delhi between 1639 and 1648, naming it Shahjahanabad after himself. Shah Jahan made Shahjahanabad the capital of the Mughal Empire, aiming to show the grandeur and power of the empire.

Shahjahanabad is now known as Old Delhi and still keeps many historical sites and traditional neighborhoods. The most important site inside the city, the Red Fort, was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2007.

The layout of Shahjahanabad was inspired by the ancient Persian city of Isfahan and inherited urban planning ideas from the Agra Fort and Fatehpur Sikri, which were built by the previous Mughal emperor, Akbar. The city has an irregular shape, with the eastern wall built along the course of the Yamuna River. The Yamuna River later changed its course and moved away from the walls, and the original riverbed is now the Delhi Inner Ring Road.

The city has two main roads: Chandni Chowk running east-west and Faiz Bazaar running north-south, with major commercial areas on both sides of the streets. The Red Fort, where the Mughal royal family lived, is located at the junction of these two main roads.



1858



1914

Table of Contents

1. Red Fort: 1639-1648

1. Lahore Gate

2. Chhatta Chowk (market)

3. Naubat Khana (drum house)

4. Diwan-i-Aam (public audience hall)

5. Rang Mahal (palace of the empresses)

6. Khas Mahal (emperor's private palace)

7. Diwan-i-Khas (private audience hall)

8. Hammam-e-Lal Qila (bathhouse)

9. Pearl Mosque (Moti Masjid)

10. King's Tower (Shah Burj)

11. Life-Giving Garden (Hayat Bakhsh Bagh)

2. Jama Mosque: 1650-1656

3. Fatehpuri Mosque: 1650

4. Golden Mosque (Sunehri Masjid): 1751

5. Great Mosque (Kalan Masjid): 1387

6. Hauzwali Mosque: 15th century

1. Red Fort: 1639-1648

Shah Jahan decided to move the capital from Agra back to Delhi in 1638. On May 12, 1639, he ordered the construction of the Red Fort. The designer was Ustad Ahmad Lahauri, the architect who built the Taj Mahal.

On the north side of the Red Fort is the Salimgarh Fort, built by the Sur dynasty in 1546 (I introduced this in my previous article, 'The Sixth City of Delhi: The Birth of the Mughal Empire'). The Red Fort was designed to connect to Salimgarh Fort via a bridge, joining the two castles together.

In 1857, the last Mughal emperor, Bahadur Shah II, left the Red Fort and was arrested by the British army. He was tried at the Red Fort in 1858 and exiled to Yangon, marking the end of the Mughal Empire. Afterward, the Red Fort was used as a British military barracks. Most of the buildings were demolished. Only the marble structures in the far east survived because they were repurposed as barracks, offices, dormitories, and canteens.

After India's independence, the Red Fort continued to be used as an Indian Army barracks until 2003, when the Archaeological Survey of India was finally authorized to begin restoration. In 2009, the Archaeological Survey of India developed a comprehensive protection and management plan for the Red Fort under the direction of the Supreme Court.

The Red Fort viewed from east to west, painted in 1785.



The Red Fort viewed from east to west, painted by Ghulam Ali Khan between 1852 and 1854.



1. Lahore Gate

The Lahore Gate is the west gate of the Red Fort. It is named for facing the city of Lahore. During the reign of the sixth Mughal emperor, Aurangzeb (reigned 1658-1707), a barbican was added to the outside of the gate. Since 1947, the Prime Minister of India has stood at the Lahore Gate to deliver a speech every Indian Independence Day.





Painted by Ghulam Ali Khan between 1852 and 1854.











2. Chhatta Chowk (market)

After entering the Lahore Gate, you find a market called Chhatta Chowk. During the Mughal era, this was where silk and jewelry were sold to members of the royal family.







Painted by Ghulam Ali Khan between 1852 and 1854.



(Optional) Image description

3. Naubat Khana (drum house)

After walking through the Chhatta Chowk market, you reach the outer courtyard of the Red Fort. The building in the center of the outer courtyard is called the Naubat Khana, which serves as the main gate to the inner court. Naubat Khana means 'drum house.' During the Mughal era, ceremonial music was played here five times a day, and everyone except members of the royal family had to dismount from their horses when they reached this point. After 1857, the British army destroyed the arcades on both sides of the Naubat Khana and the central pool, leaving only the central building.



Photographed in 1858 by British army officer Robert Christopher Tytler and his wife Harriet.













4. Diwan-i-Aam (public audience hall)

After passing through the Naubat Khana, you enter the inner courtyard of the Red Fort, where the Diwan-i-Aam stands directly in front of you. Diwan-i-Aam means 'Hall of Public Audience.' It was the place where the Mughal emperor met with the public to hear their concerns.







In the center of the hall is the throne where the emperor sat. The marble steps below the throne were where the prime minister (wazir) received petitions from the public.



The door behind the throne, painted by Ghulam Ali Khan between 1852 and 1854.





5. Rang Mahal (palace of the empresses)

After entering the Diwan-i-Aam, you reach the harem section of the Red Fort. Rang Mahal means 'Palace of Colors.' It was the living quarters for the concubines of the Mughal emperor.







Painted by Ghulam Ali Khan between 1852 and 1854.

A shallow canal called the Stream of Paradise (Nahr-i-Bihist) flows into the marble pool in front of the Rang Mahal. During the hot summer, the women of the Mughal royal family would stay in the basement of the Diwan-i-Aam to escape the heat.





Painted by Ghulam Ali Khan between 1852 and 1854.

6. Khas Mahal (emperor's private palace)

To the north of the Rang Mahal is the Khass Mahal, which was the sleeping quarters of the Mughal emperor. The Rang Mahal was built of white marble. Its walls were originally inlaid with various jewels and the ceiling was gilded, but these features have not been preserved.







Painted by Sir Thomas Theophilus Metcalfe in 1843.

The last Mughal emperor, Bahadur Shah II, ascends the throne in the Khas Mahal, painted by Ghulam Ali Khan between 1837 and 1838.



7. Hall of Private Audience (Diwan-i-Khas)

North of the Khas Mahal is the Hall of Private Audience (Diwan-i-Khas), where the Mughal emperor met with courtiers and state guests. The Hall of Private Audience (Diwan-i-Khas) means "private reception room." It is built of white marble and was once inlaid with various jewels, featuring the exquisite Peacock Throne in the center. The hall once had a ceiling inlaid with gold and silver, but these were later removed. The current ceiling was installed in 1911.

Outside the hall, there used to be red awnings, and the arches below were inscribed with verses by the famous Sufi master Amir Khusrow:

If there is a paradise on earth,

It is this, it is this, it is this.





Painted by Ghulam 'Ali Khan in 1817.









Painted by Ghulam Ali Khan between 1852 and 1854.



The Peacock Throne in 1850.

8. Hammam-e-Lal Qila (bathhouse)

North of the Hall of Private Audience (Diwan-i-Khas) is the Red Fort Bathhouse (Hammam-e-Lal Qila), which was used by the Mughal royal family. The Red Fort Bathhouse (Hammam-e-Lal Qila) is a Turkish-style bath consisting of three sections: a children's bath, a dressing room, and a hot bath. Legend has it that the water flowing from the taps at that time was mixed with rose perfume.





Painted by Ghulam Ali Khan between 1852 and 1854.

9. Pearl Mosque (Moti Masjid)

The Pearl Mosque (Moti Masjid) is west of the bathhouse. It was built by the sixth Mughal emperor, Aurangzeb, between 1659 and 1660 for his second wife, Nawab Bai. Pearl (Moti) means "pearl." It is built of white marble, and its three domes were originally covered with gilded copper plates, which were lost after 1857.









Painted by Ghulam Ali Khan between 1852 and 1854.



Painted by Vasily Vereshchagin in the late 1880s.

10. King's Tower (Shah Burj)

The northernmost part of the harem is a white marble pavilion built during the Aurangzeb period. Behind the pavilion is the Shahi Burj, the northeast corner tower of the Red Fort, which means "Imperial Tower." Inside the tower is a hydraulic system that carries water from outside the Red Fort into its gardens and buildings.







Painted by Sir Thomas Metcalfe in 1843.

11. Life-Giving Garden (Hayat Bakhsh Bagh)

In the northwest part of the harem is the royal water garden Hayat Bakhsh Bagh, which means 'Life-Giving Garden'. Most of the garden's buildings were destroyed after 1857, and only three survive today.

At the center of the garden is the red sandstone building Zafar Mahal, built in 1842 by the last Mughal emperor, Bahadur Shah II. The building sits in a pool and was originally connected to the shore by a red sandstone bridge, but it was destroyed after 1857. After 1857, the British army used this area as a swimming pool.











Painted by Ghulam Ali Khan between 1852 and 1854.

To the north and south of the garden are two white marble pavilions called Sawan and Bhadon, named after the months of July and August in the Indian rainy season, as the ladies of the Mughal palace loved to visit the garden during these two months. The pavilions have wall niches that held vases with golden flowers during the day and small oil lamps at night.





To the west of Hayat Bakhsh Bagh, there was originally another water garden called Mehtab Bagh, meaning 'Moon Garden,' but after 1857, the site was turned into a British military barracks, and now only ruins remain.



2. Jama Mosque: 1650-1656

The Jama Masjid mosque is located southwest of the Red Fort; it was built between 1650 and 1656 by order of Shah Jahan and served as the royal mosque of the Mughal Empire.

The mosque was built by more than 5,000 workers under the leadership of Shah Jahan's vizier (wazir) Saadullah Khan, costing over 1 million rupees. The mosque stands on a platform more than 9 meters above the ground and is made of red sandstone and marble, featuring a main hall connected by colonnades, two 40-meter-high minarets, and three gates. The east gate was reserved for the Mughal royal family and had a path that connected directly to the Delhi Gate of the Red Fort.

After 1857, the British seized the Jama Masjid mosque and stationed troops inside. They originally wanted to demolish the mosque, but they failed due to strong opposition, though the madrasa (Islamic school) on the south side of the mosque was destroyed as a result.















The mihrab in the center of the main hall indicates the direction of prayer toward Mecca:





Besides the main mihrab in the center, there is a smaller mihrab on each side.



During Jumu'ah, the imam stands on this stone platform to deliver the khutbah.



There is a tower at each of the four corners of the colonnade.







The east gate is the main entrance:





South Gate



North Gate



The water pool in the courtyard for wudu:





Jama means Jumu'ah, which refers to the Friday congregational prayer. The Jumu'ah mosque is usually the largest in the community, and the most important weekly prayer is held here every Friday at noon. I was lucky enough to attend a Friday Jumu'ah prayer at the Jama Mosque.

On the morning of Jumu'ah, more prayer rugs were already laid out in the courtyard.



People are performing wudu for the Jumu'ah prayer:



More and more people are arriving.







The imam leading the prayer climbs onto the stone platform.



After the prayer, people take photos:





3. Fatehpuri Mosque: 1650

Fatehpuri Mosque is located at the western end of Chandni Chowk, the main east-west road in Shahjahanabad. It was built in 1650 under the direction of Fatehpuri Begum, the wife of Shah Jahan. The mosque is in the classic Mughal style, built with red sandstone, featuring minarets on both sides and a main prayer hall in the middle. The main hall has seven arched bays, and the central iwan arch is topped with a Mughal-style dome.

















4. Golden Mosque (Sunehri Masjid): 1751

Sunehri Mosque is located south of the Red Fort. It was built in 1751 by Qudsia Begum, the wife of the twelfth Mughal Emperor, Muhammad Shah. After Muhammad Shah died, Qudsia Begum's son, Ahmad Shah Bahadur, succeeded to the throne, making Qudsia Begum the de facto ruler of the Mughal Empire between 1748 and 1754.

During her rule, Qudsia Begum built a series of structures in Delhi, and the Sunehri Mosque is the most understated in its architectural style. The mosque's dome was originally copper-plated, but during renovations in 1852, sandstone replaced the damaged copper plates.













5. Great Mosque (Kalan Masjid): 1387

Kalan Mosque is one of the very few mosques in Shahjahanabad that existed before the city was built. It was constructed in 1387 by Khan-i-Jahan Maqbul, the vizier of Sultan Feroz Shah Tughlaq (reigned 1351-1388) of the Delhi Sultanate's Tughlaq dynasty. It is believed to have been built to commemorate a Sufi saint.

The mosque has been in continuous use, so the interior has changed significantly.









6. Hauzwali Mosque: 15th century

Hauzwali Mosque is another mosque that existed before the city of Shahjahanabad was built. Because the ground level has changed so much over time, the bottom half of the mosque is now underground, leaving only the top parts of the arches and the mihrab visible.





Collapse Read »

Halal Food Guide Urumqi: Hui Muslim Home Cooking and 15 Traditional Dishes (Part 1)

Reposted from the web

Summary: Urumqi Hui Muslim Home Cooking: 15 Halal Dishes is presented here as a firsthand travel account in clear English, beginning with this scene: My mother-in-law came to Beijing in March and made us 15 Urumqi Hui Muslim dishes: big plate chicken with belt noodles (dapanji pidaimian), lamb hand-torn noodle soup (yangrou jiupianzi), Xinjiang meatball soup. The account keeps its focus on Urumqi Halal Food, Hui Muslim Food, Xinjiang Travel while preserving the names, places, food, and historical details from the Chinese source.

My mother-in-law came to Beijing in March and made us 15 Urumqi Hui Muslim dishes: big plate chicken with belt noodles (dapanji pidaimian), lamb hand-torn noodle soup (yangrou jiupianzi), Xinjiang meatball soup (xinjiang wanzitang), dry-mixed noodles with lamb bean paste (yangrou zhajiang ganbanmian), lamb sour soup wontons (yangrou suantang huntun), Jingzhe oil tea eggs (jingzhe youcha dan), thin-skinned buns (baopi baozi), lamb vermicelli soup (yangrou fentang), cold-dressed chicken (liangban ji), diced stir-fried noodles (dingding chaomian), sour soup noodles with minced meat (suantang saozi mian), fragrant bean flower rolls (xiangdou huajuan), plate noodles (panzi mian), flavored fried starch jelly (fengwei zha menzi), and lamb and celery dumplings (yangrou qincai jiaozi). Since the official account can only insert 10 video channel clips, I will share the first 8 this time.

1. Big plate chicken with belt noodles (dapanji pidaimian)

My mother-in-law brought free-range chicken all the way from Urumqi. First, stir-fry the chicken with plenty of oil. Add chicken pieces, dried chili skins (lapizi), and ginger slices to the pot. Then add salt, Sichuan peppercorn powder, black pepper powder, tomato paste, bean paste, green onions, and garlic. Stir-fry until the blood is gone, then add soy sauce. Next, stew the chicken in a pressure cooker, adding water, the chicken, and potato chunks. After opening the pot, take out the potatoes, then add green onions, garlic, and vinegar.

Once finished, stretch the belt noodles; they taste best soaked in the big plate chicken broth.







2. Lamb hand-torn noodle soup (yangrou jiupianzi)

First, stir-fry lamb slices with tomatoes (yangshizi), green onions, and garlic. Add soy sauce and stir-fried potato slices, then add water. Stretch the dough and tear off small pieces into the pot. Finally, add black pepper powder and cilantro, and finish with a splash of vinegar.







3. Xinjiang meatball soup (xinjiang wanzitang)

For the Iftar meal, my mother-in-law made this Xinjiang specialty meatball soup using meat ground fresh at the Ma family shop in Douban Alley. The secret to the fried meatballs is pouring hot oil over the black pepper powder while mixing the filling. The best base for the meatball soup is broth made from beef marrow bones. You can add side dishes like spinach, king oyster mushrooms, tofu, carrots, or wood ear mushrooms.















4. Dry-mixed noodles with lamb bean paste (yangrou zhajiang ganbanmian)

Zainab said Urumqi has its own local version of bean paste noodles. I had never noticed it before and was very curious, so I finally got to eat it this time. These are hand-rolled cut noodles; our cutting board is still not quite big enough. Besides lamb, the bean paste sauce includes potatoes, carrots, and celery. It uses Pixian bean paste, so the flavor is completely different from Beijing-style bean paste noodles.

















5. Lamb sour soup wontons (yangrou suantang huntun)

I especially love the stewed lamb sour soup wontons (hong dong) made by Xinjiang Hui Muslims. After the lamb is stewed, add tomatoes, spinach, scallions, and cilantro. The wontons have the classic lamb and onion (piyazi) filling.













6. Jingzhe oil tea eggs (jingzhe youcha dan)

March 5th is the Awakening of Insects (Jingzhe), when all things come back to life. In the morning, we ate this seasonal Xinjiang Hui Muslim delicacy, Jingzhe oil tea eggs. Stir-fry eggs with dried fruits like raisins and walnut kernels, then pour in brewed brick tea and add rock sugar. Traditional oil tea with egg (youcha dan) must be stir-fried with mutton fat, but we use olive oil.













7. Thin-skinned steamed buns (baopi baozi)

Thin-skinned steamed buns (manti) filled with mutton and onions. Manti is a classic Silk Road snack. It spread to Central and West Asia with Turkic soldiers during the Mongol conquests and was later spread further by the Ottoman Empire. The word manti comes from mantou. Even today, the Wu dialect uses mantou to refer to meat-filled flour dishes. In 1330, the first year of the Zhishun era of the Yuan Dynasty, the imperial physician Hu Sihui wrote the Principles of Correct Diet (Yinshan Zhengyao). It records many ways to make mantou, all using mutton, mutton fat, green onions, dried tangerine peel, and salt for the filling. It even mentions the term thin-skinned mantou.











8. Mutton noodle soup (yangrou fentang)

This is the festive noodle soup made during the Mawlid (Zhuo Bailati). First, braise the mutton, then stir the pea starch and let it sit overnight before cutting it into starch blocks. Next, make a topping with cabbage, small radishes, mutton slices, and tomatoes. When you eat it, soak some fried dough (youxiang) in the soup.

















Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: Urumqi Hui Muslim Home Cooking: 15 Halal Dishes is presented here as a firsthand travel account in clear English, beginning with this scene: My mother-in-law came to Beijing in March and made us 15 Urumqi Hui Muslim dishes: big plate chicken with belt noodles (dapanji pidaimian), lamb hand-torn noodle soup (yangrou jiupianzi), Xinjiang meatball soup. The account keeps its focus on Urumqi Halal Food, Hui Muslim Food, Xinjiang Travel while preserving the names, places, food, and historical details from the Chinese source.

My mother-in-law came to Beijing in March and made us 15 Urumqi Hui Muslim dishes: big plate chicken with belt noodles (dapanji pidaimian), lamb hand-torn noodle soup (yangrou jiupianzi), Xinjiang meatball soup (xinjiang wanzitang), dry-mixed noodles with lamb bean paste (yangrou zhajiang ganbanmian), lamb sour soup wontons (yangrou suantang huntun), Jingzhe oil tea eggs (jingzhe youcha dan), thin-skinned buns (baopi baozi), lamb vermicelli soup (yangrou fentang), cold-dressed chicken (liangban ji), diced stir-fried noodles (dingding chaomian), sour soup noodles with minced meat (suantang saozi mian), fragrant bean flower rolls (xiangdou huajuan), plate noodles (panzi mian), flavored fried starch jelly (fengwei zha menzi), and lamb and celery dumplings (yangrou qincai jiaozi). Since the official account can only insert 10 video channel clips, I will share the first 8 this time.

1. Big plate chicken with belt noodles (dapanji pidaimian)

My mother-in-law brought free-range chicken all the way from Urumqi. First, stir-fry the chicken with plenty of oil. Add chicken pieces, dried chili skins (lapizi), and ginger slices to the pot. Then add salt, Sichuan peppercorn powder, black pepper powder, tomato paste, bean paste, green onions, and garlic. Stir-fry until the blood is gone, then add soy sauce. Next, stew the chicken in a pressure cooker, adding water, the chicken, and potato chunks. After opening the pot, take out the potatoes, then add green onions, garlic, and vinegar.

Once finished, stretch the belt noodles; they taste best soaked in the big plate chicken broth.







2. Lamb hand-torn noodle soup (yangrou jiupianzi)

First, stir-fry lamb slices with tomatoes (yangshizi), green onions, and garlic. Add soy sauce and stir-fried potato slices, then add water. Stretch the dough and tear off small pieces into the pot. Finally, add black pepper powder and cilantro, and finish with a splash of vinegar.







3. Xinjiang meatball soup (xinjiang wanzitang)

For the Iftar meal, my mother-in-law made this Xinjiang specialty meatball soup using meat ground fresh at the Ma family shop in Douban Alley. The secret to the fried meatballs is pouring hot oil over the black pepper powder while mixing the filling. The best base for the meatball soup is broth made from beef marrow bones. You can add side dishes like spinach, king oyster mushrooms, tofu, carrots, or wood ear mushrooms.















4. Dry-mixed noodles with lamb bean paste (yangrou zhajiang ganbanmian)

Zainab said Urumqi has its own local version of bean paste noodles. I had never noticed it before and was very curious, so I finally got to eat it this time. These are hand-rolled cut noodles; our cutting board is still not quite big enough. Besides lamb, the bean paste sauce includes potatoes, carrots, and celery. It uses Pixian bean paste, so the flavor is completely different from Beijing-style bean paste noodles.

















5. Lamb sour soup wontons (yangrou suantang huntun)

I especially love the stewed lamb sour soup wontons (hong dong) made by Xinjiang Hui Muslims. After the lamb is stewed, add tomatoes, spinach, scallions, and cilantro. The wontons have the classic lamb and onion (piyazi) filling.













6. Jingzhe oil tea eggs (jingzhe youcha dan)

March 5th is the Awakening of Insects (Jingzhe), when all things come back to life. In the morning, we ate this seasonal Xinjiang Hui Muslim delicacy, Jingzhe oil tea eggs. Stir-fry eggs with dried fruits like raisins and walnut kernels, then pour in brewed brick tea and add rock sugar. Traditional oil tea with egg (youcha dan) must be stir-fried with mutton fat, but we use olive oil.













7. Thin-skinned steamed buns (baopi baozi)

Thin-skinned steamed buns (manti) filled with mutton and onions. Manti is a classic Silk Road snack. It spread to Central and West Asia with Turkic soldiers during the Mongol conquests and was later spread further by the Ottoman Empire. The word manti comes from mantou. Even today, the Wu dialect uses mantou to refer to meat-filled flour dishes. In 1330, the first year of the Zhishun era of the Yuan Dynasty, the imperial physician Hu Sihui wrote the Principles of Correct Diet (Yinshan Zhengyao). It records many ways to make mantou, all using mutton, mutton fat, green onions, dried tangerine peel, and salt for the filling. It even mentions the term thin-skinned mantou.











8. Mutton noodle soup (yangrou fentang)

This is the festive noodle soup made during the Mawlid (Zhuo Bailati). First, braise the mutton, then stir the pea starch and let it sit overnight before cutting it into starch blocks. Next, make a topping with cabbage, small radishes, mutton slices, and tomatoes. When you eat it, soak some fried dough (youxiang) in the soup.

















Collapse Read »

Muslim Travel Guide Beijing Winter Diary: Mosques, Halal Food and Hui Muslim Heritage (Part 1)

Reposted from the web

Summary: Beijing Winter Diary — Mosques, Halal Food and Muslim Heritage is presented here as a firsthand travel account in clear English, beginning with this scene: Everything I ate in Beijing between December 2021 and February 2022, starting with the resumption of Jumu'ah prayers in Beijing and ending with the Night Journey (Isra and Mi'raj) dinner. The account keeps its focus on Beijing Mosques, Halal Food, Muslim Heritage while preserving the names, places, food, and historical details from the Chinese source.

Everything I ate in Beijing between December 2021 and February 2022, starting with the resumption of Jumu'ah prayers in Beijing and ending with the Night Journey (Isra and Mi'raj) dinner. Thinking about winter during the summer, it feels so good to dine in at restaurants.

December 3, Xinyuezhai at Douban Hutong.

Alhamdulillah, the mosques in Beijing have finally opened. I attended Jumu'ah at Nandouyacai Mosque, then went to the nearby Xinyuezhai for beef noodles and a small bowl of beef.











December 4, clear-stewed lamb spine (yangxiezi).

I bought some lamb spine at the entrance of the Chaoyangmen Life Supermarket and made clear-stewed lamb spine at home.









You can add green beans and mushrooms to the leftover clear-stewed lamb spine.



December 9, Gulou Chimian at Jinbao Street.

After work, I went to Gulou Chimian on Jinbao Street to have my favorite braised lamb and Sichuan peppercorn noodle soup (huajiao cuamian). I never get tired of it, and even though they have so many kinds of noodles, I rarely try anything else. I also had the newly added deep-fried crispy pork (xiaosurou), which was quite fragrant and worth ordering again.







December 10, Longxianghui's flatbread stew (hubo).

The Gansu Pingliang restaurant Longxianghui on Dongsi North Street added flatbread stew, meat sauce noodles (saozimian), and cold noodles to their menu. I tried the flatbread stew last night, and it really suits my taste. Pingliang flatbread stew is the opposite of lamb pita soup (yangrou paomo). For lamb pita soup, you have to eat the semi-leavened bread quickly after soaking it, but for flatbread stew, the longer the fried dough sticks (youbangzi) soak, the better they taste.









December 17, home-cooked meal.

I made braised pomfret with diced potatoes, carrots, and cucumbers. Zainabu made braised eggplant with green beans and onions (piyanzi) with wood ear mushrooms. Zainabu's braised eggplant and green beans capture the essence of our Beijing home cooking, and I love it so much.







December 18, Urumqi Office in Beijing.

After visiting the Xinqiao Market at noon, I went to the Urumqi Office in Beijing at Chegongzhuang. I realized I hadn't been there in seven years. This was the Xinjiang restaurant I visited most when I was a kid. Most of my childhood memories of Xinjiang food come from here. I definitely didn't expect back then that I would eventually become a son-in-law from Urumqi, haha.

I ordered horse sausage (machangzi) and vegetable pilaf (zhuafan) to make my own horse sausage pilaf. The pilaf was oily and delicious, but the horse sausage wasn't oily enough and felt a bit dry. The grilled meat (kaorou) tasted great. The baked buns (kaobaozi) weren't very crispy, and I finished by ordering a mixed vegetable stew (huicai).















December 26, chain restaurant Quanzhou Beef House Niujiufen.

Passing through Xihongmen in Daxing, I ate at the chain restaurant Quanzhou Beef House (Niujiufen) inside the Livat shopping center. The famous Xue Family (Xuejia), known as the number one hot pot in southern Beijing from the Hui Muslim village of Xueying in Daxing, has opened three halal restaurants in Livat: Speed Pizza, Niujiufen, and Lou Sanshao. They are all halal, though you cannot tell from the outside.

I ate Quanzhou-style beef ribs, beef soup, abalone sauce vermicelli (mianxian), and drank seaweed jelly (shihuagao) made from agar-agar. Zainab really likes the taste of the Quanzhou-style soy-braised beef; it is not greasy and a little sweet.



















December 27, Muyixuan Lamb Spine Hot Pot.

In the evening, I ate lamb spine hot pot at Muyixuan in Ping'anli.





January 9, Ali Restaurant on Shenlu Street.

Ali Restaurant on Shenlu Street uses pilaf (zhuafan) inside their rice sausages. It is the most authentic I have had in Beijing, and the other dishes were quite good too. The meat in the pilaf was very fragrant, though the liver slices were a bit tough.















Account.

January 10, Syrian restaurant One Thousand and One Nights.

It is my second wedding anniversary with Zainab, so we celebrated at One Thousand and One Nights after work. One Thousand and One Nights is a long-standing Arabic restaurant in Beijing. The owner is Syrian, and the shop opened in 2004, making it 17 years old now. When I was in middle school, I would pass by their place every time I went home from Chaoyang Park. Back then, they were the symbol of a high-end restaurant in my mind, perfectly matching the vibe of the embassy district. At that time, the major shopping malls in Sanlitun had not been built yet, so their place was really eye-catching. In the blink of an eye, more than ten years have passed, and I can finally afford to eat at One Thousand and One Nights.

To this day, One Thousand and One Nights remains the highest-class, most diverse, and best-tasting Arabic restaurant in Beijing. We ordered seafood soup, Kofta meatball soup, pine nut hummus, mozzarella cheese salad, Kashkash kebab, lamb mandi rice in a tagine, and cauliflower with eggplant. Except for the cauliflower and eggplant being a bit oily, everything else was delicious. Their lamb mandi rice is definitely the best I have had in Beijing. The lamb is fresh and tender, and the rice is filled with saffron, raisins, cashews, and various spices, making it smell amazing. The Kashkash kebab is made with parsley, green and red peppers, and garlic, which I think is a Syrian specialty.

















January 14, Madeburg inside Chaoyangmen.

My second visit to Madeburg inside Chaoyangmen; I ordered a whole chicken, fries, and milk tea. I have fallen in love with their freshly made whole chicken. It is much better than burgers, haha. Putting on gloves and tearing it apart to eat is very satisfying. Freshly fried french fries are, of course, both fragrant and have a great texture. Boss Zhang said he found that pizza baked a little longer tastes even better than the standard way, so he shared one with me. I found that pizza baked a bit longer has a scent like naan bread and is both crispy and crunchy, haha.

Before leaving, I received a distributed Islamic calendar from Maidebao. When I got home, I took down the one from last year issued by the Grace Bookstore on Niujie Street and put up the new one. I feel that changing the Islamic calendar every year gives a special sense of ritual that a year has passed. The second month is Isra and Mi'raj, the third is Bara'at, the fourth is the start of Ramadan and Laylat al-Qadr, the fifth is Eid al-Fitr, the seventh is Arafah, Eid al-Adha, and the Islamic New Year, the eighth is Ashura, and the tenth is Mawlid. A new year begins just like that.











January 15, Indian food Mirch Masala.

I ate Indian food at Mirch Masala on Xiushui Street; the shop name 'mirch' means chili pepper. The restaurant is quite small, with two Indian guys, one as the chef and one as the waiter. It is not big but the food is delicious, reminding me of the South Asian eateries found everywhere in Dubai.

We ordered lamb korma curry, chicken biryani rice, masala tea, kadhai paneer (curry tofu), and their homemade yogurt. Putting the curry, rice, and yogurt on a plate and eating them together is especially fragrant. Finally, we packed the korma curry to take home, planning to add a little bit when we stir-fry dishes over the next few days.

Korma is a type of curry stewed with coconut milk or yogurt. The etymology of 'korma' comes from 'Qawirma' in Turkic, which originally meant to fry, but after evolving into the Urdu word 'Qormā', the meaning changed to stew. Korma is a classic Mughal court dish that started in the 16th century. People say Shah Jahan and his guests ate Korma at the banquet for the completion of the Taj Mahal.

Biryani is a Persian loanword in Urdu, also likely originating from the Mughal court. People say the Mughal imperial chefs created it by combining Indian spicy rice with Persian pilaf. In Mughal dynasty documents, the terms 'biryanis' and 'Pulao' (pilaf) appeared separately, and at that time, the two could be used interchangeably. It is generally believed that biryani is mixed with more spices than pilaf and has a stronger curry flavor.

The recipe for masala tea is not fixed, but it basically includes black tea, milk, sugar, cardamom, black pepper, and ginger. Other spices include cinnamon, star anise, fennel seeds, cloves, and so on.

Kadhai comes from 'Kataha' in the ancient Indian Prakrit dialect, meaning iron pot, which was even mentioned in the Ramayana. This cooking method is relatively popular in northern South Asia and Afghanistan.















January 16, Kashgar Mahmuti Restaurant.

In the afternoon, I went to the Kashgar Mahmuti Restaurant near Baiyun Temple. It is a restaurant that opened in 2005, yet this was my first time eating there. I used to stop at Jiasan and never walked any further. Who knew there was such a restaurant right next to Jiasan!

First, look at the shop name, then look at the freshly baked naan at the entrance, and then look at the interior decoration; it is absolutely like arriving in Erdaoqiao in a second. The staff are all Uyghurs, and when we walked in, a large Uyghur family was celebrating a birthday. We ordered yogurt, roasted lamb chops, lamb liver, lamb skewers (chuanr), Kashgar stew (Kashi duncai), and guirou langman. We wanted to order pigeon soup, but the waiter heard dough drop soup (gedatang) instead. Later, he told us they were out of pigeon soup and swapped it for lamb skewers.

Their yogurt is the most authentic thing on the menu! I have never had such authentic Xinjiang yogurt in Beijing. This homemade yogurt is twenty times better than the packaged Xinjiang brands in supermarket freezers, ten times better than the yogurt at chain restaurants like Bayi Laoye, and five times better than the yogurt at Uyghur spots like Baizuan. I would even say that many restaurants in Urumqi don't have yogurt as good as theirs.

The roasted meat is very fragrant and tender, and the liver is better than the one at Ali on Shenlu Street. The lamb chops are a bit tough, but some people love them that way. The meat in the guirou langman is very authentic; it is the kind that is a bit hard after being deep-fried. The noodles (langman) are a bit soft and average, not as good as the ones at Baizuan. The meat in the stew is a bit hard, maybe because they used air-dried meat, so we packed it to go to stew it again at home. Also, they didn't have the meat jelly (jiasha) listed on the menu and used fried tofu puffs instead, but the flavor was still very authentic.

Overall, I think this place is top-tier among Uyghur restaurants in Beijing, right up there with Ali and Baizuan. Next time I want to try their pilaf (zhuafan) to see how it tastes.

















January 19, Kuqa Uyghur Restaurant, Crescent Moon (Wanwan Yueliang)

I ate at the Kuqa Uyghur Restaurant, Crescent Moon, on Dongsi Liutiao before seeing a play in the evening. This is truly the oldest Uyghur restaurant in Dongsi; I have been eating here for over a decade, ever since I was in middle school. To be honest, their quality isn't as good as what I've had in Xinjiang. In Beijing, they only rank as mid-tier, behind Baizuan, Ali, and Maihemuti.

This time I ordered my usuals: kebabs (kawapu), pilaf (poluo), and stew (huo'erdun). The roasted meat is great, no complaints there. The rice in the pilaf is fine, but their minced meat has always been too dry. The stew is the opposite; the potatoes and carrots are delicious, but the lamb chops are too tough and have very little lean meat.

In short, if I want to satisfy my longing for Xinjiang, I would definitely choose Ali or Baizuan first. But if I am in the Dongsi area for an exhibition or a play, grabbing a meal at Crescent Moon is fine too.













January 21, Yangfang Shengli Hot Pot, Liujiayao branch

It rarely snows, so tonight we had a hot pot at Yangfang Shengli Shuanrou in Liujiayao, which opened in 2021! Although Yangfang Shengli Shuanrou is very famous, this was my first time eating there. I used to think they were mostly in the north, so I was surprised to see one open in the south.

To give a quick introduction, the main branch of Yangfang Shengli Shuanrou is located in a place called Xiguanshi. Hui Muslims from Xiguanshi followed Prince Yan north to Beijing in the early Ming Dynasty. Because they lived near the main trade route from Beijing to Zhangjiakou and were skilled in martial arts, many Xiguanshi Hui Muslims opened security escort agencies outside Qianmen during the Qing Dynasty. They specialized in protecting goods across the five northwestern provinces, mainly serving wealthy Shanxi merchants. People say Li Wuye, the master of the magic pellet in the novel 'Shi Gong An', was a Hui Muslim from Xiguanshi. The depictions of Li Guoliang, the 'Little Hero of the Golden Bow', and the Dongguangyu Escort Agency outside Qianmen in the novel 'Yongzheng Jianxia Tu' vividly show the life of the Xiguanshi Hui Muslim escort agencies during the Qing Dynasty. Because it sits on the essential path to the Mongolian grasslands, the mutton hot pot here is also very famous.

I feel that the Yangfang Shengli Shuanrou in Liujiayao is excellent in terms of environment, service, meat quality, and vegetable freshness. Our family was very satisfied, and we will come here often for gatherings. We ordered their whole lamb combo (lamb brain, 'half-side cloud' flank, lamb tendon, lamb spine, lamb 'emperor' cut, lamb rib, and lamb shoulder), a vegetable platter, crunchy tripe mushrooms, and frozen tofu. First, they opened a bottle of Nongfu Spring water and poured it into the pot, which felt very sincere, haha. They use 6-8 month old black-headed white lambs from Xilingol. The meat is truly fresh, and I personally feel the quality is better than the hot pot places I usually visit near Dongsi (I won't name them). Their pickled garlic (tangsuan) is also homemade, and the flavor is noticeably richer than the store-bought garlic at most hot pot restaurants.

Also, even though the place was very noisy during the dinner rush, the servers came immediately whenever we called. They never ignored us, so it feels like they really know how to run a business.



















January 27, Qiqihar BBQ at Toupiqi.

In the evening, we went to Toupiqi BBQ in the Weilaiyu area of Changying. It is a chain of Qiqihar-style BBQ, and this Changying branch is halal. We ordered freshly sliced family-style marinated meat, beef tongue, pickled cabbage (suancai), Dandong yellow clams, Jixi cold noodles (lengmian), and grilled vegetables. At the front desk, we helped ourselves to shredded tofu, peanuts, Korean kimchi, cantaloupe, oranges, and pumpkin porridge. The dipping sauces were also quite varied.

I really liked their yellow clams. When the cold noodles arrived, they were clumped together, likely because they had just come out of the fridge, but the taste was quite good. The marinated meat was okay, but the beef tongue felt a bit tough and the texture wasn't great. Overall, their food is decent, but I personally think their BBQ isn't as good as Qingu (though Qingu's fried chicken isn't great), I still prefer Qingu's BBQ. Speaking of which, Beijing now has Heilongjiang iron pot stew (Hao Shu) and BBQ, we are just missing a traditional Heilongjiang home-style restaurant! There used to be a Heilongjiang restaurant in Xihongmen called Xingyuege. I had their sweet and sour pork (guobaorou) and steamed dumplings (shaomai) there, but unfortunately, they have closed down.



















January 29, Uyghur restaurant Xiapuna.

After ice skating in the afternoon, I ate stir-fried lamb liver, braised lamb chops with green beans, and home-style mixed noodles (banmian) at the Uyghur restaurant Xiapuna on Shenlu Street. We arrived at Xinjiang lunch time, and sure enough, all the diners in the room were Uyghur, haha.

Their stir-fried lamb liver is super delicious and incredibly tender. It is better than any grilled liver I have had at restaurants in Beijing, and after eating it, I do not even want to eat grilled liver anymore. The braised lamb chops with green beans (jiangdou) are also great. The beans are actually yardlong beans, and they are crispy and fragrant after being fried. The lamb must be from Xinjiang because it lacks the gamey smell found in Beijing. The flatbread (nang) is an oily version that was fried again, and soaking it in the lamb chop sauce is so appetizing.

The meat in the home-style mixed noodles is delicious, but they give you too little. The overall flavor is a bit bland, and the noodles are so thin that I first thought they were dried noodles (guamian). But they taste chewy, so they must be hand-pulled.













January 31, New Year's Eve dinner.

A dish I made with simple stewed meat.





Stewed meat over rice.



Everyone worked together to knead the dough and mix the filling.











February 1, eating dumplings (jiaozi).

We ate the dumplings as we wrapped them, including lamb with lentils, beef with fennel, and beef with celery, using both Urumqi and Beijing wrapping styles. They were wrapped perfectly and tasted super delicious. Then we opened the Laba garlic (labasuan) that we pickled on Laba Festival, which also turned out great and smelled amazing. We used the leftover dough after finishing the filling to make hand-cut noodles.



















Then we had pan-fried dumplings (jianjiao) as well.
Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: Beijing Winter Diary — Mosques, Halal Food and Muslim Heritage is presented here as a firsthand travel account in clear English, beginning with this scene: Everything I ate in Beijing between December 2021 and February 2022, starting with the resumption of Jumu'ah prayers in Beijing and ending with the Night Journey (Isra and Mi'raj) dinner. The account keeps its focus on Beijing Mosques, Halal Food, Muslim Heritage while preserving the names, places, food, and historical details from the Chinese source.

Everything I ate in Beijing between December 2021 and February 2022, starting with the resumption of Jumu'ah prayers in Beijing and ending with the Night Journey (Isra and Mi'raj) dinner. Thinking about winter during the summer, it feels so good to dine in at restaurants.

December 3, Xinyuezhai at Douban Hutong.

Alhamdulillah, the mosques in Beijing have finally opened. I attended Jumu'ah at Nandouyacai Mosque, then went to the nearby Xinyuezhai for beef noodles and a small bowl of beef.











December 4, clear-stewed lamb spine (yangxiezi).

I bought some lamb spine at the entrance of the Chaoyangmen Life Supermarket and made clear-stewed lamb spine at home.









You can add green beans and mushrooms to the leftover clear-stewed lamb spine.



December 9, Gulou Chimian at Jinbao Street.

After work, I went to Gulou Chimian on Jinbao Street to have my favorite braised lamb and Sichuan peppercorn noodle soup (huajiao cuamian). I never get tired of it, and even though they have so many kinds of noodles, I rarely try anything else. I also had the newly added deep-fried crispy pork (xiaosurou), which was quite fragrant and worth ordering again.







December 10, Longxianghui's flatbread stew (hubo).

The Gansu Pingliang restaurant Longxianghui on Dongsi North Street added flatbread stew, meat sauce noodles (saozimian), and cold noodles to their menu. I tried the flatbread stew last night, and it really suits my taste. Pingliang flatbread stew is the opposite of lamb pita soup (yangrou paomo). For lamb pita soup, you have to eat the semi-leavened bread quickly after soaking it, but for flatbread stew, the longer the fried dough sticks (youbangzi) soak, the better they taste.









December 17, home-cooked meal.

I made braised pomfret with diced potatoes, carrots, and cucumbers. Zainabu made braised eggplant with green beans and onions (piyanzi) with wood ear mushrooms. Zainabu's braised eggplant and green beans capture the essence of our Beijing home cooking, and I love it so much.







December 18, Urumqi Office in Beijing.

After visiting the Xinqiao Market at noon, I went to the Urumqi Office in Beijing at Chegongzhuang. I realized I hadn't been there in seven years. This was the Xinjiang restaurant I visited most when I was a kid. Most of my childhood memories of Xinjiang food come from here. I definitely didn't expect back then that I would eventually become a son-in-law from Urumqi, haha.

I ordered horse sausage (machangzi) and vegetable pilaf (zhuafan) to make my own horse sausage pilaf. The pilaf was oily and delicious, but the horse sausage wasn't oily enough and felt a bit dry. The grilled meat (kaorou) tasted great. The baked buns (kaobaozi) weren't very crispy, and I finished by ordering a mixed vegetable stew (huicai).















December 26, chain restaurant Quanzhou Beef House Niujiufen.

Passing through Xihongmen in Daxing, I ate at the chain restaurant Quanzhou Beef House (Niujiufen) inside the Livat shopping center. The famous Xue Family (Xuejia), known as the number one hot pot in southern Beijing from the Hui Muslim village of Xueying in Daxing, has opened three halal restaurants in Livat: Speed Pizza, Niujiufen, and Lou Sanshao. They are all halal, though you cannot tell from the outside.

I ate Quanzhou-style beef ribs, beef soup, abalone sauce vermicelli (mianxian), and drank seaweed jelly (shihuagao) made from agar-agar. Zainab really likes the taste of the Quanzhou-style soy-braised beef; it is not greasy and a little sweet.



















December 27, Muyixuan Lamb Spine Hot Pot.

In the evening, I ate lamb spine hot pot at Muyixuan in Ping'anli.





January 9, Ali Restaurant on Shenlu Street.

Ali Restaurant on Shenlu Street uses pilaf (zhuafan) inside their rice sausages. It is the most authentic I have had in Beijing, and the other dishes were quite good too. The meat in the pilaf was very fragrant, though the liver slices were a bit tough.















Account.

January 10, Syrian restaurant One Thousand and One Nights.

It is my second wedding anniversary with Zainab, so we celebrated at One Thousand and One Nights after work. One Thousand and One Nights is a long-standing Arabic restaurant in Beijing. The owner is Syrian, and the shop opened in 2004, making it 17 years old now. When I was in middle school, I would pass by their place every time I went home from Chaoyang Park. Back then, they were the symbol of a high-end restaurant in my mind, perfectly matching the vibe of the embassy district. At that time, the major shopping malls in Sanlitun had not been built yet, so their place was really eye-catching. In the blink of an eye, more than ten years have passed, and I can finally afford to eat at One Thousand and One Nights.

To this day, One Thousand and One Nights remains the highest-class, most diverse, and best-tasting Arabic restaurant in Beijing. We ordered seafood soup, Kofta meatball soup, pine nut hummus, mozzarella cheese salad, Kashkash kebab, lamb mandi rice in a tagine, and cauliflower with eggplant. Except for the cauliflower and eggplant being a bit oily, everything else was delicious. Their lamb mandi rice is definitely the best I have had in Beijing. The lamb is fresh and tender, and the rice is filled with saffron, raisins, cashews, and various spices, making it smell amazing. The Kashkash kebab is made with parsley, green and red peppers, and garlic, which I think is a Syrian specialty.

















January 14, Madeburg inside Chaoyangmen.

My second visit to Madeburg inside Chaoyangmen; I ordered a whole chicken, fries, and milk tea. I have fallen in love with their freshly made whole chicken. It is much better than burgers, haha. Putting on gloves and tearing it apart to eat is very satisfying. Freshly fried french fries are, of course, both fragrant and have a great texture. Boss Zhang said he found that pizza baked a little longer tastes even better than the standard way, so he shared one with me. I found that pizza baked a bit longer has a scent like naan bread and is both crispy and crunchy, haha.

Before leaving, I received a distributed Islamic calendar from Maidebao. When I got home, I took down the one from last year issued by the Grace Bookstore on Niujie Street and put up the new one. I feel that changing the Islamic calendar every year gives a special sense of ritual that a year has passed. The second month is Isra and Mi'raj, the third is Bara'at, the fourth is the start of Ramadan and Laylat al-Qadr, the fifth is Eid al-Fitr, the seventh is Arafah, Eid al-Adha, and the Islamic New Year, the eighth is Ashura, and the tenth is Mawlid. A new year begins just like that.











January 15, Indian food Mirch Masala.

I ate Indian food at Mirch Masala on Xiushui Street; the shop name 'mirch' means chili pepper. The restaurant is quite small, with two Indian guys, one as the chef and one as the waiter. It is not big but the food is delicious, reminding me of the South Asian eateries found everywhere in Dubai.

We ordered lamb korma curry, chicken biryani rice, masala tea, kadhai paneer (curry tofu), and their homemade yogurt. Putting the curry, rice, and yogurt on a plate and eating them together is especially fragrant. Finally, we packed the korma curry to take home, planning to add a little bit when we stir-fry dishes over the next few days.

Korma is a type of curry stewed with coconut milk or yogurt. The etymology of 'korma' comes from 'Qawirma' in Turkic, which originally meant to fry, but after evolving into the Urdu word 'Qormā', the meaning changed to stew. Korma is a classic Mughal court dish that started in the 16th century. People say Shah Jahan and his guests ate Korma at the banquet for the completion of the Taj Mahal.

Biryani is a Persian loanword in Urdu, also likely originating from the Mughal court. People say the Mughal imperial chefs created it by combining Indian spicy rice with Persian pilaf. In Mughal dynasty documents, the terms 'biryanis' and 'Pulao' (pilaf) appeared separately, and at that time, the two could be used interchangeably. It is generally believed that biryani is mixed with more spices than pilaf and has a stronger curry flavor.

The recipe for masala tea is not fixed, but it basically includes black tea, milk, sugar, cardamom, black pepper, and ginger. Other spices include cinnamon, star anise, fennel seeds, cloves, and so on.

Kadhai comes from 'Kataha' in the ancient Indian Prakrit dialect, meaning iron pot, which was even mentioned in the Ramayana. This cooking method is relatively popular in northern South Asia and Afghanistan.















January 16, Kashgar Mahmuti Restaurant.

In the afternoon, I went to the Kashgar Mahmuti Restaurant near Baiyun Temple. It is a restaurant that opened in 2005, yet this was my first time eating there. I used to stop at Jiasan and never walked any further. Who knew there was such a restaurant right next to Jiasan!

First, look at the shop name, then look at the freshly baked naan at the entrance, and then look at the interior decoration; it is absolutely like arriving in Erdaoqiao in a second. The staff are all Uyghurs, and when we walked in, a large Uyghur family was celebrating a birthday. We ordered yogurt, roasted lamb chops, lamb liver, lamb skewers (chuanr), Kashgar stew (Kashi duncai), and guirou langman. We wanted to order pigeon soup, but the waiter heard dough drop soup (gedatang) instead. Later, he told us they were out of pigeon soup and swapped it for lamb skewers.

Their yogurt is the most authentic thing on the menu! I have never had such authentic Xinjiang yogurt in Beijing. This homemade yogurt is twenty times better than the packaged Xinjiang brands in supermarket freezers, ten times better than the yogurt at chain restaurants like Bayi Laoye, and five times better than the yogurt at Uyghur spots like Baizuan. I would even say that many restaurants in Urumqi don't have yogurt as good as theirs.

The roasted meat is very fragrant and tender, and the liver is better than the one at Ali on Shenlu Street. The lamb chops are a bit tough, but some people love them that way. The meat in the guirou langman is very authentic; it is the kind that is a bit hard after being deep-fried. The noodles (langman) are a bit soft and average, not as good as the ones at Baizuan. The meat in the stew is a bit hard, maybe because they used air-dried meat, so we packed it to go to stew it again at home. Also, they didn't have the meat jelly (jiasha) listed on the menu and used fried tofu puffs instead, but the flavor was still very authentic.

Overall, I think this place is top-tier among Uyghur restaurants in Beijing, right up there with Ali and Baizuan. Next time I want to try their pilaf (zhuafan) to see how it tastes.

















January 19, Kuqa Uyghur Restaurant, Crescent Moon (Wanwan Yueliang)

I ate at the Kuqa Uyghur Restaurant, Crescent Moon, on Dongsi Liutiao before seeing a play in the evening. This is truly the oldest Uyghur restaurant in Dongsi; I have been eating here for over a decade, ever since I was in middle school. To be honest, their quality isn't as good as what I've had in Xinjiang. In Beijing, they only rank as mid-tier, behind Baizuan, Ali, and Maihemuti.

This time I ordered my usuals: kebabs (kawapu), pilaf (poluo), and stew (huo'erdun). The roasted meat is great, no complaints there. The rice in the pilaf is fine, but their minced meat has always been too dry. The stew is the opposite; the potatoes and carrots are delicious, but the lamb chops are too tough and have very little lean meat.

In short, if I want to satisfy my longing for Xinjiang, I would definitely choose Ali or Baizuan first. But if I am in the Dongsi area for an exhibition or a play, grabbing a meal at Crescent Moon is fine too.













January 21, Yangfang Shengli Hot Pot, Liujiayao branch

It rarely snows, so tonight we had a hot pot at Yangfang Shengli Shuanrou in Liujiayao, which opened in 2021! Although Yangfang Shengli Shuanrou is very famous, this was my first time eating there. I used to think they were mostly in the north, so I was surprised to see one open in the south.

To give a quick introduction, the main branch of Yangfang Shengli Shuanrou is located in a place called Xiguanshi. Hui Muslims from Xiguanshi followed Prince Yan north to Beijing in the early Ming Dynasty. Because they lived near the main trade route from Beijing to Zhangjiakou and were skilled in martial arts, many Xiguanshi Hui Muslims opened security escort agencies outside Qianmen during the Qing Dynasty. They specialized in protecting goods across the five northwestern provinces, mainly serving wealthy Shanxi merchants. People say Li Wuye, the master of the magic pellet in the novel 'Shi Gong An', was a Hui Muslim from Xiguanshi. The depictions of Li Guoliang, the 'Little Hero of the Golden Bow', and the Dongguangyu Escort Agency outside Qianmen in the novel 'Yongzheng Jianxia Tu' vividly show the life of the Xiguanshi Hui Muslim escort agencies during the Qing Dynasty. Because it sits on the essential path to the Mongolian grasslands, the mutton hot pot here is also very famous.

I feel that the Yangfang Shengli Shuanrou in Liujiayao is excellent in terms of environment, service, meat quality, and vegetable freshness. Our family was very satisfied, and we will come here often for gatherings. We ordered their whole lamb combo (lamb brain, 'half-side cloud' flank, lamb tendon, lamb spine, lamb 'emperor' cut, lamb rib, and lamb shoulder), a vegetable platter, crunchy tripe mushrooms, and frozen tofu. First, they opened a bottle of Nongfu Spring water and poured it into the pot, which felt very sincere, haha. They use 6-8 month old black-headed white lambs from Xilingol. The meat is truly fresh, and I personally feel the quality is better than the hot pot places I usually visit near Dongsi (I won't name them). Their pickled garlic (tangsuan) is also homemade, and the flavor is noticeably richer than the store-bought garlic at most hot pot restaurants.

Also, even though the place was very noisy during the dinner rush, the servers came immediately whenever we called. They never ignored us, so it feels like they really know how to run a business.



















January 27, Qiqihar BBQ at Toupiqi.

In the evening, we went to Toupiqi BBQ in the Weilaiyu area of Changying. It is a chain of Qiqihar-style BBQ, and this Changying branch is halal. We ordered freshly sliced family-style marinated meat, beef tongue, pickled cabbage (suancai), Dandong yellow clams, Jixi cold noodles (lengmian), and grilled vegetables. At the front desk, we helped ourselves to shredded tofu, peanuts, Korean kimchi, cantaloupe, oranges, and pumpkin porridge. The dipping sauces were also quite varied.

I really liked their yellow clams. When the cold noodles arrived, they were clumped together, likely because they had just come out of the fridge, but the taste was quite good. The marinated meat was okay, but the beef tongue felt a bit tough and the texture wasn't great. Overall, their food is decent, but I personally think their BBQ isn't as good as Qingu (though Qingu's fried chicken isn't great), I still prefer Qingu's BBQ. Speaking of which, Beijing now has Heilongjiang iron pot stew (Hao Shu) and BBQ, we are just missing a traditional Heilongjiang home-style restaurant! There used to be a Heilongjiang restaurant in Xihongmen called Xingyuege. I had their sweet and sour pork (guobaorou) and steamed dumplings (shaomai) there, but unfortunately, they have closed down.



















January 29, Uyghur restaurant Xiapuna.

After ice skating in the afternoon, I ate stir-fried lamb liver, braised lamb chops with green beans, and home-style mixed noodles (banmian) at the Uyghur restaurant Xiapuna on Shenlu Street. We arrived at Xinjiang lunch time, and sure enough, all the diners in the room were Uyghur, haha.

Their stir-fried lamb liver is super delicious and incredibly tender. It is better than any grilled liver I have had at restaurants in Beijing, and after eating it, I do not even want to eat grilled liver anymore. The braised lamb chops with green beans (jiangdou) are also great. The beans are actually yardlong beans, and they are crispy and fragrant after being fried. The lamb must be from Xinjiang because it lacks the gamey smell found in Beijing. The flatbread (nang) is an oily version that was fried again, and soaking it in the lamb chop sauce is so appetizing.

The meat in the home-style mixed noodles is delicious, but they give you too little. The overall flavor is a bit bland, and the noodles are so thin that I first thought they were dried noodles (guamian). But they taste chewy, so they must be hand-pulled.













January 31, New Year's Eve dinner.

A dish I made with simple stewed meat.





Stewed meat over rice.



Everyone worked together to knead the dough and mix the filling.











February 1, eating dumplings (jiaozi).

We ate the dumplings as we wrapped them, including lamb with lentils, beef with fennel, and beef with celery, using both Urumqi and Beijing wrapping styles. They were wrapped perfectly and tasted super delicious. Then we opened the Laba garlic (labasuan) that we pickled on Laba Festival, which also turned out great and smelled amazing. We used the leftover dough after finishing the filling to make hand-cut noodles.



















Then we had pan-fried dumplings (jianjiao) as well. Collapse Read »

Muslim Travel Guide Beijing Winter Diary: Mosques, Halal Food and Hui Muslim Heritage (Part 2)

Reposted from the web

Summary: Beijing Winter Diary — Mosques, Halal Food and Muslim Heritage is presented here as a firsthand travel account in clear English, beginning with this scene: After ice skating in the afternoon, we went to Hongbinlou on Zhanlan Road for dinner. The account keeps its focus on Beijing Mosques, Halal Food, Muslim Heritage while preserving the names, places, food, and historical details from the Chinese source.



February 2, Hongbinlou Zhanlan Road branch.

After ice skating in the afternoon, we went to Hongbinlou on Zhanlan Road for dinner. We ordered stir-fried chicken with walnuts and bean paste (taoren jiangbao jiding), braised sheep eyes (du yangyan), stir-fried seasonal vegetables, and a mixed corn stew (yumi quanhui). It was my first time having the mixed corn stew. It contained fish maw, fish cartilage, diced chicken, and diced bamboo shoots. The texture was very rich, and everyone liked it. We actually came here for the roast lamb, but after arriving, we found that the roast lamb at the Zhanlan Road branch was more than twice as expensive as at the Chaoyangmen branch. It was a bit too pricey, so we didn't order it.

Hongbinlou has long been Beijing's most expensive traditional halal stir-fry restaurant. It has always used the title of "Beijing's Number One Halal Restaurant," and I think it really lives up to the name. Every time I come here to eat, I never order a bad dish. Everything is delicious and worth the price. I can usually eat two bowls of rice with their stir-fried dishes like the honey-glazed lamb (ta simi), braised meat strips (ba routiao), and stir-fried chicken with bean paste.

Hongbinlou was founded in Tianjin in 1853 and moved to Beijing in 1955. Its "beef and lamb cooking techniques (Hongbinlou whole sheep banquet production techniques)" are listed as a national intangible cultural heritage. During the Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China era, the whole sheep banquet was a high-level feast in traditional Muslim restaurants in the Beijing-Tianjin area. Hongbinlou's famous chef Song Shaoshan created a signature banquet featuring 120 dishes.













Cracking melon seeds while watching a movie.



I used the leftover cut noodles from making dumplings to make minced meat and eggplant noodles.





February 4, 798 electric grilled skewers.

While walking around 798, I found an electric skewer shop run by Hui Muslims from Niujie. We ordered lamb skewers, chicken skewers, and grilled prawns. I wanted to try the boneless grilled hairtail, but unfortunately, it was sold out. The shop has many old photos of Niujie and some vintage items.













February 4, Kolkata restaurant Sadhu.

After seeing the exhibition at the Guanfu Museum, Zainab said she really wanted to drink yogurt, so we headed straight to the place Zainab thinks makes the best yogurt in Beijing—the Indian Kolkata Muslim restaurant Sadhu in Beiluogu Lane. Their thin yogurt drink (lassi) is well-deservedly the best in Beijing. For thick yogurt, I still have to say it's the Kashgar Mahmut Restaurant on Baiyunguan Street.

Lassi comes from the Sanskrit word Lasika, which originally meant serum. Lassi comes in sweet and salty versions. The sweet version is mainly found in the Gujarat, Rajasthan, and Sindh regions, while the salty version is widely distributed in other parts of North India. Sadhu's lassi tastes slightly sweet and is mainly defined by the aroma of the yogurt, which is why Zainab likes it the most.

Besides the thin lassi, I also ordered a vegetable yogurt called raita, which had diced cucumber and diced carrots in it. I think it is very refreshing when paired with curry. Raita is a Hindi word formed by combining the Sanskrit words "rajika" and "tiktaka," which originally meant "black mustard seeds" and "pungent," because making raita requires frying black mustard seeds and cumin before mixing them into chopped vegetables and then adding them to the yogurt.

We ordered two types of curry, beef Bhuna and vegetable Korma. Bhuna means 'fried' in Urdu. It usually includes onion, ginger, and garlic. The curry is fried in hot oil until it becomes a thick paste. I think it tastes better than regular curry. Korma is a type of curry stewed with coconut milk or yogurt. The word 'Korma' comes from the Turkic word 'Qawirma,' which originally meant fried. In Urdu, the meaning changed to stew. Korma is a classic Mughal court dish that started in the 16th century. People say Shah Jahan and his guests ate Korma at the banquet for the completion of the Taj Mahal.

When ordering a main dish at Saduli, I usually choose South Asian flatbread (Naan) or fried rice (Biryani). This time, I picked something I had never tried there before: raisin pilaf (Shejhani Pulao). The style of cooking rice in a large pot only became popular from Andalusia to Afghanistan during the Abbasid Caliphate. The word pilaf (Pilāv) comes from Persian. The earliest record of pilaf dates back to the 10th century in the writings of the Persian scholar Ibn Sina, so some people call him the father of modern pilaf. After the 16th century, pilaf became popular in India along with the rise of the Mughal Empire.

We also ordered grilled salmon (Tikka). Tikka comes from the Turkic word tikkü, which means 'piece.' The Mughal Empire brought this method of grilling spice-marinated boneless meat or vegetable chunks to India. The most common Tikka is chicken.

















February 5, Xilaisun

After listening to Wang Yuebo perform the Sword Hero Map (Jianxia Tu) at the Lao She Teahouse, I strolled to Xilaisun at Hepingmen for dinner. It was super busy after four o'clock. It seems Beijingers don't want to cook at home during the Chinese New Year, haha.

Zainab pushed me to try something new instead of always ordering their stir-fried chicken cubes with bean paste (jiangbao jiding) and Ma Lianliang duck. We ordered meatballs in sauce (liu wanzi), braised mixed vegetables (shao quansu), and dry-braised sturgeon (gan shao xunyu), plus our must-order bamboo shoot jasmine soup. I have to say, everything at Xilaisun tastes good. Their meatballs in sauce have a great texture! At least they are stuffed much better than the fillings at some unnamed restaurants where you can actually taste the meat, while other places just taste like starch. Their dry-braised sturgeon isn't the traditional Shandong cuisine (Lu cuisine) style. It's sweet, sour, and spicy, which feels a bit like the Southwest region. I really like it! The sturgeon has no bones, so it's great to eat with rice. I noticed that besides the Ma Lianliang duck, the dry-braised sturgeon was the most popular dish on every table. The chef has to go catch a fish from the tank every little while.



















February 7, Beef Stew

I made old-fashioned beef stew with green beans, button mushrooms, potatoes, and carrots. I personally think it tastes better than what you get in restaurants! It takes at least an hour and a half to make, so I don't usually have time for it.







February 8, Changying Equator Yakiniku Lunch Set

A twisty and surprising lunch experience in Changying at noon. First, we went to a Korean barbecue place, but it was closed for a break. Then we tried a Qiqihar-style barbecue place we like, but they had just stopped serving five minutes earlier so the staff could go for COVID testing, so we had to go to a Japanese-style restaurant called Chidao BBQ. To our surprise, Chidao BBQ now offers Japanese set meals (teishoku) for lunch! This must be the only halal Japanese set meal in Beijing.

We bought teriyaki chicken rice and beef sukiyaki, and also ordered matsutake mushroom soup and fried squid tentacles. The set meal comes with a salad, steamed egg custard (chawanmushi), miso soup, seaweed salad, and a mochi dessert (daifuku). The teriyaki chicken rice tasted pretty good! Next time I want to try the beef rice. Actually, you can also order the sukiyaki as a single dish that comes with rice.



















February 12, Maidebao

We ate steak pizza and a small whole chicken at Maidebao in Galaxy SOHO, Chaoyangmen. Their pizza is packed with toppings; the crust is crispy and the middle is tender, which gives it a great texture that both Zainab and I really love. The owners are very warm toward fellow Muslims (dosti), and if they aren't busy, we always chat about the faith, so visiting them is a treat for both the spirit and the stomach.









February 15, hand-pulled noodles (latiaozi) made by Zainab.

I just love the hand-pulled noodles Zainab makes; it's a real perk of being a Xinjiang son-in-law.







Sweet rice balls (yuanxiao) and almond tofu in Changying.







February 16, Yanlanlou at Dongsishitiao.

At Yanlanlou in Dongsishitiao, we ate a pound of lamb neck, hand-pulled noodles (lamian), sweet pea soup (huidouzi), three kinds of small mushrooms, pea sprout soup with beans, and corn steamed cake (fagao). I personally prefer their lamb neck because it is leaner than the rib meat. I think their meat is quite tender for Beijing standards! Of course, it still doesn't compare to the one I had at Fuyuan Noodle Restaurant in Yinchuan, which was the most tender lamb neck I have ever eaten.

Actually, every time I go to Yanlanlou, I order the lentil and sparrow-tongue noodles; the slightly sour, warm soup is perfect for winter, but this time I saw everyone at the next table eating hand-pulled noodles, so I got tempted and changed my order on the spot, haha. In the summer, I prefer their fermented vegetable noodles (jiangshuimian), as the fermented broth is very refreshing. They also serve sturgeon and mandarin fish made with fermented vegetable broth (jiangshui), though I am not sure how they taste.

Zainab likes their pea sprout soup with beans (doutang wandou miao), which is like a vegetable porridge and hard to find in other restaurants. We packed some corn steamed cake (yumi fagao) to take home, and it tastes even better when toasted in a pan the next day.















February 18: Made zucchini pancakes (hutazi) and stir-fried kohlrabi strips with meat at home.

I made zucchini pancakes (hutazi) and stir-fried kohlrabi strips with meat at home. The zucchini pancakes were a bit thick, but they still tasted good. The kohlrabi strips were stir-fried in lamb fat.









February 20: Turkish clay pot beef (Testikebabı) at Xiting Xiuse.

We had Turkish clay pot beef (Testikebabı) for lunch at Xiting Xiuse. The chef cracked the pot open when serving, just like when I last had it in Istanbul!

Testikebabı is a popular dish in central Anatolia and the western Black Sea region. It is made by putting beef, mushrooms, tomatoes, and shallots into a clay pot, sealing the opening with bread, and slow-cooking it in an oven. After it is cooked, they heat butter on an iron plate, crack the pot open, and pour the bread and stew onto the plate. It smells amazing!

Zainab and I both love Testikebabı. The tomato flavor is so rich, and it is delicious dipped with bread. The beef is quite lean, so those who prefer a mix of fat and lean meat might find it a bit dry.















We had a very rich Turkish brunch at Xiting Xiuse, and Zainab ordered her favorite chickpea dip (Hummus).

There were four types of cheese: Greek feta sheep milk cheese, Turkish Tulum goat milk cheese, Turkish Eski kaşar sheep and goat milk blend, and southern Italian Mozzarella buffalo milk cheese.

In Turkish, Tulum refers to cheese aged inside a goat skin. The traditional method involves stuffing the cheese into a goat skin, tying it tightly with rope, and keeping it in a cellar or cave at 10-12 degrees for up to 6 months. Eski kaşar is a hard yellow cheese that can be stored for up to 3 years after air-drying.

Then there were 3 types of Turkish jam, 2 types of Turkish olives, sesame paste (Tahini), grape molasses (Pekmez), clotted cream (Kaymak), Turkish honey, Turkish fried spring rolls (Sigara Böreği), Turkish beef sausage with eggs (Sucuklu yumurta), bread, cucumbers, and other dishes.

Tahini comes from Levantine Arabic and originally meant to grind. As the Ottoman Empire expanded, this sesame paste spread to the eastern Mediterranean, southern Caucasus, and North Africa, becoming a common bread dip in Middle Eastern restaurants. In Turkey, sesame paste (Tahini) is usually served with grape molasses (Pekmez). Pekmez comes from a Turkic language and first appeared in the Compendium of the Turkic Dialects written by Mahmud al-Kashgari in the 1070s. Pekmez is a syrup made by boiling grapes with crushed carob seeds, sometimes with added pomegranate or mulberry.

The word Kaymak comes from a Turkic language and originally meant to melt, also appearing first in the Compendium of the Turkic Dialects. Kaymak is made by simmering milk for 2 hours, then letting it cool and ferment for several days, resulting in a milk fat content as high as 60%.

The sujuk in sujuklu yumurta first appeared in the Compendium of the Turkic Dialects. It is made by grinding beef, adding tail fat and other fats, stuffing it into casings, tying it with string, and then letting it ferment slowly.













February 25: Mother-in-law's huoldun.

On my mother-in-law's first day in Beijing, we ate huoldun soaked in naan, made with a front leg of lamb she carried all the way from Urumqi!







February 25: Mother-in-law's big plate chicken with belt noodles.

The second meal my mother-in-law made was big plate chicken with belt noodles (dapanji pidaimian). She brought the free-range chicken with her from Urumqi.







February 26: Mother-in-law's lamb hand-torn noodles.

The third meal my mother-in-law made was lamb hand-torn noodles (jiupianzi).







February 26: The Syrian restaurant One Thousand and One Nights in Sanlitun.

We ate the famous Syrian snack, Arais beef pies, at the Syrian restaurant One Thousand and One Nights in Sanlitun. Arais is known as a Syrian sandwich. It is made by stuffing pita bread with meat, brushing it with oil, and grilling it. The grilled pita bread is very crispy, and the meat filling is very tender. Arais comes in chicken, lamb, and beef versions, and sometimes cheese is added.

Arais is the plural form of the Arabic word for bride. People think this dish symbolizes a wedding between the white pita bread, like a wedding dress, and the meat filling, so brides in some places eat Arais at their weddings.





We had kofta meatball yogurt, eggplant puree kebab, chickpeas with tomatoes and vegetables, rice porridge soup, lentil soup, and vegetable soup. The owner served every dish politely.



















February 28: Iftar for the Night of Ascension.

For the Iftar on the Night of Ascension, my mother-in-law made meatball soup using meat ground fresh on Douban Hutong. The secret to fried meatballs is to pour hot oil into the meat mixture first!











Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: Beijing Winter Diary — Mosques, Halal Food and Muslim Heritage is presented here as a firsthand travel account in clear English, beginning with this scene: After ice skating in the afternoon, we went to Hongbinlou on Zhanlan Road for dinner. The account keeps its focus on Beijing Mosques, Halal Food, Muslim Heritage while preserving the names, places, food, and historical details from the Chinese source.



February 2, Hongbinlou Zhanlan Road branch.

After ice skating in the afternoon, we went to Hongbinlou on Zhanlan Road for dinner. We ordered stir-fried chicken with walnuts and bean paste (taoren jiangbao jiding), braised sheep eyes (du yangyan), stir-fried seasonal vegetables, and a mixed corn stew (yumi quanhui). It was my first time having the mixed corn stew. It contained fish maw, fish cartilage, diced chicken, and diced bamboo shoots. The texture was very rich, and everyone liked it. We actually came here for the roast lamb, but after arriving, we found that the roast lamb at the Zhanlan Road branch was more than twice as expensive as at the Chaoyangmen branch. It was a bit too pricey, so we didn't order it.

Hongbinlou has long been Beijing's most expensive traditional halal stir-fry restaurant. It has always used the title of "Beijing's Number One Halal Restaurant," and I think it really lives up to the name. Every time I come here to eat, I never order a bad dish. Everything is delicious and worth the price. I can usually eat two bowls of rice with their stir-fried dishes like the honey-glazed lamb (ta simi), braised meat strips (ba routiao), and stir-fried chicken with bean paste.

Hongbinlou was founded in Tianjin in 1853 and moved to Beijing in 1955. Its "beef and lamb cooking techniques (Hongbinlou whole sheep banquet production techniques)" are listed as a national intangible cultural heritage. During the Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China era, the whole sheep banquet was a high-level feast in traditional Muslim restaurants in the Beijing-Tianjin area. Hongbinlou's famous chef Song Shaoshan created a signature banquet featuring 120 dishes.













Cracking melon seeds while watching a movie.



I used the leftover cut noodles from making dumplings to make minced meat and eggplant noodles.





February 4, 798 electric grilled skewers.

While walking around 798, I found an electric skewer shop run by Hui Muslims from Niujie. We ordered lamb skewers, chicken skewers, and grilled prawns. I wanted to try the boneless grilled hairtail, but unfortunately, it was sold out. The shop has many old photos of Niujie and some vintage items.













February 4, Kolkata restaurant Sadhu.

After seeing the exhibition at the Guanfu Museum, Zainab said she really wanted to drink yogurt, so we headed straight to the place Zainab thinks makes the best yogurt in Beijing—the Indian Kolkata Muslim restaurant Sadhu in Beiluogu Lane. Their thin yogurt drink (lassi) is well-deservedly the best in Beijing. For thick yogurt, I still have to say it's the Kashgar Mahmut Restaurant on Baiyunguan Street.

Lassi comes from the Sanskrit word Lasika, which originally meant serum. Lassi comes in sweet and salty versions. The sweet version is mainly found in the Gujarat, Rajasthan, and Sindh regions, while the salty version is widely distributed in other parts of North India. Sadhu's lassi tastes slightly sweet and is mainly defined by the aroma of the yogurt, which is why Zainab likes it the most.

Besides the thin lassi, I also ordered a vegetable yogurt called raita, which had diced cucumber and diced carrots in it. I think it is very refreshing when paired with curry. Raita is a Hindi word formed by combining the Sanskrit words "rajika" and "tiktaka," which originally meant "black mustard seeds" and "pungent," because making raita requires frying black mustard seeds and cumin before mixing them into chopped vegetables and then adding them to the yogurt.

We ordered two types of curry, beef Bhuna and vegetable Korma. Bhuna means 'fried' in Urdu. It usually includes onion, ginger, and garlic. The curry is fried in hot oil until it becomes a thick paste. I think it tastes better than regular curry. Korma is a type of curry stewed with coconut milk or yogurt. The word 'Korma' comes from the Turkic word 'Qawirma,' which originally meant fried. In Urdu, the meaning changed to stew. Korma is a classic Mughal court dish that started in the 16th century. People say Shah Jahan and his guests ate Korma at the banquet for the completion of the Taj Mahal.

When ordering a main dish at Saduli, I usually choose South Asian flatbread (Naan) or fried rice (Biryani). This time, I picked something I had never tried there before: raisin pilaf (Shejhani Pulao). The style of cooking rice in a large pot only became popular from Andalusia to Afghanistan during the Abbasid Caliphate. The word pilaf (Pilāv) comes from Persian. The earliest record of pilaf dates back to the 10th century in the writings of the Persian scholar Ibn Sina, so some people call him the father of modern pilaf. After the 16th century, pilaf became popular in India along with the rise of the Mughal Empire.

We also ordered grilled salmon (Tikka). Tikka comes from the Turkic word tikkü, which means 'piece.' The Mughal Empire brought this method of grilling spice-marinated boneless meat or vegetable chunks to India. The most common Tikka is chicken.

















February 5, Xilaisun

After listening to Wang Yuebo perform the Sword Hero Map (Jianxia Tu) at the Lao She Teahouse, I strolled to Xilaisun at Hepingmen for dinner. It was super busy after four o'clock. It seems Beijingers don't want to cook at home during the Chinese New Year, haha.

Zainab pushed me to try something new instead of always ordering their stir-fried chicken cubes with bean paste (jiangbao jiding) and Ma Lianliang duck. We ordered meatballs in sauce (liu wanzi), braised mixed vegetables (shao quansu), and dry-braised sturgeon (gan shao xunyu), plus our must-order bamboo shoot jasmine soup. I have to say, everything at Xilaisun tastes good. Their meatballs in sauce have a great texture! At least they are stuffed much better than the fillings at some unnamed restaurants where you can actually taste the meat, while other places just taste like starch. Their dry-braised sturgeon isn't the traditional Shandong cuisine (Lu cuisine) style. It's sweet, sour, and spicy, which feels a bit like the Southwest region. I really like it! The sturgeon has no bones, so it's great to eat with rice. I noticed that besides the Ma Lianliang duck, the dry-braised sturgeon was the most popular dish on every table. The chef has to go catch a fish from the tank every little while.



















February 7, Beef Stew

I made old-fashioned beef stew with green beans, button mushrooms, potatoes, and carrots. I personally think it tastes better than what you get in restaurants! It takes at least an hour and a half to make, so I don't usually have time for it.







February 8, Changying Equator Yakiniku Lunch Set

A twisty and surprising lunch experience in Changying at noon. First, we went to a Korean barbecue place, but it was closed for a break. Then we tried a Qiqihar-style barbecue place we like, but they had just stopped serving five minutes earlier so the staff could go for COVID testing, so we had to go to a Japanese-style restaurant called Chidao BBQ. To our surprise, Chidao BBQ now offers Japanese set meals (teishoku) for lunch! This must be the only halal Japanese set meal in Beijing.

We bought teriyaki chicken rice and beef sukiyaki, and also ordered matsutake mushroom soup and fried squid tentacles. The set meal comes with a salad, steamed egg custard (chawanmushi), miso soup, seaweed salad, and a mochi dessert (daifuku). The teriyaki chicken rice tasted pretty good! Next time I want to try the beef rice. Actually, you can also order the sukiyaki as a single dish that comes with rice.



















February 12, Maidebao

We ate steak pizza and a small whole chicken at Maidebao in Galaxy SOHO, Chaoyangmen. Their pizza is packed with toppings; the crust is crispy and the middle is tender, which gives it a great texture that both Zainab and I really love. The owners are very warm toward fellow Muslims (dosti), and if they aren't busy, we always chat about the faith, so visiting them is a treat for both the spirit and the stomach.









February 15, hand-pulled noodles (latiaozi) made by Zainab.

I just love the hand-pulled noodles Zainab makes; it's a real perk of being a Xinjiang son-in-law.







Sweet rice balls (yuanxiao) and almond tofu in Changying.







February 16, Yanlanlou at Dongsishitiao.

At Yanlanlou in Dongsishitiao, we ate a pound of lamb neck, hand-pulled noodles (lamian), sweet pea soup (huidouzi), three kinds of small mushrooms, pea sprout soup with beans, and corn steamed cake (fagao). I personally prefer their lamb neck because it is leaner than the rib meat. I think their meat is quite tender for Beijing standards! Of course, it still doesn't compare to the one I had at Fuyuan Noodle Restaurant in Yinchuan, which was the most tender lamb neck I have ever eaten.

Actually, every time I go to Yanlanlou, I order the lentil and sparrow-tongue noodles; the slightly sour, warm soup is perfect for winter, but this time I saw everyone at the next table eating hand-pulled noodles, so I got tempted and changed my order on the spot, haha. In the summer, I prefer their fermented vegetable noodles (jiangshuimian), as the fermented broth is very refreshing. They also serve sturgeon and mandarin fish made with fermented vegetable broth (jiangshui), though I am not sure how they taste.

Zainab likes their pea sprout soup with beans (doutang wandou miao), which is like a vegetable porridge and hard to find in other restaurants. We packed some corn steamed cake (yumi fagao) to take home, and it tastes even better when toasted in a pan the next day.















February 18: Made zucchini pancakes (hutazi) and stir-fried kohlrabi strips with meat at home.

I made zucchini pancakes (hutazi) and stir-fried kohlrabi strips with meat at home. The zucchini pancakes were a bit thick, but they still tasted good. The kohlrabi strips were stir-fried in lamb fat.









February 20: Turkish clay pot beef (Testikebabı) at Xiting Xiuse.

We had Turkish clay pot beef (Testikebabı) for lunch at Xiting Xiuse. The chef cracked the pot open when serving, just like when I last had it in Istanbul!

Testikebabı is a popular dish in central Anatolia and the western Black Sea region. It is made by putting beef, mushrooms, tomatoes, and shallots into a clay pot, sealing the opening with bread, and slow-cooking it in an oven. After it is cooked, they heat butter on an iron plate, crack the pot open, and pour the bread and stew onto the plate. It smells amazing!

Zainab and I both love Testikebabı. The tomato flavor is so rich, and it is delicious dipped with bread. The beef is quite lean, so those who prefer a mix of fat and lean meat might find it a bit dry.















We had a very rich Turkish brunch at Xiting Xiuse, and Zainab ordered her favorite chickpea dip (Hummus).

There were four types of cheese: Greek feta sheep milk cheese, Turkish Tulum goat milk cheese, Turkish Eski kaşar sheep and goat milk blend, and southern Italian Mozzarella buffalo milk cheese.

In Turkish, Tulum refers to cheese aged inside a goat skin. The traditional method involves stuffing the cheese into a goat skin, tying it tightly with rope, and keeping it in a cellar or cave at 10-12 degrees for up to 6 months. Eski kaşar is a hard yellow cheese that can be stored for up to 3 years after air-drying.

Then there were 3 types of Turkish jam, 2 types of Turkish olives, sesame paste (Tahini), grape molasses (Pekmez), clotted cream (Kaymak), Turkish honey, Turkish fried spring rolls (Sigara Böreği), Turkish beef sausage with eggs (Sucuklu yumurta), bread, cucumbers, and other dishes.

Tahini comes from Levantine Arabic and originally meant to grind. As the Ottoman Empire expanded, this sesame paste spread to the eastern Mediterranean, southern Caucasus, and North Africa, becoming a common bread dip in Middle Eastern restaurants. In Turkey, sesame paste (Tahini) is usually served with grape molasses (Pekmez). Pekmez comes from a Turkic language and first appeared in the Compendium of the Turkic Dialects written by Mahmud al-Kashgari in the 1070s. Pekmez is a syrup made by boiling grapes with crushed carob seeds, sometimes with added pomegranate or mulberry.

The word Kaymak comes from a Turkic language and originally meant to melt, also appearing first in the Compendium of the Turkic Dialects. Kaymak is made by simmering milk for 2 hours, then letting it cool and ferment for several days, resulting in a milk fat content as high as 60%.

The sujuk in sujuklu yumurta first appeared in the Compendium of the Turkic Dialects. It is made by grinding beef, adding tail fat and other fats, stuffing it into casings, tying it with string, and then letting it ferment slowly.













February 25: Mother-in-law's huoldun.

On my mother-in-law's first day in Beijing, we ate huoldun soaked in naan, made with a front leg of lamb she carried all the way from Urumqi!







February 25: Mother-in-law's big plate chicken with belt noodles.

The second meal my mother-in-law made was big plate chicken with belt noodles (dapanji pidaimian). She brought the free-range chicken with her from Urumqi.







February 26: Mother-in-law's lamb hand-torn noodles.

The third meal my mother-in-law made was lamb hand-torn noodles (jiupianzi).







February 26: The Syrian restaurant One Thousand and One Nights in Sanlitun.

We ate the famous Syrian snack, Arais beef pies, at the Syrian restaurant One Thousand and One Nights in Sanlitun. Arais is known as a Syrian sandwich. It is made by stuffing pita bread with meat, brushing it with oil, and grilling it. The grilled pita bread is very crispy, and the meat filling is very tender. Arais comes in chicken, lamb, and beef versions, and sometimes cheese is added.

Arais is the plural form of the Arabic word for bride. People think this dish symbolizes a wedding between the white pita bread, like a wedding dress, and the meat filling, so brides in some places eat Arais at their weddings.





We had kofta meatball yogurt, eggplant puree kebab, chickpeas with tomatoes and vegetables, rice porridge soup, lentil soup, and vegetable soup. The owner served every dish politely.



















February 28: Iftar for the Night of Ascension.

For the Iftar on the Night of Ascension, my mother-in-law made meatball soup using meat ground fresh on Douban Hutong. The secret to fried meatballs is to pour hot oil into the meat mixture first!











Collapse Read »

Halal Food Guide Beijing Ramadan: Turkish, Tunisian, Jordanian and Pakistani Iftar Buffets

Reposted from the web

Summary: Halal Food Guide: Beijing Ramadan Iftar — Middle Eastern and South Asian Restaurants is presented here as a firsthand travel account in clear English, beginning with this scene: The iftar buffets in Beijing during Ramadan each year are a real highlight. This year, several restaurants are offering Middle Eastern and South Asian iftar buffets, making it a good chance for a food tour. The account keeps its focus on Beijing Halal Food, Ramadan Dining, Muslim Food while preserving the names, places, food, and historical details from the Chinese source.

The iftar buffets in Beijing during Ramadan each year are a real highlight. This year, four restaurants from Turkey, Tunisia, Jordan, and Pakistan are offering iftar buffets, making it the perfect chance for a food tour of the Middle East and South Asia.

1. Turkey

The first stop is Dardanelles, a long-standing Ramadan iftar buffet spot on Ritan Upper Street. It is a Turkish restaurant run by Azerbaijanis, so they serve both Turkish and Azerbaijani flavors.

The best part is the unlimited grilled meat from their open-flame oven, including roast chicken, lamb chops, and kebab meat paste—you can eat your fill! They also have all kinds of flatbread (nang) and bread, plus Levantine appetizers and stews. They serve lentil soup made from three colors of lentils. For drinks, they have lemonade, salty yogurt drink (ayran), and Turkish black tea. For dessert, there is classic baklava and milk pudding, along with various fruits. Overall, their selection is really rich.









Freshly grilled in an open oven





Baklava is the most famous dessert of the Ottoman Empire, developed by the royal chefs at the Ottoman Topkapi Palace. Every year on the 15th day of Ramadan, the Ottoman Sultan would attend a ceremony called Baklava Alayı, where trays of baklava were distributed to the Janissaries.

Baklava is a flaky pastry made by layering very thin unleavened dough (filo), topped with crushed pistachios, crushed walnuts, syrup, or honey.





Traditional Levantine appetizers were brought to Turkey and Azerbaijan following the Ottoman Empire.





Adana kebab served with yogurt.



Azerbaijani pilaf (plov) and saffron rice served with various stews.



Beef stewed with apricots and lamb liver are my favorites; eating them feels like being back in the Old City of Baku.







Stuffed vegetable rolls (dolma) can be made with grape leaves or cabbage, and this dish is very popular in former Ottoman regions.





2. Tunisia

The second stop is La Medina, a Tunisian restaurant on Liangma River. First, follow the Sunnah by eating dates, then drink harissa soup. The first plate includes North African sausage (merguez), grilled meat (kebab), six types of Levantine and Maghreb appetizers (meze), fried chickpea balls (falafel), and fried meat balls (kibbeh). You can put the appetizers (meze) and fried chickpea balls (falafel) inside pita bread.













Harissa is known as the national condiment of Tunisia. It is a signature spicy sauce from the Maghreb region made with Maghreb-style Baklouti peppers mixed with caraway, coriander seeds, cumin, garlic, and other spices. The name Baklouti comes from the coastal Tunisian city of Bekalta.



North African sausage (merguez) is made with lamb and beef, mixed with fennel seeds, harissa, chili, and various other spices, and is usually grilled. Merguez sausage (merguez) first appeared in 12th-century Andalusia and later spread across North Africa. In Beijing, you can only find it at La Medina.



Falafel is common in restaurants across the former Ottoman regions, but Kibbeh is not found everywhere. Kibbeh originated in the Levant. It is made of cracked wheat wrapped around a filling of minced meat, chopped onions, and Middle Eastern spices like cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, and allspice.



The Tunisian appetizer Mechouia is only available at this restaurant in Beijing. Mechouia is made by roasting onions, green peppers, tomatoes, and garlic in an oven, then seasoning them with caraway, salt, and black pepper. After it is prepared, it is drizzled with olive oil and garnished with olives, tuna, and boiled eggs.



Classic chickpea dip (hummus) is available in almost every Middle Eastern restaurant.



Tabbouleh (tabbouleh) is made of chopped parsley, tomatoes, mint, onions, and bulgur (cracked dried wheat). It is seasoned with olive oil, lemon juice, salt, and pepper.



Roasted eggplant dip (mutabbal) is served with olive oil and lemon juice.



North African eggs (shakshouka) is a traditional Maghreb dish. It is made by poaching eggs in a sauce of tomatoes, olive oil, peppers, onions, and garlic, seasoned with cumin and chili. This dish appeared in the mid-16th century after tomatoes and peppers were introduced to North Africa from the Americas during the Ottoman period.



The second dish was the classic North African Berber meal of couscous (couscous) served with a clay pot stew (tajine). Couscous is a staple food for the Berber people. It is made by rolling semolina flour into millet-sized grains and then drying them. A tagine (tajigu) is a clay pot with a flat, round bottom and a cone-shaped or domed lid. This design lets steam condense and drip back to the bottom, and you can also add water through a hole in the lid.







For dessert, we had Basbousa, which comes from Egypt. They let you add your own crushed pistachios, so I scooped on a big spoonful. Basbousa is a semolina cake soaked in syrup. It is baked in a pan and then soaked in orange blossom water, rose water, or simple syrup.



3. Jordan

Our third stop was Al Safir, a Levantine restaurant at Sanyuanqiao. The owner is a Palestinian from Jordan.

The three Ramadan iftar buffets I have tried so far each have their own style. Dardanelles has the most variety, and their open-flame grilled meat is unlimited. La Medina is the only place in Beijing where you can find a Maghreb buffet, which makes it very unique. Al Safir has the best selection of Levantine appetizers known as meze, and their falafel and grilled chicken wraps are the tastiest.













For a traditional Arab iftar, you follow the Sunnah by eating dates first, then drinking soup, usually lentil or chicken soup. Then you pray Maghrib, and after that, you start the main meal. At Al Safir, you can eat the most classic lamb fried dumplings (sambousek) that Arabs enjoy during Ramadan. This snack started as the Iranian sanbosag and later spread to many places along with Persian culture. It entered the Arab diet after the 10th century, reached South Asia with the Delhi Sultanate after the 13th century, and later traveled to China, Indonesia, and Africa with Muslim merchants.





The classic Levantine way to eat it is to put falafel and various sauces inside pita bread, or just dip the pita bread directly into the sauce. Among the various appetizers (meze), my favorite is the red tomato stew (qalayet bandora), which is probably only available at Al Safir in Beijing. This dish is made with tomatoes, onions, chili peppers, and olive oil. It is said to have originated in the villages near the Dead Sea, where the hot climate of the Jordan Valley is perfect for growing tomatoes. They also serve a walnut, red bell pepper, pomegranate molasses, and breadcrumb dip (muhammara), which is said to have originated in Aleppo, Syria.







Every year during the Ramadan iftar buffet, Al Safir makes dishes that are not on the regular menu. This time, I tried two types of lamb stewed with cheese for the first time, and there was also very tender lamb with potatoes, both of which go perfectly with long-grain rice.













Finally, they serve everyone a semolina cake (basbousa) for dessert. La Medina's buffet also has this dessert, but Al Safir's is less sweet, which I think tastes better.



4. Pakistan

The fourth stop is the Pakistani restaurant Khan Baba in Sanlitun. Because there are very few people lately, the meal today felt more relaxed, though the portion sizes are not as large as they used to be. We started with dates and water. For the main course, Zaynab chose flatbread (naan), and I picked the classic biryani rice with masala chicken, chicken tikka, and grilled fish. We had rose syrup water to drink. For dessert, we had milk pudding (kheer). Their yogurt tasted very authentic and sour. A few dishes here are worth mentioning.









The first is pea and minced beef curry (matar qeema). This dish was brought to South Asia by the Mughal Empire. The word qeema comes from the Chagatai language and means minced meat. Chagatai is an extinct Turkic language. It was once popular across the territory of the Chagatai Khanate in Central Asia. It served as a literary language in Central Asia until the early 20th century and is the direct ancestor of modern Uzbek. Pea and minced beef curry (keema matar) was very popular in the Mughal court. It was a must-have dish at weddings and various Eid feasts.



The second is vegetable fritters (pakora). Pakora comes from Sanskrit and means a small cooked piece. It is a classic South Asian street snack made by dipping vegetables in spiced batter and deep-frying them.



The third is tempered lentil curry (tarka dal). Tempered lentil curry (tarka dal) is a popular vegetarian curry in North India. In South Asia, dal can refer to various dried beans like pigeon peas, yellow peas, or lentils. Tarka is a vegetarian curry cooking method where garlic, onions, and chili are quickly fried together.



The fourth is milk pudding (kheer). This is an ancient Indian dish that was mentioned in ancient Indian texts over two thousand years ago. Kheer comes from the Sanskrit word for milk. It is made with milk, sugar, and rice, and topped with shredded coconut, saffron, pistachios, raisins, and almonds.



Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: Halal Food Guide: Beijing Ramadan Iftar — Middle Eastern and South Asian Restaurants is presented here as a firsthand travel account in clear English, beginning with this scene: The iftar buffets in Beijing during Ramadan each year are a real highlight. This year, several restaurants are offering Middle Eastern and South Asian iftar buffets, making it a good chance for a food tour. The account keeps its focus on Beijing Halal Food, Ramadan Dining, Muslim Food while preserving the names, places, food, and historical details from the Chinese source.

The iftar buffets in Beijing during Ramadan each year are a real highlight. This year, four restaurants from Turkey, Tunisia, Jordan, and Pakistan are offering iftar buffets, making it the perfect chance for a food tour of the Middle East and South Asia.

1. Turkey

The first stop is Dardanelles, a long-standing Ramadan iftar buffet spot on Ritan Upper Street. It is a Turkish restaurant run by Azerbaijanis, so they serve both Turkish and Azerbaijani flavors.

The best part is the unlimited grilled meat from their open-flame oven, including roast chicken, lamb chops, and kebab meat paste—you can eat your fill! They also have all kinds of flatbread (nang) and bread, plus Levantine appetizers and stews. They serve lentil soup made from three colors of lentils. For drinks, they have lemonade, salty yogurt drink (ayran), and Turkish black tea. For dessert, there is classic baklava and milk pudding, along with various fruits. Overall, their selection is really rich.









Freshly grilled in an open oven





Baklava is the most famous dessert of the Ottoman Empire, developed by the royal chefs at the Ottoman Topkapi Palace. Every year on the 15th day of Ramadan, the Ottoman Sultan would attend a ceremony called Baklava Alayı, where trays of baklava were distributed to the Janissaries.

Baklava is a flaky pastry made by layering very thin unleavened dough (filo), topped with crushed pistachios, crushed walnuts, syrup, or honey.





Traditional Levantine appetizers were brought to Turkey and Azerbaijan following the Ottoman Empire.





Adana kebab served with yogurt.



Azerbaijani pilaf (plov) and saffron rice served with various stews.



Beef stewed with apricots and lamb liver are my favorites; eating them feels like being back in the Old City of Baku.







Stuffed vegetable rolls (dolma) can be made with grape leaves or cabbage, and this dish is very popular in former Ottoman regions.





2. Tunisia

The second stop is La Medina, a Tunisian restaurant on Liangma River. First, follow the Sunnah by eating dates, then drink harissa soup. The first plate includes North African sausage (merguez), grilled meat (kebab), six types of Levantine and Maghreb appetizers (meze), fried chickpea balls (falafel), and fried meat balls (kibbeh). You can put the appetizers (meze) and fried chickpea balls (falafel) inside pita bread.













Harissa is known as the national condiment of Tunisia. It is a signature spicy sauce from the Maghreb region made with Maghreb-style Baklouti peppers mixed with caraway, coriander seeds, cumin, garlic, and other spices. The name Baklouti comes from the coastal Tunisian city of Bekalta.



North African sausage (merguez) is made with lamb and beef, mixed with fennel seeds, harissa, chili, and various other spices, and is usually grilled. Merguez sausage (merguez) first appeared in 12th-century Andalusia and later spread across North Africa. In Beijing, you can only find it at La Medina.



Falafel is common in restaurants across the former Ottoman regions, but Kibbeh is not found everywhere. Kibbeh originated in the Levant. It is made of cracked wheat wrapped around a filling of minced meat, chopped onions, and Middle Eastern spices like cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, and allspice.



The Tunisian appetizer Mechouia is only available at this restaurant in Beijing. Mechouia is made by roasting onions, green peppers, tomatoes, and garlic in an oven, then seasoning them with caraway, salt, and black pepper. After it is prepared, it is drizzled with olive oil and garnished with olives, tuna, and boiled eggs.



Classic chickpea dip (hummus) is available in almost every Middle Eastern restaurant.



Tabbouleh (tabbouleh) is made of chopped parsley, tomatoes, mint, onions, and bulgur (cracked dried wheat). It is seasoned with olive oil, lemon juice, salt, and pepper.



Roasted eggplant dip (mutabbal) is served with olive oil and lemon juice.



North African eggs (shakshouka) is a traditional Maghreb dish. It is made by poaching eggs in a sauce of tomatoes, olive oil, peppers, onions, and garlic, seasoned with cumin and chili. This dish appeared in the mid-16th century after tomatoes and peppers were introduced to North Africa from the Americas during the Ottoman period.



The second dish was the classic North African Berber meal of couscous (couscous) served with a clay pot stew (tajine). Couscous is a staple food for the Berber people. It is made by rolling semolina flour into millet-sized grains and then drying them. A tagine (tajigu) is a clay pot with a flat, round bottom and a cone-shaped or domed lid. This design lets steam condense and drip back to the bottom, and you can also add water through a hole in the lid.







For dessert, we had Basbousa, which comes from Egypt. They let you add your own crushed pistachios, so I scooped on a big spoonful. Basbousa is a semolina cake soaked in syrup. It is baked in a pan and then soaked in orange blossom water, rose water, or simple syrup.



3. Jordan

Our third stop was Al Safir, a Levantine restaurant at Sanyuanqiao. The owner is a Palestinian from Jordan.

The three Ramadan iftar buffets I have tried so far each have their own style. Dardanelles has the most variety, and their open-flame grilled meat is unlimited. La Medina is the only place in Beijing where you can find a Maghreb buffet, which makes it very unique. Al Safir has the best selection of Levantine appetizers known as meze, and their falafel and grilled chicken wraps are the tastiest.













For a traditional Arab iftar, you follow the Sunnah by eating dates first, then drinking soup, usually lentil or chicken soup. Then you pray Maghrib, and after that, you start the main meal. At Al Safir, you can eat the most classic lamb fried dumplings (sambousek) that Arabs enjoy during Ramadan. This snack started as the Iranian sanbosag and later spread to many places along with Persian culture. It entered the Arab diet after the 10th century, reached South Asia with the Delhi Sultanate after the 13th century, and later traveled to China, Indonesia, and Africa with Muslim merchants.





The classic Levantine way to eat it is to put falafel and various sauces inside pita bread, or just dip the pita bread directly into the sauce. Among the various appetizers (meze), my favorite is the red tomato stew (qalayet bandora), which is probably only available at Al Safir in Beijing. This dish is made with tomatoes, onions, chili peppers, and olive oil. It is said to have originated in the villages near the Dead Sea, where the hot climate of the Jordan Valley is perfect for growing tomatoes. They also serve a walnut, red bell pepper, pomegranate molasses, and breadcrumb dip (muhammara), which is said to have originated in Aleppo, Syria.







Every year during the Ramadan iftar buffet, Al Safir makes dishes that are not on the regular menu. This time, I tried two types of lamb stewed with cheese for the first time, and there was also very tender lamb with potatoes, both of which go perfectly with long-grain rice.













Finally, they serve everyone a semolina cake (basbousa) for dessert. La Medina's buffet also has this dessert, but Al Safir's is less sweet, which I think tastes better.



4. Pakistan

The fourth stop is the Pakistani restaurant Khan Baba in Sanlitun. Because there are very few people lately, the meal today felt more relaxed, though the portion sizes are not as large as they used to be. We started with dates and water. For the main course, Zaynab chose flatbread (naan), and I picked the classic biryani rice with masala chicken, chicken tikka, and grilled fish. We had rose syrup water to drink. For dessert, we had milk pudding (kheer). Their yogurt tasted very authentic and sour. A few dishes here are worth mentioning.









The first is pea and minced beef curry (matar qeema). This dish was brought to South Asia by the Mughal Empire. The word qeema comes from the Chagatai language and means minced meat. Chagatai is an extinct Turkic language. It was once popular across the territory of the Chagatai Khanate in Central Asia. It served as a literary language in Central Asia until the early 20th century and is the direct ancestor of modern Uzbek. Pea and minced beef curry (keema matar) was very popular in the Mughal court. It was a must-have dish at weddings and various Eid feasts.



The second is vegetable fritters (pakora). Pakora comes from Sanskrit and means a small cooked piece. It is a classic South Asian street snack made by dipping vegetables in spiced batter and deep-frying them.



The third is tempered lentil curry (tarka dal). Tempered lentil curry (tarka dal) is a popular vegetarian curry in North India. In South Asia, dal can refer to various dried beans like pigeon peas, yellow peas, or lentils. Tarka is a vegetarian curry cooking method where garlic, onions, and chili are quickly fried together.



The fourth is milk pudding (kheer). This is an ancient Indian dish that was mentioned in ancient Indian texts over two thousand years ago. Kheer comes from the Sanskrit word for milk. It is made with milk, sugar, and rice, and topped with shredded coconut, saffron, pistachios, raisins, and almonds.



Collapse Read »

Muslim Travel Guide Shandong Liaocheng: Old Mosques, Canal City Streets and Hui Heritage

Reposted from the web

Summary: This Muslim travel guide China 2026 update keeps the original 2017 Liaocheng travel notes intact and natural in English. It is useful for halal food in China, Chinese Muslim food, China Muslim travel tips, and old mosque routes in Shandong.

On February 18, 2017, I went to the Dongguan area of Liaocheng, Shandong, to explore and eat.

The Hui Muslim district in Dongguan, Liaocheng.

After the Yuan Dynasty moved its capital to Beijing, the army relied on supplies from the south. Shipping grain by sea from the Jiangnan region was often dangerous, so in 1289 (the 26th year of the Zhiyuan era), Emperor Kublai Khan ordered the construction of the Huitong River from Xucheng, Shandong, to Linqing. This connected the Grand Canal from north to south, and Liaocheng, located along the Huitong River, quickly became a major canal hub. Starting in the Yuan Dynasty, Dongguan, which connected the city to the canal, became the busiest area in Liaocheng. Hui Muslims kept moving here to settle, eventually forming the Dongguan Hui Muslim district.

In 1372 (the fifth year of the Hongwu era of the Ming Dynasty), the earthen walls of Dongchang (Liaocheng) were rebuilt with bricks. In 1420 (the 18th year of the Yongle era), Emperor Zhu Di moved the capital to Beijing and relied heavily on the Grand Canal to transport grain from the south. Liaocheng entered its golden age, and the large and small mosques in Dongguan were built during the Hongwu and Yongle eras.

In 1855 (the fifth year of the Xianfeng era), the Yellow River burst its banks at Tongwaxian in Henan. It split into three paths, diverted northeast, and flowed into the sea via the Daqing River, cutting the canal in half and causing Liaocheng to decline. Since the mid-to-late Qing Dynasty, the Liaocheng section of the canal relied on water from the Yellow River. After the breach at Tongwaxian, the Yellow River flooded several more times. The canal in Liaocheng became increasingly silted, the river course changed frequently, and water transport became more difficult. In 1872 (the 11th year of the Tongzhi era), the China Merchants' Steam Navigation Company was established in Shanghai, and grain transport began moving to sea routes. In 1901 (the 27th year of the Guangxu era), canal transport was completely abandoned, and Liaocheng fell silent along with the silted canal.

Eating breakfast in Dongguan, Liaocheng.

Dongguan in Liaocheng has all kinds of delicious breakfast foods. We first ate Liang's fried cakes (zhagao) outside Dongguan Bridge. They come in several flavors like white sugar and red bean paste. We chose the osmanthus and white sugar filling; they were large and delicious.







Then we went to Yishunzhai Steamed Bun Shop for large steamed buns (baozi) with pure lamb filling. The buns were huge and cost two yuan each. One was enough to be full, and two left me stuffed for the whole day!









Next to Yishunzhai Steamed Bun Shop is Jiang's Black Old Man Roasted Snacks (chaohuo). We bought peanuts here and finished them all on the train ride back. They were very flavorful with a rich aroma from various spices.





We also bought beef jerky at Dou's Deli. The beef was completely air-dried with no moisture left. It was crispy when you bit into it, so you had to let it soften in your mouth before chewing. The flavor changed from the first bite to the last, and it needed to be savored slowly.







There were many other delicious things in Dongguan that we didn't have time to try.











Canal docks.

Walking south along the canal from Dongguan in Liaocheng, there are two docks, one large and one small. The large dock was the official transport dock, also called Chongwu Station Dock. Back then, the ships waiting to unload stretched for miles, a scene known as 'Chongwu's continuous masts'. The small dock was originally a private dock for merchants. These two spots are precious relics of the Grand Canal in the Liaocheng urban area.

Small dock.



Large dock.



The scenery of the Liaocheng section of the Grand Canal.



Rice Market Street (Mishi Jie)

South of East Gate Street (Dongguan Jie) is the Rice Market Street (Mishi Jie) historical district. It is paved with blue stone and is one of the few remaining historical districts in the old city of Liaocheng. This area used to be full of grain shops. At its peak, there were dozens of them. The street was busy every day with constant traffic and crowds of people.

Later, I saw a design rendering of Rice Market Street (Mishi Jie) at the Grand Canal Museum. Perhaps it will soon become a faux-antique commercial street, and its original character will disappear.





















Big and Small Mosques

There are two mosques in the East Gate (Dongguan) area of Liaocheng. The West Mosque (Qingzhen Xisi) is commonly known as the Big Mosque (Da Libaisi). It was first built in 1385 (the 17th year of the Hongwu reign) and was renovated twice during the Jiajing and Kangxi reigns. The original main hall had 81 rooms, and the beams and purlins were all made of golden nanmu wood. It was magnificent and could compare with those in Jining and Linqing.

In the winter of 1946, the People's Liberation Army attacked Liaocheng and used the mosque's minaret (bangkelou) as an observation post to fire at the Nationalist troops inside the city. The West Mosque (Qingzhen Xisi) also became a command post for the People's Liberation Army. People say the People's Liberation Army dug a tunnel underwater on the east bank of the moat toward the city. They laid door panels on top and supported them with pillars. They dug through the city wall near the East Gate and opened a hole, but the Nationalist troops discovered it and blocked the opening with sandbags.

The Liaocheng city wall was high and thick, and the moat was wide and deep. The People's Liberation Army could not break into the city and had to stop the siege. Afterward, the Nationalist troops left the city and set fire to it, burning down the buildings inside the mosque.

The West Mosque (Qingzhen Xisi) was not rebuilt until 1956. During the Cultural Revolution (wg), it was occupied by a factory, and it was renovated in 1992. The main hall was rebuilt into its current appearance in 2009. Now, only the main gate and the north and south lecture halls remain as historical buildings.



















The East Mosque (Qingzhen Dongsi) in the East Gate (Dongguan) area of Liaocheng is commonly known as the Small Mosque (Xiao Libaisi). It was built during the Yongle reign of the Ming Dynasty (around 1405) and was commissioned by the Dongchang Prefecture garrison commander, Bai Lin. It was renovated during the Jiaqing, Xianfeng, and Guangxu reigns, and was rebuilt in 2002.

















The Big and Small Mosque Street (Daxiao Libaisi Jie) historical district, located north of East Gate Road (Dongguan Lu) in Liaocheng, has been demolished more severely than Rice Market Street (Mishi Jie), but it has not been completely flattened like the area inside the city.

















Clear broth meatballs (qingcuan wanzi)

At noon, I ate clear broth meatballs (qingcuan wanzi), steamed egg custard (jidan gao), and egg pancakes (jidan bing) at Jiang Erbao's clear broth meatball shop in the East Gate (Dongguan) area of Liaocheng. A small bowl of clear broth meatballs (qingcuan wanzi) costs 6 yuan and contains 22 lamb meatballs. They are very tender, unlike the meatballs in Beijing, which are larger. Sprinkling a little pepper makes them very comforting to eat in winter, and the sesame oil is also very fragrant. A large bowl of steamed egg custard (jidan gao) uses at least 3 eggs and only costs 3 yuan. I have liked steamed egg custard since I was a child, and it really suits my taste.













Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: This Muslim travel guide China 2026 update keeps the original 2017 Liaocheng travel notes intact and natural in English. It is useful for halal food in China, Chinese Muslim food, China Muslim travel tips, and old mosque routes in Shandong.

On February 18, 2017, I went to the Dongguan area of Liaocheng, Shandong, to explore and eat.

The Hui Muslim district in Dongguan, Liaocheng.

After the Yuan Dynasty moved its capital to Beijing, the army relied on supplies from the south. Shipping grain by sea from the Jiangnan region was often dangerous, so in 1289 (the 26th year of the Zhiyuan era), Emperor Kublai Khan ordered the construction of the Huitong River from Xucheng, Shandong, to Linqing. This connected the Grand Canal from north to south, and Liaocheng, located along the Huitong River, quickly became a major canal hub. Starting in the Yuan Dynasty, Dongguan, which connected the city to the canal, became the busiest area in Liaocheng. Hui Muslims kept moving here to settle, eventually forming the Dongguan Hui Muslim district.

In 1372 (the fifth year of the Hongwu era of the Ming Dynasty), the earthen walls of Dongchang (Liaocheng) were rebuilt with bricks. In 1420 (the 18th year of the Yongle era), Emperor Zhu Di moved the capital to Beijing and relied heavily on the Grand Canal to transport grain from the south. Liaocheng entered its golden age, and the large and small mosques in Dongguan were built during the Hongwu and Yongle eras.

In 1855 (the fifth year of the Xianfeng era), the Yellow River burst its banks at Tongwaxian in Henan. It split into three paths, diverted northeast, and flowed into the sea via the Daqing River, cutting the canal in half and causing Liaocheng to decline. Since the mid-to-late Qing Dynasty, the Liaocheng section of the canal relied on water from the Yellow River. After the breach at Tongwaxian, the Yellow River flooded several more times. The canal in Liaocheng became increasingly silted, the river course changed frequently, and water transport became more difficult. In 1872 (the 11th year of the Tongzhi era), the China Merchants' Steam Navigation Company was established in Shanghai, and grain transport began moving to sea routes. In 1901 (the 27th year of the Guangxu era), canal transport was completely abandoned, and Liaocheng fell silent along with the silted canal.

Eating breakfast in Dongguan, Liaocheng.

Dongguan in Liaocheng has all kinds of delicious breakfast foods. We first ate Liang's fried cakes (zhagao) outside Dongguan Bridge. They come in several flavors like white sugar and red bean paste. We chose the osmanthus and white sugar filling; they were large and delicious.







Then we went to Yishunzhai Steamed Bun Shop for large steamed buns (baozi) with pure lamb filling. The buns were huge and cost two yuan each. One was enough to be full, and two left me stuffed for the whole day!









Next to Yishunzhai Steamed Bun Shop is Jiang's Black Old Man Roasted Snacks (chaohuo). We bought peanuts here and finished them all on the train ride back. They were very flavorful with a rich aroma from various spices.





We also bought beef jerky at Dou's Deli. The beef was completely air-dried with no moisture left. It was crispy when you bit into it, so you had to let it soften in your mouth before chewing. The flavor changed from the first bite to the last, and it needed to be savored slowly.







There were many other delicious things in Dongguan that we didn't have time to try.











Canal docks.

Walking south along the canal from Dongguan in Liaocheng, there are two docks, one large and one small. The large dock was the official transport dock, also called Chongwu Station Dock. Back then, the ships waiting to unload stretched for miles, a scene known as 'Chongwu's continuous masts'. The small dock was originally a private dock for merchants. These two spots are precious relics of the Grand Canal in the Liaocheng urban area.

Small dock.



Large dock.



The scenery of the Liaocheng section of the Grand Canal.



Rice Market Street (Mishi Jie)

South of East Gate Street (Dongguan Jie) is the Rice Market Street (Mishi Jie) historical district. It is paved with blue stone and is one of the few remaining historical districts in the old city of Liaocheng. This area used to be full of grain shops. At its peak, there were dozens of them. The street was busy every day with constant traffic and crowds of people.

Later, I saw a design rendering of Rice Market Street (Mishi Jie) at the Grand Canal Museum. Perhaps it will soon become a faux-antique commercial street, and its original character will disappear.





















Big and Small Mosques

There are two mosques in the East Gate (Dongguan) area of Liaocheng. The West Mosque (Qingzhen Xisi) is commonly known as the Big Mosque (Da Libaisi). It was first built in 1385 (the 17th year of the Hongwu reign) and was renovated twice during the Jiajing and Kangxi reigns. The original main hall had 81 rooms, and the beams and purlins were all made of golden nanmu wood. It was magnificent and could compare with those in Jining and Linqing.

In the winter of 1946, the People's Liberation Army attacked Liaocheng and used the mosque's minaret (bangkelou) as an observation post to fire at the Nationalist troops inside the city. The West Mosque (Qingzhen Xisi) also became a command post for the People's Liberation Army. People say the People's Liberation Army dug a tunnel underwater on the east bank of the moat toward the city. They laid door panels on top and supported them with pillars. They dug through the city wall near the East Gate and opened a hole, but the Nationalist troops discovered it and blocked the opening with sandbags.

The Liaocheng city wall was high and thick, and the moat was wide and deep. The People's Liberation Army could not break into the city and had to stop the siege. Afterward, the Nationalist troops left the city and set fire to it, burning down the buildings inside the mosque.

The West Mosque (Qingzhen Xisi) was not rebuilt until 1956. During the Cultural Revolution (wg), it was occupied by a factory, and it was renovated in 1992. The main hall was rebuilt into its current appearance in 2009. Now, only the main gate and the north and south lecture halls remain as historical buildings.



















The East Mosque (Qingzhen Dongsi) in the East Gate (Dongguan) area of Liaocheng is commonly known as the Small Mosque (Xiao Libaisi). It was built during the Yongle reign of the Ming Dynasty (around 1405) and was commissioned by the Dongchang Prefecture garrison commander, Bai Lin. It was renovated during the Jiaqing, Xianfeng, and Guangxu reigns, and was rebuilt in 2002.

















The Big and Small Mosque Street (Daxiao Libaisi Jie) historical district, located north of East Gate Road (Dongguan Lu) in Liaocheng, has been demolished more severely than Rice Market Street (Mishi Jie), but it has not been completely flattened like the area inside the city.

















Clear broth meatballs (qingcuan wanzi)

At noon, I ate clear broth meatballs (qingcuan wanzi), steamed egg custard (jidan gao), and egg pancakes (jidan bing) at Jiang Erbao's clear broth meatball shop in the East Gate (Dongguan) area of Liaocheng. A small bowl of clear broth meatballs (qingcuan wanzi) costs 6 yuan and contains 22 lamb meatballs. They are very tender, unlike the meatballs in Beijing, which are larger. Sprinkling a little pepper makes them very comforting to eat in winter, and the sesame oil is also very fragrant. A large bowl of steamed egg custard (jidan gao) uses at least 3 eggs and only costs 3 yuan. I have liked steamed egg custard since I was a child, and it really suits my taste.













Collapse Read »

China Muslim Travel Tips Shandong Linqing: Canal Mosques, Hui Streets and Muslim Heritage

Reposted from the web

Summary: This China Muslim travel tips article keeps the original 2017 Linqing route and details intact. It also helps readers looking for Muslim travel guide China 2026, halal food in China, Chinese Muslim food, and canal-side mosque heritage in Shandong.

On February 18, 2017, I went to Linqing, Shandong, to explore and eat.

Linqing Hui Muslims

After the Yuan Dynasty established its capital in Dadu, it relied on supplies from the south. However, shipping grain from the Jiangnan region by sea was often dangerous. In 1289 (the 26th year of the Zhiyuan era), Kublai Khan ordered the construction of the Huitong River from Xucheng, Shandong, to Linqing to connect the northern and southern sections of the Grand Canal. Linqing, where the Huitong River met the existing Yongji Canal of the Sui and Tang Grand Canal, suddenly became a canal hub and the backbone and throat of the Grand Canal. It was from this time that Hui Muslims began to move to Linqing one after another.

In 1373 (the 6th year of the Hongwu era of the Ming Dynasty), the Linqing granary was established. In 1450 (the 1st year of the Jingtai era), a brick city was built on the north bank of the Huitong River, based on the Guangji Granary. At that time, in the southwest of Linqing city, an area called Zhongzhou, surrounded by two tributaries of the Wei and Wen rivers, was the most prosperous commercial district in Linqing. Zhongzhou was traversed from north to south by a long street, divided into Pot Market Street (Guoshi Jie), Blue Bowl Market Street (Qingwanshi Jie), and Horse Market Street (Mashi Jie). This was also the area where Hui Muslims in Linqing were most concentrated.















In 1542 (the 21st year of the Jiajing era of the Ming Dynasty), the earthen city of Linqing was expanded to five times its original size, and Zhongzhou was incorporated into the city of Linqing.







Halal food

A wonderful trip starts with food. In the morning, I had lamb offal soup (yangza tang) at Qian's Lamb Soup north of Aotouji in Linqing. A small bowl there is as big as a large bowl in Beijing. The lamb soup was delicious and packed with ingredients. It was fun to hear the sizzling sound when pouring chili oil over the soup; the chili wasn't spicy but very fragrant. This was also my first time having lamb offal soup that included lamb brain.











At Baoliang's First Pancake-Wrapped Meat (Baoliang Diyi Jia Bingjuanrou), I ordered braised butterfly fish head and pancake-wrapped meat (bingjuanrou). Honestly, their braised dishes completely beat every halal restaurant in Beijing. Both Teacher Hua and I were shocked, and we continued to be disappointed with Beijing food. The pancake-wrapped meat was 15 yuan per piece, and the portion was huge—so satisfying!



Food cooked over a firewood fire is just more fragrant.











In the evening, I had the three-delicacy potstickers (sanxian guotie) at the first restaurant I visited in Linqing, and they were amazing! I can say it is the best Shandong restaurant I have ever eaten at. It completely beats the Beijing-Shandong dishes I often eat in Beijing. The portions are huge—one dish is equal to three in Beijing—and it is very cheap. The iron-plate tofu (tieban doufu) was incredible. The Japanese-style tofu was filled with sea cucumber and shrimp, served over a layer of fried eggs. The sesame lamb (zhima yangrou) was so good it made me want to cry. I have been looking for this way of cooking it in Beijing for a long time. A steamer of 30 beef and fennel potstickers (niurou huixiang guotie) was packed with filling. After eating, I didn't even want to go back to Beijing.

















Mosque

The North Mosque (Qingzhen Beisi) in Linqing is one of the grandest in Shandong, rivaling the East Mosque in Jining. It was first built during the Hongzhi reign of the Ming Dynasty and underwent three major renovations in 1564 (the 43rd year of the Jiajing reign), 1779 (the 44th year of the Qianlong reign), and 1809 (the 14th year of the Jiaqing reign). It was undergoing repairs when I visited.

The cover of the book "Mosques of Shandong" (Shandong Qingzhensi).













































The East Mosque (Qingzhen Dongsi) in Linqing was first built in 1465 (the first year of the Chenghua reign of the Ming Dynasty). It closed for major renovations in 2013, so I only saw the exterior this time.











Women's Mosque (Qingzhen Nüsi)

The Women's Mosque (Qingzhen Nüsi) in Linqing was founded during the Republic of China era. It became a wholesale market warehouse after the 1980s and was rebuilt in 2010.





The Linqing section of the Grand Canal.

There are three sections of the Grand Canal in Linqing, created during the Sui, Yuan, and Ming dynasties respectively.

In 608 (the fourth year of the Daye reign of the Sui Dynasty), Emperor Yang of Sui opened the Yongji Canal. This marked the beginning of the Linqing section of the Grand Canal. After the Five Dynasties period, the Yellow River flooded repeatedly, causing the Yongji Canal to silt up and the river course to shift eastward. This formed the later Imperial River (Yuhe), also known as the Wei River (Weihe).



In 1289 (the 26th year of the Zhiyuan reign of the Yuan Dynasty), Kublai Khan ordered the construction of the Huitong Canal from Xucheng in Shandong to Linqing to connect the northern and southern parts of the Grand Canal. Because its water source came from the Wen River, this section was also called the Wen River (Wenshui).





In 1391 (the 24th year of the Hongwu reign of the Ming Dynasty), the Yellow River breached its banks at Yuanwu in Henan, destroying a large part of the Huitong Canal. In 1417 (the 15th year of the Yongle reign), the Earl of Pingjiang, Chen Xuan, excavated the new southern branch of the river in Linqing. From then on, the Yuan Dynasty Huitong Canal was called the old northern branch.

The new southern branch of the Ming Dynasty.





Using Aotouji as the meeting point for the Yuan and Ming canals, the old Yuan canal had the Linqing Lock and Huitong Lock, while the new Ming canal had the Ban Lock and Zhuan Lock. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, the Sky Bridge (Tianqiao) and Yuejing Bridge were built over the old Yuan canal. Together with the canal tax office, these formed the site cluster for water transport in Linqing.

Aotouji.

Aotouji is a stone promontory that juts out of the water where the old Yuan Dynasty Huitong Canal and the new Ming Dynasty canal meet. It bears the inscription "Du Zhan" (Sole Occupancy) by Ma Lun, a Ming Dynasty magistrate of Linqing.



Linqing Lock.

The Linqing Lock was the first ship lock where the Yuan Dynasty Huitong Canal flowed into the Wei River, built in 1296 (the second year of the Yuanzhen reign of the Yuan Dynasty). After the new southern branch was built in 1417 (the 15th year of the Yongle reign of the Ming Dynasty), the Linqing Lock was converted into a bridge by using its piers to support an arch. It was named Wenjin Bridge during repairs in the Chongzhen reign.

Chapter 81 of "The Golden Lotus" (Jin Ping Mei) writes: "Han Daoguo returned from Jiangnan with goods. One day, he arrived at the Linqing Lock and was standing on the bow of the boat when he suddenly saw his neighbor, the Fourth Young Master Yan, coming from upstream on a boat to meet an official in Linqing."





Huitong Lock.

The Huitong Lock was built in 1293 (the 30th year of the Zhiyuan reign of the Yuan Dynasty). It operated in conjunction with the Linqing Lock and was an important water conservancy project on the Yuan Dynasty Huitong Canal. After the new southern branch of the Ming Dynasty was built in 1417 (the 15th year of the Yongle reign), the Huitong Lock was converted into the Huitong Bridge.



Sky Bridge (Tianqiao).

Historically known as the Yongji Bridge, the Sky Bridge was built in 1485 (the 20th year of the Chenghua reign of the Ming Dynasty). It was rebuilt during the Jiajing reign, and a new Sky Bridge was built next to it in 1958. The bridge base and bridge wings of the old Tianqiao still remain today.



Yuejing Bridge

In 1652 (the ninth year of the Shunzhi reign), a merchant named Shao Yishu donated money to build Yuejing Bridge between Wenjin Bridge and Huitong Bridge, which is commonly known as Pigeon Bridge.





Brick Sluice (Zhuanzha)

The Brick Sluice was located on the southern branch of the New River. It was first built in 1417 (the fifteenth year of the Yongle reign of the Ming Dynasty) and is also known as the New Open Sluice, or commonly as the Second Sluice. It was rebuilt in 1513 (the eighth year of the Zhengde reign of the Ming Dynasty), when the brick sluice was changed to a stone weir. It connected with the South Board Sluice (First Sluice), where the southern branch of the New River flows into the Wei River. By opening and closing in sequence, they formed two ship locks on the canal, serving as the control hub and vital passage for canal boats. After the Ministry of Works Water Division was abolished in 1526 (the fifth year of the Jiajing reign of the Ming Dynasty), the Brick Sluice began collecting two types of taxes called 'short-load' and 'paper price.' This was known as the Ministry of Works Customs. It collected taxes here for 210 years until it was merged into the Ministry of Revenue Customs in 1736 (the first year of the Qianlong reign).



Linqing Customs (Linqing Chaoguan)

The Linqing Canal Customs was an agency under the Ministry of Revenue specifically for taxing merchant ships on the canal. The Linqing Customs was the first canal customs office to be established and the last to be closed. It was set up in 1429 (the fourth year of the Xuande reign of the Ming Dynasty) and operated for nearly 500 years.

In 1597 (the twenty-fifth year of the Wanli reign of the Ming Dynasty), it collected over 117,000 taels of silver in taxes, which accounted for one-quarter of all tax silver from canal customs. In contrast, the total tax revenue for Shandong Province in 1578 (the sixth year of the Wanli reign) was only about 8,800 taels, which was less than one-tenth of what the Linqing Customs collected.

Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: This China Muslim travel tips article keeps the original 2017 Linqing route and details intact. It also helps readers looking for Muslim travel guide China 2026, halal food in China, Chinese Muslim food, and canal-side mosque heritage in Shandong.

On February 18, 2017, I went to Linqing, Shandong, to explore and eat.

Linqing Hui Muslims

After the Yuan Dynasty established its capital in Dadu, it relied on supplies from the south. However, shipping grain from the Jiangnan region by sea was often dangerous. In 1289 (the 26th year of the Zhiyuan era), Kublai Khan ordered the construction of the Huitong River from Xucheng, Shandong, to Linqing to connect the northern and southern sections of the Grand Canal. Linqing, where the Huitong River met the existing Yongji Canal of the Sui and Tang Grand Canal, suddenly became a canal hub and the backbone and throat of the Grand Canal. It was from this time that Hui Muslims began to move to Linqing one after another.

In 1373 (the 6th year of the Hongwu era of the Ming Dynasty), the Linqing granary was established. In 1450 (the 1st year of the Jingtai era), a brick city was built on the north bank of the Huitong River, based on the Guangji Granary. At that time, in the southwest of Linqing city, an area called Zhongzhou, surrounded by two tributaries of the Wei and Wen rivers, was the most prosperous commercial district in Linqing. Zhongzhou was traversed from north to south by a long street, divided into Pot Market Street (Guoshi Jie), Blue Bowl Market Street (Qingwanshi Jie), and Horse Market Street (Mashi Jie). This was also the area where Hui Muslims in Linqing were most concentrated.















In 1542 (the 21st year of the Jiajing era of the Ming Dynasty), the earthen city of Linqing was expanded to five times its original size, and Zhongzhou was incorporated into the city of Linqing.







Halal food

A wonderful trip starts with food. In the morning, I had lamb offal soup (yangza tang) at Qian's Lamb Soup north of Aotouji in Linqing. A small bowl there is as big as a large bowl in Beijing. The lamb soup was delicious and packed with ingredients. It was fun to hear the sizzling sound when pouring chili oil over the soup; the chili wasn't spicy but very fragrant. This was also my first time having lamb offal soup that included lamb brain.











At Baoliang's First Pancake-Wrapped Meat (Baoliang Diyi Jia Bingjuanrou), I ordered braised butterfly fish head and pancake-wrapped meat (bingjuanrou). Honestly, their braised dishes completely beat every halal restaurant in Beijing. Both Teacher Hua and I were shocked, and we continued to be disappointed with Beijing food. The pancake-wrapped meat was 15 yuan per piece, and the portion was huge—so satisfying!



Food cooked over a firewood fire is just more fragrant.











In the evening, I had the three-delicacy potstickers (sanxian guotie) at the first restaurant I visited in Linqing, and they were amazing! I can say it is the best Shandong restaurant I have ever eaten at. It completely beats the Beijing-Shandong dishes I often eat in Beijing. The portions are huge—one dish is equal to three in Beijing—and it is very cheap. The iron-plate tofu (tieban doufu) was incredible. The Japanese-style tofu was filled with sea cucumber and shrimp, served over a layer of fried eggs. The sesame lamb (zhima yangrou) was so good it made me want to cry. I have been looking for this way of cooking it in Beijing for a long time. A steamer of 30 beef and fennel potstickers (niurou huixiang guotie) was packed with filling. After eating, I didn't even want to go back to Beijing.

















Mosque

The North Mosque (Qingzhen Beisi) in Linqing is one of the grandest in Shandong, rivaling the East Mosque in Jining. It was first built during the Hongzhi reign of the Ming Dynasty and underwent three major renovations in 1564 (the 43rd year of the Jiajing reign), 1779 (the 44th year of the Qianlong reign), and 1809 (the 14th year of the Jiaqing reign). It was undergoing repairs when I visited.

The cover of the book "Mosques of Shandong" (Shandong Qingzhensi).













































The East Mosque (Qingzhen Dongsi) in Linqing was first built in 1465 (the first year of the Chenghua reign of the Ming Dynasty). It closed for major renovations in 2013, so I only saw the exterior this time.











Women's Mosque (Qingzhen Nüsi)

The Women's Mosque (Qingzhen Nüsi) in Linqing was founded during the Republic of China era. It became a wholesale market warehouse after the 1980s and was rebuilt in 2010.





The Linqing section of the Grand Canal.

There are three sections of the Grand Canal in Linqing, created during the Sui, Yuan, and Ming dynasties respectively.

In 608 (the fourth year of the Daye reign of the Sui Dynasty), Emperor Yang of Sui opened the Yongji Canal. This marked the beginning of the Linqing section of the Grand Canal. After the Five Dynasties period, the Yellow River flooded repeatedly, causing the Yongji Canal to silt up and the river course to shift eastward. This formed the later Imperial River (Yuhe), also known as the Wei River (Weihe).



In 1289 (the 26th year of the Zhiyuan reign of the Yuan Dynasty), Kublai Khan ordered the construction of the Huitong Canal from Xucheng in Shandong to Linqing to connect the northern and southern parts of the Grand Canal. Because its water source came from the Wen River, this section was also called the Wen River (Wenshui).





In 1391 (the 24th year of the Hongwu reign of the Ming Dynasty), the Yellow River breached its banks at Yuanwu in Henan, destroying a large part of the Huitong Canal. In 1417 (the 15th year of the Yongle reign), the Earl of Pingjiang, Chen Xuan, excavated the new southern branch of the river in Linqing. From then on, the Yuan Dynasty Huitong Canal was called the old northern branch.

The new southern branch of the Ming Dynasty.





Using Aotouji as the meeting point for the Yuan and Ming canals, the old Yuan canal had the Linqing Lock and Huitong Lock, while the new Ming canal had the Ban Lock and Zhuan Lock. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, the Sky Bridge (Tianqiao) and Yuejing Bridge were built over the old Yuan canal. Together with the canal tax office, these formed the site cluster for water transport in Linqing.

Aotouji.

Aotouji is a stone promontory that juts out of the water where the old Yuan Dynasty Huitong Canal and the new Ming Dynasty canal meet. It bears the inscription "Du Zhan" (Sole Occupancy) by Ma Lun, a Ming Dynasty magistrate of Linqing.



Linqing Lock.

The Linqing Lock was the first ship lock where the Yuan Dynasty Huitong Canal flowed into the Wei River, built in 1296 (the second year of the Yuanzhen reign of the Yuan Dynasty). After the new southern branch was built in 1417 (the 15th year of the Yongle reign of the Ming Dynasty), the Linqing Lock was converted into a bridge by using its piers to support an arch. It was named Wenjin Bridge during repairs in the Chongzhen reign.

Chapter 81 of "The Golden Lotus" (Jin Ping Mei) writes: "Han Daoguo returned from Jiangnan with goods. One day, he arrived at the Linqing Lock and was standing on the bow of the boat when he suddenly saw his neighbor, the Fourth Young Master Yan, coming from upstream on a boat to meet an official in Linqing."





Huitong Lock.

The Huitong Lock was built in 1293 (the 30th year of the Zhiyuan reign of the Yuan Dynasty). It operated in conjunction with the Linqing Lock and was an important water conservancy project on the Yuan Dynasty Huitong Canal. After the new southern branch of the Ming Dynasty was built in 1417 (the 15th year of the Yongle reign), the Huitong Lock was converted into the Huitong Bridge.



Sky Bridge (Tianqiao).

Historically known as the Yongji Bridge, the Sky Bridge was built in 1485 (the 20th year of the Chenghua reign of the Ming Dynasty). It was rebuilt during the Jiajing reign, and a new Sky Bridge was built next to it in 1958. The bridge base and bridge wings of the old Tianqiao still remain today.



Yuejing Bridge

In 1652 (the ninth year of the Shunzhi reign), a merchant named Shao Yishu donated money to build Yuejing Bridge between Wenjin Bridge and Huitong Bridge, which is commonly known as Pigeon Bridge.





Brick Sluice (Zhuanzha)

The Brick Sluice was located on the southern branch of the New River. It was first built in 1417 (the fifteenth year of the Yongle reign of the Ming Dynasty) and is also known as the New Open Sluice, or commonly as the Second Sluice. It was rebuilt in 1513 (the eighth year of the Zhengde reign of the Ming Dynasty), when the brick sluice was changed to a stone weir. It connected with the South Board Sluice (First Sluice), where the southern branch of the New River flows into the Wei River. By opening and closing in sequence, they formed two ship locks on the canal, serving as the control hub and vital passage for canal boats. After the Ministry of Works Water Division was abolished in 1526 (the fifth year of the Jiajing reign of the Ming Dynasty), the Brick Sluice began collecting two types of taxes called 'short-load' and 'paper price.' This was known as the Ministry of Works Customs. It collected taxes here for 210 years until it was merged into the Ministry of Revenue Customs in 1736 (the first year of the Qianlong reign).



Linqing Customs (Linqing Chaoguan)

The Linqing Canal Customs was an agency under the Ministry of Revenue specifically for taxing merchant ships on the canal. The Linqing Customs was the first canal customs office to be established and the last to be closed. It was set up in 1429 (the fourth year of the Xuande reign of the Ming Dynasty) and operated for nearly 500 years.

In 1597 (the twenty-fifth year of the Wanli reign of the Ming Dynasty), it collected over 117,000 taels of silver in taxes, which accounted for one-quarter of all tax silver from canal customs. In contrast, the total tax revenue for Shandong Province in 1578 (the sixth year of the Wanli reign) was only about 8,800 taels, which was less than one-tenth of what the Linqing Customs collected.

Collapse Read »

Muslim Travel Guide China Hebei Botou: Old Mosques, Hui Streets and Local Muslim Memories

Reposted from the web

Summary: This Muslim travel guide China 2026 update keeps the original 2017 Botou travel notes intact and readable. It also supports readers searching for halal food in China, Chinese Muslim food, China Muslim travel tips, and local mosque history in Hebei.

On March 25, 2017, I visited the ancient canal town of Botou in Cangzhou, Hebei, to explore its food and culture. The information in this article comes from the History of Botou Canal and the Records of Botou Mosque.

The formation of the Hui Muslim community in Botou

In 1392, the 25th year of the Hongwu reign, the Ming Dynasty set up a canal administration office in Botou to manage shipping between Tianjin and Dezhou, and Botou gradually became an important canal town. In 1399, the first year of the Jianwen reign, during the Jingnan Campaign, Prince Yan Zhu Di attacked and captured the old city of Cangzhou. He killed thousands of surrendered soldiers and tens of thousands of residents. Eastern Hebei suffered greatly, and Botou was hit hard, causing its population to drop sharply.

In 1404, the second year of the Yongle reign, Zhu Di, who had become the Yongle Emperor, ordered residents to move to Cangzhou. Many Hui Muslims came to Botou as a result. Records show that Hui Muslims with the surnames Yang, Cao, Dai, Hui, Zhang, Wang, and Shi all moved to Botou in 1404 by imperial decree from Erlanggang in Shangyuan County, Yingtian Prefecture, Nanjing. Research suggests that Erlanggang was a camp for Semu people who had surrendered to the Ming from the Yuan Dynasty. The first mosque in Botou was built that same year.

Later, more Hui Muslims moved here from Shandong, Shanxi, and Anhui, and the Botou Hui Muslim community was officially formed. In 1551, the 30th year of the Jiajing reign, Botou began building city walls. They used earth for three sides, and on the east side facing the canal, they added parapets to the houses and opened six city gates. The Hui Muslim community was located inside the south gate. The Botou Mosque underwent large-scale expansion during the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, taking on its current form.











Moon-Sighting Tower (Wangyuelou)































In the eyes of Allah, the most honorable among you is the one who is most pious. (49:13)

















After 1966, the Botou Mosque stopped its activities. Religious staff were publicly denounced, and scriptures were burned. The head of the mosque, Zhang Zizhen, was driven away and passed away the following year. The imam, Ha Fuling, was sent back to his hometown in Xinzhuang, Xian County.

After the denunciations, Jin Laiguang set up a flour mill. Older religious staff worked as millers, and the younger ones went to work in factories. The main hall of the mosque was occupied by an embroidery factory, an oilcloth factory, a straw hat factory, and a sack thread factory as workshops. The water room was used by an agricultural production team as a machine shop. The side gates of the main entrance, the charity school, the side halls, and the south lecture hall all collapsed. The spire of the Moon-Sighting Tower was smashed, its first-floor walls collapsed, and the base walls of the main hall also fell. Eighteen original plaques inscribed by figures like Ji Xiaolan and Zhang Zhidong were lost. Only a damaged plaque reading "Pure and Bright" (Qingzhen Guangming), inscribed by the 75th Duke Yansheng, Kong Xiangke, in 1864, the third year of the Tongzhi reign, was found. In 1982, a calligrapher repaired the damaged parts based on the original style.



On the canal bank directly east of the Botou Mosque, there used to be a brick and wood archway, commonly known by locals as the Big Round Gate (Dayuanmen), with the words "Muslim Lane" (Qingzhen Xiang) written on it. In 1953, a major flood on the canal led to the demolition of the Big Round Gate to block the riverbank. In the old days, Hui Muslim merchant ships traveling on the canal knew they had reached the Hui Muslim residential area as soon as they saw the "Muslim Lane" plaque.

There was once a stone archway next to the Big Round Gate that collapsed in the 1960s. When the Botou Mosque was rebuilt in 1982, two stone lintels from the top of the archway were moved to the mosque's main hall to serve as a foundation. The left side featured a dragon head and phoenix tail, and the right side featured a qilin delivering a child.







The women's mosque was built in 1953. It was originally the Huizhen Production Cooperative, built under the leadership of Imam Zhang Zizhen, and was rebuilt in 1993.





Halal food

During the Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China era, the most famous halal restaurants in Botou were Taihe Restaurant on Shunhe Street, which opened during the Tongzhi reign, and Shunfu Restaurant and Xingshenghe on Gulou Street, which opened during the Guangxu reign. Xiyu Restaurant was on East Street. The small and medium-sized restaurants around Shunhe Street were all halal, offering a wide variety of halal snacks.

Taihe Restaurant opened in 1870 (the ninth year of the Tongzhi reign). It was founded by Hui Muslim brothers Dai Ruiwu and Dai Bin. The building had the shop in the front and the restaurant in the back, with both open seating and private rooms, including standard and premium options. The menu focused on beef, lamb, fish, and shrimp. Dishes included clear-stewed beef, oil-fried tripe, braised cabbage, stir-fried lamb brains, stir-fried shrimp, stewed beef tongue and tail, braised beef tendon, and sweet and sour fish. The third-generation chef, Dai Shengheng, went to Tianjin in 1921 at age 15 to apprentice at the halal Hongbinlou Restaurant. He learned to cook elaborate whole-lamb feasts and river seafood. After returning to the restaurant, he became the head chef. He cooked high-end dishes like shark fin, bird's nest, and whole lamb, as well as home-style dishes like stir-fried, braised, and stewed beef and lamb. His signature dishes included deboned chicken, deboned fish, steamed chicken, candied peaches (basi tao), braised cabbage, various sweet dishes, and oil-poached sauces. His shredded meat noodle soup was considered the best. The noodles in Taihe Restaurant's shredded meat noodle soup were thin and translucent like silk threads, and the shredded meat was as thin as bean sprouts. The soup came in chicken or meatball varieties, served with large broad beans, preserved vegetables (nancai), wood ear mushrooms, and fried tofu puffs. It tasted delicious.

In 1937, Dai Shengheng went to Jinan to open the new Majia Restaurant, and Taihe Restaurant closed.

Xingshenghe Maji was founded during the Guangxu reign by Hui Muslim Ma Chunbo. It was located on Gulou Street outside Chaoyang Gate and was famous for its five-spice roast beef. Ma's roast meat contained no beef fat or mixed scraps. Before roasting, the meat was soaked in cold water for several hours to remove blood. It was seasoned with five spices: cinnamon, star anise, Sichuan peppercorns, fennel seeds, and cloves. No soy sauce or sugar coloring was used. It was simmered in old broth over low heat for six hours. When finished, it was sweet, moist, and brownish-red, with a chewy texture that held together. It could stay fresh for three to five days.

Before 1937, Ma Doutai, a Hui Muslim from Xinzhuang in Xian County, came to Gulou Street in Botou to open the Juxingheng Pastry Shop. It had the shop in the front and the factory in the back. They offered over 20 varieties of pastries that were sweet, salty, fragrant, soft, and crispy. They used various fillings like red hawthorn, white sugar, date paste, and red bean paste, making it the most famous halal pastry shop in Botou.

After 1937, 19 halal restaurants opened in Botou, nine of which were on Sanfu Street. The larger restaurants included Enshunlou, Qingzhen Restaurant, Fushun Restaurant, and Enyishun. Their signature dishes included braised sea cucumber, braised fish, steamed duck, and eight-treasure rice (babao fan). Eight-treasure rice is a sweet dish. The main ingredient is glutinous rice, supplemented with green silk, colorful cakes, lotus seeds, water chestnuts, melon strips, walnut kernels, raisins, and melon seeds. The rice is first made into a sticky consistency and mixed with white sugar. Then, the toppings are added, creating a colorful and uniquely shaped dish.



Lamb offal (yangzasui)



Stewed free-range chicken (dun benji)



Braised lamb offal (hui yangza)



Egg rolls (danjuan)



The pastries at this shop were all sourced from Tianjin.



















Hui Muslims and the Grand Canal

Local shipping in Botou was mainly operated by Hui Muslims. The trade was divided into two groups: those who worked on the boats and those who owned the boats. Those who worked on the boats were the crew and trackers. Those who owned the boats were the boat owners, divided into those who owned large boats for renting out or hiring labor, and those who used their own small boats. Some small boat owners operated ferries for passengers, some transported fertilizer for riverside villages, and others ran long-distance transport routes from Tianjin in the north to Xinxiang, Henan in the south. The trough boats (caozichuan) used for long-distance transport were flat, long, and wide, with a shallow draft.

Long-distance boats from Botou carried salt south and returned with cotton, coal, and porcelain. The trip from Tianjin to Dezhou took eight or nine days, to Linqing took half a month, and to Daokou Town in Henan took over forty days.

In 1946, there were 31 Hui Muslim boat-owning households in Botou, primarily from the Shi, Li, Cao, Duo, and Mu families. Later, because the canal became heavily silted, the Mu family moved to Tianjin and switched to sea shipping. By July 1948, Botou had 231 wooden boats.



Trackers were at the bottom of the shipping industry. Boat owners chose the number of trackers based on the boat's size and cargo capacity, usually five or six, though some trips used as few as one or two, or as many as over ten. When traveling downstream, trackers stayed on the boat to row; when traveling upstream, they went ashore to pull the boat. When pulling, they used a main tow rope attached to a chest pad worn diagonally across the chest. The tracker at the front and the one at the back controlled the direction to keep the boat straight. When passing under a bridge, they had to unhook the rope. The boatmen on board would call out signals to the lead tracker, and they would reattach the rope to continue after passing the bridge.

During the voyage, trackers followed a schedule of three tea breaks and four meals a day. They started the boat at 5:00 a.m., ate breakfast at 8:00 or 9:00, had their first tea break after traveling a bit, ate lunch at noon, had their second tea break, ate dinner around 4:00 or 5:00 p.m., had their third tea break, and finally ate a late-night snack after docking at dark before resting. The tea for these breaks was usually plain water, and the meals consisted of steamed cornmeal buns (wotou), pickled vegetables, and millet porridge. The stoves on the boats were small, so the steamed cornmeal buns (wotou) came out thin and tall, and you could grab four or five in one hand. Besides this, when they reached Cangzhou, Dezhou, and Linqingzhou, they could have noodles in soup, which they called passing through a prefecture to eat noodles.

There were many types of tracker work songs, with different ones for going downstream, upstream, turning corners, and passing bridges. The head boatman directed the work. He stood at the bow to watch the current, used a pole to adjust the boat's direction, and used work songs to coordinate everyone. A song leader followed the trackers. He did not pull the rope but was responsible for responding to the head boatman's lead vocals. The lyrics included lines like, Big boats carry white grain, small boats carry green bamboo poles; Big boats can dock at Jiujiang port, small boats only rely on the riverbanks. After 1957, wooden boats on the South Canal were replaced by small tugboats, and the canal work songs gradually disappeared. The only person who can sing the full set of Botou canal work songs today is Li Shuyuan, a Hui Muslim born in 1935. He is the fourth-generation descendant of the Li family, a major boat-owning family in Botou. He started working on boats at age 14 and is the last person from those major families who witnessed the glory days of the South Canal.

In 1957, during the public-private partnership transition, Botou's fleets were assigned to Dezhou, Xinxiang, and Tianjin. Botou no longer had its own fleet, and many people left their boats to return to Botou, where they were assigned to brick factories and construction teams. During breaks, these workers would sing the work songs, which became the final echoes of the canal.





Derived from the shipping industry were the porter guilds, commonly known as the heavy lifters. The porter guilds in Botou were mainly Hui Muslims. They usually used a shoulder pole and a shoulder pad. Some families shared handcarts, and when unloading logs, they used levers with large, semicircular iron hooks at the front. At that time, each person carried one 90-kilogram sack of grain or one roll of paper or cardboard weighing over 100 kilograms. They carried four 22.5-kilogram bags of flour at a time. They tracked their work by receiving a bamboo tally for each load and counting them at the end. When lifting heavy items like logs, everyone would sing labor work songs. One person would lead, and the others would follow, creating a rhythmic, powerful, and responsive sound.

During the Republic of China era, there were three Hui Muslim porter groups in Botou. One was the Tongshun Shop porter group, commonly known as the South End porter group. Another was the Wuying porter group, and the third was the Gulou and East Street porter group. The three groups merged in 1947 to become the Wharf Second Labor Union, and in 1958, they became the Second Transport Team.

Before 1965, the Botou section of the Grand Canal had plenty of water. In the early summer of 1965, the canal dried up for the first time. After that, the water level dropped every year. By the first half of the 1970s, it was nearly dry, and shipping in Botou came to an end.









Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: This Muslim travel guide China 2026 update keeps the original 2017 Botou travel notes intact and readable. It also supports readers searching for halal food in China, Chinese Muslim food, China Muslim travel tips, and local mosque history in Hebei.

On March 25, 2017, I visited the ancient canal town of Botou in Cangzhou, Hebei, to explore its food and culture. The information in this article comes from the History of Botou Canal and the Records of Botou Mosque.

The formation of the Hui Muslim community in Botou

In 1392, the 25th year of the Hongwu reign, the Ming Dynasty set up a canal administration office in Botou to manage shipping between Tianjin and Dezhou, and Botou gradually became an important canal town. In 1399, the first year of the Jianwen reign, during the Jingnan Campaign, Prince Yan Zhu Di attacked and captured the old city of Cangzhou. He killed thousands of surrendered soldiers and tens of thousands of residents. Eastern Hebei suffered greatly, and Botou was hit hard, causing its population to drop sharply.

In 1404, the second year of the Yongle reign, Zhu Di, who had become the Yongle Emperor, ordered residents to move to Cangzhou. Many Hui Muslims came to Botou as a result. Records show that Hui Muslims with the surnames Yang, Cao, Dai, Hui, Zhang, Wang, and Shi all moved to Botou in 1404 by imperial decree from Erlanggang in Shangyuan County, Yingtian Prefecture, Nanjing. Research suggests that Erlanggang was a camp for Semu people who had surrendered to the Ming from the Yuan Dynasty. The first mosque in Botou was built that same year.

Later, more Hui Muslims moved here from Shandong, Shanxi, and Anhui, and the Botou Hui Muslim community was officially formed. In 1551, the 30th year of the Jiajing reign, Botou began building city walls. They used earth for three sides, and on the east side facing the canal, they added parapets to the houses and opened six city gates. The Hui Muslim community was located inside the south gate. The Botou Mosque underwent large-scale expansion during the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, taking on its current form.











Moon-Sighting Tower (Wangyuelou)































In the eyes of Allah, the most honorable among you is the one who is most pious. (49:13)

















After 1966, the Botou Mosque stopped its activities. Religious staff were publicly denounced, and scriptures were burned. The head of the mosque, Zhang Zizhen, was driven away and passed away the following year. The imam, Ha Fuling, was sent back to his hometown in Xinzhuang, Xian County.

After the denunciations, Jin Laiguang set up a flour mill. Older religious staff worked as millers, and the younger ones went to work in factories. The main hall of the mosque was occupied by an embroidery factory, an oilcloth factory, a straw hat factory, and a sack thread factory as workshops. The water room was used by an agricultural production team as a machine shop. The side gates of the main entrance, the charity school, the side halls, and the south lecture hall all collapsed. The spire of the Moon-Sighting Tower was smashed, its first-floor walls collapsed, and the base walls of the main hall also fell. Eighteen original plaques inscribed by figures like Ji Xiaolan and Zhang Zhidong were lost. Only a damaged plaque reading "Pure and Bright" (Qingzhen Guangming), inscribed by the 75th Duke Yansheng, Kong Xiangke, in 1864, the third year of the Tongzhi reign, was found. In 1982, a calligrapher repaired the damaged parts based on the original style.



On the canal bank directly east of the Botou Mosque, there used to be a brick and wood archway, commonly known by locals as the Big Round Gate (Dayuanmen), with the words "Muslim Lane" (Qingzhen Xiang) written on it. In 1953, a major flood on the canal led to the demolition of the Big Round Gate to block the riverbank. In the old days, Hui Muslim merchant ships traveling on the canal knew they had reached the Hui Muslim residential area as soon as they saw the "Muslim Lane" plaque.

There was once a stone archway next to the Big Round Gate that collapsed in the 1960s. When the Botou Mosque was rebuilt in 1982, two stone lintels from the top of the archway were moved to the mosque's main hall to serve as a foundation. The left side featured a dragon head and phoenix tail, and the right side featured a qilin delivering a child.







The women's mosque was built in 1953. It was originally the Huizhen Production Cooperative, built under the leadership of Imam Zhang Zizhen, and was rebuilt in 1993.





Halal food

During the Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China era, the most famous halal restaurants in Botou were Taihe Restaurant on Shunhe Street, which opened during the Tongzhi reign, and Shunfu Restaurant and Xingshenghe on Gulou Street, which opened during the Guangxu reign. Xiyu Restaurant was on East Street. The small and medium-sized restaurants around Shunhe Street were all halal, offering a wide variety of halal snacks.

Taihe Restaurant opened in 1870 (the ninth year of the Tongzhi reign). It was founded by Hui Muslim brothers Dai Ruiwu and Dai Bin. The building had the shop in the front and the restaurant in the back, with both open seating and private rooms, including standard and premium options. The menu focused on beef, lamb, fish, and shrimp. Dishes included clear-stewed beef, oil-fried tripe, braised cabbage, stir-fried lamb brains, stir-fried shrimp, stewed beef tongue and tail, braised beef tendon, and sweet and sour fish. The third-generation chef, Dai Shengheng, went to Tianjin in 1921 at age 15 to apprentice at the halal Hongbinlou Restaurant. He learned to cook elaborate whole-lamb feasts and river seafood. After returning to the restaurant, he became the head chef. He cooked high-end dishes like shark fin, bird's nest, and whole lamb, as well as home-style dishes like stir-fried, braised, and stewed beef and lamb. His signature dishes included deboned chicken, deboned fish, steamed chicken, candied peaches (basi tao), braised cabbage, various sweet dishes, and oil-poached sauces. His shredded meat noodle soup was considered the best. The noodles in Taihe Restaurant's shredded meat noodle soup were thin and translucent like silk threads, and the shredded meat was as thin as bean sprouts. The soup came in chicken or meatball varieties, served with large broad beans, preserved vegetables (nancai), wood ear mushrooms, and fried tofu puffs. It tasted delicious.

In 1937, Dai Shengheng went to Jinan to open the new Majia Restaurant, and Taihe Restaurant closed.

Xingshenghe Maji was founded during the Guangxu reign by Hui Muslim Ma Chunbo. It was located on Gulou Street outside Chaoyang Gate and was famous for its five-spice roast beef. Ma's roast meat contained no beef fat or mixed scraps. Before roasting, the meat was soaked in cold water for several hours to remove blood. It was seasoned with five spices: cinnamon, star anise, Sichuan peppercorns, fennel seeds, and cloves. No soy sauce or sugar coloring was used. It was simmered in old broth over low heat for six hours. When finished, it was sweet, moist, and brownish-red, with a chewy texture that held together. It could stay fresh for three to five days.

Before 1937, Ma Doutai, a Hui Muslim from Xinzhuang in Xian County, came to Gulou Street in Botou to open the Juxingheng Pastry Shop. It had the shop in the front and the factory in the back. They offered over 20 varieties of pastries that were sweet, salty, fragrant, soft, and crispy. They used various fillings like red hawthorn, white sugar, date paste, and red bean paste, making it the most famous halal pastry shop in Botou.

After 1937, 19 halal restaurants opened in Botou, nine of which were on Sanfu Street. The larger restaurants included Enshunlou, Qingzhen Restaurant, Fushun Restaurant, and Enyishun. Their signature dishes included braised sea cucumber, braised fish, steamed duck, and eight-treasure rice (babao fan). Eight-treasure rice is a sweet dish. The main ingredient is glutinous rice, supplemented with green silk, colorful cakes, lotus seeds, water chestnuts, melon strips, walnut kernels, raisins, and melon seeds. The rice is first made into a sticky consistency and mixed with white sugar. Then, the toppings are added, creating a colorful and uniquely shaped dish.



Lamb offal (yangzasui)



Stewed free-range chicken (dun benji)



Braised lamb offal (hui yangza)



Egg rolls (danjuan)



The pastries at this shop were all sourced from Tianjin.



















Hui Muslims and the Grand Canal

Local shipping in Botou was mainly operated by Hui Muslims. The trade was divided into two groups: those who worked on the boats and those who owned the boats. Those who worked on the boats were the crew and trackers. Those who owned the boats were the boat owners, divided into those who owned large boats for renting out or hiring labor, and those who used their own small boats. Some small boat owners operated ferries for passengers, some transported fertilizer for riverside villages, and others ran long-distance transport routes from Tianjin in the north to Xinxiang, Henan in the south. The trough boats (caozichuan) used for long-distance transport were flat, long, and wide, with a shallow draft.

Long-distance boats from Botou carried salt south and returned with cotton, coal, and porcelain. The trip from Tianjin to Dezhou took eight or nine days, to Linqing took half a month, and to Daokou Town in Henan took over forty days.

In 1946, there were 31 Hui Muslim boat-owning households in Botou, primarily from the Shi, Li, Cao, Duo, and Mu families. Later, because the canal became heavily silted, the Mu family moved to Tianjin and switched to sea shipping. By July 1948, Botou had 231 wooden boats.



Trackers were at the bottom of the shipping industry. Boat owners chose the number of trackers based on the boat's size and cargo capacity, usually five or six, though some trips used as few as one or two, or as many as over ten. When traveling downstream, trackers stayed on the boat to row; when traveling upstream, they went ashore to pull the boat. When pulling, they used a main tow rope attached to a chest pad worn diagonally across the chest. The tracker at the front and the one at the back controlled the direction to keep the boat straight. When passing under a bridge, they had to unhook the rope. The boatmen on board would call out signals to the lead tracker, and they would reattach the rope to continue after passing the bridge.

During the voyage, trackers followed a schedule of three tea breaks and four meals a day. They started the boat at 5:00 a.m., ate breakfast at 8:00 or 9:00, had their first tea break after traveling a bit, ate lunch at noon, had their second tea break, ate dinner around 4:00 or 5:00 p.m., had their third tea break, and finally ate a late-night snack after docking at dark before resting. The tea for these breaks was usually plain water, and the meals consisted of steamed cornmeal buns (wotou), pickled vegetables, and millet porridge. The stoves on the boats were small, so the steamed cornmeal buns (wotou) came out thin and tall, and you could grab four or five in one hand. Besides this, when they reached Cangzhou, Dezhou, and Linqingzhou, they could have noodles in soup, which they called passing through a prefecture to eat noodles.

There were many types of tracker work songs, with different ones for going downstream, upstream, turning corners, and passing bridges. The head boatman directed the work. He stood at the bow to watch the current, used a pole to adjust the boat's direction, and used work songs to coordinate everyone. A song leader followed the trackers. He did not pull the rope but was responsible for responding to the head boatman's lead vocals. The lyrics included lines like, Big boats carry white grain, small boats carry green bamboo poles; Big boats can dock at Jiujiang port, small boats only rely on the riverbanks. After 1957, wooden boats on the South Canal were replaced by small tugboats, and the canal work songs gradually disappeared. The only person who can sing the full set of Botou canal work songs today is Li Shuyuan, a Hui Muslim born in 1935. He is the fourth-generation descendant of the Li family, a major boat-owning family in Botou. He started working on boats at age 14 and is the last person from those major families who witnessed the glory days of the South Canal.

In 1957, during the public-private partnership transition, Botou's fleets were assigned to Dezhou, Xinxiang, and Tianjin. Botou no longer had its own fleet, and many people left their boats to return to Botou, where they were assigned to brick factories and construction teams. During breaks, these workers would sing the work songs, which became the final echoes of the canal.





Derived from the shipping industry were the porter guilds, commonly known as the heavy lifters. The porter guilds in Botou were mainly Hui Muslims. They usually used a shoulder pole and a shoulder pad. Some families shared handcarts, and when unloading logs, they used levers with large, semicircular iron hooks at the front. At that time, each person carried one 90-kilogram sack of grain or one roll of paper or cardboard weighing over 100 kilograms. They carried four 22.5-kilogram bags of flour at a time. They tracked their work by receiving a bamboo tally for each load and counting them at the end. When lifting heavy items like logs, everyone would sing labor work songs. One person would lead, and the others would follow, creating a rhythmic, powerful, and responsive sound.

During the Republic of China era, there were three Hui Muslim porter groups in Botou. One was the Tongshun Shop porter group, commonly known as the South End porter group. Another was the Wuying porter group, and the third was the Gulou and East Street porter group. The three groups merged in 1947 to become the Wharf Second Labor Union, and in 1958, they became the Second Transport Team.

Before 1965, the Botou section of the Grand Canal had plenty of water. In the early summer of 1965, the canal dried up for the first time. After that, the water level dropped every year. By the first half of the 1970s, it was nearly dry, and shipping in Botou came to an end.









Collapse Read »