Eating South Asian and Middle Eastern Food in Beijing (Part 1) (Section 1 of 2)

Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces Eating South Asian and Middle Eastern Food in Beijing (Part 1). I have been to many Middle Eastern and South Asian restaurants in Beijing in the past few years, some of which have closed. It is useful for readers interested in Beijing Halal Food, Muslim Travel, Middle Eastern Food. Section 1 of 2.

I have been to many Middle Eastern and South Asian restaurants in Beijing in the past few years, some of which have closed. I have been thinking about sorting it out in the past few days. Next, I will try all the restaurants I have not been to. Now I will share with you the restaurants I have been to.

First, let’s list the South Asian and Middle Eastern restaurants in Beijing that I know: Al Ameen (Lebanon), Al Safir (Jordan), BRBR (Syria), One Thousand and One Nights (Arabia), Taiba Guijie Store (Arabia), Turkish Mama (Turkey), Rumi's Secret (Turkey), Xiting Xiuse (Turkey), Dardaniel (Azerbaijan/Turkey) (It), Desert Rose (Azerbaijan/Turkey), Doner&Kebab (Azerbaijan/Turkey), Kavkaz (Azerbaijan), Iranian Food (the Iranian boss has returned to China and is currently run by Chinese), Khan Baba (Pakistan), Zam Zam (Pakistan), Lahore Restaurant (Pakistan), Benjabi (India), Indian Chef (India), Land of Masala (India), Sadhuli (India).

Newly opened in 2021: Zayton (Palestine), Istanbul (Türkiye), Qubbe (Türkiye), Taiba Sanlitun Store (Arabia).

One that was written in 2020 but closed in 2021: Meza (Tunisia).

I have eaten at restaurants that are closed: Camel Restaurant (Morocco), Nayir (Azerbaijan), Shashi Castle (Uzbekistan), Enchant (Turkey), and Bata Pancake (Israel).

1. Arabia

1. Jordanian restaurant Al Safir

On April 18, 2021, Ramadan Iftar had a buffet at the Jordanian restaurant Al Safir in Sanyuanqiao. It was a good opportunity to experience Levantine salads and various sauces! Now you can try all the things you wouldn’t normally order. The most classic ones are of course Hummus and Falafel. The most authentic way to eat them is to eat them with pita bread, sandwiching various sauces and falafel. The main courses include fish, lamb chops, chicken stewed rice, fried chicken, adzuki bean soup and various juices, including grape juice. Their lamb chops are so delicious, it feels like they were grilled first? The taste is particularly good.













It was Zainab’s birthday on May 20, 2020. Iftar and I went to Al Safir. Ever since Zainab ate with their family last year, we have fallen in love with Arabic food, especially Levantine food. We were originally going to divorce and go to the Middle East together this year, but now we have to eat at Arabic restaurants to satisfy our cravings.

They can order a la carte and eat Iftar's buffet, as well as Iftar's dates. We had a buffet with a variety of salads and cups of Arabic bean soup. I ordered Beirut Hummus with garlic flavor, Falafel with fried chickpeas, and a barbecue platter. Their barbecue is delicious!

The more distinctive one is the yogurt sauce Kibbeh, which is a small scone made by grinding wheat, onions, beef, lamb and various Middle Eastern spices (cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, etc.). It has fried beef on the outside and lamb filling on the inside. The word kibbeh comes from the North Levantine Arabic word meaning ball, and the dish originated in the Levant region and is popular throughout the Middle East.

















On July 17, 2019, I had adzuki bean soup, mutton Hummus, Falafel, thick yogurt, cucumber yogurt and grilled meat platter at Al Safir. I really enjoyed it.

Hummus and Falafel are both specialty delicacies of the Levant region on the east coast of the Mediterranean. Hummus is super delicious in various ways. I have also been a fan of adzuki bean soup since I ate it in the Palestinian restaurant on campus when I was in college, but it is a bit too hot to eat in the summer.

I love their roast lamb so much! It's very tender, and it's so satisfying to wrap it in Arabic pancakes dipped in tomato sauce. Their barbecue is so delicious that there was an incident where I ate several pieces of the barbecue before I even remembered to take a photo www











On January 10, 2019, we had adzuki bean soup, mutton hummus, grilled fish and mint tea at Al Safir, a Jordanian restaurant in Sanyuanqiao. I especially like their Pi Ya Zi sauce! Have to add another portion each time.







2. Lebanese restaurant Al Ameen

On September 24, 2020, when my mother-in-law came to Beijing for her first meal, we ate at Al Ameen, a Lebanese restaurant next to the German Embassy outside Dongzhimen. I have eaten there for many years. It was closed for renovation for a period of time, and it reopened last year. This year, I feel that their family is obviously not as big as before YQ, and the dishes have become less. I hope their family can survive this difficult time.

I ordered the more classic appetizer platter (Hummus hummus, carrot puree, yogurt, Mutebbel eggplant yogurt sauce)\cream of mushroom soup, lentil soup, vegetable soup, chicken soup, barbecue platter and grilled vegetable platter. What’s more special is the Mahashi, a rice dumpling with lamb bone and vegetables.

Mahashi is made of Lebanese zucchini (Kusa) and eggplant stuffed with meat and rice, and cooked with tomato sauce, cumin and broth. Mahashi is a classic Ottoman dish that can be found throughout the pre-Ottoman regions from the Balkans to the Levant (eastern coast of the Mediterranean) and Egypt, and is prepared differently in each region. Mahashi is a common dish served at banquets at weddings, family gatherings and Eid.













On September 26, 2019, I went to the Lebanese restaurant Alameen in Sanlitun. After the renovation, it became a lot bigger and some new dishes were added. I will try it when I have time in the future. This time I had a platter of chickpea hummus sauce, eggplant sauce, yogurt, adzuki bean soup, cream of mushroom soup, lamb naan, lamb chops, fried fish and lemongrass mint tea. One of the more distinctive ones is Kibbeh, a Levantine barbecue.













On May 26, 2019, I ate roasted lamb leg, lentil soup and hummus at the Lebanese restaurant Alameen outside Dongzhimen in the evening.



3. Meza, a Tunisian restaurant (closed)

On the evening of December 21, 2020, I went to the Tunisian restaurant Mesa, which was newly opened in November. After the Moroccan restaurant Camel Team Restaurant and Bar closed due to the epidemic (the owner ran away), there is a North African restaurant in Beijing. (Unfortunately it will be closed again in 2021).

I ordered Brik with Tuna, sizzling Shakshuka with eggs, grilled chicken skewers, Tunisian sausage (Merguez), Baba Ganoush, pickle platter, lentil soup, and also ordered Tajine Couscous with various grilled meats, which was not on the menu.

Brik pie is a North African Berber dish that was later brought to Israel by Tunisian Jews. The filling is usually filled with eggs, tuna, harissa, parsley, etc., and then wrapped in crispy noodles called Malsouka or Warka and fried.

Shakshuka is a stew of eggs, tomatoes and onions, usually with olive oil, chili, garlic, cumin, nutmeg and other spices. Shakshouka, which means "mixture" in Arabic, is widely distributed in the former Ottoman lands and Andalusia, and was brought to Israel by Tunisian Jews. The dish was originally just a stew of minced meat or liver. Tomatoes and peppers were later introduced from the Americas, and eggs are often added to the Tunisian version.

Merguez is a North African sausage made from lamb and beef, mixed with cumin, harissa, chili peppers and other spices, and is usually grilled. Merguez sausage was first seen in Andalusia in the 12th century, that is, southern Spain under Arab rule. At that time, it was pronounced as mirkās or merkās in Andalusian Arabic. Later it spread throughout North Africa and then to France and Germany.

Baba ghanoush is a Middle Eastern Levantine appetizer, which is made of cooked eggplant puree mixed with sesame sauce and olive oil, lemon juice and other seasonings. It is usually dipped in pita.

Tajine is a North African Berber specialty. Tajine in North African Arabic originates from ancient Greek, and its original meaning is pan. The tagine can be traced back to Harun al-Rashid, the fifth generation caliph of the Bassi Dynasty in the 8th-9th century, and appears in the 9th-century masterpiece "One Thousand and One Nights". Today's tagines are made of pottery, sometimes glazed, with a rounded flat bottom and a cone or dome on top. This design allows all evaporated water vapor to return to the bottom, and water can be added from the hole in the lid.

Couscous, a staple of Berber cuisine, is made from semolina rolled into millet-sized particles and then dried in the sun. Couscous was first seen in North Africa from the 11th to the 13th century. In the 13th century, Ibn Razin al-Tuyibi, a famous Andalusian scholar and gourmet, first recorded the recipe of couscous in his book "Andalusian Cookbook".



















4. Arabic fast food restaurant Taiba
Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces Eating South Asian and Middle Eastern Food in Beijing (Part 1). I have been to many Middle Eastern and South Asian restaurants in Beijing in the past few years, some of which have closed. It is useful for readers interested in Beijing Halal Food, Muslim Travel, Middle Eastern Food. Section 1 of 2.

I have been to many Middle Eastern and South Asian restaurants in Beijing in the past few years, some of which have closed. I have been thinking about sorting it out in the past few days. Next, I will try all the restaurants I have not been to. Now I will share with you the restaurants I have been to.

First, let’s list the South Asian and Middle Eastern restaurants in Beijing that I know: Al Ameen (Lebanon), Al Safir (Jordan), BRBR (Syria), One Thousand and One Nights (Arabia), Taiba Guijie Store (Arabia), Turkish Mama (Turkey), Rumi's Secret (Turkey), Xiting Xiuse (Turkey), Dardaniel (Azerbaijan/Turkey) (It), Desert Rose (Azerbaijan/Turkey), Doner&Kebab (Azerbaijan/Turkey), Kavkaz (Azerbaijan), Iranian Food (the Iranian boss has returned to China and is currently run by Chinese), Khan Baba (Pakistan), Zam Zam (Pakistan), Lahore Restaurant (Pakistan), Benjabi (India), Indian Chef (India), Land of Masala (India), Sadhuli (India).

Newly opened in 2021: Zayton (Palestine), Istanbul (Türkiye), Qubbe (Türkiye), Taiba Sanlitun Store (Arabia).

One that was written in 2020 but closed in 2021: Meza (Tunisia).

I have eaten at restaurants that are closed: Camel Restaurant (Morocco), Nayir (Azerbaijan), Shashi Castle (Uzbekistan), Enchant (Turkey), and Bata Pancake (Israel).

1. Arabia

1. Jordanian restaurant Al Safir

On April 18, 2021, Ramadan Iftar had a buffet at the Jordanian restaurant Al Safir in Sanyuanqiao. It was a good opportunity to experience Levantine salads and various sauces! Now you can try all the things you wouldn’t normally order. The most classic ones are of course Hummus and Falafel. The most authentic way to eat them is to eat them with pita bread, sandwiching various sauces and falafel. The main courses include fish, lamb chops, chicken stewed rice, fried chicken, adzuki bean soup and various juices, including grape juice. Their lamb chops are so delicious, it feels like they were grilled first? The taste is particularly good.













It was Zainab’s birthday on May 20, 2020. Iftar and I went to Al Safir. Ever since Zainab ate with their family last year, we have fallen in love with Arabic food, especially Levantine food. We were originally going to divorce and go to the Middle East together this year, but now we have to eat at Arabic restaurants to satisfy our cravings.

They can order a la carte and eat Iftar's buffet, as well as Iftar's dates. We had a buffet with a variety of salads and cups of Arabic bean soup. I ordered Beirut Hummus with garlic flavor, Falafel with fried chickpeas, and a barbecue platter. Their barbecue is delicious!

The more distinctive one is the yogurt sauce Kibbeh, which is a small scone made by grinding wheat, onions, beef, lamb and various Middle Eastern spices (cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, etc.). It has fried beef on the outside and lamb filling on the inside. The word kibbeh comes from the North Levantine Arabic word meaning ball, and the dish originated in the Levant region and is popular throughout the Middle East.

















On July 17, 2019, I had adzuki bean soup, mutton Hummus, Falafel, thick yogurt, cucumber yogurt and grilled meat platter at Al Safir. I really enjoyed it.

Hummus and Falafel are both specialty delicacies of the Levant region on the east coast of the Mediterranean. Hummus is super delicious in various ways. I have also been a fan of adzuki bean soup since I ate it in the Palestinian restaurant on campus when I was in college, but it is a bit too hot to eat in the summer.

I love their roast lamb so much! It's very tender, and it's so satisfying to wrap it in Arabic pancakes dipped in tomato sauce. Their barbecue is so delicious that there was an incident where I ate several pieces of the barbecue before I even remembered to take a photo www











On January 10, 2019, we had adzuki bean soup, mutton hummus, grilled fish and mint tea at Al Safir, a Jordanian restaurant in Sanyuanqiao. I especially like their Pi Ya Zi sauce! Have to add another portion each time.







2. Lebanese restaurant Al Ameen

On September 24, 2020, when my mother-in-law came to Beijing for her first meal, we ate at Al Ameen, a Lebanese restaurant next to the German Embassy outside Dongzhimen. I have eaten there for many years. It was closed for renovation for a period of time, and it reopened last year. This year, I feel that their family is obviously not as big as before YQ, and the dishes have become less. I hope their family can survive this difficult time.

I ordered the more classic appetizer platter (Hummus hummus, carrot puree, yogurt, Mutebbel eggplant yogurt sauce)\cream of mushroom soup, lentil soup, vegetable soup, chicken soup, barbecue platter and grilled vegetable platter. What’s more special is the Mahashi, a rice dumpling with lamb bone and vegetables.

Mahashi is made of Lebanese zucchini (Kusa) and eggplant stuffed with meat and rice, and cooked with tomato sauce, cumin and broth. Mahashi is a classic Ottoman dish that can be found throughout the pre-Ottoman regions from the Balkans to the Levant (eastern coast of the Mediterranean) and Egypt, and is prepared differently in each region. Mahashi is a common dish served at banquets at weddings, family gatherings and Eid.













On September 26, 2019, I went to the Lebanese restaurant Alameen in Sanlitun. After the renovation, it became a lot bigger and some new dishes were added. I will try it when I have time in the future. This time I had a platter of chickpea hummus sauce, eggplant sauce, yogurt, adzuki bean soup, cream of mushroom soup, lamb naan, lamb chops, fried fish and lemongrass mint tea. One of the more distinctive ones is Kibbeh, a Levantine barbecue.













On May 26, 2019, I ate roasted lamb leg, lentil soup and hummus at the Lebanese restaurant Alameen outside Dongzhimen in the evening.



3. Meza, a Tunisian restaurant (closed)

On the evening of December 21, 2020, I went to the Tunisian restaurant Mesa, which was newly opened in November. After the Moroccan restaurant Camel Team Restaurant and Bar closed due to the epidemic (the owner ran away), there is a North African restaurant in Beijing. (Unfortunately it will be closed again in 2021).

I ordered Brik with Tuna, sizzling Shakshuka with eggs, grilled chicken skewers, Tunisian sausage (Merguez), Baba Ganoush, pickle platter, lentil soup, and also ordered Tajine Couscous with various grilled meats, which was not on the menu.

Brik pie is a North African Berber dish that was later brought to Israel by Tunisian Jews. The filling is usually filled with eggs, tuna, harissa, parsley, etc., and then wrapped in crispy noodles called Malsouka or Warka and fried.

Shakshuka is a stew of eggs, tomatoes and onions, usually with olive oil, chili, garlic, cumin, nutmeg and other spices. Shakshouka, which means "mixture" in Arabic, is widely distributed in the former Ottoman lands and Andalusia, and was brought to Israel by Tunisian Jews. The dish was originally just a stew of minced meat or liver. Tomatoes and peppers were later introduced from the Americas, and eggs are often added to the Tunisian version.

Merguez is a North African sausage made from lamb and beef, mixed with cumin, harissa, chili peppers and other spices, and is usually grilled. Merguez sausage was first seen in Andalusia in the 12th century, that is, southern Spain under Arab rule. At that time, it was pronounced as mirkās or merkās in Andalusian Arabic. Later it spread throughout North Africa and then to France and Germany.

Baba ghanoush is a Middle Eastern Levantine appetizer, which is made of cooked eggplant puree mixed with sesame sauce and olive oil, lemon juice and other seasonings. It is usually dipped in pita.

Tajine is a North African Berber specialty. Tajine in North African Arabic originates from ancient Greek, and its original meaning is pan. The tagine can be traced back to Harun al-Rashid, the fifth generation caliph of the Bassi Dynasty in the 8th-9th century, and appears in the 9th-century masterpiece "One Thousand and One Nights". Today's tagines are made of pottery, sometimes glazed, with a rounded flat bottom and a cone or dome on top. This design allows all evaporated water vapor to return to the bottom, and water can be added from the hole in the lid.

Couscous, a staple of Berber cuisine, is made from semolina rolled into millet-sized particles and then dried in the sun. Couscous was first seen in North Africa from the 11th to the 13th century. In the 13th century, Ibn Razin al-Tuyibi, a famous Andalusian scholar and gourmet, first recorded the recipe of couscous in his book "Andalusian Cookbook".



















4. Arabic fast food restaurant Taiba Collapse Read »

Eating South Asian and Middle Eastern Food in Beijing (Part 1)

Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces Eating South Asian and Middle Eastern Food in Beijing (Part 1). I have been to many Middle Eastern and South Asian restaurants in Beijing in the past few years, some of which have closed. It is useful for readers interested in Beijing Halal Food, Muslim Travel, Middle Eastern Food.

I have been to many Middle Eastern and South Asian restaurants in Beijing in the past few years, some of which have closed. I have been thinking about sorting it out in the past few days. Next, I will try all the restaurants I have not been to. Now I will share with you the restaurants I have been to.

First, let’s list the South Asian and Middle Eastern restaurants in Beijing that I know: Al Ameen (Lebanon), Al Safir (Jordan), BRBR (Syria), One Thousand and One Nights (Arabia), Taiba Guijie Store (Arabia), Turkish Mama (Turkey), Rumi's Secret (Turkey), Xiting Xiuse (Turkey), Dardaniel (Azerbaijan/Turkey) (It), Desert Rose (Azerbaijan/Turkey), Doner&Kebab (Azerbaijan/Turkey), Kavkaz (Azerbaijan), Iranian Food (the Iranian boss has returned to China and is currently run by Chinese), Khan Baba (Pakistan), Zam Zam (Pakistan), Lahore Restaurant (Pakistan), Benjabi (India), Indian Chef (India), Land of Masala (India), Sadhuli (India).

Newly opened in 2021: Zayton (Palestine), Istanbul (Türkiye), Qubbe (Türkiye), Taiba Sanlitun Store (Arabia).

One that was written in 2020 but closed in 2021: Meza (Tunisia).

I have eaten at restaurants that are closed: Camel Restaurant (Morocco), Nayir (Azerbaijan), Shashi Castle (Uzbekistan), Enchant (Turkey), and Bata Pancake (Israel).

1. Arabia

1. Jordanian restaurant Al Safir

On April 18, 2021, Ramadan Iftar had a buffet at the Jordanian restaurant Al Safir in Sanyuanqiao. It was a good opportunity to experience Levantine salads and various sauces! Now you can try all the things you wouldn’t normally order. The most classic ones are of course Hummus and Falafel. The most authentic way to eat them is to eat them with pita bread, sandwiching various sauces and falafel. The main courses include fish, lamb chops, chicken stewed rice, fried chicken, adzuki bean soup and various juices, including grape juice. Their lamb chops are so delicious, it feels like they were grilled first? The taste is particularly good.













It was Zainab’s birthday on May 20, 2020. Iftar and I went to Al Safir. Ever since Zainab ate with their family last year, we have fallen in love with Arabic food, especially Levantine food. We were originally going to divorce and go to the Middle East together this year, but now we have to eat at Arabic restaurants to satisfy our cravings.

They can order a la carte and eat Iftar's buffet, as well as Iftar's dates. We had a buffet with a variety of salads and cups of Arabic bean soup. I ordered Beirut Hummus with garlic flavor, Falafel with fried chickpeas, and a barbecue platter. Their barbecue is delicious!

The more distinctive one is the yogurt sauce Kibbeh, which is a small scone made by grinding wheat, onions, beef, lamb and various Middle Eastern spices (cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, etc.). It has fried beef on the outside and lamb filling on the inside. The word kibbeh comes from the North Levantine Arabic word meaning ball, and the dish originated in the Levant region and is popular throughout the Middle East.

















On July 17, 2019, I had adzuki bean soup, mutton Hummus, Falafel, thick yogurt, cucumber yogurt and grilled meat platter at Al Safir. I really enjoyed it.

Hummus and Falafel are both specialty delicacies of the Levant region on the east coast of the Mediterranean. Hummus is super delicious in various ways. I have also been a fan of adzuki bean soup since I ate it in the Palestinian restaurant on campus when I was in college, but it is a bit too hot to eat in the summer.

I love their roast lamb so much! It's very tender, and it's so satisfying to wrap it in Arabic pancakes dipped in tomato sauce. Their barbecue is so delicious that there was an incident where I ate several pieces of the barbecue before I even remembered to take a photo www











On January 10, 2019, we had adzuki bean soup, mutton hummus, grilled fish and mint tea at Al Safir, a Jordanian restaurant in Sanyuanqiao. I especially like their Pi Ya Zi sauce! Have to add another portion each time.







2. Lebanese restaurant Al Ameen

On September 24, 2020, when my mother-in-law came to Beijing for her first meal, we ate at Al Ameen, a Lebanese restaurant next to the German Embassy outside Dongzhimen. I have eaten there for many years. It was closed for renovation for a period of time, and it reopened last year. This year, I feel that their family is obviously not as big as before YQ, and the dishes have become less. I hope their family can survive this difficult time.

I ordered the more classic appetizer platter (Hummus hummus, carrot puree, yogurt, Mutebbel eggplant yogurt sauce)\cream of mushroom soup, lentil soup, vegetable soup, chicken soup, barbecue platter and grilled vegetable platter. What’s more special is the Mahashi, a rice dumpling with lamb bone and vegetables.

Mahashi is made of Lebanese zucchini (Kusa) and eggplant stuffed with meat and rice, and cooked with tomato sauce, cumin and broth. Mahashi is a classic Ottoman dish that can be found throughout the pre-Ottoman regions from the Balkans to the Levant (eastern coast of the Mediterranean) and Egypt, and is prepared differently in each region. Mahashi is a common dish served at banquets at weddings, family gatherings and Eid.













On September 26, 2019, I went to the Lebanese restaurant Alameen in Sanlitun. After the renovation, it became a lot bigger and some new dishes were added. I will try it when I have time in the future. This time I had a platter of chickpea hummus sauce, eggplant sauce, yogurt, adzuki bean soup, cream of mushroom soup, lamb naan, lamb chops, fried fish and lemongrass mint tea. One of the more distinctive ones is Kibbeh, a Levantine barbecue.













On May 26, 2019, I ate roasted lamb leg, lentil soup and hummus at the Lebanese restaurant Alameen outside Dongzhimen in the evening.



3. Meza, a Tunisian restaurant (closed)

On the evening of December 21, 2020, I went to the Tunisian restaurant Mesa, which was newly opened in November. After the Moroccan restaurant Camel Team Restaurant and Bar closed due to the epidemic (the owner ran away), there is a North African restaurant in Beijing. (Unfortunately it will be closed again in 2021).

I ordered Brik with Tuna, sizzling Shakshuka with eggs, grilled chicken skewers, Tunisian sausage (Merguez), Baba Ganoush, pickle platter, lentil soup, and also ordered Tajine Couscous with various grilled meats, which was not on the menu.

Brik pie is a North African Berber dish that was later brought to Israel by Tunisian Jews. The filling is usually filled with eggs, tuna, harissa, parsley, etc., and then wrapped in crispy noodles called Malsouka or Warka and fried.

Shakshuka is a stew of eggs, tomatoes and onions, usually with olive oil, chili, garlic, cumin, nutmeg and other spices. Shakshouka, which means "mixture" in Arabic, is widely distributed in the former Ottoman lands and Andalusia, and was brought to Israel by Tunisian Jews. The dish was originally just a stew of minced meat or liver. Tomatoes and peppers were later introduced from the Americas, and eggs are often added to the Tunisian version.

Merguez is a North African sausage made from lamb and beef, mixed with cumin, harissa, chili peppers and other spices, and is usually grilled. Merguez sausage was first seen in Andalusia in the 12th century, that is, southern Spain under Arab rule. At that time, it was pronounced as mirkās or merkās in Andalusian Arabic. Later it spread throughout North Africa and then to France and Germany.

Baba ghanoush is a Middle Eastern Levantine appetizer, which is made of cooked eggplant puree mixed with sesame sauce and olive oil, lemon juice and other seasonings. It is usually dipped in pita.

Tajine is a North African Berber specialty. Tajine in North African Arabic originates from ancient Greek, and its original meaning is pan. The tagine can be traced back to Harun al-Rashid, the fifth generation caliph of the Bassi Dynasty in the 8th-9th century, and appears in the 9th-century masterpiece "One Thousand and One Nights". Today's tagines are made of pottery, sometimes glazed, with a rounded flat bottom and a cone or dome on top. This design allows all evaporated water vapor to return to the bottom, and water can be added from the hole in the lid.

Couscous, a staple of Berber cuisine, is made from semolina rolled into millet-sized particles and then dried in the sun. Couscous was first seen in North Africa from the 11th to the 13th century. In the 13th century, Ibn Razin al-Tuyibi, a famous Andalusian scholar and gourmet, first recorded the recipe of couscous in his book "Andalusian Cookbook".



















4. Arabic fast food restaurant Taiba

On January 17, 2021, Taiba, a new Arabic fast food restaurant, was recently opened on Guijie Street. I ate Arabic pizza Lahmacun, hummus, and chickpea croquettes Falafel, and drank Middle Eastern black tea with strong spices. Their little brother is from Sudan and speaks Chinese very well. In addition, they mainly serve takeout, and if you want to dine in, you can only eat at the noodle shop next to it.

Lahmacun comes from Arabic (لحم بعجين), which literally translates to "meat and dough". During the Ottoman era, Lahmacun spread from Arabia to pre-Ottoman regions such as Turkey and Armenia, so it was also called "Turkish pizza" or "Armenian pizza", but the basic method is to make thin pancakes with minced meat.















5. Syrian Restaurant BRBR

On March 7, 2021, we ate at BRBR, a Syrian restaurant in Wudaokou, at noon. I have heard about their restaurant for a long time, but I have never eaten there since I live too far away from the city. This is the first time I have eaten there. I feel deeply that their family is so popular! We went there after two o'clock and had to wait for a long time to be seated. All the young people came to eat.

Syrian cuisine is also a relatively standard Levantine cuisine. The most classic ones are hummus and falafel, but we didn’t order them this time. Ordered lentil soup, grilled meat platter (Shuqaf mutton skewers, traditional Kabab, chicken skewers and chicken wings), half grilled chicken, chickpea broad beans with tahini sauce, lemon mint.

What was special this time was the traditional Arab Mandi mutton rice. Mandi originated from Yemen and is popular in the Arabian Peninsula, Egypt and the Levant. Mandi is usually made of rice, meat (mutton, camel or chicken) and Hawaij spices. Hawaij is also a special spice originating from Yemen. It can be used for cooking, soup and coffee. The main ingredients are cumin, black pepper, turmeric and cardamom. The taste of Mandi is drier than ordinary curry rice.



















2. Türkiye and Azerbaijan

1. Turkish Mom

On January 10, 2020, after getting married, I went to Sanlitun's Turkish mother with Zainab. I ordered lentil and wheat soup, "Sultan's favorite", barbecue platter and rice pudding, and then drank tea and smoked shisha to talk about things. Turkish Mama is much better than the Iranian food next door. The grilled lamb and toasted bread are especially delicious. The wheat rice we originally ordered was returned because the bread was so delicious.

The Sultan's Favorite (Hünkar Heğendi) is a snack that originated in the Ottoman court. It uses rich stewed lamb with creamy roasted eggplant puree. It is quite rare in Beijing.













On October 19, 2019, Turkish mothers smoked hookah, drank tea, and ate baklava and rice pudding in the west of Changhong Bridge.





2. Turkish Restaurant Dardanelle

On August 11, 2019, after the Eid al-Adha celebrations, I went out to eat at the Turkish restaurant Dardanir in the Temple of Heaven. I ordered lentil soup, cream of chicken soup, assorted salads (hummus, yellow pepper puree, chili puree), mint yogurt, roasted lamb liver, tomato lamb kebabs, Lahmachun pizza, yogurt Ayran and rice pudding.



















On June 6, 2018, my friends and I went to Dardanelle on Shenlu Street to eat cream chicken soup, assorted barbecue, lamb cheese Pide, Mediterranean salad, rice pudding and Turkish black tea. I liked the lamb cheese Pide, it was really huge!

















3. The secret of Rumi in Turkish restaurant

On February 18, 2021, have an Ottoman breakfast at Rumi’s Secret in the Temple of the Sun and pretend to be in Türkiye.









On September 25, 2020, in the evening, our family welcomed Zainab’s mother and had a secret dinner at Rumi’s, a Turkish restaurant on Ritan Street. Since its opening this summer, Rumi’s Secret has become a popular place to visit in Jindosti, especially among Uyghur friends. Because they don't sell alcohol, I think their environment is the most comfortable among the many halal restaurants on Ritan Street, and it's very suitable for family gatherings.

This time we ordered carrot puree and yogurt and eggplant puree as appetizers, lentil soup and cream of mushroom soup as soup, and then ordered grilled chicken, skewers and Pide. The boss also gave us black tea and dessert after the meal. Zainab's mother drank Middle Eastern lentil soup for the first time and found it delicious. Their grilled chicken and grilled skewers are also quite delicious, but the most recommended thing is the three-piece Pide pancake, which is a combination of cheese, meat and vegetables. I think it is even more delicious than the Pide in several restaurants I have eaten in Turkey.



















On July 4, 2020, we ate at Rumi’s Secret, a Turkish restaurant on Ritan Street, at noon. Although their restaurant just opened in June, most of my dusty friends have tried it several times! The environment of their home is very good, suitable for chatting, and there are performances in the evening.

At their house, we had hummus hummus, carrot puree, cream of mushroom soup, lentil soup, black tea, yogurt aylan, rice pudding, grilled lamb roast beef, and minced meat pie Lahmacun.

















4. The beautiful western courtyard of the Turkish restaurant

On May 6, 2021, Iftar ate the Ramadan set meal at Xiting Xiuse in Xinyuanli. There are two types of chicken and mutton, which are different every day. The lamb we caught yesterday was Karabakh Pilaf, and the chicken was grilled chicken wings.

Karabakh is an area on the border between Azerbaijan and Armenia. Its name comes from the Turkic word "Kara (black)" and the Persian word "Bagh (garden)". Most of the people living here are Azerbaijanis. The Karabakh pilaf we ate was stewed lamb with apricots, and the rice was yellow because it was dyed with saffron juice. I had eaten this kind of apricot + saffron pilaf while listening to Azerbaijani Muqam when I was playing in Baku. It was very friendly this time.

In addition to the main course, the soup in the set menu is the classic red lentil soup. The side dishes are hummus with hummus, yogurt tomato sauce and carrot cheese sauce, as well as nut and pepper salad. The main dish is spinach Pide pancake, which is delicious with spinach and cheese. The drinks are Ayran and black tea. Their Ayran is not particularly sour. Finally there was rice pudding and Semolina for dessert.

In general, this package is quite cost-effective in the embassy area!



















On June 24, 2020, I ate Lentil soup, cucumber yogurt, grape coconut meat roll Dolma, meat pie Kofte, beef cheese Pide pie, Ayran yogurt and pomegranate juice chicken at the Turkish restaurant Xiting Xiuse in Xinyuanli. Their store has been open for a year, and the store manager is a Turkmen from Turkmenistan. He stayed in Beijing after studying abroad at Communication University. The head chef is an Azerbaijani from Istanbul and works at five o'clock every day. The waiters in the store are also Kazakhs from Kazakhstan. I think theirs is really delicious. The Pide pancakes are very fragrant fresh out of the oven and the meat quality is also very good. The last photo is a beautiful photo of the chef sent to us by the store manager.









Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces Eating South Asian and Middle Eastern Food in Beijing (Part 1). I have been to many Middle Eastern and South Asian restaurants in Beijing in the past few years, some of which have closed. It is useful for readers interested in Beijing Halal Food, Muslim Travel, Middle Eastern Food.

I have been to many Middle Eastern and South Asian restaurants in Beijing in the past few years, some of which have closed. I have been thinking about sorting it out in the past few days. Next, I will try all the restaurants I have not been to. Now I will share with you the restaurants I have been to.

First, let’s list the South Asian and Middle Eastern restaurants in Beijing that I know: Al Ameen (Lebanon), Al Safir (Jordan), BRBR (Syria), One Thousand and One Nights (Arabia), Taiba Guijie Store (Arabia), Turkish Mama (Turkey), Rumi's Secret (Turkey), Xiting Xiuse (Turkey), Dardaniel (Azerbaijan/Turkey) (It), Desert Rose (Azerbaijan/Turkey), Doner&Kebab (Azerbaijan/Turkey), Kavkaz (Azerbaijan), Iranian Food (the Iranian boss has returned to China and is currently run by Chinese), Khan Baba (Pakistan), Zam Zam (Pakistan), Lahore Restaurant (Pakistan), Benjabi (India), Indian Chef (India), Land of Masala (India), Sadhuli (India).

Newly opened in 2021: Zayton (Palestine), Istanbul (Türkiye), Qubbe (Türkiye), Taiba Sanlitun Store (Arabia).

One that was written in 2020 but closed in 2021: Meza (Tunisia).

I have eaten at restaurants that are closed: Camel Restaurant (Morocco), Nayir (Azerbaijan), Shashi Castle (Uzbekistan), Enchant (Turkey), and Bata Pancake (Israel).

1. Arabia

1. Jordanian restaurant Al Safir

On April 18, 2021, Ramadan Iftar had a buffet at the Jordanian restaurant Al Safir in Sanyuanqiao. It was a good opportunity to experience Levantine salads and various sauces! Now you can try all the things you wouldn’t normally order. The most classic ones are of course Hummus and Falafel. The most authentic way to eat them is to eat them with pita bread, sandwiching various sauces and falafel. The main courses include fish, lamb chops, chicken stewed rice, fried chicken, adzuki bean soup and various juices, including grape juice. Their lamb chops are so delicious, it feels like they were grilled first? The taste is particularly good.













It was Zainab’s birthday on May 20, 2020. Iftar and I went to Al Safir. Ever since Zainab ate with their family last year, we have fallen in love with Arabic food, especially Levantine food. We were originally going to divorce and go to the Middle East together this year, but now we have to eat at Arabic restaurants to satisfy our cravings.

They can order a la carte and eat Iftar's buffet, as well as Iftar's dates. We had a buffet with a variety of salads and cups of Arabic bean soup. I ordered Beirut Hummus with garlic flavor, Falafel with fried chickpeas, and a barbecue platter. Their barbecue is delicious!

The more distinctive one is the yogurt sauce Kibbeh, which is a small scone made by grinding wheat, onions, beef, lamb and various Middle Eastern spices (cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, etc.). It has fried beef on the outside and lamb filling on the inside. The word kibbeh comes from the North Levantine Arabic word meaning ball, and the dish originated in the Levant region and is popular throughout the Middle East.

















On July 17, 2019, I had adzuki bean soup, mutton Hummus, Falafel, thick yogurt, cucumber yogurt and grilled meat platter at Al Safir. I really enjoyed it.

Hummus and Falafel are both specialty delicacies of the Levant region on the east coast of the Mediterranean. Hummus is super delicious in various ways. I have also been a fan of adzuki bean soup since I ate it in the Palestinian restaurant on campus when I was in college, but it is a bit too hot to eat in the summer.

I love their roast lamb so much! It's very tender, and it's so satisfying to wrap it in Arabic pancakes dipped in tomato sauce. Their barbecue is so delicious that there was an incident where I ate several pieces of the barbecue before I even remembered to take a photo www











On January 10, 2019, we had adzuki bean soup, mutton hummus, grilled fish and mint tea at Al Safir, a Jordanian restaurant in Sanyuanqiao. I especially like their Pi Ya Zi sauce! Have to add another portion each time.







2. Lebanese restaurant Al Ameen

On September 24, 2020, when my mother-in-law came to Beijing for her first meal, we ate at Al Ameen, a Lebanese restaurant next to the German Embassy outside Dongzhimen. I have eaten there for many years. It was closed for renovation for a period of time, and it reopened last year. This year, I feel that their family is obviously not as big as before YQ, and the dishes have become less. I hope their family can survive this difficult time.

I ordered the more classic appetizer platter (Hummus hummus, carrot puree, yogurt, Mutebbel eggplant yogurt sauce)\cream of mushroom soup, lentil soup, vegetable soup, chicken soup, barbecue platter and grilled vegetable platter. What’s more special is the Mahashi, a rice dumpling with lamb bone and vegetables.

Mahashi is made of Lebanese zucchini (Kusa) and eggplant stuffed with meat and rice, and cooked with tomato sauce, cumin and broth. Mahashi is a classic Ottoman dish that can be found throughout the pre-Ottoman regions from the Balkans to the Levant (eastern coast of the Mediterranean) and Egypt, and is prepared differently in each region. Mahashi is a common dish served at banquets at weddings, family gatherings and Eid.













On September 26, 2019, I went to the Lebanese restaurant Alameen in Sanlitun. After the renovation, it became a lot bigger and some new dishes were added. I will try it when I have time in the future. This time I had a platter of chickpea hummus sauce, eggplant sauce, yogurt, adzuki bean soup, cream of mushroom soup, lamb naan, lamb chops, fried fish and lemongrass mint tea. One of the more distinctive ones is Kibbeh, a Levantine barbecue.













On May 26, 2019, I ate roasted lamb leg, lentil soup and hummus at the Lebanese restaurant Alameen outside Dongzhimen in the evening.



3. Meza, a Tunisian restaurant (closed)

On the evening of December 21, 2020, I went to the Tunisian restaurant Mesa, which was newly opened in November. After the Moroccan restaurant Camel Team Restaurant and Bar closed due to the epidemic (the owner ran away), there is a North African restaurant in Beijing. (Unfortunately it will be closed again in 2021).

I ordered Brik with Tuna, sizzling Shakshuka with eggs, grilled chicken skewers, Tunisian sausage (Merguez), Baba Ganoush, pickle platter, lentil soup, and also ordered Tajine Couscous with various grilled meats, which was not on the menu.

Brik pie is a North African Berber dish that was later brought to Israel by Tunisian Jews. The filling is usually filled with eggs, tuna, harissa, parsley, etc., and then wrapped in crispy noodles called Malsouka or Warka and fried.

Shakshuka is a stew of eggs, tomatoes and onions, usually with olive oil, chili, garlic, cumin, nutmeg and other spices. Shakshouka, which means "mixture" in Arabic, is widely distributed in the former Ottoman lands and Andalusia, and was brought to Israel by Tunisian Jews. The dish was originally just a stew of minced meat or liver. Tomatoes and peppers were later introduced from the Americas, and eggs are often added to the Tunisian version.

Merguez is a North African sausage made from lamb and beef, mixed with cumin, harissa, chili peppers and other spices, and is usually grilled. Merguez sausage was first seen in Andalusia in the 12th century, that is, southern Spain under Arab rule. At that time, it was pronounced as mirkās or merkās in Andalusian Arabic. Later it spread throughout North Africa and then to France and Germany.

Baba ghanoush is a Middle Eastern Levantine appetizer, which is made of cooked eggplant puree mixed with sesame sauce and olive oil, lemon juice and other seasonings. It is usually dipped in pita.

Tajine is a North African Berber specialty. Tajine in North African Arabic originates from ancient Greek, and its original meaning is pan. The tagine can be traced back to Harun al-Rashid, the fifth generation caliph of the Bassi Dynasty in the 8th-9th century, and appears in the 9th-century masterpiece "One Thousand and One Nights". Today's tagines are made of pottery, sometimes glazed, with a rounded flat bottom and a cone or dome on top. This design allows all evaporated water vapor to return to the bottom, and water can be added from the hole in the lid.

Couscous, a staple of Berber cuisine, is made from semolina rolled into millet-sized particles and then dried in the sun. Couscous was first seen in North Africa from the 11th to the 13th century. In the 13th century, Ibn Razin al-Tuyibi, a famous Andalusian scholar and gourmet, first recorded the recipe of couscous in his book "Andalusian Cookbook".



















4. Arabic fast food restaurant Taiba

On January 17, 2021, Taiba, a new Arabic fast food restaurant, was recently opened on Guijie Street. I ate Arabic pizza Lahmacun, hummus, and chickpea croquettes Falafel, and drank Middle Eastern black tea with strong spices. Their little brother is from Sudan and speaks Chinese very well. In addition, they mainly serve takeout, and if you want to dine in, you can only eat at the noodle shop next to it.

Lahmacun comes from Arabic (لحم بعجين), which literally translates to "meat and dough". During the Ottoman era, Lahmacun spread from Arabia to pre-Ottoman regions such as Turkey and Armenia, so it was also called "Turkish pizza" or "Armenian pizza", but the basic method is to make thin pancakes with minced meat.















5. Syrian Restaurant BRBR

On March 7, 2021, we ate at BRBR, a Syrian restaurant in Wudaokou, at noon. I have heard about their restaurant for a long time, but I have never eaten there since I live too far away from the city. This is the first time I have eaten there. I feel deeply that their family is so popular! We went there after two o'clock and had to wait for a long time to be seated. All the young people came to eat.

Syrian cuisine is also a relatively standard Levantine cuisine. The most classic ones are hummus and falafel, but we didn’t order them this time. Ordered lentil soup, grilled meat platter (Shuqaf mutton skewers, traditional Kabab, chicken skewers and chicken wings), half grilled chicken, chickpea broad beans with tahini sauce, lemon mint.

What was special this time was the traditional Arab Mandi mutton rice. Mandi originated from Yemen and is popular in the Arabian Peninsula, Egypt and the Levant. Mandi is usually made of rice, meat (mutton, camel or chicken) and Hawaij spices. Hawaij is also a special spice originating from Yemen. It can be used for cooking, soup and coffee. The main ingredients are cumin, black pepper, turmeric and cardamom. The taste of Mandi is drier than ordinary curry rice.



















2. Türkiye and Azerbaijan

1. Turkish Mom

On January 10, 2020, after getting married, I went to Sanlitun's Turkish mother with Zainab. I ordered lentil and wheat soup, "Sultan's favorite", barbecue platter and rice pudding, and then drank tea and smoked shisha to talk about things. Turkish Mama is much better than the Iranian food next door. The grilled lamb and toasted bread are especially delicious. The wheat rice we originally ordered was returned because the bread was so delicious.

The Sultan's Favorite (Hünkar Heğendi) is a snack that originated in the Ottoman court. It uses rich stewed lamb with creamy roasted eggplant puree. It is quite rare in Beijing.













On October 19, 2019, Turkish mothers smoked hookah, drank tea, and ate baklava and rice pudding in the west of Changhong Bridge.





2. Turkish Restaurant Dardanelle

On August 11, 2019, after the Eid al-Adha celebrations, I went out to eat at the Turkish restaurant Dardanir in the Temple of Heaven. I ordered lentil soup, cream of chicken soup, assorted salads (hummus, yellow pepper puree, chili puree), mint yogurt, roasted lamb liver, tomato lamb kebabs, Lahmachun pizza, yogurt Ayran and rice pudding.



















On June 6, 2018, my friends and I went to Dardanelle on Shenlu Street to eat cream chicken soup, assorted barbecue, lamb cheese Pide, Mediterranean salad, rice pudding and Turkish black tea. I liked the lamb cheese Pide, it was really huge!

















3. The secret of Rumi in Turkish restaurant

On February 18, 2021, have an Ottoman breakfast at Rumi’s Secret in the Temple of the Sun and pretend to be in Türkiye.









On September 25, 2020, in the evening, our family welcomed Zainab’s mother and had a secret dinner at Rumi’s, a Turkish restaurant on Ritan Street. Since its opening this summer, Rumi’s Secret has become a popular place to visit in Jindosti, especially among Uyghur friends. Because they don't sell alcohol, I think their environment is the most comfortable among the many halal restaurants on Ritan Street, and it's very suitable for family gatherings.

This time we ordered carrot puree and yogurt and eggplant puree as appetizers, lentil soup and cream of mushroom soup as soup, and then ordered grilled chicken, skewers and Pide. The boss also gave us black tea and dessert after the meal. Zainab's mother drank Middle Eastern lentil soup for the first time and found it delicious. Their grilled chicken and grilled skewers are also quite delicious, but the most recommended thing is the three-piece Pide pancake, which is a combination of cheese, meat and vegetables. I think it is even more delicious than the Pide in several restaurants I have eaten in Turkey.



















On July 4, 2020, we ate at Rumi’s Secret, a Turkish restaurant on Ritan Street, at noon. Although their restaurant just opened in June, most of my dusty friends have tried it several times! The environment of their home is very good, suitable for chatting, and there are performances in the evening.

At their house, we had hummus hummus, carrot puree, cream of mushroom soup, lentil soup, black tea, yogurt aylan, rice pudding, grilled lamb roast beef, and minced meat pie Lahmacun.

















4. The beautiful western courtyard of the Turkish restaurant

On May 6, 2021, Iftar ate the Ramadan set meal at Xiting Xiuse in Xinyuanli. There are two types of chicken and mutton, which are different every day. The lamb we caught yesterday was Karabakh Pilaf, and the chicken was grilled chicken wings.

Karabakh is an area on the border between Azerbaijan and Armenia. Its name comes from the Turkic word "Kara (black)" and the Persian word "Bagh (garden)". Most of the people living here are Azerbaijanis. The Karabakh pilaf we ate was stewed lamb with apricots, and the rice was yellow because it was dyed with saffron juice. I had eaten this kind of apricot + saffron pilaf while listening to Azerbaijani Muqam when I was playing in Baku. It was very friendly this time.

In addition to the main course, the soup in the set menu is the classic red lentil soup. The side dishes are hummus with hummus, yogurt tomato sauce and carrot cheese sauce, as well as nut and pepper salad. The main dish is spinach Pide pancake, which is delicious with spinach and cheese. The drinks are Ayran and black tea. Their Ayran is not particularly sour. Finally there was rice pudding and Semolina for dessert.

In general, this package is quite cost-effective in the embassy area!



















On June 24, 2020, I ate Lentil soup, cucumber yogurt, grape coconut meat roll Dolma, meat pie Kofte, beef cheese Pide pie, Ayran yogurt and pomegranate juice chicken at the Turkish restaurant Xiting Xiuse in Xinyuanli. Their store has been open for a year, and the store manager is a Turkmen from Turkmenistan. He stayed in Beijing after studying abroad at Communication University. The head chef is an Azerbaijani from Istanbul and works at five o'clock every day. The waiters in the store are also Kazakhs from Kazakhstan. I think theirs is really delicious. The Pide pancakes are very fragrant fresh out of the oven and the meat quality is also very good. The last photo is a beautiful photo of the chef sent to us by the store manager.









Collapse Read »

Eating South Asian and Middle Eastern Food in Beijing (Part 1) (Section 3 of 4)

Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces Eating South Asian and Middle Eastern Food in Beijing (Part 1). Over the past few years, I have visited many Middle Eastern and South Asian restaurants in Beijing, some of which have already closed down. It is useful for readers interested in Beijing Halal Food, Muslim Travel, Middle Eastern Food.

4. Taiba Arabic fast food restaurant

On January 17, 2021, a new Arabic fast food restaurant called Taiba recently opened on Guijie Street. I ate Arabic Lahmacun pizza, Hummus, and Falafel, and also drank some Middle Eastern black tea with a rich spiced flavor. The young man working there is Sudanese, and his Chinese is quite good. Also, their business is mainly for takeout; if you want to dine in, you can only eat at the noodle shop next door.

Lahmacun originates from the Arabic language (لحم بعجين), which literally translates to "meat with dough." During the Ottoman era, Lahmacun spread from the Arab world to former Ottoman regions like Turkey and Armenia, so it is also called "Turkish pizza" or "Armenian pizza," though the basic preparation is always a thin crust topped with minced meat.















5. Syrian restaurant

On March 7, 2021, I had lunch at the Syrian restaurant BRBR in Wudaokou. I had heard about this place for a long time, but since I live in the city and it's too far away, I had never eaten here before; this was my first time. I have to say, this place is so popular! We went after two o'clock and still had to wait a long time for a table; it was full of young people.

Syrian cuisine is also a fairly standard Levantine cuisine, with the most classic dishes being hummus and falafel, though we didn't order those this time. We ordered lentil soup, a mixed grill platter (Shuqaf lamb skewers, traditional Kabab, chicken skewers, and chicken wings), half a roasted chicken, hummus with tahini and fava beans, and lemon mint.

A special highlight of this trip was eating traditional Arabic Mandi lamb rice; Mandi originated in Yemen and is popular in the Arabian Peninsula, Egypt, and the Levant region. Mandi is usually made with rice, meat (lamb, camel, or chicken), and Hawaij spices. Hawaij is also a specialty spice blend from Yemen that can be used for cooking rice, soups, and coffee; its main ingredients are cumin, black pepper, turmeric, and cardamom. The texture of Mandi is drier than regular curry rice.



















2. Turkey and Azerbaijan

1. Turkish mother

On January 10, 2020, after getting married, I went to Turkish Mama in Sanlitun with Zainab. We ordered lentil soup, 'Sultan's Delight,' a mixed grill platter, and rice pudding, then drank tea, smoked shisha, and had a heart-to-heart talk. Turkish Mama is much tastier than the Persian food next door; the grilled lamb and bread were especially delicious. We originally ordered rice, but because the bread was so good, we canceled the rice.

Sultan's Delight (Hünkar Beğendi) is a snack that originated in the Ottoman palace, featuring rich lamb stew served with creamy roasted eggplant puree, which is quite rare in Beijing.













On October 19, 2019, I smoked shisha, drank tea, and ate baklava and rice pudding with a Turkish mother west of Changhong Bridge.





2. Dardanelles Turkish Restaurant

On August 11, 2019, after the Eid al-Adha prayer, I ate at the Turkish restaurant Dardanelles on Ritan Upper Street. I ordered lentil soup, cream of chicken soup, assorted salads (hummus, yellow pepper dip, chili dip), mint yogurt, grilled lamb liver, tomato lamb skewers, Lahmacun flatbread, Ayran yogurt, and rice pudding.



















On June 6, 2018, after work, I went to Dardanelles on Shenlu Street with a friend and had cream of chicken soup, mixed grill, lamb and cheese pide, Mediterranean salad, as well as rice pudding and Turkish black tea. I must praise the lamb and cheese pide; it was truly huge!















Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces Eating South Asian and Middle Eastern Food in Beijing (Part 1). Over the past few years, I have visited many Middle Eastern and South Asian restaurants in Beijing, some of which have already closed down. It is useful for readers interested in Beijing Halal Food, Muslim Travel, Middle Eastern Food.

4. Taiba Arabic fast food restaurant

On January 17, 2021, a new Arabic fast food restaurant called Taiba recently opened on Guijie Street. I ate Arabic Lahmacun pizza, Hummus, and Falafel, and also drank some Middle Eastern black tea with a rich spiced flavor. The young man working there is Sudanese, and his Chinese is quite good. Also, their business is mainly for takeout; if you want to dine in, you can only eat at the noodle shop next door.

Lahmacun originates from the Arabic language (لحم بعجين), which literally translates to "meat with dough." During the Ottoman era, Lahmacun spread from the Arab world to former Ottoman regions like Turkey and Armenia, so it is also called "Turkish pizza" or "Armenian pizza," though the basic preparation is always a thin crust topped with minced meat.















5. Syrian restaurant

On March 7, 2021, I had lunch at the Syrian restaurant BRBR in Wudaokou. I had heard about this place for a long time, but since I live in the city and it's too far away, I had never eaten here before; this was my first time. I have to say, this place is so popular! We went after two o'clock and still had to wait a long time for a table; it was full of young people.

Syrian cuisine is also a fairly standard Levantine cuisine, with the most classic dishes being hummus and falafel, though we didn't order those this time. We ordered lentil soup, a mixed grill platter (Shuqaf lamb skewers, traditional Kabab, chicken skewers, and chicken wings), half a roasted chicken, hummus with tahini and fava beans, and lemon mint.

A special highlight of this trip was eating traditional Arabic Mandi lamb rice; Mandi originated in Yemen and is popular in the Arabian Peninsula, Egypt, and the Levant region. Mandi is usually made with rice, meat (lamb, camel, or chicken), and Hawaij spices. Hawaij is also a specialty spice blend from Yemen that can be used for cooking rice, soups, and coffee; its main ingredients are cumin, black pepper, turmeric, and cardamom. The texture of Mandi is drier than regular curry rice.



















2. Turkey and Azerbaijan

1. Turkish mother

On January 10, 2020, after getting married, I went to Turkish Mama in Sanlitun with Zainab. We ordered lentil soup, 'Sultan's Delight,' a mixed grill platter, and rice pudding, then drank tea, smoked shisha, and had a heart-to-heart talk. Turkish Mama is much tastier than the Persian food next door; the grilled lamb and bread were especially delicious. We originally ordered rice, but because the bread was so good, we canceled the rice.

Sultan's Delight (Hünkar Beğendi) is a snack that originated in the Ottoman palace, featuring rich lamb stew served with creamy roasted eggplant puree, which is quite rare in Beijing.













On October 19, 2019, I smoked shisha, drank tea, and ate baklava and rice pudding with a Turkish mother west of Changhong Bridge.





2. Dardanelles Turkish Restaurant

On August 11, 2019, after the Eid al-Adha prayer, I ate at the Turkish restaurant Dardanelles on Ritan Upper Street. I ordered lentil soup, cream of chicken soup, assorted salads (hummus, yellow pepper dip, chili dip), mint yogurt, grilled lamb liver, tomato lamb skewers, Lahmacun flatbread, Ayran yogurt, and rice pudding.



















On June 6, 2018, after work, I went to Dardanelles on Shenlu Street with a friend and had cream of chicken soup, mixed grill, lamb and cheese pide, Mediterranean salad, as well as rice pudding and Turkish black tea. I must praise the lamb and cheese pide; it was truly huge!















Collapse Read »

Eating South Asian and Middle Eastern Food in Beijing (Part 1) (Section 2 of 4)

Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces Eating South Asian and Middle Eastern Food in Beijing (Part 1). Over the past few years, I have visited many Middle Eastern and South Asian restaurants in Beijing, some of which have already closed down. It is useful for readers interested in Beijing Halal Food, Muslim Travel, Middle Eastern Food.

2. Lebanese restaurant Al Ameen

On September 24, 2020, for my mother-in-law's first meal after arriving in Beijing, we ate at the Lebanese restaurant Al Ameen next to the German Embassy outside Dongzhimen. I have been eating there for many years; they were closed for renovations for a while, but reopened last year. Visiting this year, I felt that there were clearly fewer people than before the pandemic, and the menu options had also decreased. I hope they can get through these difficult times.

We ordered the classic appetizer platter (hummus, carrot puree, yogurt, and mutabbal eggplant yogurt dip), cream of mushroom soup, lentil soup, vegetable soup, chicken soup, a grilled meat platter, and a grilled vegetable platter. A special dish we ordered was the Mahashi, which is lamb shank with vegetable-stuffed rice.

Mahashi is made by stuffing Lebanese zucchini (Kusa) and eggplant with a mixture of minced meat and rice, then cooking them in a sauce of tomato paste, cumin, and broth. Mahashi is a classic Ottoman dish found throughout former Ottoman regions from the Balkans to the Levant and Egypt, with each region having its own unique way of preparing it. Mahashi is a common dish served at weddings, family gatherings, and Eid al-Fitr feasts.













On September 26, 2019, I went to the Lebanese restaurant Alameen in Sanlitun. It has become much larger after the renovation and some new dishes have been added, so I will try them when I have time in the future. This time I had a platter with hummus, baba ghanoush, yogurt, etc., along with lentil soup, cream of mushroom soup, lamb flatbread, lamb chops, pan-fried fish, and lemongrass mint tea. Among them, the most distinctive dish was the Levantine meat pie, Kibbeh.













On May 26, 2019, I had roasted lamb leg, lentil soup, and hummus at the Lebanese restaurant Alameen outside Dongzhimen in the evening.



3. Tunisian restaurant Meza (closed)

On the evening of December 21, 2020, I went to Mesa, a Tunisian restaurant that opened in November. After the Moroccan restaurant Caravan closed due to the pandemic (the owner ran away), Beijing finally has a North African restaurant again. (Unfortunately, it closed again in 2021).

We ordered Brik with Tuna, sizzling Shakshuka with eggs, grilled chicken skewers, Merguez, Baba Ganoush, a platter of pickles, and lentil soup, and we also ordered Tajine and Couscous with various grilled meats that were not on the menu.

Brik is a North African Berber dish, which was later brought to Israel by Tunisian Jews. The filling usually contains eggs, tuna, Harissa, and parsley, and is then wrapped in a crispy pastry called Malsouka or Warka and deep-fried.

Shakshuka is a dish of eggs poached in a sauce of tomatoes and onions, usually seasoned with olive oil, chili peppers, garlic, cumin, nutmeg, and other spices. The word Shakshouka means "mixture" in Arabic; it is widely found across the former Ottoman regions and Andalusia, and was brought to Israel by Tunisian Jews. This dish was originally a stew of minced meat or liver, with tomatoes and chili peppers added later after being introduced from the Americas, and the Tunisian version typically includes eggs.

North African Merguez sausage is made with lamb and beef, mixed with cumin, harissa, chili, and various other spices, and is usually eaten grilled. Merguez sausage was first seen in the 12th century in Andalusia, which was southern Spain under Arab rule, and was pronounced mirkās or merkās in Andalusian Arabic at the time. Later, it spread throughout North Africa, and subsequently to France and Germany.

Baba ghanoush is a Middle Eastern Levantine appetizer made of mashed cooked eggplant mixed with tahini and olive oil, along with lemon juice and other seasonings, and is usually eaten by dipping pita bread into it.

Tajine is a specialty dish of the North African Berbers, and the word Tajine in North African Arabic originates from Ancient Greek, originally meaning a shallow pan. The tajine can be traced back to Harun al-Rashid, the fifth caliph of the Abbasid Dynasty in the 8th-9th centuries, and it appeared in the famous 9th-century work 'One Thousand and One Nights'. Modern tajines are made of pottery, sometimes glazed, with a round, flat bottom and a conical or domed top; this design allows all evaporated steam to return to the bottom, and water can be added through a hole in the lid.

Couscous is a staple of Berber cuisine, made by rolling semolina into millet-sized grains and then drying them in the sun. Couscous first appeared in North Africa between the 11th and 13th centuries, and the 13th-century Andalusian scholar and gourmet Ibn Razin al-Tuyibi was the first to record the method for making couscous in his book, 'The Andalusian Cookbook'.

















Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces Eating South Asian and Middle Eastern Food in Beijing (Part 1). Over the past few years, I have visited many Middle Eastern and South Asian restaurants in Beijing, some of which have already closed down. It is useful for readers interested in Beijing Halal Food, Muslim Travel, Middle Eastern Food.

2. Lebanese restaurant Al Ameen

On September 24, 2020, for my mother-in-law's first meal after arriving in Beijing, we ate at the Lebanese restaurant Al Ameen next to the German Embassy outside Dongzhimen. I have been eating there for many years; they were closed for renovations for a while, but reopened last year. Visiting this year, I felt that there were clearly fewer people than before the pandemic, and the menu options had also decreased. I hope they can get through these difficult times.

We ordered the classic appetizer platter (hummus, carrot puree, yogurt, and mutabbal eggplant yogurt dip), cream of mushroom soup, lentil soup, vegetable soup, chicken soup, a grilled meat platter, and a grilled vegetable platter. A special dish we ordered was the Mahashi, which is lamb shank with vegetable-stuffed rice.

Mahashi is made by stuffing Lebanese zucchini (Kusa) and eggplant with a mixture of minced meat and rice, then cooking them in a sauce of tomato paste, cumin, and broth. Mahashi is a classic Ottoman dish found throughout former Ottoman regions from the Balkans to the Levant and Egypt, with each region having its own unique way of preparing it. Mahashi is a common dish served at weddings, family gatherings, and Eid al-Fitr feasts.













On September 26, 2019, I went to the Lebanese restaurant Alameen in Sanlitun. It has become much larger after the renovation and some new dishes have been added, so I will try them when I have time in the future. This time I had a platter with hummus, baba ghanoush, yogurt, etc., along with lentil soup, cream of mushroom soup, lamb flatbread, lamb chops, pan-fried fish, and lemongrass mint tea. Among them, the most distinctive dish was the Levantine meat pie, Kibbeh.













On May 26, 2019, I had roasted lamb leg, lentil soup, and hummus at the Lebanese restaurant Alameen outside Dongzhimen in the evening.



3. Tunisian restaurant Meza (closed)

On the evening of December 21, 2020, I went to Mesa, a Tunisian restaurant that opened in November. After the Moroccan restaurant Caravan closed due to the pandemic (the owner ran away), Beijing finally has a North African restaurant again. (Unfortunately, it closed again in 2021).

We ordered Brik with Tuna, sizzling Shakshuka with eggs, grilled chicken skewers, Merguez, Baba Ganoush, a platter of pickles, and lentil soup, and we also ordered Tajine and Couscous with various grilled meats that were not on the menu.

Brik is a North African Berber dish, which was later brought to Israel by Tunisian Jews. The filling usually contains eggs, tuna, Harissa, and parsley, and is then wrapped in a crispy pastry called Malsouka or Warka and deep-fried.

Shakshuka is a dish of eggs poached in a sauce of tomatoes and onions, usually seasoned with olive oil, chili peppers, garlic, cumin, nutmeg, and other spices. The word Shakshouka means "mixture" in Arabic; it is widely found across the former Ottoman regions and Andalusia, and was brought to Israel by Tunisian Jews. This dish was originally a stew of minced meat or liver, with tomatoes and chili peppers added later after being introduced from the Americas, and the Tunisian version typically includes eggs.

North African Merguez sausage is made with lamb and beef, mixed with cumin, harissa, chili, and various other spices, and is usually eaten grilled. Merguez sausage was first seen in the 12th century in Andalusia, which was southern Spain under Arab rule, and was pronounced mirkās or merkās in Andalusian Arabic at the time. Later, it spread throughout North Africa, and subsequently to France and Germany.

Baba ghanoush is a Middle Eastern Levantine appetizer made of mashed cooked eggplant mixed with tahini and olive oil, along with lemon juice and other seasonings, and is usually eaten by dipping pita bread into it.

Tajine is a specialty dish of the North African Berbers, and the word Tajine in North African Arabic originates from Ancient Greek, originally meaning a shallow pan. The tajine can be traced back to Harun al-Rashid, the fifth caliph of the Abbasid Dynasty in the 8th-9th centuries, and it appeared in the famous 9th-century work 'One Thousand and One Nights'. Modern tajines are made of pottery, sometimes glazed, with a round, flat bottom and a conical or domed top; this design allows all evaporated steam to return to the bottom, and water can be added through a hole in the lid.

Couscous is a staple of Berber cuisine, made by rolling semolina into millet-sized grains and then drying them in the sun. Couscous first appeared in North Africa between the 11th and 13th centuries, and the 13th-century Andalusian scholar and gourmet Ibn Razin al-Tuyibi was the first to record the method for making couscous in his book, 'The Andalusian Cookbook'.

















Collapse Read »

Nine Traditional Mosques and Three Gongbei Shrines in Qinghai (Part 1)

Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces Nine Traditional Mosques and Three Gongbei Shrines in Qinghai (Part 1). Hongshuiquan Mosque is located in Hongshuiquan Township, Ping'an District, Haidong City. It is useful for readers interested in Qinghai Mosques, Chinese Muslims, Muslim Heritage.

Above, mosque

1. Hongshuiquan Mosque

2. Qingshuihe East Mosque

3. Mengda Mosque

4. Tashapo Mosque

5. Labian Mosque

6. Zhangga Mosque

7. Kewa Mosque

8. Su Zhi Mosque

9. Ahetan Mosque

Xia, Gongbei

1. Shangmajia Gongbei in Bazang Valley

2. Bazanggou Shangmazhuang Gongbei

3. Jiezi Gongbei

Above, mosque

1. Hongshuiquan Mosque

Hongshuiquan Mosque is located in Hongshuiquan Township, Ping'an District, Haidong City. The buildings preserved today are basically in the style of the Qianlong era, and I personally think it is the most beautiful ancient mosque in Qinghai.

I took the early flight on Saturday from Beijing to Xining Airport, and called a Didi as soon as I got out. Although Hongshuiquan Mosque is less than 20 kilometers away from Xining Airport, the road is full of winding mountain paths, and with the rain, the drive felt a bit thrilling.





The mosque's screen wall is built from imitation wood blue bricks, and the side facing the main gate is carved with a 'Hundred Flowers Picture' made of 255 hydrangea petals, with each design being unique. The uncle who manages the mosque said that legend has it that when the mosque was being built, a lady steamed buns for the craftsmen every day, so the craftsmen carved the shapes of these buns onto it. The back of the screen wall features a large brick carving of 'Qilin and Phoenix Bringing Prosperity'.















The unicorn and the phoenix bring good fortune



The main gate has a beamless structure, and the ceiling is built entirely by stacking and interlocking short crossbeams instead of using roof beams.











On the splayed walls to the left and right of the main gate are two large green brick carvings of 'mice stealing grapes' and 'a qilin with a pine tree,' created using the traditional single-layer high-relief brick carving technique. The mouse represents 'zi,' symbolizing many children and grandchildren. The pine tree sounds like 'song' (to send), symbolizing 'the qilin bringing a child.'









The Bangke Tower is a three-eaved, hexagonal, spire-roofed pavilion supported by two massive central pillars, with 12 surrounding pillars, a structure known as 'two men carrying mountains with twelve oxen'. The ground floor of the Bangke Tower features brick carvings of 'cats leaping and butterflies dancing', 'rabbits guarding cabbage', and 'plum blossoms, orchids, bamboo, and chrysanthemums', with a style somewhat similar to Shanxi brick carvings from the late Ming to early Qing dynasties. The words for 'cat' and 'butterfly' sound like 'taotie', symbolizing longevity. The word for 'cabbage' sounds like 'hundreds of wealth', and rabbits are considered good at guarding wealth.













The mosque is divided into front and back courtyards by brick walls on both sides of the minaret.







The main hall has a vaulted gable-and-hip roof and consists of three parts: the front porch, the main hall, and the rear kiln-style hall. The roof ridge of the main hall features openwork glazed brick carvings and architectural models of dougong-style halls, with ornaments inspired by the 'treasure vases' placed on the roof ridges of Tibetan Buddhist temples.













On both sides of the main hall, the eight-character screen panels are carved with patterns of 'peacocks playing with peonies', 'four arts and ruyi', 'bamboo and plum blossoms for double happiness', 'peace throughout the four seasons', 'jade hall and peace', 'joyful news of early spring', 'mandarin ducks playing in water', 'lotus flowers on a single stalk', and 'pomegranate bursting with a hundred seeds', as well as large seals, fish, conch shells, and various floral designs.









The front porch capitals use corbels to support the beam frame, which is in the Tibetan architectural style. The wooden carvings on the circular arch spandrels feature patterns such as 'two dragons playing with a pearl' and 'a dragon playing with a phoenix'. The wooden carvings at the junction of the eaves columns and inner columns feature 'dragon and tiger' patterns.















The rear hall is entirely made of wood carvings, with the upper part in the style of a celestial pavilion, featuring carved railings, partition doors, and dougong brackets. The caisson ceiling at the top resembles a giant open umbrella, commonly known as the 'heavenly canopy umbrella'.













The lower part uses a partition screen design, carved with various landscapes, plants, and pavilions, but unfortunately, the Arabic wood carvings were destroyed during the Cultural Revolution. The door apron panels are entirely carved with the character 'Shou' (longevity) in different calligraphic styles.



The mihrab niche is shaped like a vase. The mouth of the vase is carved with flowers, the petals feature some patterns of the Buddhist 'Eight Treasures', and the outer edges are carved with floral patterns.





2. Qingshuihe East Mosque

Qingshuihe East Mosque is located in Shangzhuang Village, Qingshui Township, Xunhua County. It is the Haizi Mosque (the main mosque) of the Salar Bagong Qingshui Gong, originally built in 1425 and rebuilt many times throughout the generations.

First, let's admire the 17-meter-high minaret, with its double-eaved hexagonal spire featuring exquisite brick and wood carvings.





















The main hall of the mosque features a ridge-top hip-and-gable roof with projecting dougong brackets, brick-carved splayed walls on both sides, and brick-carved corridor walls to the north and south of the veranda, with each window featuring a unique lattice design.



















Inside the main prayer hall



















The vaulted hall and the mihrab, with intricate wood carvings.













3. Mengda Mosque

Mengda Mosque is located in Dazhuang Village, Mengda Township, Xunhua County. It was first built in 1408 (the sixth year of the Yongle reign of the Ming Dynasty) and expanded three times during the Qing Dynasty. It is the Haiyi Mosque of the Mengda Gong, one of the eight Salar Gong.

The outermost part of the mosque consists of two wooden memorial archways with five-step dougong brackets, and in the middle is a three-eaved, hexagonal-roofed minaret. The minaret is 17 meters high, with the lower level made of hexagonal blue bricks, featuring brick-carved imitation wooden dougong brackets and brick-carved 'Tasmiyah' calligraphy.

















Main prayer hall



















Murals in the main prayer hall



















The mihrab of the kiln-style hall











Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces Nine Traditional Mosques and Three Gongbei Shrines in Qinghai (Part 1). Hongshuiquan Mosque is located in Hongshuiquan Township, Ping'an District, Haidong City. It is useful for readers interested in Qinghai Mosques, Chinese Muslims, Muslim Heritage.

Above, mosque

1. Hongshuiquan Mosque

2. Qingshuihe East Mosque

3. Mengda Mosque

4. Tashapo Mosque

5. Labian Mosque

6. Zhangga Mosque

7. Kewa Mosque

8. Su Zhi Mosque

9. Ahetan Mosque

Xia, Gongbei

1. Shangmajia Gongbei in Bazang Valley

2. Bazanggou Shangmazhuang Gongbei

3. Jiezi Gongbei

Above, mosque

1. Hongshuiquan Mosque

Hongshuiquan Mosque is located in Hongshuiquan Township, Ping'an District, Haidong City. The buildings preserved today are basically in the style of the Qianlong era, and I personally think it is the most beautiful ancient mosque in Qinghai.

I took the early flight on Saturday from Beijing to Xining Airport, and called a Didi as soon as I got out. Although Hongshuiquan Mosque is less than 20 kilometers away from Xining Airport, the road is full of winding mountain paths, and with the rain, the drive felt a bit thrilling.





The mosque's screen wall is built from imitation wood blue bricks, and the side facing the main gate is carved with a 'Hundred Flowers Picture' made of 255 hydrangea petals, with each design being unique. The uncle who manages the mosque said that legend has it that when the mosque was being built, a lady steamed buns for the craftsmen every day, so the craftsmen carved the shapes of these buns onto it. The back of the screen wall features a large brick carving of 'Qilin and Phoenix Bringing Prosperity'.















The unicorn and the phoenix bring good fortune



The main gate has a beamless structure, and the ceiling is built entirely by stacking and interlocking short crossbeams instead of using roof beams.











On the splayed walls to the left and right of the main gate are two large green brick carvings of 'mice stealing grapes' and 'a qilin with a pine tree,' created using the traditional single-layer high-relief brick carving technique. The mouse represents 'zi,' symbolizing many children and grandchildren. The pine tree sounds like 'song' (to send), symbolizing 'the qilin bringing a child.'









The Bangke Tower is a three-eaved, hexagonal, spire-roofed pavilion supported by two massive central pillars, with 12 surrounding pillars, a structure known as 'two men carrying mountains with twelve oxen'. The ground floor of the Bangke Tower features brick carvings of 'cats leaping and butterflies dancing', 'rabbits guarding cabbage', and 'plum blossoms, orchids, bamboo, and chrysanthemums', with a style somewhat similar to Shanxi brick carvings from the late Ming to early Qing dynasties. The words for 'cat' and 'butterfly' sound like 'taotie', symbolizing longevity. The word for 'cabbage' sounds like 'hundreds of wealth', and rabbits are considered good at guarding wealth.













The mosque is divided into front and back courtyards by brick walls on both sides of the minaret.







The main hall has a vaulted gable-and-hip roof and consists of three parts: the front porch, the main hall, and the rear kiln-style hall. The roof ridge of the main hall features openwork glazed brick carvings and architectural models of dougong-style halls, with ornaments inspired by the 'treasure vases' placed on the roof ridges of Tibetan Buddhist temples.













On both sides of the main hall, the eight-character screen panels are carved with patterns of 'peacocks playing with peonies', 'four arts and ruyi', 'bamboo and plum blossoms for double happiness', 'peace throughout the four seasons', 'jade hall and peace', 'joyful news of early spring', 'mandarin ducks playing in water', 'lotus flowers on a single stalk', and 'pomegranate bursting with a hundred seeds', as well as large seals, fish, conch shells, and various floral designs.









The front porch capitals use corbels to support the beam frame, which is in the Tibetan architectural style. The wooden carvings on the circular arch spandrels feature patterns such as 'two dragons playing with a pearl' and 'a dragon playing with a phoenix'. The wooden carvings at the junction of the eaves columns and inner columns feature 'dragon and tiger' patterns.















The rear hall is entirely made of wood carvings, with the upper part in the style of a celestial pavilion, featuring carved railings, partition doors, and dougong brackets. The caisson ceiling at the top resembles a giant open umbrella, commonly known as the 'heavenly canopy umbrella'.













The lower part uses a partition screen design, carved with various landscapes, plants, and pavilions, but unfortunately, the Arabic wood carvings were destroyed during the Cultural Revolution. The door apron panels are entirely carved with the character 'Shou' (longevity) in different calligraphic styles.



The mihrab niche is shaped like a vase. The mouth of the vase is carved with flowers, the petals feature some patterns of the Buddhist 'Eight Treasures', and the outer edges are carved with floral patterns.





2. Qingshuihe East Mosque

Qingshuihe East Mosque is located in Shangzhuang Village, Qingshui Township, Xunhua County. It is the Haizi Mosque (the main mosque) of the Salar Bagong Qingshui Gong, originally built in 1425 and rebuilt many times throughout the generations.

First, let's admire the 17-meter-high minaret, with its double-eaved hexagonal spire featuring exquisite brick and wood carvings.





















The main hall of the mosque features a ridge-top hip-and-gable roof with projecting dougong brackets, brick-carved splayed walls on both sides, and brick-carved corridor walls to the north and south of the veranda, with each window featuring a unique lattice design.



















Inside the main prayer hall



















The vaulted hall and the mihrab, with intricate wood carvings.













3. Mengda Mosque

Mengda Mosque is located in Dazhuang Village, Mengda Township, Xunhua County. It was first built in 1408 (the sixth year of the Yongle reign of the Ming Dynasty) and expanded three times during the Qing Dynasty. It is the Haiyi Mosque of the Mengda Gong, one of the eight Salar Gong.

The outermost part of the mosque consists of two wooden memorial archways with five-step dougong brackets, and in the middle is a three-eaved, hexagonal-roofed minaret. The minaret is 17 meters high, with the lower level made of hexagonal blue bricks, featuring brick-carved imitation wooden dougong brackets and brick-carved 'Tasmiyah' calligraphy.

















Main prayer hall



















Murals in the main prayer hall



















The mihrab of the kiln-style hall











Collapse Read »

Nine Traditional Mosques and Three Gongbei Shrines in Qinghai (Part 2)

Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces Nine Traditional Mosques and Three Gongbei Shrines in Qinghai (Part 2). Tashapo Mosque in Xunhua was first built in 1480 (the 16th year of the Chenghua reign of the Ming Dynasty) and rebuilt in 1755 (the 20th year of the Qianlong reign of the Qing Dynasty). It is useful for readers interested in Qinghai Mosques, Chinese Muslims, Muslim Heritage.

























The combination of flowers, plants, and calligraphy















4. Tashapo Mosque

Tashapo Mosque in Xunhua was first built in 1480 (the 16th year of the Chenghua reign of the Ming Dynasty) and rebuilt in 1755 (the 20th year of the Qianlong reign of the Qing Dynasty).

The base of the mosque's minaret is made of brick, while the upper part is a wooden pavilion with a double-eaved hexagonal spire. Inside, there is a hexagonal caisson ceiling that tapers layer by layer, which is very exquisite.























The gatehouse is a three-bay, three-story hip-roof structure, with grey brick splayed walls on both sides and a screen wall in front of the gate.















The main prayer hall of the mosque



















Inside the main hall, there are exquisite wood carvings. It is a great pity that only a very few parts of the murals have been preserved, and this is the first time I have seen quotations inside the main hall; previously, I had only seen them on the outer walls of the main hall.



















5. Labian Mosque

Labian Mosque in Xunhua County was first built during the Qianlong reign; the main hall was rebuilt in 2015, and only the minaret and the two side gate towers remain of the ancient architecture. The minaret is 18 meters high, with a brick-built lower level and a wooden pavilion on the upper level, featuring dougong brackets, upturned eaves, and a hexagonal spire.



















6. Zhangga Mosque

Zhangga Mosque in Xunhua County was first built in 1406 (the fourth year of the Yongle reign of the Ming Dynasty) and rebuilt during the Qing Dynasty. The minaret is 23 meters high, with a brick-built lower level and a wooden pavilion on the upper level, featuring a double-eaved hexagonal spire, and the top-level hexagonal caisson ceiling is formed by three layers of stacked dougong brackets in an inverted bucket shape.

















The main hall of the mosque, though it is a pity that much of the wooden structure has been renovated and replaced.



















The murals remaining in the main hall depict Mecca using traditional Chinese painting techniques.













7. Kewa Mosque

Kewa Mosque in Xunhua County was first built in 1403 (the first year of the Yongle reign of the Ming Dynasty) and expanded during the Qing Dynasty; it is the Hayit Mosque (Jumu'ah Mosque) for the Salar people's eight Gong and nine Gong groups. The lower level of the minaret is made of brick with exquisite calligraphy and landscape brick carvings, while the upper level is a wooden pavilion with a double-eaved hexagonal roof.



















To the right of the main hall is a larger main hall that was newly built in the northern part of the complex in recent years. I believe this approach of building a new main hall next to the historic one is the best choice at this stage, as it meets the needs of religious activities while protecting the original historic building. However, this approach is still in the minority; most practices involve demolishing the original historic building and rebuilding a new one. It is only because the Kewa Mosque itself is a national-level cultural relic protection unit that it is impossible to demolish the historic building.



















Kewa Mosque has the richest murals among traditional Salar mosques. Let me first share the murals on the south side of the main hall, which are all about Surahs.





























Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces Nine Traditional Mosques and Three Gongbei Shrines in Qinghai (Part 2). Tashapo Mosque in Xunhua was first built in 1480 (the 16th year of the Chenghua reign of the Ming Dynasty) and rebuilt in 1755 (the 20th year of the Qianlong reign of the Qing Dynasty). It is useful for readers interested in Qinghai Mosques, Chinese Muslims, Muslim Heritage.

























The combination of flowers, plants, and calligraphy















4. Tashapo Mosque

Tashapo Mosque in Xunhua was first built in 1480 (the 16th year of the Chenghua reign of the Ming Dynasty) and rebuilt in 1755 (the 20th year of the Qianlong reign of the Qing Dynasty).

The base of the mosque's minaret is made of brick, while the upper part is a wooden pavilion with a double-eaved hexagonal spire. Inside, there is a hexagonal caisson ceiling that tapers layer by layer, which is very exquisite.























The gatehouse is a three-bay, three-story hip-roof structure, with grey brick splayed walls on both sides and a screen wall in front of the gate.















The main prayer hall of the mosque



















Inside the main hall, there are exquisite wood carvings. It is a great pity that only a very few parts of the murals have been preserved, and this is the first time I have seen quotations inside the main hall; previously, I had only seen them on the outer walls of the main hall.



















5. Labian Mosque

Labian Mosque in Xunhua County was first built during the Qianlong reign; the main hall was rebuilt in 2015, and only the minaret and the two side gate towers remain of the ancient architecture. The minaret is 18 meters high, with a brick-built lower level and a wooden pavilion on the upper level, featuring dougong brackets, upturned eaves, and a hexagonal spire.



















6. Zhangga Mosque

Zhangga Mosque in Xunhua County was first built in 1406 (the fourth year of the Yongle reign of the Ming Dynasty) and rebuilt during the Qing Dynasty. The minaret is 23 meters high, with a brick-built lower level and a wooden pavilion on the upper level, featuring a double-eaved hexagonal spire, and the top-level hexagonal caisson ceiling is formed by three layers of stacked dougong brackets in an inverted bucket shape.

















The main hall of the mosque, though it is a pity that much of the wooden structure has been renovated and replaced.



















The murals remaining in the main hall depict Mecca using traditional Chinese painting techniques.













7. Kewa Mosque

Kewa Mosque in Xunhua County was first built in 1403 (the first year of the Yongle reign of the Ming Dynasty) and expanded during the Qing Dynasty; it is the Hayit Mosque (Jumu'ah Mosque) for the Salar people's eight Gong and nine Gong groups. The lower level of the minaret is made of brick with exquisite calligraphy and landscape brick carvings, while the upper level is a wooden pavilion with a double-eaved hexagonal roof.



















To the right of the main hall is a larger main hall that was newly built in the northern part of the complex in recent years. I believe this approach of building a new main hall next to the historic one is the best choice at this stage, as it meets the needs of religious activities while protecting the original historic building. However, this approach is still in the minority; most practices involve demolishing the original historic building and rebuilding a new one. It is only because the Kewa Mosque itself is a national-level cultural relic protection unit that it is impossible to demolish the historic building.



















Kewa Mosque has the richest murals among traditional Salar mosques. Let me first share the murals on the south side of the main hall, which are all about Surahs.





























Collapse Read »

Nine Traditional Mosques and Three Gongbei Shrines in Qinghai (Part 3)

Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces Nine Traditional Mosques and Three Gongbei Shrines in Qinghai (Part 3). Wall paintings in the kiln hall. It is useful for readers interested in Qinghai Mosques, Chinese Muslims, Muslim Heritage.

























Wall paintings in the kiln hall.

















Mihrab niche





















Seal script mural













8. Su Zhi Mosque

Suzhi Mosque in Xunhua County was first built in 1460 (the fourth year of the Tianshun reign of the Ming Dynasty) and expanded during the Qing Dynasty; it is the Haizi Mosque for the Salar people of the Suzhi area and is currently a cultural relic protection unit of Qinghai Province.



















9. Ahetan Mosque

Although Ahetan Mosque in Hualong County is located north of the Yellow River in Hualong County, it is still a Salar mosque and, like Suzhi Mosque, belongs to the Suzhi Gong of the Salar Eight Gongs.

The mosque's three-bay, four-pillar, three-story hip-roof gate tower is 9 meters high, with the Five Pillars of Islam—Shahada, Salah, Zakat, Sawm, and Hajj—carved in the center, topped by a triangular arrangement of dougong brackets with nine steps and four cantilevered arms.







The brick-carved screen wall outside the gate tower.





(Optional) Image description

Delete



The 18-meter-high minaret has a brick base and a wooden pavilion on the upper level.















In the main hall of the mosque, we were warmly welcomed by the Imam.



















Xia, Gongbei

1. Shangmajia Gongbei in Bazang Valley

Shangmajia Shang Gongbei is located on the summit of Woniu Mountain in Bazanggou, Ping'an District, Haidong City, so it is also called Woniu Mountain Gongbei; it is the tomb of Ma Diangong (1643-1715) of the Hufeiye Xianmen Menhuan.

Ma Diangong is known as Ma Ahong Taiye and is a local from Shangma Village in Bazanggou. He was eager to learn from a young age, entering the Xining Dongguan Mosque at 7 to study, and at 24, he was appointed as the Imam of the Xining Beiguan Mosque after completing his religious training. During his time at the Beiguan Mosque, he was entrusted by Huazhe Abdullahi and Apak Khoja to teach the scriptures to Xian Meizhen (Zhuzi Taiye). After Xian Meizhen founded the Xianmen Menhuan, Ma Diangong became his Naib (deputy). Before Xian Meizhen returned to Allah, because his eldest son Xian Huazhe was still young, he entrusted him to Ma Diangong and asked him to preside over religious affairs.

During the reign of Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty, the third-generation Sheikh Xian Chengde (Grandfather Chuanli) built the Gongbei for Ma Diangong; it was destroyed in 1867 and rebuilt in the early years of the Guangxu reign under the leadership of the fourth master, Grandfather Xian Linqing.

Today, the Gongbei preserves the two-courtyard layout from the Guangxu era very well and has been designated as a cultural relic protection unit of Qinghai Province.

Pushing open the gate of the Gongbei, it feels as if you could step right into the Qing Dynasty; it has a very special atmosphere. The interior has not been over-restored at all, allowing you to appreciate the exquisite Qing Dynasty brick and wood carvings, and the elder guarding the Gongbei is also very warm and friendly. Although the entire Gongbei is built on a hilltop, it does not have the helmet-roofed tomb pavilion typical of renovated Gongbeis, but is instead a traditional courtyard, which gives it a unique charm.



The mountain opposite









The screen wall outside the gate



Main gate





Looking at the main gate from inside



As soon as you enter the courtyard



The side rooms on both sides







Second gate











Mausoleum







2. Shangmazhuang Gongbei in Bazanggou

The Xia-Gongbei of Shangmazhuang in Bazanggou, Ping'an District, Haidong City, is the Gongbei of Xian Chengde (known as Chuanli Taiye), the third-generation Sheikh of the Xianmen Menhuan of the Khufiyya order. Xian Chengde built this Gongbei during the Jiaqing reign, and shortly after its completion in 1812, Xian Chengde returned to Allah, and the followers buried him here. In 1895, the fifth-generation Sheikh of the Xianmen, Xian Linyuan, returned to Allah and was also buried in the Xia-Gongbei.

Like the Upper Gongbei, the Lower Gongbei is a cultural relic protection unit of Qinghai Province, and it also consists of two courtyards, one in front and one behind, but it is larger in scale than the Upper Gongbei. The front courtyard has been destroyed and only the main gate remains, but the back courtyard is very well preserved and is a masterpiece of Qing Dynasty brick carving art.



The front courtyard gate; after entering, you can see the ceremonial gate of the back courtyard. The ceremonial gate features brick-carved dougong, with the Tasmiya carved in the center and various flowers below it.







The screen walls on both sides are carved with numerous hydrangea petals, each with a unique shape. The center is carved with a 'Joyful News of Early Spring' pattern, surrounded by four bats. The Sumeru pedestal is carved with the Eight Immortals' emblems, as well as patterns of pomegranates, finger citrons, peonies, and lotus flowers.









The brick carvings of pomegranates, peonies, the Eight Immortals' emblems, and hydrangea petals on the screen wall of the ceremonial gate. This hydrangea petal design is exactly the same as the one on the screen wall of the famous Hongshuiquan Mosque in Haidong.













The north wall screen has brick-carved dougong brackets at the top and a gabled roof. The upper part of the central screen is carved with the four Chinese characters 'Can Xia Bi Luo', with Arabic calligraphy in the center, Arabic couplets on both sides, and brick carvings of carp leaping over the dragon gate at the bottom of the couplets. The centers of the side screens feature the Chinese character 'Shou' in seal script, along with the couplets: 'Riding the phoenix to fly to the pure land, transforming into a crane to return to the pure palace.' "

















The main mausoleum is under renovation, and you can see the exquisite Arabic brick carvings and the removed roof tiles.



















Various brick carvings on the screen wall.

"Rabbit guarding cabbage," where "cabbage" sounds like "hundreds of wealth," and rabbits are considered good at guarding wealth.



"A mouse stealing grapes," where the mouse represents "zi" (the first of the twelve earthly branches), symbolizes having many children and grandchildren.
Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces Nine Traditional Mosques and Three Gongbei Shrines in Qinghai (Part 3). Wall paintings in the kiln hall. It is useful for readers interested in Qinghai Mosques, Chinese Muslims, Muslim Heritage.

























Wall paintings in the kiln hall.

















Mihrab niche





















Seal script mural













8. Su Zhi Mosque

Suzhi Mosque in Xunhua County was first built in 1460 (the fourth year of the Tianshun reign of the Ming Dynasty) and expanded during the Qing Dynasty; it is the Haizi Mosque for the Salar people of the Suzhi area and is currently a cultural relic protection unit of Qinghai Province.



















9. Ahetan Mosque

Although Ahetan Mosque in Hualong County is located north of the Yellow River in Hualong County, it is still a Salar mosque and, like Suzhi Mosque, belongs to the Suzhi Gong of the Salar Eight Gongs.

The mosque's three-bay, four-pillar, three-story hip-roof gate tower is 9 meters high, with the Five Pillars of Islam—Shahada, Salah, Zakat, Sawm, and Hajj—carved in the center, topped by a triangular arrangement of dougong brackets with nine steps and four cantilevered arms.







The brick-carved screen wall outside the gate tower.





(Optional) Image description

Delete



The 18-meter-high minaret has a brick base and a wooden pavilion on the upper level.















In the main hall of the mosque, we were warmly welcomed by the Imam.



















Xia, Gongbei

1. Shangmajia Gongbei in Bazang Valley

Shangmajia Shang Gongbei is located on the summit of Woniu Mountain in Bazanggou, Ping'an District, Haidong City, so it is also called Woniu Mountain Gongbei; it is the tomb of Ma Diangong (1643-1715) of the Hufeiye Xianmen Menhuan.

Ma Diangong is known as Ma Ahong Taiye and is a local from Shangma Village in Bazanggou. He was eager to learn from a young age, entering the Xining Dongguan Mosque at 7 to study, and at 24, he was appointed as the Imam of the Xining Beiguan Mosque after completing his religious training. During his time at the Beiguan Mosque, he was entrusted by Huazhe Abdullahi and Apak Khoja to teach the scriptures to Xian Meizhen (Zhuzi Taiye). After Xian Meizhen founded the Xianmen Menhuan, Ma Diangong became his Naib (deputy). Before Xian Meizhen returned to Allah, because his eldest son Xian Huazhe was still young, he entrusted him to Ma Diangong and asked him to preside over religious affairs.

During the reign of Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty, the third-generation Sheikh Xian Chengde (Grandfather Chuanli) built the Gongbei for Ma Diangong; it was destroyed in 1867 and rebuilt in the early years of the Guangxu reign under the leadership of the fourth master, Grandfather Xian Linqing.

Today, the Gongbei preserves the two-courtyard layout from the Guangxu era very well and has been designated as a cultural relic protection unit of Qinghai Province.

Pushing open the gate of the Gongbei, it feels as if you could step right into the Qing Dynasty; it has a very special atmosphere. The interior has not been over-restored at all, allowing you to appreciate the exquisite Qing Dynasty brick and wood carvings, and the elder guarding the Gongbei is also very warm and friendly. Although the entire Gongbei is built on a hilltop, it does not have the helmet-roofed tomb pavilion typical of renovated Gongbeis, but is instead a traditional courtyard, which gives it a unique charm.



The mountain opposite









The screen wall outside the gate



Main gate





Looking at the main gate from inside



As soon as you enter the courtyard



The side rooms on both sides







Second gate











Mausoleum







2. Shangmazhuang Gongbei in Bazanggou

The Xia-Gongbei of Shangmazhuang in Bazanggou, Ping'an District, Haidong City, is the Gongbei of Xian Chengde (known as Chuanli Taiye), the third-generation Sheikh of the Xianmen Menhuan of the Khufiyya order. Xian Chengde built this Gongbei during the Jiaqing reign, and shortly after its completion in 1812, Xian Chengde returned to Allah, and the followers buried him here. In 1895, the fifth-generation Sheikh of the Xianmen, Xian Linyuan, returned to Allah and was also buried in the Xia-Gongbei.

Like the Upper Gongbei, the Lower Gongbei is a cultural relic protection unit of Qinghai Province, and it also consists of two courtyards, one in front and one behind, but it is larger in scale than the Upper Gongbei. The front courtyard has been destroyed and only the main gate remains, but the back courtyard is very well preserved and is a masterpiece of Qing Dynasty brick carving art.



The front courtyard gate; after entering, you can see the ceremonial gate of the back courtyard. The ceremonial gate features brick-carved dougong, with the Tasmiya carved in the center and various flowers below it.







The screen walls on both sides are carved with numerous hydrangea petals, each with a unique shape. The center is carved with a 'Joyful News of Early Spring' pattern, surrounded by four bats. The Sumeru pedestal is carved with the Eight Immortals' emblems, as well as patterns of pomegranates, finger citrons, peonies, and lotus flowers.









The brick carvings of pomegranates, peonies, the Eight Immortals' emblems, and hydrangea petals on the screen wall of the ceremonial gate. This hydrangea petal design is exactly the same as the one on the screen wall of the famous Hongshuiquan Mosque in Haidong.













The north wall screen has brick-carved dougong brackets at the top and a gabled roof. The upper part of the central screen is carved with the four Chinese characters 'Can Xia Bi Luo', with Arabic calligraphy in the center, Arabic couplets on both sides, and brick carvings of carp leaping over the dragon gate at the bottom of the couplets. The centers of the side screens feature the Chinese character 'Shou' in seal script, along with the couplets: 'Riding the phoenix to fly to the pure land, transforming into a crane to return to the pure palace.' "

















The main mausoleum is under renovation, and you can see the exquisite Arabic brick carvings and the removed roof tiles.



















Various brick carvings on the screen wall.

"Rabbit guarding cabbage," where "cabbage" sounds like "hundreds of wealth," and rabbits are considered good at guarding wealth.



"A mouse stealing grapes," where the mouse represents "zi" (the first of the twelve earthly branches), symbolizes having many children and grandchildren. Collapse Read »

Nine Traditional Mosques and Three Gongbei Shrines in Qinghai (Part 4)

Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces Nine Traditional Mosques and Three Gongbei Shrines in Qinghai (Part 4). A cat playing with a butterfly is a homophone for 'longevity'. It is useful for readers interested in Qinghai Mosques, Chinese Muslims, Muslim Heritage.





A cat playing with a butterfly is a homophone for 'longevity'.



3. Jiezi Gongbei

Hidden in the cemetery on the north side of the Jiezi Grand Mosque in Xunhua, the Jiezi Gong Gongbei is the only historical relic preserved in Jiezi Gong. Currently, only the lower brick section remains, featuring exquisite brick carvings and an inscription stating it was 're-erected in the first year of Xianfeng,' which corresponds to 1851.

It is very precious that Pastor Carter Holton, who was preaching in Xunhua in the 1930s, took photos of the well-preserved Jiezi Gongbei over 80 years ago.































Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces Nine Traditional Mosques and Three Gongbei Shrines in Qinghai (Part 4). A cat playing with a butterfly is a homophone for 'longevity'. It is useful for readers interested in Qinghai Mosques, Chinese Muslims, Muslim Heritage.





A cat playing with a butterfly is a homophone for 'longevity'.



3. Jiezi Gongbei

Hidden in the cemetery on the north side of the Jiezi Grand Mosque in Xunhua, the Jiezi Gong Gongbei is the only historical relic preserved in Jiezi Gong. Currently, only the lower brick section remains, featuring exquisite brick carvings and an inscription stating it was 're-erected in the first year of Xianfeng,' which corresponds to 1851.

It is very precious that Pastor Carter Holton, who was preaching in Xunhua in the 1930s, took photos of the well-preserved Jiezi Gongbei over 80 years ago.































Collapse Read »

Twenty Traditional Mosques in Dali (Part 1)

Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces Twenty Traditional Mosques in Dali (Part 1). I traveled to Dali twice, in July 2017 and August 2020, and visited 20 traditional mosques there. It is useful for readers interested in Dali Mosques, Chinese Muslims, Muslim Travel.

I traveled to Dali twice, in July 2017 and August 2020, and visited 20 traditional mosques there. The mosques in Dali are very distinctive, strongly influenced by the traditional architectural arts of the local Bai and Han ethnic groups. It is commendable that although they underwent large-scale reconstruction in the 1980s and 1990s, the new mosques still follow the traditional architectural style, only with an increased scale. In particular, the more than twenty Hui villages around Yongjian Town in Weishan County preserve what I believe to be the densest concentration of traditional mosque architecture in Yunnan, and it is worth a visit for anyone interested in traditional mosque architectural art.

1. Weishan County

1. Dingjiachang Mosque

2. Xiaowumaolin Mosque

3. Dawumao Mosque

4. Baisha Village Mosque

5. Xiaoweigeng Mosque

6. Yanqichang Mosque

7. Daweigeng Mosque

8. Xishulong Mosque

9. Qingmenkou Mosque: 1906

10. Huihui Mosque: 1944

11. Hedi Street Mosque

12. Maminchang Ma Family Mosque

13. Mami Chang Mi Family Mosque

14. Shenhe Village Mosque: 1946

15. Dianzhong Huiying Mosque

16. Donglianhua Mosque: 1921, 87 years

2. Dali City

1. Keli Village Mosque: 1908

3. Eryuan County

1. Sanmei Mosque: 1908

2. Jiming Mosque

3. Shipang Mosque

1. Weishan County

1. Dingjiachang Mosque

The Dingjiachang Mosque in Weishan County was rebuilt in 1995.



















2. Xiaowumaolin Mosque

The main prayer hall was rebuilt in 1976, and the minaret was built in 1989.













3. Dawumao Mosque

The minaret was built in 1988 and is a very typical example of Dali traditional style. This building is a masterpiece by the carpenter Ma Shaowu from Xiaowumaolin, who was a famous mosque architect in the Weishan area.













The main hall was rebuilt in 1982, and the mihrab inside is traditional and beautiful.















4. Baisha Village Mosque

The main prayer hall was rebuilt in 1987, and the minaret was built in 1993.



















5. Xiaoweigeng Mosque

The minaret of Xiaoweigeng. Many minarets were locked during this trip, but I was lucky enough to climb this one.



















The main hall was rebuilt in 1990, and the Weishan-style traditional Yunnan Arabic calligraphy on the mihrab is very beautiful.











6. Yanqichang Mosque

The main prayer hall was rebuilt in 2014. Since the 21st century, mosques built in Weishan County prefer to place the main prayer hall on the second floor.











7. Daweigeng Mosque

The main hall was rebuilt in 1990, and the minaret was first built in 1944. The builder of the main hall was Master Luo Jiajing from Xiatian'er Mountain in Weishan County.



















8. Xishulong Mosque

The main hall was rebuilt in 1990.

















9. Qingmenkou Mosque: 1906

Because of its relatively remote location, the minaret built in 1906 has been preserved to this day, which is very rare.













The main hall was rebuilt in 1983, and the pears in the mosque are delicious.



















10. Huihui Mosque: 1944

The front part of the main hall is a reinforced concrete structure built in 1993, while the back part is a wooden structure built in 1944; therefore, it looks like a new mosque from the front and an old mosque from the back.

There is an interesting story about the Huihui Deng Mosque. In the 1960s, when the Workers' Propaganda Team moved into Huihui Deng, the local people wrote a slogan on the mosque wall in the popular language of the time: 'Whoever dares to oppose M-Z-X's ethnic policy will have their dog head smashed.' The Workers' Propaganda Team was very annoyed, but they could not openly oppose it, so they had to write a quote from M-Z-D next to the slogan: 'The national question is, in essence, a question of class struggle.'















11. Hedi Street Mosque

The current mosque is newly built, but the mihrab features traditional Yunnan-style Arabic calligraphy in the Weishan style.







12. Maminchang Ma Family Mosque

The main prayer hall was rebuilt in 1996, and the minaret was rebuilt in 1991.



















13. Mami Chang Mi Family Mosque

The mosque is on a hillside, overlooking the surrounding scenery.

















14. Shenhe Village Mosque: 1946

The main prayer hall was rebuilt in 1995, and the minaret was built in 1946.











15. Dianzhong Huiying Mosque

The main prayer hall was rebuilt in 1995, and the minaret was built in 1990.
Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces Twenty Traditional Mosques in Dali (Part 1). I traveled to Dali twice, in July 2017 and August 2020, and visited 20 traditional mosques there. It is useful for readers interested in Dali Mosques, Chinese Muslims, Muslim Travel.

I traveled to Dali twice, in July 2017 and August 2020, and visited 20 traditional mosques there. The mosques in Dali are very distinctive, strongly influenced by the traditional architectural arts of the local Bai and Han ethnic groups. It is commendable that although they underwent large-scale reconstruction in the 1980s and 1990s, the new mosques still follow the traditional architectural style, only with an increased scale. In particular, the more than twenty Hui villages around Yongjian Town in Weishan County preserve what I believe to be the densest concentration of traditional mosque architecture in Yunnan, and it is worth a visit for anyone interested in traditional mosque architectural art.

1. Weishan County

1. Dingjiachang Mosque

2. Xiaowumaolin Mosque

3. Dawumao Mosque

4. Baisha Village Mosque

5. Xiaoweigeng Mosque

6. Yanqichang Mosque

7. Daweigeng Mosque

8. Xishulong Mosque

9. Qingmenkou Mosque: 1906

10. Huihui Mosque: 1944

11. Hedi Street Mosque

12. Maminchang Ma Family Mosque

13. Mami Chang Mi Family Mosque

14. Shenhe Village Mosque: 1946

15. Dianzhong Huiying Mosque

16. Donglianhua Mosque: 1921, 87 years

2. Dali City

1. Keli Village Mosque: 1908

3. Eryuan County

1. Sanmei Mosque: 1908

2. Jiming Mosque

3. Shipang Mosque

1. Weishan County

1. Dingjiachang Mosque

The Dingjiachang Mosque in Weishan County was rebuilt in 1995.



















2. Xiaowumaolin Mosque

The main prayer hall was rebuilt in 1976, and the minaret was built in 1989.













3. Dawumao Mosque

The minaret was built in 1988 and is a very typical example of Dali traditional style. This building is a masterpiece by the carpenter Ma Shaowu from Xiaowumaolin, who was a famous mosque architect in the Weishan area.













The main hall was rebuilt in 1982, and the mihrab inside is traditional and beautiful.















4. Baisha Village Mosque

The main prayer hall was rebuilt in 1987, and the minaret was built in 1993.



















5. Xiaoweigeng Mosque

The minaret of Xiaoweigeng. Many minarets were locked during this trip, but I was lucky enough to climb this one.



















The main hall was rebuilt in 1990, and the Weishan-style traditional Yunnan Arabic calligraphy on the mihrab is very beautiful.











6. Yanqichang Mosque

The main prayer hall was rebuilt in 2014. Since the 21st century, mosques built in Weishan County prefer to place the main prayer hall on the second floor.











7. Daweigeng Mosque

The main hall was rebuilt in 1990, and the minaret was first built in 1944. The builder of the main hall was Master Luo Jiajing from Xiatian'er Mountain in Weishan County.



















8. Xishulong Mosque

The main hall was rebuilt in 1990.

















9. Qingmenkou Mosque: 1906

Because of its relatively remote location, the minaret built in 1906 has been preserved to this day, which is very rare.













The main hall was rebuilt in 1983, and the pears in the mosque are delicious.



















10. Huihui Mosque: 1944

The front part of the main hall is a reinforced concrete structure built in 1993, while the back part is a wooden structure built in 1944; therefore, it looks like a new mosque from the front and an old mosque from the back.

There is an interesting story about the Huihui Deng Mosque. In the 1960s, when the Workers' Propaganda Team moved into Huihui Deng, the local people wrote a slogan on the mosque wall in the popular language of the time: 'Whoever dares to oppose M-Z-X's ethnic policy will have their dog head smashed.' The Workers' Propaganda Team was very annoyed, but they could not openly oppose it, so they had to write a quote from M-Z-D next to the slogan: 'The national question is, in essence, a question of class struggle.'















11. Hedi Street Mosque

The current mosque is newly built, but the mihrab features traditional Yunnan-style Arabic calligraphy in the Weishan style.







12. Maminchang Ma Family Mosque

The main prayer hall was rebuilt in 1996, and the minaret was rebuilt in 1991.



















13. Mami Chang Mi Family Mosque

The mosque is on a hillside, overlooking the surrounding scenery.

















14. Shenhe Village Mosque: 1946

The main prayer hall was rebuilt in 1995, and the minaret was built in 1946.











15. Dianzhong Huiying Mosque

The main prayer hall was rebuilt in 1995, and the minaret was built in 1990. Collapse Read »

Twenty Traditional Mosques in Dali (Part 2)

Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces Twenty Traditional Mosques in Dali (Part 2). 16. Donglianhua Mosque: 1921. It is useful for readers interested in Dali Mosques, Chinese Muslims, Muslim Travel.



















16. Donglianhua Mosque: 1921

Donglianhua Mosque was first built during the Qing Dynasty and was expanded twice in 1921 and 1987. From east to west, the mosque consists of the main gate, the minaret, and the prayer hall, with the minaret dividing the courtyard into two parts.

The minaret was raised to four stories in 1987, with a five-five-three-one structure; the first, second, and third floors are classrooms for holiday study groups, and the fourth floor is the place for calling the adhan.











The main hall was expanded into a five-by-seven bay structure in 1921, and in 1987, it was further expanded into a nine-by-eleven bay structure. The mihrab features traditional Arabic calligraphy in the distinctive Yunnan style.













Main gate



2. Dali City

1. Keli Village Mosque: 1908

The main hall of the Keli Village Mosque in Xizhou Town was rebuilt in 1908, with a significant portion of the funding coming from overseas Chinese in Myanmar. Keli Village Mosque is a famous 'hometown of overseas Chinese'; historically, it had powerful horse caravans that traveled throughout Yunnan province to places like Kunming, Simao, and Zhongdian, and connected southward to cities in Myanmar such as Mandalay, Mawlamyine, and Lashio. Since the late Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China era, hundreds of households from Keli Village have migrated to Myanmar, and the Chinese mosque in Yangon's Chinatown has often been led by imams from Keli Village.















The minaret and side rooms were rebuilt in 1926, with funding provided not only by local community members and overseas Chinese in Myanmar, but also by surrounding Bai villagers and various merchants. Back then, the north side room was where Ma Yin'an and his son Ma Xin taught Islamic studies, training a group of Imams for western Yunnan and even the Tibetan region. The south side room hired Bai intellectual Yang Handing to teach Chinese studies. Today, the minaret and side rooms are still used as classrooms for study groups.















The main gate of the mosque can be said to be a representative of the traditional Dali style of mosque architecture.













3. Eryuan County

1. Sanmei Mosque: 1908

The three mosques on the Dengchuan Basin were built in 1908. The Hui people here speak the Bai language and wear Bai clothing, and their architectural style is also very similar to that of the Bai people, so they are called "Bai Hui" by the outside world.



















2. Jiming Mosque

The two neighborhoods where the Jiming Mosque and Shipang Mosque are located on the Dengchuan Basin are the areas with the highest concentration of the so-called "Bai Hui" people. Jiming Mosque was built in 1894, and the current minaret was built in 1992. When I visited, it was undergoing renovations.









3. Shipang Mosque

The Sepang Mosque was built in 1896, and the minaret was built in 1920.









Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces Twenty Traditional Mosques in Dali (Part 2). 16. Donglianhua Mosque: 1921. It is useful for readers interested in Dali Mosques, Chinese Muslims, Muslim Travel.



















16. Donglianhua Mosque: 1921

Donglianhua Mosque was first built during the Qing Dynasty and was expanded twice in 1921 and 1987. From east to west, the mosque consists of the main gate, the minaret, and the prayer hall, with the minaret dividing the courtyard into two parts.

The minaret was raised to four stories in 1987, with a five-five-three-one structure; the first, second, and third floors are classrooms for holiday study groups, and the fourth floor is the place for calling the adhan.











The main hall was expanded into a five-by-seven bay structure in 1921, and in 1987, it was further expanded into a nine-by-eleven bay structure. The mihrab features traditional Arabic calligraphy in the distinctive Yunnan style.













Main gate



2. Dali City

1. Keli Village Mosque: 1908

The main hall of the Keli Village Mosque in Xizhou Town was rebuilt in 1908, with a significant portion of the funding coming from overseas Chinese in Myanmar. Keli Village Mosque is a famous 'hometown of overseas Chinese'; historically, it had powerful horse caravans that traveled throughout Yunnan province to places like Kunming, Simao, and Zhongdian, and connected southward to cities in Myanmar such as Mandalay, Mawlamyine, and Lashio. Since the late Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China era, hundreds of households from Keli Village have migrated to Myanmar, and the Chinese mosque in Yangon's Chinatown has often been led by imams from Keli Village.















The minaret and side rooms were rebuilt in 1926, with funding provided not only by local community members and overseas Chinese in Myanmar, but also by surrounding Bai villagers and various merchants. Back then, the north side room was where Ma Yin'an and his son Ma Xin taught Islamic studies, training a group of Imams for western Yunnan and even the Tibetan region. The south side room hired Bai intellectual Yang Handing to teach Chinese studies. Today, the minaret and side rooms are still used as classrooms for study groups.















The main gate of the mosque can be said to be a representative of the traditional Dali style of mosque architecture.













3. Eryuan County

1. Sanmei Mosque: 1908

The three mosques on the Dengchuan Basin were built in 1908. The Hui people here speak the Bai language and wear Bai clothing, and their architectural style is also very similar to that of the Bai people, so they are called "Bai Hui" by the outside world.



















2. Jiming Mosque

The two neighborhoods where the Jiming Mosque and Shipang Mosque are located on the Dengchuan Basin are the areas with the highest concentration of the so-called "Bai Hui" people. Jiming Mosque was built in 1894, and the current minaret was built in 1992. When I visited, it was undergoing renovations.









3. Shipang Mosque

The Sepang Mosque was built in 1896, and the minaret was built in 1920.









Collapse Read »

Demak, the Earliest Sultanate in Java

Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces Demak, the Earliest Sultanate in Java. Demak is now a small town a one-hour drive from Semarang, the capital of Central Java province in Indonesia, but in the 15th and 16th centuries, it was the most important city on the north coast of Java. It is useful for readers interested in Demak Sultanate, Java Islam, Muslim Heritage.

Demak is now a small town a one-hour drive from Semarang, the capital of Central Java province in Indonesia, but in the 15th and 16th centuries, it was the most important city on the north coast of Java. The Demak Sultanate overthrew the powerful Majapahit Kingdom in the early 16th century and became an important trading port on Java at that time. Today, the most important early mosque and the tombs of the sultans of Java are still preserved here.

On the morning of May 3, 2019, after having breakfast at the hotel in Semarang, I used the Grab app on my phone to call a car directly to the Great Mosque of Demak. The one-hour ride cost 50 RMB, and the distance was about the same as from the Second Ring Road in Beijing to Tongzhou.

The rise and fall of the Sultanate of Demak

Although the area around Demak today is surrounded by rice fields, it was once a busy port. Demak was once located at the mouth of a strait that separated Java from the island of Muria; this strait disappeared in 1657, after which Muria and Java became one island. Between the 15th and 17th centuries, this strait was an important shipping route along the north coast of Java to the Spice Islands, and it connected to the Serang River, which reached deep into the rice-producing regions of Java. By importing spices from the Spice Islands and exporting rice to the Malacca Sultanate, Demak became a powerful trading port on Java.



Demak in the 15th and 16th centuries

1. Late 15th century: Independent from the Majapahit Kingdom

Since the 15th century, with the decline of the Hindu/Buddhist Majapahit Kingdom and the rise of the Islamic Malacca Sultanate, many Muslim merchants from Arabia and India chose to settle on the north coast of Java.

In 1468, the Majapahit Kingdom split during a power struggle, and Prince Kertabhumi became King Brawijaya V (reigned 1468-1478). King Brawijaya V chose to unite with Muslim merchants on the north coast of Java, granting them trading rights on the north coast of Java. This policy boosted the financial strength of the Majapahit Kingdom, but it laid the groundwork for conflict between Buddhists and Muslims in the country.

In 1475, King Brawijaya V sent his son, Raden Patah, to rule the port of Demak. Raden Patah studied under Sunan Ampel, one of the 'Wali Songo' (nine saints) of Javanese Islam, and was a devout Muslim. This year is considered the founding year of the Demak Sultanate, although Raden Patah did not call himself Sultan at that time.

In 1478, the predominantly Buddhist Majapahit army besieged the palace of King Brawijaya V. The Muslim army of Demak, led by Sunan Ngudung, went to provide reinforcements, but the king had already been killed before they arrived. After the king's death, Raden Patah declared himself the Sultan of Demak. As the legitimate son of the king, Raden Patah led the Muslim army in a 20-year war against the Majapahit Kingdom, which lasted until a temporary truce in 1498.

2. Early 16th century: Conquest of the Majapahit Kingdom

In 1511, the Malacca Sultanate was captured by the Portuguese, and the Majapahit Kingdom went to the port of Malacca to seek an alliance with the Portuguese. In order to protect the spice trade, Demak launched attacks against the Portuguese and the Majapahit. In 1513, Demak sent 100 ships to attack Malacca, but they were defeated by the Portuguese. Within the island of Java, Demak completely crushed the Majapahit Kingdom, and a large number of Majapahit royal family members, courtiers, craftsmen, and monks fled to Bali.

Raden Patah passed away in 1518, and his brother-in-law Pati Unus became the second Sultan of Demak. In 1521, Pati Unus led 375 ships to launch another attack on Malacca, but he was defeated by the Portuguese again and lost his life in the process.

In 1522, Raden Trenggana, the brother-in-law of Pati Unus, was crowned Sultan by the Javanese Sufi master Sunan Gunungjati. Under the rule of Sultan Trenggana, the Demak Sultanate expanded rapidly across Java, and he is also known as the most powerful ruler of Demak.

In 1522, in order to control the pepper trade, the Portuguese chose to form an alliance with the Hindu Sunda Kingdom in western Java. The Demak Sultanate formed an alliance with the Cirebon Sultanate, another Muslim state in central Java, to oppose the Portuguese-Sunda alliance. Because the Portuguese did not send troops to assist the Sunda Kingdom in time, the joint Demak-Cirebon forces seized the opportunity to capture the important Sunda Kingdom port of Sunda Kalapa and renamed it Jakarta. In 1527, the joint Demak-Cirebon forces captured another important seaport of the Sunda Kingdom, Banten, and the Cirebon Sultan Prince Hasanudin subsequently established the Banten Sultanate there.

In 1527, the Sultanate of Demak completely destroyed the once immensely powerful Majapahit Empire, razed the last capital of Majapahit to the ground, and brought a large amount of treasure back to Demak.

At its peak, the Demak Sultanate controlled all the trading ports on the north coast of Java and gained rule over the ports of Jambi and Palembang in eastern Sumatra, making it a powerful maritime state at that time.

3. Mid-16th century: Final fall of the kingdom

In 1548, Sultan Trenggana died in battle in East Java, and his son Sunan Mukmin succeeded him, but was immediately killed by his cousin Arya Penangsang. Arya Penangsang faced opposition from ministers due to his poor character and was eventually killed in 1568 by Kyai Gedhe Pamanahan, a subordinate sent by the minister Hadiwijaya, marking the end of the Demak Sultanate. Hadiwijaya moved all the wealth of the Demak Sultanate court and established the short-lived Pajang Kingdom.

As a hero who helped bring down the Demak Sultanate, Kyai Gedhe Pamanahan was granted a forest that would later be called Kotagede. He and his adopted son, Danang Sutawijaya, established the Mataram Sultanate in Kotagede, which became the most powerful Islamic state on the island of Java.



The four sultanates established on Java in the 15th and 16th centuries

Demak Great Mosque: 1479

The Great Mosque of Demak (Masjid Agung Demak) is said to have been built in 1479 by Raden Patah, the first Sultan of Demak, and Sunan Kalijaga, one of the 'Nine Saints' (Wali Songo) of Javanese Islam. Sunan Ampel, one of the 'Nine Saints', served as the imam of this mosque for a long time.





19th century



The 1920s and 1930s

The Great Mosque of Demak is a typical traditional Javanese mosque, with its main structure consisting of a prayer hall and a front porch. The pyramid-shaped multi-tiered roof of the prayer hall is called Tajug, which is very similar to the Hindu pagodas of Bali. This architectural structure originated from Indian and Chinese cultures and appeared before Islam entered Java; it is the result of the fusion of traditional Indonesian Islam and local culture. The decoration at the very top of the roof is called Mustoko or Memolo. The original Mustoko was made of clay, but it was replaced with metal during later restorations.



(Optional) Image description

Delete



The front porch, Serambi, is located in front of the main prayer hall and is connected to it. The front porch is mainly used for shade and shelter from the rain, and people also pray there during Jumu'ah prayers.



Inside the front porch is a Bedug drum used for the call to prayer, which is still used every Friday for Jumu'ah, during Ramadan, and on major holidays.



The walls of the mosque's main prayer hall are decorated with tiles that were specially ordered from Vietnam.



The mosque does not use walls for support, but is instead held up by four pillars connected to the highest roof. These four pillars are called Soko Guru, and each pillar is connected to the foundation by a stone base called Umpak; these bases prevent the wooden pillars from absorbing groundwater and also act as shock absorbers during earthquakes.



On the north side of the mihrab niche in the main prayer hall stands the minbar for sermons, which is in the style of a traditional Javanese carved wooden throne.





On the south side of the mihrab, there is a structure called Kholwat or Maksuroh, which is a place for the Imam and other important figures to pray, and the general public is not allowed to enter.



To the north of the mosque is a small museum displaying the original architectural components of the mosque.



A 19th-century style model of the mosque



The mosque's four main wooden pillars, Soko Guru, are said to have been made by four Javanese Islamic saints: Sunan Bonang, Sunan Gunungjati, Sunan Ampel, and Sunan Kalijaga.



The stone column bases, known as Umpak, that connect the wooden pillars were brought from the Majapahit Kingdom, because Demak was still a swampy area at the time and lacked stone.



The Bledeg Gate, made in 1466, is said to have been crafted from teak wood by Ki Ageng Selo.



The monster with its mouth open above is said to be a captured bolt of lightning, an image that may have originated from the Naga, the serpent deity in Hindu and Buddhist culture.



The 15th-century Bedug drum



A 15th-century Kentongan. The Kentongan is an ancient Indonesian communication tool, and legend has it that it was brought by Zheng He. The Kentongan is usually made of bamboo or teak wood with a hole in the middle. Tapping the Kentongan with different rhythms can represent different signals, serving the purpose of transmitting information over long distances.



Tomb of Raden Patah: 1518

The backyard of the Great Mosque of Demak contains the graves of Raden Patah, the founder of the Demak Sultanate, and the second sultan, Pati Unus.









The gate of the Sultan's tomb from 1710 is now on display in the Demak Great Mosque museum.



Leaving the Great Mosque of Demak, we headed to the shrine of Sunan Kalijaga in the southeast of the city.



Sunan Kalijaga Tomb: 1550

Sunan Kalijaga is one of the nine saints (Wali Songo) of Islam in Java, and he played a significant role in the spread of Islam across Java.

When Sunan Kalijaga was spreading Da'wah, he used local Javanese culture and art as a medium to gradually integrate Islam into Javanese traditions and customs, which played a key role in the formation of traditional Javanese Islamic culture.

When preaching, Sunan Kalijaga was adept at utilizing art forms such as wayang shadow puppetry, traditional gamelan music, and carving, and he focused on promoting the traditional Javanese Muslim attire Baju Takwa, the Sekaten festival, and the Grebeg Maulud procession.

Legend has it that Sunan Kalijaga lived to be 100 years old, passing away in 1550. During his lifetime, he witnessed the fall of the Majapahit Kingdom and the establishment of the Demak, Cirebon, and Banten Sultanates. He eventually passed away in Demak and was buried southeast of the city.

Today, the Sunan Kalijaga shrine has become one of the most important Islamic holy sites in Java, visited by hundreds and thousands of people every day.















I caught the Jumu'ah prayer at the Sunan Kalijaga Mosque and saw the scene of the call to prayer being made using the traditional Bedug drum. After the Jumu'ah prayer, everyone received a popsicle and a snack, and everyone ate them happily.















Next to the shrine of Sunan Kalijaga is a large bazaar, where many stalls are selling T-shirts and pictures printed with the image of the saint Sunan Kalijaga. I bought pictures of the "Nine Saints" of Javanese Islam and the saint Sunan Kalijaga. Saint Sunan Kalijaga is the only one among the "Nine Saints" who wears traditional Javanese clothing, which also reflects his characteristic of using traditional Javanese culture as a medium when preaching.









After leaving the shrine, I took a Grab to another city, Kudus. The driver who accepted the order was the brother I had just prayed Jumu'ah with; he was very excited to take a selfie with me, and his mother was in the passenger seat.

Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces Demak, the Earliest Sultanate in Java. Demak is now a small town a one-hour drive from Semarang, the capital of Central Java province in Indonesia, but in the 15th and 16th centuries, it was the most important city on the north coast of Java. It is useful for readers interested in Demak Sultanate, Java Islam, Muslim Heritage.

Demak is now a small town a one-hour drive from Semarang, the capital of Central Java province in Indonesia, but in the 15th and 16th centuries, it was the most important city on the north coast of Java. The Demak Sultanate overthrew the powerful Majapahit Kingdom in the early 16th century and became an important trading port on Java at that time. Today, the most important early mosque and the tombs of the sultans of Java are still preserved here.

On the morning of May 3, 2019, after having breakfast at the hotel in Semarang, I used the Grab app on my phone to call a car directly to the Great Mosque of Demak. The one-hour ride cost 50 RMB, and the distance was about the same as from the Second Ring Road in Beijing to Tongzhou.

The rise and fall of the Sultanate of Demak

Although the area around Demak today is surrounded by rice fields, it was once a busy port. Demak was once located at the mouth of a strait that separated Java from the island of Muria; this strait disappeared in 1657, after which Muria and Java became one island. Between the 15th and 17th centuries, this strait was an important shipping route along the north coast of Java to the Spice Islands, and it connected to the Serang River, which reached deep into the rice-producing regions of Java. By importing spices from the Spice Islands and exporting rice to the Malacca Sultanate, Demak became a powerful trading port on Java.



Demak in the 15th and 16th centuries

1. Late 15th century: Independent from the Majapahit Kingdom

Since the 15th century, with the decline of the Hindu/Buddhist Majapahit Kingdom and the rise of the Islamic Malacca Sultanate, many Muslim merchants from Arabia and India chose to settle on the north coast of Java.

In 1468, the Majapahit Kingdom split during a power struggle, and Prince Kertabhumi became King Brawijaya V (reigned 1468-1478). King Brawijaya V chose to unite with Muslim merchants on the north coast of Java, granting them trading rights on the north coast of Java. This policy boosted the financial strength of the Majapahit Kingdom, but it laid the groundwork for conflict between Buddhists and Muslims in the country.

In 1475, King Brawijaya V sent his son, Raden Patah, to rule the port of Demak. Raden Patah studied under Sunan Ampel, one of the 'Wali Songo' (nine saints) of Javanese Islam, and was a devout Muslim. This year is considered the founding year of the Demak Sultanate, although Raden Patah did not call himself Sultan at that time.

In 1478, the predominantly Buddhist Majapahit army besieged the palace of King Brawijaya V. The Muslim army of Demak, led by Sunan Ngudung, went to provide reinforcements, but the king had already been killed before they arrived. After the king's death, Raden Patah declared himself the Sultan of Demak. As the legitimate son of the king, Raden Patah led the Muslim army in a 20-year war against the Majapahit Kingdom, which lasted until a temporary truce in 1498.

2. Early 16th century: Conquest of the Majapahit Kingdom

In 1511, the Malacca Sultanate was captured by the Portuguese, and the Majapahit Kingdom went to the port of Malacca to seek an alliance with the Portuguese. In order to protect the spice trade, Demak launched attacks against the Portuguese and the Majapahit. In 1513, Demak sent 100 ships to attack Malacca, but they were defeated by the Portuguese. Within the island of Java, Demak completely crushed the Majapahit Kingdom, and a large number of Majapahit royal family members, courtiers, craftsmen, and monks fled to Bali.

Raden Patah passed away in 1518, and his brother-in-law Pati Unus became the second Sultan of Demak. In 1521, Pati Unus led 375 ships to launch another attack on Malacca, but he was defeated by the Portuguese again and lost his life in the process.

In 1522, Raden Trenggana, the brother-in-law of Pati Unus, was crowned Sultan by the Javanese Sufi master Sunan Gunungjati. Under the rule of Sultan Trenggana, the Demak Sultanate expanded rapidly across Java, and he is also known as the most powerful ruler of Demak.

In 1522, in order to control the pepper trade, the Portuguese chose to form an alliance with the Hindu Sunda Kingdom in western Java. The Demak Sultanate formed an alliance with the Cirebon Sultanate, another Muslim state in central Java, to oppose the Portuguese-Sunda alliance. Because the Portuguese did not send troops to assist the Sunda Kingdom in time, the joint Demak-Cirebon forces seized the opportunity to capture the important Sunda Kingdom port of Sunda Kalapa and renamed it Jakarta. In 1527, the joint Demak-Cirebon forces captured another important seaport of the Sunda Kingdom, Banten, and the Cirebon Sultan Prince Hasanudin subsequently established the Banten Sultanate there.

In 1527, the Sultanate of Demak completely destroyed the once immensely powerful Majapahit Empire, razed the last capital of Majapahit to the ground, and brought a large amount of treasure back to Demak.

At its peak, the Demak Sultanate controlled all the trading ports on the north coast of Java and gained rule over the ports of Jambi and Palembang in eastern Sumatra, making it a powerful maritime state at that time.

3. Mid-16th century: Final fall of the kingdom

In 1548, Sultan Trenggana died in battle in East Java, and his son Sunan Mukmin succeeded him, but was immediately killed by his cousin Arya Penangsang. Arya Penangsang faced opposition from ministers due to his poor character and was eventually killed in 1568 by Kyai Gedhe Pamanahan, a subordinate sent by the minister Hadiwijaya, marking the end of the Demak Sultanate. Hadiwijaya moved all the wealth of the Demak Sultanate court and established the short-lived Pajang Kingdom.

As a hero who helped bring down the Demak Sultanate, Kyai Gedhe Pamanahan was granted a forest that would later be called Kotagede. He and his adopted son, Danang Sutawijaya, established the Mataram Sultanate in Kotagede, which became the most powerful Islamic state on the island of Java.



The four sultanates established on Java in the 15th and 16th centuries

Demak Great Mosque: 1479

The Great Mosque of Demak (Masjid Agung Demak) is said to have been built in 1479 by Raden Patah, the first Sultan of Demak, and Sunan Kalijaga, one of the 'Nine Saints' (Wali Songo) of Javanese Islam. Sunan Ampel, one of the 'Nine Saints', served as the imam of this mosque for a long time.





19th century



The 1920s and 1930s

The Great Mosque of Demak is a typical traditional Javanese mosque, with its main structure consisting of a prayer hall and a front porch. The pyramid-shaped multi-tiered roof of the prayer hall is called Tajug, which is very similar to the Hindu pagodas of Bali. This architectural structure originated from Indian and Chinese cultures and appeared before Islam entered Java; it is the result of the fusion of traditional Indonesian Islam and local culture. The decoration at the very top of the roof is called Mustoko or Memolo. The original Mustoko was made of clay, but it was replaced with metal during later restorations.



(Optional) Image description

Delete



The front porch, Serambi, is located in front of the main prayer hall and is connected to it. The front porch is mainly used for shade and shelter from the rain, and people also pray there during Jumu'ah prayers.



Inside the front porch is a Bedug drum used for the call to prayer, which is still used every Friday for Jumu'ah, during Ramadan, and on major holidays.



The walls of the mosque's main prayer hall are decorated with tiles that were specially ordered from Vietnam.



The mosque does not use walls for support, but is instead held up by four pillars connected to the highest roof. These four pillars are called Soko Guru, and each pillar is connected to the foundation by a stone base called Umpak; these bases prevent the wooden pillars from absorbing groundwater and also act as shock absorbers during earthquakes.



On the north side of the mihrab niche in the main prayer hall stands the minbar for sermons, which is in the style of a traditional Javanese carved wooden throne.





On the south side of the mihrab, there is a structure called Kholwat or Maksuroh, which is a place for the Imam and other important figures to pray, and the general public is not allowed to enter.



To the north of the mosque is a small museum displaying the original architectural components of the mosque.



A 19th-century style model of the mosque



The mosque's four main wooden pillars, Soko Guru, are said to have been made by four Javanese Islamic saints: Sunan Bonang, Sunan Gunungjati, Sunan Ampel, and Sunan Kalijaga.



The stone column bases, known as Umpak, that connect the wooden pillars were brought from the Majapahit Kingdom, because Demak was still a swampy area at the time and lacked stone.



The Bledeg Gate, made in 1466, is said to have been crafted from teak wood by Ki Ageng Selo.



The monster with its mouth open above is said to be a captured bolt of lightning, an image that may have originated from the Naga, the serpent deity in Hindu and Buddhist culture.



The 15th-century Bedug drum



A 15th-century Kentongan. The Kentongan is an ancient Indonesian communication tool, and legend has it that it was brought by Zheng He. The Kentongan is usually made of bamboo or teak wood with a hole in the middle. Tapping the Kentongan with different rhythms can represent different signals, serving the purpose of transmitting information over long distances.



Tomb of Raden Patah: 1518

The backyard of the Great Mosque of Demak contains the graves of Raden Patah, the founder of the Demak Sultanate, and the second sultan, Pati Unus.









The gate of the Sultan's tomb from 1710 is now on display in the Demak Great Mosque museum.



Leaving the Great Mosque of Demak, we headed to the shrine of Sunan Kalijaga in the southeast of the city.



Sunan Kalijaga Tomb: 1550

Sunan Kalijaga is one of the nine saints (Wali Songo) of Islam in Java, and he played a significant role in the spread of Islam across Java.

When Sunan Kalijaga was spreading Da'wah, he used local Javanese culture and art as a medium to gradually integrate Islam into Javanese traditions and customs, which played a key role in the formation of traditional Javanese Islamic culture.

When preaching, Sunan Kalijaga was adept at utilizing art forms such as wayang shadow puppetry, traditional gamelan music, and carving, and he focused on promoting the traditional Javanese Muslim attire Baju Takwa, the Sekaten festival, and the Grebeg Maulud procession.

Legend has it that Sunan Kalijaga lived to be 100 years old, passing away in 1550. During his lifetime, he witnessed the fall of the Majapahit Kingdom and the establishment of the Demak, Cirebon, and Banten Sultanates. He eventually passed away in Demak and was buried southeast of the city.

Today, the Sunan Kalijaga shrine has become one of the most important Islamic holy sites in Java, visited by hundreds and thousands of people every day.















I caught the Jumu'ah prayer at the Sunan Kalijaga Mosque and saw the scene of the call to prayer being made using the traditional Bedug drum. After the Jumu'ah prayer, everyone received a popsicle and a snack, and everyone ate them happily.















Next to the shrine of Sunan Kalijaga is a large bazaar, where many stalls are selling T-shirts and pictures printed with the image of the saint Sunan Kalijaga. I bought pictures of the "Nine Saints" of Javanese Islam and the saint Sunan Kalijaga. Saint Sunan Kalijaga is the only one among the "Nine Saints" who wears traditional Javanese clothing, which also reflects his characteristic of using traditional Javanese culture as a medium when preaching.









After leaving the shrine, I took a Grab to another city, Kudus. The driver who accepted the order was the brother I had just prayed Jumu'ah with; he was very excited to take a selfie with me, and his mother was in the passenger seat.

Collapse Read »

Eating South Asian and Middle Eastern Food in Beijing (Part 2)

Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces Eating South Asian and Middle Eastern Food in Beijing (Part 2). On November 7, 2018, after work, I went to a Turkish kebab shop run by Azerbaijanis on the first floor of Sanlitun SOHO. It is useful for readers interested in Beijing Halal Food, Muslim Travel, Middle Eastern Food.









5. Azerbaijani/Turkish restaurant Doner & Kebab

On November 7, 2018, after work, I went to a Turkish kebab shop run by Azerbaijanis on the first floor of Sanlitun SOHO. I had Lahmacun, an Ottoman delicacy originating from the Levant, served with kebabs and lentil soup. They also had pide bread and classic Azerbaijani stuffed grape leaves. The shop had a picture of the Maiden Tower, a landmark in the Old City of Baku, Azerbaijan, located by the Caspian Sea, and Azerbaijani songs were playing on the TV. Besides the two young Azerbaijani men, there was also an auntie from Northeast China who speaks Russian. The young men were actively learning Chinese from her, and I hope their Chinese gets better and better!











6. Kavkaz restaurant

On August 2, 2019, I ate Caucasian salad, cheese khachapuri with honey, pan-fried trout, dolma, borscht, Russian chicken soup, and Ayran at the Caucasian restaurant Kavkaz on Ritan Shangjie.



















On April 14, 2019, I had garlic chicken, grilled lamb chops, meat pies, traditional Caucasian soup, traditional Caucasian salad, and steamed buns at the Caucasian restaurant Kavkaz near the North Gate of Ritan Park in the evening. Except for the thick bun skins, everything else was super delicious, especially the soup and the garlic chicken; it was so satisfying after eating.















On December 8, 2018, I went to the Caucasian restaurant Kavkaz on Ritan Shangjie in the evening and ordered lamb flatbread, garlic roasted chicken, lamb in a clay pot, stuffed grape leaves, and Ayran yogurt with fennel; everything was quite good!









7. Azerbaijani/Turkish restaurant Desert Rose

On February 17, 2021, we had lunch at Desert Rose on Ritan Shangjie; it is the most affordable among the several Turkish restaurants on Ritan Shangjie. Ten years ago, my childhood friend and I had Turkish food for the first time right here, and in the blink of an eye, ten years have passed and the place still hasn't changed.

There were 6 of us eating together this time, so we ordered one 4-person set meal and one 2-person set meal, which included lentil soup and chicken soup, Mediterranean salad, mixed grill, yogurt marinated chicken, assorted Pide, chicken Shawarma wrap, lamb shank pilaf, rice pudding, Ayran yogurt drink, Puf ekmek bread, and Baklava dessert; we also ordered Izmir meatballs and Lahmacun. Their Puf ekmek bread is so delicious! It was grilled to be extra fragrant, and it still tasted great even after bringing it home and letting it cool.



















3. South Asia

1. Pakistani restaurant ZAM ZAM

On April 4, 2020, I had a Tandoori mixed grill platter at the Pakistani restaurant ZAM ZAM near the East Gate of Tsinghua University. The platter included Haryali Tikka (mint chicken), lamb tikka, beef tikka, Malai Seekh Kabab, and fish tikka. The grilled meat was quite spicy, and it was especially refreshing when dipped in mint sauce. I also ordered chicken corn soup, chickpea Achari curry, and garlic naan, and drank my favorite freshly squeezed mint juice. When they have their buffet, the mint juice is the most popular item, and I can never stop drinking cup after cup. Their South Asian naan is also truly super delicious and especially crispy.

Currently they don't have a buffet, only a la carte; I hope to come back for the buffet in the future.



















On September 21, 2019, I had a buffet dinner at the Pakistani restaurant Zam Zam in Kaishi Plaza. The first plate was Biryani fried rice with chicken Tikka, fried fish, and the South Asian street food specialty, vegetable Pakora. The second plate consisted of naan with beef stew, chickpea sauce, mint sauce, and custard, a dessert of European origin. And their best drink is still the South Asian mint water; I can never get enough of it!















On June 23, 2019, I had the buffet at Zam Zam for dinner, it was very authentic! The Pakistani pulao, roasted chicken, and stew were all excellent, and that cheese and egg soup was also incredibly delicious. My favorite was their mint sauce with bread, it was so tasty.









2. Saduri restaurant in Kolkata, India

On December 22, 2020, I went to Saduri, an Indian Kolkata Muslim restaurant in Beiluoguxiang, in the evening. They were closed for 8 months this year, and the owner only returned to China from India in November; it really hasn't been easy for them.

We ordered Samosas, mixed grill, Goan fish curry, fried chicken legs, Chana Masala, Aloo Paratha, and Kabli Naan, as well as Shahi Kheer and carrot Halwa, and finally ordered almond and fig flavored Lassi.

Samosas were brought to South Asia from Persia by Central Asian Muslim merchants in the 13th and 14th centuries. The Delhi Sultanate scholar Amir Khusro wrote around 1300 that the princes and nobles of the Delhi Sultanate enjoyed 'samosas prepared with meat, ghee, and onions'.

Goan fish curry is made by cooking boneless fish marinated in a ginger-garlic paste with coconut milk and spices, then seasoned with coconut powder. Goa is an ancient city on the coast of the Arabian Sea that was under Portuguese rule for a long time; the Portuguese introduced many South American foods such as potatoes, tomatoes, guavas, cashews, and chili peppers to India through Goa. Goan cuisine is primarily based on seafood, with a preference for using chili peppers and coconut oil.

Aloo Paratha originated in the Punjab region and is made from unleavened dough mixed with mashed potatoes and spices, then cooked on a Tava griddle using butter or ghee.

Kheer is a pudding made from boiled milk, rice, and sugar, usually with added shredded dried coconut, cardamom, raisins, saffron, cashews, pistachios, and almonds.

Gajar ka halwa is made by grating carrots and drying them, then heating and stirring them with milk and sugar, adding raisins, pistachios, or other dried fruits, and finally cooking them with ghee. This sweet was brought to South Asia during the Mughal period, and "halwa" means "sweet" in Arabic. It is eaten during major Hindu and Islamic festivals in South Asia, such as Diwali, Holi, and Eid al-Fitr.



















On November 28, 2019, I ate Tandoori chicken, Masala lamb, green pea and mushroom curry, butter naan, Pudina Paratha, Masala chai, and Gajar ka halwa at Sadri, an Indian Kolkata Muslim restaurant in Beiluoguxiang. Their South Asian naan is truly super delicious; I will never get tired of eating it. This time I basically ate classic South Asian dishes; I have introduced Tandoori chicken and Masala lamb many times before.

Paratha comes from Sanskrit and has a history of thousands of years; it is one of the most classic unleavened breads in South Asia, made by first baking and then pan-frying. Paratha is thicker and firmer than another South Asian bread called Roti, because Paratha is layered with ghee, folded repeatedly, and then flattened.



















On March 13, 2019, I had beef Samosa at the Indian restaurant Saduli in Beiluoguxiang in the evening (the mint sauce was so delicious!). ), Masala lamb, Tandoori mushrooms, Iranian grilled fish, Aloo Paratha potato flatbread, vegetable soup, and masala chai.

Their restaurant is my favorite Indian place in Beijing. After this year's urban renovation project, I almost thought it had been demolished when I arrived, but later I found that only the part facing the hutong was torn down, and the area has become much smaller. I hope they can keep running so that I can always have delicious Indian food!















On June 23, 2018, I ate at Sadri, a restaurant run by Muslims from Kolkata, near Beiluoguxiang. The Iranian boneless grilled sea bass was incredibly tender, and I really liked the sweet coconut milk flavor of the shahi korma chicken curry. The most amazing thing was the naan; it was crispy fresh out of the oven and tasted even better than what I had in India. I have always liked Kheer, a dessert made with rice, fresh milk, and cream, and I finished with a cup of masala tea; overall, this place is really good.







3. Khan Baba Pakistani Restaurant (Sanlitun Branch)

On April 17, 2021, I had a Ramadan Iftar buffet at Khan Baba, and the atmosphere was really great. I ate mutton curry, chickpea curry, kebabs, roasted chicken, fried vegetables, Biryani, garlic naan, salad with mint and yogurt sauce, and pudding. There was quite a variety and it was all delicious, especially the naan dipped in curry, which was very satisfying! A reminder to all my fellow brothers and sisters (dostis) that you need to book in advance, otherwise there won't be any seats.



















On July 24, 2019, I had chicken and mushroom samosas, mutton Yakhni soup, chicken corn soup, fish masala, mutton handi, garlic naan, chana dal, and badami lassi for dinner at Khan Baba in Sanlitun.

The Samosa they made this time was a bit thick, but the chicken and mushroom flavor was actually quite good. The classic Indian Samosa is made by mixing vegetable oil, melted butter, warm water, salt, and wheat flour for the dough, then deep-frying it until golden brown. In the 13th or 14th century, Central Asian Muslim merchants brought the Samosa from Persia to South Asia, where it was favored by the Delhi Sultanate royalty and subsequently became popular across South Asia.

The mutton Yakhni soup has a lot of pepper and a very strong mutton flavor; it feels like it would be especially warming to drink in winter.

The fish in the Masaala fish stew is very tender. Masaala is a famous South Asian spice blend, with garlic, ginger, onion, chili, and tomato as the main ingredients.

Mutton Handi is my favorite; it is so satisfying to eat with naan. Mutton Handi is a popular style of curry in northern South Asia, made with many rich spices like cardamom, cinnamon, and cloves. The biggest difference from regular South Asian curry is that ginger is not used when making Handi; instead, garlic and onions are used.

The chickpea curry (Dall Chana) also has a very rich flavor, and it is quite interesting to eat chickpeas this way. In Sanskrit, 'Dal' means 'split,' and in South Asia, it refers to hulled legumes, including chickpeas, peas, and lentils, which can be eaten dry or with gravy.

The garlic naan is baked very fluffy, which suits my taste. The almond yogurt was blended in a mixer and tastes sweet.















Khan Baba Pakistani Restaurant (Wudaokou Branch)

On June 26, 2017, I had Khan Baba in Wudaokou for dinner, and the lamb Biryani was delicious! The chicken Achari Handi was also great, and while the grilled beef was not as good as Dardanelles, it is still a rare find in Wudaokou. There was also the famous snack, Samosa.









4. Indian Kitchen

On July 4, 2020, we had dinner at Indian Kitchen on Ritan Shangjie in the evening. It is a restaurant run by Hindus, but they provide entirely halal food, and the chef is from Chennai, a famous city on the east coast of South India. We ordered Mughlai fried rice, Paneer Tikka, Beef Kurma with coconut milk, Dosa with potato sauce and masala curry, Mango Lassi, pan-fried mackerel, and Masala Tea.

The Mughlai culinary culture of South Asia was formed by the fusion of Indian and Persian cultures during the Mughal period; it was strongly influenced by Turko-Persian cuisine in its early stages, and after taking shape, it in turn influenced the cuisine of Afghanistan, North India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh.

Learn some Indian food terms by following the menu at Indian Kitchen on Ritan Shangjie.

1. Madras is a spicy dish.

2. Kurma is a mild coconut milk curry.

3. Dopiaza means double onions, which is a type of onion curry.

4. Basmathi is Indian long-grain rice.

5. Naan is naan, which is an important tool for Indians when eating curry with their hands.

6. Roti is a type of flatbread, and it is also used to scoop up curry.

7. Dhal is lentils.

8. Cumin is a spicy spice.

9. A tandoor is a type of oven.



















5. Pakistani restaurant, Lahore Restaurant

On January 29, 2021, I ate mutton Biryani and stewed lamb trotters at the Pakistani restaurant Lahore Restaurant on Qingnian Road West; the lamb leg and trotters were stewed until tender and full of flavor! The lamb trotters melted in my mouth, and wrapping them in a flatbread was so satisfying.











On November 18, 2020, I went to the Pakistani restaurant Lahore Restaurant at Gome First City on Qingnian Road after work. It is the rebranded Tiffin, and the environment is much better than before. I ordered the Tandoori Chicken Biryani, which was half-price for the opening, and also ordered the Peshawar beef patties; the beef patties were quite flavorful. I plan to go back after work today to try the curry with naan.
Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces Eating South Asian and Middle Eastern Food in Beijing (Part 2). On November 7, 2018, after work, I went to a Turkish kebab shop run by Azerbaijanis on the first floor of Sanlitun SOHO. It is useful for readers interested in Beijing Halal Food, Muslim Travel, Middle Eastern Food.









5. Azerbaijani/Turkish restaurant Doner & Kebab

On November 7, 2018, after work, I went to a Turkish kebab shop run by Azerbaijanis on the first floor of Sanlitun SOHO. I had Lahmacun, an Ottoman delicacy originating from the Levant, served with kebabs and lentil soup. They also had pide bread and classic Azerbaijani stuffed grape leaves. The shop had a picture of the Maiden Tower, a landmark in the Old City of Baku, Azerbaijan, located by the Caspian Sea, and Azerbaijani songs were playing on the TV. Besides the two young Azerbaijani men, there was also an auntie from Northeast China who speaks Russian. The young men were actively learning Chinese from her, and I hope their Chinese gets better and better!











6. Kavkaz restaurant

On August 2, 2019, I ate Caucasian salad, cheese khachapuri with honey, pan-fried trout, dolma, borscht, Russian chicken soup, and Ayran at the Caucasian restaurant Kavkaz on Ritan Shangjie.



















On April 14, 2019, I had garlic chicken, grilled lamb chops, meat pies, traditional Caucasian soup, traditional Caucasian salad, and steamed buns at the Caucasian restaurant Kavkaz near the North Gate of Ritan Park in the evening. Except for the thick bun skins, everything else was super delicious, especially the soup and the garlic chicken; it was so satisfying after eating.















On December 8, 2018, I went to the Caucasian restaurant Kavkaz on Ritan Shangjie in the evening and ordered lamb flatbread, garlic roasted chicken, lamb in a clay pot, stuffed grape leaves, and Ayran yogurt with fennel; everything was quite good!









7. Azerbaijani/Turkish restaurant Desert Rose

On February 17, 2021, we had lunch at Desert Rose on Ritan Shangjie; it is the most affordable among the several Turkish restaurants on Ritan Shangjie. Ten years ago, my childhood friend and I had Turkish food for the first time right here, and in the blink of an eye, ten years have passed and the place still hasn't changed.

There were 6 of us eating together this time, so we ordered one 4-person set meal and one 2-person set meal, which included lentil soup and chicken soup, Mediterranean salad, mixed grill, yogurt marinated chicken, assorted Pide, chicken Shawarma wrap, lamb shank pilaf, rice pudding, Ayran yogurt drink, Puf ekmek bread, and Baklava dessert; we also ordered Izmir meatballs and Lahmacun. Their Puf ekmek bread is so delicious! It was grilled to be extra fragrant, and it still tasted great even after bringing it home and letting it cool.



















3. South Asia

1. Pakistani restaurant ZAM ZAM

On April 4, 2020, I had a Tandoori mixed grill platter at the Pakistani restaurant ZAM ZAM near the East Gate of Tsinghua University. The platter included Haryali Tikka (mint chicken), lamb tikka, beef tikka, Malai Seekh Kabab, and fish tikka. The grilled meat was quite spicy, and it was especially refreshing when dipped in mint sauce. I also ordered chicken corn soup, chickpea Achari curry, and garlic naan, and drank my favorite freshly squeezed mint juice. When they have their buffet, the mint juice is the most popular item, and I can never stop drinking cup after cup. Their South Asian naan is also truly super delicious and especially crispy.

Currently they don't have a buffet, only a la carte; I hope to come back for the buffet in the future.



















On September 21, 2019, I had a buffet dinner at the Pakistani restaurant Zam Zam in Kaishi Plaza. The first plate was Biryani fried rice with chicken Tikka, fried fish, and the South Asian street food specialty, vegetable Pakora. The second plate consisted of naan with beef stew, chickpea sauce, mint sauce, and custard, a dessert of European origin. And their best drink is still the South Asian mint water; I can never get enough of it!















On June 23, 2019, I had the buffet at Zam Zam for dinner, it was very authentic! The Pakistani pulao, roasted chicken, and stew were all excellent, and that cheese and egg soup was also incredibly delicious. My favorite was their mint sauce with bread, it was so tasty.









2. Saduri restaurant in Kolkata, India

On December 22, 2020, I went to Saduri, an Indian Kolkata Muslim restaurant in Beiluoguxiang, in the evening. They were closed for 8 months this year, and the owner only returned to China from India in November; it really hasn't been easy for them.

We ordered Samosas, mixed grill, Goan fish curry, fried chicken legs, Chana Masala, Aloo Paratha, and Kabli Naan, as well as Shahi Kheer and carrot Halwa, and finally ordered almond and fig flavored Lassi.

Samosas were brought to South Asia from Persia by Central Asian Muslim merchants in the 13th and 14th centuries. The Delhi Sultanate scholar Amir Khusro wrote around 1300 that the princes and nobles of the Delhi Sultanate enjoyed 'samosas prepared with meat, ghee, and onions'.

Goan fish curry is made by cooking boneless fish marinated in a ginger-garlic paste with coconut milk and spices, then seasoned with coconut powder. Goa is an ancient city on the coast of the Arabian Sea that was under Portuguese rule for a long time; the Portuguese introduced many South American foods such as potatoes, tomatoes, guavas, cashews, and chili peppers to India through Goa. Goan cuisine is primarily based on seafood, with a preference for using chili peppers and coconut oil.

Aloo Paratha originated in the Punjab region and is made from unleavened dough mixed with mashed potatoes and spices, then cooked on a Tava griddle using butter or ghee.

Kheer is a pudding made from boiled milk, rice, and sugar, usually with added shredded dried coconut, cardamom, raisins, saffron, cashews, pistachios, and almonds.

Gajar ka halwa is made by grating carrots and drying them, then heating and stirring them with milk and sugar, adding raisins, pistachios, or other dried fruits, and finally cooking them with ghee. This sweet was brought to South Asia during the Mughal period, and "halwa" means "sweet" in Arabic. It is eaten during major Hindu and Islamic festivals in South Asia, such as Diwali, Holi, and Eid al-Fitr.



















On November 28, 2019, I ate Tandoori chicken, Masala lamb, green pea and mushroom curry, butter naan, Pudina Paratha, Masala chai, and Gajar ka halwa at Sadri, an Indian Kolkata Muslim restaurant in Beiluoguxiang. Their South Asian naan is truly super delicious; I will never get tired of eating it. This time I basically ate classic South Asian dishes; I have introduced Tandoori chicken and Masala lamb many times before.

Paratha comes from Sanskrit and has a history of thousands of years; it is one of the most classic unleavened breads in South Asia, made by first baking and then pan-frying. Paratha is thicker and firmer than another South Asian bread called Roti, because Paratha is layered with ghee, folded repeatedly, and then flattened.



















On March 13, 2019, I had beef Samosa at the Indian restaurant Saduli in Beiluoguxiang in the evening (the mint sauce was so delicious!). ), Masala lamb, Tandoori mushrooms, Iranian grilled fish, Aloo Paratha potato flatbread, vegetable soup, and masala chai.

Their restaurant is my favorite Indian place in Beijing. After this year's urban renovation project, I almost thought it had been demolished when I arrived, but later I found that only the part facing the hutong was torn down, and the area has become much smaller. I hope they can keep running so that I can always have delicious Indian food!















On June 23, 2018, I ate at Sadri, a restaurant run by Muslims from Kolkata, near Beiluoguxiang. The Iranian boneless grilled sea bass was incredibly tender, and I really liked the sweet coconut milk flavor of the shahi korma chicken curry. The most amazing thing was the naan; it was crispy fresh out of the oven and tasted even better than what I had in India. I have always liked Kheer, a dessert made with rice, fresh milk, and cream, and I finished with a cup of masala tea; overall, this place is really good.







3. Khan Baba Pakistani Restaurant (Sanlitun Branch)

On April 17, 2021, I had a Ramadan Iftar buffet at Khan Baba, and the atmosphere was really great. I ate mutton curry, chickpea curry, kebabs, roasted chicken, fried vegetables, Biryani, garlic naan, salad with mint and yogurt sauce, and pudding. There was quite a variety and it was all delicious, especially the naan dipped in curry, which was very satisfying! A reminder to all my fellow brothers and sisters (dostis) that you need to book in advance, otherwise there won't be any seats.



















On July 24, 2019, I had chicken and mushroom samosas, mutton Yakhni soup, chicken corn soup, fish masala, mutton handi, garlic naan, chana dal, and badami lassi for dinner at Khan Baba in Sanlitun.

The Samosa they made this time was a bit thick, but the chicken and mushroom flavor was actually quite good. The classic Indian Samosa is made by mixing vegetable oil, melted butter, warm water, salt, and wheat flour for the dough, then deep-frying it until golden brown. In the 13th or 14th century, Central Asian Muslim merchants brought the Samosa from Persia to South Asia, where it was favored by the Delhi Sultanate royalty and subsequently became popular across South Asia.

The mutton Yakhni soup has a lot of pepper and a very strong mutton flavor; it feels like it would be especially warming to drink in winter.

The fish in the Masaala fish stew is very tender. Masaala is a famous South Asian spice blend, with garlic, ginger, onion, chili, and tomato as the main ingredients.

Mutton Handi is my favorite; it is so satisfying to eat with naan. Mutton Handi is a popular style of curry in northern South Asia, made with many rich spices like cardamom, cinnamon, and cloves. The biggest difference from regular South Asian curry is that ginger is not used when making Handi; instead, garlic and onions are used.

The chickpea curry (Dall Chana) also has a very rich flavor, and it is quite interesting to eat chickpeas this way. In Sanskrit, 'Dal' means 'split,' and in South Asia, it refers to hulled legumes, including chickpeas, peas, and lentils, which can be eaten dry or with gravy.

The garlic naan is baked very fluffy, which suits my taste. The almond yogurt was blended in a mixer and tastes sweet.















Khan Baba Pakistani Restaurant (Wudaokou Branch)

On June 26, 2017, I had Khan Baba in Wudaokou for dinner, and the lamb Biryani was delicious! The chicken Achari Handi was also great, and while the grilled beef was not as good as Dardanelles, it is still a rare find in Wudaokou. There was also the famous snack, Samosa.









4. Indian Kitchen

On July 4, 2020, we had dinner at Indian Kitchen on Ritan Shangjie in the evening. It is a restaurant run by Hindus, but they provide entirely halal food, and the chef is from Chennai, a famous city on the east coast of South India. We ordered Mughlai fried rice, Paneer Tikka, Beef Kurma with coconut milk, Dosa with potato sauce and masala curry, Mango Lassi, pan-fried mackerel, and Masala Tea.

The Mughlai culinary culture of South Asia was formed by the fusion of Indian and Persian cultures during the Mughal period; it was strongly influenced by Turko-Persian cuisine in its early stages, and after taking shape, it in turn influenced the cuisine of Afghanistan, North India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh.

Learn some Indian food terms by following the menu at Indian Kitchen on Ritan Shangjie.

1. Madras is a spicy dish.

2. Kurma is a mild coconut milk curry.

3. Dopiaza means double onions, which is a type of onion curry.

4. Basmathi is Indian long-grain rice.

5. Naan is naan, which is an important tool for Indians when eating curry with their hands.

6. Roti is a type of flatbread, and it is also used to scoop up curry.

7. Dhal is lentils.

8. Cumin is a spicy spice.

9. A tandoor is a type of oven.



















5. Pakistani restaurant, Lahore Restaurant

On January 29, 2021, I ate mutton Biryani and stewed lamb trotters at the Pakistani restaurant Lahore Restaurant on Qingnian Road West; the lamb leg and trotters were stewed until tender and full of flavor! The lamb trotters melted in my mouth, and wrapping them in a flatbread was so satisfying.











On November 18, 2020, I went to the Pakistani restaurant Lahore Restaurant at Gome First City on Qingnian Road after work. It is the rebranded Tiffin, and the environment is much better than before. I ordered the Tandoori Chicken Biryani, which was half-price for the opening, and also ordered the Peshawar beef patties; the beef patties were quite flavorful. I plan to go back after work today to try the curry with naan. Collapse Read »

Eating South Asian and Middle Eastern Food in Beijing (Part 3)

Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces Eating South Asian and Middle Eastern Food in Beijing (Part 3). On July 1, 2020, after work, I bought Tandoori Chicken Biryani, Achari Chana Masala, and Mint Chutney from Tiffin, a Pakistani restaurant located behind Gome First City on Qingnian Road. It is useful for readers interested in Beijing Halal Food, Muslim Travel, Middle Eastern Food.



















On July 1, 2020, after work, I bought Tandoori Chicken Biryani, Achari Chana Masala, and Mint Chutney from Tiffin, a Pakistani restaurant located behind Gome First City on Qingnian Road. Since that thing happened, many of their Pakistani chefs haven't been able to come to China, so now there are only two Pakistani chefs left, and they only offer takeout instead of dine-in, which actually fits their name, "Tiffin."

The Tiffin culture originated in the late 18th century during the British Raj in India. After the British arrived in India, the hot weather led to the gradual simplification of lunch, and the term "Tiffin" began to refer to any light meal between breakfast and dinner on the Indian subcontinent.

Tiffin can also specifically refer to the lunch box used for takeaway meals. In major cities across India and Pakistan, you can often see delivery men using handcarts or bicycles to carry countless tiffin boxes, delivering them one by one to various shops in the market.











4. Restaurants that opened in 2021

1. Turkish restaurant Qubbe

On September 11, 2021, a new Turkish restaurant called Qubbe opened right next to Xiting Xiuse. The head chef is from the Turkish Embassy. Our Beijing Jamaat gathered there for dinner last night; the food was delicious, and we were happy to see old friends and meet new ones.



For appetizers, we ordered chicken soup, lentil soup, and mushroom soup, a classic start.

Sarah ordered feta salad, shepherd's salad, chicken Caesar salad, and arugula salad.

For appetizers, we ordered Hummus, Mutebbel (eggplant yogurt dip), Babagannush (eggplant sesame dip), and eggplant with tomato sauce.



For our main course, we ordered Lavash flatbread, Lahmacun, black cumin and sesame bread, hollow bread, double cheese Pide, Mevlana meat Pide, and Doner kebab sandwiches; their oven is amazing!





We ordered a ten-person mixed grill platter, which included Adana spicy minced meat, regular minced meat, chicken skewers, lamb skewers, grilled chicken chops, and grilled lamb chops—it was quite a spectacle! We also ordered filet mignon and Iskender beef kebab.







The dessert after the meal was classic baklava, milk pudding, and the super amazing Turkish Mado ice cream. Mado is a very famous Turkish ice cream chain brand, originating from the city of Kahramanmarash in southeastern Turkey. They previously had stores in Yiwu and Guangzhou, and now they have finally opened in Beijing. It should be the most authentic Turkish ice cream in China, all made using goat milk from their hometown of Kahramanmarash.





On the morning of September 12, 2021, I visited Qubbe for the second time, where the chef from the Turkish Embassy is in charge. I had a Turkish breakfast with three types of olives, six types of cheese, and five types of dips; it was very rich, and each cheese had a different texture and level of sweetness or sourness. It was served with thin flatbread and the classic Turkish bagel, Simit.

The earliest record of Simit in Istanbul dates back to 1525. According to the records of the famous 17th-century Ottoman traveler Evliya Çelebi, there were 70 simit bakeries in Istanbul in the 1630s.

Then we also ordered salty yogurt Ayran and an appetizer platter, which included Antep Ezme spicy tomato mash, tomato sauce eggplant, Hummus chickpea puree, Mutebbel eggplant yogurt dip, and Babagannush sesame eggplant dip.



















2. Istanbul, a Turkish restaurant

On August 21, 2021, a friend told me that the 'Istanbul' restaurant, a Turkish establishment in Beijing for nearly 20 years, had reopened, so I rushed over to have dinner there that evening. The Istanbul restaurant opened in Jianguomen in 2002, and after closing in 2018, they had been looking for a new location; now they have moved opposite the No. 55 Middle School at Dongsishitiao Bridge, which is super close to my home!

We ordered lentil soup with fennel, guacamole, grilled cheese eggplant, doner kebab salad, a mixed grill platter, pumpkin cheese pizza, and Turkish black tea. Overall, everything was quite delicious, especially the pumpkin cheese pizza! Next time, I want to try the Kofte meatballs and Iskender kebab. Also, I must praise their service for being exceptionally warm; the chef personally came over to explain which meat it was and which sauce to dip it in, smiling the whole time. The waiter was very proactive in refilling our water and responded to every call, making for a truly great experience. However, to be honest, their grilled meat is still not as good as Al Safir's. Al Safir's grilled meat is the best among Middle Eastern restaurants in Beijing in my opinion.



















3. The Palestinian restaurant Zayton in Sanlitun

On August 15, 2021, a new Arabic restaurant called Zayton opened in Sanlitun Soho, and everyone has been flocking there to check it out, so we went to eat there last night too.

Compared to other foreign halal restaurants in Sanlitun, their prices are really not high; the owner is a Palestinian who lived in Syria for a long time, and they mainly serve various Levantine snacks. We ordered chicken Shawarma, veal steak, chickpea yogurt salad Fatteh, Ayran yogurt, and Arabic coffee. Let me introduce Fatteh here, as it is really not common in other Arabic restaurants in Beijing.

Fatteh means "crushed" in Arabic; it is a snack from the southern Levant region, found in Damascus, Beirut, Jordan, and Palestine, but not in the northern Levant. The main ingredient of Fatteh is crushed Khubz bread, topped with yogurt, steamed chickpeas, olive oil, and other ingredients, then sprinkled with cumin; sometimes eggplant, carrots, chicken, or lamb are added, and in this version, pine nuts were added.

















On August 25, 2021, I visited Zayton, a Palestinian restaurant in Sanlitun SOHO, for the second time. I ordered grilled meat with garlic yogurt sauce, beef hummus, falafel, and Tabbouleh salad. Their falafel is truly delicious; it is crispy on the outside and tender on the inside when freshly fried, but this wonderful texture only lasts for 5 minutes, as it becomes dry when made into a falafel sandwich or ordered for takeout.

Tabbouleh is a Levantine Meze (appetizer) made of chopped parsley, tomatoes, mint, onion, and bulgur (cracked wheat), seasoned with olive oil, lemon juice, salt, and pepper. The word 'tabbūle' in Levantine Arabic comes from the ancient Aramaic root 't-b-l', which means 'to season' or 'to dip'. Tabbouleh salad originated in the mountains of Lebanon and Syria, and the wheat grown in Lebanon's Beqaa Valley was once recognized as being particularly suitable for making bulgur.

















Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces Eating South Asian and Middle Eastern Food in Beijing (Part 3). On July 1, 2020, after work, I bought Tandoori Chicken Biryani, Achari Chana Masala, and Mint Chutney from Tiffin, a Pakistani restaurant located behind Gome First City on Qingnian Road. It is useful for readers interested in Beijing Halal Food, Muslim Travel, Middle Eastern Food.



















On July 1, 2020, after work, I bought Tandoori Chicken Biryani, Achari Chana Masala, and Mint Chutney from Tiffin, a Pakistani restaurant located behind Gome First City on Qingnian Road. Since that thing happened, many of their Pakistani chefs haven't been able to come to China, so now there are only two Pakistani chefs left, and they only offer takeout instead of dine-in, which actually fits their name, "Tiffin."

The Tiffin culture originated in the late 18th century during the British Raj in India. After the British arrived in India, the hot weather led to the gradual simplification of lunch, and the term "Tiffin" began to refer to any light meal between breakfast and dinner on the Indian subcontinent.

Tiffin can also specifically refer to the lunch box used for takeaway meals. In major cities across India and Pakistan, you can often see delivery men using handcarts or bicycles to carry countless tiffin boxes, delivering them one by one to various shops in the market.











4. Restaurants that opened in 2021

1. Turkish restaurant Qubbe

On September 11, 2021, a new Turkish restaurant called Qubbe opened right next to Xiting Xiuse. The head chef is from the Turkish Embassy. Our Beijing Jamaat gathered there for dinner last night; the food was delicious, and we were happy to see old friends and meet new ones.



For appetizers, we ordered chicken soup, lentil soup, and mushroom soup, a classic start.

Sarah ordered feta salad, shepherd's salad, chicken Caesar salad, and arugula salad.

For appetizers, we ordered Hummus, Mutebbel (eggplant yogurt dip), Babagannush (eggplant sesame dip), and eggplant with tomato sauce.



For our main course, we ordered Lavash flatbread, Lahmacun, black cumin and sesame bread, hollow bread, double cheese Pide, Mevlana meat Pide, and Doner kebab sandwiches; their oven is amazing!





We ordered a ten-person mixed grill platter, which included Adana spicy minced meat, regular minced meat, chicken skewers, lamb skewers, grilled chicken chops, and grilled lamb chops—it was quite a spectacle! We also ordered filet mignon and Iskender beef kebab.







The dessert after the meal was classic baklava, milk pudding, and the super amazing Turkish Mado ice cream. Mado is a very famous Turkish ice cream chain brand, originating from the city of Kahramanmarash in southeastern Turkey. They previously had stores in Yiwu and Guangzhou, and now they have finally opened in Beijing. It should be the most authentic Turkish ice cream in China, all made using goat milk from their hometown of Kahramanmarash.





On the morning of September 12, 2021, I visited Qubbe for the second time, where the chef from the Turkish Embassy is in charge. I had a Turkish breakfast with three types of olives, six types of cheese, and five types of dips; it was very rich, and each cheese had a different texture and level of sweetness or sourness. It was served with thin flatbread and the classic Turkish bagel, Simit.

The earliest record of Simit in Istanbul dates back to 1525. According to the records of the famous 17th-century Ottoman traveler Evliya Çelebi, there were 70 simit bakeries in Istanbul in the 1630s.

Then we also ordered salty yogurt Ayran and an appetizer platter, which included Antep Ezme spicy tomato mash, tomato sauce eggplant, Hummus chickpea puree, Mutebbel eggplant yogurt dip, and Babagannush sesame eggplant dip.



















2. Istanbul, a Turkish restaurant

On August 21, 2021, a friend told me that the 'Istanbul' restaurant, a Turkish establishment in Beijing for nearly 20 years, had reopened, so I rushed over to have dinner there that evening. The Istanbul restaurant opened in Jianguomen in 2002, and after closing in 2018, they had been looking for a new location; now they have moved opposite the No. 55 Middle School at Dongsishitiao Bridge, which is super close to my home!

We ordered lentil soup with fennel, guacamole, grilled cheese eggplant, doner kebab salad, a mixed grill platter, pumpkin cheese pizza, and Turkish black tea. Overall, everything was quite delicious, especially the pumpkin cheese pizza! Next time, I want to try the Kofte meatballs and Iskender kebab. Also, I must praise their service for being exceptionally warm; the chef personally came over to explain which meat it was and which sauce to dip it in, smiling the whole time. The waiter was very proactive in refilling our water and responded to every call, making for a truly great experience. However, to be honest, their grilled meat is still not as good as Al Safir's. Al Safir's grilled meat is the best among Middle Eastern restaurants in Beijing in my opinion.



















3. The Palestinian restaurant Zayton in Sanlitun

On August 15, 2021, a new Arabic restaurant called Zayton opened in Sanlitun Soho, and everyone has been flocking there to check it out, so we went to eat there last night too.

Compared to other foreign halal restaurants in Sanlitun, their prices are really not high; the owner is a Palestinian who lived in Syria for a long time, and they mainly serve various Levantine snacks. We ordered chicken Shawarma, veal steak, chickpea yogurt salad Fatteh, Ayran yogurt, and Arabic coffee. Let me introduce Fatteh here, as it is really not common in other Arabic restaurants in Beijing.

Fatteh means "crushed" in Arabic; it is a snack from the southern Levant region, found in Damascus, Beirut, Jordan, and Palestine, but not in the northern Levant. The main ingredient of Fatteh is crushed Khubz bread, topped with yogurt, steamed chickpeas, olive oil, and other ingredients, then sprinkled with cumin; sometimes eggplant, carrots, chicken, or lamb are added, and in this version, pine nuts were added.

















On August 25, 2021, I visited Zayton, a Palestinian restaurant in Sanlitun SOHO, for the second time. I ordered grilled meat with garlic yogurt sauce, beef hummus, falafel, and Tabbouleh salad. Their falafel is truly delicious; it is crispy on the outside and tender on the inside when freshly fried, but this wonderful texture only lasts for 5 minutes, as it becomes dry when made into a falafel sandwich or ordered for takeout.

Tabbouleh is a Levantine Meze (appetizer) made of chopped parsley, tomatoes, mint, onion, and bulgur (cracked wheat), seasoned with olive oil, lemon juice, salt, and pepper. The word 'tabbūle' in Levantine Arabic comes from the ancient Aramaic root 't-b-l', which means 'to season' or 'to dip'. Tabbouleh salad originated in the mountains of Lebanon and Syria, and the wheat grown in Lebanon's Beqaa Valley was once recognized as being particularly suitable for making bulgur.

















Collapse Read »

Timur's Hometown - Shahrisabz

Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces Timur's Hometown - Shahrisabz. Shahrisabz, formerly known as Kesh, is located south of Samarkand on the main route to Afghanistan. It is useful for readers interested in Uzbekistan Travel, Timurid History, Muslim Heritage.

Shahrisabz, formerly known as Kesh, is located south of Samarkand on the main route to Afghanistan. Kesh was originally a city founded by the Sogdians and was the capital of the state of Shi of the Nine Sogdian States. After the Mongol conquest of Central Asia in 1225, the Barlas tribe followed Genghis Khan's son Chagatai to establish the Chagatai Khanate and settled in the Kesh area.

In 1346, the last khan of Chagatai, Qazan Sultan, was killed, and the Chagatai Khanate fell into division, leading to wars of annexation among the tribes. In 1360, Tughlugh Timur, the founding great khan of the Eastern Chagatai Khanate, led his army on a western campaign. The original Barlas tribal leaders of Kesh fled upon hearing the news, while the collateral noble Amir Timur defected to the Eastern Chagatai Khanate and was granted Kesh. After 10 years of campaigning, Timur finally unified the entire Transoxiana region in 1370 and established the Timurid dynasty as the protector of the Chagatai khans.

After the establishment of the Timurid dynasty, Timur renamed his hometown Kesh to Shahrisabz, which means "green city" in Persian. Shahrisabz became an important city second only to Samarkand in status, with prosperous development in trade, handicrafts, arts, and sciences. Timur built a huge palace and family mausoleum here, many of which are preserved to this day. After Timur's death, his grandson Ulugh Beg continued to develop Shahrisabz, building a grand mosque and new mausoleums in the city.

Table of Contents

I. Crossing the Snow Mountains

II. North City Wall: 1378

III. Ak Saray - Timur's Summer Palace: 1380-1404

IV. Dorus Saodat Complex - Timurid Family Tombs: 1380-1404

1. Jahangir's Mausoleum

2. Timur's Mausoleum

V. Dorut Tilavat Complex - Timurid Family Religious Sanctuary: 14th-15th Centuries

1. Shams ud-Din Kulal's Mausoleum: 1374

2. Gumbazi Seidon: 1437

3. Kok Gumbaz Mosque: 1435

VI. Chubin Madrasah - Museum of Timurid History and Material Culture

VII. Later Buildings

1. Koba Madrasah - 16th Century

2. Domed Bazaar: Late 17th Century

3. Malik Ajdar Mosque: Late 19th Century

I. Crossing the Snow Mountains

The location for hiring a car from Samarkand to Shahrisabz is at the entrance of the Registon supermarket at the crossroads southeast of Registan. The round trip costs about 200 RMB, the one-way journey of 90 kilometers takes 1 hour, and it involves crossing a pass at an altitude of 1788 meters. This pass may be temporarily closed during winter snow.





There are stalls selling dried curd snacks at the pass. I tasted one, and it was super sour. Sour food lovers would like it!











II. North City Wall: 1378

After a 1-hour journey, the car stopped outside the north gate of Shahrisabz, and we began our tour of the city.

In 1378, Timur expanded the city walls of Shahrisabz. The newly built rammed earth city wall is 8 meters thick and 11 meters high, with a bastion every 50 meters. There was once a moat outside the wall. During the 18th and 19th centuries, this city wall withstood multiple sieges, as Shahrisabz waged several wars to resist the rule of the Emir of Bukhara.



The restored North City Wall



Unrestored rammed earth remains of the North City Wall

III. Ak Saray - Timur's Summer Palace: 1380-1404

Ak Saray (White Palace) is the ruins of Timur's summer palace, located inside the north gate of Shahrisabz. After Timur conquered Khwarazm in 1379, he brought many Khwarazmian craftsmen to Shahrisabz and officially began construction of his summer palace in the spring of 1380.

By 1396, the main structure of Ak Saray had been completed after 16 years of construction, while the exterior decoration was not finally finished until shortly before Timur's death in 1404. Based on the existing structure, the main gate of Ak Saray may have been as high as 50 meters, with minarets on both sides exceeding 65 meters (currently 38 meters remain), which is 1.5 times the height of the Kalyan Minaret in Bukhara. In addition to Khwarazmian craftsmen, many craftsmen from Transoxiana and Iran also participated in the construction. The name of Mohammed Jusufat Tebrizi, a craftsman from Tabriz, Iran, is repeated twice on the mosaic decoration of the main gate. In addition, the gate bears the inscription: "If you doubt our greatness, look at our buildings!" In addition, the gate bears the inscription:

In 1404, Clavijo, the ambassador of Castile, Spain, visited Ak Saray. According to his memoirs, behind the palace gate was a courtyard 300 paces wide, enclosed by two layers of residential areas. To the west of the courtyard was a mosque, to the south was the reception hall, and there was a mosaic-decorated pool in the middle of the courtyard. The reception hall was painted gold and blue, covered with tiles, the ceilings were gilded, and the main gate was inlaid with the coat of arms of a lion and a sun.

Legend has it that Ak Saray was ordered to be demolished by Abdullah Khan II, the last khan of the Shaybanid dynasty of the Khanate of Bukhara, at the end of the 16th century. However, it is more likely that the palace was gradually dismantled by local residents who took bricks to build their homes. It is said that bricks from the palace were used in half of the old city's houses.











Between 1973 and 1975, the Soviet Union conducted archaeological excavations of the palace ruins south of Ak Saray, unearthing a large number of architectural decorations, marble carvings, and mosaic tiles, as well as remains of richly decorated floors.







IV. Dorus Saodat Complex - Timurid Family Tombs: 1380-1404

Dorus Saodat is located south of Shahrisabz and is a mausoleum complex built by Timur for his family. Construction began in 1380, almost simultaneously with Timur's summer palace, Ak Saray.

After Dorus Saodat was completed, Jahangir Mirza, Timur's beloved son who died in 1376, was reburied here. In 1394, Timur's other son, Umar Shaikh Mirza I, was also buried here.

1. Jahangir's Mausoleum

Jahangir was Timur's most beloved son and heir. In 1368, Qamar ud-Din of the Dughlat tribe of the Chagatai Mongols launched a rebellion and ruled the Eastern Chagatai Khanate. After this, Timur launched multiple campaigns to conquer the Eastern Chagatai Khanate. In June 1375, Jahangir, as the vanguard, heavily defeated Qamar ud-Din's main forces and pursued them into the mountains near Kashgar, capturing Tuman Agha, Qamar ud-Din's wife, and Dilshad Agha, his daughter, achieving a great victory.

In 1376, Jahangir died of illness at the age of 19. Timur was heartbroken by the loss of his beloved son and even halted his military operations. Timur temporarily buried his beloved son in his hometown of Shahrisabz and later built a magnificent mausoleum for him.







Umar Shaikh Mirza I was another son of Timur. There is no clear evidence as to who was older between him and Jahangir. Umar Shaikh was an excellent military officer who followed his father on campaigns. In 1376, at the age of 20, he was appointed governor of Fergana.

In 1388, Tokhtamysh, the great khan of the Golden Horde, and Qamar ud-Din, the ruler of the Eastern Chagatai Khanate, attacked the Timurid dynasty from both sides, from Bukhara and Fergana respectively. Umar Shaikh was ordered to block the Eastern Chagatai army in Fergana and quickly defeated his opponents. That winter, Umar Shaikh again defeated the Golden Horde army led by Great Khan Tokhtamysh.

In 1391, Timur and Tokhtamysh clashed in the famous Battle of the Kondurcha River near the Volga River. Umar Shaikh was in command of Timur's left flank. During the battle, Umar Shaikh was almost defeated due to initial hesitation, but ultimately Timur himself, leading the army from the rear, defeated Tokhtamysh, and a large number of the Golden Horde army was routed and killed. The death toll in this battle is estimated to have reached 100,000.

In 1393, Timur destroyed the Muzaffarid dynasty in Persia and subsequently appointed Umar Shaikh as the governor of the Fars region of Persia. A year later, in 1394, Timur ordered Umar Shaikh to return to his side. While passing a castle near Baghdad, Umar Shaikh was killed by an arrow. It is said that Timur showed no emotion upon hearing of his son's death.

After Umar Shaikh's death, his body was transported back to his hometown of Shahrisabz and buried alongside his brother Jahangir.



Timur and Tokhtamysh in the decisive battle, painted by Pir 'Ali al-Jami of the Safavid dynasty of Persia in the 16th century









Next to the tomb is a mosque built in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.



2. Timur's Mausoleum

In 1943, Soviet archaeologists discovered another underground mausoleum next to the tomb of Jahangir, Timur's son. The sarcophagus in the tomb chamber bore Timur's name, suggesting this might be the mausoleum Timur had built for himself in his hometown during his lifetime. However, Timur was actually buried in Samarkand. Archaeologists found two bodies in the tomb whose identities remain unknown to this day.



















V. Dorut Tilavat Complex - Timurid Family Religious Sanctuary: 14th-15th Centuries

The Dorut Tilavat complex is located south of Shahrisabz. It was originally a madrasah for the Sufi scholar Shams ud-Din Kulal and later became the religious center of Shahrisabz. It contains a mausoleum built by Timur in 1374 for his spiritual mentor, and it is said that Timur also buried his father there. In 1437, Timur's grandson Ulugh Beg, aiming to develop this place into a religious center, built new family mausoleums and a grand mosque.

1. Shams ud-Din Kulal's Mausoleum: 1374

Shams ud-Din Kulal, known as Sheikh Kulal, was a Sufi scholar from Bukhara. He preached in Shahrisabz for a long time and established the Dorut Tilavat madrasah south of the city. Due to Sheikh Kulal's profound knowledge, he gradually became the spiritual mentor of Timur's Barlas tribe and was highly respected by Timur's father, Turghai. Later, his grandson Amir Kulal also became Timur's spiritual mentor.

After Sheikh Kulal's death, he was buried within the Dorut Tilavat madrasah. In 1360, after Timur's father passed away, Timur requested Amir Kulal, Sheikh Kulal's grandson, to bury his father Turghai next to Sheikh Kulal. However, Amir Kulal refused this request. In 1370, Amir Kulal died, and in the same year, Timur established the Timurid dynasty. In the first year of Timur's reign, he began expanding Sheikh Kulal's mausoleum and also moved his father's remains to be buried next to Sheikh Kulal. The main structure was officially completed in 1374.

In fact, it was not until the latter half of the 20th century that this was identified as Sheikh Kulal's mausoleum, and there is no direct evidence. In the 20th century, only the walls, several marble tombstones, and a wooden door were original, and they bore no information about the tomb's occupant. In 1950, a flat ceiling was added to the mausoleum, and in 1996, the ceiling was restored, along with the damaged dome and tombstone.







2. Gumbazi Seidon: 1437

After Timur's death in 1405, his son Shah Rukh inherited the eastern part of the empire. Shah Rukh moved the capital of the Timurid Empire from Samarkand to Herat, Afghanistan, while allowing his son Ulugh Beg to rule the Transoxiana region.

As the "holy city" of the Timurid Empire, Ulugh Beg frequently visited Shahrisabz and wished to build a religious center in the city. In 1437, Ulugh Beg built a new mausoleum adjacent to Sheikh Kulal's tomb. Subsequently, respected Sufi masters were buried there. The most important of these Sufi masters was called Termez seyids, hence this mausoleum is also known as "Gumbazi Seidon" (Dome of the Seyids).

After the 17th century, a Khanaka (Sufi lodge) was built next to the mausoleum, and the passage to the mausoleum was sealed. This lodge was demolished in the mid-20th century. In 1973, the damaged dome of the mausoleum was restored, and in 1996, the interior murals were restored and preserved.















On the left is Shams ud-Din Kulal's Mausoleum, and on the right is Gumbazi Seidon.



3. Kok Gumbaz Mosque: 1435

In addition to the mausoleums, Ulugh Beg also built the main Friday mosque of Shahrisabz, Kok Gumbaz (Blue Dome), next to Kulal's tomb. This mosque is said to have been built on the foundation of an ancient Karakhanid mosque. To increase the prayer space, 40-domed corridors were built on both sides of the main hall of the mosque.

















In the 19th century, a small minaret was added to the courtyard, but by then, the domes of both the mosque and the mausoleum had collapsed. In 1976, the facade of the mosque was restored, and between 1994 and 1996, the interior murals were restored and preserved.



VI. Chubin Madrasah - Museum of Timurid History and Material Culture

In 1996, marking the 660th anniversary of Timur's birth, the former site of the Chubin Madrasah in Shahrisabz was converted into the Museum of Timurid History and Material Culture, exhibiting many artifacts from the Timurid era unearthed during archaeological excavations in the ancient city.

















VII. Later Buildings

1. Koba Madrasah - 16th Century

The Koba madrasah was built in the 16th century and has now been converted into a restaurant for tourists.



2. Domed Bazaar: Late 17th Century

At the intersection of the two main roads in Shahrisabz is the Chorsu (Domed Bazaar), rebuilt on the site of an original market in the late 17th century, in a typical Khanate of Bukhara style. Until a few years ago, this was a bustling market bazaar, but due to the government's efforts to turn the ancient city into a tourist attraction, all residential buildings were demolished to create a plaza, and the bazaar disappeared. Currently, the domed bazaar has become a souvenir shop. It was not open when I visited because it was the off-season.



3. Malik Ajdar Mosque: Late 19th Century

The Malik Ajdar Mosque is a typical 19th-century mosque in the area. The main hall is used for winter prayers and is heated by stoves. The adjacent shaded area is used for summer prayers.



After the tour, we took a tourist vehicle back to the north gate.

Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces Timur's Hometown - Shahrisabz. Shahrisabz, formerly known as Kesh, is located south of Samarkand on the main route to Afghanistan. It is useful for readers interested in Uzbekistan Travel, Timurid History, Muslim Heritage.

Shahrisabz, formerly known as Kesh, is located south of Samarkand on the main route to Afghanistan. Kesh was originally a city founded by the Sogdians and was the capital of the state of Shi of the Nine Sogdian States. After the Mongol conquest of Central Asia in 1225, the Barlas tribe followed Genghis Khan's son Chagatai to establish the Chagatai Khanate and settled in the Kesh area.

In 1346, the last khan of Chagatai, Qazan Sultan, was killed, and the Chagatai Khanate fell into division, leading to wars of annexation among the tribes. In 1360, Tughlugh Timur, the founding great khan of the Eastern Chagatai Khanate, led his army on a western campaign. The original Barlas tribal leaders of Kesh fled upon hearing the news, while the collateral noble Amir Timur defected to the Eastern Chagatai Khanate and was granted Kesh. After 10 years of campaigning, Timur finally unified the entire Transoxiana region in 1370 and established the Timurid dynasty as the protector of the Chagatai khans.

After the establishment of the Timurid dynasty, Timur renamed his hometown Kesh to Shahrisabz, which means "green city" in Persian. Shahrisabz became an important city second only to Samarkand in status, with prosperous development in trade, handicrafts, arts, and sciences. Timur built a huge palace and family mausoleum here, many of which are preserved to this day. After Timur's death, his grandson Ulugh Beg continued to develop Shahrisabz, building a grand mosque and new mausoleums in the city.

Table of Contents

I. Crossing the Snow Mountains

II. North City Wall: 1378

III. Ak Saray - Timur's Summer Palace: 1380-1404

IV. Dorus Saodat Complex - Timurid Family Tombs: 1380-1404

1. Jahangir's Mausoleum

2. Timur's Mausoleum

V. Dorut Tilavat Complex - Timurid Family Religious Sanctuary: 14th-15th Centuries

1. Shams ud-Din Kulal's Mausoleum: 1374

2. Gumbazi Seidon: 1437

3. Kok Gumbaz Mosque: 1435

VI. Chubin Madrasah - Museum of Timurid History and Material Culture

VII. Later Buildings

1. Koba Madrasah - 16th Century

2. Domed Bazaar: Late 17th Century

3. Malik Ajdar Mosque: Late 19th Century

I. Crossing the Snow Mountains

The location for hiring a car from Samarkand to Shahrisabz is at the entrance of the Registon supermarket at the crossroads southeast of Registan. The round trip costs about 200 RMB, the one-way journey of 90 kilometers takes 1 hour, and it involves crossing a pass at an altitude of 1788 meters. This pass may be temporarily closed during winter snow.





There are stalls selling dried curd snacks at the pass. I tasted one, and it was super sour. Sour food lovers would like it!











II. North City Wall: 1378

After a 1-hour journey, the car stopped outside the north gate of Shahrisabz, and we began our tour of the city.

In 1378, Timur expanded the city walls of Shahrisabz. The newly built rammed earth city wall is 8 meters thick and 11 meters high, with a bastion every 50 meters. There was once a moat outside the wall. During the 18th and 19th centuries, this city wall withstood multiple sieges, as Shahrisabz waged several wars to resist the rule of the Emir of Bukhara.



The restored North City Wall



Unrestored rammed earth remains of the North City Wall

III. Ak Saray - Timur's Summer Palace: 1380-1404

Ak Saray (White Palace) is the ruins of Timur's summer palace, located inside the north gate of Shahrisabz. After Timur conquered Khwarazm in 1379, he brought many Khwarazmian craftsmen to Shahrisabz and officially began construction of his summer palace in the spring of 1380.

By 1396, the main structure of Ak Saray had been completed after 16 years of construction, while the exterior decoration was not finally finished until shortly before Timur's death in 1404. Based on the existing structure, the main gate of Ak Saray may have been as high as 50 meters, with minarets on both sides exceeding 65 meters (currently 38 meters remain), which is 1.5 times the height of the Kalyan Minaret in Bukhara. In addition to Khwarazmian craftsmen, many craftsmen from Transoxiana and Iran also participated in the construction. The name of Mohammed Jusufat Tebrizi, a craftsman from Tabriz, Iran, is repeated twice on the mosaic decoration of the main gate. In addition, the gate bears the inscription: "If you doubt our greatness, look at our buildings!" In addition, the gate bears the inscription:

In 1404, Clavijo, the ambassador of Castile, Spain, visited Ak Saray. According to his memoirs, behind the palace gate was a courtyard 300 paces wide, enclosed by two layers of residential areas. To the west of the courtyard was a mosque, to the south was the reception hall, and there was a mosaic-decorated pool in the middle of the courtyard. The reception hall was painted gold and blue, covered with tiles, the ceilings were gilded, and the main gate was inlaid with the coat of arms of a lion and a sun.

Legend has it that Ak Saray was ordered to be demolished by Abdullah Khan II, the last khan of the Shaybanid dynasty of the Khanate of Bukhara, at the end of the 16th century. However, it is more likely that the palace was gradually dismantled by local residents who took bricks to build their homes. It is said that bricks from the palace were used in half of the old city's houses.











Between 1973 and 1975, the Soviet Union conducted archaeological excavations of the palace ruins south of Ak Saray, unearthing a large number of architectural decorations, marble carvings, and mosaic tiles, as well as remains of richly decorated floors.







IV. Dorus Saodat Complex - Timurid Family Tombs: 1380-1404

Dorus Saodat is located south of Shahrisabz and is a mausoleum complex built by Timur for his family. Construction began in 1380, almost simultaneously with Timur's summer palace, Ak Saray.

After Dorus Saodat was completed, Jahangir Mirza, Timur's beloved son who died in 1376, was reburied here. In 1394, Timur's other son, Umar Shaikh Mirza I, was also buried here.

1. Jahangir's Mausoleum

Jahangir was Timur's most beloved son and heir. In 1368, Qamar ud-Din of the Dughlat tribe of the Chagatai Mongols launched a rebellion and ruled the Eastern Chagatai Khanate. After this, Timur launched multiple campaigns to conquer the Eastern Chagatai Khanate. In June 1375, Jahangir, as the vanguard, heavily defeated Qamar ud-Din's main forces and pursued them into the mountains near Kashgar, capturing Tuman Agha, Qamar ud-Din's wife, and Dilshad Agha, his daughter, achieving a great victory.

In 1376, Jahangir died of illness at the age of 19. Timur was heartbroken by the loss of his beloved son and even halted his military operations. Timur temporarily buried his beloved son in his hometown of Shahrisabz and later built a magnificent mausoleum for him.







Umar Shaikh Mirza I was another son of Timur. There is no clear evidence as to who was older between him and Jahangir. Umar Shaikh was an excellent military officer who followed his father on campaigns. In 1376, at the age of 20, he was appointed governor of Fergana.

In 1388, Tokhtamysh, the great khan of the Golden Horde, and Qamar ud-Din, the ruler of the Eastern Chagatai Khanate, attacked the Timurid dynasty from both sides, from Bukhara and Fergana respectively. Umar Shaikh was ordered to block the Eastern Chagatai army in Fergana and quickly defeated his opponents. That winter, Umar Shaikh again defeated the Golden Horde army led by Great Khan Tokhtamysh.

In 1391, Timur and Tokhtamysh clashed in the famous Battle of the Kondurcha River near the Volga River. Umar Shaikh was in command of Timur's left flank. During the battle, Umar Shaikh was almost defeated due to initial hesitation, but ultimately Timur himself, leading the army from the rear, defeated Tokhtamysh, and a large number of the Golden Horde army was routed and killed. The death toll in this battle is estimated to have reached 100,000.

In 1393, Timur destroyed the Muzaffarid dynasty in Persia and subsequently appointed Umar Shaikh as the governor of the Fars region of Persia. A year later, in 1394, Timur ordered Umar Shaikh to return to his side. While passing a castle near Baghdad, Umar Shaikh was killed by an arrow. It is said that Timur showed no emotion upon hearing of his son's death.

After Umar Shaikh's death, his body was transported back to his hometown of Shahrisabz and buried alongside his brother Jahangir.



Timur and Tokhtamysh in the decisive battle, painted by Pir 'Ali al-Jami of the Safavid dynasty of Persia in the 16th century









Next to the tomb is a mosque built in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.



2. Timur's Mausoleum

In 1943, Soviet archaeologists discovered another underground mausoleum next to the tomb of Jahangir, Timur's son. The sarcophagus in the tomb chamber bore Timur's name, suggesting this might be the mausoleum Timur had built for himself in his hometown during his lifetime. However, Timur was actually buried in Samarkand. Archaeologists found two bodies in the tomb whose identities remain unknown to this day.



















V. Dorut Tilavat Complex - Timurid Family Religious Sanctuary: 14th-15th Centuries

The Dorut Tilavat complex is located south of Shahrisabz. It was originally a madrasah for the Sufi scholar Shams ud-Din Kulal and later became the religious center of Shahrisabz. It contains a mausoleum built by Timur in 1374 for his spiritual mentor, and it is said that Timur also buried his father there. In 1437, Timur's grandson Ulugh Beg, aiming to develop this place into a religious center, built new family mausoleums and a grand mosque.

1. Shams ud-Din Kulal's Mausoleum: 1374

Shams ud-Din Kulal, known as Sheikh Kulal, was a Sufi scholar from Bukhara. He preached in Shahrisabz for a long time and established the Dorut Tilavat madrasah south of the city. Due to Sheikh Kulal's profound knowledge, he gradually became the spiritual mentor of Timur's Barlas tribe and was highly respected by Timur's father, Turghai. Later, his grandson Amir Kulal also became Timur's spiritual mentor.

After Sheikh Kulal's death, he was buried within the Dorut Tilavat madrasah. In 1360, after Timur's father passed away, Timur requested Amir Kulal, Sheikh Kulal's grandson, to bury his father Turghai next to Sheikh Kulal. However, Amir Kulal refused this request. In 1370, Amir Kulal died, and in the same year, Timur established the Timurid dynasty. In the first year of Timur's reign, he began expanding Sheikh Kulal's mausoleum and also moved his father's remains to be buried next to Sheikh Kulal. The main structure was officially completed in 1374.

In fact, it was not until the latter half of the 20th century that this was identified as Sheikh Kulal's mausoleum, and there is no direct evidence. In the 20th century, only the walls, several marble tombstones, and a wooden door were original, and they bore no information about the tomb's occupant. In 1950, a flat ceiling was added to the mausoleum, and in 1996, the ceiling was restored, along with the damaged dome and tombstone.







2. Gumbazi Seidon: 1437

After Timur's death in 1405, his son Shah Rukh inherited the eastern part of the empire. Shah Rukh moved the capital of the Timurid Empire from Samarkand to Herat, Afghanistan, while allowing his son Ulugh Beg to rule the Transoxiana region.

As the "holy city" of the Timurid Empire, Ulugh Beg frequently visited Shahrisabz and wished to build a religious center in the city. In 1437, Ulugh Beg built a new mausoleum adjacent to Sheikh Kulal's tomb. Subsequently, respected Sufi masters were buried there. The most important of these Sufi masters was called Termez seyids, hence this mausoleum is also known as "Gumbazi Seidon" (Dome of the Seyids).

After the 17th century, a Khanaka (Sufi lodge) was built next to the mausoleum, and the passage to the mausoleum was sealed. This lodge was demolished in the mid-20th century. In 1973, the damaged dome of the mausoleum was restored, and in 1996, the interior murals were restored and preserved.















On the left is Shams ud-Din Kulal's Mausoleum, and on the right is Gumbazi Seidon.



3. Kok Gumbaz Mosque: 1435

In addition to the mausoleums, Ulugh Beg also built the main Friday mosque of Shahrisabz, Kok Gumbaz (Blue Dome), next to Kulal's tomb. This mosque is said to have been built on the foundation of an ancient Karakhanid mosque. To increase the prayer space, 40-domed corridors were built on both sides of the main hall of the mosque.

















In the 19th century, a small minaret was added to the courtyard, but by then, the domes of both the mosque and the mausoleum had collapsed. In 1976, the facade of the mosque was restored, and between 1994 and 1996, the interior murals were restored and preserved.



VI. Chubin Madrasah - Museum of Timurid History and Material Culture

In 1996, marking the 660th anniversary of Timur's birth, the former site of the Chubin Madrasah in Shahrisabz was converted into the Museum of Timurid History and Material Culture, exhibiting many artifacts from the Timurid era unearthed during archaeological excavations in the ancient city.

















VII. Later Buildings

1. Koba Madrasah - 16th Century

The Koba madrasah was built in the 16th century and has now been converted into a restaurant for tourists.



2. Domed Bazaar: Late 17th Century

At the intersection of the two main roads in Shahrisabz is the Chorsu (Domed Bazaar), rebuilt on the site of an original market in the late 17th century, in a typical Khanate of Bukhara style. Until a few years ago, this was a bustling market bazaar, but due to the government's efforts to turn the ancient city into a tourist attraction, all residential buildings were demolished to create a plaza, and the bazaar disappeared. Currently, the domed bazaar has become a souvenir shop. It was not open when I visited because it was the off-season.



3. Malik Ajdar Mosque: Late 19th Century

The Malik Ajdar Mosque is a typical 19th-century mosque in the area. The main hall is used for winter prayers and is heated by stoves. The adjacent shaded area is used for summer prayers.



After the tour, we took a tourist vehicle back to the north gate.

Collapse Read »

[Jialing River Muslims] the Declining Ancient Town of Yankou

Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces [Jialing River Muslims] the Declining Ancient Town of Yankou. Wusheng Yankou Ancient Town is located on the banks of the Jialing River between Nanchong and Chongqing, and is an important Hui settlement along the Jialing River. It is useful for readers interested in Jialing River, Muslim Travel, Ancient Town.

Wusheng Yankou Ancient Town is located on the banks of the Jialing River between Nanchong and Chongqing, and is an important Hui settlement along the Jialing River.

Huguang filled Sichuan" in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, a Hui Muslim family surnamed Ma from Shaoyang, Hunan, was the first to settle in Wusheng during the Shunzhi period. During the Yongzheng period, Hui Muslims surnamed Huang from Changde, Hunan, also came to Wusheng. These were the two main Hui families in Wusheng.

The Hui Muslims of Wusheng first settled and farmed in Guba Village in the northern suburbs. During the Kangxi and Qianlong periods, with the commercial development of Yankou Town, most of the Hui Muslims of Wusheng moved to Yankou Town to make a living by opening halal beef restaurants, slaughtering cattle, and engaging in various industries and commerce.

The ancient pier at the entrance of Yankou Town, which was once an important transportation hub on the Jialing River.



Guoshi Street, the main street of Yankou Town, where time seems to have frozen.









Various stone steps in Yankou Town. Yankou Town preserves a large number of bluestone steps, which are important historical witnesses.









Majiya Mosque

After the Hui Muslims settled in Wusheng in the early Qing Dynasty, they built a mosque in their initial settlement, Guba Village. After the Hui Muslims of Wusheng concentrated in Yankou Town in the mid-Qing Dynasty, the Ma family funded the purchase of a mansion built by the Muslim Zhang family in 1778 (the 43rd year of Qianlong's reign). It was converted into a mosque in 1819 (the 24th year of Jiaqing's reign) and took its current form after renovations in 1828 (the 8th year of Daoguang's reign).

The architecture of Majiya Mosque is very distinctive. The entire mosque is built against the mountain and is surrounded by a main hall, north and south wing rooms, a scripture hall, and a water room, enclosing five courtyards. The courtyards are filled with green plants. Facing the main hall is a 10-meter-high archway with a plaque inscribed with "Mosque." It appears to be the mountain gate, but the gate is actually a cliff, and it can only be seen from the opposite mountainside. The real main entrance is on the south side, connected to Banbian Street by an ancient stone staircase.



















The main hall of Majiya Mosque is 10 meters deep. The mihrab features Arabic calligraphy in a brush style, which is very rare.







A survey map of Majiya Mosque.









Several stone steles are preserved in the mosque, including the contract for the Ma family's purchase of the house from the Zhang family and the construction of the mosque in the 24th year of Jiaqing's reign, the stone sand rice from the Ma family's tomb from the 9th year of Xianfeng unearthed during urban construction, and a stele commemorating the Ma family's donation in the 13th year of Guangxu's reign.

















The current imam of Majiya Mosque is Imam Ma Wuxing, who was invited from Xichang in 2018. Imam Ma warmly received us, explained the history of the mosque, and took us on a tour of the ancient town. Banbian Street in front of Majiya Mosque was once mostly inhabited by Hui Muslims, who ran various shops here. After the decline of Jialing River shipping, the ancient town also declined. After the elderly Hui Muslims living on Banbian Street passed away, their properties became mosque property because their children were unwilling to live in the ancient town or had no children.









The former cinema, those two stone holes were the ticket windows.







Huangjia Mosque

Imam Ma took us to another abandoned mosque in Yankou Town, Huangjia Mosque. After Majiya Mosque opened in 1819, the Huang family Hui Muslims also prayed at Majiya Mosque. In 1893, the Huang family Hui Muslims relocated the mosque in Guba Village, northern suburbs, to Shengli Street, not far north of Majiya Mosque. It was subsequently called Huangjia Mosque. Huangjia Mosque is also built against the mountain, with a main hall, north and south side halls, and a mountain gate forming a courtyard. According to Imam Ma, Huangjia Mosque was actually not used after its completion, and the Huang family continued to pray at Majiya Mosque.

In 1946, Imam Huang Xianjian of Nanchong Mosque established Wusheng Ethnic Primary School at Huangjia Mosque, and it was used as school buildings for a long time thereafter. After the ethnic primary school moved, Huangjia Mosque gradually fell into disrepair. Now the north side hall has collapsed, and the main hall has also partially collapsed.























The inscription from the 19th year of Guangxu can be clearly seen.

Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces [Jialing River Muslims] the Declining Ancient Town of Yankou. Wusheng Yankou Ancient Town is located on the banks of the Jialing River between Nanchong and Chongqing, and is an important Hui settlement along the Jialing River. It is useful for readers interested in Jialing River, Muslim Travel, Ancient Town.

Wusheng Yankou Ancient Town is located on the banks of the Jialing River between Nanchong and Chongqing, and is an important Hui settlement along the Jialing River.

Huguang filled Sichuan" in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, a Hui Muslim family surnamed Ma from Shaoyang, Hunan, was the first to settle in Wusheng during the Shunzhi period. During the Yongzheng period, Hui Muslims surnamed Huang from Changde, Hunan, also came to Wusheng. These were the two main Hui families in Wusheng.

The Hui Muslims of Wusheng first settled and farmed in Guba Village in the northern suburbs. During the Kangxi and Qianlong periods, with the commercial development of Yankou Town, most of the Hui Muslims of Wusheng moved to Yankou Town to make a living by opening halal beef restaurants, slaughtering cattle, and engaging in various industries and commerce.

The ancient pier at the entrance of Yankou Town, which was once an important transportation hub on the Jialing River.



Guoshi Street, the main street of Yankou Town, where time seems to have frozen.









Various stone steps in Yankou Town. Yankou Town preserves a large number of bluestone steps, which are important historical witnesses.









Majiya Mosque

After the Hui Muslims settled in Wusheng in the early Qing Dynasty, they built a mosque in their initial settlement, Guba Village. After the Hui Muslims of Wusheng concentrated in Yankou Town in the mid-Qing Dynasty, the Ma family funded the purchase of a mansion built by the Muslim Zhang family in 1778 (the 43rd year of Qianlong's reign). It was converted into a mosque in 1819 (the 24th year of Jiaqing's reign) and took its current form after renovations in 1828 (the 8th year of Daoguang's reign).

The architecture of Majiya Mosque is very distinctive. The entire mosque is built against the mountain and is surrounded by a main hall, north and south wing rooms, a scripture hall, and a water room, enclosing five courtyards. The courtyards are filled with green plants. Facing the main hall is a 10-meter-high archway with a plaque inscribed with "Mosque." It appears to be the mountain gate, but the gate is actually a cliff, and it can only be seen from the opposite mountainside. The real main entrance is on the south side, connected to Banbian Street by an ancient stone staircase.



















The main hall of Majiya Mosque is 10 meters deep. The mihrab features Arabic calligraphy in a brush style, which is very rare.







A survey map of Majiya Mosque.









Several stone steles are preserved in the mosque, including the contract for the Ma family's purchase of the house from the Zhang family and the construction of the mosque in the 24th year of Jiaqing's reign, the stone sand rice from the Ma family's tomb from the 9th year of Xianfeng unearthed during urban construction, and a stele commemorating the Ma family's donation in the 13th year of Guangxu's reign.

















The current imam of Majiya Mosque is Imam Ma Wuxing, who was invited from Xichang in 2018. Imam Ma warmly received us, explained the history of the mosque, and took us on a tour of the ancient town. Banbian Street in front of Majiya Mosque was once mostly inhabited by Hui Muslims, who ran various shops here. After the decline of Jialing River shipping, the ancient town also declined. After the elderly Hui Muslims living on Banbian Street passed away, their properties became mosque property because their children were unwilling to live in the ancient town or had no children.









The former cinema, those two stone holes were the ticket windows.







Huangjia Mosque

Imam Ma took us to another abandoned mosque in Yankou Town, Huangjia Mosque. After Majiya Mosque opened in 1819, the Huang family Hui Muslims also prayed at Majiya Mosque. In 1893, the Huang family Hui Muslims relocated the mosque in Guba Village, northern suburbs, to Shengli Street, not far north of Majiya Mosque. It was subsequently called Huangjia Mosque. Huangjia Mosque is also built against the mountain, with a main hall, north and south side halls, and a mountain gate forming a courtyard. According to Imam Ma, Huangjia Mosque was actually not used after its completion, and the Huang family continued to pray at Majiya Mosque.

In 1946, Imam Huang Xianjian of Nanchong Mosque established Wusheng Ethnic Primary School at Huangjia Mosque, and it was used as school buildings for a long time thereafter. After the ethnic primary school moved, Huangjia Mosque gradually fell into disrepair. Now the north side hall has collapsed, and the main hall has also partially collapsed.























The inscription from the 19th year of Guangxu can be clearly seen.

Collapse Read »

Beautiful Traditional Javanese Mosque

Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces Beautiful Traditional Javanese Mosque. Between the 15th and 16th centuries, Islam became the dominant religion on the islands of Sumatra and Java through the efforts of Sufi Muslim missionaries, settled Muslim merchants, and Sultan rulers. It is useful for readers interested in Java Mosques, Muslim Travel, Islamic Heritage.

Between the 15th and 16th centuries, Islam became the dominant religion on the islands of Sumatra and Java through the efforts of Sufi Muslim missionaries, settled Muslim merchants, and Sultan rulers. In the process of converting from Buddhism, Hinduism, and traditional animism to Islam, the original traditional cultures and Islamic cultures mutually accommodated and merged, forming an "Indonesian traditional Islamic culture" that includes music, dance, clothing, architecture, and etiquette.

For tourists who want to understand Indonesian traditional Islamic culture, traditional mosque architecture is the most accessible channel. During the Qingming and May Day holidays in 2019, I visited several traditional mosque buildings on the island of Java, hoping to share these buildings to let everyone appreciate the charm of Indonesian traditional Islamic culture.

Existing Indonesian traditional mosques can be roughly divided into three styles: Javanese, Banjarese, and Minangkabau. The Javanese style, popular from the 15th to 18th centuries, is characterized by its multi-layered Tajug pyramid-shaped roof, Serambi front porch, and Bedug drum used for the call to prayer. Most traditional mosques in Indonesia are of the Javanese style. The Banjarese style in southern Borneo and the Minangkabau style in western Sumatra developed from the Javanese style, but their roofs have steeper slopes than the Javanese style. The Banjarese style does not have a front porch, and the mihrab is a separate building.

After the 19th century, Dutch colonizers introduced the "Moorish Revival" (also known as "Indo-Saracenic") architectural style, prevalent in European colonial regions of Southeast Asia, to Indonesia. Many traditional mosques were renovated and rebuilt in the 19th century, adding Indian mosque domes, pointed arches, and vertical minarets.

Here are some Javanese traditional mosques I visited:

I. Demak Great Mosque: 1466

II. Kudus Al-Aqsha Mosque: 1549

III. Banten Great Mosque: 1566

IV. Mataram Great Mosque: 1575

V. Surakarta Great Mosque: 1768

VI. Yogyakarta Great Mosque: 1773



Demak Great Mosque: 1466



Kudus Al-Aqsha Mosque: 1549



Banten Great Mosque: 1566



Mataram Great Mosque: 1575



Surakarta Great Mosque: 1768



Yogyakarta Great Mosque: 1773

I. Traditional Gates

The gates of early Javanese traditional mosques directly inherited from the Buddhist/Hindu architecture of the Majapahit era, with Candi Bentar and Kori Agung being the most distinctive types.

Candi was originally a type of Hindu/Buddhist mosque architecture on Java, Bali, and Lombok. Candi Bentar means "split Candi," where a Candi is split symmetrically down the middle, with a road laid out in between. In fact, Candi Bentar does not have doors installed in the middle; it serves as a passage from the secular space to the sacred space, creating a sense of solemnity before entering the main building.

The Candi Bentar gates of Javanese traditional mosques are built with tiered red bricks in the Majapahit style. The Al-Aqsha Mosque in Kudus and the Panjunan Mosque in Cirebon are the most famous. I visited the Al-Aqsha Mosque in Kudus, built in 1549, this time.









The Kori Agung gate is also called the Paduraksa gate in Hindu/Buddhist architecture and is the main gate for entering the sacred space from the secular space. The Kori Agung gate originated from the ancient Indian Gopuram gate and was widely used in ancient Javanese Hindu/Buddhist temples after the 8th to 9th centuries. After the 15th century, it was adopted by mosques, palaces, and cemeteries of the Islamic Sultanate, but without the elaborate decorations of Hindu/Buddhist architecture.

The Kori Agung in Javanese traditional mosques is actually a tiered Candi building in the Majapahit style, made of red bricks, with intricately patterned wooden doors. The Al-Aqsha Mosque in Kudus, built in 1549, and the Mataram Great Mosque in Yogyakarta, built in 1575, which I visited this time, both have Kori Agung.













II. Main Hall Roofs

The pyramid-shaped multi-layered roof of Javanese traditional mosques is called Tajug, which is very similar to the Hindu pagodas in Bali. This architectural structure originated from Indian and Chinese cultures and existed before the arrival of Islam in Java, resulting from the integration of Indonesian indigenous culture and Islamic culture.

Tajug roofs generally have two to five layers and can be connected to the base or separated. When separated, the lower layer serves as the prayer hall, and the upper layer is used as a classroom. The decoration at the very top of the roof is called Mustoko or Memolo. The most traditional Mustoko is made of clay. Some have been replaced with metal during recent restorations. After the 19th century, some Mustoko were also replaced with Indian-style domes.









III. Main Hall Pillars

The main halls of Javanese traditional mosques do not bear weight on walls but are supported by four pillars connected to the highest roof layer. These four pillars are called Soko Guru. Each pillar is connected to the foundation by a stone base called Umpak. These bases prevent the wooden pillars from absorbing groundwater and also act as shock absorbers during earthquakes.











IV. Main Hall Interior

North of the mihrab niche in the main hall is the Minbar, a pulpit for preaching, which is in the style of a traditional Javanese carved wooden throne.















Some important mosques also have a structure called Kholwat or Maksuroh south of the mihrab, which is a place for important figures such as the Sultan or the Grand Imam to pray. Ordinary people are not allowed to enter.





V. Front Porch

The front porch, Serambi, is located in front of the main hall and is integrated with it. The front porch is mainly used for shade and rain protection. People also pray in the front porch during Friday congregational prayers.



















VI. Call to Prayer Drum and Minaret

Early Javanese traditional mosques had almost no minarets; instead, the Bedug drum in the front porch was beaten to serve as a call to prayer. Today, in Javanese traditional mosques, the Bedug drum is still beaten every Friday and during Ramadan to call for prayer and to break the fast.













In the 16th century, the only Javanese traditional mosque with a minaret was the Al-Aqsha Mosque in Kudus, built in 1549. This tower is not in the Persian pointed-arch style at all but is a Javanese traditional Majapahit-style tower. The Bedug drum used for the call to prayer is placed at the top of the tower. Today, a similar style of drum tower, Bale kulkul, still exists in Bali, used to signal attacks, fires, or public events.



By the 17th century, the Banten Great Mosque in western Java had a minaret designed and built in 1632 by a Chinese person named Cek-ban-cut. This minaret is still not a Persian pointed-arch style but is a unique type that combines Mughal style with the local Javanese Hindu/Buddhist Candi architectural style.

Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces Beautiful Traditional Javanese Mosque. Between the 15th and 16th centuries, Islam became the dominant religion on the islands of Sumatra and Java through the efforts of Sufi Muslim missionaries, settled Muslim merchants, and Sultan rulers. It is useful for readers interested in Java Mosques, Muslim Travel, Islamic Heritage.

Between the 15th and 16th centuries, Islam became the dominant religion on the islands of Sumatra and Java through the efforts of Sufi Muslim missionaries, settled Muslim merchants, and Sultan rulers. In the process of converting from Buddhism, Hinduism, and traditional animism to Islam, the original traditional cultures and Islamic cultures mutually accommodated and merged, forming an "Indonesian traditional Islamic culture" that includes music, dance, clothing, architecture, and etiquette.

For tourists who want to understand Indonesian traditional Islamic culture, traditional mosque architecture is the most accessible channel. During the Qingming and May Day holidays in 2019, I visited several traditional mosque buildings on the island of Java, hoping to share these buildings to let everyone appreciate the charm of Indonesian traditional Islamic culture.

Existing Indonesian traditional mosques can be roughly divided into three styles: Javanese, Banjarese, and Minangkabau. The Javanese style, popular from the 15th to 18th centuries, is characterized by its multi-layered Tajug pyramid-shaped roof, Serambi front porch, and Bedug drum used for the call to prayer. Most traditional mosques in Indonesia are of the Javanese style. The Banjarese style in southern Borneo and the Minangkabau style in western Sumatra developed from the Javanese style, but their roofs have steeper slopes than the Javanese style. The Banjarese style does not have a front porch, and the mihrab is a separate building.

After the 19th century, Dutch colonizers introduced the "Moorish Revival" (also known as "Indo-Saracenic") architectural style, prevalent in European colonial regions of Southeast Asia, to Indonesia. Many traditional mosques were renovated and rebuilt in the 19th century, adding Indian mosque domes, pointed arches, and vertical minarets.

Here are some Javanese traditional mosques I visited:

I. Demak Great Mosque: 1466

II. Kudus Al-Aqsha Mosque: 1549

III. Banten Great Mosque: 1566

IV. Mataram Great Mosque: 1575

V. Surakarta Great Mosque: 1768

VI. Yogyakarta Great Mosque: 1773



Demak Great Mosque: 1466



Kudus Al-Aqsha Mosque: 1549



Banten Great Mosque: 1566



Mataram Great Mosque: 1575



Surakarta Great Mosque: 1768



Yogyakarta Great Mosque: 1773

I. Traditional Gates

The gates of early Javanese traditional mosques directly inherited from the Buddhist/Hindu architecture of the Majapahit era, with Candi Bentar and Kori Agung being the most distinctive types.

Candi was originally a type of Hindu/Buddhist mosque architecture on Java, Bali, and Lombok. Candi Bentar means "split Candi," where a Candi is split symmetrically down the middle, with a road laid out in between. In fact, Candi Bentar does not have doors installed in the middle; it serves as a passage from the secular space to the sacred space, creating a sense of solemnity before entering the main building.

The Candi Bentar gates of Javanese traditional mosques are built with tiered red bricks in the Majapahit style. The Al-Aqsha Mosque in Kudus and the Panjunan Mosque in Cirebon are the most famous. I visited the Al-Aqsha Mosque in Kudus, built in 1549, this time.









The Kori Agung gate is also called the Paduraksa gate in Hindu/Buddhist architecture and is the main gate for entering the sacred space from the secular space. The Kori Agung gate originated from the ancient Indian Gopuram gate and was widely used in ancient Javanese Hindu/Buddhist temples after the 8th to 9th centuries. After the 15th century, it was adopted by mosques, palaces, and cemeteries of the Islamic Sultanate, but without the elaborate decorations of Hindu/Buddhist architecture.

The Kori Agung in Javanese traditional mosques is actually a tiered Candi building in the Majapahit style, made of red bricks, with intricately patterned wooden doors. The Al-Aqsha Mosque in Kudus, built in 1549, and the Mataram Great Mosque in Yogyakarta, built in 1575, which I visited this time, both have Kori Agung.













II. Main Hall Roofs

The pyramid-shaped multi-layered roof of Javanese traditional mosques is called Tajug, which is very similar to the Hindu pagodas in Bali. This architectural structure originated from Indian and Chinese cultures and existed before the arrival of Islam in Java, resulting from the integration of Indonesian indigenous culture and Islamic culture.

Tajug roofs generally have two to five layers and can be connected to the base or separated. When separated, the lower layer serves as the prayer hall, and the upper layer is used as a classroom. The decoration at the very top of the roof is called Mustoko or Memolo. The most traditional Mustoko is made of clay. Some have been replaced with metal during recent restorations. After the 19th century, some Mustoko were also replaced with Indian-style domes.









III. Main Hall Pillars

The main halls of Javanese traditional mosques do not bear weight on walls but are supported by four pillars connected to the highest roof layer. These four pillars are called Soko Guru. Each pillar is connected to the foundation by a stone base called Umpak. These bases prevent the wooden pillars from absorbing groundwater and also act as shock absorbers during earthquakes.











IV. Main Hall Interior

North of the mihrab niche in the main hall is the Minbar, a pulpit for preaching, which is in the style of a traditional Javanese carved wooden throne.















Some important mosques also have a structure called Kholwat or Maksuroh south of the mihrab, which is a place for important figures such as the Sultan or the Grand Imam to pray. Ordinary people are not allowed to enter.





V. Front Porch

The front porch, Serambi, is located in front of the main hall and is integrated with it. The front porch is mainly used for shade and rain protection. People also pray in the front porch during Friday congregational prayers.



















VI. Call to Prayer Drum and Minaret

Early Javanese traditional mosques had almost no minarets; instead, the Bedug drum in the front porch was beaten to serve as a call to prayer. Today, in Javanese traditional mosques, the Bedug drum is still beaten every Friday and during Ramadan to call for prayer and to break the fast.













In the 16th century, the only Javanese traditional mosque with a minaret was the Al-Aqsha Mosque in Kudus, built in 1549. This tower is not in the Persian pointed-arch style at all but is a Javanese traditional Majapahit-style tower. The Bedug drum used for the call to prayer is placed at the top of the tower. Today, a similar style of drum tower, Bale kulkul, still exists in Bali, used to signal attacks, fires, or public events.



By the 17th century, the Banten Great Mosque in western Java had a minaret designed and built in 1632 by a Chinese person named Cek-ban-cut. This minaret is still not a Persian pointed-arch style but is a unique type that combines Mughal style with the local Javanese Hindu/Buddhist Candi architectural style.

Collapse Read »

[Halal Travel] Datong City in May

Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces [Halal Travel] Datong City in May. Took the high-speed train from Beijing to Datong in the morning. After getting off, I headed straight to the famous Fuxingzhai Shaomai on Jiaochang Street for lunch, ordering shaomai, Mongolian salty milk tea, a bowl of. It is useful for readers interested in Datong Travel, China Mosques, Muslim Travel.

Took the high-speed train from Beijing to Datong in the morning. After getting off, I headed straight to the famous Fuxingzhai Shaomai on Jiaochang Street for lunch, ordering shaomai, Mongolian salty milk tea, a bowl of egg soup, and guoyourou (oil-fried meat). Their shaomai is truly delicious, and it goes great with the milk tea. Unlike the 'white sauce guoyourou' in central and southern Shanxi, the guoyourou in the Datong area is thickened with a soy sauce-based 'red sauce'. The guoyourou in Xinjiang was actually introduced there by Shanxi merchants during the Qing Dynasty. According to a stele inscription from the Guangxu era at the Datong Mosque, many Hui people from Datong were engaged in trade in Tacheng, Xinjiang at that time, and the 'Ma Bairentang' was a traditional Chinese medicine shop opened by Datong Hui people in Tacheng.



















There are many halal shops on Jiaochang Street in Datong. I bought hemp seeds and beef jerky from Jining, Inner Mongolia at Xiao Ma Dried Fruit, and traditional mooncakes at Linxinzhai. This was my first time eating hemp seeds. I looked them up and found they are common in Shaanxi, Gansu, Shanxi, and Hebei. Once roasted, they are perfect for snacking while chatting or watching TV. Linxinzhai is a time-honored halal brand in Datong that opened in the 1970s. They sell Datong-style specialty cakes, old-fashioned mooncakes, and other traditional pastries, and there are always many customers. I also noticed many people buying chicken leg bread; it really brings back childhood memories. I haven't had one in at least 20 years.

















The 'History of Yuan, Annals of Emperor Taiding, Part 1' records that '(1324, the first year of the Taiding era of the Yuan Dynasty) in the Guihai year, mosques were built in Shangdu and Datong Road, with 40,000 ingots of paper currency allocated,' making the Datong Mosque one of only two recorded mosques built by imperial decree during the Yuan Dynasty. However, the Yuan Dynasty Datong Mosque was completely destroyed during the wars at the end of the Yuan Dynasty. The current mosque was rebuilt within the Datong city walls during the Yongle period of the Ming Dynasty. The main gate of the mosque was rebuilt in 1936 and has a typical Republican-era style. The minarets on both sides were newly built in 2010.







Inside the main gate are the ceremonial gate and the Shengxin Tower. The lower level of the Shengxin Tower is a hallway, and the upper level is an attic. According to the stele in the mosque, it was first built in 1522.













Behind the Shengxin Tower is the prayer hall. According to the stele in the mosque, the prayer hall was built in 1622 and renovated in 1692. The prayer hall consists of a porch, a front hall, a main hall, and a rear kiln hall, with exquisite Qing Dynasty paintings on the porch.

















Unfortunately, the prayer hall is only open during Jumu'ah prayers and is locked at other times, but you can see the exquisite Qing Dynasty carvings through the windows. Behind it is the very distinctive octagonal kiln hall roof, with wooden lattice windows, a circular pointed roof, a gilded treasure top, and yellow glazed tiles. It is the only mosque kiln hall in the country with this architectural style.











In the afternoon, I went to Xinmata Restaurant, a place where Datong Hui people often hold banquets. However, we didn't order banquet dishes, but instead chose two home-style dishes that are a bit 'too humble for a banquet' but taste absolutely amazing.

The first dish is called 'Commune Hospitality Meal,' which is actually stir-fried oat noodle nests with diced eggplant, diced potatoes, beef, mushrooms, green and red peppers, and shredded cucumber. It feels like having a meal like this during the commune era would really fill you up and satisfy your cravings!

The second dish is called braised vegetable with fried cake. It uses deep-fried yellow rice cakes braised with vermicelli, beef, wood ear mushrooms, bean sprouts, tofu, and green vegetables. Using deep-fried yellow rice cakes in stir-fries seems to be a specialty here in Datong, and many dishes can be made this way.

Finally, I tasted the Datong specialty suiyou cake, which is a deep-fried yellow rice cake with a filling of green and red shredded candied fruit, sesame, brown sugar, and suiyou (marrow oil). It is truly fragrant!

















In the evening, I went to the Beixin branch of the Deyuelou Restaurant. I feel like this is the most upscale halal restaurant for Datong cuisine. We ordered guo lamb with sea cucumber, apricot beef, and bean sprout soup. The guo lamb with sea cucumber feels like an upgraded version of guoyourou, using Ningxia Tan sheep meat and sea cucumber, and the texture is superb. The apricot beef is made by wrapping beef inside dried apricots, giving the beef a rich apricot aroma. Their selection of staple foods is also quite rich, with various oat noodles, buckwheat noodles, and bean noodles, but unfortunately, we were too full to eat any more.

















Yingze Street is a snack street in Datong with several halal restaurants. Most of the halal snacks here are only served in the morning, so it's best to come for breakfast.

We had vermicelli lamb offal at Lao Ku's. Vermicelli lamb offal is a Datong specialty, made by braising lamb offal in red chili oil with potatoes and fresh vermicelli. The taste is very different from the lamb offal in the east; it is much richer and heavier.

Then we went to Fengji Breakfast to have knife-cut noodles with dried tofu and beef balls, and drank some boiling tofu soup. Datong's knife-cut noodles are probably the most famous. We tried them, and they lived up to their reputation; the texture of the noodles is excellent. In Datong, it is customary to eat knife-cut noodles with various soy-braised and marinated products, which makes the flavor and texture very rich.

















Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces [Halal Travel] Datong City in May. Took the high-speed train from Beijing to Datong in the morning. After getting off, I headed straight to the famous Fuxingzhai Shaomai on Jiaochang Street for lunch, ordering shaomai, Mongolian salty milk tea, a bowl of. It is useful for readers interested in Datong Travel, China Mosques, Muslim Travel.

Took the high-speed train from Beijing to Datong in the morning. After getting off, I headed straight to the famous Fuxingzhai Shaomai on Jiaochang Street for lunch, ordering shaomai, Mongolian salty milk tea, a bowl of egg soup, and guoyourou (oil-fried meat). Their shaomai is truly delicious, and it goes great with the milk tea. Unlike the 'white sauce guoyourou' in central and southern Shanxi, the guoyourou in the Datong area is thickened with a soy sauce-based 'red sauce'. The guoyourou in Xinjiang was actually introduced there by Shanxi merchants during the Qing Dynasty. According to a stele inscription from the Guangxu era at the Datong Mosque, many Hui people from Datong were engaged in trade in Tacheng, Xinjiang at that time, and the 'Ma Bairentang' was a traditional Chinese medicine shop opened by Datong Hui people in Tacheng.



















There are many halal shops on Jiaochang Street in Datong. I bought hemp seeds and beef jerky from Jining, Inner Mongolia at Xiao Ma Dried Fruit, and traditional mooncakes at Linxinzhai. This was my first time eating hemp seeds. I looked them up and found they are common in Shaanxi, Gansu, Shanxi, and Hebei. Once roasted, they are perfect for snacking while chatting or watching TV. Linxinzhai is a time-honored halal brand in Datong that opened in the 1970s. They sell Datong-style specialty cakes, old-fashioned mooncakes, and other traditional pastries, and there are always many customers. I also noticed many people buying chicken leg bread; it really brings back childhood memories. I haven't had one in at least 20 years.

















The 'History of Yuan, Annals of Emperor Taiding, Part 1' records that '(1324, the first year of the Taiding era of the Yuan Dynasty) in the Guihai year, mosques were built in Shangdu and Datong Road, with 40,000 ingots of paper currency allocated,' making the Datong Mosque one of only two recorded mosques built by imperial decree during the Yuan Dynasty. However, the Yuan Dynasty Datong Mosque was completely destroyed during the wars at the end of the Yuan Dynasty. The current mosque was rebuilt within the Datong city walls during the Yongle period of the Ming Dynasty. The main gate of the mosque was rebuilt in 1936 and has a typical Republican-era style. The minarets on both sides were newly built in 2010.







Inside the main gate are the ceremonial gate and the Shengxin Tower. The lower level of the Shengxin Tower is a hallway, and the upper level is an attic. According to the stele in the mosque, it was first built in 1522.













Behind the Shengxin Tower is the prayer hall. According to the stele in the mosque, the prayer hall was built in 1622 and renovated in 1692. The prayer hall consists of a porch, a front hall, a main hall, and a rear kiln hall, with exquisite Qing Dynasty paintings on the porch.

















Unfortunately, the prayer hall is only open during Jumu'ah prayers and is locked at other times, but you can see the exquisite Qing Dynasty carvings through the windows. Behind it is the very distinctive octagonal kiln hall roof, with wooden lattice windows, a circular pointed roof, a gilded treasure top, and yellow glazed tiles. It is the only mosque kiln hall in the country with this architectural style.











In the afternoon, I went to Xinmata Restaurant, a place where Datong Hui people often hold banquets. However, we didn't order banquet dishes, but instead chose two home-style dishes that are a bit 'too humble for a banquet' but taste absolutely amazing.

The first dish is called 'Commune Hospitality Meal,' which is actually stir-fried oat noodle nests with diced eggplant, diced potatoes, beef, mushrooms, green and red peppers, and shredded cucumber. It feels like having a meal like this during the commune era would really fill you up and satisfy your cravings!

The second dish is called braised vegetable with fried cake. It uses deep-fried yellow rice cakes braised with vermicelli, beef, wood ear mushrooms, bean sprouts, tofu, and green vegetables. Using deep-fried yellow rice cakes in stir-fries seems to be a specialty here in Datong, and many dishes can be made this way.

Finally, I tasted the Datong specialty suiyou cake, which is a deep-fried yellow rice cake with a filling of green and red shredded candied fruit, sesame, brown sugar, and suiyou (marrow oil). It is truly fragrant!

















In the evening, I went to the Beixin branch of the Deyuelou Restaurant. I feel like this is the most upscale halal restaurant for Datong cuisine. We ordered guo lamb with sea cucumber, apricot beef, and bean sprout soup. The guo lamb with sea cucumber feels like an upgraded version of guoyourou, using Ningxia Tan sheep meat and sea cucumber, and the texture is superb. The apricot beef is made by wrapping beef inside dried apricots, giving the beef a rich apricot aroma. Their selection of staple foods is also quite rich, with various oat noodles, buckwheat noodles, and bean noodles, but unfortunately, we were too full to eat any more.

















Yingze Street is a snack street in Datong with several halal restaurants. Most of the halal snacks here are only served in the morning, so it's best to come for breakfast.

We had vermicelli lamb offal at Lao Ku's. Vermicelli lamb offal is a Datong specialty, made by braising lamb offal in red chili oil with potatoes and fresh vermicelli. The taste is very different from the lamb offal in the east; it is much richer and heavier.

Then we went to Fengji Breakfast to have knife-cut noodles with dried tofu and beef balls, and drank some boiling tofu soup. Datong's knife-cut noodles are probably the most famous. We tried them, and they lived up to their reputation; the texture of the noodles is excellent. In Datong, it is customary to eat knife-cut noodles with various soy-braised and marinated products, which makes the flavor and texture very rich.

















Collapse Read »

Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art

Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art. The museum was founded in 1914, initially as an Islamic Foundation Museum (Vakıf-ı İslamiye Museum) within the Süleymaniye complex. It is useful for readers interested in Turkey Travel, Islamic Art, Museum Visit.

The museum was founded in 1914, initially as an Islamic Foundation Museum (Vakıf-ı İslamiye Museum) within the Süleymaniye complex. After the establishment of the Republic of Turkey in 1923, it was renamed the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts, and its exhibits shifted from Ottoman imperial culture to showcasing the culture and art of the Islamic world across various periods. In 1983, the museum moved to its current location, the Ibrahim Pasha Palace, and currently houses over 40,000 artifacts, including Islamic calligraphy, tiles, carpets, and other works of art.





Table of Contents

I. The Era of the Prophet

II. The Umayyad Caliphate: 661-750

III. The Abbasid Caliphate: 750-1258

IV. Artifacts from Konya, Capital of the Seljuk Sultanate of Rum

V. Ceramics of the Seljuk Empire: 1040-1157

VI. The Ayyubid Dynasty: 1171-1250

VII. The Mamluk Sultanate: 1250-1517

VIII. The Ilkhanate: 1256-1353

IX. The Timurid Empire: 1370-1507

X. The Safavid Dynasty: 1501-1722

XI. The Ottoman Dynasty: 1299-1923

I. The Era of the Prophet

The beard of the Prophet Muhammad (Lihye-i Saadet) and his footprint (Kadem-i Saadat).





II. The Umayyad Caliphate: 661-750

The Umayyad Caliphate was the first hereditary dynasty of the Arab Empire. It was established in 661 by Muawiyah, the former governor of Syria, after the era of the four Rightly Guided Caliphs ended. In Chinese historical records, it is known as the 'White-Robed Caliphate'.

A Quran manuscript from the early 8th century



A 7th-century stone inscription in Kufic Arabic calligraphy







III. The Abbasid Caliphate: 750-1258

In 750, the descendants of Abbas, the uncle of the Prophet Muhammad, overthrew the Umayyad family and established the Abbasid Caliphate. In Chinese historical records, it is known as the 'Black-Robed Caliphate'. In 762, the Abbasid Caliphate moved its capital to Baghdad. The early period of the Abbasid Caliphate (750-842) was the peak of the Arab Empire, and its major cultural and artistic achievements continued until the mid-10th century.

Although the capital of the Abbasid Caliphate was in Baghdad, its monuments stretched from Kairouan in Tunisia to the west, to the ancient Central Asian city of Bukhara to the east. Many cities founded by the Abbasid Caliphate saw further development later on. In the early Abbasid period, the hypostyle mosque with a flat roof, inherited from the residence of the Prophet Muhammad in Medina, was further developed. Artisans from Persia introduced the Sassanid four-iwan courtyard and the iwan (vaulted hall) into Abbasid architecture. In the late 8th century, with the influx of Khorasanians and the introduction of Sassanid court etiquette into the Abbasid court, the influence of Persian culture expanded further within the Abbasid Caliphate.

A tombstone from 859



A 9th-century marble carving



Fragments of a 9th-century mural



A 10th-century Quran



9th-century column capitals and paving fragments excavated from Samarra.

Samarra is located 125 kilometers northwest of Baghdad. It became the capital of the Abbasid Caliphate in 836 until the capital was moved back to Baghdad in 892. Because Samarra was abandoned after the 10th century and the population returned to Baghdad, a large number of ruins were left behind. It is hailed as the only metropolis of the late ancient world that can be fully excavated, and it was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2007.

The Abbasid Caliphate built several palaces, barracks, markets, two grand mosques, and countless gardens and private residences in Samarra. The Great Mosque of Samarra was enormous, measuring 240 by 156 meters, and featured a hypostyle structure. Judging from the surviving mosaics and the wooden panels surrounding the mihrab, the decoration was once very magnificent. The Caliph's private residence was decorated with marble slabs, stucco sculptures, paintings, and gilded teak wood.





IV. Artifacts from Konya, Capital of the Seljuk Sultanate of Rum

The Seljuks were a branch of the Oghuz Turkic tribes. They established the Seljuk Empire in Khorasan in 1037, defeated the Byzantines in the 1070s to occupy Asia Minor, and established the Seljuk Sultanate of Rum in 1077. The rapid expansion of the Seljuk Empire caused panic among Christian nations, directly triggering the First Crusade. In 1097, after the capital Nicaea was captured by the Crusaders, the Sultanate of Rum moved its capital eastward to Konya.

In the early 13th century, after the Mongol invasion of Central Asia and Persia, a large number of Turks and Persians came to Konya for refuge. In the 1220s, Konya was filled with refugees from the Khwarezmid Empire. Many were educated intellectuals or skilled artisans, the most famous of whom was the Sufi scholar and great Persian poet Rumi. In 1243, the Seljuk Sultanate of Rum was defeated by the Mongol Empire and became a vassal state, but Konya remained the capital of the Sultanate. People lived in stability, and many existing Seljuk buildings were constructed during this period.

Stone lions in front of the Alâeddin Pavilion (Alâeddin Köşkü). The Alâeddin Pavilion is the only remaining tower site of the Konya city walls. Located on the north side of Alâeddin Hill, it was originally a brick tower of the inner city wall of Konya. The Seljuk Sultan of Rum, Kilij Arslan II (reigned 1156-1192), built a palace adjacent to the city wall and turned this tower into part of the palace.







The Alâeddin Pavilion I photographed.



Warrior stone carving. As the capital of the Seljuk Sultanate of Rum, Konya was the final 'Turko-Persian' cultural center of the Seljuks after the fall of the Seljuk Empire. Seljuk culture is a very distinctive branch of 'Turko-Persian' culture, most famous for its tiles and stone carvings featuring human and animal motifs.



Griffin stone carving. The griffin is a common theme in Iranian mythology, possessing the body of a lion and the beak and wings of an eagle, and is considered a symbol of power.



Sphinx. The sphinx has a human head and an animal body, originating from ancient Egypt and later spreading to Iran and the Anatolian region.







A 13th-century carpet from Konya. These carpets from the Seljuk Sultanate of Rum period are among the most important collections in the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts, and are the most unique and precious among Seljuk artifacts.











A 13th-century Quran calligraphy tile





An early 14th-century wooden window





A 1251 tabut (coffin) box and wooden stele







A 13th-century Quran



V. Ceramics of the Seljuk Empire: 1040-1157

12th-13th century, Iran







VI. The Ayyubid Dynasty: 1171-1250

The Ayyubid dynasty was established in 1171 by the Kurdish general Saladin. It was an important dynasty during the Crusades, with its capitals successively in Damascus and Cairo. In 1260, the Mongol army captured Damascus, and the Ayyubid dynasty existed in name only.

13th-century wood carving from Damascus.







12th-13th century ceramic bowl.



A 1205 Hajj certificate





VII. The Mamluk Sultanate: 1250-1517

The Mamluk Sultanate was a state that ruled Egypt, the Levant, and the Hejaz region from the 13th to the 16th century. Most Mamluks were Kipchak Turks from Central Asia. They were brought to Western Asia as slave mercenaries and became an important force in the military during the Ayyubid dynasty. In 1260, they overthrew the Ayyubid dynasty to rule Egypt and Syria, and subsequently prevented the invasion of the Ilkhanate. In 1517, the Mamluk Sultanate was destroyed by the Ottoman Empire.

A late 14th-century Quran manuscript (Juz').



A 1380 Quran manuscript.



A 14th-century ceramic vase.



A 1282 astrolabe.



VIII. The Ilkhanate: 1256-1353

In 1256, Hulagu, the grandson of Genghis Khan, was enfeoffed as the Ilkhan, establishing the Ilkhanate. In 1260, Kublai Khan sent an envoy to issue an edict, placing the lands west of the Amu Darya up to the Egyptian border, including present-day Iran and Afghanistan, under Ilkhan rule.

A 1333-4 Quran manuscript, copied by Muhammed el-Hac Devletshah esh-Shirazi.



A 1338-9 Quran manuscript, copied by Yahya el-Sufi.



A 1318 Quran manuscript, copied by Ahmed b. al-Suhreverdi.



A 1323-4 Quran manuscript, copied by Huseyin bin Ali bin Camii.



A 1320-21 Quran manuscript, copied by Argun bin Abdullah Kamili.



Two Quran manuscript volumes (Juz') copied by Ali ibn-i Mehmed in 1306-7 and 1310-11.





A 1286-87 Quran manuscript, copied by Yakut el-Musta'simi.



IX. The Timurid Empire: 1370-1507

The Timurid dynasty was established in Samarkand in 1370 by the Chagatai Mongol noble, Timur the Great. Timur began his western campaigns in 1380, successively occupying Afghanistan and Iran. After Timur's death in 1405, his successors continued to rule Iran, and the Timurid dynasty was deeply influenced by Persian culture.

Under the rule of the Timurid dynasty, the ancient Afghan city of Herat flourished. The Timurid prince Sultan Husayn Bayqara, who ruled Herat from 1469 to 1506, strongly supported the development of Persian poetry and literature. His minister, Mir Ali-Shir Nava'i, was a famous Persian poet. Herat at that time was also famous for its architecture, miniatures, and music. The ancient Iranian city of Shiraz also became a center of art and literature during this period, hailed as the 'House of Knowledge' and the 'Athens of Iran'. Shiraz's miniatures are also world-famous.

A 15th-century book from the city of Shiraz, Iran.





1445 and 1482 books of the 'Masnavi' from Herat, Afghanistan; this is a long poem collection by the famous Persian poet Rumi.





A 15th-century book from Herat, Afghanistan.



A 1398 book from Shiraz, Iran.



X. The Safavid Dynasty: 1501-1722

The Safavid dynasty originated from the Sufi Safaviyya order, and its rulers were Kurds living in northwestern Iran. The Safavid family itself spoke Turkic and composed poetry in Turkic, but they also strongly supported Persian poetry, literature, and various forms of Persian culture and art. For over 200 years, the Safavid dynasty ruled parts of Iran, the Caucasus, Iraq, Turkey, and Afghanistan. It is considered the first native Iranian dynasty since the Sassanid Persian Empire and is also considered the beginning of modern Iran.

An early 17th-century Kashkul, a bowl used by Sufi dervishes for begging. Sufi dervishes would generally chant praises to Allah and the Prophet along the streets, then use the Kashkul to collect donated money and food. The Kashkul actually used were mostly made of coconut shells, brass, wood, or clay. They were boat-shaped and hung from the shoulder with metal chains, with a relatively simple design. This is because true Sufi dervishes had abandoned the desire for worldly wealth and devoted themselves entirely to Allah. In addition, many beautifully crafted Kashkuls were used by the wealthy as decorative items, most of which have Quranic inscriptions.



A 17th-century Quran from Shiraz.

Delete



A 1591 Quran from Shiraz.



A 17th-century Quran volume (Juz') cover.



A 1549 Quran from Shiraz.



A 1580/1 Quran from Shiraz.





XI. The Ottoman Dynasty: 1299-1923

A late 15th-early 16th-century scripture box



14th-15th-century tiles











The book 'Zubdet'ut Tevarih (Faith, Islam, and Ottoman History)', produced in 1583 by the calligrapher Seyyid Lokman Ashuri for Sultan Murad III





A Quran written by the calligrapher Seyh Hamdullah in 1494



Chapter 6 of the Quran, 'The Cattle', written by the calligrapher Ahmed Karahisari in 1443



A Quran written by the calligrapher Hafiz Osman between 1540 and 1550



A 1612 endowment deed of Sultan Ahmed I



A 1738 Ottoman Qiblanuma (qibla compass), which is the most famous of all Ottoman qibla compasses.







An early 15th-century wooden door from the Karaman dynasty



Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art. The museum was founded in 1914, initially as an Islamic Foundation Museum (Vakıf-ı İslamiye Museum) within the Süleymaniye complex. It is useful for readers interested in Turkey Travel, Islamic Art, Museum Visit.

The museum was founded in 1914, initially as an Islamic Foundation Museum (Vakıf-ı İslamiye Museum) within the Süleymaniye complex. After the establishment of the Republic of Turkey in 1923, it was renamed the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts, and its exhibits shifted from Ottoman imperial culture to showcasing the culture and art of the Islamic world across various periods. In 1983, the museum moved to its current location, the Ibrahim Pasha Palace, and currently houses over 40,000 artifacts, including Islamic calligraphy, tiles, carpets, and other works of art.





Table of Contents

I. The Era of the Prophet

II. The Umayyad Caliphate: 661-750

III. The Abbasid Caliphate: 750-1258

IV. Artifacts from Konya, Capital of the Seljuk Sultanate of Rum

V. Ceramics of the Seljuk Empire: 1040-1157

VI. The Ayyubid Dynasty: 1171-1250

VII. The Mamluk Sultanate: 1250-1517

VIII. The Ilkhanate: 1256-1353

IX. The Timurid Empire: 1370-1507

X. The Safavid Dynasty: 1501-1722

XI. The Ottoman Dynasty: 1299-1923

I. The Era of the Prophet

The beard of the Prophet Muhammad (Lihye-i Saadet) and his footprint (Kadem-i Saadat).





II. The Umayyad Caliphate: 661-750

The Umayyad Caliphate was the first hereditary dynasty of the Arab Empire. It was established in 661 by Muawiyah, the former governor of Syria, after the era of the four Rightly Guided Caliphs ended. In Chinese historical records, it is known as the 'White-Robed Caliphate'.

A Quran manuscript from the early 8th century



A 7th-century stone inscription in Kufic Arabic calligraphy







III. The Abbasid Caliphate: 750-1258

In 750, the descendants of Abbas, the uncle of the Prophet Muhammad, overthrew the Umayyad family and established the Abbasid Caliphate. In Chinese historical records, it is known as the 'Black-Robed Caliphate'. In 762, the Abbasid Caliphate moved its capital to Baghdad. The early period of the Abbasid Caliphate (750-842) was the peak of the Arab Empire, and its major cultural and artistic achievements continued until the mid-10th century.

Although the capital of the Abbasid Caliphate was in Baghdad, its monuments stretched from Kairouan in Tunisia to the west, to the ancient Central Asian city of Bukhara to the east. Many cities founded by the Abbasid Caliphate saw further development later on. In the early Abbasid period, the hypostyle mosque with a flat roof, inherited from the residence of the Prophet Muhammad in Medina, was further developed. Artisans from Persia introduced the Sassanid four-iwan courtyard and the iwan (vaulted hall) into Abbasid architecture. In the late 8th century, with the influx of Khorasanians and the introduction of Sassanid court etiquette into the Abbasid court, the influence of Persian culture expanded further within the Abbasid Caliphate.

A tombstone from 859



A 9th-century marble carving



Fragments of a 9th-century mural



A 10th-century Quran



9th-century column capitals and paving fragments excavated from Samarra.

Samarra is located 125 kilometers northwest of Baghdad. It became the capital of the Abbasid Caliphate in 836 until the capital was moved back to Baghdad in 892. Because Samarra was abandoned after the 10th century and the population returned to Baghdad, a large number of ruins were left behind. It is hailed as the only metropolis of the late ancient world that can be fully excavated, and it was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2007.

The Abbasid Caliphate built several palaces, barracks, markets, two grand mosques, and countless gardens and private residences in Samarra. The Great Mosque of Samarra was enormous, measuring 240 by 156 meters, and featured a hypostyle structure. Judging from the surviving mosaics and the wooden panels surrounding the mihrab, the decoration was once very magnificent. The Caliph's private residence was decorated with marble slabs, stucco sculptures, paintings, and gilded teak wood.





IV. Artifacts from Konya, Capital of the Seljuk Sultanate of Rum

The Seljuks were a branch of the Oghuz Turkic tribes. They established the Seljuk Empire in Khorasan in 1037, defeated the Byzantines in the 1070s to occupy Asia Minor, and established the Seljuk Sultanate of Rum in 1077. The rapid expansion of the Seljuk Empire caused panic among Christian nations, directly triggering the First Crusade. In 1097, after the capital Nicaea was captured by the Crusaders, the Sultanate of Rum moved its capital eastward to Konya.

In the early 13th century, after the Mongol invasion of Central Asia and Persia, a large number of Turks and Persians came to Konya for refuge. In the 1220s, Konya was filled with refugees from the Khwarezmid Empire. Many were educated intellectuals or skilled artisans, the most famous of whom was the Sufi scholar and great Persian poet Rumi. In 1243, the Seljuk Sultanate of Rum was defeated by the Mongol Empire and became a vassal state, but Konya remained the capital of the Sultanate. People lived in stability, and many existing Seljuk buildings were constructed during this period.

Stone lions in front of the Alâeddin Pavilion (Alâeddin Köşkü). The Alâeddin Pavilion is the only remaining tower site of the Konya city walls. Located on the north side of Alâeddin Hill, it was originally a brick tower of the inner city wall of Konya. The Seljuk Sultan of Rum, Kilij Arslan II (reigned 1156-1192), built a palace adjacent to the city wall and turned this tower into part of the palace.







The Alâeddin Pavilion I photographed.



Warrior stone carving. As the capital of the Seljuk Sultanate of Rum, Konya was the final 'Turko-Persian' cultural center of the Seljuks after the fall of the Seljuk Empire. Seljuk culture is a very distinctive branch of 'Turko-Persian' culture, most famous for its tiles and stone carvings featuring human and animal motifs.



Griffin stone carving. The griffin is a common theme in Iranian mythology, possessing the body of a lion and the beak and wings of an eagle, and is considered a symbol of power.



Sphinx. The sphinx has a human head and an animal body, originating from ancient Egypt and later spreading to Iran and the Anatolian region.







A 13th-century carpet from Konya. These carpets from the Seljuk Sultanate of Rum period are among the most important collections in the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts, and are the most unique and precious among Seljuk artifacts.











A 13th-century Quran calligraphy tile





An early 14th-century wooden window





A 1251 tabut (coffin) box and wooden stele







A 13th-century Quran



V. Ceramics of the Seljuk Empire: 1040-1157

12th-13th century, Iran







VI. The Ayyubid Dynasty: 1171-1250

The Ayyubid dynasty was established in 1171 by the Kurdish general Saladin. It was an important dynasty during the Crusades, with its capitals successively in Damascus and Cairo. In 1260, the Mongol army captured Damascus, and the Ayyubid dynasty existed in name only.

13th-century wood carving from Damascus.







12th-13th century ceramic bowl.



A 1205 Hajj certificate





VII. The Mamluk Sultanate: 1250-1517

The Mamluk Sultanate was a state that ruled Egypt, the Levant, and the Hejaz region from the 13th to the 16th century. Most Mamluks were Kipchak Turks from Central Asia. They were brought to Western Asia as slave mercenaries and became an important force in the military during the Ayyubid dynasty. In 1260, they overthrew the Ayyubid dynasty to rule Egypt and Syria, and subsequently prevented the invasion of the Ilkhanate. In 1517, the Mamluk Sultanate was destroyed by the Ottoman Empire.

A late 14th-century Quran manuscript (Juz').



A 1380 Quran manuscript.



A 14th-century ceramic vase.



A 1282 astrolabe.



VIII. The Ilkhanate: 1256-1353

In 1256, Hulagu, the grandson of Genghis Khan, was enfeoffed as the Ilkhan, establishing the Ilkhanate. In 1260, Kublai Khan sent an envoy to issue an edict, placing the lands west of the Amu Darya up to the Egyptian border, including present-day Iran and Afghanistan, under Ilkhan rule.

A 1333-4 Quran manuscript, copied by Muhammed el-Hac Devletshah esh-Shirazi.



A 1338-9 Quran manuscript, copied by Yahya el-Sufi.



A 1318 Quran manuscript, copied by Ahmed b. al-Suhreverdi.



A 1323-4 Quran manuscript, copied by Huseyin bin Ali bin Camii.



A 1320-21 Quran manuscript, copied by Argun bin Abdullah Kamili.



Two Quran manuscript volumes (Juz') copied by Ali ibn-i Mehmed in 1306-7 and 1310-11.





A 1286-87 Quran manuscript, copied by Yakut el-Musta'simi.



IX. The Timurid Empire: 1370-1507

The Timurid dynasty was established in Samarkand in 1370 by the Chagatai Mongol noble, Timur the Great. Timur began his western campaigns in 1380, successively occupying Afghanistan and Iran. After Timur's death in 1405, his successors continued to rule Iran, and the Timurid dynasty was deeply influenced by Persian culture.

Under the rule of the Timurid dynasty, the ancient Afghan city of Herat flourished. The Timurid prince Sultan Husayn Bayqara, who ruled Herat from 1469 to 1506, strongly supported the development of Persian poetry and literature. His minister, Mir Ali-Shir Nava'i, was a famous Persian poet. Herat at that time was also famous for its architecture, miniatures, and music. The ancient Iranian city of Shiraz also became a center of art and literature during this period, hailed as the 'House of Knowledge' and the 'Athens of Iran'. Shiraz's miniatures are also world-famous.

A 15th-century book from the city of Shiraz, Iran.





1445 and 1482 books of the 'Masnavi' from Herat, Afghanistan; this is a long poem collection by the famous Persian poet Rumi.





A 15th-century book from Herat, Afghanistan.



A 1398 book from Shiraz, Iran.



X. The Safavid Dynasty: 1501-1722

The Safavid dynasty originated from the Sufi Safaviyya order, and its rulers were Kurds living in northwestern Iran. The Safavid family itself spoke Turkic and composed poetry in Turkic, but they also strongly supported Persian poetry, literature, and various forms of Persian culture and art. For over 200 years, the Safavid dynasty ruled parts of Iran, the Caucasus, Iraq, Turkey, and Afghanistan. It is considered the first native Iranian dynasty since the Sassanid Persian Empire and is also considered the beginning of modern Iran.

An early 17th-century Kashkul, a bowl used by Sufi dervishes for begging. Sufi dervishes would generally chant praises to Allah and the Prophet along the streets, then use the Kashkul to collect donated money and food. The Kashkul actually used were mostly made of coconut shells, brass, wood, or clay. They were boat-shaped and hung from the shoulder with metal chains, with a relatively simple design. This is because true Sufi dervishes had abandoned the desire for worldly wealth and devoted themselves entirely to Allah. In addition, many beautifully crafted Kashkuls were used by the wealthy as decorative items, most of which have Quranic inscriptions.



A 17th-century Quran from Shiraz.

Delete



A 1591 Quran from Shiraz.



A 17th-century Quran volume (Juz') cover.



A 1549 Quran from Shiraz.



A 1580/1 Quran from Shiraz.





XI. The Ottoman Dynasty: 1299-1923

A late 15th-early 16th-century scripture box



14th-15th-century tiles











The book 'Zubdet'ut Tevarih (Faith, Islam, and Ottoman History)', produced in 1583 by the calligrapher Seyyid Lokman Ashuri for Sultan Murad III





A Quran written by the calligrapher Seyh Hamdullah in 1494



Chapter 6 of the Quran, 'The Cattle', written by the calligrapher Ahmed Karahisari in 1443



A Quran written by the calligrapher Hafiz Osman between 1540 and 1550



A 1612 endowment deed of Sultan Ahmed I



A 1738 Ottoman Qiblanuma (qibla compass), which is the most famous of all Ottoman qibla compasses.







An early 15th-century wooden door from the Karaman dynasty



Collapse Read »

[Halal Travel] Shuhe Ancient Town Deep Along the Han River

Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces [Halal Travel] Shuhe Ancient Town Deep Along the Han River. Shuhe Ancient Town is the last town the Han River passes through before flowing from southern Shaanxi into Hubei. It is useful for readers interested in Shuhe Ancient Town, Muslim Travel, China Travel.

Shuhe Ancient Town is the last town the Han River passes through before flowing from southern Shaanxi into Hubei. Near the town, there is a very small train station, with only one K-series train arriving and departing each day. We arrived at Shuhe train station in the light morning rain. The station is built on a hillside with no flat ground around it. After leaving the station, there is only a path of steps leading to the Han River; once you go down, you reach the Han River ferry. Shuhe Town is a few kilometers downstream on the opposite bank of the Han River. The only way to get there from the station is by boat.



















Eating lamb saozimian and beef paomo on the streets of Shuhe Town. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, when Han River shipping was prosperous, Shuhe Ancient Town was an important commercial post. Merchants gathered and shops lined the streets. It was also during that time that Hui Muslims moved to Shuhe to settle, and there are still several hundred households today.













Shuhe Mosque is built on a steep cliff behind the ancient town, connected to the streets below by a hundred steps. The mosque was first built during the Jiajing period of the Ming Dynasty, expanded in 1915, severely damaged and occupied during the Cultural Revolution, and renovated again in 1994.

The current main entrance was added during the 1915 expansion, and the original main entrance has now become the back door.

Shuhe Mosque features a 'cat-arched back' fire-blocking wall, which is very unique among traditional Chinese mosques. Some traditional mosques in southern China are built with fire-blocking walls, each with its own regional characteristics, such as the 'wok-ear' walls of the Guilin Old Village Mosque and the 'horse-head' walls of the Jingjue Mosque in Nanjing. The 'cat-arched back' fire-blocking wall is a characteristic style of the Hunan region that extends into the Qinba mountain area. Currently, besides Shuhe Mosque, the only other traditional mosque I know of that has a 'cat-arched back' fire-blocking wall is the Jingziguan Mosque in Xichuan, Henan.

In addition, there are ink paintings and inscriptions on the brick carvings of the fire-blocking wall, which is also a very southern style.



















The mosque's courtyard is very small, with a stone-paved concave pool in the middle to collect rainwater from the eaves, which is very suitable for the rainy climate. Behind it are the north and south wing rooms and the main prayer hall. The main hall follows the traditional three-section structure of Chinese mosques: a front porch, a central hall, and a rear kiln-style hall.



















Most of the mosque's colorful paintings were destroyed during the Cultural Revolution, with only a portion preserved on the exterior of the rear kiln-style hall, where various traditional Chinese patterns can be seen. Additionally, there are ink paintings on the door frame of the main entrance. One of the mosque's beams bears an inscription from the renovation in the fourth year of the Republic of China (1915), and it still retains Arabic calligraphy from 100 years ago. The last photo shows the mosque right next to the cliff.



















Traces of the 1915 expansion of the Ming Dynasty main hall of the mosque.



After performing Jumu'ah prayer at the mosque, we happened to catch a Shuhe-style 'ten-bowl' banquet. Zaynab enjoyed it very much, and in the end, we were even given a lot of youxiang. The ten bowls include lotus root boxes (lotus root stuffed with lamb, coated in egg, fried, and then steamed), lamb meatballs (coated in egg, fried, and then steamed), braised beef, steamed flour-coated meat (lamb coated in flour and steamed with sweet potato chunks), steamed white meat (fatty meat near the lamb cartilage, steamed), chicken (stir-fried until half-cooked and then steamed), fish chunks (grass carp chunks coated in flour, fried, and then steamed), and three vegetable dishes. The dishes at a Hui banquet are different from ordinary home-cooked stir-fries because they usually have to serve many people. Most of the food is prepared half-cooked and then steamed in a large pot, which ensures both efficiency and that the food stays warm.

















The hotel we stayed in was converted from an old pawn shop.



The two relatively large halal restaurants in town.





Strolling around the ancient town in the evening.













The Shuhe River flowing into the Han River.





In the light rain of the early morning, we took the ferry from the pier to the train station, watching the Han River slowly wake up. Looking from afar, the Shuhe train station looks like a small white dot on the cliff. As the white dot becomes clearer, we know we are about to leave Shuhe.

















Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces [Halal Travel] Shuhe Ancient Town Deep Along the Han River. Shuhe Ancient Town is the last town the Han River passes through before flowing from southern Shaanxi into Hubei. It is useful for readers interested in Shuhe Ancient Town, Muslim Travel, China Travel.

Shuhe Ancient Town is the last town the Han River passes through before flowing from southern Shaanxi into Hubei. Near the town, there is a very small train station, with only one K-series train arriving and departing each day. We arrived at Shuhe train station in the light morning rain. The station is built on a hillside with no flat ground around it. After leaving the station, there is only a path of steps leading to the Han River; once you go down, you reach the Han River ferry. Shuhe Town is a few kilometers downstream on the opposite bank of the Han River. The only way to get there from the station is by boat.



















Eating lamb saozimian and beef paomo on the streets of Shuhe Town. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, when Han River shipping was prosperous, Shuhe Ancient Town was an important commercial post. Merchants gathered and shops lined the streets. It was also during that time that Hui Muslims moved to Shuhe to settle, and there are still several hundred households today.













Shuhe Mosque is built on a steep cliff behind the ancient town, connected to the streets below by a hundred steps. The mosque was first built during the Jiajing period of the Ming Dynasty, expanded in 1915, severely damaged and occupied during the Cultural Revolution, and renovated again in 1994.

The current main entrance was added during the 1915 expansion, and the original main entrance has now become the back door.

Shuhe Mosque features a 'cat-arched back' fire-blocking wall, which is very unique among traditional Chinese mosques. Some traditional mosques in southern China are built with fire-blocking walls, each with its own regional characteristics, such as the 'wok-ear' walls of the Guilin Old Village Mosque and the 'horse-head' walls of the Jingjue Mosque in Nanjing. The 'cat-arched back' fire-blocking wall is a characteristic style of the Hunan region that extends into the Qinba mountain area. Currently, besides Shuhe Mosque, the only other traditional mosque I know of that has a 'cat-arched back' fire-blocking wall is the Jingziguan Mosque in Xichuan, Henan.

In addition, there are ink paintings and inscriptions on the brick carvings of the fire-blocking wall, which is also a very southern style.



















The mosque's courtyard is very small, with a stone-paved concave pool in the middle to collect rainwater from the eaves, which is very suitable for the rainy climate. Behind it are the north and south wing rooms and the main prayer hall. The main hall follows the traditional three-section structure of Chinese mosques: a front porch, a central hall, and a rear kiln-style hall.



















Most of the mosque's colorful paintings were destroyed during the Cultural Revolution, with only a portion preserved on the exterior of the rear kiln-style hall, where various traditional Chinese patterns can be seen. Additionally, there are ink paintings on the door frame of the main entrance. One of the mosque's beams bears an inscription from the renovation in the fourth year of the Republic of China (1915), and it still retains Arabic calligraphy from 100 years ago. The last photo shows the mosque right next to the cliff.



















Traces of the 1915 expansion of the Ming Dynasty main hall of the mosque.



After performing Jumu'ah prayer at the mosque, we happened to catch a Shuhe-style 'ten-bowl' banquet. Zaynab enjoyed it very much, and in the end, we were even given a lot of youxiang. The ten bowls include lotus root boxes (lotus root stuffed with lamb, coated in egg, fried, and then steamed), lamb meatballs (coated in egg, fried, and then steamed), braised beef, steamed flour-coated meat (lamb coated in flour and steamed with sweet potato chunks), steamed white meat (fatty meat near the lamb cartilage, steamed), chicken (stir-fried until half-cooked and then steamed), fish chunks (grass carp chunks coated in flour, fried, and then steamed), and three vegetable dishes. The dishes at a Hui banquet are different from ordinary home-cooked stir-fries because they usually have to serve many people. Most of the food is prepared half-cooked and then steamed in a large pot, which ensures both efficiency and that the food stays warm.

















The hotel we stayed in was converted from an old pawn shop.



The two relatively large halal restaurants in town.





Strolling around the ancient town in the evening.













The Shuhe River flowing into the Han River.





In the light rain of the early morning, we took the ferry from the pier to the train station, watching the Han River slowly wake up. Looking from afar, the Shuhe train station looks like a small white dot on the cliff. As the white dot becomes clearer, we know we are about to leave Shuhe.

















Collapse Read »

Thirteen Traditional Mosques of the Tatar People in Kazan, Russia

Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces Thirteen Traditional Mosques of the Tatar People in Kazan, Russia. In 1552, Ivan the Terrible conquered the Khanate of Kazan, massacred most of the Tatars in the city of Kazan, and all mosques in the city were demolished. It is useful for readers interested in Kazan Mosques, Tatar Muslims, Islamic Heritage.

In 1552, Ivan the Terrible conquered the Khanate of Kazan, massacred most of the Tatars in the city of Kazan, and all mosques in the city were demolished. In 1556, Russia rebuilt the city of Kazan and settled 7,000 Russians in the city, while the remaining Tatars, besides being forced to convert to Christianity, were forcibly relocated to various settlements far from the city. After this, some Tatars serving Russia gradually settled by Lake Kaban in the southwestern suburbs of Kazan, and later some Tatar merchants and craftsmen also moved there, gradually forming the Old Tatar Quarter (Staro-Tatarskaya Sloboda). However, during this period, Kazan never had an official mosque.

Before the 18th century, most of the buildings in Kazan were made of wood and were highly prone to fire. During the reign of Catherine the Great (reigned 1762-1796), the reconstruction of Kazan using brick and stone began.

In 1770, more than 200 years after the fall of Kazan, the first brick mosque was completed with the approval of Catherine the Great, and from then on, the Kazan Tatars had an official mosque again. In the 160 years between 1770 and 1930, Tatar merchants built many mosques in Kazan centered around the Old Tatar Quarter, 12 of which have survived to this day. The mosques of this period combined traditional Tatar architecture with architectural styles such as Baroque, Classicism, and Eclecticism to form a unique Kazan Tatar mosque architectural style.

In 1930, Stalin ordered the closure of mosques. Except for the earliest built Marjani Mosque, the other 11 mosques in Kazan were closed and converted for other uses, many mosque buildings were damaged, and the minarets were demolished. It was not until after the late 1980s that these mosques were gradually returned to the Kazan Tatar Muslims.

In August 2019, I visited Kazan and Moscow and recorded thirteen traditional Kazan Tatar mosques.

1. Marjani Mosque: 1770

2. Apanay Mosque: 1771

3. Galeevskaya Mosque: 1801

4. İske Taş Mosque: 1802

5. White Mosque: 1805

6. Pink Mosque: 1808

7. Blue Mosque: 1819

8. Nurulla Mosque: 1849

9. Soltan Mosque: 1868

10. Bornay Mosque: 1872

11. Azimov Mosque: 1890

12. Zakabannaya Mosque: 1926

13. Historical Mosque of the Moscow Tatar Community: 1823

1. Marjani Mosque: 1770

The Marjani Mosque was built between 1766 and 1770 with the permission of Catherine the Great, and it was the first brick mosque built in Kazan after Russia destroyed the Khanate of Kazan in 1552. This mosque is the oldest existing mosque in Tatarstan and the only mosque in Kazan that was not closed during the Soviet era.

According to a legend, after Catherine the Great approved the construction of a mosque in Kazan, the Christian leaders of Kazan believed that the mosque would be built taller than the churches, so they submitted a petition to Catherine the Great requesting that the mosque be prohibited from building a tall minaret. Catherine the Great replied, 'I am the Tsar of the Russian land, but the sky is not under my jurisdiction.' In the end, the mosque was successfully built.

The mosque is located in the Old Tatar Quarter (Staro-Tatarskaya Sloboda) by Lake Kaban. It is a typical Kazan Tatar mosque style formed by the fusion of traditional Tatar style and Baroque style. It is said that the architect was Vasily Kaftyrev. The interior of the mosque adopts the 'Petersburg' Baroque style. Merchant İ.Ğ. Yunısov donated the construction of the staircase in 1861 and expanded the mihrab in 1863. At that time, the mosque was named Yunısovs' Mosque after his family. In 1885, merchant Z.Ğosmanov donated the reconstruction of the minaret. In 1887, merchants W.Ğizzätullin and M. Wälişin added decorative balconies to the minaret.

The current name of the mosque comes from the Tatar scholar Şihabetdin Märcani, who served as the imam of the mosque from 1850 to 1889.



















There is an exhibition hall inside the mosque with an old photo album recording the former appearance of the Kazan Tatar Muslims.



















The two Tatar magnets bought at the Märcani Mosque show the rural life of the Volga Tatars, one hunting rabbits and the other beekeeping.





The goose meat sold in the mosque, smoked goose meat, and smoked horse meat are all specialty delicacies of the Kazan Tatars.



2. Apanay Mosque: 1771

The Apanay (Apanaevskaya) Mosque was the second mosque approved by Catherine the Great to be built in Kazan, and it was donated by the merchant Apanaev between 1768 and 1771. The mosque architecture is a fusion of traditional Tatar style and 'Moscow' Baroque style. In 1872, architect P. I. Romanov expanded the second floor of the mosque. In 1882, the mosque built a brick wall and a shop. In 1887, the shop was expanded to the second floor.

The mosque was closed in 1930, the minaret was demolished, and it later became a kindergarten. The mosque reopened after 1995, and the minaret was rebuilt in 2011.













The imam of the mosque

3. Galeevskaya Mosque: 1801

The Galeevskaya Mosque was built with funds donated by merchant Musa Mamyashev between 1798 and 1801. The mosque was originally in the early Classicist architectural style of the late 18th century, and was expanded twice in the late Classicist style in 1882 and 1897.

The most famous imam of the mosque was Galimjan Galeev (1857-1921), who was a Tatar educator, reformer, and politician. Galimjan graduated from the famous Mir-Arab Madrasa in Bukhara and began serving as the imam of the Galeevskaya Mosque in 1882. He founded the Muhammadiya Madrasa at the mosque, teaching mathematics, geography, Russian, and other secular subjects. It became the most important new-style Tatar school at the time, cultivating a large number of Tatar elites and educators.

The mosque was closed in the 1930s, the minaret was demolished, and it was designated as an architectural monument in 1981. By 1992, the mosque contained a hotel, a collective farm house, and various public facilities. After 1998, it became the school building of the Russian Islamic University and the girls' dormitory of the Muhammadiya Madrasa. After restoration in 2015, the mosque reopened.













4. İske Taş Mosque: 1802

İske Taş is also called the Boulder Mosque, built in 1802 with a donation from merchant Ğabdulla Ütämişev. Legend has it that this mosque was built on the site of a cemetery for soldiers who sacrificed their lives defending the city of Kazan in 1552, and the marker of the cemetery was an ancient boulder (zur iske taş).

The mosque was rebuilt in the Classicist style by Alexander Schmidt in 1830, and its three-story minaret resembles the minarets of mosques in the ancient Bolghar and Kasimov regions of the Tatars.

According to the decision of the Central Executive Committee of the Tatar Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic in the late 1930s, the mosque was closed and later converted into a school and warehouse, and was not returned to the Muslims until 1994.



















5. White Mosque: 1805

The White Mosque was built between 1801 and 1805. Similar to the İske Taş Mosque built in the same period, its exterior is in the Classicist style. The mosque was closed in 1929 and converted into a school and fur workshop. In the 1930s, the minaret was demolished, and the eastern and southern parts of the main hall were rebuilt. The mosque became an architectural monument in 1960 and was returned to the Muslims in 2004, but it is still not open.







6. Pink Mosque: 1808

The Pink (Rozovaya) Mosque was built in 1808 with a donation from merchant Musa Apanaev and was the Islamic center of the Novaya Tatarskaya Sloboda area of Kazan. The mosque was closed in 1931 and reopened in 1991, by which time the Novaya Tatarskaya Sloboda had become an industrial zone. Today, it is the Kazan Higher Muslim Islamic Madrasa.













7. Blue Mosque: 1819

The Blue (Zangar) Mosque was built between 1815 and 1819 with funds donated by merchant Akhmet Aitov-Zamanov, and the architect was Alexander Schmidt. Bolshaya Meshchanskaya Street was once the residence of the poorest residents of the Old Tatar Quarter, and the residents here built a wooden mosque in 1778. In 1815, the original wooden mosque was moved to another village, and the current brick mosque in the Classicist style was built here.

The mosque was expanded twice in 1864 and 1907. The mosque was closed in 1932, the minaret was demolished, and it was converted into housing. It reopened in 1993, and the minaret was rebuilt in 2009.









8. Nurulla Mosque: 1849

The Nurulla Mosque was built between 1845 and 1849 with a donation from merchant Ğ. M. Yunısov, featuring a minaret in the ancient Volga Bolghar style and a dome in the Middle Eastern style.

The mosque is part of a series of supporting buildings around the Sennoy Bazaar. The Sennoy Bazaar was the trade center of the Old Tatar Quarter of Kazan in the 18th and 19th centuries. At that time, the mosque was mainly used by Tatar merchants who came to the Sennoy Bazaar to do business, and it was initially named Sennobazarnaya Mosque after the bazaar.

The mosque was closed in 1929 and converted into apartments and offices, during which time the minaret was destroyed. It was not returned to the Muslims until 1992 and was renamed Nurulla Mosque. The minaret was restored between 1990 and 1995.



















The Tubetei (Тюбетей) hat of the Kazan Tatars bought at the shop of the Nurulla Mosque







9. Soltan Mosque: 1868

The Soltan Mosque was built in 1868 with a donation from Tatar merchant Zigansha Usmanov. The area where the mosque is located is called Zabulachye, which means behind the Bulak Canal. During the Kazan Khanate period, this was outside the city and had a settlement called Kuraisheva Sloboda. After Ivan the Terrible conquered Kazan in 1552, this place remained a Tatar settlement, but it was gradually surrounded by Russian settlements, and churches began to be built right next to the mosque.

In the 19th century, Tatar merchant Cihanşa Ğosmanov was determined to build a mosque here that was more beautiful than the church next to it. The mosque was completed in 1868, and to commemorate him, people called the mosque Ğosmanov Mosque or Cihanşa Mosque.

At first, the walls of the mosque were red, so it was also called the Red Mosque. Now the mosque is called the Soltan Mosque, which is to commemorate Zigansha's son, Sultan Abdulgaziz Usmanov, who continued to take care of the local community after his father's death.

The mosque was closed in 1931, and later the minaret was destroyed. It became an architectural monument in 1980. The minaret was rebuilt in 1990, and it reopened in 1994.













10. Bornay Mosque: 1872

The Bornay (Burnaevskaya) Mosque was built in 1872 with funds donated by Tatar merchant Mukhametsadyk Burnayev, and the architect was Peter Romanov.

The mosque is located in the Old Tatar Quarter behind Lake Kaban. In 1799, Tatar merchant Salikh Mustafin built a wooden mosque here. Initially, the mosque was built for the students of the Apanaev Madrasa, and later the surrounding residents also began to use it. Unfortunately, the mosque was later destroyed by fire. In 1872, Tatar merchant Mukhametsadyk Burnayev donated funds to build the current brick mosque on the basis of the burned-down wooden mosque and named it after himself.

The mosque is in the national romantic eclectic style, blending Russian and Tatar architectural decorations. In 1895, shortly before Burnayev's death, a magnificent minaret was designed and built by architects Fyodor Malinovsky and Lev Khrshonovich.

The mosque was closed in 1930, but fortunately, the minaret was preserved, and it reopened in 1994.









11. Azimov Mosque: 1890

The Azimov Mosque was built between 1887 and 1890 with funds donated by Tatar merchant Mortaza Äcimev. The mosque was built in the national romantic eclectic style and is known as the most beautiful mosque in Kazan.

The place where the mosque is located is called Pleten (wicker fence), located between the Old Tatar Quarter and the New Tatar Quarter. In 1851, Tatar merchant Mustafa Azimov built a wooden mosque here. Between 1887 and 1890, his son Murtaza Azimov donated funds to build the current brick mosque and named it after them. Because many Muslim workers from the soap factory lived in the Pleten area, it is also called Zavodskaya (Factory Mosque).

The mosque was closed in 1930 and occupied by a school until it was returned to the Muslims in 1989 and opened in 1992.



















12. Zakabannaya Mosque: 1926

The Zakabannaya Mosque is also called the 'Mosque of the 1000th Anniversary of the Adoption of Islam', built between 1924 and 1926 to commemorate the 1000th anniversary of the Volga Bolghars' conversion to Islam in 922 AD. Stalin personally approved the construction of the mosque, which was designed by architect A. E. Pechnikov in 1914 and built with private donations.

The mosque was closed in 1930 and reopened in 1991. It was the last mosque built in Kazan before Stalin ordered the closure of mosques in 1930.













13. Historical Mosque of the Moscow Tatar Community: 1823

Moscow has had Tatars from the Golden Horde settling there since the 14th century. In 1571, the Crimean Tatars burned down almost the entire city of Moscow except for the Kremlin, and the early Tatar settlements were destroyed in one fell swoop. At the beginning of the 17th century, with the establishment of the Romanov dynasty, the city of Moscow became prosperous again, and many Tatars from the Volga and steppe regions came to do business. The Tatar community (Татарской слободе) located south of the Moskva River, opposite the Kremlin, was formally formed, and the main road of the community, Tatarskaya Street, was first mentioned in documents in 1682. And the center of the Moscow Tatar community is the 'Historical Mosque'.













The Tatar community mosque (мечети в Татарской слободе) is now called the 'Historical Mosque (Исторической мечети)'. The earliest records of the mosque can be traced back to 1712, and it was also mentioned in the 1744 census. Due to the plague epidemic in Moscow in the 1770s, the owner and congregants of the mosque passed away one after another. The mosque was sold to a merchant and was eventually destroyed by fire when Napoleon withdrew from Moscow in 1812. After that, religious activities were moved to the homes of local Tatar merchants.

After the old mosque was destroyed, the Tatar Muslim merchants in Moscow kept applying to build a new mosque, but they were all rejected. Until 1823, Tatar merchant Nazarbay Khashalov was finally approved to build a mosque on Bolshaya Tatarskaya Street, provided that it could not be named 'mosque (мечети)' and could not have the appearance of a mosque. Therefore, the mosque building built at that time was almost the same as the surrounding houses.



Schematic diagram of the original mosque

Between 1833 and 1867, the imam of the mosque was Rafek Bekbulatovich Ageev. Under his efforts, the Muslim community in Moscow gradually improved, and his home was also the earliest Islamic school in Moscow. Between 1867 and 1913, the imam of the mosque was Khairetdin Rafekovich Ageev, who graduated from a madrasa in Kazan, was proficient in 8 languages, taught Islamic knowledge and the Tatar language to military cadets for many years, and was also a translator for the Armory.

In the mid-to-late 19th century, due to the increasing number of Muslims in Moscow, many people could only pray outside the mosque on Fridays, especially in the cold winter. In 1881, Tsar Alexander II approved the mosque to have the appearance of a religious building. Therefore, in 1882, the mosque was expanded under the direction of architect Dmitry Pevnitsky. The new mosque was expanded on both the east and west facades and a minaret was added. After the expansion, it could accommodate 1,500 people.



The mosque in 1883 after reconstruction

The imam of the mosque between 1914 and 1937 was Abdulla Hasanovich Shamsutdinov. He was a Kasimov Tatar who studied at an Islamic madrasa in Bukhara and had served as an imam in Yining, Xinjiang. In 1914, he presided over the opening of a new Islamic madrasa at the mosque and helped the Moscow Muslim Charitable Society become active, making the Moscow Muslim community more united and organized. In the early 1920s, he also began to translate the Quran into the Tatar language.

On April 29, 1936, the imam and his wife were arrested on charges of participating in 'anti-Soviet activities' due to the 'Duma leadership conspiracy case'. On February 10, 1937, the imam was shot for being accused of treason, and his wife died in the torture chamber of the NKVD.

In 1939, the mosque was forced to close. During the Soviet era, the mosque was successively occupied by a printing house and several departments. Between 1944 and 1947, Moscow Muslims tried to get the mosque back, but were ultimately unsuccessful. In 1967, the minaret of the mosque was demolished.

After the 1980s, the elders of the Tatar community repeatedly demanded the return of the mosque. However, since the early 1980s, the printing workshop of the Art Carving Association that occupied the mosque had been protesting, and the return process was delayed until it was finally returned to the Muslims in 1991.

In 1992, the mosque was restored and reopened in 1993. In 1997, the mosque was restored again and became what it is today.



The mosque after the minaret was demolished



The mosque after the minaret was demolished
Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces Thirteen Traditional Mosques of the Tatar People in Kazan, Russia. In 1552, Ivan the Terrible conquered the Khanate of Kazan, massacred most of the Tatars in the city of Kazan, and all mosques in the city were demolished. It is useful for readers interested in Kazan Mosques, Tatar Muslims, Islamic Heritage.

In 1552, Ivan the Terrible conquered the Khanate of Kazan, massacred most of the Tatars in the city of Kazan, and all mosques in the city were demolished. In 1556, Russia rebuilt the city of Kazan and settled 7,000 Russians in the city, while the remaining Tatars, besides being forced to convert to Christianity, were forcibly relocated to various settlements far from the city. After this, some Tatars serving Russia gradually settled by Lake Kaban in the southwestern suburbs of Kazan, and later some Tatar merchants and craftsmen also moved there, gradually forming the Old Tatar Quarter (Staro-Tatarskaya Sloboda). However, during this period, Kazan never had an official mosque.

Before the 18th century, most of the buildings in Kazan were made of wood and were highly prone to fire. During the reign of Catherine the Great (reigned 1762-1796), the reconstruction of Kazan using brick and stone began.

In 1770, more than 200 years after the fall of Kazan, the first brick mosque was completed with the approval of Catherine the Great, and from then on, the Kazan Tatars had an official mosque again. In the 160 years between 1770 and 1930, Tatar merchants built many mosques in Kazan centered around the Old Tatar Quarter, 12 of which have survived to this day. The mosques of this period combined traditional Tatar architecture with architectural styles such as Baroque, Classicism, and Eclecticism to form a unique Kazan Tatar mosque architectural style.

In 1930, Stalin ordered the closure of mosques. Except for the earliest built Marjani Mosque, the other 11 mosques in Kazan were closed and converted for other uses, many mosque buildings were damaged, and the minarets were demolished. It was not until after the late 1980s that these mosques were gradually returned to the Kazan Tatar Muslims.

In August 2019, I visited Kazan and Moscow and recorded thirteen traditional Kazan Tatar mosques.

1. Marjani Mosque: 1770

2. Apanay Mosque: 1771

3. Galeevskaya Mosque: 1801

4. İske Taş Mosque: 1802

5. White Mosque: 1805

6. Pink Mosque: 1808

7. Blue Mosque: 1819

8. Nurulla Mosque: 1849

9. Soltan Mosque: 1868

10. Bornay Mosque: 1872

11. Azimov Mosque: 1890

12. Zakabannaya Mosque: 1926

13. Historical Mosque of the Moscow Tatar Community: 1823

1. Marjani Mosque: 1770

The Marjani Mosque was built between 1766 and 1770 with the permission of Catherine the Great, and it was the first brick mosque built in Kazan after Russia destroyed the Khanate of Kazan in 1552. This mosque is the oldest existing mosque in Tatarstan and the only mosque in Kazan that was not closed during the Soviet era.

According to a legend, after Catherine the Great approved the construction of a mosque in Kazan, the Christian leaders of Kazan believed that the mosque would be built taller than the churches, so they submitted a petition to Catherine the Great requesting that the mosque be prohibited from building a tall minaret. Catherine the Great replied, 'I am the Tsar of the Russian land, but the sky is not under my jurisdiction.' In the end, the mosque was successfully built.

The mosque is located in the Old Tatar Quarter (Staro-Tatarskaya Sloboda) by Lake Kaban. It is a typical Kazan Tatar mosque style formed by the fusion of traditional Tatar style and Baroque style. It is said that the architect was Vasily Kaftyrev. The interior of the mosque adopts the 'Petersburg' Baroque style. Merchant İ.Ğ. Yunısov donated the construction of the staircase in 1861 and expanded the mihrab in 1863. At that time, the mosque was named Yunısovs' Mosque after his family. In 1885, merchant Z.Ğosmanov donated the reconstruction of the minaret. In 1887, merchants W.Ğizzätullin and M. Wälişin added decorative balconies to the minaret.

The current name of the mosque comes from the Tatar scholar Şihabetdin Märcani, who served as the imam of the mosque from 1850 to 1889.



















There is an exhibition hall inside the mosque with an old photo album recording the former appearance of the Kazan Tatar Muslims.



















The two Tatar magnets bought at the Märcani Mosque show the rural life of the Volga Tatars, one hunting rabbits and the other beekeeping.





The goose meat sold in the mosque, smoked goose meat, and smoked horse meat are all specialty delicacies of the Kazan Tatars.



2. Apanay Mosque: 1771

The Apanay (Apanaevskaya) Mosque was the second mosque approved by Catherine the Great to be built in Kazan, and it was donated by the merchant Apanaev between 1768 and 1771. The mosque architecture is a fusion of traditional Tatar style and 'Moscow' Baroque style. In 1872, architect P. I. Romanov expanded the second floor of the mosque. In 1882, the mosque built a brick wall and a shop. In 1887, the shop was expanded to the second floor.

The mosque was closed in 1930, the minaret was demolished, and it later became a kindergarten. The mosque reopened after 1995, and the minaret was rebuilt in 2011.













The imam of the mosque

3. Galeevskaya Mosque: 1801

The Galeevskaya Mosque was built with funds donated by merchant Musa Mamyashev between 1798 and 1801. The mosque was originally in the early Classicist architectural style of the late 18th century, and was expanded twice in the late Classicist style in 1882 and 1897.

The most famous imam of the mosque was Galimjan Galeev (1857-1921), who was a Tatar educator, reformer, and politician. Galimjan graduated from the famous Mir-Arab Madrasa in Bukhara and began serving as the imam of the Galeevskaya Mosque in 1882. He founded the Muhammadiya Madrasa at the mosque, teaching mathematics, geography, Russian, and other secular subjects. It became the most important new-style Tatar school at the time, cultivating a large number of Tatar elites and educators.

The mosque was closed in the 1930s, the minaret was demolished, and it was designated as an architectural monument in 1981. By 1992, the mosque contained a hotel, a collective farm house, and various public facilities. After 1998, it became the school building of the Russian Islamic University and the girls' dormitory of the Muhammadiya Madrasa. After restoration in 2015, the mosque reopened.













4. İske Taş Mosque: 1802

İske Taş is also called the Boulder Mosque, built in 1802 with a donation from merchant Ğabdulla Ütämişev. Legend has it that this mosque was built on the site of a cemetery for soldiers who sacrificed their lives defending the city of Kazan in 1552, and the marker of the cemetery was an ancient boulder (zur iske taş).

The mosque was rebuilt in the Classicist style by Alexander Schmidt in 1830, and its three-story minaret resembles the minarets of mosques in the ancient Bolghar and Kasimov regions of the Tatars.

According to the decision of the Central Executive Committee of the Tatar Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic in the late 1930s, the mosque was closed and later converted into a school and warehouse, and was not returned to the Muslims until 1994.



















5. White Mosque: 1805

The White Mosque was built between 1801 and 1805. Similar to the İske Taş Mosque built in the same period, its exterior is in the Classicist style. The mosque was closed in 1929 and converted into a school and fur workshop. In the 1930s, the minaret was demolished, and the eastern and southern parts of the main hall were rebuilt. The mosque became an architectural monument in 1960 and was returned to the Muslims in 2004, but it is still not open.







6. Pink Mosque: 1808

The Pink (Rozovaya) Mosque was built in 1808 with a donation from merchant Musa Apanaev and was the Islamic center of the Novaya Tatarskaya Sloboda area of Kazan. The mosque was closed in 1931 and reopened in 1991, by which time the Novaya Tatarskaya Sloboda had become an industrial zone. Today, it is the Kazan Higher Muslim Islamic Madrasa.













7. Blue Mosque: 1819

The Blue (Zangar) Mosque was built between 1815 and 1819 with funds donated by merchant Akhmet Aitov-Zamanov, and the architect was Alexander Schmidt. Bolshaya Meshchanskaya Street was once the residence of the poorest residents of the Old Tatar Quarter, and the residents here built a wooden mosque in 1778. In 1815, the original wooden mosque was moved to another village, and the current brick mosque in the Classicist style was built here.

The mosque was expanded twice in 1864 and 1907. The mosque was closed in 1932, the minaret was demolished, and it was converted into housing. It reopened in 1993, and the minaret was rebuilt in 2009.









8. Nurulla Mosque: 1849

The Nurulla Mosque was built between 1845 and 1849 with a donation from merchant Ğ. M. Yunısov, featuring a minaret in the ancient Volga Bolghar style and a dome in the Middle Eastern style.

The mosque is part of a series of supporting buildings around the Sennoy Bazaar. The Sennoy Bazaar was the trade center of the Old Tatar Quarter of Kazan in the 18th and 19th centuries. At that time, the mosque was mainly used by Tatar merchants who came to the Sennoy Bazaar to do business, and it was initially named Sennobazarnaya Mosque after the bazaar.

The mosque was closed in 1929 and converted into apartments and offices, during which time the minaret was destroyed. It was not returned to the Muslims until 1992 and was renamed Nurulla Mosque. The minaret was restored between 1990 and 1995.



















The Tubetei (Тюбетей) hat of the Kazan Tatars bought at the shop of the Nurulla Mosque







9. Soltan Mosque: 1868

The Soltan Mosque was built in 1868 with a donation from Tatar merchant Zigansha Usmanov. The area where the mosque is located is called Zabulachye, which means behind the Bulak Canal. During the Kazan Khanate period, this was outside the city and had a settlement called Kuraisheva Sloboda. After Ivan the Terrible conquered Kazan in 1552, this place remained a Tatar settlement, but it was gradually surrounded by Russian settlements, and churches began to be built right next to the mosque.

In the 19th century, Tatar merchant Cihanşa Ğosmanov was determined to build a mosque here that was more beautiful than the church next to it. The mosque was completed in 1868, and to commemorate him, people called the mosque Ğosmanov Mosque or Cihanşa Mosque.

At first, the walls of the mosque were red, so it was also called the Red Mosque. Now the mosque is called the Soltan Mosque, which is to commemorate Zigansha's son, Sultan Abdulgaziz Usmanov, who continued to take care of the local community after his father's death.

The mosque was closed in 1931, and later the minaret was destroyed. It became an architectural monument in 1980. The minaret was rebuilt in 1990, and it reopened in 1994.













10. Bornay Mosque: 1872

The Bornay (Burnaevskaya) Mosque was built in 1872 with funds donated by Tatar merchant Mukhametsadyk Burnayev, and the architect was Peter Romanov.

The mosque is located in the Old Tatar Quarter behind Lake Kaban. In 1799, Tatar merchant Salikh Mustafin built a wooden mosque here. Initially, the mosque was built for the students of the Apanaev Madrasa, and later the surrounding residents also began to use it. Unfortunately, the mosque was later destroyed by fire. In 1872, Tatar merchant Mukhametsadyk Burnayev donated funds to build the current brick mosque on the basis of the burned-down wooden mosque and named it after himself.

The mosque is in the national romantic eclectic style, blending Russian and Tatar architectural decorations. In 1895, shortly before Burnayev's death, a magnificent minaret was designed and built by architects Fyodor Malinovsky and Lev Khrshonovich.

The mosque was closed in 1930, but fortunately, the minaret was preserved, and it reopened in 1994.









11. Azimov Mosque: 1890

The Azimov Mosque was built between 1887 and 1890 with funds donated by Tatar merchant Mortaza Äcimev. The mosque was built in the national romantic eclectic style and is known as the most beautiful mosque in Kazan.

The place where the mosque is located is called Pleten (wicker fence), located between the Old Tatar Quarter and the New Tatar Quarter. In 1851, Tatar merchant Mustafa Azimov built a wooden mosque here. Between 1887 and 1890, his son Murtaza Azimov donated funds to build the current brick mosque and named it after them. Because many Muslim workers from the soap factory lived in the Pleten area, it is also called Zavodskaya (Factory Mosque).

The mosque was closed in 1930 and occupied by a school until it was returned to the Muslims in 1989 and opened in 1992.



















12. Zakabannaya Mosque: 1926

The Zakabannaya Mosque is also called the 'Mosque of the 1000th Anniversary of the Adoption of Islam', built between 1924 and 1926 to commemorate the 1000th anniversary of the Volga Bolghars' conversion to Islam in 922 AD. Stalin personally approved the construction of the mosque, which was designed by architect A. E. Pechnikov in 1914 and built with private donations.

The mosque was closed in 1930 and reopened in 1991. It was the last mosque built in Kazan before Stalin ordered the closure of mosques in 1930.













13. Historical Mosque of the Moscow Tatar Community: 1823

Moscow has had Tatars from the Golden Horde settling there since the 14th century. In 1571, the Crimean Tatars burned down almost the entire city of Moscow except for the Kremlin, and the early Tatar settlements were destroyed in one fell swoop. At the beginning of the 17th century, with the establishment of the Romanov dynasty, the city of Moscow became prosperous again, and many Tatars from the Volga and steppe regions came to do business. The Tatar community (Татарской слободе) located south of the Moskva River, opposite the Kremlin, was formally formed, and the main road of the community, Tatarskaya Street, was first mentioned in documents in 1682. And the center of the Moscow Tatar community is the 'Historical Mosque'.













The Tatar community mosque (мечети в Татарской слободе) is now called the 'Historical Mosque (Исторической мечети)'. The earliest records of the mosque can be traced back to 1712, and it was also mentioned in the 1744 census. Due to the plague epidemic in Moscow in the 1770s, the owner and congregants of the mosque passed away one after another. The mosque was sold to a merchant and was eventually destroyed by fire when Napoleon withdrew from Moscow in 1812. After that, religious activities were moved to the homes of local Tatar merchants.

After the old mosque was destroyed, the Tatar Muslim merchants in Moscow kept applying to build a new mosque, but they were all rejected. Until 1823, Tatar merchant Nazarbay Khashalov was finally approved to build a mosque on Bolshaya Tatarskaya Street, provided that it could not be named 'mosque (мечети)' and could not have the appearance of a mosque. Therefore, the mosque building built at that time was almost the same as the surrounding houses.



Schematic diagram of the original mosque

Between 1833 and 1867, the imam of the mosque was Rafek Bekbulatovich Ageev. Under his efforts, the Muslim community in Moscow gradually improved, and his home was also the earliest Islamic school in Moscow. Between 1867 and 1913, the imam of the mosque was Khairetdin Rafekovich Ageev, who graduated from a madrasa in Kazan, was proficient in 8 languages, taught Islamic knowledge and the Tatar language to military cadets for many years, and was also a translator for the Armory.

In the mid-to-late 19th century, due to the increasing number of Muslims in Moscow, many people could only pray outside the mosque on Fridays, especially in the cold winter. In 1881, Tsar Alexander II approved the mosque to have the appearance of a religious building. Therefore, in 1882, the mosque was expanded under the direction of architect Dmitry Pevnitsky. The new mosque was expanded on both the east and west facades and a minaret was added. After the expansion, it could accommodate 1,500 people.



The mosque in 1883 after reconstruction

The imam of the mosque between 1914 and 1937 was Abdulla Hasanovich Shamsutdinov. He was a Kasimov Tatar who studied at an Islamic madrasa in Bukhara and had served as an imam in Yining, Xinjiang. In 1914, he presided over the opening of a new Islamic madrasa at the mosque and helped the Moscow Muslim Charitable Society become active, making the Moscow Muslim community more united and organized. In the early 1920s, he also began to translate the Quran into the Tatar language.

On April 29, 1936, the imam and his wife were arrested on charges of participating in 'anti-Soviet activities' due to the 'Duma leadership conspiracy case'. On February 10, 1937, the imam was shot for being accused of treason, and his wife died in the torture chamber of the NKVD.

In 1939, the mosque was forced to close. During the Soviet era, the mosque was successively occupied by a printing house and several departments. Between 1944 and 1947, Moscow Muslims tried to get the mosque back, but were ultimately unsuccessful. In 1967, the minaret of the mosque was demolished.

After the 1980s, the elders of the Tatar community repeatedly demanded the return of the mosque. However, since the early 1980s, the printing workshop of the Art Carving Association that occupied the mosque had been protesting, and the return process was delayed until it was finally returned to the Muslims in 1991.

In 1992, the mosque was restored and reopened in 1993. In 1997, the mosque was restored again and became what it is today.



The mosque after the minaret was demolished



The mosque after the minaret was demolished Collapse Read »

Halal Shopping and Eating in Hohhot in Summer

Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces Halal Shopping and Eating in Hohhot in Summer. At the end of June, I went on a trip to Hohhot and Ulanqab with Zainab for the weekend. First, I will share our eating and shopping experience in Hohhot. It is useful for readers interested in Hohhot Travel, Halal Food, Muslim Travel.

At the end of June, I went on a trip to Hohhot and Ulanqab with Zainab for the weekend. First, I will share our eating and shopping experience in Hohhot.

We arrived in Hohhot by night train on Friday. We came to the entrance of the Great Mosque to drink some dried apricot and persimmon fruit soup, then went to Wang Wei on Dasi North Street to eat lamb skewers. Their place should be the most popular one for lamb skewers around the Great Mosque. We also ordered peanuts and edamame, plum juice, and lean meat sandwiches. The sandwiches were filled with pure lean stewed meat, which was very satisfying.



















On Saturday morning, we had a Halal Mongolian-style breakfast at Haidiche on Nanshuncheng Street. We had salty milk tea with fried rice, milk skin, soft fried dough strips, and hard fried dough strips. The dough strips are made with yogurt and flour without a drop of water. There were also wild onion side dishes and Buryat steamed buns.

Last time I came to Hohhot, I didn't know there was Halal Mongolian food. This shop has been open for more than a year, and Haidiche is the owner's religious name. The owner's family is very kind. Her mother was looking after the shop during breakfast. The auntie introduced us to the way of eating Mongolian breakfast in detail and asked about us in every way, which made us feel very warm.



















We bought some freshly brewed yogurt at Ma's Dairy Shop on Xinmin Street. The Ma surname Hui people's ancestral home is Youwei, Shanxi. In the Ming Dynasty, they were a powerful family of the Nine Frontiers. In the mid-Wanli period, the 'Ma Family Army' formed by Ma Gui and his brothers and nephews was famous for being good at fighting. They made great contributions by defending Youwei for six months against Altan Khan. The Ma surname Hui people defended the frontier for the Ming Dynasty for many years, and almost all frontier towns had people with the surname Ma serving as regional commanders. After the fall of the Ming Dynasty, the Ma family gave up their military service to farm. After the 'Great Western Route' trade route opened during the Kangxi period, many people moved to Guihua City to settle down.







We bought some sweet and sour dried crabapples at Wang Laoqi's dry goods store at the entrance of the Great Mosque, and bought a cup of fruit soup in Kuanxiangzi. Just walking around and eating snacks in the Hui district of Hohhot is very rich.













We bought roasted milk skin at Bai's Dairy Shop on Houxincheng Road. The texture of their roasted milk skin is just right and not hard at all. Zainab said it was much better than what she had bought online before. Their cheese is also very delicious, sweet and sour, but the weather was too hot to take away, so we just tasted it.

One theory about the Bai surname Hui people in Hohhot is that they followed Princess Kejing to Guihua City to do business after she married the Mongolian Tushetu Khan in 1697 (the 36th year of Kangxi). Another theory is that they moved from Xi'an in the late Qing Dynasty. At that time, the most famous noodle shop outside the north gate of Guihua City was opened by Bai Xiu.











We bought milk skin rolls and fresh yogurt at Miao's Fresh Yogurt Shop on Xincheng Road. Milk skin can be rolled with four kinds of fillings: hawthorn, cranberry, raisins, and fried rice. Each flavor is different, and I personally prefer the cranberry roll. In summer, milk skin rolls cannot be stored at room temperature and need to be eaten on the same day.













The Hohhot Great Mosque was first built in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, expanded in 1789 (the 54th year of Qianlong), and expanded again in 1923.

The mosque gate was built in 1892 (the 18th year of Guangxu), with a plaque inscribed 'Great Mosque' from 1890 (the 16th year of Guangxu), and plaques reading 'Country Prosperous' and 'People Peaceful' on both sides.









After entering the gate, you can see the brick-carved screen wall behind the main hall, built in 1896 (the 22nd year of Guangxu), engraved with 'Rectify the Heart and Be Sincere in Cultivating the Self', 'Recognize the Oneness of Allah', 'Enlighten the Heart', and 'See the Nature', which were inscribed by Ma Fuxiang, the then-Governor of Suiyuan in 1924.











The prayer hall was expanded in 1923 and consists of a shed, front hall, middle hall, and kiln hall. It has a connected roof structure, and there are five pointed pavilions on the roof, symbolizing the five pillars of Islam: 'Faith, Prayer, Fasting, Charity, and Pilgrimage'. The shed is in a Chinese-Western fusion style, with arched doors, and Arabic plaques, couplets, and floral patterns on the walls.





















Inside the main hall.









The Moon-Watching Tower was built in 1939, 36 meters high, with a hexagonal brick base on the lower level and a single-eave hexagonal pointed roof on the top level.







The Hohhot East Mosque was first built during the Kangxi period of the Qing Dynasty. It was originally a school and was expanded into a mosque during the Guangxu period. The current building was rebuilt in 2014.



















At noon, we had lamb spine and lamb bone with cold soup oat noodles at Countryside Fragrant Oat Noodles on Niu Street. I feel that the oat noodle and bone restaurant is a very classic combination in Hohhot, and it is really satisfying to eat in summer.

Their lamb spine and lamb bones are stewed until very tender, falling off the bone in one bite. The meat is very fragrant, and you can tell the quality of the lamb is relatively high. There are four types of oat noodles: hot lamb soup, cold beef soup, cold mixed, and stir-fried with oily meat. You can also choose oat noodle nests or noodles. I feel that eating cold soup is more refreshing in summer. When eating, first pour vinegar and chili on the vegetables and fried sauce, mix them, and then add the oat noodle nests. It is very refreshing. They serve barley and tartary buckwheat tea instead of brick tea, which also feels very appropriate.



















In the evening, at Zainab's strong request, we had pot tea with meat sausages at the Haidiche Halal Mongolian Restaurant in Hohhot. Pot tea is made by first stir-frying fried rice with butter and white cream, then pouring in boiled milk tea, and then adding dried meat, milk skin, milk tofu, and various other dairy products. It can be eaten once the milk tea boils. I feel that pot tea is a bit like a hot pot of dairy products, haha.

The Mongolian-style meat sausages contain fresh and tender small pieces of meat, which is much more satisfying than sausages made with meat paste. This was my first time eating Mongolian food, and I fell in love with it immediately.

















On Sunday morning, we bought beef jerky at Ma Zhanguang's Beef Jerky Shop at the entrance of the Great Mosque. There are several types: super dry, original, five-spice, cumin, spicy, and hot and spicy. The boss is very enthusiastic and cut each kind for us to taste. I feel the cumin one is more fragrant, but the super dry one is particularly chewy. We bought some of each to take home.











We ate Shaomai and drank brick tea at Qingyuanchun on Nanshuncheng Street. I personally like their place, and I also ate at their place when I came to Hohhot before.

Qingyuanchun is a time-honored Shaomai brand. In 1796 (the first year of Jiaqing), Li Chun pushed a wheelbarrow to sell Shaomai in Guihua City. It was very popular because he wrapped and sold them on the spot. In 1828 (the eighth year of Daoguang), Li Chun's son, Li Guangyuan, rented two wooden rooms outside the Lanma Wall in Guihua City and officially hung up the 'Qingyuanchun' Shaomai brand. In 1956, Qingyuanchun was renovated and reopened by brothers Li Hongtu and Li Mingqing in a shop of more than 30 square meters. It was inherited by the fifth generation, Li Jiting, in 1963, and by the sixth generation, Li Yongqing, in 2009. It is a famous Halal Shaomai brand in Hohhot.









Then we bought a yogurt cake at the Haidiche Halal Mongolian Restaurant opposite. It is a cake made with pure yogurt and flour, without a drop of water. It also has milk tofu inside, the milk flavor is very strong, and it is really super delicious.



Then we went to Bai Laosan's Offal Shop on Luzu Temple Street to eat lamb offal with Beizi, which is a classic breakfast combination in Hohhot. The lamb offal is very similar to the one in Datong, and the taste is very rich. The Beizi is so big that I couldn't finish it by myself. It is very solid.







Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces Halal Shopping and Eating in Hohhot in Summer. At the end of June, I went on a trip to Hohhot and Ulanqab with Zainab for the weekend. First, I will share our eating and shopping experience in Hohhot. It is useful for readers interested in Hohhot Travel, Halal Food, Muslim Travel.

At the end of June, I went on a trip to Hohhot and Ulanqab with Zainab for the weekend. First, I will share our eating and shopping experience in Hohhot.

We arrived in Hohhot by night train on Friday. We came to the entrance of the Great Mosque to drink some dried apricot and persimmon fruit soup, then went to Wang Wei on Dasi North Street to eat lamb skewers. Their place should be the most popular one for lamb skewers around the Great Mosque. We also ordered peanuts and edamame, plum juice, and lean meat sandwiches. The sandwiches were filled with pure lean stewed meat, which was very satisfying.



















On Saturday morning, we had a Halal Mongolian-style breakfast at Haidiche on Nanshuncheng Street. We had salty milk tea with fried rice, milk skin, soft fried dough strips, and hard fried dough strips. The dough strips are made with yogurt and flour without a drop of water. There were also wild onion side dishes and Buryat steamed buns.

Last time I came to Hohhot, I didn't know there was Halal Mongolian food. This shop has been open for more than a year, and Haidiche is the owner's religious name. The owner's family is very kind. Her mother was looking after the shop during breakfast. The auntie introduced us to the way of eating Mongolian breakfast in detail and asked about us in every way, which made us feel very warm.



















We bought some freshly brewed yogurt at Ma's Dairy Shop on Xinmin Street. The Ma surname Hui people's ancestral home is Youwei, Shanxi. In the Ming Dynasty, they were a powerful family of the Nine Frontiers. In the mid-Wanli period, the 'Ma Family Army' formed by Ma Gui and his brothers and nephews was famous for being good at fighting. They made great contributions by defending Youwei for six months against Altan Khan. The Ma surname Hui people defended the frontier for the Ming Dynasty for many years, and almost all frontier towns had people with the surname Ma serving as regional commanders. After the fall of the Ming Dynasty, the Ma family gave up their military service to farm. After the 'Great Western Route' trade route opened during the Kangxi period, many people moved to Guihua City to settle down.







We bought some sweet and sour dried crabapples at Wang Laoqi's dry goods store at the entrance of the Great Mosque, and bought a cup of fruit soup in Kuanxiangzi. Just walking around and eating snacks in the Hui district of Hohhot is very rich.













We bought roasted milk skin at Bai's Dairy Shop on Houxincheng Road. The texture of their roasted milk skin is just right and not hard at all. Zainab said it was much better than what she had bought online before. Their cheese is also very delicious, sweet and sour, but the weather was too hot to take away, so we just tasted it.

One theory about the Bai surname Hui people in Hohhot is that they followed Princess Kejing to Guihua City to do business after she married the Mongolian Tushetu Khan in 1697 (the 36th year of Kangxi). Another theory is that they moved from Xi'an in the late Qing Dynasty. At that time, the most famous noodle shop outside the north gate of Guihua City was opened by Bai Xiu.











We bought milk skin rolls and fresh yogurt at Miao's Fresh Yogurt Shop on Xincheng Road. Milk skin can be rolled with four kinds of fillings: hawthorn, cranberry, raisins, and fried rice. Each flavor is different, and I personally prefer the cranberry roll. In summer, milk skin rolls cannot be stored at room temperature and need to be eaten on the same day.













The Hohhot Great Mosque was first built in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, expanded in 1789 (the 54th year of Qianlong), and expanded again in 1923.

The mosque gate was built in 1892 (the 18th year of Guangxu), with a plaque inscribed 'Great Mosque' from 1890 (the 16th year of Guangxu), and plaques reading 'Country Prosperous' and 'People Peaceful' on both sides.









After entering the gate, you can see the brick-carved screen wall behind the main hall, built in 1896 (the 22nd year of Guangxu), engraved with 'Rectify the Heart and Be Sincere in Cultivating the Self', 'Recognize the Oneness of Allah', 'Enlighten the Heart', and 'See the Nature', which were inscribed by Ma Fuxiang, the then-Governor of Suiyuan in 1924.











The prayer hall was expanded in 1923 and consists of a shed, front hall, middle hall, and kiln hall. It has a connected roof structure, and there are five pointed pavilions on the roof, symbolizing the five pillars of Islam: 'Faith, Prayer, Fasting, Charity, and Pilgrimage'. The shed is in a Chinese-Western fusion style, with arched doors, and Arabic plaques, couplets, and floral patterns on the walls.





















Inside the main hall.









The Moon-Watching Tower was built in 1939, 36 meters high, with a hexagonal brick base on the lower level and a single-eave hexagonal pointed roof on the top level.







The Hohhot East Mosque was first built during the Kangxi period of the Qing Dynasty. It was originally a school and was expanded into a mosque during the Guangxu period. The current building was rebuilt in 2014.



















At noon, we had lamb spine and lamb bone with cold soup oat noodles at Countryside Fragrant Oat Noodles on Niu Street. I feel that the oat noodle and bone restaurant is a very classic combination in Hohhot, and it is really satisfying to eat in summer.

Their lamb spine and lamb bones are stewed until very tender, falling off the bone in one bite. The meat is very fragrant, and you can tell the quality of the lamb is relatively high. There are four types of oat noodles: hot lamb soup, cold beef soup, cold mixed, and stir-fried with oily meat. You can also choose oat noodle nests or noodles. I feel that eating cold soup is more refreshing in summer. When eating, first pour vinegar and chili on the vegetables and fried sauce, mix them, and then add the oat noodle nests. It is very refreshing. They serve barley and tartary buckwheat tea instead of brick tea, which also feels very appropriate.



















In the evening, at Zainab's strong request, we had pot tea with meat sausages at the Haidiche Halal Mongolian Restaurant in Hohhot. Pot tea is made by first stir-frying fried rice with butter and white cream, then pouring in boiled milk tea, and then adding dried meat, milk skin, milk tofu, and various other dairy products. It can be eaten once the milk tea boils. I feel that pot tea is a bit like a hot pot of dairy products, haha.

The Mongolian-style meat sausages contain fresh and tender small pieces of meat, which is much more satisfying than sausages made with meat paste. This was my first time eating Mongolian food, and I fell in love with it immediately.

















On Sunday morning, we bought beef jerky at Ma Zhanguang's Beef Jerky Shop at the entrance of the Great Mosque. There are several types: super dry, original, five-spice, cumin, spicy, and hot and spicy. The boss is very enthusiastic and cut each kind for us to taste. I feel the cumin one is more fragrant, but the super dry one is particularly chewy. We bought some of each to take home.











We ate Shaomai and drank brick tea at Qingyuanchun on Nanshuncheng Street. I personally like their place, and I also ate at their place when I came to Hohhot before.

Qingyuanchun is a time-honored Shaomai brand. In 1796 (the first year of Jiaqing), Li Chun pushed a wheelbarrow to sell Shaomai in Guihua City. It was very popular because he wrapped and sold them on the spot. In 1828 (the eighth year of Daoguang), Li Chun's son, Li Guangyuan, rented two wooden rooms outside the Lanma Wall in Guihua City and officially hung up the 'Qingyuanchun' Shaomai brand. In 1956, Qingyuanchun was renovated and reopened by brothers Li Hongtu and Li Mingqing in a shop of more than 30 square meters. It was inherited by the fifth generation, Li Jiting, in 1963, and by the sixth generation, Li Yongqing, in 2009. It is a famous Halal Shaomai brand in Hohhot.









Then we bought a yogurt cake at the Haidiche Halal Mongolian Restaurant opposite. It is a cake made with pure yogurt and flour, without a drop of water. It also has milk tofu inside, the milk flavor is very strong, and it is really super delicious.



Then we went to Bai Laosan's Offal Shop on Luzu Temple Street to eat lamb offal with Beizi, which is a classic breakfast combination in Hohhot. The lamb offal is very similar to the one in Datong, and the taste is very rich. The Beizi is so big that I couldn't finish it by myself. It is very solid.







Collapse Read »

Notes on Visiting the Exhibition at the Museum of the Islamic Era in Iran (Part 1)

Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces Notes on Visiting the Exhibition at the Museum of the Islamic Era in Iran (Part 1). The National Museum of Iran is divided into two parts: the Museum of Ancient Iran, built in 1937, and the Museum of the Islamic Era, built in 1972. It is useful for readers interested in Iran Travel, Islamic Art, Museum Visit.

The National Museum of Iran is divided into two parts: the Museum of Ancient Iran, built in 1937, and the Museum of the Islamic Era, built in 1972. The Museum of the Islamic Era displays important artifacts from various Islamic dynasties in Iran over the past thousand years, organized chronologically.





Mihrab prayer niche

Mosaic tile mihrab

A mosaic tile mihrab from 1641, from the holy city of Mashhad during the Safavid dynasty, featuring Thuluth calligraphy.







Stucco mihrab

A mihrab from 1133, from the Karrar shrine in the city of Bouzun, Isfahan province, during the Seljuk Empire. It was made by Ali ibn-e Shirzad Ansari al-Qazvini and features Thuluth, Kufic, and Reqa scripts.







A mihrab from 1308, from the Rabi' Khatoon shrine in the city of Oshtorjan, Isfahan province, during the Ilkhanate period, made by Masoud Kermani. It features Kufic and Thuluth calligraphy.













Lustreware mihrab

A lustreware mihrab from 1271, from the tomb of Habib ibn-e Musa in Kashan, Isfahan, during the Ilkhanate period, featuring Thuluth calligraphy.



A lustreware mihrab from the early 14th century, from the tomb of Hares Ibn-e Ahmad Ibn-e Zein 'Abedin in the city of Qom during the Ilkhanate period, featuring Thuluth calligraphy.







A 14th-century Ilkhanate period lustreware mihrab featuring Naskh calligraphy.



A 1333 lustreware mihrab from the Ali ibn-e Jafar shrine in the city of Qom, also known as the Gate of Paradise (Dar-e-Behesht), featuring Kufic, Naskh, and Thuluth calligraphy.













Stone mihrab

An 11th-century stone mihrab from the city of Meymeh, Isfahan province, featuring Kufic calligraphy.







A 17th-century Safavid dynasty mihrab from the Ganj mosque in Kerman, featuring Thuluth calligraphy. The Ganjali Khan complex was built between 1596 and 1631 by Ganj Ali Khan, who ruled Kerman at the time; the architect was Mohammad Soltani from Yazd.







A 16th-century Timurid dynasty mihrab from the Jameh Mosque of Abarkuh, with Thuluth calligraphy on three sides and Kufic calligraphy on the two corners. Furthermore, the mihrab features two unique and beautiful marble columns on either side, which also bear Kufic calligraphy. Abarkuh is located in Yazd province, and its Timurid-era Jameh Mosque is situated in the city center square.







A 15th-century Timurid dynasty marble mihrab featuring Thuluth and Kufic calligraphy.



A 1413 Timurid dynasty marble mihrab featuring Thuluth calligraphy.







Brickwork art

11th-century brick Kufic inscriptions from the Nezamiyyeh School in Khargerd, Khaf city, Razavi Khorasan province, northeastern Iran. Khaf is a historic city near the Iran-Afghanistan border, home to numerous ancient monuments.



















A 1148 brick Kufic inscription, possibly from the Joneyd shrine in the village of Turan Posht. Turan Posht is one of the oldest villages in Yazd province, home to the Sheikh Joneyd and Chehel Dokhtaran domed shrines, known for their exquisite Kufic calligraphy.





Wood carving art

10th-century Kufic wood carving from the city of Qom.











An 11th-century wooden door from the city of Behbahan, Khuzestan province, southwestern Iran, featuring Kufic and Naskh wood carvings.





A 1341 wooden door from Fars province, southern Iran.





Ilkhanate tiles

14th-century Ilkhanate tiles unearthed at the Takht-e Soleymān site in West Azerbaijan province. The Takht-e Soleymān site is a World Heritage site; it was originally an important Zoroastrian temple during the 5th-century Sassanid dynasty and was rebuilt in the 13th century as a summer palace for the Ilkhanate. Here, the Ilkhanate blended Eastern art with Iranian art, developing a unique Ilkhanate artistic style.

Takht-e Soleymān is the only surviving secular complex of the Ilkhanate. The walls of the Great Khan's palace are decorated with exquisite tiles, serving as a direct reflection of the cultural and artistic exchange between China and Iran in the 14th century. The tiles depict various floral, animal, and human motifs, with themes covering Buddhism, Chinese mythology, pre-Islamic Iran, as well as the Islamic Quran and Shia traditions, showcasing a fusion of multiple cultures. Some of the tiles feature themes from the famous Iranian epic, the Shahnameh, which also reflects the integration of the Ilkhanate into Iranian culture at the time.













13th-14th century Ilkhanate period tiles from the city of Saveh, Markazi province. Saveh was an important city during the Parthian Empire; it was later destroyed by the Mongol army and rebuilt during the Ilkhanate period.











13th-century Gorgan, located on the Caspian coast. Gorgan was an important city during the Sassanid Empire and remained a center for Zoroastrianism after the 8th century. Old Gorgan was destroyed by the Mongols, and the city was relocated to a new site during the Ilkhanate period.









13th-14th century Ilkhanate period tiles from Kashan, Isfahan province. During the Seljuk Empire and Ilkhanate rule from the 12th to the 14th century, Kashan was an important center for the production of high-quality pottery and tiles in Iran. In modern Persian, the word for tile (kashi) is derived from Kashan.











Artifacts from Nishapur, 9th to 11th century.

Nishapur is located on the ancient Silk Road in northeastern Iran and was once one of the four major cities of the Greater Khorasan region. In the 9th century AD, Nishapur became the capital of the Persian Tahirid dynasty. Under the rule of the Persian Samanid dynasty in the 10th century, Nishapur developed into an important cultural and commercial center of the Islamic world, continuing through the 11th-century Seljuk dynasty. Between the 9th and 11th centuries, various cultures and religions converged in Nishapur, where trade routes from Central Asia, China, Iraq, and Egypt intersected. The glazed pottery produced in Nishapur at that time became an important trade commodity in the West, once rivaling Baghdad and Cairo.

In 1221, Nishapur was massacred by the Mongols and subsequently completely destroyed; the former metropolis was buried deep underground. It was not until archaeological excavations by the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York between 1935 and 1940 that countless artifacts and ruins were discovered beneath the farmland. Today, most of the excavated Nishapur artifacts are preserved in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, as well as in museums in Tehran and Mashhad.

According to historical records, Nishapur had at least 38 madrasas before the 11th century. Before the archaeological excavations, no ruins were visible except for a mound in the farmland. Archaeological excavations identified six layers of the Tappeh Madreseh site dating from the 9th to the 13th century; although signs of destruction and subsequent restoration or reconstruction were found in each layer, they maintained a relatively consistent overall layout.

The lowest layer of the madrasa dates back to the 9th century and is believed to have been built by the Tahirid ruler Abdallah ibn Tahir (reigned 828-845). The early spaces were large, but were further subdivided during the Samanid dynasty in the 10th century and the Seljuk dynasty in the 11th century. Overall, however, the madrasa featured a square courtyard in the center, surrounded by more than 20 rooms on three sides, with rectangular colonnades.

9th-century colored plaster murals unearthed at the Tappeh Madreseh site.







9th-century plaster hunting murals unearthed at the Tappeh Takestan site in Nishapur.





9th-10th century pottery with Kufic calligraphy.









Artifacts unearthed from the ancient city of Ray.

Ray is located in the southern suburbs of Tehran and is an important ancient city in northern Iran, referred to as 'Layi' in books such as the History of Yuan. The history of the ancient city of Ray is very old, mentioned in both the Zoroastrian Avesta and the Christian Bible.

In the 640s AD, the Sassanid dynasty used the ancient city of Ray as a base to resist the Arab invasion, but ultimately failed, and Ray came under the rule of the Arab Empire. In the 9th century AD, the Shah Abdol-Azim shrine was built in Ray, becoming an important religious site in Iran.

In 1043, the founder of the Seljuk Empire, Tuğrul Beg, made Ray the capital of the empire and carried out large-scale reconstruction of the ancient city. Under the rule of the Seljuk Empire, Ray reached its peak, with a massive bazaar and very prosperous commerce. Import and export trade, primarily in silk, connected the entire Eurasian continent. Ray was the center of painted pottery production in Iran at the time, and Ray-style painted pottery was an important handicraft of this period.

In 1220, the Mongol army invaded Ray, which was under the rule of the Khwarazmian Empire. Due to the lack of fierce resistance, the Mongols did not massacre the city. Nevertheless, the residents of the city gradually left, and the center of pottery production shifted to the southern city of Kashan. After this, Ray became a ghost town, but its sturdy walls still allowed it to be used as a military fortress during wars. It was not until the construction of the walls of Tehran in the 16th century that Ray was finally abandoned.

8th-9th century dado, located on the lower part of interior walls, serving both to protect the wall and as decoration.





11th-century Seljuk Empire period mihrab.



11th-century Seljuk Empire period circular stucco decoration with Kufic calligraphy.





A fragment of a stucco wall from an 11th-century Seljuk Empire school.



























12th-13th century pottery bowl with typical Seljuk style and overglaze Kufic calligraphy.











12th-13th century pottery bowl with transparent glaze and Taʿlīq Persian calligraphy.



Ray-style silk fabric from the early Islamic period, 7th-10th century.













Others

13th-century Kufic tile, unearthed in the city of Damghan, Semnan province, Iran.



1469 Timurid dynasty wood carving with Thuluth calligraphy.



15th-century Timurid dynasty tile with Thuluth calligraphy, unearthed in the city of Taft, Yazd province.

Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces Notes on Visiting the Exhibition at the Museum of the Islamic Era in Iran (Part 1). The National Museum of Iran is divided into two parts: the Museum of Ancient Iran, built in 1937, and the Museum of the Islamic Era, built in 1972. It is useful for readers interested in Iran Travel, Islamic Art, Museum Visit.

The National Museum of Iran is divided into two parts: the Museum of Ancient Iran, built in 1937, and the Museum of the Islamic Era, built in 1972. The Museum of the Islamic Era displays important artifacts from various Islamic dynasties in Iran over the past thousand years, organized chronologically.





Mihrab prayer niche

Mosaic tile mihrab

A mosaic tile mihrab from 1641, from the holy city of Mashhad during the Safavid dynasty, featuring Thuluth calligraphy.







Stucco mihrab

A mihrab from 1133, from the Karrar shrine in the city of Bouzun, Isfahan province, during the Seljuk Empire. It was made by Ali ibn-e Shirzad Ansari al-Qazvini and features Thuluth, Kufic, and Reqa scripts.







A mihrab from 1308, from the Rabi' Khatoon shrine in the city of Oshtorjan, Isfahan province, during the Ilkhanate period, made by Masoud Kermani. It features Kufic and Thuluth calligraphy.













Lustreware mihrab

A lustreware mihrab from 1271, from the tomb of Habib ibn-e Musa in Kashan, Isfahan, during the Ilkhanate period, featuring Thuluth calligraphy.



A lustreware mihrab from the early 14th century, from the tomb of Hares Ibn-e Ahmad Ibn-e Zein 'Abedin in the city of Qom during the Ilkhanate period, featuring Thuluth calligraphy.







A 14th-century Ilkhanate period lustreware mihrab featuring Naskh calligraphy.



A 1333 lustreware mihrab from the Ali ibn-e Jafar shrine in the city of Qom, also known as the Gate of Paradise (Dar-e-Behesht), featuring Kufic, Naskh, and Thuluth calligraphy.













Stone mihrab

An 11th-century stone mihrab from the city of Meymeh, Isfahan province, featuring Kufic calligraphy.







A 17th-century Safavid dynasty mihrab from the Ganj mosque in Kerman, featuring Thuluth calligraphy. The Ganjali Khan complex was built between 1596 and 1631 by Ganj Ali Khan, who ruled Kerman at the time; the architect was Mohammad Soltani from Yazd.







A 16th-century Timurid dynasty mihrab from the Jameh Mosque of Abarkuh, with Thuluth calligraphy on three sides and Kufic calligraphy on the two corners. Furthermore, the mihrab features two unique and beautiful marble columns on either side, which also bear Kufic calligraphy. Abarkuh is located in Yazd province, and its Timurid-era Jameh Mosque is situated in the city center square.







A 15th-century Timurid dynasty marble mihrab featuring Thuluth and Kufic calligraphy.



A 1413 Timurid dynasty marble mihrab featuring Thuluth calligraphy.







Brickwork art

11th-century brick Kufic inscriptions from the Nezamiyyeh School in Khargerd, Khaf city, Razavi Khorasan province, northeastern Iran. Khaf is a historic city near the Iran-Afghanistan border, home to numerous ancient monuments.



















A 1148 brick Kufic inscription, possibly from the Joneyd shrine in the village of Turan Posht. Turan Posht is one of the oldest villages in Yazd province, home to the Sheikh Joneyd and Chehel Dokhtaran domed shrines, known for their exquisite Kufic calligraphy.





Wood carving art

10th-century Kufic wood carving from the city of Qom.











An 11th-century wooden door from the city of Behbahan, Khuzestan province, southwestern Iran, featuring Kufic and Naskh wood carvings.





A 1341 wooden door from Fars province, southern Iran.





Ilkhanate tiles

14th-century Ilkhanate tiles unearthed at the Takht-e Soleymān site in West Azerbaijan province. The Takht-e Soleymān site is a World Heritage site; it was originally an important Zoroastrian temple during the 5th-century Sassanid dynasty and was rebuilt in the 13th century as a summer palace for the Ilkhanate. Here, the Ilkhanate blended Eastern art with Iranian art, developing a unique Ilkhanate artistic style.

Takht-e Soleymān is the only surviving secular complex of the Ilkhanate. The walls of the Great Khan's palace are decorated with exquisite tiles, serving as a direct reflection of the cultural and artistic exchange between China and Iran in the 14th century. The tiles depict various floral, animal, and human motifs, with themes covering Buddhism, Chinese mythology, pre-Islamic Iran, as well as the Islamic Quran and Shia traditions, showcasing a fusion of multiple cultures. Some of the tiles feature themes from the famous Iranian epic, the Shahnameh, which also reflects the integration of the Ilkhanate into Iranian culture at the time.













13th-14th century Ilkhanate period tiles from the city of Saveh, Markazi province. Saveh was an important city during the Parthian Empire; it was later destroyed by the Mongol army and rebuilt during the Ilkhanate period.











13th-century Gorgan, located on the Caspian coast. Gorgan was an important city during the Sassanid Empire and remained a center for Zoroastrianism after the 8th century. Old Gorgan was destroyed by the Mongols, and the city was relocated to a new site during the Ilkhanate period.









13th-14th century Ilkhanate period tiles from Kashan, Isfahan province. During the Seljuk Empire and Ilkhanate rule from the 12th to the 14th century, Kashan was an important center for the production of high-quality pottery and tiles in Iran. In modern Persian, the word for tile (kashi) is derived from Kashan.











Artifacts from Nishapur, 9th to 11th century.

Nishapur is located on the ancient Silk Road in northeastern Iran and was once one of the four major cities of the Greater Khorasan region. In the 9th century AD, Nishapur became the capital of the Persian Tahirid dynasty. Under the rule of the Persian Samanid dynasty in the 10th century, Nishapur developed into an important cultural and commercial center of the Islamic world, continuing through the 11th-century Seljuk dynasty. Between the 9th and 11th centuries, various cultures and religions converged in Nishapur, where trade routes from Central Asia, China, Iraq, and Egypt intersected. The glazed pottery produced in Nishapur at that time became an important trade commodity in the West, once rivaling Baghdad and Cairo.

In 1221, Nishapur was massacred by the Mongols and subsequently completely destroyed; the former metropolis was buried deep underground. It was not until archaeological excavations by the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York between 1935 and 1940 that countless artifacts and ruins were discovered beneath the farmland. Today, most of the excavated Nishapur artifacts are preserved in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, as well as in museums in Tehran and Mashhad.

According to historical records, Nishapur had at least 38 madrasas before the 11th century. Before the archaeological excavations, no ruins were visible except for a mound in the farmland. Archaeological excavations identified six layers of the Tappeh Madreseh site dating from the 9th to the 13th century; although signs of destruction and subsequent restoration or reconstruction were found in each layer, they maintained a relatively consistent overall layout.

The lowest layer of the madrasa dates back to the 9th century and is believed to have been built by the Tahirid ruler Abdallah ibn Tahir (reigned 828-845). The early spaces were large, but were further subdivided during the Samanid dynasty in the 10th century and the Seljuk dynasty in the 11th century. Overall, however, the madrasa featured a square courtyard in the center, surrounded by more than 20 rooms on three sides, with rectangular colonnades.

9th-century colored plaster murals unearthed at the Tappeh Madreseh site.







9th-century plaster hunting murals unearthed at the Tappeh Takestan site in Nishapur.





9th-10th century pottery with Kufic calligraphy.









Artifacts unearthed from the ancient city of Ray.

Ray is located in the southern suburbs of Tehran and is an important ancient city in northern Iran, referred to as 'Layi' in books such as the History of Yuan. The history of the ancient city of Ray is very old, mentioned in both the Zoroastrian Avesta and the Christian Bible.

In the 640s AD, the Sassanid dynasty used the ancient city of Ray as a base to resist the Arab invasion, but ultimately failed, and Ray came under the rule of the Arab Empire. In the 9th century AD, the Shah Abdol-Azim shrine was built in Ray, becoming an important religious site in Iran.

In 1043, the founder of the Seljuk Empire, Tuğrul Beg, made Ray the capital of the empire and carried out large-scale reconstruction of the ancient city. Under the rule of the Seljuk Empire, Ray reached its peak, with a massive bazaar and very prosperous commerce. Import and export trade, primarily in silk, connected the entire Eurasian continent. Ray was the center of painted pottery production in Iran at the time, and Ray-style painted pottery was an important handicraft of this period.

In 1220, the Mongol army invaded Ray, which was under the rule of the Khwarazmian Empire. Due to the lack of fierce resistance, the Mongols did not massacre the city. Nevertheless, the residents of the city gradually left, and the center of pottery production shifted to the southern city of Kashan. After this, Ray became a ghost town, but its sturdy walls still allowed it to be used as a military fortress during wars. It was not until the construction of the walls of Tehran in the 16th century that Ray was finally abandoned.

8th-9th century dado, located on the lower part of interior walls, serving both to protect the wall and as decoration.





11th-century Seljuk Empire period mihrab.



11th-century Seljuk Empire period circular stucco decoration with Kufic calligraphy.





A fragment of a stucco wall from an 11th-century Seljuk Empire school.



























12th-13th century pottery bowl with typical Seljuk style and overglaze Kufic calligraphy.











12th-13th century pottery bowl with transparent glaze and Taʿlīq Persian calligraphy.



Ray-style silk fabric from the early Islamic period, 7th-10th century.













Others

13th-century Kufic tile, unearthed in the city of Damghan, Semnan province, Iran.



1469 Timurid dynasty wood carving with Thuluth calligraphy.



15th-century Timurid dynasty tile with Thuluth calligraphy, unearthed in the city of Taft, Yazd province.

Collapse Read »

Notes on Visiting the Exhibition at the Museum of the Islamic Era in Iran (Part 2)

Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces Notes on Visiting the Exhibition at the Museum of the Islamic Era in Iran (Part 2). Silk garment made by Moein Mosavar in 1646. It is useful for readers interested in Iran Travel, Islamic Art, Museum Visit.





Silk garment made by Moein Mosavar in 1646



Silk hat from the Safavid dynasty in the 17th century

Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: This travel note introduces Notes on Visiting the Exhibition at the Museum of the Islamic Era in Iran (Part 2). Silk garment made by Moein Mosavar in 1646. It is useful for readers interested in Iran Travel, Islamic Art, Museum Visit.





Silk garment made by Moein Mosavar in 1646



Silk hat from the Safavid dynasty in the 17th century

Collapse Read »

Beijing Ramadan Food Diary: Turkish Ramadan Set Meal

Reposted from the web

Summary: Beijing Ramadan Food Diary: Turkish Ramadan Set Meal is retranslated with Gemini, keeping the original paragraph order and all matching image links.

May 6, Ramadan set menu at the Turkish restaurant Xitingxiuse.

For Iftar, we had the Ramadan set menu at the Turkish restaurant Xitingxiuse in Xinyuanli. There are two types, chicken and lamb, and the offerings change daily. The lamb we had yesterday was Karabakh Pilaf, and the chicken was grilled chicken wings.

Karabakh is a region on the border of Azerbaijan and Armenia. The name comes from the Turkic word 'Kara' (black) and the Persian word 'Bagh' (garden). Currently, it is mostly inhabited by Azerbaijanis. The Karabakh Pilaf we ate was stewed lamb with apricots. The yellow rice was colored with saffron water. When I was traveling in Baku before, I ate this kind of apricot and saffron pilaf while listening to Azerbaijani mugham, so it felt very familiar to eat it this time.

Besides the main course, the set menu included classic red lentil soup. The side dishes were hummus, yogurt with eggplant sauce, carrot and cheese dip, and a nut and bell pepper salad. The staple food was spinach Pide; the spinach and cheese were quite delicious. The drinks were Ayran and black tea. Their Ayran is not particularly sour. Finally, there was rice pudding and semolina for dessert.

Overall, this set menu is quite good value for the embassy district!

















Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: Beijing Ramadan Food Diary: Turkish Ramadan Set Meal is retranslated with Gemini, keeping the original paragraph order and all matching image links.

May 6, Ramadan set menu at the Turkish restaurant Xitingxiuse.

For Iftar, we had the Ramadan set menu at the Turkish restaurant Xitingxiuse in Xinyuanli. There are two types, chicken and lamb, and the offerings change daily. The lamb we had yesterday was Karabakh Pilaf, and the chicken was grilled chicken wings.

Karabakh is a region on the border of Azerbaijan and Armenia. The name comes from the Turkic word 'Kara' (black) and the Persian word 'Bagh' (garden). Currently, it is mostly inhabited by Azerbaijanis. The Karabakh Pilaf we ate was stewed lamb with apricots. The yellow rice was colored with saffron water. When I was traveling in Baku before, I ate this kind of apricot and saffron pilaf while listening to Azerbaijani mugham, so it felt very familiar to eat it this time.

Besides the main course, the set menu included classic red lentil soup. The side dishes were hummus, yogurt with eggplant sauce, carrot and cheese dip, and a nut and bell pepper salad. The staple food was spinach Pide; the spinach and cheese were quite delicious. The drinks were Ayran and black tea. Their Ayran is not particularly sour. Finally, there was rice pudding and semolina for dessert.

Overall, this set menu is quite good value for the embassy district!

















Collapse Read »

Beijing Ramadan Food Diary: Shilihe and Nanxiapo Mosque

Reposted from the web

Summary: Beijing Ramadan Food Diary: Shilihe and Nanxiapo Mosque is retranslated with Gemini, keeping the original paragraph order and all matching image links.

April 19, Iftar at Baizuan in Shilihe

For Iftar today, I had Polo, meat Lagman, Kebab, and pigeon soup at Baizuan in Shilihe, and I also bought naan and pomegranate juice to take away. Old Keman's pomegranate juice has the best taste on the market, although it's still not as good as the freshly squeezed ones at the bazaar.



















April 24, Iftar at the Nanxiapo Mosque

Today's Iftar was at Xiapo. There were so many rich snacks, and then I went home and ate the lamb skewers Zainab grilled.







Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: Beijing Ramadan Food Diary: Shilihe and Nanxiapo Mosque is retranslated with Gemini, keeping the original paragraph order and all matching image links.

April 19, Iftar at Baizuan in Shilihe

For Iftar today, I had Polo, meat Lagman, Kebab, and pigeon soup at Baizuan in Shilihe, and I also bought naan and pomegranate juice to take away. Old Keman's pomegranate juice has the best taste on the market, although it's still not as good as the freshly squeezed ones at the bazaar.



















April 24, Iftar at the Nanxiapo Mosque

Today's Iftar was at Xiapo. There were so many rich snacks, and then I went home and ate the lamb skewers Zainab grilled.







Collapse Read »

Beijing Ramadan Food Diary: Khan Baba and Al Safir

Reposted from the web

Summary: Beijing Ramadan Food Diary: Khan Baba and Al Safir is retranslated with Gemini, keeping the original paragraph order and all matching image links.

April 17, Iftar buffet at the Pakistani restaurant Khan Baba

Today's Iftar was at the Pakistani restaurant Khan Baba in Sanlitun. We had a buffet, and the atmosphere was great. I ate lamb curry, chickpea curry, kebab, roast chicken, fried vegetables, Biryani fried rice, scallion naan, mint and yogurt salad, and pudding. There were quite a few varieties, and they were delicious, especially the naan dipped in curry, which was very satisfying! A reminder to all brothers (dost): you need to book in advance, otherwise there will be no seats.



















April 18, Iftar buffet at the Jordanian restaurant Al Safir

Today's Iftar was a buffet at the Jordanian restaurant Al Safir in Sanyuanqiao. It was a good opportunity to experience Levantine salads and various sauces! I can eat everything I usually can't order all at once. The most classic ones are, of course, hummus and falafel. The most authentic way to eat them is to use pita bread to sandwich various sauces and falafel together. The main courses included fish, lamb chops, chicken rice, and fried chicken. There was also lentil soup and various fruit juices; I drank grape juice. Their lamb chops were so delicious; I feel like they were grilled beforehand? The texture was excellent.

















Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: Beijing Ramadan Food Diary: Khan Baba and Al Safir is retranslated with Gemini, keeping the original paragraph order and all matching image links.

April 17, Iftar buffet at the Pakistani restaurant Khan Baba

Today's Iftar was at the Pakistani restaurant Khan Baba in Sanlitun. We had a buffet, and the atmosphere was great. I ate lamb curry, chickpea curry, kebab, roast chicken, fried vegetables, Biryani fried rice, scallion naan, mint and yogurt salad, and pudding. There were quite a few varieties, and they were delicious, especially the naan dipped in curry, which was very satisfying! A reminder to all brothers (dost): you need to book in advance, otherwise there will be no seats.



















April 18, Iftar buffet at the Jordanian restaurant Al Safir

Today's Iftar was a buffet at the Jordanian restaurant Al Safir in Sanyuanqiao. It was a good opportunity to experience Levantine salads and various sauces! I can eat everything I usually can't order all at once. The most classic ones are, of course, hummus and falafel. The most authentic way to eat them is to use pita bread to sandwich various sauces and falafel together. The main courses included fish, lamb chops, chicken rice, and fried chicken. There was also lentil soup and various fruit juices; I drank grape juice. Their lamb chops were so delicious; I feel like they were grilled beforehand? The texture was excellent.

















Collapse Read »

Beijing Ramadan Food Diary: Turkish Ramadan Set Meal

Reposted from the web

Summary: Beijing Ramadan Food Diary: Turkish Ramadan Set Meal is retranslated with Gemini, keeping the original paragraph order and all matching image links.

May 6, Ramadan set menu at the Turkish restaurant Xitingxiuse.

For Iftar, we had the Ramadan set menu at the Turkish restaurant Xitingxiuse in Xinyuanli. There are two types, chicken and lamb, and the offerings change daily. The lamb we had yesterday was Karabakh Pilaf, and the chicken was grilled chicken wings.

Karabakh is a region on the border of Azerbaijan and Armenia. The name comes from the Turkic word 'Kara' (black) and the Persian word 'Bagh' (garden). Currently, it is mostly inhabited by Azerbaijanis. The Karabakh Pilaf we ate was stewed lamb with apricots. The yellow rice was colored with saffron water. When I was traveling in Baku before, I ate this kind of apricot and saffron pilaf while listening to Azerbaijani mugham, so it felt very familiar to eat it this time.

Besides the main course, the set menu included classic red lentil soup. The side dishes were hummus, yogurt with eggplant sauce, carrot and cheese dip, and a nut and bell pepper salad. The staple food was spinach Pide; the spinach and cheese were quite delicious. The drinks were Ayran and black tea. Their Ayran is not particularly sour. Finally, there was rice pudding and semolina for dessert.

Overall, this set menu is quite good value for the embassy district!

















Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: Beijing Ramadan Food Diary: Turkish Ramadan Set Meal is retranslated with Gemini, keeping the original paragraph order and all matching image links.

May 6, Ramadan set menu at the Turkish restaurant Xitingxiuse.

For Iftar, we had the Ramadan set menu at the Turkish restaurant Xitingxiuse in Xinyuanli. There are two types, chicken and lamb, and the offerings change daily. The lamb we had yesterday was Karabakh Pilaf, and the chicken was grilled chicken wings.

Karabakh is a region on the border of Azerbaijan and Armenia. The name comes from the Turkic word 'Kara' (black) and the Persian word 'Bagh' (garden). Currently, it is mostly inhabited by Azerbaijanis. The Karabakh Pilaf we ate was stewed lamb with apricots. The yellow rice was colored with saffron water. When I was traveling in Baku before, I ate this kind of apricot and saffron pilaf while listening to Azerbaijani mugham, so it felt very familiar to eat it this time.

Besides the main course, the set menu included classic red lentil soup. The side dishes were hummus, yogurt with eggplant sauce, carrot and cheese dip, and a nut and bell pepper salad. The staple food was spinach Pide; the spinach and cheese were quite delicious. The drinks were Ayran and black tea. Their Ayran is not particularly sour. Finally, there was rice pudding and semolina for dessert.

Overall, this set menu is quite good value for the embassy district!

















Collapse Read »

Beijing Ramadan Food Diary: Shilihe and Nanxiapo Mosque

Reposted from the web

Summary: Beijing Ramadan Food Diary: Shilihe and Nanxiapo Mosque is retranslated with Gemini, keeping the original paragraph order and all matching image links.

April 19, Iftar at Baizuan in Shilihe

For Iftar today, I had Polo, meat Lagman, Kebab, and pigeon soup at Baizuan in Shilihe, and I also bought naan and pomegranate juice to take away. Old Keman's pomegranate juice has the best taste on the market, although it's still not as good as the freshly squeezed ones at the bazaar.



















April 24, Iftar at the Nanxiapo Mosque

Today's Iftar was at Xiapo. There were so many rich snacks, and then I went home and ate the lamb skewers Zainab grilled.







Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: Beijing Ramadan Food Diary: Shilihe and Nanxiapo Mosque is retranslated with Gemini, keeping the original paragraph order and all matching image links.

April 19, Iftar at Baizuan in Shilihe

For Iftar today, I had Polo, meat Lagman, Kebab, and pigeon soup at Baizuan in Shilihe, and I also bought naan and pomegranate juice to take away. Old Keman's pomegranate juice has the best taste on the market, although it's still not as good as the freshly squeezed ones at the bazaar.



















April 24, Iftar at the Nanxiapo Mosque

Today's Iftar was at Xiapo. There were so many rich snacks, and then I went home and ate the lamb skewers Zainab grilled.







Collapse Read »

Beijing Ramadan Food Diary: Khan Baba and Al Safir

Reposted from the web

Summary: Beijing Ramadan Food Diary: Khan Baba and Al Safir is retranslated with Gemini, keeping the original paragraph order and all matching image links.

April 17, Iftar buffet at the Pakistani restaurant Khan Baba

Today's Iftar was at the Pakistani restaurant Khan Baba in Sanlitun. We had a buffet, and the atmosphere was great. I ate lamb curry, chickpea curry, kebab, roast chicken, fried vegetables, Biryani fried rice, scallion naan, mint and yogurt salad, and pudding. There were quite a few varieties, and they were delicious, especially the naan dipped in curry, which was very satisfying! A reminder to all brothers (dost): you need to book in advance, otherwise there will be no seats.



















April 18, Iftar buffet at the Jordanian restaurant Al Safir

Today's Iftar was a buffet at the Jordanian restaurant Al Safir in Sanyuanqiao. It was a good opportunity to experience Levantine salads and various sauces! I can eat everything I usually can't order all at once. The most classic ones are, of course, hummus and falafel. The most authentic way to eat them is to use pita bread to sandwich various sauces and falafel together. The main courses included fish, lamb chops, chicken rice, and fried chicken. There was also lentil soup and various fruit juices; I drank grape juice. Their lamb chops were so delicious; I feel like they were grilled beforehand? The texture was excellent.

















Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: Beijing Ramadan Food Diary: Khan Baba and Al Safir is retranslated with Gemini, keeping the original paragraph order and all matching image links.

April 17, Iftar buffet at the Pakistani restaurant Khan Baba

Today's Iftar was at the Pakistani restaurant Khan Baba in Sanlitun. We had a buffet, and the atmosphere was great. I ate lamb curry, chickpea curry, kebab, roast chicken, fried vegetables, Biryani fried rice, scallion naan, mint and yogurt salad, and pudding. There were quite a few varieties, and they were delicious, especially the naan dipped in curry, which was very satisfying! A reminder to all brothers (dost): you need to book in advance, otherwise there will be no seats.



















April 18, Iftar buffet at the Jordanian restaurant Al Safir

Today's Iftar was a buffet at the Jordanian restaurant Al Safir in Sanyuanqiao. It was a good opportunity to experience Levantine salads and various sauces! I can eat everything I usually can't order all at once. The most classic ones are, of course, hummus and falafel. The most authentic way to eat them is to use pita bread to sandwich various sauces and falafel together. The main courses included fish, lamb chops, chicken rice, and fried chicken. There was also lentil soup and various fruit juices; I drank grape juice. Their lamb chops were so delicious; I feel like they were grilled beforehand? The texture was excellent.

















Collapse Read »

Beijing Halal Diary in the Spring of 2021 (Part 2A-1)

Reposted from the web

Summary: Beijing Halal Diary in the Spring of 2021 (Part 2A-1) is retranslated with Gemini, keeping the original paragraph order and all matching image links.

April 26, Iftar at Nandouya Mosque.

Today's Iftar was at Nandouya, with various fruits and snacks. Then we went to the nearby Xinyuezhai to eat stir-fried lamb head meat, small bowls of beef, and tofu in a clay pot. After eating, we took a stroll through the hutong to digest.









April 27, Iftar at Dongzhimenwai Mosque.







April 28, Iftar at Tongjuyuan, a stone-pot barbecue restaurant in Ciqikou.

For Iftar, we went to Tongjuyuan, a newly opened stone-pot barbecue restaurant in Ciqikou. I really enjoyed the black pepper beef stone-pot rice. Their lamb is quite tender. The owner said he has run a beef and lamb shop in Niujie for twenty years and has his own cold storage.











May 6, Ramadan set menu at the Turkish restaurant Xitingxiuse.

For Iftar, we had the Ramadan set menu at the Turkish restaurant Xitingxiuse in Xinyuanli. There are two types, chicken and lamb, and the offerings change daily. The lamb we had yesterday was Karabakh Pilaf, and the chicken was grilled chicken wings.

Karabakh is a region on the border of Azerbaijan and Armenia. The name comes from the Turkic word 'Kara' (black) and the Persian word 'Bagh' (garden). Currently, it is mostly inhabited by Azerbaijanis. The Karabakh Pilaf we ate was stewed lamb with apricots. The yellow rice was colored with saffron water. When I was traveling in Baku before, I ate this kind of apricot and saffron pilaf while listening to Azerbaijani mugham, so it felt very familiar to eat it this time.

Besides the main course, the set menu included classic red lentil soup. The side dishes were hummus, yogurt with eggplant sauce, carrot and cheese dip, and a nut and bell pepper salad. The staple food was spinach Pide; the spinach and cheese were quite delicious. The drinks were Ayran and black tea. Their Ayran is not particularly sour. Finally, there was rice pudding and semolina for dessert.

Overall, this set menu is quite good value for the embassy district!

















Continue Read »
Reposted from the web

Summary: Beijing Halal Diary in the Spring of 2021 (Part 2A-1) is retranslated with Gemini, keeping the original paragraph order and all matching image links.

April 26, Iftar at Nandouya Mosque.

Today's Iftar was at Nandouya, with various fruits and snacks. Then we went to the nearby Xinyuezhai to eat stir-fried lamb head meat, small bowls of beef, and tofu in a clay pot. After eating, we took a stroll through the hutong to digest.









April 27, Iftar at Dongzhimenwai Mosque.







April 28, Iftar at Tongjuyuan, a stone-pot barbecue restaurant in Ciqikou.

For Iftar, we went to Tongjuyuan, a newly opened stone-pot barbecue restaurant in Ciqikou. I really enjoyed the black pepper beef stone-pot rice. Their lamb is quite tender. The owner said he has run a beef and lamb shop in Niujie for twenty years and has his own cold storage.











May 6, Ramadan set menu at the Turkish restaurant Xitingxiuse.

For Iftar, we had the Ramadan set menu at the Turkish restaurant Xitingxiuse in Xinyuanli. There are two types, chicken and lamb, and the offerings change daily. The lamb we had yesterday was Karabakh Pilaf, and the chicken was grilled chicken wings.

Karabakh is a region on the border of Azerbaijan and Armenia. The name comes from the Turkic word 'Kara' (black) and the Persian word 'Bagh' (garden). Currently, it is mostly inhabited by Azerbaijanis. The Karabakh Pilaf we ate was stewed lamb with apricots. The yellow rice was colored with saffron water. When I was traveling in Baku before, I ate this kind of apricot and saffron pilaf while listening to Azerbaijani mugham, so it felt very familiar to eat it this time.

Besides the main course, the set menu included classic red lentil soup. The side dishes were hummus, yogurt with eggplant sauce, carrot and cheese dip, and a nut and bell pepper salad. The staple food was spinach Pide; the spinach and cheese were quite delicious. The drinks were Ayran and black tea. Their Ayran is not particularly sour. Finally, there was rice pudding and semolina for dessert.

Overall, this set menu is quite good value for the embassy district!

















Collapse Read »