Museum Guide: Tunis Bardo National Museum - Palace, Mosaics and History
Reposted from the web
Summary: This article visits the Bardo National Museum in Tunis, a major museum set inside a former palace and known for its historical collections and mosaics. It keeps the original museum details, photographs, object notes, and travel observations for readers interested in Tunisia's cultural heritage.
The National Museum of Tunisia is located inside the Bardo Palace, 4 kilometers west of the old Medina. The palace was first built in the 15th century. After the Ottoman dynasty took over in the 16th century, it was rebuilt and expanded many times, eventually becoming the main residence of the Husainid Beys (1705-1957).
The Husainid dynasty was a Beylik nominally under the Ottoman Empire. Its founder, Husain, was an Ottoman officer of Greek Cretan descent. He was granted the title of Bey by the Ottoman Sultan in 1705 and began his rule over Tunisia. After the 19th century, the Husainid dynasty began trading heavily with European merchants, and in 1861, they issued the first constitution in the Arab world. However, economic decline and social unrest in the late 19th century led to Tunisia becoming a French protectorate in 1881.
In 1882, Tunisia and France jointly established the Tunisian Office of Antiquities and Arts, which immediately began converting the old harem of the Bardo Palace into a museum. After six years of restoration and collecting, the museum officially opened in 1888.
The museum houses the Small Palace, built by Husain II Bey between 1824 and 1835. The palace was built in the Andalusian Moorish style, featuring a T-shaped main hall and a central courtyard with a pool.
Tile and plaster decorations inside the Small Palace of Husain II.
The reception hall and harem built by Muhammad III Bey between 1859 and 1864 feature both Italian and Tunisian styles.
Muhammad III Bey issued the first written constitution in the Arab world in 1861, which separated executive, legislative, and judicial powers and guaranteed equal rights for Muslims, Christians, and Jews. After the new constitution was issued, European merchants and secular schools began to appear in Tunisia.
The Blue Quran manuscript in the National Museum of Tunisia is a very famous religious manuscript in the world. This scripture uses parchment dyed with indigo, with ink outlining the text and gold leaf applied on top. The calligraphy is in the early Kufic script, which lacks sharp angles and vowel marks.
The origin of the Blue Quran is still highly debated, with theories pointing to Kairouan in Tunisia, Cordoba in Spain, Mashhad in Iran, or Iraq, dating back to the 9th or 10th century. The records say the Blue Quran was kept in the Great Mosque of Kairouan after the 14th century. It was broken up during the Ottoman period, but most of it remains in Kairouan, while other parts are held by major museums and collectors.
Quran manuscripts from the 8th to 12th centuries held by the Great Mosque of Kairouan in Tunisia.
The library of the Great Mosque of Kairouan holds a large number of manuscripts and established a catalog as early as the 13th century. to scriptures, these manuscripts include books related to the Maliki school of thought, which are also the oldest documents of the Maliki school.
Tunisian Qallaline tiles from the 17th and 18th centuries. These tiles are named after the Qallaline region of Tunisia. They were influenced by Ottoman tile art but developed their own unique style.
A marble carving from the 10th-century Fatimid period in Mahdia, Tunisia, depicting a Fatimid prince. A glazed bowl with Kufic script from the Fatimid dynasty period in Mahdia.
The ancient city of Mahdia was built by the Fatimid dynasty between 916 and 921, and it became the capital of the Tunisia region after its completion. Before this, the capital of the Tunisia region was Kairouan, which was dominated by Sunnis. Because of this, the Shia Fatimid dynasty built a new capital on the Mediterranean coast, far away from Kairouan. Once finished, Mahdia included thick city walls, palaces, a harbor, and a great mosque. Unfortunately, none of the surface buildings survived. Now, you can only see artifacts unearthed through archaeological excavations in museums.
Exquisite 11th-century marble carvings with Kufic script.
A 10th-century wood carving from Egypt.
A 13th to 16th-century tombstone from Tunisia where you can see the local style of Arabic calligraphy.
A traditional Tunisian women's headpiece.
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Summary: This article visits the Bardo National Museum in Tunis, a major museum set inside a former palace and known for its historical collections and mosaics. It keeps the original museum details, photographs, object notes, and travel observations for readers interested in Tunisia's cultural heritage.
The National Museum of Tunisia is located inside the Bardo Palace, 4 kilometers west of the old Medina. The palace was first built in the 15th century. After the Ottoman dynasty took over in the 16th century, it was rebuilt and expanded many times, eventually becoming the main residence of the Husainid Beys (1705-1957).
The Husainid dynasty was a Beylik nominally under the Ottoman Empire. Its founder, Husain, was an Ottoman officer of Greek Cretan descent. He was granted the title of Bey by the Ottoman Sultan in 1705 and began his rule over Tunisia. After the 19th century, the Husainid dynasty began trading heavily with European merchants, and in 1861, they issued the first constitution in the Arab world. However, economic decline and social unrest in the late 19th century led to Tunisia becoming a French protectorate in 1881.
In 1882, Tunisia and France jointly established the Tunisian Office of Antiquities and Arts, which immediately began converting the old harem of the Bardo Palace into a museum. After six years of restoration and collecting, the museum officially opened in 1888.
The museum houses the Small Palace, built by Husain II Bey between 1824 and 1835. The palace was built in the Andalusian Moorish style, featuring a T-shaped main hall and a central courtyard with a pool.
Tile and plaster decorations inside the Small Palace of Husain II.
The reception hall and harem built by Muhammad III Bey between 1859 and 1864 feature both Italian and Tunisian styles.
Muhammad III Bey issued the first written constitution in the Arab world in 1861, which separated executive, legislative, and judicial powers and guaranteed equal rights for Muslims, Christians, and Jews. After the new constitution was issued, European merchants and secular schools began to appear in Tunisia.
The Blue Quran manuscript in the National Museum of Tunisia is a very famous religious manuscript in the world. This scripture uses parchment dyed with indigo, with ink outlining the text and gold leaf applied on top. The calligraphy is in the early Kufic script, which lacks sharp angles and vowel marks.
The origin of the Blue Quran is still highly debated, with theories pointing to Kairouan in Tunisia, Cordoba in Spain, Mashhad in Iran, or Iraq, dating back to the 9th or 10th century. The records say the Blue Quran was kept in the Great Mosque of Kairouan after the 14th century. It was broken up during the Ottoman period, but most of it remains in Kairouan, while other parts are held by major museums and collectors.
Quran manuscripts from the 8th to 12th centuries held by the Great Mosque of Kairouan in Tunisia.
The library of the Great Mosque of Kairouan holds a large number of manuscripts and established a catalog as early as the 13th century. to scriptures, these manuscripts include books related to the Maliki school of thought, which are also the oldest documents of the Maliki school.
Tunisian Qallaline tiles from the 17th and 18th centuries. These tiles are named after the Qallaline region of Tunisia. They were influenced by Ottoman tile art but developed their own unique style.
A marble carving from the 10th-century Fatimid period in Mahdia, Tunisia, depicting a Fatimid prince. A glazed bowl with Kufic script from the Fatimid dynasty period in Mahdia.
The ancient city of Mahdia was built by the Fatimid dynasty between 916 and 921, and it became the capital of the Tunisia region after its completion. Before this, the capital of the Tunisia region was Kairouan, which was dominated by Sunnis. Because of this, the Shia Fatimid dynasty built a new capital on the Mediterranean coast, far away from Kairouan. Once finished, Mahdia included thick city walls, palaces, a harbor, and a great mosque. Unfortunately, none of the surface buildings survived. Now, you can only see artifacts unearthed through archaeological excavations in museums.
Exquisite 11th-century marble carvings with Kufic script.
A 10th-century wood carving from Egypt.
A 13th to 16th-century tombstone from Tunisia where you can see the local style of Arabic calligraphy.
A traditional Tunisian women's headpiece.
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Mosque Travel Guide: Malacca - Eight Historic Mosques (Part 1)
Reposted from the web
Summary: This first part introduces eight historic mosques in Malacca, including their dates, layouts, and role in the city's Muslim community. It keeps the original mosque names, photographs, architectural details, and travel observations for readers interested in Malaysia's Islamic heritage.
Kampung Hulu Mosque: 1728.
Tengkera Small Mosque minaret (bangker): 1728.
Tengkera Mosque: 1782.
Kampung Kling Mosque: 1748.
Bukit Cina Mosque: 1865.
Pengkalan Rama Mosque: first built in the 1730s, rebuilt in 1917.
Duyong Mosque: 1859.
Serkam Pantai Mosque: 1853.
Peringgit Mosque: first built in 1726, rebuilt in 1868.
Kampung Hulu Mosque.
After the Portuguese occupied Malacca, they destroyed all the mosques of the Malacca Sultanate and promoted Catholicism in the city. However, the Portuguese were not successful, and Catholicism did not have much influence in Malacca until the Dutch took over.
The Dutch took a more tolerant approach toward Malacca and allowed the faith to spread there. In 1728, the Dutch East India Company commissioned a Chinese Muslim, Dato' Samsuddin Bin Arom, to build a new mosque near the site of an old one destroyed by the Portuguese. This became the Kampung Hulu Mosque (Masjid Kampung Hulu), the oldest surviving mosque in Malacca.
The main prayer hall of Kampung Hulu Mosque uses the traditional Javanese Tajug multi-layered pyramid roof. The decoration at the very top is called a Mustoko or Memolo in Javanese. This roof structure leaves space between the upper and middle layers for ventilation and light, which adapts well to the humid and rainy tropical climate.
Unlike traditional all-wood Javanese mosques, Kampung Hulu Mosque is built of brick and stone with plaster-coated roofs, an influence from Dutch colonial architecture. the tiles and floor bricks inside the mosque were all imported from China, and the patterns on the windows also show Chinese influence.
A traditional drum called a Beduk is placed above the main gate. Early mosques in Southeast Asia used drums to call people to prayer. Today, many mosques still use drums to call for prayer and to signal the breaking of the fast during Jumu'ah and Ramadan.
The minaret (bangker) looks like a lighthouse, which was a first for the Malay Peninsula, as there was no previous tradition of building minarets there. On the island of Java, the Great Mosque of Banten, built in 1632, was the first to feature a lighthouse-style minaret designed and built by a Chinese man named Cek-ban-cut.
The minbar inside the main hall of Kampung Hulu Mosque has rich patterns and is in the typical Javanese throne style.
I performed the Dhuhr and Maghrib namaz at Kampung Hulu Mosque and also attended the night praise sessions during the Mawlid. There are two cannons at the entrance of the main hall, which are used during the Eid festival. The number '1211' is engraved on the cannon barrel, which corresponds to the year 1796 in the Gregorian calendar.
The minaret (bangke lou) of the Tengkera Small Mosque.
After the Kampung Hulu Mosque was built, an Indian merchant named Muhammad Salleh funded the construction of a small mosque (Surau Tengkera) on Tengkera Street. Tengkera comes from the Portuguese word 'tranquerah,' meaning 'fortress,' as there was once a defensive wall built by the Portuguese here. The Tengkera Small Mosque was also built in 1728. It was originally a wooden structure with pillars made of ironwood (belian) from Pontianak, Kalimantan, and a roof covered with nipa palm leaves.
After the Tengkera Mosque (Masjid Tengkera) was completed in 1782, the Tengkera Small Mosque was abandoned, and today only the minaret remains. Unlike the Kampung Hulu Mosque, the minaret of the Tengkera Small Mosque is modeled after a Chinese pagoda. This was the first of its kind on the Malay Peninsula and has become a major feature of Malacca today.
Tengkera Mosque.
In 1782, the Tengkera Mosque (Masjid Tengkera) was completed to the west of the Tengkera Small Mosque. The Tengkera Mosque also features a traditional Javanese three-tiered pyramid roof (bumbung tiga lapis), and the main hall is supported by four ironwood pillars from Kalimantan. After two renovations in 1890 and 1910, the current Tengkera Mosque has brick walls and a tiled roof. The minaret of the Tengkera Mosque, like that of the Tengkera Small Mosque, is a Chinese-style pagoda structure and serves as a continuation of the earlier minaret.
The exquisite minbar (pulpit) of the Tengkera Mosque is also in the Javanese throne style.
Kampung Kling Mosque.
The Kampung Kling Mosque (Masjid Kampong Kling) is located in the center of Malacca city. It was first built by Indian merchants in 1748 and was converted from a wooden structure to the current brick structure in 1872. The mosque features a traditional Javanese three-tiered pyramid roof (bumbung tiga lapis). The classical Corinthian columns between the main hall and the prayer niche (mihrab), as well as the plaster walls, show the influence of Dutch colonists. The Chinese tiles on the roof, floor, and walls, along with the wood carvings on the doors and windows, reflect Chinese influence.
Legend has it that during the Malacca Sultanate, Kampung Kling was a settlement for Indian Muslim merchants. 'Kling' was the historical term used in the Malay Archipelago for Indians, especially Tamils. On a 1690 map of Malacca, this area is marked as 'Mosquée de Maures' (Moorish Mosque), but its relationship to the Kampung Kling Mosque is uncertain. In the 18th century, this was still a village for South Indian immigrants. After the rubber industry in Malacca boomed in the 19th and early 20th centuries, it became a residential area for Chinese people working in the rubber industry. Today, the mosque is surrounded by Chinese shophouses.
The Kampung Kling Mosque has a beautiful minbar and wood carvings on its doors and windows; the minbar is also in the Javanese throne style.
Sanbao Hill Mosque.
Bukit Cina Mosque (Masjid Bukit Cina), also called Al-Hamideen Mosque, was built in 1865. A new main hall was added in 1978, but the layout of the original old hall remains. The old hall features a traditional Javanese-style three-tiered pyramid roof (bumbung tiga lapis) and four wooden pillars (Soko Guru). Each pillar connects to the foundation with a stone base called Umpak. These bases keep the wood from soaking up groundwater and help absorb shock during earthquakes.
Pengkalan Rama Mosque
Pengkalan Rama Mosque was first built in the 1730s. Dato Penghulu Abdul Ghani funded its renovation in 1917. A new main hall was added in 2004, but it still keeps the traditional Javanese-style three-tiered pyramid roof (bumbung tiga lapis) and four wooden pillars (Soko Guru) of the old hall.
Duyong Mosque
Duyong Mosque (Masjid Duyong) was built in 1850 under the leadership of Wan Chilek. It was originally made of laterite and wood, with a roof made of Chinese and Dutch tiles. In 1908, a minaret (bangkar) was added, blending the styles of a Chinese pagoda and a Western lighthouse.
The mosque underwent several renovations and expansions in 1967, 1973, and 1976. It suffered a fire in 1982 and was later restored. In 2002, the Department of Museums and Antiquities of Malaysia carried out protective repairs on the site.
Telok Mas Mosque
At Telok Mas Mosque (Masjid Telok Mas Al-Khairiah) for namaz. Telok Mas Mosque was built in 1853. During construction, the beams and roof materials were cut from local forests and hauled by water buffalo. The wall stones were mined from reefs near Big Island (Pulau Besar) and transported by sampan boats. The main gate still bears an inscription from the year 1269 of the Hijri calendar, which is 1853 in the Gregorian calendar. A Chinese pagoda-style minaret (bangkar) was added in 1913. Its architectural style is basically the same as the mosques in Kampung Kling and Tengkera.
The minbar pulpit at Telok Mas Mosque is carved with the year 1286 of the Hijri calendar, or 1869 in the Gregorian calendar, and is a classic Javanese throne style.
Peringgit Mosque
Peringgit Mosque (Masjid Peringgit) was first built in 1726 but was later destroyed. It was rebuilt in 1868. Peringgi is the Malay name for the Portuguese, as a Portuguese fort once stood here. Peringgit Mosque was originally built with granite and Dutch bricks, with wooden doors and windows. The roof is a traditional Javanese three-tiered pyramid (bumbung tiga lapis). The bottom layer is covered with Chinese tiles, while the middle and top layers use Dutch tiles. The very top decoration is carved from reef stone.
Following later renovations, the Dutch bricks of Peringgit Mosque were covered with cement, and the Chinese and Dutch tiles were replaced with modern ones. In 2002, the Southern Region Department of Museums and Antiquities of Malaysia restored the site.
Collapse Read »
Summary: This first part introduces eight historic mosques in Malacca, including their dates, layouts, and role in the city's Muslim community. It keeps the original mosque names, photographs, architectural details, and travel observations for readers interested in Malaysia's Islamic heritage.
Kampung Hulu Mosque: 1728.
Tengkera Small Mosque minaret (bangker): 1728.
Tengkera Mosque: 1782.
Kampung Kling Mosque: 1748.
Bukit Cina Mosque: 1865.
Pengkalan Rama Mosque: first built in the 1730s, rebuilt in 1917.
Duyong Mosque: 1859.
Serkam Pantai Mosque: 1853.
Peringgit Mosque: first built in 1726, rebuilt in 1868.
Kampung Hulu Mosque.
After the Portuguese occupied Malacca, they destroyed all the mosques of the Malacca Sultanate and promoted Catholicism in the city. However, the Portuguese were not successful, and Catholicism did not have much influence in Malacca until the Dutch took over.
The Dutch took a more tolerant approach toward Malacca and allowed the faith to spread there. In 1728, the Dutch East India Company commissioned a Chinese Muslim, Dato' Samsuddin Bin Arom, to build a new mosque near the site of an old one destroyed by the Portuguese. This became the Kampung Hulu Mosque (Masjid Kampung Hulu), the oldest surviving mosque in Malacca.
The main prayer hall of Kampung Hulu Mosque uses the traditional Javanese Tajug multi-layered pyramid roof. The decoration at the very top is called a Mustoko or Memolo in Javanese. This roof structure leaves space between the upper and middle layers for ventilation and light, which adapts well to the humid and rainy tropical climate.
Unlike traditional all-wood Javanese mosques, Kampung Hulu Mosque is built of brick and stone with plaster-coated roofs, an influence from Dutch colonial architecture. the tiles and floor bricks inside the mosque were all imported from China, and the patterns on the windows also show Chinese influence.
A traditional drum called a Beduk is placed above the main gate. Early mosques in Southeast Asia used drums to call people to prayer. Today, many mosques still use drums to call for prayer and to signal the breaking of the fast during Jumu'ah and Ramadan.
The minaret (bangker) looks like a lighthouse, which was a first for the Malay Peninsula, as there was no previous tradition of building minarets there. On the island of Java, the Great Mosque of Banten, built in 1632, was the first to feature a lighthouse-style minaret designed and built by a Chinese man named Cek-ban-cut.
The minbar inside the main hall of Kampung Hulu Mosque has rich patterns and is in the typical Javanese throne style.
I performed the Dhuhr and Maghrib namaz at Kampung Hulu Mosque and also attended the night praise sessions during the Mawlid. There are two cannons at the entrance of the main hall, which are used during the Eid festival. The number '1211' is engraved on the cannon barrel, which corresponds to the year 1796 in the Gregorian calendar.
The minaret (bangke lou) of the Tengkera Small Mosque.
After the Kampung Hulu Mosque was built, an Indian merchant named Muhammad Salleh funded the construction of a small mosque (Surau Tengkera) on Tengkera Street. Tengkera comes from the Portuguese word 'tranquerah,' meaning 'fortress,' as there was once a defensive wall built by the Portuguese here. The Tengkera Small Mosque was also built in 1728. It was originally a wooden structure with pillars made of ironwood (belian) from Pontianak, Kalimantan, and a roof covered with nipa palm leaves.
After the Tengkera Mosque (Masjid Tengkera) was completed in 1782, the Tengkera Small Mosque was abandoned, and today only the minaret remains. Unlike the Kampung Hulu Mosque, the minaret of the Tengkera Small Mosque is modeled after a Chinese pagoda. This was the first of its kind on the Malay Peninsula and has become a major feature of Malacca today.
Tengkera Mosque.
In 1782, the Tengkera Mosque (Masjid Tengkera) was completed to the west of the Tengkera Small Mosque. The Tengkera Mosque also features a traditional Javanese three-tiered pyramid roof (bumbung tiga lapis), and the main hall is supported by four ironwood pillars from Kalimantan. After two renovations in 1890 and 1910, the current Tengkera Mosque has brick walls and a tiled roof. The minaret of the Tengkera Mosque, like that of the Tengkera Small Mosque, is a Chinese-style pagoda structure and serves as a continuation of the earlier minaret.
The exquisite minbar (pulpit) of the Tengkera Mosque is also in the Javanese throne style.
Kampung Kling Mosque.
The Kampung Kling Mosque (Masjid Kampong Kling) is located in the center of Malacca city. It was first built by Indian merchants in 1748 and was converted from a wooden structure to the current brick structure in 1872. The mosque features a traditional Javanese three-tiered pyramid roof (bumbung tiga lapis). The classical Corinthian columns between the main hall and the prayer niche (mihrab), as well as the plaster walls, show the influence of Dutch colonists. The Chinese tiles on the roof, floor, and walls, along with the wood carvings on the doors and windows, reflect Chinese influence.
Legend has it that during the Malacca Sultanate, Kampung Kling was a settlement for Indian Muslim merchants. 'Kling' was the historical term used in the Malay Archipelago for Indians, especially Tamils. On a 1690 map of Malacca, this area is marked as 'Mosquée de Maures' (Moorish Mosque), but its relationship to the Kampung Kling Mosque is uncertain. In the 18th century, this was still a village for South Indian immigrants. After the rubber industry in Malacca boomed in the 19th and early 20th centuries, it became a residential area for Chinese people working in the rubber industry. Today, the mosque is surrounded by Chinese shophouses.
The Kampung Kling Mosque has a beautiful minbar and wood carvings on its doors and windows; the minbar is also in the Javanese throne style.
Sanbao Hill Mosque.
Bukit Cina Mosque (Masjid Bukit Cina), also called Al-Hamideen Mosque, was built in 1865. A new main hall was added in 1978, but the layout of the original old hall remains. The old hall features a traditional Javanese-style three-tiered pyramid roof (bumbung tiga lapis) and four wooden pillars (Soko Guru). Each pillar connects to the foundation with a stone base called Umpak. These bases keep the wood from soaking up groundwater and help absorb shock during earthquakes.
Pengkalan Rama Mosque
Pengkalan Rama Mosque was first built in the 1730s. Dato Penghulu Abdul Ghani funded its renovation in 1917. A new main hall was added in 2004, but it still keeps the traditional Javanese-style three-tiered pyramid roof (bumbung tiga lapis) and four wooden pillars (Soko Guru) of the old hall.
Duyong Mosque
Duyong Mosque (Masjid Duyong) was built in 1850 under the leadership of Wan Chilek. It was originally made of laterite and wood, with a roof made of Chinese and Dutch tiles. In 1908, a minaret (bangkar) was added, blending the styles of a Chinese pagoda and a Western lighthouse.
The mosque underwent several renovations and expansions in 1967, 1973, and 1976. It suffered a fire in 1982 and was later restored. In 2002, the Department of Museums and Antiquities of Malaysia carried out protective repairs on the site.
Telok Mas Mosque
At Telok Mas Mosque (Masjid Telok Mas Al-Khairiah) for namaz. Telok Mas Mosque was built in 1853. During construction, the beams and roof materials were cut from local forests and hauled by water buffalo. The wall stones were mined from reefs near Big Island (Pulau Besar) and transported by sampan boats. The main gate still bears an inscription from the year 1269 of the Hijri calendar, which is 1853 in the Gregorian calendar. A Chinese pagoda-style minaret (bangkar) was added in 1913. Its architectural style is basically the same as the mosques in Kampung Kling and Tengkera.
The minbar pulpit at Telok Mas Mosque is carved with the year 1286 of the Hijri calendar, or 1869 in the Gregorian calendar, and is a classic Javanese throne style.
Peringgit Mosque
Peringgit Mosque (Masjid Peringgit) was first built in 1726 but was later destroyed. It was rebuilt in 1868. Peringgi is the Malay name for the Portuguese, as a Portuguese fort once stood here. Peringgit Mosque was originally built with granite and Dutch bricks, with wooden doors and windows. The roof is a traditional Javanese three-tiered pyramid (bumbung tiga lapis). The bottom layer is covered with Chinese tiles, while the middle and top layers use Dutch tiles. The very top decoration is carved from reef stone.
Following later renovations, the Dutch bricks of Peringgit Mosque were covered with cement, and the Chinese and Dutch tiles were replaced with modern ones. In 2002, the Southern Region Department of Museums and Antiquities of Malaysia restored the site.
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Mosque Travel Guide: Malacca - Eight Historic Mosques (Part 2)
Reposted from the web
Summary: This second part continues a visit to eight historic mosques in Malacca, with attention to architecture, dates, and local Muslim heritage. It keeps the original mosque names, photographs, street details, and historical notes for readers interested in Islamic heritage in Malaysia.
Collapse Read »
Summary: This second part continues a visit to eight historic mosques in Malacca, with attention to architecture, dates, and local Muslim heritage. It keeps the original mosque names, photographs, street details, and historical notes for readers interested in Islamic heritage in Malaysia.
Collapse Read »
Halal Food Guide: Beijing - 10 Muslim Restaurants Worth Trying (Part 2)
Reposted from the web
Summary: This second Beijing halal restaurant guide covers ten Muslim restaurants worth trying, with practical notes on dishes, locations, and everyday eating. It keeps the original restaurant names, dishes, photographs, and food comments for readers looking for halal meals in Beijing.
10 halal restaurants in Beijing worth visiting, part one: Lahore Courtyard, Maimai Red Beef Sliced Noodles, Hulun Aile, Tribe Garden, Xing Laosi Meatball Spicy Soup, Jinying Meatball Soup, Hotan Canteen Open-Air Night Market, BRBR Blue Harbor Branch, Gulou Noodles, and Xilaishun.
10 new restaurants in Beijing this year: Sultan Turkish Restaurant Beijing Branch, Fang Zhongshan Spicy Soup Hujialou Branch, Zhang Dahui Spicy Soup, Yuwei Xiaoyao Town Spicy Soup, Qinyuanzhai Fresh Braised Duck Shop, Subuha Almond Tofu Jiaodaokou Branch, Shawarma City, Tomato Casual Western Restaurant Super Hopson One Branch, and Yali Jiji Courtyard.
Part two restaurants: Alkhaleej Mandi Kitchen, Xinjiang Mansion Xihan Meatball Soup, Xinjiang Mansion Lobby Altay Afternoon Tea, Muhejia Revolving Hot Pot Mudanyuan Branch, Nazilan at Ritan Street, Baoyuanzhai Heping Guoju Branch, Samosa China-Pakistan Friendship Restaurant Sanlitun Branch, Deshengmenwai Maye Roast Duck, Benjiebi Restaurant, and Shihu Cheng Resort.
Alkhaleej Mandi Kitchen.
The newly opened Alkhaleej Mandi Kitchen in Sanlitun SOHO takes its name from 'Khaleej,' which means the Persian Gulf. They specialize in Arabian Peninsula flavors and serve a variety of Yemeni dishes. After Guangzhou, Yiwu, and Tianjin, Beijing is now the fourth city in China to have Yemeni food.
I ordered the clay pot stew (saltah) with Arabic flatbread (mulawah), which is a classic Yemeni brunch combination. After ordering, they brought out meat broth, cucumber yogurt, lemon, onions, and spicy sauce (sahawiq), which is very authentic. Sahawiq is a signature Yemeni spicy sauce made with fresh chili peppers, olive oil, cilantro, garlic, salt, cumin, and parsley for a unique taste.
Saltah is a classic Yemeni stew that originated from the charity kitchens (imaret) during the Ottoman Empire. Back then, wealthy people or the mosque would stew leftovers in a clay pot, and this meat and vegetable dish became known as saltah. Saltah is popular in northern Yemen, and the main ingredient is meat stew (maraq), which is cooked until very tender, along with potatoes and fenugreek. Fenugreek is what people in Northwest China often call fragrant beans (xiangdouzi) or bitter beans (kudouzi). People in the Northwest dry the leaves and grind them into powder to steam buns, while Yemenis grind the seeds to stew with meat. Fenugreek seeds expand when they meet water and easily foam up when stirred in a bowl.
Their Arabic flatbread is truly large, crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. Arabic flatbread is traditionally baked in an earthen oven (tannur) and is full of wheat aroma. You can tear the bread apart to scoop up the clay pot stew with the spicy sauce, or soak it in the meat broth; both ways are delicious.
In short, their Yemeni food is very authentic. I was very satisfied with the meal. Be careful, as the clay pot stew is very hot. Eat slowly so you don't burn your tongue.
Xinjiang Mansion Xihan Meatball Soup.
After visiting the zoo on Sunday afternoon, we had Xihan meatball soup at Xinjiang Mansion. It only takes about ten minutes to walk from the zoo to Xinjiang Mansion, which is very convenient.
I didn't expect this place to be so popular now. Even arriving between two and three in the afternoon, there were still so many people. It seems everyone is living on Xinjiang time. We ordered meatball soup (wanzi tang), layered steamed buns (youtazi), smoked horse sausage (xun machang), spicy numbing chicken (jiaoma ji), pit-roasted lamb chops (nangkeng yangpai), and rose-flavored flatbread (meigui nang).
First, their spicy numbing chicken is very authentic. The meat is firm because they use layer hens instead of broilers. It is also very numbing. I ate one piece and my whole mouth started tingling. Their pit-roasted lamb chops are also delicious and the meat is very tender. They use a southern Xinjiang method of brushing it with salt water instead of sauce or egg wash. This kind of salt-water roasting really tests the quality of the meat. Their meatball soup is a bit more ordinary by comparison. The broth tastes great, but there are very few meat slices and meatballs. Their layered steamed buns are made with fenugreek powder (xiangdou fen), which is my first time trying.
Altay afternoon tea in the lobby of the Xinjiang Building.
I took my son to the zoo on Sunday and stopped by the Xinjiang Building lobby for some Altay afternoon tea. The set includes salty milk tea, milk skin (naipi), milk strips (naitiao), roasted millet (chaomi), apricot jam, strawberry jam, cream, and fried dough fritters (baorsak). The fried dough fritters are served hot. They taste great when you break them open and add jam. Adding roasted millet and milk skin to the milk tea makes it very rich. Now you can enjoy a Kazakh milk tea house experience without going back to Urumqi, though the milk in Beijing isn't quite as fresh as in Xinjiang.
They also have the popular 'nang cup' (wonangfei) coffee. You can get it with coffee, yogurt, or tea. The sesame flatbread (nang) itself tastes good, and you can buy the cups separately.
Muhejia Rotating Hot Pot Mudanyuan branch.
After the Mudanyuan Muhejia Rotating Hot Pot was demolished, it reopened in the storefronts of the building across the street. The new shop has a better environment, and the dishes remain the same. We ordered mushroom broth, nourishing broth, tomato broth, and pickled cabbage broth, and we had a very comfortable meal.
Nazilan at Ritan Shangjie.
We originally wanted to go to Nazilan at Ritan Shangjie for Xinjiang-style clay pot hot pot (they should be the only place in Beijing that has it), but when we arrived, they said it wasn't available, so we didn't get to eat it. So we ordered spicy chicken (lazi ji), minced meat noodles (suirou banmian), meat dumplings (ququr), grilled meat (kaorou), liver wrapped in fat (youbao gan), minced meat thin pancakes (suirou bing), and yogurt.
The quality was highly praised by our whole family. Everyone thought their spicy chicken was well-made, even better than Yangle Spicy Chicken in Urumqi. The chicken had no gamey smell and was very spicy.
The noodles are made with egg-infused dough and topped with a fried egg. The texture of the hand-pulled noodles is great, and the minced meat is very fragrant. It would be considered very good noodles even in Urumqi.
The meat dumplings were for Suleiman. They were very authentic, with thin skins and plenty of meat. Suleiman ate over a dozen in one go.
Their grilled meat (kaorou) and liver wrapped in fat (youbaogan) are both very tender and seasoned just right.
Their yogurt is likely the best on the entire Ritan Shangjie street. It is rich, creamy, and tangy, far better than the neighboring Xinjiang restaurants, and it pairs perfectly with the spicy chicken (lazi ji). I honestly don't think the Xinjiang-brand yogurts sold in Beijing's supermarkets and dairy shops represent the true quality of real Xinjiang yogurt. If you want to taste the kind of yogurt Xinjiang locals drink every day, this place is a pretty good choice.
Also, when we went around 6 or 7 p.m. on Sunday, the atmosphere was quite nice. Everyone was eating quietly, which made for a very comfortable experience. Some of the other Xinjiang restaurants nearby get very noisy at night with people drinking and talking loudly, which can be a bit overwhelming while you eat.
Baoyuanzhai at Heping Guoju
Baoyuanzhai, a halal pastry shop from Wanziying in Chaoyang District, has opened a branch at Heping Guoju on the second basement floor of the Wangfujing Department Store. The decor is very old-school. They have a variety of traditional and modern pastries, including both sugar-free and regular options. They also have savory and scallion-flavored walnut cookies (taosu). You can buy them individually or in gift boxes, making them perfect for tourists to try.
As the weather gets cooler, there are fewer people in Heping Guoju than before, making it a better time to bring kids. There is a steam locomotive and a 'Night Shanghai' stage, both of which kept my son entertained for a long time.
Samosa China-Pakistan Friendship Restaurant, Sanlitun Branch
At noon, I went to the newly opened Samosa China-Pakistan Friendship Restaurant in Sanlitun, located on Dongzhimen Outer Street, for the buffet. The restaurant is on the first floor of the Atour Hotel. They mainly serve various curries, with biryani fried rice, garlic naan, and butter naan as staples. For dessert, they have halwa (a sweet confection), and their classic drink is a mint cooler.
Their most unique feature is the grilled meat buffet! Once the beef skewers are grilled, they bring them to each table before hanging them up. They also have a secret menu item: extra-large lamb skewers, which are grilled until very tender and delicious.
Since I brought my son, we picked out a few non-spicy options for him. His favorites were the tikka boti (clay oven grilled chicken chunks) and the halwa. Halwa originated in Persia and later spread throughout the Middle East and South Asia. South Asian halwa is made from semolina. It has a smooth, buttery texture and is just the right level of sweet.
Their spinach and paneer (milk curd) is also worth trying. Paneer is a type of South Asian fresh cheese. The name comes from the Persian word 'panir' for cheese. To make it, you add lemon, vinegar, or dahi (yogurt) to hot milk, strain the curds through a cloth, and soak them in cold water to create fresh paneer. Paneer has a texture similar to tofu and isn't very sour, making it great for children.
Maye Roast Duck outside Deshengmen
Traffic outside Deshengmen forced me to turn into a small alley in Dewai Guanxiang, where I unexpectedly found a newly opened roast duck shop right next to Pamir Restaurant (Pamir Shifu). Halal roast duck is definitely rare, so I quickly bought half a duck to try, along with salt and pepper duck frame and salt-water duck liver. They only have a service window, so you have to take the food home to eat.
I tried the roast duck after getting home; it tasted pretty good, was all lean meat, and had a slightly sweet flavor. At noon, I ordered their half-set roast duck again. It was much cheaper with a discount on Meituan, making it a great value and perfect for a work lunch. The only downside is that delivery makes the skin soggy, so it definitely isn't as fragrant as when it's freshly made.
Benjiebi Restaurant
I took Suleiman shopping at the Kids' City in Solana, and afterward, we had lunch at the South Asian restaurant Benjiebi on Lucky Street, right across from Solana. The owner is from Bangladesh, and the food leans toward North Indian style. Compared to the long lines at restaurants inside Solana, the places on Lucky Street are much less crowded.
Benjiebi is a long-standing South Asian spot in Beijing. I used to go there often for their weekday lunch set, which is a great deal. They now offer a Liangma River night cruise package, which we want to try if we get the chance.
They thoughtfully mark all the dishes suitable for children on their menu. We ordered grilled broccoli with cheese (Broccolli phool Malai Paneer), butter chicken (Murgh Butter Chicken), saffron rice, mint whole-wheat flatbread (Pudina Wholewheat Paratha), mint rose syrup (Mint Roohafza), and salty yogurt drink (Lassi Salty).
The paneer in the grilled cheese dish is a South Asian fresh cheese. The name comes from the Persian word 'panir'. It is made by adding lemon, vinegar, or yogurt (Dahi) to hot milk, then draining the curds in cloth and soaking them in cold water to create fresh paneer. The texture of paneer is a bit like firm tofu, and it isn't very sour, making it perfect for kids.
Butter chicken (Murgh Butter Chicken) was invented by chance in the 1950s at the Moti Mahal restaurant in Delhi when they put roasted chicken into a buttery tomato curry sauce. It became a classic South Asian dish worldwide after the 1970s. Their butter chicken isn't spicy, so it's an Indian curry that even children can try.
Mint whole-wheat flatbread (Pudina Wholewheat Paratha) is rare in Beijing's South Asian restaurants and is a classic North Indian staple. It is made by folding mint into the layers of whole-wheat dough. It comes out very crispy and is especially fragrant when eaten hot.
Their mint rose syrup is also very tasty. RoohAfza is a classic South Asian Ramadan drink, invented in 1906 by an Indian Muslim from British India named Hakim Hafiz Abdul Majeed, based on traditional Arab-Persian Unani medicine. He selected various herbs and fruit syrups to create a concentrated drink to prevent heatstroke, which is very helpful for relieving dehydration during fasting. After the partition of India and Pakistan in 1947, his descendants opened companies in India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh, making RoohAfza popular all over South Asia.
Suleiman really loves their salty milk shake (xian naixi), he got hooked and could not stop drinking it.
Shihucheng Resort
In the evening, we went to Shihucheng Resort near the Huanghuacheng Lakeside Great Wall in Huairou for dinner. The place is run by Hui Muslims from Changying, and they specialize in rainbow trout, along with various home-style dishes. Rainbow trout needs very high-quality water and can only survive in flowing water, so you rarely find it in city restaurants; you have to go into the mountains of Huairou to eat live fish.
We ordered grilled rainbow trout, braised rainbow trout (kuadun hongtunyu), jasmine buds (moliya), stewed small free-range chicken, green beans with dough rolls (doujiao nianjuanzi), brine-marinated firm tofu (lushui laodoufu), farm-style scrambled eggs, and cornmeal flatbreads (tiebingzi). Since we had a baby with us, we specifically asked the owner for no spice and less salt, and the final result suited our tastes perfectly. The grilled rainbow trout was very fresh, and the braised rainbow trout was very flavorful; both ways of cooking are worth trying. It was my first time eating jasmine buds, and they were very refreshing served as a cold salad. Their menu also lists mixed willow buds, but you can only eat them when they are in season. The other dishes were also delicious, and I liked the green beans with dough rolls the best; the rolls were so fragrant after soaking up the juices from the stewed beans and meat.
However, their hygiene definitely cannot compare to the city, especially the baby chair which was very greasy, and the spoons were not washed well either. Friends who are particular about cleanliness should think carefully before going.
The scenery near Shihucheng Resort is beautiful, the Huaijiu River is very clear, and the air is very fresh. Their accommodation is very cheap, you can walk to the Huanghuacheng Lakeside Great Wall, and they provide halal breakfast; when we went, we saw many older folks staying there.
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Summary: This second Beijing halal restaurant guide covers ten Muslim restaurants worth trying, with practical notes on dishes, locations, and everyday eating. It keeps the original restaurant names, dishes, photographs, and food comments for readers looking for halal meals in Beijing.
10 halal restaurants in Beijing worth visiting, part one: Lahore Courtyard, Maimai Red Beef Sliced Noodles, Hulun Aile, Tribe Garden, Xing Laosi Meatball Spicy Soup, Jinying Meatball Soup, Hotan Canteen Open-Air Night Market, BRBR Blue Harbor Branch, Gulou Noodles, and Xilaishun.
10 new restaurants in Beijing this year: Sultan Turkish Restaurant Beijing Branch, Fang Zhongshan Spicy Soup Hujialou Branch, Zhang Dahui Spicy Soup, Yuwei Xiaoyao Town Spicy Soup, Qinyuanzhai Fresh Braised Duck Shop, Subuha Almond Tofu Jiaodaokou Branch, Shawarma City, Tomato Casual Western Restaurant Super Hopson One Branch, and Yali Jiji Courtyard.
Part two restaurants: Alkhaleej Mandi Kitchen, Xinjiang Mansion Xihan Meatball Soup, Xinjiang Mansion Lobby Altay Afternoon Tea, Muhejia Revolving Hot Pot Mudanyuan Branch, Nazilan at Ritan Street, Baoyuanzhai Heping Guoju Branch, Samosa China-Pakistan Friendship Restaurant Sanlitun Branch, Deshengmenwai Maye Roast Duck, Benjiebi Restaurant, and Shihu Cheng Resort.
Alkhaleej Mandi Kitchen.
The newly opened Alkhaleej Mandi Kitchen in Sanlitun SOHO takes its name from 'Khaleej,' which means the Persian Gulf. They specialize in Arabian Peninsula flavors and serve a variety of Yemeni dishes. After Guangzhou, Yiwu, and Tianjin, Beijing is now the fourth city in China to have Yemeni food.
I ordered the clay pot stew (saltah) with Arabic flatbread (mulawah), which is a classic Yemeni brunch combination. After ordering, they brought out meat broth, cucumber yogurt, lemon, onions, and spicy sauce (sahawiq), which is very authentic. Sahawiq is a signature Yemeni spicy sauce made with fresh chili peppers, olive oil, cilantro, garlic, salt, cumin, and parsley for a unique taste.
Saltah is a classic Yemeni stew that originated from the charity kitchens (imaret) during the Ottoman Empire. Back then, wealthy people or the mosque would stew leftovers in a clay pot, and this meat and vegetable dish became known as saltah. Saltah is popular in northern Yemen, and the main ingredient is meat stew (maraq), which is cooked until very tender, along with potatoes and fenugreek. Fenugreek is what people in Northwest China often call fragrant beans (xiangdouzi) or bitter beans (kudouzi). People in the Northwest dry the leaves and grind them into powder to steam buns, while Yemenis grind the seeds to stew with meat. Fenugreek seeds expand when they meet water and easily foam up when stirred in a bowl.
Their Arabic flatbread is truly large, crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. Arabic flatbread is traditionally baked in an earthen oven (tannur) and is full of wheat aroma. You can tear the bread apart to scoop up the clay pot stew with the spicy sauce, or soak it in the meat broth; both ways are delicious.
In short, their Yemeni food is very authentic. I was very satisfied with the meal. Be careful, as the clay pot stew is very hot. Eat slowly so you don't burn your tongue.
Xinjiang Mansion Xihan Meatball Soup.
After visiting the zoo on Sunday afternoon, we had Xihan meatball soup at Xinjiang Mansion. It only takes about ten minutes to walk from the zoo to Xinjiang Mansion, which is very convenient.
I didn't expect this place to be so popular now. Even arriving between two and three in the afternoon, there were still so many people. It seems everyone is living on Xinjiang time. We ordered meatball soup (wanzi tang), layered steamed buns (youtazi), smoked horse sausage (xun machang), spicy numbing chicken (jiaoma ji), pit-roasted lamb chops (nangkeng yangpai), and rose-flavored flatbread (meigui nang).
First, their spicy numbing chicken is very authentic. The meat is firm because they use layer hens instead of broilers. It is also very numbing. I ate one piece and my whole mouth started tingling. Their pit-roasted lamb chops are also delicious and the meat is very tender. They use a southern Xinjiang method of brushing it with salt water instead of sauce or egg wash. This kind of salt-water roasting really tests the quality of the meat. Their meatball soup is a bit more ordinary by comparison. The broth tastes great, but there are very few meat slices and meatballs. Their layered steamed buns are made with fenugreek powder (xiangdou fen), which is my first time trying.
Altay afternoon tea in the lobby of the Xinjiang Building.
I took my son to the zoo on Sunday and stopped by the Xinjiang Building lobby for some Altay afternoon tea. The set includes salty milk tea, milk skin (naipi), milk strips (naitiao), roasted millet (chaomi), apricot jam, strawberry jam, cream, and fried dough fritters (baorsak). The fried dough fritters are served hot. They taste great when you break them open and add jam. Adding roasted millet and milk skin to the milk tea makes it very rich. Now you can enjoy a Kazakh milk tea house experience without going back to Urumqi, though the milk in Beijing isn't quite as fresh as in Xinjiang.
They also have the popular 'nang cup' (wonangfei) coffee. You can get it with coffee, yogurt, or tea. The sesame flatbread (nang) itself tastes good, and you can buy the cups separately.
Muhejia Rotating Hot Pot Mudanyuan branch.
After the Mudanyuan Muhejia Rotating Hot Pot was demolished, it reopened in the storefronts of the building across the street. The new shop has a better environment, and the dishes remain the same. We ordered mushroom broth, nourishing broth, tomato broth, and pickled cabbage broth, and we had a very comfortable meal.
Nazilan at Ritan Shangjie.
We originally wanted to go to Nazilan at Ritan Shangjie for Xinjiang-style clay pot hot pot (they should be the only place in Beijing that has it), but when we arrived, they said it wasn't available, so we didn't get to eat it. So we ordered spicy chicken (lazi ji), minced meat noodles (suirou banmian), meat dumplings (ququr), grilled meat (kaorou), liver wrapped in fat (youbao gan), minced meat thin pancakes (suirou bing), and yogurt.
The quality was highly praised by our whole family. Everyone thought their spicy chicken was well-made, even better than Yangle Spicy Chicken in Urumqi. The chicken had no gamey smell and was very spicy.
The noodles are made with egg-infused dough and topped with a fried egg. The texture of the hand-pulled noodles is great, and the minced meat is very fragrant. It would be considered very good noodles even in Urumqi.
The meat dumplings were for Suleiman. They were very authentic, with thin skins and plenty of meat. Suleiman ate over a dozen in one go.
Their grilled meat (kaorou) and liver wrapped in fat (youbaogan) are both very tender and seasoned just right.
Their yogurt is likely the best on the entire Ritan Shangjie street. It is rich, creamy, and tangy, far better than the neighboring Xinjiang restaurants, and it pairs perfectly with the spicy chicken (lazi ji). I honestly don't think the Xinjiang-brand yogurts sold in Beijing's supermarkets and dairy shops represent the true quality of real Xinjiang yogurt. If you want to taste the kind of yogurt Xinjiang locals drink every day, this place is a pretty good choice.
Also, when we went around 6 or 7 p.m. on Sunday, the atmosphere was quite nice. Everyone was eating quietly, which made for a very comfortable experience. Some of the other Xinjiang restaurants nearby get very noisy at night with people drinking and talking loudly, which can be a bit overwhelming while you eat.
Baoyuanzhai at Heping Guoju
Baoyuanzhai, a halal pastry shop from Wanziying in Chaoyang District, has opened a branch at Heping Guoju on the second basement floor of the Wangfujing Department Store. The decor is very old-school. They have a variety of traditional and modern pastries, including both sugar-free and regular options. They also have savory and scallion-flavored walnut cookies (taosu). You can buy them individually or in gift boxes, making them perfect for tourists to try.
As the weather gets cooler, there are fewer people in Heping Guoju than before, making it a better time to bring kids. There is a steam locomotive and a 'Night Shanghai' stage, both of which kept my son entertained for a long time.
Samosa China-Pakistan Friendship Restaurant, Sanlitun Branch
At noon, I went to the newly opened Samosa China-Pakistan Friendship Restaurant in Sanlitun, located on Dongzhimen Outer Street, for the buffet. The restaurant is on the first floor of the Atour Hotel. They mainly serve various curries, with biryani fried rice, garlic naan, and butter naan as staples. For dessert, they have halwa (a sweet confection), and their classic drink is a mint cooler.
Their most unique feature is the grilled meat buffet! Once the beef skewers are grilled, they bring them to each table before hanging them up. They also have a secret menu item: extra-large lamb skewers, which are grilled until very tender and delicious.
Since I brought my son, we picked out a few non-spicy options for him. His favorites were the tikka boti (clay oven grilled chicken chunks) and the halwa. Halwa originated in Persia and later spread throughout the Middle East and South Asia. South Asian halwa is made from semolina. It has a smooth, buttery texture and is just the right level of sweet.
Their spinach and paneer (milk curd) is also worth trying. Paneer is a type of South Asian fresh cheese. The name comes from the Persian word 'panir' for cheese. To make it, you add lemon, vinegar, or dahi (yogurt) to hot milk, strain the curds through a cloth, and soak them in cold water to create fresh paneer. Paneer has a texture similar to tofu and isn't very sour, making it great for children.
Maye Roast Duck outside Deshengmen
Traffic outside Deshengmen forced me to turn into a small alley in Dewai Guanxiang, where I unexpectedly found a newly opened roast duck shop right next to Pamir Restaurant (Pamir Shifu). Halal roast duck is definitely rare, so I quickly bought half a duck to try, along with salt and pepper duck frame and salt-water duck liver. They only have a service window, so you have to take the food home to eat.
I tried the roast duck after getting home; it tasted pretty good, was all lean meat, and had a slightly sweet flavor. At noon, I ordered their half-set roast duck again. It was much cheaper with a discount on Meituan, making it a great value and perfect for a work lunch. The only downside is that delivery makes the skin soggy, so it definitely isn't as fragrant as when it's freshly made.
Benjiebi Restaurant
I took Suleiman shopping at the Kids' City in Solana, and afterward, we had lunch at the South Asian restaurant Benjiebi on Lucky Street, right across from Solana. The owner is from Bangladesh, and the food leans toward North Indian style. Compared to the long lines at restaurants inside Solana, the places on Lucky Street are much less crowded.
Benjiebi is a long-standing South Asian spot in Beijing. I used to go there often for their weekday lunch set, which is a great deal. They now offer a Liangma River night cruise package, which we want to try if we get the chance.
They thoughtfully mark all the dishes suitable for children on their menu. We ordered grilled broccoli with cheese (Broccolli phool Malai Paneer), butter chicken (Murgh Butter Chicken), saffron rice, mint whole-wheat flatbread (Pudina Wholewheat Paratha), mint rose syrup (Mint Roohafza), and salty yogurt drink (Lassi Salty).
The paneer in the grilled cheese dish is a South Asian fresh cheese. The name comes from the Persian word 'panir'. It is made by adding lemon, vinegar, or yogurt (Dahi) to hot milk, then draining the curds in cloth and soaking them in cold water to create fresh paneer. The texture of paneer is a bit like firm tofu, and it isn't very sour, making it perfect for kids.
Butter chicken (Murgh Butter Chicken) was invented by chance in the 1950s at the Moti Mahal restaurant in Delhi when they put roasted chicken into a buttery tomato curry sauce. It became a classic South Asian dish worldwide after the 1970s. Their butter chicken isn't spicy, so it's an Indian curry that even children can try.
Mint whole-wheat flatbread (Pudina Wholewheat Paratha) is rare in Beijing's South Asian restaurants and is a classic North Indian staple. It is made by folding mint into the layers of whole-wheat dough. It comes out very crispy and is especially fragrant when eaten hot.
Their mint rose syrup is also very tasty. RoohAfza is a classic South Asian Ramadan drink, invented in 1906 by an Indian Muslim from British India named Hakim Hafiz Abdul Majeed, based on traditional Arab-Persian Unani medicine. He selected various herbs and fruit syrups to create a concentrated drink to prevent heatstroke, which is very helpful for relieving dehydration during fasting. After the partition of India and Pakistan in 1947, his descendants opened companies in India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh, making RoohAfza popular all over South Asia.
Suleiman really loves their salty milk shake (xian naixi), he got hooked and could not stop drinking it.
Shihucheng Resort
In the evening, we went to Shihucheng Resort near the Huanghuacheng Lakeside Great Wall in Huairou for dinner. The place is run by Hui Muslims from Changying, and they specialize in rainbow trout, along with various home-style dishes. Rainbow trout needs very high-quality water and can only survive in flowing water, so you rarely find it in city restaurants; you have to go into the mountains of Huairou to eat live fish.
We ordered grilled rainbow trout, braised rainbow trout (kuadun hongtunyu), jasmine buds (moliya), stewed small free-range chicken, green beans with dough rolls (doujiao nianjuanzi), brine-marinated firm tofu (lushui laodoufu), farm-style scrambled eggs, and cornmeal flatbreads (tiebingzi). Since we had a baby with us, we specifically asked the owner for no spice and less salt, and the final result suited our tastes perfectly. The grilled rainbow trout was very fresh, and the braised rainbow trout was very flavorful; both ways of cooking are worth trying. It was my first time eating jasmine buds, and they were very refreshing served as a cold salad. Their menu also lists mixed willow buds, but you can only eat them when they are in season. The other dishes were also delicious, and I liked the green beans with dough rolls the best; the rolls were so fragrant after soaking up the juices from the stewed beans and meat.
However, their hygiene definitely cannot compare to the city, especially the baby chair which was very greasy, and the spoons were not washed well either. Friends who are particular about cleanliness should think carefully before going.
The scenery near Shihucheng Resort is beautiful, the Huaijiu River is very clear, and the air is very fresh. Their accommodation is very cheap, you can walk to the Huanghuacheng Lakeside Great Wall, and they provide halal breakfast; when we went, we saw many older folks staying there.
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Islamic History Guide: Quanzhou Lingshan Holy Tomb and Muslim Heritage
Reposted from the web
Summary: This article visits the Lingshan Holy Tomb in Quanzhou, one of the city's key Islamic heritage sites linked to early Muslim history on China's coast. It keeps the original tomb details, inscriptions, photographs, names, and historical context for readers studying Quanzhou Muslim heritage.
Lingshan Holy Tomb is in the east of Quanzhou city, also known as the Tomb of the Three and Four Sages. The story of the Three and Four Sages mainly comes from the Min Shu: Fang Yu Zhi written by He Qiaoyuan in 1629 (the second year of the Chongzhen reign of the Ming Dynasty). The Min Shu quotes a legend that four disciples of the Prophet Muhammad came to the Tang Dynasty to spread the faith during the Wude period (618-626). One sage went to Guangzhou, two went to Yangzhou, and the third and fourth went to Quanzhou. After the third and fourth sages passed away, they were buried in Quanzhou, where their graves glowed at night, making them holy sites.
In reality, Lingshan was a burial ground for monks from Chengtian Mosque from the Five Dynasties period to the Southern Song Dynasty. It was only abandoned after Chengtian Mosque failed in its resistance against the Yuan Dynasty at the end of the Southern Song. According to the Record of Burying Foreign Merchants at Dongban in Quanzhou by Lin Zhiqi, a Southern Song official, a merchant from the ancient Iranian port of Siraf followed the suggestion of Pu Xiasin to donate money and buy land to build the first tomb for foreign merchants at Dongban in Quanzhou. The cemetery was started in 1162 (the 32nd year of the Shaoxing reign of the Southern Song) and finished in 1163 (the first year of the Longxing reign).
The holy tomb has a stone tablet from the Yuan Dynasty dated 1322, written in Arabic, which says: These two deceased came to this land during the time of the Faghur. It is said they were men of great virtue, so after death, they moved from the earthly world to the eternal one. According to research by Chen Dasheng in A Preliminary Study of the Date of Lingshan Holy Tomb in Quanzhou, Faghur is an Arabic transliteration of the Persian word Bagh pur, which specifically referred to the Emperor of China in Persian literature from the Five Dynasties to the Song and Yuan periods.
According to the Quanzhou Prefecture Gazetteer, when Zhou Daoguang, the prefect of Quanzhou, visited Lingshan Holy Tomb in 1562 (the 41st year of the Jiajing reign of the Ming Dynasty), he mentioned there were three mounds, which were the holy tombs. The Min Shu Chao, written during the Chongzhen reign, records that the owner of the third tomb was Gao Di Shi Xu Ba Ba. In the 1930s, the wooden frame of the pavilion at Lingshan Holy Tomb had collapsed, leaving only four stone shuttle-shaped pillars. At that time, the three Sumeru-style stone tombs arranged in a triangle were still well-preserved, with stone covers on top.
In 1958, the Quanzhou Cultural Bureau and the municipal committee moved the tombstone of Gao Di Shi Xu Ba Ba to the northern hillside to fit the legend in the Min Shu. At the same time, they moved the tombstone of the imam Ma Ahun Yongchun (Ma Yongchun) from the south of the holy tomb to the northern hillside. In March 1959, a new stone pavilion was built with three levels of terraces and stairs on both sides. All other tombstones in front of the graves were removed to create a lawn, forming the layout seen today.
The holy tomb currently has two granite graves divided into three layers, with lotus petal carvings on the bottom layer. In the past, during Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha, Hui Muslims in Quanzhou would attend prayers at Qingjing Mosque. First, an imam would lead the heads of households to visit the homes of other Hui Muslims near the mosque for a greeting, and then all the Hui Muslims would go together to visit the graves at Lingshan. When visiting the graves, they would first recite the Quran together at the holy tomb before going to their own family graves.
The archway and gate in front of Lingshan Holy Tomb, the banyan trees on Lingshan Avenue, and the national and provincial heritage site markers, introduction boards, and notices at the holy tomb.
The historical stone tablets at Lingshan Holy Tomb.
The Incense Offering Tablet: This records the visit of Zheng He to the graves before his fifth voyage to the Western Oceans in 1417 (the 15th year of the Yongle reign), erected by the commander Pu Heri. The name Hulumesi carved on the tablet refers to the ancient Persian port of Hormuz.
The Chen Yougong Repair Tablet: Erected in 1714 (the 53rd year of the Kangxi reign), it records the repair of Lingshan Holy Tomb by Chen Yougong, a regional commander in Fujian, and Chen Mei, a regional military official. The inscription below lists seven surnames: Chen, Ma, Guo, Huang, Li, Yang, Pu, and Ding.
The Xia Bidi Repair Tablet: Records the repair of the holy tomb by the director Xia Bidi in 1751 (the 16th year of the Qianlong reign).
The Guo Bacui Repair Tablet: Records the repair of the holy tomb by the scholar Guo Bacui in 1783 (the 48th year of the Qianlong reign). Guo Bacui was a Hui Muslim from the Guo family in Baiqi. He passed the military examination in 1779 (the 40th year of the Qianlong reign), was awarded the rank of military officer, and served in the Anping Left Battalion in Taiwan. When he erected the tablet in 1783, he was stationed in Xiamen and ordered to patrol the coastal areas of Taiwan and Penghu. In 1787 (the 52nd year of the Qianlong reign), the Lin Shuangwen uprising in Taiwan besieged Zhuluo County. Guo Bacui was ordered to rush to the rescue and died on the battlefield.
The Ma Jianji renovation stele records that in 1818 (the 23rd year of the Jiaqing reign), Ma Jianji, the acting commander-in-chief of the Fujian provincial land forces and general of Zhangzhou from Western Sichuan, rebuilt the tomb pavilion. The stele calls the Holy Tomb the 'Baba Tomb,' with 'Baba' being the Persian term of respect for an elder. Ma Jianji was from Nanchong, Sichuan. Besides renovating the Lingshan Holy Tomb, he also renovated the Qingjing Mosque in Quanzhou.
The Jiang Changgui renovation stele records that in 1871 (the 10th year of the Tongzhi reign), Fujian commander Jiang Changgui renovated the Holy Tomb. Jiang Changgui was a Hui Muslim from Yanting, Sichuan. His family practiced martial arts for generations. He was brave in battle, led troops against the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom for many years, earned many military merits, and was titled Zhiyong Baturu and General Jianwei. Besides renovating the Lingshan Holy Tomb, he also renovated the Qingjing Mosque and invited the army imam Ma Yongchun to lead religious affairs.
Beside the Holy Tomb is a 'Wind-Moving Stone' (fengdongshi). It features the inscription 'Jade Ball' (biyu qiu) by Quanzhou prefect Zhou Daoguang in 1563 (the 42nd year of the Jiajing reign) and 'Natural Ingenuity' (tianran jimiyao) by Ma Jianji in 1818 (the 23rd year of the Jiaqing reign).
Zhou Daoguang was the first person to record the term 'Lingshan Holy Tomb'. The Quanzhou Prefecture Gazetteer, Mountains and Rivers, Lingshan section records: 'Asking the locals, they say: This is the Lingshan Holy Tomb... Since the religion from foreign lands entered the Middle Kingdom, there have been Hui Muslims.' Its founder's surname and generation are unknown, but he loved this hill and was buried here...' He also described the tomb's layout at the time: 'Entering the gate, the path is very narrow.' Climbing to the hall, the atmosphere feels different. Reaching the top, there are three mounds, which are the Holy Tombs. In front of the tomb, there is a small pavilion on the right for namaz. On the left, there is a shed where one can rest.
In 1958, when the Fuzhou-Xiamen highway outside the East Gate of Quanzhou was widened, several Song and Yuan dynasty Muslim pedestal-style tomb stones by the road were moved next to the Lingshan Holy Tomb. That same year, farmers in Jintoupu village outside Tonghuai Gate in Quanzhou were collecting fertilizer and dredging pond sludge. They unearthed over ten pedestal-style tomb stones, which were temporarily moved to the Qingjing Mosque and later moved to the Lingshan Holy Tomb for preservation. That same year, residents on Tonghuai Street in Quanzhou unearthed three side-by-side pedestal-style tomb stones while building a house, which were also moved to the Lingshan Holy Tomb for preservation.
The image below is likely the tomb stone of Gaodi Shixu Baba, which was originally with the 'Three Sages and Four Sages' tomb stones and moved here during the 1958 renovation.
Details of the Arabic stone carving. The content of the carving is entirely scripture, with no identity information about the tomb owner. According to Quanzhou's Song and Yuan dynasty traditions, the tomb stone recording the owner's identity would have been a separate slab.
Next to the Lingshan Holy Tomb is the cemetery for local Quanzhou Hui Muslims. The Ge, Ma, and Huang families are descendants of the generations of imams from the Qingjing Mosque. They mostly worked in the leather industry in the past and lived inside the Qingjing Mosque until 1983. In the past, Quanzhou Hui Muslims would come here to visit the graves every Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha. When visiting the graves, first light some incense (anxixiang), then trace the carvings on the tombstone with red paint, and finally invite an imam to recite scriptures.
In the tomb complex, you can see the ancestral graves of the Huang family from Jiangxia and the Huang family from Yanshan. The Jiangxia Huang family ancestral grave is inscribed with 'Mosque Huang Residence,' while the Yanshan Huang family grave bears inscriptions like 'First Year of the Xuantong Reign' and 'Imperially Appointed Fifth-Rank Official... Land Route Commander...' which are hard to read completely due to the red paint.
According to their family records, the Guo family of Hui Muslims originally lived in Guo Family Village in Fuyang, Hangzhou, before arriving in Quanzhou during the Yuan Dynasty. During the Hongwu reign of the Ming Dynasty, Guo Zhongyuan moved from Quanzhou to Baiqipu on the opposite side of Houzhu Port, which eventually became the present-day Baiqi Hui Ethnic Township. The Baiqi Guo family left the faith in 1607 (the 35th year of the Wanli reign of the Ming Dynasty). In 1709 (the 48th year of the Kangxi reign), Chen Yougong, a regional commander and left-wing general for the Fujian Ting, Yan, and Shao areas, came to Quanzhou to revive the faith and established scripture hall education at the Qingjing Mosque. At that time, Guo Honglong, a member of the eighth generation of the Guo family's fourth branch, moved from He Cuo in Baiqipu to live at the Qingjing Mosque and returned to the faith, citing the need to strengthen the main family line. After Guo Honglong returned to the faith, his descendants lived at the Qingjing Mosque. His descendant, Guo Shifu, helped renovate the mosque in 1794 (the 59th year of the Qianlong reign) alongside Bai Yunhan, a deputy general of the Zhangzhou Left Battalion.
A large section of the Lingshan Sacred Tomb scenic area is dedicated to the Ding family cemetery from Chendai.
According to family records, the first-generation ancestor of the Chendai Ding family, Ding Jin (1251-1298), was originally from Suzhou and settled in Quanzhou for business. The Chendai Ding family maintained their faith for ten generations, spanning over two hundred years from the 13th to the 16th century. Ding Yanxia, the tenth-generation descendant born around 1517, wrote detailed accounts of the religious customs he experienced as a child in his work, 'On Ancestral Faith' (Zujiao Shuo). However, calculations suggest that by the eighth to ninth generation, the Chendai Ding family no longer prioritized scripture hall education. The remaining relics of the faith belonging to the Chendai Ding family are the several Ming Dynasty tomb stones located within the Lingshan Sacred Tomb.
Before the Ding family established their base in Chendai, the first, second, and third generations were all buried at Lingshan, east of Quanzhou city. After the fourth-generation ancestor, Ding Shan, established the family base in Chendai, he entrusted the management of the ancestral graves to others. Later, Xu Fu, the son of the second manager Xu Fen, repeatedly encroached on the ancestral graveyard, and the Ding family endured this in silence. Eighteen years later, in 1505, the eighth-generation descendant Ding Yi passed the imperial examinations to become a jinshi. Upon returning home, he filed a lawsuit and finally reclaimed the ancestral tomb land.
During the Chongzhen reign of the Ming Dynasty, the descendants of the Ding family combined the graves of the first, second, and third generations. In 1993, due to road construction, many of the Chendai Ding family's tomb stones were moved from outside the East Gate of Quanzhou and Luyuan to the Lingshan Sacred Tomb. The current combined tomb of the first, second, and third generations was also renovated during this period. The tomb stones and tombstones seen today are not the original ones.
After the Ming Dynasty, the Chendai Ding family claimed their ancestor was the Yuan Dynasty politician Sayyid Ajjal Shams al-Din, so the cemetery features inscriptions identifying them as descendants of a saint.
In the cemetery, you can also see the Basmala (tasimi) auspicious bird of the Chendai Ding family.
The tomb of the fourth-generation Chendai Ding family ancestor, Ding Shan, and his wife, Zhuang Xiniang.
Ding Shan (1343-1420), also known as Yanren and Ren'an, moved from Quanzhou to Chendai with his father at the end of the Yuan Dynasty. In the early Ming Dynasty, he settled in Chendai and established the Ding family clan. His wife, Zhuang Xiniang, also known as Runxiu, was the sixth-generation granddaughter of Zhuang Xia, who was named a founding baron and junior preceptor during the Southern Song Dynasty. The Zhuang family was very powerful at the end of the Southern Song Dynasty, but they gradually declined after the Yuan Dynasty. Many relatives left Quanzhou, and only Zhuang Xiniang's father remained in the Zhuang family mansion in the south of the city. The Ding and Zhuang families were neighbors at the time, so they married. Shortly after the wedding, Ding Shan and his father moved to Chendai. The Ding family's move to Chendai was likely related to Zhuang Xiniang, because the Zhuang clan lived nearby in Qingyang, a powerful group known as the Qingyang Zhuang family.
Ding Shan and his wife Zhuang Xiniang were originally buried in Luyuan, east of Quanzhou city. Luyuan means 'Paradise,' which is what the Quran refers to as the 'Garden of Heaven'. The tombstone is a traditional Islamic greenstone (huilvyan) tomb. Two five-story, pedestal-style tombstones sit on a Sumeru-style altar platform. The fourth layer of the tombstone is carved with scripture (2:255).
Tombs of the fifth-generation Ding Guanbao, sixth-generation Ding Kuan, and sixth-generation Ding Min.
Ding Guanbao (1369-1436), also known as Shifu and Chengzhai, was Ding Shan's second son and the founder of the second branch of the Chendai Ding family. He was originally buried at the foot of Shuiniulin, east of Quanzhou city.
Ding Kuan (1395-1446), also known as Tingyu and Longyin, was Ding Guanbao's second son. He was originally buried to the left of Ding Shan's tomb in Luyuan Mountain.
Ding Min (1407-1456), also known as Tingxue and Yizhai, was Ding Guanbao's fourth son. He was originally buried at the foot of Shuiniulin, east of Quanzhou city. Ding Min was the first local scholar among the Chendai Ding family to promote literary education.
Tomb of the fifth-generation Ding Mabao of the Chendai Ding family, with his wife Pu and his successor wife Wang.
Ding Mabao (1366-1431), also known as Shilong and Yi'an, was the eldest son of the fourth-generation founder Ding Shan. He was the founder of the first branch of the Chendai Ding family and was originally buried with his two wives at the Chenggui Baoxue site on Daping Mountain, east of Quanzhou city.
Tomb of the fifth-generation Ding Fubao and his wife Shi Dingniang.
Ding Fubao (1375-1432), also known as Shizhang and Yingjie, was Ding Shan's third son and the founder of the third branch of the Chendai Ding family. He is buried at Lingshan, east of Quanzhou city. The tomb features two pedestal-style stone graves on a traditional Islamic Sumeru-style altar platform, with swastikas and two lions playing with a ball carved into the waist of the platform.
Tombs of the sixth-generation Ding Xin and his wife Cai, and the seventh-generation Ding Lun and his wife Zhuang.
Tomb of the twenty-second generation Ding Jinke.
Ding Jinke (1923-1997), whose Islamic name was Yunus, studied at the Guangxi Chengda Normal School and the Hong Kong Dade College. In the early 1920s, the famous Hui Muslim Tang Kesan served as the director of the Xiamen Customs. He recommended his fellow townsman Zhang Guangyu to lead Islamic affairs in the Quanzhou area. After Imam Zhang Guangyu arrived in Quanzhou, he worked diligently on religious affairs, and the Islamic faith began to revive in Chendai. In 1939, the Chenjiang Branch of the China Islamic National Salvation Association was established in Chendai. Some members of the Ding family in Chendai went to the Qingjing Mosque in Quanzhou for their weekly Friday prayer (jumu'ah). Later, they converted the Wenchang Shrine in Sijing Village into a mosque and invited Imam Tie from Quanzhou to lead the religious affairs. Between 1937 and 1944, the Chengda Normal School moved south to Guilin. Its founders, Tang Kesan and Imam Ma Songting, accepted 17 young men from the Ding family in Chendai to study there, including Ding Jinke.
Ding Jinke joined the revolution during the War of Liberation. Later, he worked for the Financial and Economic Committee of the State Council and at various colleges and universities in Beijing and Xinjiang. He retired and returned to his hometown in 1983. In 1983, when the Fujian Islamic Association was founded, Ding Jinke, along with fellow Chengda Normal School graduates Ding Jinshun, Ding Jinhe, Ding Jinhong, and over twenty other dedicated community members, formed the Chendai Islamic Association Group to begin reviving religious activities. They borrowed the second-floor meeting room of the Chendai Hui Ethnic Affairs Committee and the back hall of the Ding Family Ancestral Hall to hold their Friday prayer (jumu'ah).
After years of hard work, Ding Jinke and other friends (dosti) raised funds to build the Chendai Mosque. The mosque was completed in 1991 and officially opened in 1993, with Ding Jinke serving as the first director of the mosque management committee. Soon after, the Jinjiang Islamic Association was established, and Ding Jinke served as its executive deputy director. After the 1990s, Ding Jinke helped dozens of young people from the Ding family in Chendai go to study religious knowledge both at home and abroad, with some attending Arabic language schools in Inner Mongolia.
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Summary: This article visits the Lingshan Holy Tomb in Quanzhou, one of the city's key Islamic heritage sites linked to early Muslim history on China's coast. It keeps the original tomb details, inscriptions, photographs, names, and historical context for readers studying Quanzhou Muslim heritage.
Lingshan Holy Tomb is in the east of Quanzhou city, also known as the Tomb of the Three and Four Sages. The story of the Three and Four Sages mainly comes from the Min Shu: Fang Yu Zhi written by He Qiaoyuan in 1629 (the second year of the Chongzhen reign of the Ming Dynasty). The Min Shu quotes a legend that four disciples of the Prophet Muhammad came to the Tang Dynasty to spread the faith during the Wude period (618-626). One sage went to Guangzhou, two went to Yangzhou, and the third and fourth went to Quanzhou. After the third and fourth sages passed away, they were buried in Quanzhou, where their graves glowed at night, making them holy sites.
In reality, Lingshan was a burial ground for monks from Chengtian Mosque from the Five Dynasties period to the Southern Song Dynasty. It was only abandoned after Chengtian Mosque failed in its resistance against the Yuan Dynasty at the end of the Southern Song. According to the Record of Burying Foreign Merchants at Dongban in Quanzhou by Lin Zhiqi, a Southern Song official, a merchant from the ancient Iranian port of Siraf followed the suggestion of Pu Xiasin to donate money and buy land to build the first tomb for foreign merchants at Dongban in Quanzhou. The cemetery was started in 1162 (the 32nd year of the Shaoxing reign of the Southern Song) and finished in 1163 (the first year of the Longxing reign).
The holy tomb has a stone tablet from the Yuan Dynasty dated 1322, written in Arabic, which says: These two deceased came to this land during the time of the Faghur. It is said they were men of great virtue, so after death, they moved from the earthly world to the eternal one. According to research by Chen Dasheng in A Preliminary Study of the Date of Lingshan Holy Tomb in Quanzhou, Faghur is an Arabic transliteration of the Persian word Bagh pur, which specifically referred to the Emperor of China in Persian literature from the Five Dynasties to the Song and Yuan periods.
According to the Quanzhou Prefecture Gazetteer, when Zhou Daoguang, the prefect of Quanzhou, visited Lingshan Holy Tomb in 1562 (the 41st year of the Jiajing reign of the Ming Dynasty), he mentioned there were three mounds, which were the holy tombs. The Min Shu Chao, written during the Chongzhen reign, records that the owner of the third tomb was Gao Di Shi Xu Ba Ba. In the 1930s, the wooden frame of the pavilion at Lingshan Holy Tomb had collapsed, leaving only four stone shuttle-shaped pillars. At that time, the three Sumeru-style stone tombs arranged in a triangle were still well-preserved, with stone covers on top.
In 1958, the Quanzhou Cultural Bureau and the municipal committee moved the tombstone of Gao Di Shi Xu Ba Ba to the northern hillside to fit the legend in the Min Shu. At the same time, they moved the tombstone of the imam Ma Ahun Yongchun (Ma Yongchun) from the south of the holy tomb to the northern hillside. In March 1959, a new stone pavilion was built with three levels of terraces and stairs on both sides. All other tombstones in front of the graves were removed to create a lawn, forming the layout seen today.
The holy tomb currently has two granite graves divided into three layers, with lotus petal carvings on the bottom layer. In the past, during Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha, Hui Muslims in Quanzhou would attend prayers at Qingjing Mosque. First, an imam would lead the heads of households to visit the homes of other Hui Muslims near the mosque for a greeting, and then all the Hui Muslims would go together to visit the graves at Lingshan. When visiting the graves, they would first recite the Quran together at the holy tomb before going to their own family graves.
The archway and gate in front of Lingshan Holy Tomb, the banyan trees on Lingshan Avenue, and the national and provincial heritage site markers, introduction boards, and notices at the holy tomb.
The historical stone tablets at Lingshan Holy Tomb.
The Incense Offering Tablet: This records the visit of Zheng He to the graves before his fifth voyage to the Western Oceans in 1417 (the 15th year of the Yongle reign), erected by the commander Pu Heri. The name Hulumesi carved on the tablet refers to the ancient Persian port of Hormuz.
The Chen Yougong Repair Tablet: Erected in 1714 (the 53rd year of the Kangxi reign), it records the repair of Lingshan Holy Tomb by Chen Yougong, a regional commander in Fujian, and Chen Mei, a regional military official. The inscription below lists seven surnames: Chen, Ma, Guo, Huang, Li, Yang, Pu, and Ding.
The Xia Bidi Repair Tablet: Records the repair of the holy tomb by the director Xia Bidi in 1751 (the 16th year of the Qianlong reign).
The Guo Bacui Repair Tablet: Records the repair of the holy tomb by the scholar Guo Bacui in 1783 (the 48th year of the Qianlong reign). Guo Bacui was a Hui Muslim from the Guo family in Baiqi. He passed the military examination in 1779 (the 40th year of the Qianlong reign), was awarded the rank of military officer, and served in the Anping Left Battalion in Taiwan. When he erected the tablet in 1783, he was stationed in Xiamen and ordered to patrol the coastal areas of Taiwan and Penghu. In 1787 (the 52nd year of the Qianlong reign), the Lin Shuangwen uprising in Taiwan besieged Zhuluo County. Guo Bacui was ordered to rush to the rescue and died on the battlefield.
The Ma Jianji renovation stele records that in 1818 (the 23rd year of the Jiaqing reign), Ma Jianji, the acting commander-in-chief of the Fujian provincial land forces and general of Zhangzhou from Western Sichuan, rebuilt the tomb pavilion. The stele calls the Holy Tomb the 'Baba Tomb,' with 'Baba' being the Persian term of respect for an elder. Ma Jianji was from Nanchong, Sichuan. Besides renovating the Lingshan Holy Tomb, he also renovated the Qingjing Mosque in Quanzhou.
The Jiang Changgui renovation stele records that in 1871 (the 10th year of the Tongzhi reign), Fujian commander Jiang Changgui renovated the Holy Tomb. Jiang Changgui was a Hui Muslim from Yanting, Sichuan. His family practiced martial arts for generations. He was brave in battle, led troops against the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom for many years, earned many military merits, and was titled Zhiyong Baturu and General Jianwei. Besides renovating the Lingshan Holy Tomb, he also renovated the Qingjing Mosque and invited the army imam Ma Yongchun to lead religious affairs.
Beside the Holy Tomb is a 'Wind-Moving Stone' (fengdongshi). It features the inscription 'Jade Ball' (biyu qiu) by Quanzhou prefect Zhou Daoguang in 1563 (the 42nd year of the Jiajing reign) and 'Natural Ingenuity' (tianran jimiyao) by Ma Jianji in 1818 (the 23rd year of the Jiaqing reign).
Zhou Daoguang was the first person to record the term 'Lingshan Holy Tomb'. The Quanzhou Prefecture Gazetteer, Mountains and Rivers, Lingshan section records: 'Asking the locals, they say: This is the Lingshan Holy Tomb... Since the religion from foreign lands entered the Middle Kingdom, there have been Hui Muslims.' Its founder's surname and generation are unknown, but he loved this hill and was buried here...' He also described the tomb's layout at the time: 'Entering the gate, the path is very narrow.' Climbing to the hall, the atmosphere feels different. Reaching the top, there are three mounds, which are the Holy Tombs. In front of the tomb, there is a small pavilion on the right for namaz. On the left, there is a shed where one can rest.
In 1958, when the Fuzhou-Xiamen highway outside the East Gate of Quanzhou was widened, several Song and Yuan dynasty Muslim pedestal-style tomb stones by the road were moved next to the Lingshan Holy Tomb. That same year, farmers in Jintoupu village outside Tonghuai Gate in Quanzhou were collecting fertilizer and dredging pond sludge. They unearthed over ten pedestal-style tomb stones, which were temporarily moved to the Qingjing Mosque and later moved to the Lingshan Holy Tomb for preservation. That same year, residents on Tonghuai Street in Quanzhou unearthed three side-by-side pedestal-style tomb stones while building a house, which were also moved to the Lingshan Holy Tomb for preservation.
The image below is likely the tomb stone of Gaodi Shixu Baba, which was originally with the 'Three Sages and Four Sages' tomb stones and moved here during the 1958 renovation.
Details of the Arabic stone carving. The content of the carving is entirely scripture, with no identity information about the tomb owner. According to Quanzhou's Song and Yuan dynasty traditions, the tomb stone recording the owner's identity would have been a separate slab.
Next to the Lingshan Holy Tomb is the cemetery for local Quanzhou Hui Muslims. The Ge, Ma, and Huang families are descendants of the generations of imams from the Qingjing Mosque. They mostly worked in the leather industry in the past and lived inside the Qingjing Mosque until 1983. In the past, Quanzhou Hui Muslims would come here to visit the graves every Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha. When visiting the graves, first light some incense (anxixiang), then trace the carvings on the tombstone with red paint, and finally invite an imam to recite scriptures.
In the tomb complex, you can see the ancestral graves of the Huang family from Jiangxia and the Huang family from Yanshan. The Jiangxia Huang family ancestral grave is inscribed with 'Mosque Huang Residence,' while the Yanshan Huang family grave bears inscriptions like 'First Year of the Xuantong Reign' and 'Imperially Appointed Fifth-Rank Official... Land Route Commander...' which are hard to read completely due to the red paint.
According to their family records, the Guo family of Hui Muslims originally lived in Guo Family Village in Fuyang, Hangzhou, before arriving in Quanzhou during the Yuan Dynasty. During the Hongwu reign of the Ming Dynasty, Guo Zhongyuan moved from Quanzhou to Baiqipu on the opposite side of Houzhu Port, which eventually became the present-day Baiqi Hui Ethnic Township. The Baiqi Guo family left the faith in 1607 (the 35th year of the Wanli reign of the Ming Dynasty). In 1709 (the 48th year of the Kangxi reign), Chen Yougong, a regional commander and left-wing general for the Fujian Ting, Yan, and Shao areas, came to Quanzhou to revive the faith and established scripture hall education at the Qingjing Mosque. At that time, Guo Honglong, a member of the eighth generation of the Guo family's fourth branch, moved from He Cuo in Baiqipu to live at the Qingjing Mosque and returned to the faith, citing the need to strengthen the main family line. After Guo Honglong returned to the faith, his descendants lived at the Qingjing Mosque. His descendant, Guo Shifu, helped renovate the mosque in 1794 (the 59th year of the Qianlong reign) alongside Bai Yunhan, a deputy general of the Zhangzhou Left Battalion.
A large section of the Lingshan Sacred Tomb scenic area is dedicated to the Ding family cemetery from Chendai.
According to family records, the first-generation ancestor of the Chendai Ding family, Ding Jin (1251-1298), was originally from Suzhou and settled in Quanzhou for business. The Chendai Ding family maintained their faith for ten generations, spanning over two hundred years from the 13th to the 16th century. Ding Yanxia, the tenth-generation descendant born around 1517, wrote detailed accounts of the religious customs he experienced as a child in his work, 'On Ancestral Faith' (Zujiao Shuo). However, calculations suggest that by the eighth to ninth generation, the Chendai Ding family no longer prioritized scripture hall education. The remaining relics of the faith belonging to the Chendai Ding family are the several Ming Dynasty tomb stones located within the Lingshan Sacred Tomb.
Before the Ding family established their base in Chendai, the first, second, and third generations were all buried at Lingshan, east of Quanzhou city. After the fourth-generation ancestor, Ding Shan, established the family base in Chendai, he entrusted the management of the ancestral graves to others. Later, Xu Fu, the son of the second manager Xu Fen, repeatedly encroached on the ancestral graveyard, and the Ding family endured this in silence. Eighteen years later, in 1505, the eighth-generation descendant Ding Yi passed the imperial examinations to become a jinshi. Upon returning home, he filed a lawsuit and finally reclaimed the ancestral tomb land.
During the Chongzhen reign of the Ming Dynasty, the descendants of the Ding family combined the graves of the first, second, and third generations. In 1993, due to road construction, many of the Chendai Ding family's tomb stones were moved from outside the East Gate of Quanzhou and Luyuan to the Lingshan Sacred Tomb. The current combined tomb of the first, second, and third generations was also renovated during this period. The tomb stones and tombstones seen today are not the original ones.
After the Ming Dynasty, the Chendai Ding family claimed their ancestor was the Yuan Dynasty politician Sayyid Ajjal Shams al-Din, so the cemetery features inscriptions identifying them as descendants of a saint.
In the cemetery, you can also see the Basmala (tasimi) auspicious bird of the Chendai Ding family.
The tomb of the fourth-generation Chendai Ding family ancestor, Ding Shan, and his wife, Zhuang Xiniang.
Ding Shan (1343-1420), also known as Yanren and Ren'an, moved from Quanzhou to Chendai with his father at the end of the Yuan Dynasty. In the early Ming Dynasty, he settled in Chendai and established the Ding family clan. His wife, Zhuang Xiniang, also known as Runxiu, was the sixth-generation granddaughter of Zhuang Xia, who was named a founding baron and junior preceptor during the Southern Song Dynasty. The Zhuang family was very powerful at the end of the Southern Song Dynasty, but they gradually declined after the Yuan Dynasty. Many relatives left Quanzhou, and only Zhuang Xiniang's father remained in the Zhuang family mansion in the south of the city. The Ding and Zhuang families were neighbors at the time, so they married. Shortly after the wedding, Ding Shan and his father moved to Chendai. The Ding family's move to Chendai was likely related to Zhuang Xiniang, because the Zhuang clan lived nearby in Qingyang, a powerful group known as the Qingyang Zhuang family.
Ding Shan and his wife Zhuang Xiniang were originally buried in Luyuan, east of Quanzhou city. Luyuan means 'Paradise,' which is what the Quran refers to as the 'Garden of Heaven'. The tombstone is a traditional Islamic greenstone (huilvyan) tomb. Two five-story, pedestal-style tombstones sit on a Sumeru-style altar platform. The fourth layer of the tombstone is carved with scripture (2:255).
Tombs of the fifth-generation Ding Guanbao, sixth-generation Ding Kuan, and sixth-generation Ding Min.
Ding Guanbao (1369-1436), also known as Shifu and Chengzhai, was Ding Shan's second son and the founder of the second branch of the Chendai Ding family. He was originally buried at the foot of Shuiniulin, east of Quanzhou city.
Ding Kuan (1395-1446), also known as Tingyu and Longyin, was Ding Guanbao's second son. He was originally buried to the left of Ding Shan's tomb in Luyuan Mountain.
Ding Min (1407-1456), also known as Tingxue and Yizhai, was Ding Guanbao's fourth son. He was originally buried at the foot of Shuiniulin, east of Quanzhou city. Ding Min was the first local scholar among the Chendai Ding family to promote literary education.
Tomb of the fifth-generation Ding Mabao of the Chendai Ding family, with his wife Pu and his successor wife Wang.
Ding Mabao (1366-1431), also known as Shilong and Yi'an, was the eldest son of the fourth-generation founder Ding Shan. He was the founder of the first branch of the Chendai Ding family and was originally buried with his two wives at the Chenggui Baoxue site on Daping Mountain, east of Quanzhou city.
Tomb of the fifth-generation Ding Fubao and his wife Shi Dingniang.
Ding Fubao (1375-1432), also known as Shizhang and Yingjie, was Ding Shan's third son and the founder of the third branch of the Chendai Ding family. He is buried at Lingshan, east of Quanzhou city. The tomb features two pedestal-style stone graves on a traditional Islamic Sumeru-style altar platform, with swastikas and two lions playing with a ball carved into the waist of the platform.
Tombs of the sixth-generation Ding Xin and his wife Cai, and the seventh-generation Ding Lun and his wife Zhuang.
Tomb of the twenty-second generation Ding Jinke.
Ding Jinke (1923-1997), whose Islamic name was Yunus, studied at the Guangxi Chengda Normal School and the Hong Kong Dade College. In the early 1920s, the famous Hui Muslim Tang Kesan served as the director of the Xiamen Customs. He recommended his fellow townsman Zhang Guangyu to lead Islamic affairs in the Quanzhou area. After Imam Zhang Guangyu arrived in Quanzhou, he worked diligently on religious affairs, and the Islamic faith began to revive in Chendai. In 1939, the Chenjiang Branch of the China Islamic National Salvation Association was established in Chendai. Some members of the Ding family in Chendai went to the Qingjing Mosque in Quanzhou for their weekly Friday prayer (jumu'ah). Later, they converted the Wenchang Shrine in Sijing Village into a mosque and invited Imam Tie from Quanzhou to lead the religious affairs. Between 1937 and 1944, the Chengda Normal School moved south to Guilin. Its founders, Tang Kesan and Imam Ma Songting, accepted 17 young men from the Ding family in Chendai to study there, including Ding Jinke.
Ding Jinke joined the revolution during the War of Liberation. Later, he worked for the Financial and Economic Committee of the State Council and at various colleges and universities in Beijing and Xinjiang. He retired and returned to his hometown in 1983. In 1983, when the Fujian Islamic Association was founded, Ding Jinke, along with fellow Chengda Normal School graduates Ding Jinshun, Ding Jinhe, Ding Jinhong, and over twenty other dedicated community members, formed the Chendai Islamic Association Group to begin reviving religious activities. They borrowed the second-floor meeting room of the Chendai Hui Ethnic Affairs Committee and the back hall of the Ding Family Ancestral Hall to hold their Friday prayer (jumu'ah).
After years of hard work, Ding Jinke and other friends (dosti) raised funds to build the Chendai Mosque. The mosque was completed in 1991 and officially opened in 1993, with Ding Jinke serving as the first director of the mosque management committee. Soon after, the Jinjiang Islamic Association was established, and Ding Jinke served as its executive deputy director. After the 1990s, Ding Jinke helped dozens of young people from the Ding family in Chendai go to study religious knowledge both at home and abroad, with some attending Arabic language schools in Inner Mongolia.
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Halal Food Guide: Shaomai - Lamb, Sticky Rice and Cantonese Styles
Reposted from the web
Summary: This food note compares lamb steamed dumplings, sticky rice steamed dumplings, and Cantonese-style shaomai through taste, texture, and regional food habits. It keeps the original dish names, photos, restaurant details, and eating notes for readers interested in halal Chinese food.
Historical records show that people in Beijing were eating minced meat steamed dumplings (shaomai) as early as the Yuan Dynasty. In the late Yuan and early Ming dynasties, a textbook for Koreans learning Chinese called 'Pak Tongsa Eonhae' described the customs of the Yuan capital, Dadu, and included several notes on shaomai: 'Made from wheat flour dough rolled into thin sheets, filled with meat, and steamed, then eaten with soup. The local dialect calls them shaomai, with the character mai sometimes written as the character for sell... The skin is thin, filled with chopped meat, and the top is gathered tightly like a tied thread, hence the name shaomai... Made with a flour skin and meat filling, the top is shaped like a flower bud, which the local dialect calls shaomai'.
Currently, shaomai can be divided into three main categories: northern meat-filled shaomai, southern sticky rice shaomai, and Cantonese-style siu mai. Northern shaomai are common in Inner Mongolia, Shanxi, North China, and the Northeast. Southern shaomai are found in the Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Hubei regions, while Cantonese-style siu mai are widely distributed across Southeast Asia due to migration.
I will share some of the shaomai I have eaten, including lamb, sticky rice, and Cantonese styles.
Lamb shaomai at Balizhuang Mosque in Beijing.
On the eleventh day of Ramadan in 2024, the elders at Balizhuang Mosque outside Chaoyangmen made shaomai together in the afternoon. The skins were thin, the meat filling was generous and fragrant, and dipping them in Laba vinegar really brought out the flavor. They also fried chicken strips and cooked rice porridge. I met three sisters from Yunnan who came specifically for this, and I felt very grateful to Allah.
Lianying Inner Mongolia Shaomai in Beijing.
There is a branch of the old Jining, Inner Mongolia brand Lianying Shaomai near Huguosi in Beijing. I ate their wild onion (shacong) and lamb, lamb leg, and vegetarian three-delicacy shaomai. The wild onion has a strong flavor, somewhere between green onion and chives. The lamb leg version uses large green onions, which suits most people's tastes, and the small chunks of lamb have a nice chew. The vegetarian three-delicacy filling is made of chives, eggs, shiitake mushrooms, wood ear mushrooms, and shrimp, giving it a rich texture.
Annei Laoma Inner Mongolia Shaomai in Beijing.
Inside Andingmen in Beijing, there is a shop called Annei Laoma Shaomai run by Hui Muslims from Hohhot. I had their beef and fennel shaomai and lamb offal soup. They serve authentic Hohhot-style food. The shaomai tasted fine, but they were very oily, leaving a greasy feeling in my mouth afterward. The lamb offal soup also tasted fine, but it was not made to order, and the texture suffered after sitting for a while.
Indonesian Siomay at the Beijing Indonesian Cultural Festival.
I attended the annual Indonesian Cultural Festival at the Indonesian Embassy. We started by eating Indonesian siomay. Indonesian siomay originated from Cantonese siu mai. It was first adapted by the Sundanese people of West Java, who replaced the pork filling with fish and added side dishes like cabbage, tofu, potatoes, boiled eggs, and stuffed bitter melon. It is served with peanut sauce and sweet soy sauce and is now a classic street snack across Indonesia.
Lamb shaomai in Shanhaiguan, Hebei.
Yingxinyuan Restaurant is located not far south of the mosque on Guancheng West Road. The elders at the mosque recommended it to me, saying they host guests from the mosque there. I arrived after 3:00 PM. The cook finished my meal and then took a break, as the afternoon shift didn't start until 4:30 PM. The owner said they usually don't have many customers after 2:00 PM, so I was quite lucky. Knowing that portions get bigger the further northeast you go, I ordered a steamer of beef and cabbage steamed dumplings (shaomai) and a plate of sweet and sour pork tenderloin (tangcu liji), but I still couldn't finish it all. The taste was excellent, though! The even larger Qinhuangdao mixed hot pot (hunguo) will have to wait until I can come back with a group of people.
Lamb steamed dumplings (shaomai) in Chengde, Hebei.
In the morning, I had almond tea (xingren cha), meatball soup (wanzi tang), steamed dumplings (shaomai), and steamed dumplings (zhengjiao) at the famous Tuojie Snacks in Chengde. There are many halal snacks in the Shaanxiying area of Chengde, including lamb soup (yangtang), buckwheat noodles (heluo mian), door-nail meat pies (mending roubing), steamed dumplings (shaomai), almond tea (xingren cha), stomach-wrapped meat (dubaorou), stomach-wrapped brains (dubaonao), lamb neck skewers (yangbo chuan), fermented bean drink (douzhi), and bowl jelly (wantuo).
Since the Qing Dynasty built the Mountain Resort in 1703, Hui Muslims have gradually settled in Chengde. Whenever Emperor Kangxi held the Mulan autumn hunt or came to the resort to escape the summer heat, Hui Muslim officers, soldiers, and merchants would follow him. In the early years of Emperor Yongzheng's reign, the Qing government stationed Green Standard Army troops in Chengde. Because most of the officers and soldiers came from Shaanxi, it was called Shaanxiying, and the 'Left Battalion' among them was mostly made up of Hui Muslims. From then on, Shaanxiying became a residential area for Hui Muslims in Chengde.
By the time of Emperor Qianlong, Chengde had become a major metropolis north of the Great Wall. Hui Muslims from Shandong and Hebei flocked there to do business, working in the food industry and cattle and sheep slaughtering, which was known as 'chasing the imperial camp' (gan huangying). Today, the ten major surnames of Chengde's Hui Muslims, such as Wang, Ma, Shi, and Chen, all moved from Shandong, while the Wu surname moved from Cangzhou, Hebei, and the Kong surname moved from Beijing.
Lamb steamed dumplings (shaomai) in Datong, Shanxi.
I took the high-speed train from Beijing to Datong in the morning. After getting off, I headed straight to the famous Fuxingzhai Shaomai on Jiaochang Street for lunch, where I ordered steamed dumplings (shaomai), Mongolian salty milk tea (menggu xian naicha), a basin of egg soup (penpen jidan tang), and oil-seared meat (guoyou rou). Their steamed dumplings (shaomai) were truly delicious and went great with the milk tea.
Lamb steamed dumplings (shaomei) in Taiyuan, Shanxi.
The street-front shops outside the old mosque in Taiyuan were built when Dananmen Street was widened. On both sides of the main gate are beef and mutton shops, and there is one on the south side that always has a long line. A little further south is the Huifengyuan restaurant, which sells steamed dumplings (shaomei), lamb soup (yangtang), meatball soup (wanzi tang), and various other snacks. I had lamb soup (yangrou tang) and steamed dumplings (shaomei) here, and both were exceptionally good.
Since the Ming and Qing dynasties, Hui Muslims in Taiyuan have lived in the area around the South Gate of the old city. During the Qing Dynasty, Taiyuan had over a hundred local Hui Muslim households, plus a dozen or so Hui Muslim households who came from Suiyuan to do business, totaling five or six hundred people. After the Zhengtai Railway opened in 1907, the number of Hui Muslims coming to Taiyuan from Hebei increased significantly, reaching over 1,000 in the 1930s and over 5,100 in the early days of the People's Republic of China.
Lamb steamed dumplings (shaomai) in Hohhot, Inner Mongolia.
I ate steamed dumplings (shaomai) and drank brick tea at Qingyuanchun on Nanshuncheng Street. I personally like this place; I ate here during my previous visit to Hohhot as well.
Qingyuanchun is a long-standing shaomai shop. In 1796 (the first year of the Jiaqing reign), Li Chun started selling shaomai from a wheelbarrow in Guihua City. He made them on the spot, and they were very popular. In 1828 (the eighth year of the Daoguang reign), Li Chun's son, Li Guangyuan, rented two wooden rooms outside the Lanma Wall in Guihua City and officially opened the Qingyuanchun shaomai shop. In 1956, brothers Li Hongtu and Li Mingqing renovated the thirty-square-meter shop and reopened it. The fifth generation, Li Jiting, took over in 1963, and the sixth generation, Li Yongqing, took over in 2009. It is a famous halal shaomai shop in Hohhot.
Lamb shaomai in Shenyang, Liaoning.
I took a high-speed train from Beijing Chaoyang Station to Shenyang in the evening. The next morning, I went to the Lijiang Morning Market in Shenyang and had lamb soup, shaomai, and pan-fried meat pies (huitou) at Heige Lamb Soup. The breakfast stalls at the morning market are all about being affordable! Shaomai cost 7 yuan per steamer, and meat pies cost 2 yuan each. It is hard to find prices like this in a restaurant. They make everything fresh to order. The lamb in the soup is fresh meat the owner cuts at home. He slices it thin, and it cooks quickly when swished in the hot soup, keeping it very tender.
Lamb shaomai in Jinzhou, Liaoning.
I took a train from Beijing Chaoyang Station to Jinzhou North Station in the morning, then had a steamer of shaomai and a bowl of lamb soup in Jinzhou. The price was very affordable.
Lamb shaomai in Luyang, Liaoning.
After getting off at Goubangzi Railway Station, I took a 10-minute taxi ride to Luyang Town in the west. Luyang Mosque is not far from the Luyang Bridge. We were warmly welcomed at Luyang Mosque. Director Jin of the mosque management committee treated us to a hearty meal at his restaurant, Donglaishun. Director Jin's ancestral home was Xiaoxinzhuang in Jinan, Shandong. His ancestors moved to Guozhiwa in Hejian, Hebei, and then to Yingkou, Liaoning, before finally settling in Luyang Town during the Republic of China era. Director Jin has been the director of Luyang Mosque for over a decade. He knows the local history and folklore of Luyang very well and told us several very interesting local legends.
Besides the large portions, the food was super delicious. The most notable dish was the shaomai; I can even say it was the best I have ever had! Their shaomai are a bit like the thin-skinned buns (baozi) from Xinjiang. The skin is so thin you can see the filling inside. The onion flavor stands out, the saltiness is just right, and they are not greasy but very fragrant.
Lamb shaomai in Harbin, Heilongjiang.
I ate shaomai at Lao Guo Jia Guan, a century-old halal shop on Desheng Street in the Daowai District of Harbin. We actually discovered this place by accident while passing by in a taxi the night before. As a son-in-law of the Guo family, I happened to be talking to my wife about how rarely we see halal restaurants opened by the Guo family, and then I turned my head and saw this place! I quickly noted it down on my phone and went to eat there the next day.
Guo Jia Guan was founded by Guo Shaoxian in 1927 on Zhengyang 11th Street in Daowai. The 1933 'Guide to Greater Harbin' already recorded that Guo Jia Guan served various dishes and catered banquets. Guo Jia Guan was also listed in documents like the 1934 Harbin Daowai Business Directory and the 1937 Harbin Special Municipality Daowai Business and Industry Directory.
Guo Shaoxian was originally from Zhangluji in Shen County, Liaocheng, Shandong. He came to Harbin in the early 1920s during the migration to the Northeast. It is said he started by carrying a basket to sell steamed buns (baozi) on the streets. After saving enough money, he opened Guo Jia Guan on Zhengyang 11th Street in Daowai. Before the public-private partnership, Guo Jia Guan was nearly 100 square meters with 12 large square tables. They served various stir-fried dishes, including braised meat strips (baoroutiao), stir-fried tripe (liuduling), stir-fried clear mirror (liumingjing), crispy fried meat strips (jiaoshaoroutiao), and sweet and sour pork (guobaorou). Head chef Ma Bingsheng was a veteran at Guo Jia Guan with excellent culinary skills. The pastry chef was Jin Guangli. He was skilled at making pan-fried dumplings (guolao), water-fried buns (shuijianbao), meat pies (xianbing), steamed dumplings (shaomai), and steamed dumplings (zhengjiao). The skin of his meat pies was so thin you could see the filling inside.
After the public-private partnership in 1956, Guo Jia Guan merged with several other Hui Muslim restaurants, including Huaxing Hao, to form the Daowai Hui Muslim Restaurant. Guo Shaoxian was assigned to work as a pastry chef at Xiangyang Restaurant (formerly Wu Ji Renyi Restaurant) on Jingyang Street until he retired. Among Guo's descendants, the only one to inherit his skills was his grand-nephew, Guo Dalin. Guo Dalin was born in 1937 in Zhangluji, Shen County, Liaocheng, Shandong. In 1953, at age 16, he moved to Harbin to join his great-uncle Guo Shaoxian and began his apprenticeship at Guo Jia Guan. After the 1956 public-private partnership, Guo Dalin worked at the Daowai Hui Muslim Restaurant. In 1983, he revived the old Guo Jia Guan name. In 2003, he reopened the old Guo Jia Guan on Desheng Street. It has been 20 years since then, and the restaurant is now managed by his granddaughter.
The old Guo Jia Guan does not have many online reviews and has barely advertised itself. It is a down-to-earth local neighborhood spot. They serve classic Harbin Hui Muslim dishes. We ordered stir-fried clear mirror (liumingjing), stir-fried tofu with hot peppers (jianjiaogandoufu), fresh mushroom with meat slices (xianmoroupian), and steamed dumplings (shaomai). Everything was affordable and delicious.
Wuhan, Hubei sticky rice steamed dumplings (shaomei).
Before the demolition of Qiyi Street in Wuchang, there was a lively morning market every day, crowded with people and full of life. On Xiangbi Street (now the eastern section of Bao'an Street), which intersects with Qiyi Street, there was a halal breakfast spot called 'Halal Da Jia Red Oil Beef Noodle Shop.' It was open daily from around 6 or 7 a.m. to 10 a.m. I ate red oil beef thin noodles and a fried dough cake stuffed with a steamed dumpling (youbingjieshaomei) there. The sticky rice inside the steamed dumpling was very fragrant and sweet. This shop is gone now that Qiyi Street has been demolished.
Not far southeast of Qiyi Street, at the intersection of Ping'an Road and Hengping Road, there was another local Wuchang halal breakfast shop called 'Niu Chong Chong Hui Muslim Snack Bar.' The owner's family had lived on Qiyi Street for generations. I ate hot dry noodles (reganmian) and sticky rice, beef, and mushroom steamed dumplings (shaomei) there. Their beef noodles and fried dough cake stuffed with steamed dumplings (youbingbaoshaomei) were also very authentic. This shop is also no longer there today.
Nanjing, Jiangsu egg steamed dumplings (shaomai) and egg yolk steamed dumplings (shaomai).
During the Daoguang era, Ma Sifa, a Hui Muslim from Mengzhou, Henan, fled famine and came to Nanjing with his family. He set up a stall at Yuhuatai to sell beef soup, which people called the 'Ma Huihui Food Stall.' Later, Ma Sifa's son, Ma Shengxiang, officially founded the 'Ma Xiangxing' brand in Huihui Camp, specializing in beef-stewed radishes and stir-fried beef snacks.
In 1912, Ma Shengxiang moved the restaurant across from the Great Bao'en Mosque, focusing on the 'Eight Beef Dishes' (niubayang). At that time, Ma Xiangxing had a Hui Muslim head chef known as 'Old Seven,' who was skilled at making stir-fried tripe (baodusisi) and stir-fried chicken liver. After Ma Shengxiang passed away in 1925, his second son, Ma Deming, took over the business. Ma Xiangxing shifted from cooked food and small stir-fries to banquet dishes, while adding various local-style chicken, duck, fish, shrimp, and egg dishes. After the capital moved to Nanjing in 1927, Ma Xiangxing became increasingly famous under the cooking of head chef Ma Dingsong. At that time, various Republic of China officials became regulars at Ma Xiangxing. The Ministry of Foreign Affairs often hosted foreign guests there, and diplomats from various countries frequently held banquets at the restaurant. During this period, Ma Deming created four famous dishes: beauty liver (meiren gan), squirrel fish (songshu yu), phoenix tail shrimp (fengwei xia), and egg steamed dumplings (dan shaomai).
People say the egg steamed dumplings were invented by Ma Xiangxing head chef Jin Hongyi to suit the taste of Bai Chongxi. Egg steamed dumplings are made with a filling of shrimp, chicken fat, and egg whites, wrapped in a thin egg skin. After steaming, they are topped with a sauce made from chicken broth, water chestnut starch, and duck fat. Today, the ingredients for egg steamed dumplings are shrimp paste, celery, and eggs.
The snack bar on the first floor also serves egg yolk steamed dumplings.
Singapore fresh shrimp and chicken Cantonese-style steamed dumplings (shaomai).
The Dim Sum Place is a very famous halal Cantonese-style tea restaurant in Singapore. It specializes in Cantonese dim sum and various Cantonese dishes, offering a wide variety. They opened on North Bridge Road in Kampong Glam in 2016 and have since opened two more branches. They are very popular with Muslims.
We ordered steamed chicken feet with sauce, fresh shrimp and chicken steamed dumplings, roasted chicken char siu rice rolls, fish fillet porridge, and Pu'er tea. Since we were there for afternoon tea rather than a full meal, there were still many things we wanted to try but didn't order.
Malaysia Seremban fresh shrimp Cantonese-style steamed dumplings.
After taking a taxi 50 kilometers southeast from Kuala Lumpur Airport, you arrive in Seremban, the capital of Negeri Sembilan state. We first had morning tea at a Chinese Muslim restaurant called Muhammad Kew Chinese Muslim Kitchen. We ordered chicken char siu buns, wontons, Cantonese-style egg rice, and shrimp steamed dumplings, all of which were delicious. Unfortunately, the Chinese owner was busy in the kitchen, so we didn't get to meet him, but we did meet his Malay wife, who was warm and friendly. The steamed dumplings are filled with shrimp and minced meat, giving them a unique flavor.
Malaysia Malacca Cantonese-style steamed dumplings.
Chan Mari Chan is a sub-brand of the large Malaysian Chinese Muslim restaurant chain Mohd Chan, focusing on affordable home-style snacks. The founder of Mohd Chan, Dato HJ Mohd Chan, was born in Gombak, Selangor. Influenced by his Malay friends, he converted to Islam in 2007 and began running his restaurant that same year. He has since been combining Nanyang Chinese cuisine with Malay flavors and has built it into the most famous and largest Chinese Muslim restaurant chain in Malaysia.
In January this year, we ate at a Mohd Chan restaurant in Seremban, Malaysia. You order from a menu there, and they serve a variety of Nanyang Chinese banquet dishes, which are relatively high-end. Chan Mari Chan focuses on fast food and snacks where you pick up your food directly from the counter. Chicken rice, small bowl dishes, and steamed items are the most popular. We picked up roasted chicken rice, three small bowl dishes, two types of steamed dumplings, and drank herbal jelly coffee and cocoa coffee. Eating at their place wiped away the fatigue of our journey, and we instantly felt embraced by Nanyang culture, which was very satisfying.
Their environment is also very nice, and many Malay friends (dosti) come to eat there with their families. Their shop even has a prayer room, which makes them a great example for us Hui Muslims.
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Summary: This food note compares lamb steamed dumplings, sticky rice steamed dumplings, and Cantonese-style shaomai through taste, texture, and regional food habits. It keeps the original dish names, photos, restaurant details, and eating notes for readers interested in halal Chinese food.
Historical records show that people in Beijing were eating minced meat steamed dumplings (shaomai) as early as the Yuan Dynasty. In the late Yuan and early Ming dynasties, a textbook for Koreans learning Chinese called 'Pak Tongsa Eonhae' described the customs of the Yuan capital, Dadu, and included several notes on shaomai: 'Made from wheat flour dough rolled into thin sheets, filled with meat, and steamed, then eaten with soup. The local dialect calls them shaomai, with the character mai sometimes written as the character for sell... The skin is thin, filled with chopped meat, and the top is gathered tightly like a tied thread, hence the name shaomai... Made with a flour skin and meat filling, the top is shaped like a flower bud, which the local dialect calls shaomai'.
Currently, shaomai can be divided into three main categories: northern meat-filled shaomai, southern sticky rice shaomai, and Cantonese-style siu mai. Northern shaomai are common in Inner Mongolia, Shanxi, North China, and the Northeast. Southern shaomai are found in the Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Hubei regions, while Cantonese-style siu mai are widely distributed across Southeast Asia due to migration.
I will share some of the shaomai I have eaten, including lamb, sticky rice, and Cantonese styles.
Lamb shaomai at Balizhuang Mosque in Beijing.
On the eleventh day of Ramadan in 2024, the elders at Balizhuang Mosque outside Chaoyangmen made shaomai together in the afternoon. The skins were thin, the meat filling was generous and fragrant, and dipping them in Laba vinegar really brought out the flavor. They also fried chicken strips and cooked rice porridge. I met three sisters from Yunnan who came specifically for this, and I felt very grateful to Allah.
Lianying Inner Mongolia Shaomai in Beijing.
There is a branch of the old Jining, Inner Mongolia brand Lianying Shaomai near Huguosi in Beijing. I ate their wild onion (shacong) and lamb, lamb leg, and vegetarian three-delicacy shaomai. The wild onion has a strong flavor, somewhere between green onion and chives. The lamb leg version uses large green onions, which suits most people's tastes, and the small chunks of lamb have a nice chew. The vegetarian three-delicacy filling is made of chives, eggs, shiitake mushrooms, wood ear mushrooms, and shrimp, giving it a rich texture.
Annei Laoma Inner Mongolia Shaomai in Beijing.
Inside Andingmen in Beijing, there is a shop called Annei Laoma Shaomai run by Hui Muslims from Hohhot. I had their beef and fennel shaomai and lamb offal soup. They serve authentic Hohhot-style food. The shaomai tasted fine, but they were very oily, leaving a greasy feeling in my mouth afterward. The lamb offal soup also tasted fine, but it was not made to order, and the texture suffered after sitting for a while.
Indonesian Siomay at the Beijing Indonesian Cultural Festival.
I attended the annual Indonesian Cultural Festival at the Indonesian Embassy. We started by eating Indonesian siomay. Indonesian siomay originated from Cantonese siu mai. It was first adapted by the Sundanese people of West Java, who replaced the pork filling with fish and added side dishes like cabbage, tofu, potatoes, boiled eggs, and stuffed bitter melon. It is served with peanut sauce and sweet soy sauce and is now a classic street snack across Indonesia.
Lamb shaomai in Shanhaiguan, Hebei.
Yingxinyuan Restaurant is located not far south of the mosque on Guancheng West Road. The elders at the mosque recommended it to me, saying they host guests from the mosque there. I arrived after 3:00 PM. The cook finished my meal and then took a break, as the afternoon shift didn't start until 4:30 PM. The owner said they usually don't have many customers after 2:00 PM, so I was quite lucky. Knowing that portions get bigger the further northeast you go, I ordered a steamer of beef and cabbage steamed dumplings (shaomai) and a plate of sweet and sour pork tenderloin (tangcu liji), but I still couldn't finish it all. The taste was excellent, though! The even larger Qinhuangdao mixed hot pot (hunguo) will have to wait until I can come back with a group of people.
Lamb steamed dumplings (shaomai) in Chengde, Hebei.
In the morning, I had almond tea (xingren cha), meatball soup (wanzi tang), steamed dumplings (shaomai), and steamed dumplings (zhengjiao) at the famous Tuojie Snacks in Chengde. There are many halal snacks in the Shaanxiying area of Chengde, including lamb soup (yangtang), buckwheat noodles (heluo mian), door-nail meat pies (mending roubing), steamed dumplings (shaomai), almond tea (xingren cha), stomach-wrapped meat (dubaorou), stomach-wrapped brains (dubaonao), lamb neck skewers (yangbo chuan), fermented bean drink (douzhi), and bowl jelly (wantuo).
Since the Qing Dynasty built the Mountain Resort in 1703, Hui Muslims have gradually settled in Chengde. Whenever Emperor Kangxi held the Mulan autumn hunt or came to the resort to escape the summer heat, Hui Muslim officers, soldiers, and merchants would follow him. In the early years of Emperor Yongzheng's reign, the Qing government stationed Green Standard Army troops in Chengde. Because most of the officers and soldiers came from Shaanxi, it was called Shaanxiying, and the 'Left Battalion' among them was mostly made up of Hui Muslims. From then on, Shaanxiying became a residential area for Hui Muslims in Chengde.
By the time of Emperor Qianlong, Chengde had become a major metropolis north of the Great Wall. Hui Muslims from Shandong and Hebei flocked there to do business, working in the food industry and cattle and sheep slaughtering, which was known as 'chasing the imperial camp' (gan huangying). Today, the ten major surnames of Chengde's Hui Muslims, such as Wang, Ma, Shi, and Chen, all moved from Shandong, while the Wu surname moved from Cangzhou, Hebei, and the Kong surname moved from Beijing.
Lamb steamed dumplings (shaomai) in Datong, Shanxi.
I took the high-speed train from Beijing to Datong in the morning. After getting off, I headed straight to the famous Fuxingzhai Shaomai on Jiaochang Street for lunch, where I ordered steamed dumplings (shaomai), Mongolian salty milk tea (menggu xian naicha), a basin of egg soup (penpen jidan tang), and oil-seared meat (guoyou rou). Their steamed dumplings (shaomai) were truly delicious and went great with the milk tea.
Lamb steamed dumplings (shaomei) in Taiyuan, Shanxi.
The street-front shops outside the old mosque in Taiyuan were built when Dananmen Street was widened. On both sides of the main gate are beef and mutton shops, and there is one on the south side that always has a long line. A little further south is the Huifengyuan restaurant, which sells steamed dumplings (shaomei), lamb soup (yangtang), meatball soup (wanzi tang), and various other snacks. I had lamb soup (yangrou tang) and steamed dumplings (shaomei) here, and both were exceptionally good.
Since the Ming and Qing dynasties, Hui Muslims in Taiyuan have lived in the area around the South Gate of the old city. During the Qing Dynasty, Taiyuan had over a hundred local Hui Muslim households, plus a dozen or so Hui Muslim households who came from Suiyuan to do business, totaling five or six hundred people. After the Zhengtai Railway opened in 1907, the number of Hui Muslims coming to Taiyuan from Hebei increased significantly, reaching over 1,000 in the 1930s and over 5,100 in the early days of the People's Republic of China.
Lamb steamed dumplings (shaomai) in Hohhot, Inner Mongolia.
I ate steamed dumplings (shaomai) and drank brick tea at Qingyuanchun on Nanshuncheng Street. I personally like this place; I ate here during my previous visit to Hohhot as well.
Qingyuanchun is a long-standing shaomai shop. In 1796 (the first year of the Jiaqing reign), Li Chun started selling shaomai from a wheelbarrow in Guihua City. He made them on the spot, and they were very popular. In 1828 (the eighth year of the Daoguang reign), Li Chun's son, Li Guangyuan, rented two wooden rooms outside the Lanma Wall in Guihua City and officially opened the Qingyuanchun shaomai shop. In 1956, brothers Li Hongtu and Li Mingqing renovated the thirty-square-meter shop and reopened it. The fifth generation, Li Jiting, took over in 1963, and the sixth generation, Li Yongqing, took over in 2009. It is a famous halal shaomai shop in Hohhot.
Lamb shaomai in Shenyang, Liaoning.
I took a high-speed train from Beijing Chaoyang Station to Shenyang in the evening. The next morning, I went to the Lijiang Morning Market in Shenyang and had lamb soup, shaomai, and pan-fried meat pies (huitou) at Heige Lamb Soup. The breakfast stalls at the morning market are all about being affordable! Shaomai cost 7 yuan per steamer, and meat pies cost 2 yuan each. It is hard to find prices like this in a restaurant. They make everything fresh to order. The lamb in the soup is fresh meat the owner cuts at home. He slices it thin, and it cooks quickly when swished in the hot soup, keeping it very tender.
Lamb shaomai in Jinzhou, Liaoning.
I took a train from Beijing Chaoyang Station to Jinzhou North Station in the morning, then had a steamer of shaomai and a bowl of lamb soup in Jinzhou. The price was very affordable.
Lamb shaomai in Luyang, Liaoning.
After getting off at Goubangzi Railway Station, I took a 10-minute taxi ride to Luyang Town in the west. Luyang Mosque is not far from the Luyang Bridge. We were warmly welcomed at Luyang Mosque. Director Jin of the mosque management committee treated us to a hearty meal at his restaurant, Donglaishun. Director Jin's ancestral home was Xiaoxinzhuang in Jinan, Shandong. His ancestors moved to Guozhiwa in Hejian, Hebei, and then to Yingkou, Liaoning, before finally settling in Luyang Town during the Republic of China era. Director Jin has been the director of Luyang Mosque for over a decade. He knows the local history and folklore of Luyang very well and told us several very interesting local legends.
Besides the large portions, the food was super delicious. The most notable dish was the shaomai; I can even say it was the best I have ever had! Their shaomai are a bit like the thin-skinned buns (baozi) from Xinjiang. The skin is so thin you can see the filling inside. The onion flavor stands out, the saltiness is just right, and they are not greasy but very fragrant.
Lamb shaomai in Harbin, Heilongjiang.
I ate shaomai at Lao Guo Jia Guan, a century-old halal shop on Desheng Street in the Daowai District of Harbin. We actually discovered this place by accident while passing by in a taxi the night before. As a son-in-law of the Guo family, I happened to be talking to my wife about how rarely we see halal restaurants opened by the Guo family, and then I turned my head and saw this place! I quickly noted it down on my phone and went to eat there the next day.
Guo Jia Guan was founded by Guo Shaoxian in 1927 on Zhengyang 11th Street in Daowai. The 1933 'Guide to Greater Harbin' already recorded that Guo Jia Guan served various dishes and catered banquets. Guo Jia Guan was also listed in documents like the 1934 Harbin Daowai Business Directory and the 1937 Harbin Special Municipality Daowai Business and Industry Directory.
Guo Shaoxian was originally from Zhangluji in Shen County, Liaocheng, Shandong. He came to Harbin in the early 1920s during the migration to the Northeast. It is said he started by carrying a basket to sell steamed buns (baozi) on the streets. After saving enough money, he opened Guo Jia Guan on Zhengyang 11th Street in Daowai. Before the public-private partnership, Guo Jia Guan was nearly 100 square meters with 12 large square tables. They served various stir-fried dishes, including braised meat strips (baoroutiao), stir-fried tripe (liuduling), stir-fried clear mirror (liumingjing), crispy fried meat strips (jiaoshaoroutiao), and sweet and sour pork (guobaorou). Head chef Ma Bingsheng was a veteran at Guo Jia Guan with excellent culinary skills. The pastry chef was Jin Guangli. He was skilled at making pan-fried dumplings (guolao), water-fried buns (shuijianbao), meat pies (xianbing), steamed dumplings (shaomai), and steamed dumplings (zhengjiao). The skin of his meat pies was so thin you could see the filling inside.
After the public-private partnership in 1956, Guo Jia Guan merged with several other Hui Muslim restaurants, including Huaxing Hao, to form the Daowai Hui Muslim Restaurant. Guo Shaoxian was assigned to work as a pastry chef at Xiangyang Restaurant (formerly Wu Ji Renyi Restaurant) on Jingyang Street until he retired. Among Guo's descendants, the only one to inherit his skills was his grand-nephew, Guo Dalin. Guo Dalin was born in 1937 in Zhangluji, Shen County, Liaocheng, Shandong. In 1953, at age 16, he moved to Harbin to join his great-uncle Guo Shaoxian and began his apprenticeship at Guo Jia Guan. After the 1956 public-private partnership, Guo Dalin worked at the Daowai Hui Muslim Restaurant. In 1983, he revived the old Guo Jia Guan name. In 2003, he reopened the old Guo Jia Guan on Desheng Street. It has been 20 years since then, and the restaurant is now managed by his granddaughter.
The old Guo Jia Guan does not have many online reviews and has barely advertised itself. It is a down-to-earth local neighborhood spot. They serve classic Harbin Hui Muslim dishes. We ordered stir-fried clear mirror (liumingjing), stir-fried tofu with hot peppers (jianjiaogandoufu), fresh mushroom with meat slices (xianmoroupian), and steamed dumplings (shaomai). Everything was affordable and delicious.
Wuhan, Hubei sticky rice steamed dumplings (shaomei).
Before the demolition of Qiyi Street in Wuchang, there was a lively morning market every day, crowded with people and full of life. On Xiangbi Street (now the eastern section of Bao'an Street), which intersects with Qiyi Street, there was a halal breakfast spot called 'Halal Da Jia Red Oil Beef Noodle Shop.' It was open daily from around 6 or 7 a.m. to 10 a.m. I ate red oil beef thin noodles and a fried dough cake stuffed with a steamed dumpling (youbingjieshaomei) there. The sticky rice inside the steamed dumpling was very fragrant and sweet. This shop is gone now that Qiyi Street has been demolished.
Not far southeast of Qiyi Street, at the intersection of Ping'an Road and Hengping Road, there was another local Wuchang halal breakfast shop called 'Niu Chong Chong Hui Muslim Snack Bar.' The owner's family had lived on Qiyi Street for generations. I ate hot dry noodles (reganmian) and sticky rice, beef, and mushroom steamed dumplings (shaomei) there. Their beef noodles and fried dough cake stuffed with steamed dumplings (youbingbaoshaomei) were also very authentic. This shop is also no longer there today.
Nanjing, Jiangsu egg steamed dumplings (shaomai) and egg yolk steamed dumplings (shaomai).
During the Daoguang era, Ma Sifa, a Hui Muslim from Mengzhou, Henan, fled famine and came to Nanjing with his family. He set up a stall at Yuhuatai to sell beef soup, which people called the 'Ma Huihui Food Stall.' Later, Ma Sifa's son, Ma Shengxiang, officially founded the 'Ma Xiangxing' brand in Huihui Camp, specializing in beef-stewed radishes and stir-fried beef snacks.
In 1912, Ma Shengxiang moved the restaurant across from the Great Bao'en Mosque, focusing on the 'Eight Beef Dishes' (niubayang). At that time, Ma Xiangxing had a Hui Muslim head chef known as 'Old Seven,' who was skilled at making stir-fried tripe (baodusisi) and stir-fried chicken liver. After Ma Shengxiang passed away in 1925, his second son, Ma Deming, took over the business. Ma Xiangxing shifted from cooked food and small stir-fries to banquet dishes, while adding various local-style chicken, duck, fish, shrimp, and egg dishes. After the capital moved to Nanjing in 1927, Ma Xiangxing became increasingly famous under the cooking of head chef Ma Dingsong. At that time, various Republic of China officials became regulars at Ma Xiangxing. The Ministry of Foreign Affairs often hosted foreign guests there, and diplomats from various countries frequently held banquets at the restaurant. During this period, Ma Deming created four famous dishes: beauty liver (meiren gan), squirrel fish (songshu yu), phoenix tail shrimp (fengwei xia), and egg steamed dumplings (dan shaomai).
People say the egg steamed dumplings were invented by Ma Xiangxing head chef Jin Hongyi to suit the taste of Bai Chongxi. Egg steamed dumplings are made with a filling of shrimp, chicken fat, and egg whites, wrapped in a thin egg skin. After steaming, they are topped with a sauce made from chicken broth, water chestnut starch, and duck fat. Today, the ingredients for egg steamed dumplings are shrimp paste, celery, and eggs.
The snack bar on the first floor also serves egg yolk steamed dumplings.
Singapore fresh shrimp and chicken Cantonese-style steamed dumplings (shaomai).
The Dim Sum Place is a very famous halal Cantonese-style tea restaurant in Singapore. It specializes in Cantonese dim sum and various Cantonese dishes, offering a wide variety. They opened on North Bridge Road in Kampong Glam in 2016 and have since opened two more branches. They are very popular with Muslims.
We ordered steamed chicken feet with sauce, fresh shrimp and chicken steamed dumplings, roasted chicken char siu rice rolls, fish fillet porridge, and Pu'er tea. Since we were there for afternoon tea rather than a full meal, there were still many things we wanted to try but didn't order.
Malaysia Seremban fresh shrimp Cantonese-style steamed dumplings.
After taking a taxi 50 kilometers southeast from Kuala Lumpur Airport, you arrive in Seremban, the capital of Negeri Sembilan state. We first had morning tea at a Chinese Muslim restaurant called Muhammad Kew Chinese Muslim Kitchen. We ordered chicken char siu buns, wontons, Cantonese-style egg rice, and shrimp steamed dumplings, all of which were delicious. Unfortunately, the Chinese owner was busy in the kitchen, so we didn't get to meet him, but we did meet his Malay wife, who was warm and friendly. The steamed dumplings are filled with shrimp and minced meat, giving them a unique flavor.
Malaysia Malacca Cantonese-style steamed dumplings.
Chan Mari Chan is a sub-brand of the large Malaysian Chinese Muslim restaurant chain Mohd Chan, focusing on affordable home-style snacks. The founder of Mohd Chan, Dato HJ Mohd Chan, was born in Gombak, Selangor. Influenced by his Malay friends, he converted to Islam in 2007 and began running his restaurant that same year. He has since been combining Nanyang Chinese cuisine with Malay flavors and has built it into the most famous and largest Chinese Muslim restaurant chain in Malaysia.
In January this year, we ate at a Mohd Chan restaurant in Seremban, Malaysia. You order from a menu there, and they serve a variety of Nanyang Chinese banquet dishes, which are relatively high-end. Chan Mari Chan focuses on fast food and snacks where you pick up your food directly from the counter. Chicken rice, small bowl dishes, and steamed items are the most popular. We picked up roasted chicken rice, three small bowl dishes, two types of steamed dumplings, and drank herbal jelly coffee and cocoa coffee. Eating at their place wiped away the fatigue of our journey, and we instantly felt embraced by Nanyang culture, which was very satisfying.
Their environment is also very nice, and many Malay friends (dosti) come to eat there with their families. Their shop even has a prayer room, which makes them a great example for us Hui Muslims.
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Halal Travel Guide: Kairouan, Tunisia - Great Mosque and Jumu'ah (Part 2)
Reposted from the web
Summary: This second part of the Kairouan travel account continues around the Great Mosque and the old city after Jumu'ah. It keeps the original mosque details, street scenes, photographs, and Muslim travel observations for readers interested in Tunisia's Islamic heritage.
Street views of the old medina in Kairouan.
Kairouan was the capital of the Aghlabid and Zirid dynasties between the 9th and 11th centuries. The Aghlabid dynasty was an Arab emirate nominally under the Abbasid Caliphate. Kairouan grew quickly during this time and became known for its wealth and prosperity, rivaling cities like Basra and Kufa within the Abbasid realm. The Zirid dynasty was a Berber emirate nominally under the Fatimid Caliphate. Kairouan reached its peak in art, trade, and agriculture during this period, with education flourishing in particular. In the 1040s, the Zirid dynasty declared independence from the Fatimid Caliphate and recognized the Abbasid Caliphate. The Fatimid Caliphate then sent a group of Arab tribes to invade Kairouan. In 1057, these Arab tribes captured and destroyed Kairouan. The Zirid dynasty was forced to move its capital to Mahdia, and Kairouan never regained its former prosperity.
In the Kairouan medina market, various sweets are very popular, especially the date-filled pastry known as Makroudh.
They also sell fresh dates here. They are quite sweet, though slightly more astringent than the dried ones.
The 18th-century Kairouan Bey residence, Dar El Bey, is now a carpet shop. The residence has 18 rooms inside with very ornate ceilings. However, if you do not plan to buy a carpet, the staff might not let you see all the rooms.
The office of the Kairouan Poetry Association; this kind of ornate ceiling is a signature feature of Kairouan.
The ancient Bir Barrouta well in Kairouan. Legend says it was dug by the Abbasid governor Ibn El Ayoun in 796, and the current domed structure was rebuilt by the Bey of Tunis, Mohamed, in 1690. It is still in operation today, using a camel to power a water wheel (noria) to draw water, which people collect in clay pots.
A gongbei built in 1829 in the old medina of Kairouan.
The Zeitouna Mosque outside the west gate of the old medina in Kairouan. Its architectural style is similar to the Great Mosque of Kairouan, but it is smaller in scale.
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Summary: This second part of the Kairouan travel account continues around the Great Mosque and the old city after Jumu'ah. It keeps the original mosque details, street scenes, photographs, and Muslim travel observations for readers interested in Tunisia's Islamic heritage.
Street views of the old medina in Kairouan.
Kairouan was the capital of the Aghlabid and Zirid dynasties between the 9th and 11th centuries. The Aghlabid dynasty was an Arab emirate nominally under the Abbasid Caliphate. Kairouan grew quickly during this time and became known for its wealth and prosperity, rivaling cities like Basra and Kufa within the Abbasid realm. The Zirid dynasty was a Berber emirate nominally under the Fatimid Caliphate. Kairouan reached its peak in art, trade, and agriculture during this period, with education flourishing in particular. In the 1040s, the Zirid dynasty declared independence from the Fatimid Caliphate and recognized the Abbasid Caliphate. The Fatimid Caliphate then sent a group of Arab tribes to invade Kairouan. In 1057, these Arab tribes captured and destroyed Kairouan. The Zirid dynasty was forced to move its capital to Mahdia, and Kairouan never regained its former prosperity.
In the Kairouan medina market, various sweets are very popular, especially the date-filled pastry known as Makroudh.
They also sell fresh dates here. They are quite sweet, though slightly more astringent than the dried ones.
The 18th-century Kairouan Bey residence, Dar El Bey, is now a carpet shop. The residence has 18 rooms inside with very ornate ceilings. However, if you do not plan to buy a carpet, the staff might not let you see all the rooms.
The office of the Kairouan Poetry Association; this kind of ornate ceiling is a signature feature of Kairouan.
The ancient Bir Barrouta well in Kairouan. Legend says it was dug by the Abbasid governor Ibn El Ayoun in 796, and the current domed structure was rebuilt by the Bey of Tunis, Mohamed, in 1690. It is still in operation today, using a camel to power a water wheel (noria) to draw water, which people collect in clay pots.
A gongbei built in 1829 in the old medina of Kairouan.
The Zeitouna Mosque outside the west gate of the old medina in Kairouan. Its architectural style is similar to the Great Mosque of Kairouan, but it is smaller in scale.
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Muslim Culture Guide: Pakistan Embassy School International Culture Day
Reposted from the web
Summary: This article records a visit to International Culture Day at the Pakistan Embassy School, with food, performances, students, and community life at the center. It keeps the original event details, photographs, names, and cultural observations for readers interested in Pakistan and Muslim community events in Beijing.
On November 2, 2024, I attended the annual International Cultural Day at the Pakistan Embassy College in China.
The Commercial Counselor of the Palestinian Embassy in China was there to introduce Palestinian culture, and everyone wrote messages of support for Palestine on postcards.
The first booth inside was Azerbaijan. We started by eating the famous Ottoman dessert baklava (Paxlavası), which is a classic treat for major occasions like Nowruz. Different ethnic groups in Azerbaijan, such as Azerbaijanis, Lezgins, and Tats, all have their own style of making baklava. We ate a version made with walnuts, vanilla sugar, honey, and saffron, which was delicious.
They also had classic Azerbaijani dishes like rice pilaf (Plov), stuffed grape leaves (Dolma), stuffed chicken (Levengi), grilled vegetable salad (Mangal), herb-filled flatbread (Qutab), and vegetable yogurt soup (Dovga). Levengi is made by stuffing a chicken with walnuts, onions, and various spices before roasting it. Dovga is a classic drink served at Azerbaijani weddings, made by mixing yogurt with cilantro, dill, mint, spinach, and other vegetables.
The second booth was Yemen, where we drank Yemeni coffee and had some special desserts. Although coffee is now a popular drink everywhere, it actually originated in Yemeni Sufi lodges. According to current records, Yemeni Sufi lodges had already introduced coffee beans from Ethiopia to Yemen for cultivation by the 15th century. They were the first to roast the beans to make coffee, which helped them stay awake during night prayers (namaz). Mocha is an important Yemeni port on the Red Sea. From the 15th to the 17th century, it was the world's largest coffee trading center and even held a monopoly. Before the 20th century, Mocha referred to Yemeni coffee; it was only later that the term began to describe coffee mixed with chocolate.
Moving forward, we reached the Bangladesh booth, where we drank masala tea and ate a traditional Bangladeshi dessert called vermicelli pudding (Lachcha Shemai). This snack consists of thin noodles layered together and soaked in sweet milk, and it is a classic wedding dessert in Bangladesh.
Further inside were the Malaysia and Indonesia booths. At the Malaysia booth, we bought coconut rice (Nasi Lemak) and curry puffs (Karipap). At the Indonesia booth, we bought savory sticky rice rolls (Lemper) and shaved ice dessert (Cendol).
The coconut rice sold here was the most traditional and simple version, consisting of white rice with chili paste (sambal), dried anchovies, peanuts, and a boiled egg.
Karipap is a flaky curry puff that appeared in Malaysia during the 19th-century British colonial era, influenced by British pasties and Indian samosas, and later spread throughout Southeast Asia.
Lemper is a savory sticky rice roll filled with shredded chicken or fish floss, wrapped in a banana leaf.
Next were the Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, and Xinjiang booths.
Uzbekistan had flaky baked buns (samsa) and freshly cooked rice pilaf (plov), which my mother-in-law thought tasted very good.
The Tajikistan booth was probably the most impressive this time, with a huge pot full of chicken stew!
The man at the Xinjiang booth is from Hotan, though he was born in Pakistan. The fried dough twists (sanzi) at the booth were delicious, and Suleiman couldn't stop eating them.
Booths for three North African countries. I ate dates at the Libya booth, dried fruit at the Morocco booth, and the classic street food Koshary at the Egypt booth.
Koshary is a mix of pasta, macaroni, Egyptian rice, and lentils, topped with tomato sauce, garlic sauce, chickpeas, and fried onions. As early as ancient Egypt, people ate a dish called Koshir made from lentils, wheat, chickpeas, garlic, and onions cooked in clay pots. It only evolved into the modern Koshary after the introduction of pasta and tomatoes in the 19th century. This snack is vegan and very cheap, making it a typical Egyptian comfort food for the common people.
Moving further in, we found Turkey and Turkmenistan, where we kept trying all kinds of snacks.
The innermost area was the Pakistan section, featuring various foods and clothing displays, including famous Beijing Pakistani restaurants Khan Baba and Zamzam. We bought freshly grilled chicken skewers and a large pot of chicken biryani at Zamzam. Suleiman also ate a few chicken skewers; it seems he adapts quite well to Pakistani food.
We performed namaz at the embassy school. Pakistanis also mostly follow the Hanafi school of thought, so their movements are basically the same as ours. There was even a basket of caps at the entrance, which matches our custom of wearing a cap for namaz, unlike Arabs or Iranians who do not have this practice.
Children from all over the world showed off their traditional clothing.
I attended several foreign events in Beijing this year; you can often join different embassy activities in Beijing to experience cultures from around the world.
The Saudi Tourism Festival held by the Saudi Tourism Authority at the Temple of Heaven Park: Experience Arab culture at the Temple of Heaven Park.
The Rasa Malaysia festival held at Sanlitun Taikoo Li: Taste Malaysian food in Beijing—2024 Beijing Malaysia Festival.
The International Neighborhood Festival held at the Jianguomen Diplomatic Residence Compound: Taste food from Iran, Azerbaijan, and the Maldives at the International Neighborhood Festival.
Cultural exchange activities hosted by Saudi Arabia, the guest of honor at the Beijing International Book Fair in the China National Convention Center: Experience Saudi culture at the Beijing International Book Fair.
The Indonesian Cultural Festival held at the Indonesian Embassy: Attend the 2024 Indonesian Cultural Festival.
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Summary: This article records a visit to International Culture Day at the Pakistan Embassy School, with food, performances, students, and community life at the center. It keeps the original event details, photographs, names, and cultural observations for readers interested in Pakistan and Muslim community events in Beijing.
On November 2, 2024, I attended the annual International Cultural Day at the Pakistan Embassy College in China.
The Commercial Counselor of the Palestinian Embassy in China was there to introduce Palestinian culture, and everyone wrote messages of support for Palestine on postcards.
The first booth inside was Azerbaijan. We started by eating the famous Ottoman dessert baklava (Paxlavası), which is a classic treat for major occasions like Nowruz. Different ethnic groups in Azerbaijan, such as Azerbaijanis, Lezgins, and Tats, all have their own style of making baklava. We ate a version made with walnuts, vanilla sugar, honey, and saffron, which was delicious.
They also had classic Azerbaijani dishes like rice pilaf (Plov), stuffed grape leaves (Dolma), stuffed chicken (Levengi), grilled vegetable salad (Mangal), herb-filled flatbread (Qutab), and vegetable yogurt soup (Dovga). Levengi is made by stuffing a chicken with walnuts, onions, and various spices before roasting it. Dovga is a classic drink served at Azerbaijani weddings, made by mixing yogurt with cilantro, dill, mint, spinach, and other vegetables.
The second booth was Yemen, where we drank Yemeni coffee and had some special desserts. Although coffee is now a popular drink everywhere, it actually originated in Yemeni Sufi lodges. According to current records, Yemeni Sufi lodges had already introduced coffee beans from Ethiopia to Yemen for cultivation by the 15th century. They were the first to roast the beans to make coffee, which helped them stay awake during night prayers (namaz). Mocha is an important Yemeni port on the Red Sea. From the 15th to the 17th century, it was the world's largest coffee trading center and even held a monopoly. Before the 20th century, Mocha referred to Yemeni coffee; it was only later that the term began to describe coffee mixed with chocolate.
Moving forward, we reached the Bangladesh booth, where we drank masala tea and ate a traditional Bangladeshi dessert called vermicelli pudding (Lachcha Shemai). This snack consists of thin noodles layered together and soaked in sweet milk, and it is a classic wedding dessert in Bangladesh.
Further inside were the Malaysia and Indonesia booths. At the Malaysia booth, we bought coconut rice (Nasi Lemak) and curry puffs (Karipap). At the Indonesia booth, we bought savory sticky rice rolls (Lemper) and shaved ice dessert (Cendol).
The coconut rice sold here was the most traditional and simple version, consisting of white rice with chili paste (sambal), dried anchovies, peanuts, and a boiled egg.
Karipap is a flaky curry puff that appeared in Malaysia during the 19th-century British colonial era, influenced by British pasties and Indian samosas, and later spread throughout Southeast Asia.
Lemper is a savory sticky rice roll filled with shredded chicken or fish floss, wrapped in a banana leaf.
Next were the Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, and Xinjiang booths.
Uzbekistan had flaky baked buns (samsa) and freshly cooked rice pilaf (plov), which my mother-in-law thought tasted very good.
The Tajikistan booth was probably the most impressive this time, with a huge pot full of chicken stew!
The man at the Xinjiang booth is from Hotan, though he was born in Pakistan. The fried dough twists (sanzi) at the booth were delicious, and Suleiman couldn't stop eating them.
Booths for three North African countries. I ate dates at the Libya booth, dried fruit at the Morocco booth, and the classic street food Koshary at the Egypt booth.
Koshary is a mix of pasta, macaroni, Egyptian rice, and lentils, topped with tomato sauce, garlic sauce, chickpeas, and fried onions. As early as ancient Egypt, people ate a dish called Koshir made from lentils, wheat, chickpeas, garlic, and onions cooked in clay pots. It only evolved into the modern Koshary after the introduction of pasta and tomatoes in the 19th century. This snack is vegan and very cheap, making it a typical Egyptian comfort food for the common people.
Moving further in, we found Turkey and Turkmenistan, where we kept trying all kinds of snacks.
The innermost area was the Pakistan section, featuring various foods and clothing displays, including famous Beijing Pakistani restaurants Khan Baba and Zamzam. We bought freshly grilled chicken skewers and a large pot of chicken biryani at Zamzam. Suleiman also ate a few chicken skewers; it seems he adapts quite well to Pakistani food.
We performed namaz at the embassy school. Pakistanis also mostly follow the Hanafi school of thought, so their movements are basically the same as ours. There was even a basket of caps at the entrance, which matches our custom of wearing a cap for namaz, unlike Arabs or Iranians who do not have this practice.
Children from all over the world showed off their traditional clothing.
I attended several foreign events in Beijing this year; you can often join different embassy activities in Beijing to experience cultures from around the world.
The Saudi Tourism Festival held by the Saudi Tourism Authority at the Temple of Heaven Park: Experience Arab culture at the Temple of Heaven Park.
The Rasa Malaysia festival held at Sanlitun Taikoo Li: Taste Malaysian food in Beijing—2024 Beijing Malaysia Festival.
The International Neighborhood Festival held at the Jianguomen Diplomatic Residence Compound: Taste food from Iran, Azerbaijan, and the Maldives at the International Neighborhood Festival.
Cultural exchange activities hosted by Saudi Arabia, the guest of honor at the Beijing International Book Fair in the China National Convention Center: Experience Saudi culture at the Beijing International Book Fair.
The Indonesian Cultural Festival held at the Indonesian Embassy: Attend the 2024 Indonesian Cultural Festival.
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Book Guide: Syria Before the War - Historic Monuments and Heritage
Reposted from the web
Summary: This article recommends a detailed book on Syria's historic monuments before the war, with attention to mosques, old cities, and cultural heritage sites. It keeps the original book information, place names, historical details, and reading notes for readers interested in Syria's Islamic and urban history.
I recently read the new book Light of Civilization in the Crescent Zone. The author, Zhu Huizhong, graduated from the Arabic department at Peking University. He studied at Damascus University from 2004 to 2005, which allowed him to visit historical sites across Syria and create a comprehensive record of what these places looked like before the war. After the Syrian civil war began, many of the sites in the book were severely damaged or destroyed, which makes this book even more valuable.
I really like how the book is written. It follows a clear geographical path, introducing Syria's cultural sites step by step from the capital to the south, center, coast, north, and east. It starts with Damascus and gives a very detailed introduction to the historical buildings throughout the old city.
The highlight of the book is the chapter on Aleppo. After four years of fighting from 2012 to 2016, Aleppo was almost reduced to ruins. More than half of its ancient buildings were severely damaged, and thirty percent were completely destroyed. I am very grateful that the author was able to leave behind a record of this ancient city before the war.
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Summary: This article recommends a detailed book on Syria's historic monuments before the war, with attention to mosques, old cities, and cultural heritage sites. It keeps the original book information, place names, historical details, and reading notes for readers interested in Syria's Islamic and urban history.
I recently read the new book Light of Civilization in the Crescent Zone. The author, Zhu Huizhong, graduated from the Arabic department at Peking University. He studied at Damascus University from 2004 to 2005, which allowed him to visit historical sites across Syria and create a comprehensive record of what these places looked like before the war. After the Syrian civil war began, many of the sites in the book were severely damaged or destroyed, which makes this book even more valuable.
I really like how the book is written. It follows a clear geographical path, introducing Syria's cultural sites step by step from the capital to the south, center, coast, north, and east. It starts with Damascus and gives a very detailed introduction to the historical buildings throughout the old city.
The highlight of the book is the chapter on Aleppo. After four years of fighting from 2012 to 2016, Aleppo was almost reduced to ruins. More than half of its ancient buildings were severely damaged, and thirty percent were completely destroyed. I am very grateful that the author was able to leave behind a record of this ancient city before the war.
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Islamic Art Guide: Tianjin Hui Muslim Brick Carvings - Ma Family and Liu
Reposted from the web
Summary: This article introduces the refined brick carvings of the Hui Muslim Ma family and Liu brick-carving tradition from Tianjin's Northwest Corner. It keeps the original artisan names, exhibition details, photographs, and cultural background for readers interested in Hui Muslim craftsmanship.
The Tianjin Museum displays exquisite brick carvings by the Hui Muslim families known as the 'Fancy Work Ma Family' (Huahuo Majia) and 'Brick Carver Liu' (Kezhuan Liu) from the Northwest Corner.
During the Jiaqing and Daoguang periods of the Qing Dynasty, wealthy merchants like the 'Eight Great Families' of Tianjin built many homes, leading to higher demands for fine brick carvings. During the Daoguang period, a Hui Muslim mason from the Northwest Corner named Ma Shunqing focused on brick carving techniques, known in the trade as 'fancy work' (huahuo), and gradually developed Tianjin brick carving into an independent form of arts and crafts. He created the 'brick-pasting method' (tiezhuan fa), which uses an adhesive made of rosin and yellow wax to attach small bricks onto a brick surface, giving the carvings clear layers for near, middle, and far views.
While creating his own carvings, Ma Shunqing trained a professional team of Hui Muslim brick carvers known as the 'Fancy Work Ma Family' (Huahuo Majia), which included his sons Ma Shaode and Ma Shaoqing, and apprentices like Mu Chenglin and He Baotian. Ma Shaode kept his father's techniques while adding his own style, and Ma Shaoqing further developed the brick-pasting method; both became famous brick carving masters in Tianjin.
During the Republic of China era, Ma Shunqing's grandson Liu Fengming became the standout of the third generation of the 'Fancy Work Ma Family' and was known as 'Brick Carver Liu' (Kezhuan Liu). Liu Fengming began learning brick carving from his grandfather Ma Shunqing and uncle Ma Shaoqing at age 15; his work is rich in content, bold in spirit, and features delicate, skilled knife work that is very artistic. Liu Fengming evolved Ma Shunqing's original method of pasting a single brick into a 'stack-pasting method' (duitie fa) that pastes multiple bricks as needed, making the images more three-dimensional and realistic.
Peonies carved by Ma Shunqing.
Flowers and birds carved by Ma Shaoqing.
The 'Four Loves' (Si'ai Tu) carved by Liu Fengming, featuring Wang Xizhi loving geese, Tao Yuanming loving chrysanthemums, Lin Hejing, and Zhou Dunyi loving lotus flowers.
Flowers and birds carved by Liu Fengming.
Fisherman, woodcutter, farmer, and scholar (yuqiaogengdu) carved by Liu Fengming.
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Summary: This article introduces the refined brick carvings of the Hui Muslim Ma family and Liu brick-carving tradition from Tianjin's Northwest Corner. It keeps the original artisan names, exhibition details, photographs, and cultural background for readers interested in Hui Muslim craftsmanship.
The Tianjin Museum displays exquisite brick carvings by the Hui Muslim families known as the 'Fancy Work Ma Family' (Huahuo Majia) and 'Brick Carver Liu' (Kezhuan Liu) from the Northwest Corner.
During the Jiaqing and Daoguang periods of the Qing Dynasty, wealthy merchants like the 'Eight Great Families' of Tianjin built many homes, leading to higher demands for fine brick carvings. During the Daoguang period, a Hui Muslim mason from the Northwest Corner named Ma Shunqing focused on brick carving techniques, known in the trade as 'fancy work' (huahuo), and gradually developed Tianjin brick carving into an independent form of arts and crafts. He created the 'brick-pasting method' (tiezhuan fa), which uses an adhesive made of rosin and yellow wax to attach small bricks onto a brick surface, giving the carvings clear layers for near, middle, and far views.
While creating his own carvings, Ma Shunqing trained a professional team of Hui Muslim brick carvers known as the 'Fancy Work Ma Family' (Huahuo Majia), which included his sons Ma Shaode and Ma Shaoqing, and apprentices like Mu Chenglin and He Baotian. Ma Shaode kept his father's techniques while adding his own style, and Ma Shaoqing further developed the brick-pasting method; both became famous brick carving masters in Tianjin.
During the Republic of China era, Ma Shunqing's grandson Liu Fengming became the standout of the third generation of the 'Fancy Work Ma Family' and was known as 'Brick Carver Liu' (Kezhuan Liu). Liu Fengming began learning brick carving from his grandfather Ma Shunqing and uncle Ma Shaoqing at age 15; his work is rich in content, bold in spirit, and features delicate, skilled knife work that is very artistic. Liu Fengming evolved Ma Shunqing's original method of pasting a single brick into a 'stack-pasting method' (duitie fa) that pastes multiple bricks as needed, making the images more three-dimensional and realistic.
Peonies carved by Ma Shunqing.
Flowers and birds carved by Ma Shaoqing.
The 'Four Loves' (Si'ai Tu) carved by Liu Fengming, featuring Wang Xizhi loving geese, Tao Yuanming loving chrysanthemums, Lin Hejing, and Zhou Dunyi loving lotus flowers.
Flowers and birds carved by Liu Fengming.
Fisherman, woodcutter, farmer, and scholar (yuqiaogengdu) carved by Liu Fengming.
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Islamic Architecture Guide: Saudi Arabia and UAE Traditional Homes
Reposted from the web
Summary: This article visits traditional homes in Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates, with a focus on courtyard layouts, family spaces, and local building details. It keeps the original travel route, house names, photographs, and cultural observations for readers interested in Muslim heritage and Gulf architecture.
Continued from the previous post:
Visiting traditional homes in Tunisia and Egypt
Visiting traditional homes in southeastern Turkey
Name: Bayt Ba'ishan
Location: Inside the old city of Jeddah, Saudi Arabia
Date: 1923
Introduction: The Ba'ishan family came from the Hadramaut region in eastern Yemen and specialized in the tea and grain trade. The famous Jeddah musician Omar Ba'ishan and the journalist Mohammad Ba'ishan both come from this family. This old house consists of two parts, and the first floor has a small courtyard used as an outdoor space for namaz. There is now a cold drink shop inside where tourists can rest.
Name: Bayt Jeddah
Location: Inside the old city of Jeddah, Saudi Arabia
Date: 1880
Introduction: Bayt Jeddah is also called Salloum's house. It was built by Sheikh Abdullah Bin Obaid Salloum in 1880. It preserves many pieces of furniture used by the Salloum family in the past, including some imported from India that are over 120 years old. The old house has three floors. The first floor is a reception room, and the second floor is the bedroom. You can see many daily items here, including old suitcases, sewing machines, and an old-fashioned kerosene refrigerator. In the old house, you can see the area in the Hejaz region specifically designed to receive female neighbors. In the past, female neighbors used to gather there every afternoon to drink tea and chat.
Name: Crossroad of Civilizations Museum
Location: Inside the Al Shindagha historical district in Dubai, UAE
Date: 19th century
Introduction: The Crossroad of Civilizations Museum is located in a traditional Gulf-style house built in the 19th century. This was the former residence of Sheikh Hashr Bin Maktoum Al Maktoum, the brother of the eighth ruler of Dubai, Sheikh Saeed. It opened as a museum in 2014 and displays many formal book manuscripts and traditional weaponry.
Name: Museum of the Poet Al Oqaili
Location: Inside the Al Ras historical district in Dubai, UAE
Date: 1923
Introduction: The former residence of the poet Al Oqaili (1875-1954). Al Oqaili is a very famous Arab writer who showed a great talent for poetry from a young age. In his middle age, he traveled around the Persian Gulf, living in places like Iraq, Bahrain, and Abu Dhabi, before finally settling in Dubai in the early 20th century. In 1923, he hired craftsmen from his hometown of Al-Ahsa to build this house. The entire building is made of coral, stone, plaster, teak, and palm fronds, along with a traditional Iranian building material called Sarooj. Sarooj is a waterproof mortar made by kneading clay and limestone for two days, then adding bathhouse furnace ash, cattail fibers, eggs, and straw, and finally beating it with wooden sticks.
In 1954, Al Oqaili passed away in this house at the age of 81. He never married or had children, so the house was inherited by his cousin who came from Saudi Arabia.
Name: Al Bait Al Qadeem Restaurant
Location: Inside the Al Ras historical district in Dubai, UAE
Year: 1909
Introduction: Al Bait Alqadeem means old house in Arabic. This restaurant is located in a traditional Gulf-style residence built in 1909 by a pearl boat owner named Abdulla Bin Jamaan, who was also a bodyguard for the ruler of Dubai at the time. In 1954, Abdulla Bin Jamaan became the first mayor of Dubai. Today, this old house has been turned into a restaurant serving traditional Gulf cuisine.
Name: Sharjah Heritage Museum
Location: Inside the Heart of Sharjah historical district in the old city of Sharjah, UAE.
Year: 1795
Introduction: The historical building housing the Sharjah Heritage Museum was built by pearl merchant Saeed bin Mohammed Al Shamsi in 1795. It is also known as Bait Saeed Al Taweel, which means the house of Saeed the Tall. The museum showcases the traditional lifestyle of the people of Sharjah through crafts, folk music, wedding ceremonies, and folktales.
Name: Bait Al Naboodah
Location: Inside the Heart of Sharjah historical district in the old city of Sharjah, UAE.
Year: 1845
Introduction: Bait Al Naboodah is one of the most famous traditional Gulf residences in Sharjah. It was built in 1845 by Obaid bin Eissa Bin Ali Al Shamsi, the wealthiest pearl merchant in 19th-century Sharjah, who was nicknamed Al Naboodah.
Al Naboodah's pearl trade reached Africa, France, and India, and he accumulated massive wealth, especially from his pearl trade with India. In 1845, Al Naboodah rebuilt his father's ancestral home. The new residence featured a large courtyard with coral stone walls, unique Indian teak columns, and plaster carvings made by Persian craftsmen. Additionally, this house did not use the traditional Emirati wind tower (barjeel), but instead pioneered the use of air-scoops (malaqaf) built along the inner walls to circulate air.
The descendants of Al Naboodah lived here until the 1970s, but the building was badly damaged due to years of neglect. In the 1990s, the Sharjah Museums Authority hired a team of historians to carry out a large-scale renovation that lasted several years, and it officially opened to the public in 1995.
The interactive display of the courtyard allows you to click on any building component on the screen to see an introduction and the restoration process for that part.
The coral stones used to build the courtyard come in two types: brain coral and fan coral. After being pulled from the seabed, these corals were dried in the sun, making them very light yet strong. Environmental protection laws now forbid the collection of coral stones, so limestone from the mountains had to be used to repair the damaged coral stones in the courtyard.
Summer temperatures in Sharjah can exceed 45 degrees Celsius. Many people used to hide in the mountains or oases to escape the heat between June and August, a summer migration route known as al maqeedh. With the summer house, people no longer had to travel inland to escape the heat during the summer.
Sharjah residents usually started preparing their summer houses at the end of March. They would coat the inside and outside of the house with a lime powder called norah, which reflects sunlight. The most important feature of the summer house is the many vents on the roof that help air circulate. During the day, wind blowing from the land flows into the house, and at night, the wind comes from the sea.
Toilet
Kitchen
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Summary: This article visits traditional homes in Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates, with a focus on courtyard layouts, family spaces, and local building details. It keeps the original travel route, house names, photographs, and cultural observations for readers interested in Muslim heritage and Gulf architecture.
Continued from the previous post:
Visiting traditional homes in Tunisia and Egypt
Visiting traditional homes in southeastern Turkey
Name: Bayt Ba'ishan
Location: Inside the old city of Jeddah, Saudi Arabia
Date: 1923
Introduction: The Ba'ishan family came from the Hadramaut region in eastern Yemen and specialized in the tea and grain trade. The famous Jeddah musician Omar Ba'ishan and the journalist Mohammad Ba'ishan both come from this family. This old house consists of two parts, and the first floor has a small courtyard used as an outdoor space for namaz. There is now a cold drink shop inside where tourists can rest.
Name: Bayt Jeddah
Location: Inside the old city of Jeddah, Saudi Arabia
Date: 1880
Introduction: Bayt Jeddah is also called Salloum's house. It was built by Sheikh Abdullah Bin Obaid Salloum in 1880. It preserves many pieces of furniture used by the Salloum family in the past, including some imported from India that are over 120 years old. The old house has three floors. The first floor is a reception room, and the second floor is the bedroom. You can see many daily items here, including old suitcases, sewing machines, and an old-fashioned kerosene refrigerator. In the old house, you can see the area in the Hejaz region specifically designed to receive female neighbors. In the past, female neighbors used to gather there every afternoon to drink tea and chat.
Name: Crossroad of Civilizations Museum
Location: Inside the Al Shindagha historical district in Dubai, UAE
Date: 19th century
Introduction: The Crossroad of Civilizations Museum is located in a traditional Gulf-style house built in the 19th century. This was the former residence of Sheikh Hashr Bin Maktoum Al Maktoum, the brother of the eighth ruler of Dubai, Sheikh Saeed. It opened as a museum in 2014 and displays many formal book manuscripts and traditional weaponry.
Name: Museum of the Poet Al Oqaili
Location: Inside the Al Ras historical district in Dubai, UAE
Date: 1923
Introduction: The former residence of the poet Al Oqaili (1875-1954). Al Oqaili is a very famous Arab writer who showed a great talent for poetry from a young age. In his middle age, he traveled around the Persian Gulf, living in places like Iraq, Bahrain, and Abu Dhabi, before finally settling in Dubai in the early 20th century. In 1923, he hired craftsmen from his hometown of Al-Ahsa to build this house. The entire building is made of coral, stone, plaster, teak, and palm fronds, along with a traditional Iranian building material called Sarooj. Sarooj is a waterproof mortar made by kneading clay and limestone for two days, then adding bathhouse furnace ash, cattail fibers, eggs, and straw, and finally beating it with wooden sticks.
In 1954, Al Oqaili passed away in this house at the age of 81. He never married or had children, so the house was inherited by his cousin who came from Saudi Arabia.
Name: Al Bait Al Qadeem Restaurant
Location: Inside the Al Ras historical district in Dubai, UAE
Year: 1909
Introduction: Al Bait Alqadeem means old house in Arabic. This restaurant is located in a traditional Gulf-style residence built in 1909 by a pearl boat owner named Abdulla Bin Jamaan, who was also a bodyguard for the ruler of Dubai at the time. In 1954, Abdulla Bin Jamaan became the first mayor of Dubai. Today, this old house has been turned into a restaurant serving traditional Gulf cuisine.
Name: Sharjah Heritage Museum
Location: Inside the Heart of Sharjah historical district in the old city of Sharjah, UAE.
Year: 1795
Introduction: The historical building housing the Sharjah Heritage Museum was built by pearl merchant Saeed bin Mohammed Al Shamsi in 1795. It is also known as Bait Saeed Al Taweel, which means the house of Saeed the Tall. The museum showcases the traditional lifestyle of the people of Sharjah through crafts, folk music, wedding ceremonies, and folktales.
Name: Bait Al Naboodah
Location: Inside the Heart of Sharjah historical district in the old city of Sharjah, UAE.
Year: 1845
Introduction: Bait Al Naboodah is one of the most famous traditional Gulf residences in Sharjah. It was built in 1845 by Obaid bin Eissa Bin Ali Al Shamsi, the wealthiest pearl merchant in 19th-century Sharjah, who was nicknamed Al Naboodah.
Al Naboodah's pearl trade reached Africa, France, and India, and he accumulated massive wealth, especially from his pearl trade with India. In 1845, Al Naboodah rebuilt his father's ancestral home. The new residence featured a large courtyard with coral stone walls, unique Indian teak columns, and plaster carvings made by Persian craftsmen. Additionally, this house did not use the traditional Emirati wind tower (barjeel), but instead pioneered the use of air-scoops (malaqaf) built along the inner walls to circulate air.
The descendants of Al Naboodah lived here until the 1970s, but the building was badly damaged due to years of neglect. In the 1990s, the Sharjah Museums Authority hired a team of historians to carry out a large-scale renovation that lasted several years, and it officially opened to the public in 1995.
The interactive display of the courtyard allows you to click on any building component on the screen to see an introduction and the restoration process for that part.
The coral stones used to build the courtyard come in two types: brain coral and fan coral. After being pulled from the seabed, these corals were dried in the sun, making them very light yet strong. Environmental protection laws now forbid the collection of coral stones, so limestone from the mountains had to be used to repair the damaged coral stones in the courtyard.
Summer temperatures in Sharjah can exceed 45 degrees Celsius. Many people used to hide in the mountains or oases to escape the heat between June and August, a summer migration route known as al maqeedh. With the summer house, people no longer had to travel inland to escape the heat during the summer.
Sharjah residents usually started preparing their summer houses at the end of March. They would coat the inside and outside of the house with a lime powder called norah, which reflects sunlight. The most important feature of the summer house is the many vents on the roof that help air circulate. During the day, wind blowing from the land flows into the house, and at night, the wind comes from the sea.
Toilet
Kitchen
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Islamic Architecture Guide: Tunisia and Egypt Traditional Homes - Courtyards, Rooms and Heritage
Reposted from the web
Summary: Tunisia and Egypt Traditional Homes - Courtyards, Rooms and Heritage is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, architecture, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Tunisia, Egypt, Traditional Homes.
Name: Dar Bach Hamba
Location: Southern part of the Medina of Tunis.
Date: Built in the 17th century.
Description: The Rassa family built Dar Bach Hamba in the 17th century. This family moved to Tunis from Tlemcen, Algeria, before the 16th century. The house was later owned by the Naccache family and Haj Ahmed Bach Hamba. During the French protectorate period (1881-1956), it became a school run by French nuns.
Dar Bach Hamba is a classic noble residence in the Medina of Tunis. It has a central courtyard with a grand room on each of its four sides, and the north and east rooms feature porches. Today, it serves as the office for the L'Art Rue association. This group works to promote local Tunisian art heritage and provides a space for children's art workshops, concerts, and art projects.
Name: Dar al Jaziri
Location: Northern part of the Medina of Tunis.
Date: Before the 18th century.
Description: Dar al Jaziri served as the home for the Jaziri family in Tunis from the 12th to the 18th century. The Neo Destour party, which led the Tunisian independence movement, held its second congress here in 1937. They also became the ruling party of Tunisia after 1956. Today, it houses the House of Poetry of Tunisia and hosts regular poetry readings.
Dar al Jaziri features a courtyard surrounded by a porch, with very classical columns and capitals, and a water well in the center of the courtyard.
Name: Dar El Monastiri.
Location: Northern part of the Medina of Tunis.
Date: Between 1814 and 1824.
Introduction: Dar El Monastiri was built by Al-Husayn II ibn Mahmud of the Husainid dynasty in Tunisia during the reign of his father, Mahmud (who ruled from 1814 to 1824). It was later given to the Chechia hat merchant M'hamed El Monastiri. After 1924, the building served as an arts and crafts school, an office for craft education, and a regional center for Tunisian arts. Today, it is the National Center for Calligraphy.
The courtyard inside Dar El Monastiri features intricate lime carvings and colorful tiles. The latticed windows (mashrabiya) on the second floor are also very distinctive.
Name: Dar El Bey.
Location: Southern part of the Medina of Kairouan, Tunisia.
Date: 18th century.
Introduction: Built in the 18th century, this former residence of the Bey of Kairouan is now a carpet shop. The house has 18 rooms inside with very fancy ceilings. But if you do not buy a rug, the shop staff might not show you all the rooms.
Name: Bayt al-Kritliyya
Location: Next to the Mosque of Ibn Tulun in Cairo, Egypt.
Date: 1545 and 1631.
Introduction: Bayt al-Kritliyya is built right against the outer wall of the Mosque of Ibn Tulun and is an outstanding example of a traditional Ottoman-era house in Cairo. The residence consists of two houses connected by a bridge. One was built by the scholar Abdel-Qader al-Haddad in 1545, and the other was built by Hajj Mohammad ibn al-Hajj Salem ibn Galman al-Gazzar in 1631. It was later owned by a Muslim noblewoman from the Greek island of Crete, which is how it got the name Bayt al-Kritliyya. In 1928, Egypt began clearing the houses outside the Mosque of Ibn Tulun. This house survived because it was well-preserved, and it was also restored. Major Gayer-Anderson moved into the house in 1935 and filled it with his collection of furniture, carpets, and antiques. When he left Egypt in 1942, he gave the house to the Committee for the Conservation of Arab Monuments, which later turned it into the Gayer-Anderson Museum.
Both houses have their own courtyards, each featuring a fountain from Gayer-Anderson's collection in the center. From one of the courtyards, you can climb up to the summer balcony (Maq'ad) with its horseshoe-shaped arches, where the owner and his guests would go to cool off during the summer.
After passing through the summer balcony, you reach the winter hall, which was the living area for men during the colder months. The hall features a beautiful carved wooden ceiling decorated with fine calligraphy.
Walking further inside leads to the women's and children's quarters (Haramlek), where you can look down over the entire courtyard through the latticed windows (Mashrabiya). The walls of the women's quarters are decorated with Persian and Turkish-style tiles, and the wooden ceilings feature scripture, plant motifs, and geometric patterns.
The largest room in the house is the celebration hall (Salamlek). This is a spacious Ottoman-style room. The lower marble area in the center is called a durqa'a, with a marble fountain (fasqiyya) at the very middle and an arched alcove (iwan) on each side. The room is decorated with verses by the Egyptian poet Ahmed Rami (1892-1981) and several wise sayings.
Above the celebration hall is the harem (haramlek), a space for women and children. From here, you can look down into the celebration hall and watch ceremonies and performances through the windows during festivals.
The third floor holds Gayer-Anderson's various collections, including the Persian, Egyptian, Byzantine, Chinese, Indian, and Turkish rooms. The collection covers major civilizations and is truly fascinating.
The water fountain (sabil) inside Bayt al-Kritliyya. In the old city of Cairo, a sabil is usually found on the side of a road for citizens to drink water, so having one inside a private residence is very rare. The sabil at Bayt al-Kritliyya was built in 1631. Its original painted wooden ceiling is perfectly preserved and features scriptures, the builder's name, and the date of construction. The sabil could store 500 cubic meters of water. Historically, the water carriers' guild (saqgain) was responsible for transporting this water, and the guild operated until the early 20th century.
Name: Bayt al-Suhaymi
Location: Inside the northern gate of Old Cairo, Egypt.
Date: Construction began in 1648, with expansions in 1797.
Introduction: Bayt al-Suhaymi is the best-preserved private Ottoman-era house in Old Cairo and is now open as a tourist site. The house is built around a courtyard (Sahn), which features a small garden with palm trees in the center. You can see beautiful wooden lattice windows (Mashrabiya) in the courtyard. The south side of the mansion is the original 1648 structure, while the north side was added in 1797. It is named after its last owner, Sheikh Muhammad Amin al-Suhaymi, who was a sheikh at Al-Azhar Mosque. In 1930, King Fuad I of Egypt provided funds to buy the mansion and placed it under the management of the Committee for the Conservation of Arab Art Monuments.
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Summary: Tunisia and Egypt Traditional Homes - Courtyards, Rooms and Heritage is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, architecture, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Tunisia, Egypt, Traditional Homes.
Name: Dar Bach Hamba
Location: Southern part of the Medina of Tunis.
Date: Built in the 17th century.
Description: The Rassa family built Dar Bach Hamba in the 17th century. This family moved to Tunis from Tlemcen, Algeria, before the 16th century. The house was later owned by the Naccache family and Haj Ahmed Bach Hamba. During the French protectorate period (1881-1956), it became a school run by French nuns.
Dar Bach Hamba is a classic noble residence in the Medina of Tunis. It has a central courtyard with a grand room on each of its four sides, and the north and east rooms feature porches. Today, it serves as the office for the L'Art Rue association. This group works to promote local Tunisian art heritage and provides a space for children's art workshops, concerts, and art projects.
Name: Dar al Jaziri
Location: Northern part of the Medina of Tunis.
Date: Before the 18th century.
Description: Dar al Jaziri served as the home for the Jaziri family in Tunis from the 12th to the 18th century. The Neo Destour party, which led the Tunisian independence movement, held its second congress here in 1937. They also became the ruling party of Tunisia after 1956. Today, it houses the House of Poetry of Tunisia and hosts regular poetry readings.
Dar al Jaziri features a courtyard surrounded by a porch, with very classical columns and capitals, and a water well in the center of the courtyard.
Name: Dar El Monastiri.
Location: Northern part of the Medina of Tunis.
Date: Between 1814 and 1824.
Introduction: Dar El Monastiri was built by Al-Husayn II ibn Mahmud of the Husainid dynasty in Tunisia during the reign of his father, Mahmud (who ruled from 1814 to 1824). It was later given to the Chechia hat merchant M'hamed El Monastiri. After 1924, the building served as an arts and crafts school, an office for craft education, and a regional center for Tunisian arts. Today, it is the National Center for Calligraphy.
The courtyard inside Dar El Monastiri features intricate lime carvings and colorful tiles. The latticed windows (mashrabiya) on the second floor are also very distinctive.
Name: Dar El Bey.
Location: Southern part of the Medina of Kairouan, Tunisia.
Date: 18th century.
Introduction: Built in the 18th century, this former residence of the Bey of Kairouan is now a carpet shop. The house has 18 rooms inside with very fancy ceilings. But if you do not buy a rug, the shop staff might not show you all the rooms.
Name: Bayt al-Kritliyya
Location: Next to the Mosque of Ibn Tulun in Cairo, Egypt.
Date: 1545 and 1631.
Introduction: Bayt al-Kritliyya is built right against the outer wall of the Mosque of Ibn Tulun and is an outstanding example of a traditional Ottoman-era house in Cairo. The residence consists of two houses connected by a bridge. One was built by the scholar Abdel-Qader al-Haddad in 1545, and the other was built by Hajj Mohammad ibn al-Hajj Salem ibn Galman al-Gazzar in 1631. It was later owned by a Muslim noblewoman from the Greek island of Crete, which is how it got the name Bayt al-Kritliyya. In 1928, Egypt began clearing the houses outside the Mosque of Ibn Tulun. This house survived because it was well-preserved, and it was also restored. Major Gayer-Anderson moved into the house in 1935 and filled it with his collection of furniture, carpets, and antiques. When he left Egypt in 1942, he gave the house to the Committee for the Conservation of Arab Monuments, which later turned it into the Gayer-Anderson Museum.
Both houses have their own courtyards, each featuring a fountain from Gayer-Anderson's collection in the center. From one of the courtyards, you can climb up to the summer balcony (Maq'ad) with its horseshoe-shaped arches, where the owner and his guests would go to cool off during the summer.
After passing through the summer balcony, you reach the winter hall, which was the living area for men during the colder months. The hall features a beautiful carved wooden ceiling decorated with fine calligraphy.
Walking further inside leads to the women's and children's quarters (Haramlek), where you can look down over the entire courtyard through the latticed windows (Mashrabiya). The walls of the women's quarters are decorated with Persian and Turkish-style tiles, and the wooden ceilings feature scripture, plant motifs, and geometric patterns.
The largest room in the house is the celebration hall (Salamlek). This is a spacious Ottoman-style room. The lower marble area in the center is called a durqa'a, with a marble fountain (fasqiyya) at the very middle and an arched alcove (iwan) on each side. The room is decorated with verses by the Egyptian poet Ahmed Rami (1892-1981) and several wise sayings.
Above the celebration hall is the harem (haramlek), a space for women and children. From here, you can look down into the celebration hall and watch ceremonies and performances through the windows during festivals.
The third floor holds Gayer-Anderson's various collections, including the Persian, Egyptian, Byzantine, Chinese, Indian, and Turkish rooms. The collection covers major civilizations and is truly fascinating.
The water fountain (sabil) inside Bayt al-Kritliyya. In the old city of Cairo, a sabil is usually found on the side of a road for citizens to drink water, so having one inside a private residence is very rare. The sabil at Bayt al-Kritliyya was built in 1631. Its original painted wooden ceiling is perfectly preserved and features scriptures, the builder's name, and the date of construction. The sabil could store 500 cubic meters of water. Historically, the water carriers' guild (saqgain) was responsible for transporting this water, and the guild operated until the early 20th century.
Name: Bayt al-Suhaymi
Location: Inside the northern gate of Old Cairo, Egypt.
Date: Construction began in 1648, with expansions in 1797.
Introduction: Bayt al-Suhaymi is the best-preserved private Ottoman-era house in Old Cairo and is now open as a tourist site. The house is built around a courtyard (Sahn), which features a small garden with palm trees in the center. You can see beautiful wooden lattice windows (Mashrabiya) in the courtyard. The south side of the mansion is the original 1648 structure, while the north side was added in 1797. It is named after its last owner, Sheikh Muhammad Amin al-Suhaymi, who was a sheikh at Al-Azhar Mosque. In 1930, King Fuad I of Egypt provided funds to buy the mansion and placed it under the management of the Committee for the Conservation of Arab Art Monuments.
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Halal Travel Guide: Hammamet, Tunisia - Ancient Medina, Beach and Muslim Heritage
Reposted from the web
Summary: Hammamet, Tunisia - Ancient Medina, Beach and Muslim Heritage is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, architecture, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Hammamet, Tunisia Travel, Muslim Heritage.
Hammamet sits halfway between Tunisia's two major cities, Tunis and Sousse, and it is very easy to reach by shared taxi (louage) from either one. Hammamet has been a resort destination since the 1990s, with countless hotels lining the beach and streets full of European faces. The old walled city (medina) here is only about 200 meters long, but it is the most crowded one I have ever seen.
At noon, we caught a ride from the shared taxi station (Station Louage de Sousse) in the southern suburbs of Sousse and arrived at the Hammamet Sud intersection on the west side of Hammamet an hour later, then took a taxi to the old medina. Be aware that Hammamet has two medinas; one is a new replica built by the sea in the 1990s, and we went to the wrong one at first. To get to the old medina, we had to tell the taxi driver we were going to the Hammamet fortress before he understood.
Restaurants near the medina are mostly clustered outside the north wall, serving a mix of Tunisian food and Western dishes. We went to Restaurant Yuman, which has a great view of the fortress and the beach. We ordered pan-fried sea bass and a mixed grill platter. The grill included North African sausage (Merguez), steak, lamb chops, and chicken, all classic dishes from the Tunisian coast.
When ordering at a restaurant in Tunisia, you basically only need to order the main course. Appetizers and staples are served for free. After we placed our order, they first brought us thick soup, followed by a baguette and an appetizer platter. The appetizers included Tunisian salad, carrot salad (Houria), and green pepper salad (Mechouia). We ate these three almost every day in Tunisia. Tunisian salad is just diced cucumber, tomato, and onion mixed with olive oil. Higher-end versions also include boiled eggs and tuna. Green pepper salad (Mechouia) contains green peppers, tomatoes, onions, garlic, and other ingredients. Tunisians love it, and it is rich in vitamins and very healthy.
Hammamet Fortress was first built in 893 AD by order of Ibrahim II, an emir of the Arab Aghlabid dynasty. During this period, the Aghlabid dynasty was constantly conquering Sicily, which was under the control of the Byzantine Empire, while also suppressing Berber uprisings.
The Hammamet Fortress is very sturdy and was built mainly to defend against pirate raids from places like Catalonia and Malta. The fortress was destroyed by the Spanish in the 12th century, rebuilt twice in the 14th and 15th centuries, and the upper walls were strengthened by the Ottoman Empire during the 16th and 17th centuries.
In 1605, a joint fleet from the Spanish Empire, the Kingdom of Sicily, and the Knights Hospitaller attacked the Ottoman-controlled Hammamet Fortress. A heavy rainstorm destroyed their ships and caused massive casualties for the allied forces, making this the most famous battle at the fortress.
Inside the fortress, there are quite a few pine trees, which is rare. There is also a teahouse on the city walls with a great view. In the center of the fortress stands a tomb from the late 15th century. The person buried there, Sidi Bou-Ali Mohamed, was once stationed here and was very devout in his faith.
The walls and gates of the old medina in Hammamet. Hammamet grew from a military fortress into a medina city in the 13th century, so walls were built around the residential area of the medina in the mid-13th century.
The Haouara Gate by the sea was built by the Berber Haouara tribe in the 15th century. They attacked the Hammamet Medina from the sea and saved the city from the enemy.
Sidi Bouhdid Gate leads to the gongbei (Zawiya) of the saint Sidi Bouhdid, which was built in the 18th century. Sidi Bouhdid was a Moroccan who came to Hammamet in the 12th century and spent his time guarding the safety of fishermen by the sea. He died fighting the Normans in 1178 and was buried by the city walls. Today, there is a very popular cafe here.
The streets of the old Hammamet Medina have the classic Tunisian blue-and-white town style, with bougainvillea planted along the streets and iron nails decorating the wooden doors. Hammamet Medina reached its peak in the 14th century, which was also the period when pirate raids from Pisa and Catalonia were most frequent.
After the Ottoman Empire conquered Hammamet in 1574, many Ottoman officers and soldiers were stationed in the city. These Ottomans were strongly influenced by Tunisian culture and were quickly assimilated. The descendants of Ottoman officers and Tunisian women are called Kouloughlis, and many of them have paternal roots in Izmir, Turkey. Unlike the local Tunisians who follow the Maliki school, the Kouloughlis still follow the Hanafi school.
The only date palm tree in the old city is located in the center of Errahba Square. This square was originally the site of two houses belonging to the Bennila family, which were destroyed by bombing during World War II, leaving only the date palm tree behind.
I performed the afternoon namaz at the Great Mosque of Hammamet. Tunisia follows the Maliki school, where the practice of raising the hands once (for the imam) and raising the hands once or three times (for others) coexist peacefully. After the prayer, people stood for the funeral prayer (namaz) right inside the main hall, and the body (mayyit) was kept there too. This is quite different from our Hanafi practice.
The Great Mosque of Hammamet was started in the 12th century and finished in the 13th century. The minaret (bangke ta) was added later in 1463. During this same period, Hammamet grew from a coastal fortress into a residential medina city area. The stone pillars in the Great Mosque of Hammamet are different colors because many were collected from nearby ancient Roman ruins.
In the bazaars of the old city in Tunisia, you often see religious paintings. They show scenes like the Prophet Adam, the sacrifice of Ibrahim, and the Ark of Nuh. The art style is very cute. In the old city of Hammamet, I bought a painting of the Buraq, the creature the noble Prophet rode during his Night Journey (Mi'raj). Although the Hadith does not describe the Buraq's face, it mentions it had a handsome face. Because of this, Persian and South Asian miniature paintings often show the Buraq with a human face and a horse's body. In the Mindanao region of the southern Philippines, people even carve wooden statues of the Buraq.
The bazaars and streets inside the ancient medina of Hammamet.
Looking out at the Mediterranean Sea from the ancient walled city (medina) of Hammamet. This place is just over 200 kilometers from Sicily, Italy. It has been a key spot for controlling the Mediterranean since ancient times, but today it serves as a backyard getaway for European tourists.
Some old houses inside the medina of Hammamet.
The public bathhouse across from the Great Mosque, built in the early 17th century by Abul-l-Gayth al-Qashache. In 1602, Hammamet was attacked by the Knights Hospitaller and many people were taken captive. It was Abul-l-Gayth who paid the ransom to bring them home.
The Islamic school (madrasa) behind the Great Mosque, where children were having class when we visited.
An art studio with an artist-in-residence painting inside.
Another gallery, where we saw a woman making traditional clothing during our visit.
A view overlooking the old city
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Summary: Hammamet, Tunisia - Ancient Medina, Beach and Muslim Heritage is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, architecture, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Hammamet, Tunisia Travel, Muslim Heritage.
Hammamet sits halfway between Tunisia's two major cities, Tunis and Sousse, and it is very easy to reach by shared taxi (louage) from either one. Hammamet has been a resort destination since the 1990s, with countless hotels lining the beach and streets full of European faces. The old walled city (medina) here is only about 200 meters long, but it is the most crowded one I have ever seen.
At noon, we caught a ride from the shared taxi station (Station Louage de Sousse) in the southern suburbs of Sousse and arrived at the Hammamet Sud intersection on the west side of Hammamet an hour later, then took a taxi to the old medina. Be aware that Hammamet has two medinas; one is a new replica built by the sea in the 1990s, and we went to the wrong one at first. To get to the old medina, we had to tell the taxi driver we were going to the Hammamet fortress before he understood.
Restaurants near the medina are mostly clustered outside the north wall, serving a mix of Tunisian food and Western dishes. We went to Restaurant Yuman, which has a great view of the fortress and the beach. We ordered pan-fried sea bass and a mixed grill platter. The grill included North African sausage (Merguez), steak, lamb chops, and chicken, all classic dishes from the Tunisian coast.
When ordering at a restaurant in Tunisia, you basically only need to order the main course. Appetizers and staples are served for free. After we placed our order, they first brought us thick soup, followed by a baguette and an appetizer platter. The appetizers included Tunisian salad, carrot salad (Houria), and green pepper salad (Mechouia). We ate these three almost every day in Tunisia. Tunisian salad is just diced cucumber, tomato, and onion mixed with olive oil. Higher-end versions also include boiled eggs and tuna. Green pepper salad (Mechouia) contains green peppers, tomatoes, onions, garlic, and other ingredients. Tunisians love it, and it is rich in vitamins and very healthy.
Hammamet Fortress was first built in 893 AD by order of Ibrahim II, an emir of the Arab Aghlabid dynasty. During this period, the Aghlabid dynasty was constantly conquering Sicily, which was under the control of the Byzantine Empire, while also suppressing Berber uprisings.
The Hammamet Fortress is very sturdy and was built mainly to defend against pirate raids from places like Catalonia and Malta. The fortress was destroyed by the Spanish in the 12th century, rebuilt twice in the 14th and 15th centuries, and the upper walls were strengthened by the Ottoman Empire during the 16th and 17th centuries.
In 1605, a joint fleet from the Spanish Empire, the Kingdom of Sicily, and the Knights Hospitaller attacked the Ottoman-controlled Hammamet Fortress. A heavy rainstorm destroyed their ships and caused massive casualties for the allied forces, making this the most famous battle at the fortress.
Inside the fortress, there are quite a few pine trees, which is rare. There is also a teahouse on the city walls with a great view. In the center of the fortress stands a tomb from the late 15th century. The person buried there, Sidi Bou-Ali Mohamed, was once stationed here and was very devout in his faith.
The walls and gates of the old medina in Hammamet. Hammamet grew from a military fortress into a medina city in the 13th century, so walls were built around the residential area of the medina in the mid-13th century.
The Haouara Gate by the sea was built by the Berber Haouara tribe in the 15th century. They attacked the Hammamet Medina from the sea and saved the city from the enemy.
Sidi Bouhdid Gate leads to the gongbei (Zawiya) of the saint Sidi Bouhdid, which was built in the 18th century. Sidi Bouhdid was a Moroccan who came to Hammamet in the 12th century and spent his time guarding the safety of fishermen by the sea. He died fighting the Normans in 1178 and was buried by the city walls. Today, there is a very popular cafe here.
The streets of the old Hammamet Medina have the classic Tunisian blue-and-white town style, with bougainvillea planted along the streets and iron nails decorating the wooden doors. Hammamet Medina reached its peak in the 14th century, which was also the period when pirate raids from Pisa and Catalonia were most frequent.
After the Ottoman Empire conquered Hammamet in 1574, many Ottoman officers and soldiers were stationed in the city. These Ottomans were strongly influenced by Tunisian culture and were quickly assimilated. The descendants of Ottoman officers and Tunisian women are called Kouloughlis, and many of them have paternal roots in Izmir, Turkey. Unlike the local Tunisians who follow the Maliki school, the Kouloughlis still follow the Hanafi school.
The only date palm tree in the old city is located in the center of Errahba Square. This square was originally the site of two houses belonging to the Bennila family, which were destroyed by bombing during World War II, leaving only the date palm tree behind.
I performed the afternoon namaz at the Great Mosque of Hammamet. Tunisia follows the Maliki school, where the practice of raising the hands once (for the imam) and raising the hands once or three times (for others) coexist peacefully. After the prayer, people stood for the funeral prayer (namaz) right inside the main hall, and the body (mayyit) was kept there too. This is quite different from our Hanafi practice.
The Great Mosque of Hammamet was started in the 12th century and finished in the 13th century. The minaret (bangke ta) was added later in 1463. During this same period, Hammamet grew from a coastal fortress into a residential medina city area. The stone pillars in the Great Mosque of Hammamet are different colors because many were collected from nearby ancient Roman ruins.
In the bazaars of the old city in Tunisia, you often see religious paintings. They show scenes like the Prophet Adam, the sacrifice of Ibrahim, and the Ark of Nuh. The art style is very cute. In the old city of Hammamet, I bought a painting of the Buraq, the creature the noble Prophet rode during his Night Journey (Mi'raj). Although the Hadith does not describe the Buraq's face, it mentions it had a handsome face. Because of this, Persian and South Asian miniature paintings often show the Buraq with a human face and a horse's body. In the Mindanao region of the southern Philippines, people even carve wooden statues of the Buraq.
The bazaars and streets inside the ancient medina of Hammamet.
Looking out at the Mediterranean Sea from the ancient walled city (medina) of Hammamet. This place is just over 200 kilometers from Sicily, Italy. It has been a key spot for controlling the Mediterranean since ancient times, but today it serves as a backyard getaway for European tourists.
Some old houses inside the medina of Hammamet.
The public bathhouse across from the Great Mosque, built in the early 17th century by Abul-l-Gayth al-Qashache. In 1602, Hammamet was attacked by the Knights Hospitaller and many people were taken captive. It was Abul-l-Gayth who paid the ransom to bring them home.
The Islamic school (madrasa) behind the Great Mosque, where children were having class when we visited.
An art studio with an artist-in-residence painting inside.
Another gallery, where we saw a woman making traditional clothing during our visit.
A view overlooking the old city
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Islamic Architecture Guide: Southeastern Turkey Traditional Homes - Courtyards and Stone Houses
Reposted from the web
Summary: Southeastern Turkey Traditional Homes - Courtyards and Stone Houses is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, architecture, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Turkey, Traditional Homes, Architecture.
Continued from the previous post: Visiting traditional homes in Tunisia and Egypt.
Name: İskender Paşa Konağı.
Location: Northwest of the old city of Diyarbakır, Turkey.
Date: 1551.
Introduction: This home was built in 1551 by İskender Paşa, the twelfth governor of the Ottoman Empire in Diyarbakır, during the peak of the Ottoman Empire under Suleiman the Magnificent. Today, the mansion houses a breakfast shop, and a plane tree that is over 400 years old still stands in the courtyard.
During the 1540s and 1550s, İskender Paşa spent years on the eastern border of the Ottoman Empire fighting the Georgians and the Persian Safavid Empire, successfully stopping the Safavid Empire from moving westward.
Name: Ziya Gokalp Museum.
Location: Northwest of the old city of Diyarbakır, Turkey.
Date: Early 19th century
Introduction: The Ziya Gökalp Museum, dedicated to the father of Turkish nationalism, is housed in a black basalt home built in the early 19th century. His family bought the house in 1824, and he was born there in 1876.
In 2014, ISIS besieged the Syrian Kurdish city of Kobani, leaving many Kurds displaced. Because the Turkish government viewed the Kurdish People's Protection Units (YPG) defending Kobani as a threat, they blocked Turkish Kurds from helping. This led to large-scale protests by Turkish Kurds. During the clashes, the Ziya Gökalp Museum was damaged, and some archives and books were destroyed. The Association of Turkish Travel Agencies (TÜRSAB) later restored it.
Name: Cemil Paşa Konağı
Location: Southwest of the old city of Diyarbakır, Turkey
Date: Between 1888 and 1902.
Introduction: The Cemil Paşa Mansion (Cemil Paşa Konağı) is the best-preserved traditional house in Diyarbakır, and it now serves as the Diyarbakır City Museum.
Cemil Paşa served as the Ottoman governor of Yemen and later the governor of Siirt. He built this mansion between 1888 and 1902 and lived there until 1927. In 2012, the Diyarbakır municipal government reached an agreement with Cemil Paşa's descendants to restore the mansion, and it officially opened as a city museum in 2014.
The Cemil Paşa Mansion consists of two large courtyards. One is called the Harem, a private area for family life, and the other is called the Selamlık, a public area for receiving guests and discussing business. This layout was the standard design for mansions built by high-ranking officials during the Ottoman Empire. The north side of the Harem was the winter residence, which gets plenty of sun, while the south side was the summer residence, which stays in the shade to keep cool. The Selamlık includes stables, servant rooms, reception rooms, a coffee room, and a water pool.
The interior displays of the Cemil Paşa Mansion, now the Diyarbakır City Museum, cover all aspects of life for the Kurds in Turkey.
Name: Şehzadeler Konağı
Location: Southeast of the old city of Diyarbakır, Turkey
Date: Late 16th century
Description: The Prince's Mansion (Şehzadeler Konağı) is an Ottoman-era house built in the late 16th century. It was severely damaged during the 2015 conflict between Turkey and the Kurdistan Workers' Party. Restoration began in 2021, and it was still under construction when I visited in 2023. We met a friend (dosti) at the Kurşunlu Mosque who works here, and he warmly invited us for tea.
Once the restoration is finished, it is expected to open as a literary youth center named after the famous Diyarbakır poet Sezai Karakoç, who passed away in 2021, serving as a home for literature for young people.
Name: Hacı Halid Konağı
Location: Northwest of the old city of Diyarbakır, Turkey.
Date: Late 19th century.
Introduction: On the north side of the Great Mosque of Diyarbakir stands the Haji Khalid House (Haci Halid Evi), a traditional home over 120 years old that is now open to the public as the Ahmed Arif Literature Museum. Ahmed Arif (1927-1991) was a famous poet from Diyarbakir. His father was a Turkmen from Iraq and his mother was Kurdish. His poetry is deeply influenced by Anatolian folk literature and is widely loved by people across Turkey.
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Summary: Southeastern Turkey Traditional Homes - Courtyards and Stone Houses is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, architecture, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Turkey, Traditional Homes, Architecture.
Continued from the previous post: Visiting traditional homes in Tunisia and Egypt.
Name: İskender Paşa Konağı.
Location: Northwest of the old city of Diyarbakır, Turkey.
Date: 1551.
Introduction: This home was built in 1551 by İskender Paşa, the twelfth governor of the Ottoman Empire in Diyarbakır, during the peak of the Ottoman Empire under Suleiman the Magnificent. Today, the mansion houses a breakfast shop, and a plane tree that is over 400 years old still stands in the courtyard.
During the 1540s and 1550s, İskender Paşa spent years on the eastern border of the Ottoman Empire fighting the Georgians and the Persian Safavid Empire, successfully stopping the Safavid Empire from moving westward.
Name: Ziya Gokalp Museum.
Location: Northwest of the old city of Diyarbakır, Turkey.
Date: Early 19th century
Introduction: The Ziya Gökalp Museum, dedicated to the father of Turkish nationalism, is housed in a black basalt home built in the early 19th century. His family bought the house in 1824, and he was born there in 1876.
In 2014, ISIS besieged the Syrian Kurdish city of Kobani, leaving many Kurds displaced. Because the Turkish government viewed the Kurdish People's Protection Units (YPG) defending Kobani as a threat, they blocked Turkish Kurds from helping. This led to large-scale protests by Turkish Kurds. During the clashes, the Ziya Gökalp Museum was damaged, and some archives and books were destroyed. The Association of Turkish Travel Agencies (TÜRSAB) later restored it.
Name: Cemil Paşa Konağı
Location: Southwest of the old city of Diyarbakır, Turkey
Date: Between 1888 and 1902.
Introduction: The Cemil Paşa Mansion (Cemil Paşa Konağı) is the best-preserved traditional house in Diyarbakır, and it now serves as the Diyarbakır City Museum.
Cemil Paşa served as the Ottoman governor of Yemen and later the governor of Siirt. He built this mansion between 1888 and 1902 and lived there until 1927. In 2012, the Diyarbakır municipal government reached an agreement with Cemil Paşa's descendants to restore the mansion, and it officially opened as a city museum in 2014.
The Cemil Paşa Mansion consists of two large courtyards. One is called the Harem, a private area for family life, and the other is called the Selamlık, a public area for receiving guests and discussing business. This layout was the standard design for mansions built by high-ranking officials during the Ottoman Empire. The north side of the Harem was the winter residence, which gets plenty of sun, while the south side was the summer residence, which stays in the shade to keep cool. The Selamlık includes stables, servant rooms, reception rooms, a coffee room, and a water pool.
The interior displays of the Cemil Paşa Mansion, now the Diyarbakır City Museum, cover all aspects of life for the Kurds in Turkey.
Name: Şehzadeler Konağı
Location: Southeast of the old city of Diyarbakır, Turkey
Date: Late 16th century
Description: The Prince's Mansion (Şehzadeler Konağı) is an Ottoman-era house built in the late 16th century. It was severely damaged during the 2015 conflict between Turkey and the Kurdistan Workers' Party. Restoration began in 2021, and it was still under construction when I visited in 2023. We met a friend (dosti) at the Kurşunlu Mosque who works here, and he warmly invited us for tea.
Once the restoration is finished, it is expected to open as a literary youth center named after the famous Diyarbakır poet Sezai Karakoç, who passed away in 2021, serving as a home for literature for young people.
Name: Hacı Halid Konağı
Location: Northwest of the old city of Diyarbakır, Turkey.
Date: Late 19th century.
Introduction: On the north side of the Great Mosque of Diyarbakir stands the Haji Khalid House (Haci Halid Evi), a traditional home over 120 years old that is now open to the public as the Ahmed Arif Literature Museum. Ahmed Arif (1927-1991) was a famous poet from Diyarbakir. His father was a Turkmen from Iraq and his mother was Kurdish. His poetry is deeply influenced by Anatolian folk literature and is widely loved by people across Turkey.
Collapse Read »
Muslim Culture Guide: Beijing Temple of Heaven Park - Arab Culture and Community
Reposted from the web
Summary: Beijing Temple of Heaven Park - Arab Culture and Community is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, architecture, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Temple of Heaven, Arab Culture, Beijing.
Last Saturday at noon, we went to the Temple of Heaven Park for the Saudi Tourism Festival hosted by the Saudi Tourism Authority. It is located outside the East Gate of the Hall of Abstinence (Zhaigong) and runs from October 18 to 26.
The Temple of Heaven is always crowded on autumn weekends. When we arrived around one or two o'clock, there were lines for Arabic coffee, agarwood, trying on traditional clothing for photos, and getting names written in Arabic calligraphy. For other activities, staff members would remind people not to linger after watching for a while. However, some friends (dost) who went around three or four o'clock said they had already started limiting entry, and it stayed crowded until the evening. I expect it will be less crowded on weekdays.
Besides drinking Arabic coffee and taking photos in traditional clothes, you can listen to performances of the traditional Arabic oud, qanun, and kawala flute. There are also carpet weaving and flower crown making, so there is a wide variety of things to do.
Live demonstrations of the Arabic oud, qanun, and kawala flute. Collapse Read »
Summary: Beijing Temple of Heaven Park - Arab Culture and Community is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, architecture, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Temple of Heaven, Arab Culture, Beijing.
Last Saturday at noon, we went to the Temple of Heaven Park for the Saudi Tourism Festival hosted by the Saudi Tourism Authority. It is located outside the East Gate of the Hall of Abstinence (Zhaigong) and runs from October 18 to 26.
The Temple of Heaven is always crowded on autumn weekends. When we arrived around one or two o'clock, there were lines for Arabic coffee, agarwood, trying on traditional clothing for photos, and getting names written in Arabic calligraphy. For other activities, staff members would remind people not to linger after watching for a while. However, some friends (dost) who went around three or four o'clock said they had already started limiting entry, and it stayed crowded until the evening. I expect it will be less crowded on weekdays.
Besides drinking Arabic coffee and taking photos in traditional clothes, you can listen to performances of the traditional Arabic oud, qanun, and kawala flute. There are also carpet weaving and flower crown making, so there is a wide variety of things to do.
Live demonstrations of the Arabic oud, qanun, and kawala flute. Collapse Read »
Halal Food Guide: Beijing Malaysia Festival 2024 - Malaysian Food and Culture
Reposted from the web
Summary: Beijing Malaysia Festival 2024 - Malaysian Food and Culture is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, architecture, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Malaysian Food, Beijing Festival, Halal Food.
I went to the Rasa Malaysia festival at the West Square of Taikoo Li Sanlitun yesterday. It is still on today from 11:30 to 21:00.
We started at the Chinese stall Mari (Mari Fang) for some Ipoh white coffee. Then we went to the Malay stall Perwakilan Beijing to buy blue pea flower rice (Nasi Kerabu), folded pancake (Apam Balik), and rose syrup grass jelly drink (Bandung Cincau). Finally, we went to the Indian mamak stall Yummy Indian Mamak to buy egg flatbread (Roti Telur). You could say we tried food from all three major ethnic groups in Malaysia! The Indian flatbread had a long line because they were making it fresh on the spot, but I only waited about ten minutes to get mine.
Blue pea flower rice (Nasi Kerabu) is a traditional dish from the Kelantan and Terengganu regions on the east coast of the Malay Peninsula. It is also very popular in Malay communities in southern Thailand, where it is seen as an important cultural symbol. To make the rice, you soak it in butterfly pea flower water and add spices like lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, and pandan. Besides the rice, the dish comes with dried small fish, grilled chicken, stuffed chili with fish paste (Solok Lada), salted egg, and crackers (Krupuk).
Legend says the folded pancake (Apam Balik) was created in 1855 when Zuo Zongtang led his army into Fujian to suppress the Taiping Rebellion. He adapted a northern-style wrap into a sweet version filled with sugar and crushed peanuts. Later, Fujianese people brought it to Southeast Asia, where it spread to Malaysia, Indonesia, Brunei, and Singapore, becoming a classic street snack. In Malaysia, the folded pancake made by Chinese vendors is usually thicker, while the version made by Malay vendors is typically thinner.
Roti Telur is a type of South Indian flatbread (roti canai) brought to Malaysia in the 19th century during the British colonial era by Tamil Muslims. Roti Telur is also called egg "tossed bread" (roti telur) because the dough is constantly tossed to make it thinner and thinner. At the mamak stall (mamak dang), the classic way to eat Roti Telur is with various curries. We poured chicken curry over ours, and it smelled amazing.
There are two more shows today, one at 2:10 PM and one at 6:30 PM. The performances include lion dance with twenty-four festive drums, singing and dancing, Chinese yo-yo (diabolo), and the Kadazan bamboo dance. Suleiman even tried the bamboo dance, haha. Collapse Read »
Summary: Beijing Malaysia Festival 2024 - Malaysian Food and Culture is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, architecture, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Malaysian Food, Beijing Festival, Halal Food.
I went to the Rasa Malaysia festival at the West Square of Taikoo Li Sanlitun yesterday. It is still on today from 11:30 to 21:00.
We started at the Chinese stall Mari (Mari Fang) for some Ipoh white coffee. Then we went to the Malay stall Perwakilan Beijing to buy blue pea flower rice (Nasi Kerabu), folded pancake (Apam Balik), and rose syrup grass jelly drink (Bandung Cincau). Finally, we went to the Indian mamak stall Yummy Indian Mamak to buy egg flatbread (Roti Telur). You could say we tried food from all three major ethnic groups in Malaysia! The Indian flatbread had a long line because they were making it fresh on the spot, but I only waited about ten minutes to get mine.
Blue pea flower rice (Nasi Kerabu) is a traditional dish from the Kelantan and Terengganu regions on the east coast of the Malay Peninsula. It is also very popular in Malay communities in southern Thailand, where it is seen as an important cultural symbol. To make the rice, you soak it in butterfly pea flower water and add spices like lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, and pandan. Besides the rice, the dish comes with dried small fish, grilled chicken, stuffed chili with fish paste (Solok Lada), salted egg, and crackers (Krupuk).
Legend says the folded pancake (Apam Balik) was created in 1855 when Zuo Zongtang led his army into Fujian to suppress the Taiping Rebellion. He adapted a northern-style wrap into a sweet version filled with sugar and crushed peanuts. Later, Fujianese people brought it to Southeast Asia, where it spread to Malaysia, Indonesia, Brunei, and Singapore, becoming a classic street snack. In Malaysia, the folded pancake made by Chinese vendors is usually thicker, while the version made by Malay vendors is typically thinner.
Roti Telur is a type of South Indian flatbread (roti canai) brought to Malaysia in the 19th century during the British colonial era by Tamil Muslims. Roti Telur is also called egg "tossed bread" (roti telur) because the dough is constantly tossed to make it thinner and thinner. At the mamak stall (mamak dang), the classic way to eat Roti Telur is with various curries. We poured chicken curry over ours, and it smelled amazing.
There are two more shows today, one at 2:10 PM and one at 6:30 PM. The performances include lion dance with twenty-four festive drums, singing and dancing, Chinese yo-yo (diabolo), and the Kadazan bamboo dance. Suleiman even tried the bamboo dance, haha. Collapse Read »
Islamic History Guide: Monastir, Tunisia - Old Arab Fortress and Coastal Heritage (Part 1)
Reposted from the web
Summary: Monastir, Tunisia - Old Arab Fortress and Coastal Heritage (Part 1) is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, architecture, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Monastir, Tunisia, Arab Fortress.
Take a yellow minibus from the entrance of the Great Mosque of Sousse, and you will reach Monastir, another ancient city by the Mediterranean Sea, in 30 minutes. After arriving, we first had a French-style breakfast at a restaurant called Resto My Cocoon. Many restaurants in Tunisia offer breakfast sets, so you do not need to order dishes individually. The set we chose included coffee, juice, chocolate cake, chocolate cookies, jam, fried eggs, various sausages, butter, and bread. As a Mediterranean coastal region, various sausages, dairy products, and jams are essential parts of breakfast.
To defend against Byzantine ship attacks, the Arab Abbasid dynasty built a series of fortresses along the North African Mediterranean coast. The only one that remains today, and the most magnificent, is the Ribat of Monastir, which was ordered to be built in 796 by the Abbasid governor Harthama ibn A'yan. As the oldest and most important Arab fortress in the entire Maghreb region (western North Africa), the Ribat of Monastir attracts many visitors.
When the Ribat of Monastir was first built in 796, it only had one courtyard, and the current museum section is part of the original structure. The fortress was expanded twice, first during the Aghlabid dynasty in the 9th century and again in 966 under the Fatimid dynasty. The prayer hall on the south side dates back to this period. In 1424, the Hafsid dynasty carried out a large-scale expansion of the fortress, creating a layout with two courtyards. During the 18th and 19th centuries, the Ottoman dynasty added many buttresses and towers around the fortress to mount cannons, which gave the structure its current appearance.
The Monastir Fortress houses a museum inside the oldest section, which was built by the Abbasid dynasty in the 8th century. The exhibition hall was once the fortress prayer hall, and the mihrab still features its original marble carvings.
A collection of stone tablets with Arabic inscriptions is displayed at the museum entrance, featuring very ornate calligraphy.
Sundial
9th to 10th-century Arabic pottery
15th-century mosaic tiles.
18th-century Ottoman-era porcelain.
Stone steles from 859 and 1028.
Textiles from the Fatimid to Mamluk dynasties in Egypt.
The museum's most important collection features 9th to 11th-century wooden components from the main hall of the Great Mosque of Kairouan. Seeing this thousand-year-old North African woodwork is truly stunning.
Inscribed steles held at the Ribat of Monastir Museum.
Next to the Ribat of Monastir stands the Great Mosque of Monastir, which also has a thousand-year history. The Great Mosque of Monastir was first built in the 9th century during the rule of the Aghlabid dynasty. The Aghlabid dynasty was an Arab dynasty of the Hanafi school that was nominally a vassal of the Abbasid Caliphate. They valued trans-Saharan and Mediterranean trade and conquered Sardinia, Sicily, and the southern Italian peninsula. Architecture from the Aghlabid period has a typical fortress style, and the Great Mosque was built to look like a military castle.
During the 11th-century Zirid dynasty, the Great Mosque of Monastir was expanded, and the mihrab, which now features a typical Zirid style, was built. Unfortunately, except for a very small number of mosques open to tourists in the morning, most mosques in Tunisia are locked outside of the five daily namaz times, so we could not go inside to visit.
During the Hafsid dynasty, the Great Mosque continued to be expanded, and the current watchtower was built. The Great Mosque was finally completed in the 18th century with the addition of the current porch. The most unique feature of the Great Mosque of Monastir is that there is no dome above the mihrab, which is very rare among ancient mosques in Tunisia.
On the south side of the Monastir fortress, there is another fortress called Sidi Dhouib. Like the Great Mosque, this fortress was built in the 9th century during the Aghlabid dynasty. It is now a madrasa, and we saw children studying the Quran inside when we visited.
Strolling through the old medina of Monastir. After the Abbasid dynasty built the Monastir fortress in 796, the city was used to defend against attacks from the Byzantine fleet. After the ancient Tunisian city of Kairouan was destroyed by the Fatimid dynasty in 1057, many people moved to Monastir to settle, which helped the city grow quickly.
At the bazaar on the main street of the old town, you can see Baklouti peppers. These are a special Tunisian red chili used to make the Tunisian appetizer harissa (Harissa) hot sauce.
I visited five cities in Tunisia this time, and I think the best souvenirs to buy are the religious wall hangings made with mosaic tiles. In a souvenir shop in the Monastir medina, we bought a mosaic Hamsa hand and a Tree of Life. They had them in all sizes from big to small, and we bought the smallest ones.
The Hamsa hand (Hamsa) is a very popular amulet in North Africa and the Middle East. All three Abrahamic religions use it, and each has its own story about where it came from. We believe the five fingers of the Hamsa represent the five pillars of the faith, and it is named after Fatima, the daughter of the noble Prophet. During the Austro-Turkish War in 1788, the Ottoman Empire raised flags printed with the Hamsa. The Grand Vizier led an army of 80,000 soldiers to fight against Austria.
The Tree of Eternity (Sajara al-Huld) is a tree in Paradise. The Quran mentions that the devil tempted Adam and Hawa in Paradise, tricking them into eating the fruit of the Tree of Eternity. This caused their private parts to be exposed, so they covered their bodies with leaves.
The city walls of the old medina in Monastir.
The beach next to the Monastir fortress. The sea and sky are the same color, blue and clear to the bottom. There are few tourists here, making it a perfect vacation spot.
The mausoleum of Bourguiba, the founding father of Tunisia, in Monastir. Construction of the mausoleum began in 1963, it was expanded in 1978, and Bourguiba was buried here after his death in 2000. Bourguiba was a native of Monastir. When France recognized Tunisia's independence in 1956, he served as the Prime Minister of the Kingdom of Tunisia. The following year, he abolished the monarchy and became the founding president, earning him the title of the founder of the Republic of Tunisia. After thirty years in power, Bourguiba was removed from office in 1987. He spent his later years in his hometown of Monastir, where he eventually passed away.
On the south side of the Bourguiba Mausoleum stands the Bourguiba Hanafi Mosque (Bourguiba Hanafi Masjid), built in 1963. Unfortunately, this mosque is locked and not open for the five daily namaz.
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Summary: Monastir, Tunisia - Old Arab Fortress and Coastal Heritage (Part 1) is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, architecture, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Monastir, Tunisia, Arab Fortress.
Take a yellow minibus from the entrance of the Great Mosque of Sousse, and you will reach Monastir, another ancient city by the Mediterranean Sea, in 30 minutes. After arriving, we first had a French-style breakfast at a restaurant called Resto My Cocoon. Many restaurants in Tunisia offer breakfast sets, so you do not need to order dishes individually. The set we chose included coffee, juice, chocolate cake, chocolate cookies, jam, fried eggs, various sausages, butter, and bread. As a Mediterranean coastal region, various sausages, dairy products, and jams are essential parts of breakfast.
To defend against Byzantine ship attacks, the Arab Abbasid dynasty built a series of fortresses along the North African Mediterranean coast. The only one that remains today, and the most magnificent, is the Ribat of Monastir, which was ordered to be built in 796 by the Abbasid governor Harthama ibn A'yan. As the oldest and most important Arab fortress in the entire Maghreb region (western North Africa), the Ribat of Monastir attracts many visitors.
When the Ribat of Monastir was first built in 796, it only had one courtyard, and the current museum section is part of the original structure. The fortress was expanded twice, first during the Aghlabid dynasty in the 9th century and again in 966 under the Fatimid dynasty. The prayer hall on the south side dates back to this period. In 1424, the Hafsid dynasty carried out a large-scale expansion of the fortress, creating a layout with two courtyards. During the 18th and 19th centuries, the Ottoman dynasty added many buttresses and towers around the fortress to mount cannons, which gave the structure its current appearance.
The Monastir Fortress houses a museum inside the oldest section, which was built by the Abbasid dynasty in the 8th century. The exhibition hall was once the fortress prayer hall, and the mihrab still features its original marble carvings.
A collection of stone tablets with Arabic inscriptions is displayed at the museum entrance, featuring very ornate calligraphy.
Sundial
9th to 10th-century Arabic pottery
15th-century mosaic tiles.
18th-century Ottoman-era porcelain.
Stone steles from 859 and 1028.
Textiles from the Fatimid to Mamluk dynasties in Egypt.
The museum's most important collection features 9th to 11th-century wooden components from the main hall of the Great Mosque of Kairouan. Seeing this thousand-year-old North African woodwork is truly stunning.
Inscribed steles held at the Ribat of Monastir Museum.
Next to the Ribat of Monastir stands the Great Mosque of Monastir, which also has a thousand-year history. The Great Mosque of Monastir was first built in the 9th century during the rule of the Aghlabid dynasty. The Aghlabid dynasty was an Arab dynasty of the Hanafi school that was nominally a vassal of the Abbasid Caliphate. They valued trans-Saharan and Mediterranean trade and conquered Sardinia, Sicily, and the southern Italian peninsula. Architecture from the Aghlabid period has a typical fortress style, and the Great Mosque was built to look like a military castle.
During the 11th-century Zirid dynasty, the Great Mosque of Monastir was expanded, and the mihrab, which now features a typical Zirid style, was built. Unfortunately, except for a very small number of mosques open to tourists in the morning, most mosques in Tunisia are locked outside of the five daily namaz times, so we could not go inside to visit.
During the Hafsid dynasty, the Great Mosque continued to be expanded, and the current watchtower was built. The Great Mosque was finally completed in the 18th century with the addition of the current porch. The most unique feature of the Great Mosque of Monastir is that there is no dome above the mihrab, which is very rare among ancient mosques in Tunisia.
On the south side of the Monastir fortress, there is another fortress called Sidi Dhouib. Like the Great Mosque, this fortress was built in the 9th century during the Aghlabid dynasty. It is now a madrasa, and we saw children studying the Quran inside when we visited.
Strolling through the old medina of Monastir. After the Abbasid dynasty built the Monastir fortress in 796, the city was used to defend against attacks from the Byzantine fleet. After the ancient Tunisian city of Kairouan was destroyed by the Fatimid dynasty in 1057, many people moved to Monastir to settle, which helped the city grow quickly.
At the bazaar on the main street of the old town, you can see Baklouti peppers. These are a special Tunisian red chili used to make the Tunisian appetizer harissa (Harissa) hot sauce.
I visited five cities in Tunisia this time, and I think the best souvenirs to buy are the religious wall hangings made with mosaic tiles. In a souvenir shop in the Monastir medina, we bought a mosaic Hamsa hand and a Tree of Life. They had them in all sizes from big to small, and we bought the smallest ones.
The Hamsa hand (Hamsa) is a very popular amulet in North Africa and the Middle East. All three Abrahamic religions use it, and each has its own story about where it came from. We believe the five fingers of the Hamsa represent the five pillars of the faith, and it is named after Fatima, the daughter of the noble Prophet. During the Austro-Turkish War in 1788, the Ottoman Empire raised flags printed with the Hamsa. The Grand Vizier led an army of 80,000 soldiers to fight against Austria.
The Tree of Eternity (Sajara al-Huld) is a tree in Paradise. The Quran mentions that the devil tempted Adam and Hawa in Paradise, tricking them into eating the fruit of the Tree of Eternity. This caused their private parts to be exposed, so they covered their bodies with leaves.
The city walls of the old medina in Monastir.
The beach next to the Monastir fortress. The sea and sky are the same color, blue and clear to the bottom. There are few tourists here, making it a perfect vacation spot.
The mausoleum of Bourguiba, the founding father of Tunisia, in Monastir. Construction of the mausoleum began in 1963, it was expanded in 1978, and Bourguiba was buried here after his death in 2000. Bourguiba was a native of Monastir. When France recognized Tunisia's independence in 1956, he served as the Prime Minister of the Kingdom of Tunisia. The following year, he abolished the monarchy and became the founding president, earning him the title of the founder of the Republic of Tunisia. After thirty years in power, Bourguiba was removed from office in 1987. He spent his later years in his hometown of Monastir, where he eventually passed away.
On the south side of the Bourguiba Mausoleum stands the Bourguiba Hanafi Mosque (Bourguiba Hanafi Masjid), built in 1963. Unfortunately, this mosque is locked and not open for the five daily namaz.
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Islamic History Guide: Monastir, Tunisia - Old Arab Fortress and Coastal Heritage (Part 2)
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Summary: Monastir, Tunisia - Old Arab Fortress and Coastal Heritage (Part 2) is presented as a photo-based continuation of the original Chinese travel post, with the images kept in their original order. The entry is organized for readers looking for Monastir, Tunisia, Arab Fortress without adding facts beyond the source.
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Summary: Monastir, Tunisia - Old Arab Fortress and Coastal Heritage (Part 2) is presented as a photo-based continuation of the original Chinese travel post, with the images kept in their original order. The entry is organized for readers looking for Monastir, Tunisia, Arab Fortress without adding facts beyond the source.
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Halal Food Guide: Beijing International Neighbors Festival - Iranian, Azerbaijani and Maldivian Food
Reposted from the web
Summary: Beijing International Neighbors Festival - Iranian, Azerbaijani and Maldivian Food is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, architecture, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Beijing Food, Cultural Festival, Halal Food.
Yesterday, I attended the International Neighborhood Festival at the Jianwai Diplomatic Apartment. This festival has been held for six years. You can eat snacks from different countries and experience a rich variety of cultures.
At the Iran booth, we ate chocolate cake and butter raisin cookies, and drank saffron tea. Sholezard is a special Iranian saffron pudding. It is a rice pudding made with saffron, sugar, rose water, cinnamon, and cardamom. It is the most common dessert Iranians eat to break their fast during Ramadan every year.
At the Azerbaijan booth, we tasted stuffed grape leaves (dolma) and the signature grilled meat skewers (lula kebab). There were also children wearing traditional Azerbaijani clothing.
In Turkish, dolma means "stuffed." It refers to putting meat filling inside various vegetables. Dolma was a staple dish for farmers during the Ottoman Empire. They usually stuffed cabbage in the winter and grape leaves in the summer. Today, dolma is widely found across Southeast Europe, West Asia, and North Africa, where the Ottoman Empire once ruled. Every place has its own unique version.
Lula kebab is made by grinding lamb and onions together into a mince, seasoning it with salt and pepper, and then grilling the meat on iron skewers.
I also saw a Maldives booth, and the Maldives embassy is located right inside the apartment building. The booth had all kinds of Maldivian snacks. We bought a spicy Maldivian flatbread (Kulhi Roshi) that contained ginger, garlic, onion, curry leaves (jiulixiang), shredded coconut, red chili powder, black pepper, cumin powder, tuna powder, fish paste (Rihaakuru), and lime juice. It had a very strong flavor.
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Summary: Beijing International Neighbors Festival - Iranian, Azerbaijani and Maldivian Food is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, architecture, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Beijing Food, Cultural Festival, Halal Food.
Yesterday, I attended the International Neighborhood Festival at the Jianwai Diplomatic Apartment. This festival has been held for six years. You can eat snacks from different countries and experience a rich variety of cultures.
At the Iran booth, we ate chocolate cake and butter raisin cookies, and drank saffron tea. Sholezard is a special Iranian saffron pudding. It is a rice pudding made with saffron, sugar, rose water, cinnamon, and cardamom. It is the most common dessert Iranians eat to break their fast during Ramadan every year.
At the Azerbaijan booth, we tasted stuffed grape leaves (dolma) and the signature grilled meat skewers (lula kebab). There were also children wearing traditional Azerbaijani clothing.
In Turkish, dolma means "stuffed." It refers to putting meat filling inside various vegetables. Dolma was a staple dish for farmers during the Ottoman Empire. They usually stuffed cabbage in the winter and grape leaves in the summer. Today, dolma is widely found across Southeast Europe, West Asia, and North Africa, where the Ottoman Empire once ruled. Every place has its own unique version.
Lula kebab is made by grinding lamb and onions together into a mince, seasoning it with salt and pepper, and then grilling the meat on iron skewers.
I also saw a Maldives booth, and the Maldives embassy is located right inside the apartment building. The booth had all kinds of Maldivian snacks. We bought a spicy Maldivian flatbread (Kulhi Roshi) that contained ginger, garlic, onion, curry leaves (jiulixiang), shredded coconut, red chili powder, black pepper, cumin powder, tuna powder, fish paste (Rihaakuru), and lime juice. It had a very strong flavor.
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Halal Travel Guide: Malacca Old City - Food, Hotels and Muslim Heritage
Reposted from the web
Summary: Malacca Old City - Food, Hotels and Muslim Heritage is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, architecture, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Malacca, Halal Food, Malaysia Travel.
I took a red-eye AirAsia flight to Kuala Lumpur in the early hours of September 15. The flight was delayed by an hour, so I arrived at Kuala Lumpur airport after 9 a.m. Even though I used the self-service immigration gate and jogged to the bus station, I still missed the 10 a.m. bus. I ended up taking the 10:45 a.m. bus and spent three hours in traffic before reaching Melaka Sentral station. Luckily, the bus seats reclined enough to lie back, so I just took a nap and arrived.
In Malaysia, you have to exchange online bus tickets for physical ones at the station, unlike train tickets where you can just scan a code. The ticket counters at the Kuala Lumpur airport bus station get very crowded on weekends and holidays, so make sure to go early to exchange your tickets. By comparison, I think traveling by train in Malaysia is much more convenient. You can scan a code to enter the station, and the schedules are reliable and stress-free.
Staying in a Nanyang-style arcade building
We spent our first night at the Aava Malacca Hotel on Kampung Hulu Road. This area is inside the buffer zone of the Melaka UNESCO World Heritage site. It is right next to two historic mosques, Kampung Hulu Mosque and Kampung Kling Mosque, so the location is excellent. Kampung Hulu Street often has traffic jams. If you want to take a taxi, walk 300 meters north to the main road outside the World Heritage buffer zone.
The Aava Hotel is made from three traditional shophouses (qilou) built before World War II. The exterior is very well preserved, and the interior is simple and elegant. The Nyonya elements are used sparingly but look great. I personally think it offers good value for money. The hotel offers free bicycle rentals for two hours, but one bike has stiff handlebars, so be careful when riding it.
The halal breakfast at Aava Hotel includes Western-style omelets, baked beans, and coconut milk rice (nasi lemak) wrapped in banana leaves. Both Malay and Chinese guests ate breakfast with us. It is very comfortable to drink coffee leisurely inside the shophouse.
Staying at a Straits mansion
On the second day, we stayed at the famous The Majestic Malacca hotel. Staying here really showed me that you get what you pay for. The environment is amazing, the service is very thoughtful, and it feels just like home.
The lobby of the Majestic Hotel is inside a nearly 100-year-old mansion from the Straits Settlements era, with the original tile floors and teak wood features still preserved today. The Majestic Hotel was built in 1929 under the direction of wealthy Chinese businessman Leong Long Man, but he sadly passed away two years later, and his son inherited the mansion. His son kept spending the family fortune until he sold the property to another Chinese businessman, Lim Heng Fang, in 1955. Lim Heng Fang turned the mansion into a hotel. It hosted many British plantation owners in the 1950s and 1960s, and it even welcomed the first Prime Minister, Tunku Abdul Rahman, when Malaysia declared independence in 1957.
The Majestic Hotel closed in 2000 due to poor management. In 2006, the famous Malaysian YTL Hotels group bought and restored it, and it reopened for business in 2008.
After we finished checking in, a Nyonya lady from the front desk guided us to our room and offered us some welcome tea.
The second floor of the Straits Mansion at the Majestic Hotel serves a halal breakfast. You can choose from Western, Malay, or Indian styles. There is an unlimited supply of croissants, which are served to you by Indian staff so you do not have to get them yourself.
We ordered a serving of Indian flatbread (roti canai) with curry and a bowl of spicy noodle soup (laksa).
Roti canai is a classic Nanyang Indian Muslim breakfast. As early as the 17th century, Indian Muslims brought the practice of eating flatbread with curry to the Aceh Sultanate in northern Sumatra. After the 19th century, it spread to Nanyang countries like Indonesia, Malaysia, and Brunei. Various ethnic groups, including the Malays, Acehnese, and Minangkabau people, all love making this dish.
Curry laksa (laksa lemak) is a type of curry laksa that uses rice noodles in a thick coconut curry soup, topped with chicken and seafood. Curry laksa is best represented by Nyonya laksa, which has plenty of coconut milk and is less sour and spicy compared to the other type, Asam laksa.
Hui Muslim snacks
Chan Mari Chan is a sub-brand of the large Malaysian Hui Muslim Chinese restaurant chain Mohd Chan, focusing on affordable home-style snacks. The founder of Mohd Chan, Dato HJ Mohd Chan, was born in Gombak District, Selangor. In 2007, influenced by his Malay friends, he converted to Islam and started his restaurant that same year. Since then, he has been combining Nanyang Chinese cuisine with Malay flavors, and it has now become the most famous and largest Hui Muslim restaurant chain in Malaysia.
This January, we ate at Mohd Chan restaurant in Seremban, Malaysia. You order from a menu there, and they serve a variety of high-end Nanyang Chinese banquet dishes. Chan Mari Chan focuses on fast food and snacks. You go straight to the counter to pick up your food, and the chicken rice, small side dishes, and steamed dumplings (shaomai) are the most popular items. We grabbed roasted chicken rice, three small side dishes, two types of steamed dumplings (shaomai), and drank grass jelly coffee and cocoa coffee. Their food is quite delicious. I especially loved the fragrance and texture of the chicken rice. Eating there wiped away the fatigue of our journey. We instantly felt embraced by Nanyang culture and left feeling very satisfied.
The restaurant environment is also very nice, and many Malaysian Muslim friends (dosti) come here to eat with their families. They have a prayer room in the shop, which sets a great example for us Hui Muslims.
Malaysian Food City
Right next to the E-Red Hotel on Kampung Hulu Street, there is a large Malay food court called Makan Avenue. It has a huge variety of Malay snacks. Many Malay people come here to eat at night, and the tables along the Malacca River are always full. Be careful about ordering drinks here on weekends or holidays. Because they have to serve hundreds of seats, I actually waited an hour just to get my drink. The other food stalls serve their dishes relatively quickly.
The most famous spot in the food court is Cendol Kampung Hulu. Cendol originated on the island of Java and was a classic drink at Javanese weddings before it spread across Southeast Asia. It is made with shaved ice, green rice flour jelly noodles, coconut milk, and palm sugar. You can also add things like red beans or grass jelly. We ordered the durian cendol, which is perfect for the hot and humid weather in Southeast Asia.
We also ordered beef meatball soup (bakso biasa). The name bakso comes from the Southern Min dialect for 'meat crisp.' It is a classic Malaysian street food made from beef, fish paste, and a little tapioca flour, giving it a very firm texture. The finished meatballs are usually served in beef broth with tofu, glass noodles, and various side dishes.
We also ordered fried tilapia (talapia) and catfish (keli). Although they looked charred on the outside, the meat inside was very tender, had no fishy smell, and tasted delicious.
Malaysian night market
Across from Dataran Pahlawan, we found a huge Malaysian night market that seems to only open on weekends, with an endless variety of snacks. We were too full to eat a meal, so we just bought some guava dipped in sour plum powder and a giant avocado juice. Tropical fruits are cheap all over Malaysia. As long as you don't buy durian in tourist areas, you can basically eat as much fruit as you want.
The vibe of the Malacca night market, featuring hand-pounded chili paste (sambal) and lamb soup (yangtang).
Malay cake shop
In Kampung Hulu, there is a lovely cake shop called Malaiqa By Gula Cakery that is especially popular with young people. The shop is inside a shophouse built in 1941. The decor is fresh and simple, a great example of revitalizing the old city.
We ordered the strawberry milk pudding and longan lemon tea, and both tasted great. These fresh little shops in Malaysia are really wonderful, though we usually stick to traditional food and don't visit places like this very often.
Malay village farmhouse cooking
On the road heading east from Malacca to Muar, the whole way is filled with Malay village (kampung) countryside scenery. At noon, we passed through the seaside village of Serkam Pantai, prayed namaz at a 19th-century mosque, and then had an authentic Malay village-style meal in the village.
We ordered shrimp noodle soup (Mee Bandung Udang), black shrimp paste fruit salad (Rojak Petis), and Malay village-style fried rice (Nasi Goreng Kampung), drank iced Milo (Milo Ais Kepal), and had red bean shaved ice (Air Batu Campur).
Shrimp noodle soup (Mee Bandung Udang) is a Malay dish that started in Muar, Malaysia. Bandung means mixed, and Udang means shrimp. It is made by boiling yellow noodles with eggs, shrimp, leafy greens, and beef bits. The thick soup is simmered with shrimp paste, onions, spices, and chili, giving it a very fresh taste.
Fruit salad (Rojak) is said to have started on the island of Java. It was originally a mix of fruits and vegetables with spicy palm sugar syrup, but it later spread across Indonesia, Malaysia, and Singapore, developing many different styles. Black shrimp paste fruit salad (Rojak Petis) started in Surabaya, East Java. It contains raw mango, cucumber, water spinach, and bean sprouts. The sauce is made from black shrimp paste (Petis), fried shallots, palm sugar, and salt, and it is topped with crushed peanuts. The fruit salad tastes quite sweet, so people who prefer milder flavors might find it hard to get used to.
Malay village-style fried rice (Nasi Goreng Kampung) is a classic Malay village dish. It includes diced beef, water spinach, shrimp, dried anchovies, and scrambled eggs. It is stir-fried with sweet soy sauce and shrimp paste, making the flavor very rich. It is one of my favorite Malay dishes.
Air Batu Campur red bean ice, also called ABC ice, is a classic dessert in Southeast Asia after a meal. It is mostly shaved ice with red beans and condensed milk on top, and the one we bought had a scoop of ice cream on it.
Nyonya cuisine
As the birthplace of Nyonya culture, you must eat Nyonya cuisine once when you come to Malacca. There are many halal Nyonya restaurants on the east side of the old town of Malacca on Independence Street (Jln Merdeka), with Atlantic and Cottage Spices being the most famous. Both places had lines when we went, so we both took numbers. Later, a table opened up at Cottage Spices first, so we ate there.
We ordered stir-fried water spinach with shrimp paste (Kangkung Belacan), Teochew steamed fish, steamed Nyonya fish cake (Otak-otak), and drank lime plum juice (Lime Plum), which was a perfect balance of meat and vegetables. Teochew steamed fish is red snapper served with pickled vegetables, pickled plums, and tomatoes. The sour taste is very appetizing. Otak-otak is a fish cake steamed with coconut milk, chili paste, lemongrass, and galangal. It smells and tastes delicious.
Indian Nasi Kandar
To truly experience the food of Malaysia's three main ethnic groups, you must try Indian Muslim Nasi Kandar after eating Nyonya, Chinese-Muslim, and Malay kampung dishes.
We went to Seri Sahabat next to the Majestic Hotel in Malacca. They are open 24 hours a day, and at night, it gets very crowded with all the food stalls open. It is quieter during the day, when they mainly sell Nasi Kandar. They have meat, fish, and vegetables, making for a very balanced meal.
South Indian Tamil Muslims are called Mamak in Malaysia. This name comes from the Tamil word for uncle (maa-ma), and they are famous for their Mamak stall (Gerai Mamak) and Mamak restaurant (Restoran Mamak) food culture.
Nasi Kandar is the signature dish at Tamil Mamak restaurants. It is rice served with various curries of beef, lamb, chicken, fish, and shrimp, along with side dishes. When Tamil Muslims first arrived in Malaysia in the 19th century, most carried food on shoulder poles to sell along the streets, which is why it became known as shoulder-pole rice (nasi kandar). By the 20th century, Tamil Muslims started opening restaurants and stalls, but the name shoulder-pole rice (nasi kandar) is still used today.
Hainan coffee
On the drive from Malacca back to Kuala Lumpur Airport, the most popular restaurant in Terminal 2 is the Hainan coffee chain Oriental Kopi, where people are almost always waiting in line.
They have a huge variety of dishes and are currently one of the most famous halal Hainan-style cafes. Hainanese people began immigrating to Malaysia in the 19th century. Many early immigrants worked as cooks and waiters in British hotels and restaurants, while some worked as servants for British officers. Influenced by their British employers, the Hainanese learned to cook Western food and blended it with Hainanese culinary elements to create the unique Hainanese coffee shop (Hailam Kopitiam) culture.
We ordered flaky egg tarts, pineapple buns with butter (bo luo bao), Hainanese chicken rice, classic rice vermicelli (mee siam), curry fish balls, coffee, soy milk with grass jelly, and longan sea coconut dessert. Coffee, flaky egg tarts (danta), and pineapple buns with cold butter (binghuo boluobao) are known as the "Huayang Three Treasures" and make a classic Nanyang-style breakfast. Their flaky egg tarts are truly well-made, with a very tender egg custard and a rich aroma. Their sweet dessert soups (tangshui) are also delicious. We rarely drink these in the north, so it felt like a special Nanyang experience.
However, their Hainanese chicken rice was not great. The rice quality seemed poor, with a gritty texture that did not taste as good as the rice at other places.
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Summary: Malacca Old City - Food, Hotels and Muslim Heritage is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, architecture, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Malacca, Halal Food, Malaysia Travel.
I took a red-eye AirAsia flight to Kuala Lumpur in the early hours of September 15. The flight was delayed by an hour, so I arrived at Kuala Lumpur airport after 9 a.m. Even though I used the self-service immigration gate and jogged to the bus station, I still missed the 10 a.m. bus. I ended up taking the 10:45 a.m. bus and spent three hours in traffic before reaching Melaka Sentral station. Luckily, the bus seats reclined enough to lie back, so I just took a nap and arrived.
In Malaysia, you have to exchange online bus tickets for physical ones at the station, unlike train tickets where you can just scan a code. The ticket counters at the Kuala Lumpur airport bus station get very crowded on weekends and holidays, so make sure to go early to exchange your tickets. By comparison, I think traveling by train in Malaysia is much more convenient. You can scan a code to enter the station, and the schedules are reliable and stress-free.
Staying in a Nanyang-style arcade building
We spent our first night at the Aava Malacca Hotel on Kampung Hulu Road. This area is inside the buffer zone of the Melaka UNESCO World Heritage site. It is right next to two historic mosques, Kampung Hulu Mosque and Kampung Kling Mosque, so the location is excellent. Kampung Hulu Street often has traffic jams. If you want to take a taxi, walk 300 meters north to the main road outside the World Heritage buffer zone.
The Aava Hotel is made from three traditional shophouses (qilou) built before World War II. The exterior is very well preserved, and the interior is simple and elegant. The Nyonya elements are used sparingly but look great. I personally think it offers good value for money. The hotel offers free bicycle rentals for two hours, but one bike has stiff handlebars, so be careful when riding it.
The halal breakfast at Aava Hotel includes Western-style omelets, baked beans, and coconut milk rice (nasi lemak) wrapped in banana leaves. Both Malay and Chinese guests ate breakfast with us. It is very comfortable to drink coffee leisurely inside the shophouse.
Staying at a Straits mansion
On the second day, we stayed at the famous The Majestic Malacca hotel. Staying here really showed me that you get what you pay for. The environment is amazing, the service is very thoughtful, and it feels just like home.
The lobby of the Majestic Hotel is inside a nearly 100-year-old mansion from the Straits Settlements era, with the original tile floors and teak wood features still preserved today. The Majestic Hotel was built in 1929 under the direction of wealthy Chinese businessman Leong Long Man, but he sadly passed away two years later, and his son inherited the mansion. His son kept spending the family fortune until he sold the property to another Chinese businessman, Lim Heng Fang, in 1955. Lim Heng Fang turned the mansion into a hotel. It hosted many British plantation owners in the 1950s and 1960s, and it even welcomed the first Prime Minister, Tunku Abdul Rahman, when Malaysia declared independence in 1957.
The Majestic Hotel closed in 2000 due to poor management. In 2006, the famous Malaysian YTL Hotels group bought and restored it, and it reopened for business in 2008.
After we finished checking in, a Nyonya lady from the front desk guided us to our room and offered us some welcome tea.
The second floor of the Straits Mansion at the Majestic Hotel serves a halal breakfast. You can choose from Western, Malay, or Indian styles. There is an unlimited supply of croissants, which are served to you by Indian staff so you do not have to get them yourself.
We ordered a serving of Indian flatbread (roti canai) with curry and a bowl of spicy noodle soup (laksa).
Roti canai is a classic Nanyang Indian Muslim breakfast. As early as the 17th century, Indian Muslims brought the practice of eating flatbread with curry to the Aceh Sultanate in northern Sumatra. After the 19th century, it spread to Nanyang countries like Indonesia, Malaysia, and Brunei. Various ethnic groups, including the Malays, Acehnese, and Minangkabau people, all love making this dish.
Curry laksa (laksa lemak) is a type of curry laksa that uses rice noodles in a thick coconut curry soup, topped with chicken and seafood. Curry laksa is best represented by Nyonya laksa, which has plenty of coconut milk and is less sour and spicy compared to the other type, Asam laksa.
Hui Muslim snacks
Chan Mari Chan is a sub-brand of the large Malaysian Hui Muslim Chinese restaurant chain Mohd Chan, focusing on affordable home-style snacks. The founder of Mohd Chan, Dato HJ Mohd Chan, was born in Gombak District, Selangor. In 2007, influenced by his Malay friends, he converted to Islam and started his restaurant that same year. Since then, he has been combining Nanyang Chinese cuisine with Malay flavors, and it has now become the most famous and largest Hui Muslim restaurant chain in Malaysia.
This January, we ate at Mohd Chan restaurant in Seremban, Malaysia. You order from a menu there, and they serve a variety of high-end Nanyang Chinese banquet dishes. Chan Mari Chan focuses on fast food and snacks. You go straight to the counter to pick up your food, and the chicken rice, small side dishes, and steamed dumplings (shaomai) are the most popular items. We grabbed roasted chicken rice, three small side dishes, two types of steamed dumplings (shaomai), and drank grass jelly coffee and cocoa coffee. Their food is quite delicious. I especially loved the fragrance and texture of the chicken rice. Eating there wiped away the fatigue of our journey. We instantly felt embraced by Nanyang culture and left feeling very satisfied.
The restaurant environment is also very nice, and many Malaysian Muslim friends (dosti) come here to eat with their families. They have a prayer room in the shop, which sets a great example for us Hui Muslims.
Malaysian Food City
Right next to the E-Red Hotel on Kampung Hulu Street, there is a large Malay food court called Makan Avenue. It has a huge variety of Malay snacks. Many Malay people come here to eat at night, and the tables along the Malacca River are always full. Be careful about ordering drinks here on weekends or holidays. Because they have to serve hundreds of seats, I actually waited an hour just to get my drink. The other food stalls serve their dishes relatively quickly.
The most famous spot in the food court is Cendol Kampung Hulu. Cendol originated on the island of Java and was a classic drink at Javanese weddings before it spread across Southeast Asia. It is made with shaved ice, green rice flour jelly noodles, coconut milk, and palm sugar. You can also add things like red beans or grass jelly. We ordered the durian cendol, which is perfect for the hot and humid weather in Southeast Asia.
We also ordered beef meatball soup (bakso biasa). The name bakso comes from the Southern Min dialect for 'meat crisp.' It is a classic Malaysian street food made from beef, fish paste, and a little tapioca flour, giving it a very firm texture. The finished meatballs are usually served in beef broth with tofu, glass noodles, and various side dishes.
We also ordered fried tilapia (talapia) and catfish (keli). Although they looked charred on the outside, the meat inside was very tender, had no fishy smell, and tasted delicious.
Malaysian night market
Across from Dataran Pahlawan, we found a huge Malaysian night market that seems to only open on weekends, with an endless variety of snacks. We were too full to eat a meal, so we just bought some guava dipped in sour plum powder and a giant avocado juice. Tropical fruits are cheap all over Malaysia. As long as you don't buy durian in tourist areas, you can basically eat as much fruit as you want.
The vibe of the Malacca night market, featuring hand-pounded chili paste (sambal) and lamb soup (yangtang).
Malay cake shop
In Kampung Hulu, there is a lovely cake shop called Malaiqa By Gula Cakery that is especially popular with young people. The shop is inside a shophouse built in 1941. The decor is fresh and simple, a great example of revitalizing the old city.
We ordered the strawberry milk pudding and longan lemon tea, and both tasted great. These fresh little shops in Malaysia are really wonderful, though we usually stick to traditional food and don't visit places like this very often.
Malay village farmhouse cooking
On the road heading east from Malacca to Muar, the whole way is filled with Malay village (kampung) countryside scenery. At noon, we passed through the seaside village of Serkam Pantai, prayed namaz at a 19th-century mosque, and then had an authentic Malay village-style meal in the village.
We ordered shrimp noodle soup (Mee Bandung Udang), black shrimp paste fruit salad (Rojak Petis), and Malay village-style fried rice (Nasi Goreng Kampung), drank iced Milo (Milo Ais Kepal), and had red bean shaved ice (Air Batu Campur).
Shrimp noodle soup (Mee Bandung Udang) is a Malay dish that started in Muar, Malaysia. Bandung means mixed, and Udang means shrimp. It is made by boiling yellow noodles with eggs, shrimp, leafy greens, and beef bits. The thick soup is simmered with shrimp paste, onions, spices, and chili, giving it a very fresh taste.
Fruit salad (Rojak) is said to have started on the island of Java. It was originally a mix of fruits and vegetables with spicy palm sugar syrup, but it later spread across Indonesia, Malaysia, and Singapore, developing many different styles. Black shrimp paste fruit salad (Rojak Petis) started in Surabaya, East Java. It contains raw mango, cucumber, water spinach, and bean sprouts. The sauce is made from black shrimp paste (Petis), fried shallots, palm sugar, and salt, and it is topped with crushed peanuts. The fruit salad tastes quite sweet, so people who prefer milder flavors might find it hard to get used to.
Malay village-style fried rice (Nasi Goreng Kampung) is a classic Malay village dish. It includes diced beef, water spinach, shrimp, dried anchovies, and scrambled eggs. It is stir-fried with sweet soy sauce and shrimp paste, making the flavor very rich. It is one of my favorite Malay dishes.
Air Batu Campur red bean ice, also called ABC ice, is a classic dessert in Southeast Asia after a meal. It is mostly shaved ice with red beans and condensed milk on top, and the one we bought had a scoop of ice cream on it.
Nyonya cuisine
As the birthplace of Nyonya culture, you must eat Nyonya cuisine once when you come to Malacca. There are many halal Nyonya restaurants on the east side of the old town of Malacca on Independence Street (Jln Merdeka), with Atlantic and Cottage Spices being the most famous. Both places had lines when we went, so we both took numbers. Later, a table opened up at Cottage Spices first, so we ate there.
We ordered stir-fried water spinach with shrimp paste (Kangkung Belacan), Teochew steamed fish, steamed Nyonya fish cake (Otak-otak), and drank lime plum juice (Lime Plum), which was a perfect balance of meat and vegetables. Teochew steamed fish is red snapper served with pickled vegetables, pickled plums, and tomatoes. The sour taste is very appetizing. Otak-otak is a fish cake steamed with coconut milk, chili paste, lemongrass, and galangal. It smells and tastes delicious.
Indian Nasi Kandar
To truly experience the food of Malaysia's three main ethnic groups, you must try Indian Muslim Nasi Kandar after eating Nyonya, Chinese-Muslim, and Malay kampung dishes.
We went to Seri Sahabat next to the Majestic Hotel in Malacca. They are open 24 hours a day, and at night, it gets very crowded with all the food stalls open. It is quieter during the day, when they mainly sell Nasi Kandar. They have meat, fish, and vegetables, making for a very balanced meal.
South Indian Tamil Muslims are called Mamak in Malaysia. This name comes from the Tamil word for uncle (maa-ma), and they are famous for their Mamak stall (Gerai Mamak) and Mamak restaurant (Restoran Mamak) food culture.
Nasi Kandar is the signature dish at Tamil Mamak restaurants. It is rice served with various curries of beef, lamb, chicken, fish, and shrimp, along with side dishes. When Tamil Muslims first arrived in Malaysia in the 19th century, most carried food on shoulder poles to sell along the streets, which is why it became known as shoulder-pole rice (nasi kandar). By the 20th century, Tamil Muslims started opening restaurants and stalls, but the name shoulder-pole rice (nasi kandar) is still used today.
Hainan coffee
On the drive from Malacca back to Kuala Lumpur Airport, the most popular restaurant in Terminal 2 is the Hainan coffee chain Oriental Kopi, where people are almost always waiting in line.
They have a huge variety of dishes and are currently one of the most famous halal Hainan-style cafes. Hainanese people began immigrating to Malaysia in the 19th century. Many early immigrants worked as cooks and waiters in British hotels and restaurants, while some worked as servants for British officers. Influenced by their British employers, the Hainanese learned to cook Western food and blended it with Hainanese culinary elements to create the unique Hainanese coffee shop (Hailam Kopitiam) culture.
We ordered flaky egg tarts, pineapple buns with butter (bo luo bao), Hainanese chicken rice, classic rice vermicelli (mee siam), curry fish balls, coffee, soy milk with grass jelly, and longan sea coconut dessert. Coffee, flaky egg tarts (danta), and pineapple buns with cold butter (binghuo boluobao) are known as the "Huayang Three Treasures" and make a classic Nanyang-style breakfast. Their flaky egg tarts are truly well-made, with a very tender egg custard and a rich aroma. Their sweet dessert soups (tangshui) are also delicious. We rarely drink these in the north, so it felt like a special Nanyang experience.
However, their Hainanese chicken rice was not great. The rice quality seemed poor, with a gritty texture that did not taste as good as the rice at other places.
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Travel Culture Guide: 15 Traditional Cafes Around the World - Coffeehouses, History and Local Life
Reposted from the web
Summary: 15 Traditional Cafes Around the World - Coffeehouses, History and Local Life is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, architecture, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Traditional Cafes, Coffee Culture, Travel History.
Mola Közde Kahveci cafe in Istanbul, Turkey.
Harire Mardin Kurdish cafe in Mardin, Turkey.
SaSa Bosnian cafe in the Old Town of Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina.
Andar Caffe Bar Bosnian cafe in the Old Town of Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina.
Younes, a legendary cafe in Beirut, Lebanon.
Bab Al Saray Cafe in the Old City of Sidon, Lebanon.
Bay Rock Cafe, a popular sunset spot in Beirut, Lebanon.
Street coffee in the Old City of Tripoli, Lebanon.
Haret Al-Sham Arabic cafe in the old city of Jeddah, Saudi Arabia.
Khan Shaheen cafe in the old city of Cairo, Egypt.
Bedouin cafe in the old city of Sharjah, United Arab Emirates.
Nimrah Iranian cafe in Hyderabad, India.
Hua Mei Hainanese cafe (Hua Mei Cha Can Shi) in Johor Bahru, Malaysia.
Nyonya Dynasty Peranakan cafe in Johor Bahru, Malaysia.
Yue Lai Hainanese coffee shop (Yue Lai Cha Shi) in Kuala Kangsar, Malaysia.
Mola Közde Kahveci cafe in Istanbul, Turkey.
Kadikoy is in the Asian side of Istanbul and has a very long history. Greeks built the first settlement on the Bosphorus here in 667 BC, a few years before Byzantium on the opposite shore. The Ottoman dynasty began ruling here in 1353, exactly 100 years before they conquered Constantinople in 1453. Under Ottoman rule, this place was a transport hub for crossing the Bosphorus, so it slowly grew into a busy town.
Today, it is a hangout spot for young people with several pedestrian shopping streets filled with cafes, restaurants, shops, craft stores, and bookstores. Although it lacks a wild nightlife and crowded tourist spots, life here is much more comfortable and relaxed.
People in Istanbul really love coffee. When we came back to the cafe downstairs from our place at midnight, it was full of people, and when we left at six in the morning, people were still drinking coffee. Charcoal-roasted Turkish coffee is delicious. It comes with a glass of water and a piece of chocolate, which is very refreshing.
Harire Mardin Kurdish cafe in Mardin, Turkey.
Mardin sits in the Upper Mesopotamia region, upstream of the Tigris and Euphrates rivers. The entire old city is built on the southern slope of a mountain ridge. A thousand-year-old castle stands on the cliff at the very top, with the stone city built in tiers below it. Because of this, you can look out over the Mesopotamian plains from any terrace in the old city, and the view is spectacular.
The ancient city of Mardin has a very long history. It was called Merida, meaning castle, during the Roman period. It became part of the Arab Empire in 640 and was later ruled in turn by several tribal dynasties of Mesopotamia. After 1085, Mardin was ruled successively by the Seljuk Empire, the Artuqid dynasty, and the Kara Koyunlu, all established by Oghuz Turkic tribes. It was finally incorporated into the Ottoman Empire in 1517. Five hundred years ago, many Armenians and Jews lived in the old city of Mardin. Today, it is mainly home to Kurds and Arabs, along with a significant number of Assyrian Christians, making the culture very diverse.
Harire Mardin is a cafe in Mardin with a very local feel. Local Mardin coffee is stronger than Turkish coffee. It contains orchid root powder (salep) and carob powder (carob), and the local Kurds and Assyrians both enjoy drinking it this way. Tabbaka is a yellow rice pudding invented by the Assyrians. Harire is a brown pudding made from local Mazruna grapes, and we finished by drinking purple basil sherbet (Reyhan Sherbet).
A Bosniak cafe in the old town of Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina.
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Bosniaks (Bošnjaci) are a Slavic-speaking Muslim ethnic group living in the Bosnia region of the Balkan Peninsula. They migrated to Bosnia from northeastern Europe as early as the 6th century and were under Ottoman rule for over four hundred years from 1463 to 1878, which strongly influenced their cultural customs.
We drank traditional Bosnian coffee (Bosanska Kahva) at the Grand Bazaar in the old town of Sarajevo. Coffee was first introduced to the Balkan Peninsula under Ottoman rule by Arabs in the 16th century. Sarajevo was one of the first European cities to open cafes, over a hundred years before cities in Western Europe started drinking coffee.
Cafes were an important part of Ottoman culture. People could listen to the day's main news, discuss daily gossip, and watch various impromptu performances like shadow puppetry. Cafes give people a place to share ideas outside of work and worship, and they are great spots to meet like-minded friends.
Bosnian coffee is made by grinding roasted coffee beans into a fine powder and brewing them in a long-handled copper pot called a Džezva (known as Cezve in Turkish), just like Turkish coffee. However, while Turkish coffee can be brewed with cold water, Bosnian coffee must be brewed with boiling water. You can add sugar to Turkish coffee while it brews, but you cannot add sugar to Bosnian coffee. Turkish coffee is poured into a cup for the customer, but Bosnian coffee is served by bringing the copper pot and the cup to the customer on a tray so they can pour it themselves.
A classic Bosnian coffee set includes the copper pot, a porcelain cup with a copper base, a copper tray, a copper sugar bowl for sugar cubes, and Turkish delight (rahat lokum). To drink it, bite off a piece of a sugar cube and hold it under your tongue to let it melt before you take a sip of coffee. Bosnian Turkish delight (rahat lokum) comes from the Turkish version (lokum). The yellow pieces are made with vanilla and the red ones are made with rose petals, and you can eat them whenever you like while drinking your coffee.
Andar Caffe Bar Bosnian cafe in the Old Town of Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina.
At Andar Caffe Bar in the old town of Sarajevo, the owner Maida's grandfather, Muharem, opened a handmade shoe shop in the Sarajevo Old Bazaar in 1933, which was later taken over by Maida's father, Osman. After Osman retired in 2010, Maida took over the shop, but handmade shoes were no longer popular as people started buying shoes in stores, so Maida turned the shop into the current cafe while keeping many shoe-themed elements inside.
Younes, a legendary cafe in Beirut, Lebanon.
Hamra is a busy and trendy neighborhood in Beirut near the American University, filled with young people and long known as the cultural center of Beirut. The environment here is relatively nice, making it a good place for shopping in Beirut.
The founder of Younes Cafe, Amin Younes Sr., immigrated to Brazil in 1894 and worked on a Brazilian coffee tycoon's plantation for 20 years. In 1935, Amin returned to Lebanon and opened Younes Cafe in downtown Beirut. During World War II, the collapse of the Lebanese currency wiped out most of Amin's savings, but he still managed to pull through. In 1960, Amin's son Souheil joined the family business and helped his father open the first branch of Younes Coffee in the Hamra district. It was one of the first coffee shops in Lebanon to buy an espresso machine. The main Younes shop in downtown Beirut was destroyed during the Lebanese Civil War in 1975, leaving only the Hamra branch standing.
Abou Anwar worked at Younes Coffee for 60 years starting in 1954. He was the shop's most senior coffee roasting master, and his expert skills drew in a large group of loyal customers. The coffee I ordered is named after him, the Abou Anwar Blend, which mixes his favorite fruits and spices.
Bab Al Saray Cafe in the Old City of Sidon, Lebanon.
The ancient city of Sidon is 40 kilometers south of the Lebanese capital, Beirut, and is the third-largest city in Lebanon. Sidon has a history of over 6,000 years, making it one of the oldest cities in the world. It played a major role in Mediterranean trade. The ancient city of Sidon is a well-preserved Sunni Muslim old town on the eastern Mediterranean coast. When you enter the maze-like streets from the north gate, you see many houses built over the streets to form tunnels. People set up stalls inside these tunnels, selling all kinds of goods and creating a very lively atmosphere.
We had mint lemonade and coffee at Bab Al Saray Cafe inside the old city. This is one of the oldest cafes in Sidon, and people say their brunch is very authentic.
Bay Rock Cafe, a popular sunset spot in Beirut, Lebanon.
In Beirut, you have to visit the famous Pigeon Rocks to watch the sunset. I want to mention that we met several very kind people in Beirut. First, a Palestinian refugee grandmother offered us grapes. On the way to Pigeon Rocks, we met a fellow Muslim (dosti) who kindly showed us the way. The dosti took us on a bus first to help us find the stop where we could catch the bus to Pigeon Rocks. Lebanese buses do not have signs, so you can just wave them down anywhere along the road. The dosti seemed more anxious than we were while waiting for the bus. He finally put us on the bus and waved goodbye without asking for a single cent. This friend (dosti) is completely different from the tricycle driver who kept trying to overcharge us on the way to the ancient city of Anjar.
There is a row of cafes next to Pigeon Rocks, from Bay Rock Cafe in the far south to Starbucks in the far north, all of which are classic spots to watch the sunset. Although many people post about this place online, it is actually not very crowded in the cafes, and it is still very relaxing. We ordered two juices and a plate of salad at Bay Rock Cafe and spent a romantic and wonderful evening.
Street coffee in the Old City of Tripoli, Lebanon.
Tripoli is located in northern Lebanon and has been an important port on the eastern Mediterranean coast for thousands of years. The market in the old city of Tripoli is very lively, which is a sharp contrast to Beirut. Ibn Battuta wrote in his travelogue: 'Afterwards, we arrived at the city of Tripoli.' That was an important town in Sham, with several small rivers flowing through it. It is surrounded by fragrant orchards and lush green trees. The sea surrounds it with blue water, and the land nourishes it with its treasures. The markets are filled with an amazing variety of goods.
We drank street coffee in the market and saw all kinds of dairy products, which was very interesting.
Haret Al-Sham Arabic cafe in the old city of Jeddah, Saudi Arabia.
Jeddah is located in the Hejaz region on the east coast of the Red Sea. In 647 AD, Caliph Uthman ordered it to be built as a port for travel to Mecca, and since then, Jeddah has become an important gateway for the Hajj by sea.
The Old Town of Jeddah is the last city along the Red Sea to preserve its traditional urban layout, consisting of tall tower houses, coral stone houses, traditional mosques, open-air markets (souqs), cafes, and small public squares. Traditional buildings like these were once common along the Red Sea coast, but after the 20th century, modernization left only a few standing. They serve as important witnesses to the Indian Ocean trade routes from the 16th to the early 20th century. Because of this, the Old Town of Jeddah was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2014.
We visited a traditional coffee shop in the old city of Jeddah. The shop is small but decorated beautifully with many traditional Hejazi elements, making it a great spot for photos. We ordered traditional coffee and dates dipped in tahini (sesame paste) to experience the lifestyle of old Jeddah.
Khan Shaheen cafe in the old city of Cairo, Egypt.
As a cultural capital with over a thousand years of history and hundreds of historical sites, Old Cairo was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list back in 1979. The current Old Cairo was built in 969 by the Fatimid dynasty. Over the next thousand years, it saw the Ayyubid, Mamluk, Ottoman, and Muhammad Ali dynasties, leaving behind hundreds of historical buildings.
As dawn breaks, the old city wakes up to the sound of the adhan. Roosters crow, dogs bark, and people get up for namaz. Breakfast shops set out their tables and chairs to open. This is how a day in the old city of Cairo begins.
After the dawn prayer, people often rest for a while. Most ticketed attractions in the old city open after nine o'clock. The old city is very quiet at this time, making it perfect for wandering through empty streets and feeling the weight of a thousand years of history. After breakfast, some shops turn into tea houses or cafes where people chat and let time slowly drift by.
We went to Khan Shaheen Cafe on the main Al-Mu'izz street in old Cairo, which is housed inside a historic caravanserai. We had coffee inside; the service charge was a bit high, but the atmosphere was really nice.
Bedouin cafe in the old city of Sharjah, United Arab Emirates.
The Al Qasimi family of the Huwayla tribe began ruling Sharjah in the early 18th century and officially declared independence in 1727. They built trade routes across the Strait of Hormuz connecting the Arabian Peninsula with Persia, which played an important role in exchanges between the two regions.
Throughout the 19th and early 20th centuries, Sharjah was a major pearl trading port in the Gulf. In 1830, the British counted three to four hundred pearl boats in Sharjah, and many of the city's 19th-century historical buildings are linked to the pearl trade.
Al Arsa Souq is the oldest surviving bazaar in Sharjah. It started as an open-air market where Bedouins brought camels to trade, and was later built into its current structure using coral stone and palm trees. I visited during the lunch break, and it was very quiet.
There is a traditional Arabic coffee shop inside the bazaar. I drank strong, herbal-tasting Arabic coffee paired with light dates and ate some chicken rice. Surrounded by people in traditional clothing, the atmosphere felt wonderful.
Nimrah Iranian cafe in Hyderabad, India.
Hyderabad means City of Lions and is a bustling ancient capital on the Deccan Plateau in South India. From 1364 to 1948, this area was ruled by Muslims for nearly six hundred years and served as the capital for both the Qutb Shahi and Asaf Jahi dynasties.
Hyderabad is now the most important center of Muslim culture in South India. Thirty percent of the city's population is Muslim, and most live in the Old City. They have a unique culture that is different from other parts of India, and they take pride in their language, literature, poetry, architecture, and food.
In the morning, I had a classic Hyderabad breakfast at Nimrah, an Iranian café next to the Charminar gate in the center of the Old City. I had Iranian tea (Irani chai) with Osmania biscuits and some other specialty cakes.
Iranian cafés in South Asia were first brought by Zoroastrians who fled religious persecution in Iran and moved to British India in the 20th century. They became popular in places like Hyderabad and Mumbai in India, and Karachi in Pakistan, with Iranian tea (Irani chai) being the most famous item.
Osmania biscuits are buttery cookies unique to Hyderabad. They were created at the request of Mir Osman Ali Khan, the last ruler of the Hyderabad Nizam dynasty who reigned from 1911 to 1948, and they are named after him.
Today, Osmania biscuits have become a cultural symbol of Hyderabad. Many Indians who visit the city buy these biscuits to take home. The most authentic Osmania biscuits are sold in the Old City area of Hyderabad.
Hua Mei Hainanese cafe (Hua Mei Cha Can Shi) in Johor Bahru, Malaysia.
As early as 1844, Temenggong Ibrahim of Johor encouraged Chinese and Javanese people to go to the Malay fishing village of Tanjung Puteri in southern Johor to open ports and clear the land. Chinese immigrants grew sugarcane and pepper here, while Javanese people dug canals, built roads, and planted coconuts. In 1866, this place was officially named Johor Bahru, known in Chinese as Xinshan.
The Hainanese coffee shop (Hailam Kopitiam) Hua Mei has been open since 1946, making it 78 years old and the oldest Hainanese coffee shop in Johor Bahru. Like many old-school Hainanese coffee shops in Malaysia, the owners are Hainanese Chinese, but they hire Malay cooks and staff so that Chinese, Malay, and Indian customers can all enjoy the food.
Hainanese people began immigrating to Malaysia in the 19th century. Many early immigrants worked as cooks and waiters in British hotels and restaurants, while some worked as servants for British officers. Influenced by their British employers, the Hainanese learned to cook Western food and blended it with Hainanese culinary elements to create the unique Hainanese coffee shop (Hailam Kopitiam) culture.
The word Kopitiam combines the Malay word kopi (coffee) and the Hokkien word tiam (shop), specializing in charcoal-grilled toast, white coffee, and soft-boiled eggs. Early Hainanese coffee shops were very popular with the British. Today, they serve as important social hubs where older people gather to discuss news and daily life.
At Hua Mei, we ordered the lamb claypot rice, Hainanese noodles, coffee and tea mix (cham), and a breakfast platter. The coffee and tea mix is just coffee, tea, and milk. The restaurant still has a very traditional feel, set in a classic two-story shophouse with bamboo blinds hanging on the doors and windows, which easily brings to mind the old days.
Nyonya Dynasty Peranakan cafe in Johor Bahru, Malaysia.
On Jalan Dhoby, a street with century-old shophouses in the old town of Johor Bahru, sits Nyonya Dynasty, the first Nyonya cafe in Johor, Malaysia, to receive halal certification. The owners, Lu Xucheng and Li Baoshan, originally ran a travel agency. When their business was hit hard in early 2020, they decided to turn part of the office space into a Nyonya cafe. The two owners specifically learned the craft from an authentic Nyonya chef in Malacca and invited him to the shop every week to supervise until the dishes were consistent. Because customers loved the Nyonya food so much, they moved the shop to Jalan Dhoby in the old town of Johor Bahru in 2022 and officially named it Nyonya Dynasty.
Besides coffee, we ordered their signature Nyonya trio, which includes Nyonya clam rice noodles (lala mifen), fried shrimp wontons (zha yuntun xia), and shrimp paste chicken wings (xiajiang jichi). We also ordered grilled Nyonya fish (Nyonya shaoyu), Nyonya okra (Nyonya yangjiaodou), and shaved ice dessert (chendol). Lala means clams. They buy fresh clams every morning, tap each one to remove the sand, and then simmer them for three hours to make a rich broth, adding bird's eye chili, green onions, and garlic. The grilled fish and okra are both topped with a signature Nyonya tamarind sauce (Asam), which gives them a unique sour and spicy flavor. Their shaved ice dessert (chendol) follows the owner's mother's family recipe. The palm sugar is simmered for two or three hours, and they use freshly squeezed coconut milk, making the texture very rich.
Yue Lai Hainanese coffee shop (Yue Lai Cha Shi) in Kuala Kangsar, Malaysia.
Kuala Kangsar has been the royal city of the Sultan of Perak since the 18th century. The town center still keeps an old street with arcade buildings (qilou), where you can find a traditional Hainanese coffee shop called Yut Loy Coffee Shop. Like many Hainanese coffee shops in old Malaysian towns, the Hainanese owner hires Malay staff here. This allows Chinese, Malay, and Indian customers to all dine in the shop together.
Since Yut Loy Coffee Shop only serves main meals after 1:00 PM, we had coffee with toast, honey, and butter in the shop during the morning. I used to read novels about Southeast Asia where old people would sit in Hainan-style coffee shops like this for the whole morning with just a cup of coffee, a piece of toast, and a newspaper. This time, we got to experience it ourselves.
Irani cafés Collapse Read »
Summary: 15 Traditional Cafes Around the World - Coffeehouses, History and Local Life is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, architecture, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Traditional Cafes, Coffee Culture, Travel History.
Mola Közde Kahveci cafe in Istanbul, Turkey.
Harire Mardin Kurdish cafe in Mardin, Turkey.
SaSa Bosnian cafe in the Old Town of Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina.
Andar Caffe Bar Bosnian cafe in the Old Town of Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina.
Younes, a legendary cafe in Beirut, Lebanon.
Bab Al Saray Cafe in the Old City of Sidon, Lebanon.
Bay Rock Cafe, a popular sunset spot in Beirut, Lebanon.
Street coffee in the Old City of Tripoli, Lebanon.
Haret Al-Sham Arabic cafe in the old city of Jeddah, Saudi Arabia.
Khan Shaheen cafe in the old city of Cairo, Egypt.
Bedouin cafe in the old city of Sharjah, United Arab Emirates.
Nimrah Iranian cafe in Hyderabad, India.
Hua Mei Hainanese cafe (Hua Mei Cha Can Shi) in Johor Bahru, Malaysia.
Nyonya Dynasty Peranakan cafe in Johor Bahru, Malaysia.
Yue Lai Hainanese coffee shop (Yue Lai Cha Shi) in Kuala Kangsar, Malaysia.
Mola Közde Kahveci cafe in Istanbul, Turkey.
Kadikoy is in the Asian side of Istanbul and has a very long history. Greeks built the first settlement on the Bosphorus here in 667 BC, a few years before Byzantium on the opposite shore. The Ottoman dynasty began ruling here in 1353, exactly 100 years before they conquered Constantinople in 1453. Under Ottoman rule, this place was a transport hub for crossing the Bosphorus, so it slowly grew into a busy town.
Today, it is a hangout spot for young people with several pedestrian shopping streets filled with cafes, restaurants, shops, craft stores, and bookstores. Although it lacks a wild nightlife and crowded tourist spots, life here is much more comfortable and relaxed.
People in Istanbul really love coffee. When we came back to the cafe downstairs from our place at midnight, it was full of people, and when we left at six in the morning, people were still drinking coffee. Charcoal-roasted Turkish coffee is delicious. It comes with a glass of water and a piece of chocolate, which is very refreshing.
Harire Mardin Kurdish cafe in Mardin, Turkey.
Mardin sits in the Upper Mesopotamia region, upstream of the Tigris and Euphrates rivers. The entire old city is built on the southern slope of a mountain ridge. A thousand-year-old castle stands on the cliff at the very top, with the stone city built in tiers below it. Because of this, you can look out over the Mesopotamian plains from any terrace in the old city, and the view is spectacular.
The ancient city of Mardin has a very long history. It was called Merida, meaning castle, during the Roman period. It became part of the Arab Empire in 640 and was later ruled in turn by several tribal dynasties of Mesopotamia. After 1085, Mardin was ruled successively by the Seljuk Empire, the Artuqid dynasty, and the Kara Koyunlu, all established by Oghuz Turkic tribes. It was finally incorporated into the Ottoman Empire in 1517. Five hundred years ago, many Armenians and Jews lived in the old city of Mardin. Today, it is mainly home to Kurds and Arabs, along with a significant number of Assyrian Christians, making the culture very diverse.
Harire Mardin is a cafe in Mardin with a very local feel. Local Mardin coffee is stronger than Turkish coffee. It contains orchid root powder (salep) and carob powder (carob), and the local Kurds and Assyrians both enjoy drinking it this way. Tabbaka is a yellow rice pudding invented by the Assyrians. Harire is a brown pudding made from local Mazruna grapes, and we finished by drinking purple basil sherbet (Reyhan Sherbet).
A Bosniak cafe in the old town of Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina.
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Bosniaks (Bošnjaci) are a Slavic-speaking Muslim ethnic group living in the Bosnia region of the Balkan Peninsula. They migrated to Bosnia from northeastern Europe as early as the 6th century and were under Ottoman rule for over four hundred years from 1463 to 1878, which strongly influenced their cultural customs.
We drank traditional Bosnian coffee (Bosanska Kahva) at the Grand Bazaar in the old town of Sarajevo. Coffee was first introduced to the Balkan Peninsula under Ottoman rule by Arabs in the 16th century. Sarajevo was one of the first European cities to open cafes, over a hundred years before cities in Western Europe started drinking coffee.
Cafes were an important part of Ottoman culture. People could listen to the day's main news, discuss daily gossip, and watch various impromptu performances like shadow puppetry. Cafes give people a place to share ideas outside of work and worship, and they are great spots to meet like-minded friends.
Bosnian coffee is made by grinding roasted coffee beans into a fine powder and brewing them in a long-handled copper pot called a Džezva (known as Cezve in Turkish), just like Turkish coffee. However, while Turkish coffee can be brewed with cold water, Bosnian coffee must be brewed with boiling water. You can add sugar to Turkish coffee while it brews, but you cannot add sugar to Bosnian coffee. Turkish coffee is poured into a cup for the customer, but Bosnian coffee is served by bringing the copper pot and the cup to the customer on a tray so they can pour it themselves.
A classic Bosnian coffee set includes the copper pot, a porcelain cup with a copper base, a copper tray, a copper sugar bowl for sugar cubes, and Turkish delight (rahat lokum). To drink it, bite off a piece of a sugar cube and hold it under your tongue to let it melt before you take a sip of coffee. Bosnian Turkish delight (rahat lokum) comes from the Turkish version (lokum). The yellow pieces are made with vanilla and the red ones are made with rose petals, and you can eat them whenever you like while drinking your coffee.
Andar Caffe Bar Bosnian cafe in the Old Town of Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina.
At Andar Caffe Bar in the old town of Sarajevo, the owner Maida's grandfather, Muharem, opened a handmade shoe shop in the Sarajevo Old Bazaar in 1933, which was later taken over by Maida's father, Osman. After Osman retired in 2010, Maida took over the shop, but handmade shoes were no longer popular as people started buying shoes in stores, so Maida turned the shop into the current cafe while keeping many shoe-themed elements inside.
Younes, a legendary cafe in Beirut, Lebanon.
Hamra is a busy and trendy neighborhood in Beirut near the American University, filled with young people and long known as the cultural center of Beirut. The environment here is relatively nice, making it a good place for shopping in Beirut.
The founder of Younes Cafe, Amin Younes Sr., immigrated to Brazil in 1894 and worked on a Brazilian coffee tycoon's plantation for 20 years. In 1935, Amin returned to Lebanon and opened Younes Cafe in downtown Beirut. During World War II, the collapse of the Lebanese currency wiped out most of Amin's savings, but he still managed to pull through. In 1960, Amin's son Souheil joined the family business and helped his father open the first branch of Younes Coffee in the Hamra district. It was one of the first coffee shops in Lebanon to buy an espresso machine. The main Younes shop in downtown Beirut was destroyed during the Lebanese Civil War in 1975, leaving only the Hamra branch standing.
Abou Anwar worked at Younes Coffee for 60 years starting in 1954. He was the shop's most senior coffee roasting master, and his expert skills drew in a large group of loyal customers. The coffee I ordered is named after him, the Abou Anwar Blend, which mixes his favorite fruits and spices.
Bab Al Saray Cafe in the Old City of Sidon, Lebanon.
The ancient city of Sidon is 40 kilometers south of the Lebanese capital, Beirut, and is the third-largest city in Lebanon. Sidon has a history of over 6,000 years, making it one of the oldest cities in the world. It played a major role in Mediterranean trade. The ancient city of Sidon is a well-preserved Sunni Muslim old town on the eastern Mediterranean coast. When you enter the maze-like streets from the north gate, you see many houses built over the streets to form tunnels. People set up stalls inside these tunnels, selling all kinds of goods and creating a very lively atmosphere.
We had mint lemonade and coffee at Bab Al Saray Cafe inside the old city. This is one of the oldest cafes in Sidon, and people say their brunch is very authentic.
Bay Rock Cafe, a popular sunset spot in Beirut, Lebanon.
In Beirut, you have to visit the famous Pigeon Rocks to watch the sunset. I want to mention that we met several very kind people in Beirut. First, a Palestinian refugee grandmother offered us grapes. On the way to Pigeon Rocks, we met a fellow Muslim (dosti) who kindly showed us the way. The dosti took us on a bus first to help us find the stop where we could catch the bus to Pigeon Rocks. Lebanese buses do not have signs, so you can just wave them down anywhere along the road. The dosti seemed more anxious than we were while waiting for the bus. He finally put us on the bus and waved goodbye without asking for a single cent. This friend (dosti) is completely different from the tricycle driver who kept trying to overcharge us on the way to the ancient city of Anjar.
There is a row of cafes next to Pigeon Rocks, from Bay Rock Cafe in the far south to Starbucks in the far north, all of which are classic spots to watch the sunset. Although many people post about this place online, it is actually not very crowded in the cafes, and it is still very relaxing. We ordered two juices and a plate of salad at Bay Rock Cafe and spent a romantic and wonderful evening.
Street coffee in the Old City of Tripoli, Lebanon.
Tripoli is located in northern Lebanon and has been an important port on the eastern Mediterranean coast for thousands of years. The market in the old city of Tripoli is very lively, which is a sharp contrast to Beirut. Ibn Battuta wrote in his travelogue: 'Afterwards, we arrived at the city of Tripoli.' That was an important town in Sham, with several small rivers flowing through it. It is surrounded by fragrant orchards and lush green trees. The sea surrounds it with blue water, and the land nourishes it with its treasures. The markets are filled with an amazing variety of goods.
We drank street coffee in the market and saw all kinds of dairy products, which was very interesting.
Haret Al-Sham Arabic cafe in the old city of Jeddah, Saudi Arabia.
Jeddah is located in the Hejaz region on the east coast of the Red Sea. In 647 AD, Caliph Uthman ordered it to be built as a port for travel to Mecca, and since then, Jeddah has become an important gateway for the Hajj by sea.
The Old Town of Jeddah is the last city along the Red Sea to preserve its traditional urban layout, consisting of tall tower houses, coral stone houses, traditional mosques, open-air markets (souqs), cafes, and small public squares. Traditional buildings like these were once common along the Red Sea coast, but after the 20th century, modernization left only a few standing. They serve as important witnesses to the Indian Ocean trade routes from the 16th to the early 20th century. Because of this, the Old Town of Jeddah was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2014.
We visited a traditional coffee shop in the old city of Jeddah. The shop is small but decorated beautifully with many traditional Hejazi elements, making it a great spot for photos. We ordered traditional coffee and dates dipped in tahini (sesame paste) to experience the lifestyle of old Jeddah.
Khan Shaheen cafe in the old city of Cairo, Egypt.
As a cultural capital with over a thousand years of history and hundreds of historical sites, Old Cairo was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list back in 1979. The current Old Cairo was built in 969 by the Fatimid dynasty. Over the next thousand years, it saw the Ayyubid, Mamluk, Ottoman, and Muhammad Ali dynasties, leaving behind hundreds of historical buildings.
As dawn breaks, the old city wakes up to the sound of the adhan. Roosters crow, dogs bark, and people get up for namaz. Breakfast shops set out their tables and chairs to open. This is how a day in the old city of Cairo begins.
After the dawn prayer, people often rest for a while. Most ticketed attractions in the old city open after nine o'clock. The old city is very quiet at this time, making it perfect for wandering through empty streets and feeling the weight of a thousand years of history. After breakfast, some shops turn into tea houses or cafes where people chat and let time slowly drift by.
We went to Khan Shaheen Cafe on the main Al-Mu'izz street in old Cairo, which is housed inside a historic caravanserai. We had coffee inside; the service charge was a bit high, but the atmosphere was really nice.
Bedouin cafe in the old city of Sharjah, United Arab Emirates.
The Al Qasimi family of the Huwayla tribe began ruling Sharjah in the early 18th century and officially declared independence in 1727. They built trade routes across the Strait of Hormuz connecting the Arabian Peninsula with Persia, which played an important role in exchanges between the two regions.
Throughout the 19th and early 20th centuries, Sharjah was a major pearl trading port in the Gulf. In 1830, the British counted three to four hundred pearl boats in Sharjah, and many of the city's 19th-century historical buildings are linked to the pearl trade.
Al Arsa Souq is the oldest surviving bazaar in Sharjah. It started as an open-air market where Bedouins brought camels to trade, and was later built into its current structure using coral stone and palm trees. I visited during the lunch break, and it was very quiet.
There is a traditional Arabic coffee shop inside the bazaar. I drank strong, herbal-tasting Arabic coffee paired with light dates and ate some chicken rice. Surrounded by people in traditional clothing, the atmosphere felt wonderful.
Nimrah Iranian cafe in Hyderabad, India.
Hyderabad means City of Lions and is a bustling ancient capital on the Deccan Plateau in South India. From 1364 to 1948, this area was ruled by Muslims for nearly six hundred years and served as the capital for both the Qutb Shahi and Asaf Jahi dynasties.
Hyderabad is now the most important center of Muslim culture in South India. Thirty percent of the city's population is Muslim, and most live in the Old City. They have a unique culture that is different from other parts of India, and they take pride in their language, literature, poetry, architecture, and food.
In the morning, I had a classic Hyderabad breakfast at Nimrah, an Iranian café next to the Charminar gate in the center of the Old City. I had Iranian tea (Irani chai) with Osmania biscuits and some other specialty cakes.
Iranian cafés in South Asia were first brought by Zoroastrians who fled religious persecution in Iran and moved to British India in the 20th century. They became popular in places like Hyderabad and Mumbai in India, and Karachi in Pakistan, with Iranian tea (Irani chai) being the most famous item.
Osmania biscuits are buttery cookies unique to Hyderabad. They were created at the request of Mir Osman Ali Khan, the last ruler of the Hyderabad Nizam dynasty who reigned from 1911 to 1948, and they are named after him.
Today, Osmania biscuits have become a cultural symbol of Hyderabad. Many Indians who visit the city buy these biscuits to take home. The most authentic Osmania biscuits are sold in the Old City area of Hyderabad.
Hua Mei Hainanese cafe (Hua Mei Cha Can Shi) in Johor Bahru, Malaysia.
As early as 1844, Temenggong Ibrahim of Johor encouraged Chinese and Javanese people to go to the Malay fishing village of Tanjung Puteri in southern Johor to open ports and clear the land. Chinese immigrants grew sugarcane and pepper here, while Javanese people dug canals, built roads, and planted coconuts. In 1866, this place was officially named Johor Bahru, known in Chinese as Xinshan.
The Hainanese coffee shop (Hailam Kopitiam) Hua Mei has been open since 1946, making it 78 years old and the oldest Hainanese coffee shop in Johor Bahru. Like many old-school Hainanese coffee shops in Malaysia, the owners are Hainanese Chinese, but they hire Malay cooks and staff so that Chinese, Malay, and Indian customers can all enjoy the food.
Hainanese people began immigrating to Malaysia in the 19th century. Many early immigrants worked as cooks and waiters in British hotels and restaurants, while some worked as servants for British officers. Influenced by their British employers, the Hainanese learned to cook Western food and blended it with Hainanese culinary elements to create the unique Hainanese coffee shop (Hailam Kopitiam) culture.
The word Kopitiam combines the Malay word kopi (coffee) and the Hokkien word tiam (shop), specializing in charcoal-grilled toast, white coffee, and soft-boiled eggs. Early Hainanese coffee shops were very popular with the British. Today, they serve as important social hubs where older people gather to discuss news and daily life.
At Hua Mei, we ordered the lamb claypot rice, Hainanese noodles, coffee and tea mix (cham), and a breakfast platter. The coffee and tea mix is just coffee, tea, and milk. The restaurant still has a very traditional feel, set in a classic two-story shophouse with bamboo blinds hanging on the doors and windows, which easily brings to mind the old days.
Nyonya Dynasty Peranakan cafe in Johor Bahru, Malaysia.
On Jalan Dhoby, a street with century-old shophouses in the old town of Johor Bahru, sits Nyonya Dynasty, the first Nyonya cafe in Johor, Malaysia, to receive halal certification. The owners, Lu Xucheng and Li Baoshan, originally ran a travel agency. When their business was hit hard in early 2020, they decided to turn part of the office space into a Nyonya cafe. The two owners specifically learned the craft from an authentic Nyonya chef in Malacca and invited him to the shop every week to supervise until the dishes were consistent. Because customers loved the Nyonya food so much, they moved the shop to Jalan Dhoby in the old town of Johor Bahru in 2022 and officially named it Nyonya Dynasty.
Besides coffee, we ordered their signature Nyonya trio, which includes Nyonya clam rice noodles (lala mifen), fried shrimp wontons (zha yuntun xia), and shrimp paste chicken wings (xiajiang jichi). We also ordered grilled Nyonya fish (Nyonya shaoyu), Nyonya okra (Nyonya yangjiaodou), and shaved ice dessert (chendol). Lala means clams. They buy fresh clams every morning, tap each one to remove the sand, and then simmer them for three hours to make a rich broth, adding bird's eye chili, green onions, and garlic. The grilled fish and okra are both topped with a signature Nyonya tamarind sauce (Asam), which gives them a unique sour and spicy flavor. Their shaved ice dessert (chendol) follows the owner's mother's family recipe. The palm sugar is simmered for two or three hours, and they use freshly squeezed coconut milk, making the texture very rich.
Yue Lai Hainanese coffee shop (Yue Lai Cha Shi) in Kuala Kangsar, Malaysia.
Kuala Kangsar has been the royal city of the Sultan of Perak since the 18th century. The town center still keeps an old street with arcade buildings (qilou), where you can find a traditional Hainanese coffee shop called Yut Loy Coffee Shop. Like many Hainanese coffee shops in old Malaysian towns, the Hainanese owner hires Malay staff here. This allows Chinese, Malay, and Indian customers to all dine in the shop together.
Since Yut Loy Coffee Shop only serves main meals after 1:00 PM, we had coffee with toast, honey, and butter in the shop during the morning. I used to read novels about Southeast Asia where old people would sit in Hainan-style coffee shops like this for the whole morning with just a cup of coffee, a piece of toast, and a newspaper. This time, we got to experience it ourselves.
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Halal Food Guide: Beijing - 10 Muslim Restaurants Worth Trying
Reposted from the web
Summary: Beijing - 10 Muslim Restaurants Worth Trying is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, mosques, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Beijing Halal Food, Muslim Restaurants, Halal Travel.
1. Pakistani restaurant: Lahore Courtyard
Lahore Courtyard is a Pakistani restaurant on the small street outside Dongzhimen. I have been to their Qingnian Road location many times, but this was my first visit to the Dongzhimen branch.
The Dongzhimen branch has fewer menu items than the Qingnian Road location. We ordered Punjabi chickpeas (Punjabi Chole), grilled cream chicken chunks (Chicken Malai Boti), flatbread (Paratha), garlic naan (Naan), strawberry yogurt drink (Laasi), and malt beverage (Barbican). Suleiman really liked their sofa and lounged on it comfortably.
In grilled cream chicken chunks (Chicken Malai Boti), 'Malai' is the Urdu word for cream. The chicken is marinated in cream or yogurt before cooking, which makes the meat very tender and fragrant with a milky flavor.
Punjabi chickpeas (Punjabi Chole) is a classic Punjabi banquet dish, where 'Chole' means chickpeas in Punjabi. This dish is served at almost every Punjabi wedding, and Lahore is the capital of Pakistan's Punjab province. To make it, you soak the chickpeas overnight, then cook them with onions, tomatoes, and various spices to create a masala curry, which is eaten with flatbread.
We ordered two types of bread: unleavened flatbread (paratha) and leavened garlic naan (naan). Their naan was better. It was fresh, smelled strongly of wheat, and tasted great with curry.
Zainab and Sulaiman both loved the yogurt drink (lassi) here. It was sugar-free and room temperature, so even the kids could drink it.
I drank a malt beverage (barbican). It originated in the UK, was brought to the Middle East by the Saudi company Aujan in 1982, and has been produced in Dubai since 2005. It is now the most famous malt drink in the Middle East. I first drank a barbican at an imported goods supermarket near my university. I didn't have much money back then, so I could only have one occasionally in the summer. It felt very refreshing. Ten years have passed in a flash. Now that I earn my own money, I can finally drink as much barbican as I want.
2. Beef knife-cut noodles (daoxiaomian):
Business is booming.
The Maimaihong Beef Sliced Noodles shop from Jiaozuo, Henan, serves the best sliced noodles I have ever had in Beijing!
There are many halal hand-pulled noodle (lamian) shops in Beijing, but very few that serve sliced noodles. After work, I went to Maimaihong Beef Sliced Noodles near the Anheqiao North subway station. It is run by a Hui Muslim family named Mai from Jiaozuo, and they make authentic braised beef sliced noodles in the style of the Jin-speaking region. I ordered the deluxe beef sliced noodles and added dried tofu (dougan). It tasted very authentic, just like what I had in Shanxi before. The beef was stewed until very fragrant, and the sliced noodles had a great chew.
3. Mongolian food:
Hulun Aile
I had a Hulunbuir Mongolian meal at Hulun Aile in Shilihe. It is a rare halal Mongolian restaurant in Beijing, and the food is very authentic.
We ordered the dairy afternoon tea set, which included salty milk tea with roasted rice (chaomi), a platter of various dairy products, fresh milk, and milk brick ice cream. Aside from some of the dairy being a bit too sweet, it felt like a perfect setup for drinking tea and chatting.
We also ordered hand-held beef steak (shouba niupai). Cutting it with a small knife and spreading fresh chive flower sauce and chili sauce on the tip of the blade really gave it a grassland vibe. There were also Buryat steamed buns (Buryat baozi). They are similar to the thin-skinned buns from Xinjiang, but the filling is made of meat chunks. I think they taste better than the kind made with ground meat, though the skin is a bit thicker than the Xinjiang version.
We also had various Hulunbuir lamb rolls for hot pot. I found these to be quite ordinary and not as unique as the Mongolian dishes we had earlier. We didn't order the meat sausages or air-dried meat, but we will definitely try them next time. Overall, this place is well worth a visit.
4. West Africa, Ghana: Tribe Garden
The West African Ghanaian restaurant Tribe Garden in Sanlitun SOHO is open from 2 p.m. to 4 a.m. on Saturdays and Sundays.
They seem to be the only West African restaurant in Beijing. We ordered the grilled chicken leg Jollof rice, grilled tilapia fried rice, and fried African plantains, and everything was delicious! The grilled tilapia is especially good, with crispy skin and tender meat. It has no large bones, so Suleiman loves eating it.
The name Jollof rice comes from the Jolof Empire and Jolof Kingdom that ruled West Africa from the 14th to 19th centuries. It likely started in Senegal and spread across West Africa through Dyula traders. The Ghanaian version of Jollof rice is made with long-grain rice, onions, ginger, garlic, chili peppers, tomatoes, tomato paste, and meat. You can use beef, goat, or chicken. To make it, first stir-fry the meat, then add onions, peppers, tomato paste, tomatoes, and various spices before cooking the rice. Once it is ready, it is usually served with plantains, beef, chicken, or fried fish.
Ghanaian fried plantains are called Kelewele. They are made by slicing plantains, seasoning them with spices, and frying them until golden brown. It is a classic street snack.
They also have many West African specialties, like fried plantains with black-eyed peas, melon seed soup (Egusi) with pounded yam (Fufu), and seafood Jollof rice. I previously ate Egusi with Fufu at Sina Restaurant in Yiwu, and to be honest, it was a bit hard to get used to. If you are trying West African food for the first time, I recommend starting with Jollof rice or fried rice.
5. Xi'an food: Xing Laosi Meatball Spicy Soup (rouwan hulatang).
I visited the Xing Laosi Meatball Spicy Soup shop at the Lianhang Food Court near the Lama Temple (Yonghegong) and had the meatball spicy soup with a cured beef sandwich (labanirou jiamo). Beijing
Many halal Henan-style spicy soup shops have opened in Beijing over the last two years, but this seems to be the only halal Shaanxi-style meatball spicy soup shop.
Their meatball spicy soup is not as peppery as the version in Xi'an, so it is easy for Beijing locals to enjoy, but I felt the starch thickener was a bit too heavy. I really liked the cured beef sandwich; it tastes almost the same as the ones I have had in the Muslim Quarter (fangshang) in Xi'an.
The Lianhang Food Court at the Lama Temple is a bit hard to find. Look for the elevator to the left of the Yonghe Shuting bookstore, go down to the basement, and turn left to find the shop. Liangtaoxuan Beef Noodles and a Uyghur pilaf (zhua fan) shop used to be here. Both were delicious, but unfortunately, they have both closed. I hope this place stays open.
6. Xinjiang cuisine: Jinying Meatball Soup
I have been eating at Jinying Meatball Soup for ten years and have always loved it. This was Suleiman's first time trying it.
We specifically asked for the non-spicy meatball soup. Suleiman really liked the meatballs and the meat. Of course, his favorite was the steamed layered bun (youtazi). He held onto it and wouldn't let go; he wanted to eat all six of them. I also think the steamed layered bun is incredibly fragrant—regular steamed rolls (huajuan) just can't compare!
Among all the dishes at Jinying Meatball Soup, my favorite is the beef bone (niubanggu). It is stewed until it is fragrant and tender. I used a small knife to cut it off, and Suleiman enjoyed it very much.
7. Xinjiang cuisine: Hotan Canteen Open-Air Night Market
The Hetian canteen now feels a bit like a small Xinjiang night market! Time to try all the snacks!
The thin-skinned steamed buns (baopi baozi) are wrapped and steamed to order. They are hot, fragrant, and come in both pumpkin and lamb fillings, both of which are very authentic.
I have always loved their yogurt shaved ice (suannai baobing), and I think theirs is the best in Beijing. This time I even saw rye flatbread (heimai nang) there, which is rare even in Urumqi! It has a very rich rye flavor.
Finally, they have added a new Yili specialty: handmade ice cream (awulali shougong bingqilin)! They have many flavors, so we chose almond, original, and honey. After trying them, I still think the original is the best. Now we can finally eat Yili handmade ice cream in Beijing.
8. Syrian Restaurant: BRBR SOLANA branch
We had a Syrian meal at BRBR in SOLANA. I called 40 minutes ahead to book a table because they are very popular on weekends.
We ordered half a chicken, lamb shank with yogurt (laban), salty yogurt drink (ayran), fava beans with tahini (ful medames), mixed buttered vegetables, sand-brewed coffee, and Damascus ice cream. The lamb shank with yogurt was quite tender and goes perfectly with rice. The salty yogurt drink didn't have much sourness and was mostly just salty. It didn't taste as good as what we drank in the Middle East, likely due to the source of the milk. The tahini in the fava beans was thicker than what we had in the Middle East, making it a bit dry to eat on its own. We asked for an Arabic flatbread (khubz), but since it was a busy weekend, the staff weren't very attentive and the bread never arrived. The roasted chicken, sand-brewed coffee, and Damascus ice cream were all as delicious as always.
9. Beijing fusion food: Gulou Chimianguan.
The fermented bean curd noodles (choudoufu mian) at the Gulou East Street branch of Gulou Chimianguan smell really strong, but they taste delicious! I finished the noodles in just a few bites, and even my burps smelled like fermented bean curd. Beijing locals really love this, and I recommend visitors give it a try too.
On Mondays, they have a buy-one-get-one-free deal on mini burgers, so I ordered a roasted lamb burger (shao yangrou bao). I usually eat roasted lamb noodles with Sichuan peppercorn sauce (shao yangrou huajiao cuan'er mian), but this was my first time having a roasted lamb burger. It is a great mix of Chinese and Western flavors, and it really feels like our own Beijing-style fast food, haha.
Their cold noodles (lengmian) are incredibly satisfying. Back when I was stuck at home during the pandemic, I survived by ordering these cold noodles for delivery.
This was my first time eating fried dough (youxiang) with a knife and fork. It is not the traditional leavened dough style from North China, but feels more like a hot-water dough version, and the added cheese makes it very fragrant.
10. Beijing cuisine: Xilaishun.
Whenever I am near Qianmen, Xilaishun is my go-to place to eat. I order the same things every time I visit Xilaishun: half a Ma Lianliang duck, stir-fried chicken cubes in bean sauce (jiangbao jiding), braised beef tendon (hongshao wogujin), bamboo fungus and jasmine soup (zhusun moli tang), fermented bean curd (ma doufu), stir-fried shrimp with green peas, luffa tips, and lotus leaf pancakes (heye bing). I personally think the Ma Lianliang duck tastes better than Beijing roast duck; it is fragrant, crispy, and delicious when wrapped in the pancakes.
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Summary: Beijing - 10 Muslim Restaurants Worth Trying is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, mosques, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Beijing Halal Food, Muslim Restaurants, Halal Travel.
1. Pakistani restaurant: Lahore Courtyard
Lahore Courtyard is a Pakistani restaurant on the small street outside Dongzhimen. I have been to their Qingnian Road location many times, but this was my first visit to the Dongzhimen branch.
The Dongzhimen branch has fewer menu items than the Qingnian Road location. We ordered Punjabi chickpeas (Punjabi Chole), grilled cream chicken chunks (Chicken Malai Boti), flatbread (Paratha), garlic naan (Naan), strawberry yogurt drink (Laasi), and malt beverage (Barbican). Suleiman really liked their sofa and lounged on it comfortably.
In grilled cream chicken chunks (Chicken Malai Boti), 'Malai' is the Urdu word for cream. The chicken is marinated in cream or yogurt before cooking, which makes the meat very tender and fragrant with a milky flavor.
Punjabi chickpeas (Punjabi Chole) is a classic Punjabi banquet dish, where 'Chole' means chickpeas in Punjabi. This dish is served at almost every Punjabi wedding, and Lahore is the capital of Pakistan's Punjab province. To make it, you soak the chickpeas overnight, then cook them with onions, tomatoes, and various spices to create a masala curry, which is eaten with flatbread.
We ordered two types of bread: unleavened flatbread (paratha) and leavened garlic naan (naan). Their naan was better. It was fresh, smelled strongly of wheat, and tasted great with curry.
Zainab and Sulaiman both loved the yogurt drink (lassi) here. It was sugar-free and room temperature, so even the kids could drink it.
I drank a malt beverage (barbican). It originated in the UK, was brought to the Middle East by the Saudi company Aujan in 1982, and has been produced in Dubai since 2005. It is now the most famous malt drink in the Middle East. I first drank a barbican at an imported goods supermarket near my university. I didn't have much money back then, so I could only have one occasionally in the summer. It felt very refreshing. Ten years have passed in a flash. Now that I earn my own money, I can finally drink as much barbican as I want.
2. Beef knife-cut noodles (daoxiaomian):
Business is booming.
The Maimaihong Beef Sliced Noodles shop from Jiaozuo, Henan, serves the best sliced noodles I have ever had in Beijing!
There are many halal hand-pulled noodle (lamian) shops in Beijing, but very few that serve sliced noodles. After work, I went to Maimaihong Beef Sliced Noodles near the Anheqiao North subway station. It is run by a Hui Muslim family named Mai from Jiaozuo, and they make authentic braised beef sliced noodles in the style of the Jin-speaking region. I ordered the deluxe beef sliced noodles and added dried tofu (dougan). It tasted very authentic, just like what I had in Shanxi before. The beef was stewed until very fragrant, and the sliced noodles had a great chew.
3. Mongolian food:
Hulun Aile
I had a Hulunbuir Mongolian meal at Hulun Aile in Shilihe. It is a rare halal Mongolian restaurant in Beijing, and the food is very authentic.
We ordered the dairy afternoon tea set, which included salty milk tea with roasted rice (chaomi), a platter of various dairy products, fresh milk, and milk brick ice cream. Aside from some of the dairy being a bit too sweet, it felt like a perfect setup for drinking tea and chatting.
We also ordered hand-held beef steak (shouba niupai). Cutting it with a small knife and spreading fresh chive flower sauce and chili sauce on the tip of the blade really gave it a grassland vibe. There were also Buryat steamed buns (Buryat baozi). They are similar to the thin-skinned buns from Xinjiang, but the filling is made of meat chunks. I think they taste better than the kind made with ground meat, though the skin is a bit thicker than the Xinjiang version.
We also had various Hulunbuir lamb rolls for hot pot. I found these to be quite ordinary and not as unique as the Mongolian dishes we had earlier. We didn't order the meat sausages or air-dried meat, but we will definitely try them next time. Overall, this place is well worth a visit.
4. West Africa, Ghana: Tribe Garden
The West African Ghanaian restaurant Tribe Garden in Sanlitun SOHO is open from 2 p.m. to 4 a.m. on Saturdays and Sundays.
They seem to be the only West African restaurant in Beijing. We ordered the grilled chicken leg Jollof rice, grilled tilapia fried rice, and fried African plantains, and everything was delicious! The grilled tilapia is especially good, with crispy skin and tender meat. It has no large bones, so Suleiman loves eating it.
The name Jollof rice comes from the Jolof Empire and Jolof Kingdom that ruled West Africa from the 14th to 19th centuries. It likely started in Senegal and spread across West Africa through Dyula traders. The Ghanaian version of Jollof rice is made with long-grain rice, onions, ginger, garlic, chili peppers, tomatoes, tomato paste, and meat. You can use beef, goat, or chicken. To make it, first stir-fry the meat, then add onions, peppers, tomato paste, tomatoes, and various spices before cooking the rice. Once it is ready, it is usually served with plantains, beef, chicken, or fried fish.
Ghanaian fried plantains are called Kelewele. They are made by slicing plantains, seasoning them with spices, and frying them until golden brown. It is a classic street snack.
They also have many West African specialties, like fried plantains with black-eyed peas, melon seed soup (Egusi) with pounded yam (Fufu), and seafood Jollof rice. I previously ate Egusi with Fufu at Sina Restaurant in Yiwu, and to be honest, it was a bit hard to get used to. If you are trying West African food for the first time, I recommend starting with Jollof rice or fried rice.
5. Xi'an food: Xing Laosi Meatball Spicy Soup (rouwan hulatang).
I visited the Xing Laosi Meatball Spicy Soup shop at the Lianhang Food Court near the Lama Temple (Yonghegong) and had the meatball spicy soup with a cured beef sandwich (labanirou jiamo). Beijing
Many halal Henan-style spicy soup shops have opened in Beijing over the last two years, but this seems to be the only halal Shaanxi-style meatball spicy soup shop.
Their meatball spicy soup is not as peppery as the version in Xi'an, so it is easy for Beijing locals to enjoy, but I felt the starch thickener was a bit too heavy. I really liked the cured beef sandwich; it tastes almost the same as the ones I have had in the Muslim Quarter (fangshang) in Xi'an.
The Lianhang Food Court at the Lama Temple is a bit hard to find. Look for the elevator to the left of the Yonghe Shuting bookstore, go down to the basement, and turn left to find the shop. Liangtaoxuan Beef Noodles and a Uyghur pilaf (zhua fan) shop used to be here. Both were delicious, but unfortunately, they have both closed. I hope this place stays open.
6. Xinjiang cuisine: Jinying Meatball Soup
I have been eating at Jinying Meatball Soup for ten years and have always loved it. This was Suleiman's first time trying it.
We specifically asked for the non-spicy meatball soup. Suleiman really liked the meatballs and the meat. Of course, his favorite was the steamed layered bun (youtazi). He held onto it and wouldn't let go; he wanted to eat all six of them. I also think the steamed layered bun is incredibly fragrant—regular steamed rolls (huajuan) just can't compare!
Among all the dishes at Jinying Meatball Soup, my favorite is the beef bone (niubanggu). It is stewed until it is fragrant and tender. I used a small knife to cut it off, and Suleiman enjoyed it very much.
7. Xinjiang cuisine: Hotan Canteen Open-Air Night Market
The Hetian canteen now feels a bit like a small Xinjiang night market! Time to try all the snacks!
The thin-skinned steamed buns (baopi baozi) are wrapped and steamed to order. They are hot, fragrant, and come in both pumpkin and lamb fillings, both of which are very authentic.
I have always loved their yogurt shaved ice (suannai baobing), and I think theirs is the best in Beijing. This time I even saw rye flatbread (heimai nang) there, which is rare even in Urumqi! It has a very rich rye flavor.
Finally, they have added a new Yili specialty: handmade ice cream (awulali shougong bingqilin)! They have many flavors, so we chose almond, original, and honey. After trying them, I still think the original is the best. Now we can finally eat Yili handmade ice cream in Beijing.
8. Syrian Restaurant: BRBR SOLANA branch
We had a Syrian meal at BRBR in SOLANA. I called 40 minutes ahead to book a table because they are very popular on weekends.
We ordered half a chicken, lamb shank with yogurt (laban), salty yogurt drink (ayran), fava beans with tahini (ful medames), mixed buttered vegetables, sand-brewed coffee, and Damascus ice cream. The lamb shank with yogurt was quite tender and goes perfectly with rice. The salty yogurt drink didn't have much sourness and was mostly just salty. It didn't taste as good as what we drank in the Middle East, likely due to the source of the milk. The tahini in the fava beans was thicker than what we had in the Middle East, making it a bit dry to eat on its own. We asked for an Arabic flatbread (khubz), but since it was a busy weekend, the staff weren't very attentive and the bread never arrived. The roasted chicken, sand-brewed coffee, and Damascus ice cream were all as delicious as always.
9. Beijing fusion food: Gulou Chimianguan.
The fermented bean curd noodles (choudoufu mian) at the Gulou East Street branch of Gulou Chimianguan smell really strong, but they taste delicious! I finished the noodles in just a few bites, and even my burps smelled like fermented bean curd. Beijing locals really love this, and I recommend visitors give it a try too.
On Mondays, they have a buy-one-get-one-free deal on mini burgers, so I ordered a roasted lamb burger (shao yangrou bao). I usually eat roasted lamb noodles with Sichuan peppercorn sauce (shao yangrou huajiao cuan'er mian), but this was my first time having a roasted lamb burger. It is a great mix of Chinese and Western flavors, and it really feels like our own Beijing-style fast food, haha.
Their cold noodles (lengmian) are incredibly satisfying. Back when I was stuck at home during the pandemic, I survived by ordering these cold noodles for delivery.
This was my first time eating fried dough (youxiang) with a knife and fork. It is not the traditional leavened dough style from North China, but feels more like a hot-water dough version, and the added cheese makes it very fragrant.
10. Beijing cuisine: Xilaishun.
Whenever I am near Qianmen, Xilaishun is my go-to place to eat. I order the same things every time I visit Xilaishun: half a Ma Lianliang duck, stir-fried chicken cubes in bean sauce (jiangbao jiding), braised beef tendon (hongshao wogujin), bamboo fungus and jasmine soup (zhusun moli tang), fermented bean curd (ma doufu), stir-fried shrimp with green peas, luffa tips, and lotus leaf pancakes (heye bing). I personally think the Ma Lianliang duck tastes better than Beijing roast duck; it is fragrant, crispy, and delicious when wrapped in the pancakes.
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Halal Travel Guide: Huairou to the Coast - Farm Stays, Seaside Food and Muslim Travel
Reposted from the web
Summary: Huairou to the Coast - Farm Stays, Seaside Food and Muslim Travel is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, mosques, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Huairou, Coastal Travel, Muslim Travel.
I spent the weekend at a guesthouse at the foot of the mountains in Huairou, Beijing, with my friends (dostani). Yahya Dosti bought various grilled skewers (kaochuan) from Makai at Niujie, and we ate them fresh off the grill. The small courtyard is right next to Qinglong Gorge, and the environment is wonderful. The skewers were tender and fragrant, making for a very pleasant meal. Rain was forecast, but it only lasted for a short while before stopping. After the rain shower, Yahya Dosti picked a few dates from the yard for us to eat. The dates were crisp and sweet, instantly reminding me of life in the alleyways (hutong) when I was a child.
We brought some Ashura porridge (ashura zhou) with us.
On Saturday night, we went to the Shihu Cheng Resort near the Huanghuacheng Lakeside Great Wall in Huairou for dinner. This restaurant is run by Hui Muslims from Changying. They specialize in rainbow trout and also serve various home-style dishes. Rainbow trout need very clean water and only survive in flowing streams. You rarely find them in city restaurants, so you have to go into the mountains of Huairou to eat fresh fish.
We ordered grilled rainbow trout, braised rainbow trout (kuadun hongzunyu), jasmine buds (moliya), stewed small free-range chicken, green beans with steamed rolls (doujiao nian juanzi), brine-marinated firm tofu (lushui laodoufu), farm-style scrambled eggs, and cornmeal flatbreads (tiebingzi). Since we had a baby with us, we asked the owner to make the food mild and low-salt. It turned out perfect for our tastes. The grilled rainbow trout is very fresh, and the braised rainbow trout is full of flavor. Both ways of cooking it are worth trying. This was my first time eating jasmine buds, and the cold salad version was very refreshing. Their menu also lists tossed willow buds (ban liuya), but you can only get them when they are in season. The other dishes were also delicious. My favorite was the green beans with steamed rolls. The rolls were so fragrant after soaking up the juices from the stewed beans and meat.
However, their hygiene definitely cannot compare to the city. The high chair was especially greasy, and the spoons were not washed well. If you are a picky traveler, you should think twice before going.
The scenery near Shihucheng Resort is beautiful. The Huaijiu River is very clear, and the air is fresh. Their accommodation is very cheap and within walking distance of the Huanghuacheng Lakeside Great Wall. They provide a halal breakfast. When we went, we saw many older people staying there.
On Sunday morning, we drove directly from Huairou to Tianjin and had Western food at Haishiwan on Binjiang Road. We ordered tuna salad, avocado and shrimp salad, cheesy curry mashed potatoes, seafood paella, beef fried rice, seafood pizza, and chocolate brownies. Overall, their dish names and plating are quite fancy and great for photos, but the actual taste is average, similar to fast food in a shopping mall.
The best thing they have is probably the avocado salad, which is very healthy. The tuna salad tastes like a simple, home-style mixed vegetable dish. Both the seafood fried rice and beef fried rice are made with soy sauce, which feels like it suits the taste of people who enjoy Shandong cuisine (Lu cai). The seafood pizza is plated beautifully, but the crust underneath is very average, tasting just like pizza from a cheap fast-food shop. They also have all kinds of drinks with names I cannot understand, which are just sparkling water mixed with syrup. The foggy coffee looks great in photos, but the coffee itself is very average.
Come to Guanlanjiao Park in Tianjin on a Sunday evening to watch the sunset. Most of the Tianjin coastline faces east, which is good for watching the sunrise, but Guanlanjiao is one of the few areas perfect for watching the sunset. Guanlanjiao Park has large lawns and walking paths. Suleiman had a great time playing there, running around and climbing up and down with excitement, and he fell asleep right after watching the sunset.
After watching the sunset on Sunday evening, we went to Nuobona in the Binhai Taifeng 80 Food Plaza for Western food. It is definitely the best halal Western food I have ever had! The taste is far better than the places in downtown Tianjin.
Muyi Chinese restaurant, Nuobona Western restaurant, and the Western-style bakery on the first floor in Taifengli are all part of the Yisilaamu restaurant group, which opened in 1994. Their halal license number is Binhai 001. We had eaten at Muyi before. It is creative Chinese cuisine with many original dishes they invented, and the taste is fantastic. This time we tried their Western food, and we still could not stop praising it. The environment is also very nice, and they have a dedicated play area for children, which is very thoughtful.
We ordered the charcoal-grilled baby lobster and creamy lobster soup combo, French escargot, British fish and chips, baked potato skins, golden pillow durian pizza, lasagna, tiramisu, non-alcoholic mojito, dirty milk, and rose soda. We also ordered a kids' meal for Suleiman, which included pasta, pumpkin soup, french fries, grilled chicken wings, and fruit salad. The lobster was very tender, and the creamy lobster soup was rich and full of flavor. This was my first time eating baked snails (ju woniu). They had a nice, bouncy texture and were seasoned perfectly with all kinds of spices. This was my first time trying British-style fried fish, though it did not come with chips. Their version is very different from the common cod fish cakes back home. The fish meat is ground very finely, giving it a very moist texture.
Baked potatoes with skin are called jacket potatoes in the UK. They are baked with the skin on, cut in half, and topped with cheese, mayonnaise, and other sauces, then served with baked beans. Baked beans are also a classic part of a British breakfast.
I highly recommend their pizza. It is made fresh right in the most visible spot in the main hall, and the open kitchen makes it look very appetizing. The best part is that they use a traditional brick wood-fired oven, so the pizza naturally smells much better than the ones in typical shopping malls. The durian pizza we ordered had plenty of durian meat. Of course, they have many other flavors too, and I will definitely try the others next time.
Italian lasagna is also very rare in halal Western-style restaurants in Tianjin. Lasagna originated in medieval Italy, with the earliest records dating back to the 13th century. To make it, you layer wide pasta sheets with filling, top it with cheese, and bake it in the oven until the cheese melts and coats the pasta.
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Summary: Huairou to the Coast - Farm Stays, Seaside Food and Muslim Travel is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, mosques, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Huairou, Coastal Travel, Muslim Travel.
I spent the weekend at a guesthouse at the foot of the mountains in Huairou, Beijing, with my friends (dostani). Yahya Dosti bought various grilled skewers (kaochuan) from Makai at Niujie, and we ate them fresh off the grill. The small courtyard is right next to Qinglong Gorge, and the environment is wonderful. The skewers were tender and fragrant, making for a very pleasant meal. Rain was forecast, but it only lasted for a short while before stopping. After the rain shower, Yahya Dosti picked a few dates from the yard for us to eat. The dates were crisp and sweet, instantly reminding me of life in the alleyways (hutong) when I was a child.
We brought some Ashura porridge (ashura zhou) with us.
On Saturday night, we went to the Shihu Cheng Resort near the Huanghuacheng Lakeside Great Wall in Huairou for dinner. This restaurant is run by Hui Muslims from Changying. They specialize in rainbow trout and also serve various home-style dishes. Rainbow trout need very clean water and only survive in flowing streams. You rarely find them in city restaurants, so you have to go into the mountains of Huairou to eat fresh fish.
We ordered grilled rainbow trout, braised rainbow trout (kuadun hongzunyu), jasmine buds (moliya), stewed small free-range chicken, green beans with steamed rolls (doujiao nian juanzi), brine-marinated firm tofu (lushui laodoufu), farm-style scrambled eggs, and cornmeal flatbreads (tiebingzi). Since we had a baby with us, we asked the owner to make the food mild and low-salt. It turned out perfect for our tastes. The grilled rainbow trout is very fresh, and the braised rainbow trout is full of flavor. Both ways of cooking it are worth trying. This was my first time eating jasmine buds, and the cold salad version was very refreshing. Their menu also lists tossed willow buds (ban liuya), but you can only get them when they are in season. The other dishes were also delicious. My favorite was the green beans with steamed rolls. The rolls were so fragrant after soaking up the juices from the stewed beans and meat.
However, their hygiene definitely cannot compare to the city. The high chair was especially greasy, and the spoons were not washed well. If you are a picky traveler, you should think twice before going.
The scenery near Shihucheng Resort is beautiful. The Huaijiu River is very clear, and the air is fresh. Their accommodation is very cheap and within walking distance of the Huanghuacheng Lakeside Great Wall. They provide a halal breakfast. When we went, we saw many older people staying there.
On Sunday morning, we drove directly from Huairou to Tianjin and had Western food at Haishiwan on Binjiang Road. We ordered tuna salad, avocado and shrimp salad, cheesy curry mashed potatoes, seafood paella, beef fried rice, seafood pizza, and chocolate brownies. Overall, their dish names and plating are quite fancy and great for photos, but the actual taste is average, similar to fast food in a shopping mall.
The best thing they have is probably the avocado salad, which is very healthy. The tuna salad tastes like a simple, home-style mixed vegetable dish. Both the seafood fried rice and beef fried rice are made with soy sauce, which feels like it suits the taste of people who enjoy Shandong cuisine (Lu cai). The seafood pizza is plated beautifully, but the crust underneath is very average, tasting just like pizza from a cheap fast-food shop. They also have all kinds of drinks with names I cannot understand, which are just sparkling water mixed with syrup. The foggy coffee looks great in photos, but the coffee itself is very average.
Come to Guanlanjiao Park in Tianjin on a Sunday evening to watch the sunset. Most of the Tianjin coastline faces east, which is good for watching the sunrise, but Guanlanjiao is one of the few areas perfect for watching the sunset. Guanlanjiao Park has large lawns and walking paths. Suleiman had a great time playing there, running around and climbing up and down with excitement, and he fell asleep right after watching the sunset.
After watching the sunset on Sunday evening, we went to Nuobona in the Binhai Taifeng 80 Food Plaza for Western food. It is definitely the best halal Western food I have ever had! The taste is far better than the places in downtown Tianjin.
Muyi Chinese restaurant, Nuobona Western restaurant, and the Western-style bakery on the first floor in Taifengli are all part of the Yisilaamu restaurant group, which opened in 1994. Their halal license number is Binhai 001. We had eaten at Muyi before. It is creative Chinese cuisine with many original dishes they invented, and the taste is fantastic. This time we tried their Western food, and we still could not stop praising it. The environment is also very nice, and they have a dedicated play area for children, which is very thoughtful.
We ordered the charcoal-grilled baby lobster and creamy lobster soup combo, French escargot, British fish and chips, baked potato skins, golden pillow durian pizza, lasagna, tiramisu, non-alcoholic mojito, dirty milk, and rose soda. We also ordered a kids' meal for Suleiman, which included pasta, pumpkin soup, french fries, grilled chicken wings, and fruit salad. The lobster was very tender, and the creamy lobster soup was rich and full of flavor. This was my first time eating baked snails (ju woniu). They had a nice, bouncy texture and were seasoned perfectly with all kinds of spices. This was my first time trying British-style fried fish, though it did not come with chips. Their version is very different from the common cod fish cakes back home. The fish meat is ground very finely, giving it a very moist texture.
Baked potatoes with skin are called jacket potatoes in the UK. They are baked with the skin on, cut in half, and topped with cheese, mayonnaise, and other sauces, then served with baked beans. Baked beans are also a classic part of a British breakfast.
I highly recommend their pizza. It is made fresh right in the most visible spot in the main hall, and the open kitchen makes it look very appetizing. The best part is that they use a traditional brick wood-fired oven, so the pizza naturally smells much better than the ones in typical shopping malls. The durian pizza we ordered had plenty of durian meat. Of course, they have many other flavors too, and I will definitely try the others next time.
Italian lasagna is also very rare in halal Western-style restaurants in Tianjin. Lasagna originated in medieval Italy, with the earliest records dating back to the 13th century. To make it, you layer wide pasta sheets with filling, top it with cheese, and bake it in the oven until the cheese melts and coats the pasta.
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Halal Food Guide: Beijing New Restaurants - Turkish, Tunisian and Local Eats (Part 1)
Reposted from the web
Summary: Beijing New Restaurants - Turkish, Tunisian and Local Eats (Part 1) is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, mosques, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Beijing Halal Food, New Restaurants, Muslim Travel.
1. Sultan Turkish Restaurant, Beijing branch
The super delicious Turkish Mado breakfast has finally arrived in Beijing!
The famous Sultan Turkish Restaurant from Guangzhou and Yiwu recently opened in Beijing at the former location of the Kubei Turkish Restaurant in Zuojiazhuang. The owner of Sultan also brought the famous Turkish Mado ice cream shop to China, so after you enter, the staff will provide two menus: one for Sultan and one for Mado.
Mado comes from the city of Kahramanmarash in southeastern Turkey, and its biggest feature is that everything is made using goat milk from their hometown. Besides ice cream, their various cheeses are also a main specialty. Of course, there is also my favorite Turkish breakfast.
Friends who have been to Turkey probably know that Turkish breakfast is really hearty, nutritious, and healthy. I have eaten Mado breakfast at their Yiwu and Guangzhou locations before, and this time I finally got to have it in Beijing. Mado offers many types of breakfast. We ordered the meal for two, which starts at 10:30 and is available all day. The meal for two includes Turkish-style fried eggs with sausage (sucuk), Maras cheese (maras peyniri), feta cheese (beyaz peynir), yellow cheese platter, honey with clotted cream (kaymak), green olives, black olives, tomato pepper paste (acuka), tahini syrup (tahin pekmez), cherry jam, dried apricots, walnuts, feta cheese spring rolls (sigara boregi), a kiwi, orange, and banana platter, a cucumber and tomato platter, plus bread, flatbread (pide), and Turkish black tea. It is a very rich variety. Their flatbread (pide) is especially fluffy. It tastes great when you tear it open and spread different jams on it.
On my second visit to Sultan, I ordered two of Mado's single-person breakfasts, homemade lemonade, and ice cream. This place is likely the most authentic Turkish breakfast you can find in Beijing. The only disappointing part is that the jam is store-bought in jars. You would never find a place in Turkey that serves breakfast jam like that. Also, the single-person breakfast does not come with bread like the meal for two does; you have to buy the bread separately.
We also ate Sultan's Mardin Tava and Turkish pizza (lahmacun), and we ordered shrimp risotto for the kids. This restaurant is likely the only place in Beijing selling Mardin Tava, a dish made by baking lamb chops, tomatoes, and chili peppers together in a flat pan. Mardin is an ancient city in southeastern Turkey near the border with Iraq, and tava means flat pan. The ancient city of Mardin is home to Kurds, Arabs, and Assyrians, and its local customs are very different from those in central and western Turkey, making it well worth a visit.
I also want to introduce the word "Sultan," which we usually translate as "Sudan" in Chinese. In Arabic, the original meaning of Sultan is "strength, authority, and rule." The first ruler to call himself Sultan was Sultan Mahmud of the Ghaznavid dynasty (reigned 998-1030). Later, the Seljuk and Ottoman dynasties adopted the title, and it gradually became the title for a national ruler. Today, only the heads of state of two countries hold the title of Sultan: the Sultanate of Oman and the Sultanate of Brunei. Additionally, the heads of the Malaysian states of Johor, Kedah, Kelantan, Pahang, Perak, Selangor, and Terengganu, as well as the Special Region of Yogyakarta in Indonesia, are also called Sultans.
Finally, a reminder: the further inside you sit at Sultan Restaurant, the hotter it gets. If you are sensitive to heat, try to sit closer to the front door.
2. Carthage Tunisian Restaurant
A new Carthage Arabic restaurant opened on Dongzhimen Outer Street in Beijing during Ramadan, and we went there for an iftar buffet. This is a new iftar buffet opened by Adel, the head chef of La Medina, on the first floor breakfast area of the Atour X Hotel in Sanlitun Taikoo Li, still focusing on Tunisian flavors. Since it has not been open long, it is mostly frequented by foreign friends (dosti) from the nearby embassy district, so there is no need to wait in line.
Because Adel is in charge, the dishes are similar to La Medina, though there are slightly fewer options. Appetizers include chickpea dip (hummus), parsley salad (tabbouleh), and the Tunisian specialty grilled eggplant salad (mechouia). Besides grilled eggplant, the grilled eggplant salad (mechouia) contains tomatoes, chili peppers, onions, and olive oil, making it very healthy.
The main course features North African sausage (merguez), which is made with lamb and beef mixed with cumin, harissa sauce, chili, and various other spices; it dates back to 12th-century Andalusia and later spread throughout North Africa.
They also serve the classic North African Maghreb tomato and pepper poached egg dish, shakshouka. Shakshouka started in North Africa under Ottoman rule in the 16th century, when tomatoes and peppers were brought from the Americas and became part of the local diet.
They also have the Arab version of fried triangular pastries (sambousek), which is a classic snack for Muslims during Ramadan. Sambousek originated in Iran and entered the Arab diet after the 10th century, later spreading to India, China, Indonesia, and Africa. In some parts of eastern China, Hui Muslims still use the Persian name 'sanmosan'.
3.
Fang Zhongshan Hulatang Hujialou Branch
Fang Zhongshan came to Beijing in 2023 and started a trend for spicy pepper soup (hulatang). The Hujialou branch opened in early 2024, right on my commute.
On the first day Fang Zhongshan Hujialou opened after the Spring Festival, I went there for a mix of spicy pepper soup and tofu pudding (doufunao), plus a beef pie (niurouhe). The Hujialou branch is just a short walk from the Hujialou subway station on Line 6, so it is easy to get to. I arrived at 1:00 and did not have to wait in line; it is not as crowded as it was when it first opened.
I had heard that their spicy soup (hulatang) is very hot. I tried the mixed version, and it was quite spicy. I think some Beijingers who cannot handle spice might find it too much. However, they put plenty of beef and mushrooms inside, which gives it a rich texture. I have to praise their beef pastry (niurouhe). It is wrapped and fried to order, with a thin, crispy crust. It is a great experience. The filling is made of vermicelli and minced beef with a strong hint of Sichuan peppercorn, which should be very popular.
On my second visit, I ordered bean flour porridge (doumo), scallion pancake (congyoubing), and pan-fried buns (shuijianbao). There were more people than the day before, so I expect it will be packed again in a few days.
Their bean flour porridge (doumo) is more traditional than the spicy soup. It tastes just like the one I had on Shuncheng Street in Zhengzhou. It has vermicelli, peanuts, and other ingredients inside, and I think it suits the taste of Beijingers better. The scallion pancake (congyoubing) is very thin, freshly fried, and full of onion aroma with a great texture. Pan-fried buns (shuijianbao) are made in large batches, so you might not always get them fresh out of the pan, but they are still served hot. The filling is beef and vermicelli, with a strong, spicy kick from the seasonings.
The wall at the Fangzhongshan Hujialou branch displays the history of Fangzhongshan spicy soup (hulatang). It feels meaningful to share this cultural heritage.
Fangzhongshan’s grandfather, Fang Yinsheng, opened the Fang Family Soup Shop on Jiepai Street in Zhoukou, Henan, in 1922 and started selling spicy soup (hulatang).
After the Kuomintang caused the Yellow River to breach its banks in the 1938 Huayuankou incident, Henan suffered a severe disaster. Fang Yinsheng turned his soup shop into a relief station to help passing refugees.
After 1958, Fangzhongshan’s father, Fang Chaoyang, was hired as the general manager for three villages, where he oversaw food management for the people's commune.
In 1976, a restaurant for Hui Muslims was established in Xixiatin Town, Xihua County, Zhoukou, Henan, and Fang Chaoyang served as its first manager.
After the reform and opening-up policy, Fang Chaoyang took his son Fangzhongshan to Luohe to build their business, and in 1983, they opened the Fang Family Spicy Soup Shop in Luohe.
4. Zhang Dahui Spicy Soup (hulatang)
Following Fang Zhongshan, the Xiaoyao Town style Zhang Dahui Spicy Soup (hulatang) has also opened a shop in Beijing.
The Sanlitun branch is located in Baijiazhuang. The shop is small. In the morning, they sell spicy soup (hulatang), pan-fried buns (shuijianbao), sugar cakes (tanggao), vegetable pockets (caijiao), fried dough fritters (youmotou), and beef pies (niurouhe) until about 2:00 PM. In the evening, they sell braised noodles (huimian), lamb soup with sesame flatbread (yangtang shaobing), lamb bone marrow (yangbanggu), steamed vegetables (zhengcai), and crawfish (xiaolongxia). We arrived in the evening and ordered lamb braised noodles (yangrou huimian), steamed eggplant (zheng qiezi), lamb bone marrow (yangbanggu), and crawfish (xiaolongxia). I thought the lamb braised noodles (yangrou huimian) were quite tasty. The chef pulls the noodles fresh, and they are packed with ingredients and have a strong flavor. The steamed eggplant (zheng qiezi) is sweet, sour, and salty, seasoned with minced garlic and catnip (jingjie). It goes well with the braised noodles (huimian). The crawfish (xiaolongxia) were served cold, and I felt they were not spicy enough. The beef bone marrow (niubanggu) is braised in sauce, but I felt it was a bit too salty. Next time I have a chance, I will come in the morning to try their spicy soup (hulatang).
The founder of Zhang Dahui was the great-grandfather, Zhang Yongsui. In the early 20th century, Zhang Yongsui carried a pole to sell spicy soup (hulatang) at the Shahe River wharf in Xiaoyao Town, Xihua County, Zhoukou, Henan. Xiaoyao Town sits where the Shahe and Yinghe rivers meet. It has always been an important trade hub, and the area around the Shahe River wharf was especially busy. Starting in 1942, 14-year-old Zhang Quanfang began selling spicy soup (hulatang) with his father, Zhang Yongsui, at the crossroads in Xiaoyao Town. He sold it there for over thirty years. After the reform and opening up in 1979, the third-generation successor, Zhang Peigen, moved his whole family to Xihua County to open a shop. It was the first spicy soup (hulatang) business to move out of Xiaoyao Town. In the 1990s, the Zhang family opened Qingxiangyuan Old Zhang's Spicy Soup (hulatang) at the Round Corner Building in Xihua County Square. Later, the fourth-generation successor changed the name to Zhang Dahui Spicy Soup (hulatang), which is still open today.
5. Yu-style Xiaoyao Town Spicy Soup (hulatang)
There is finally a halal Xiaoyao Town spicy soup (hulatang) inside the Second Ring Road in Beijing!
A new shop called Yuwei Xiaoyao Town Spicy Soup opened on Dongsi North Street. For liquids, they have spicy soup (hulatang), tofu pudding (doufunao), a mix of both (liangchan), bean foam soup (doumo), soy milk (doujiang), eight-treasure porridge (babaozhou), and millet porridge (xiaomizhou). For solids, they have scallion oil pancakes (congyoubing), pan-fried buns (shuijianbao), beef pockets (niurouhe), fried dough strips (youmotou), beef buns (niuroubao), and vegetable buns (subao). I had the mix, a scallion oil pancake, and a pan-fried bun for breakfast. The spicy soup has beef slices, gluten, and wood ear mushrooms in it. It is not the super spicy version like Fang Zhongshan, but the traditional Xiaoyao Town flavor. Maybe because it was raining when they opened, the shop was not crowded. I missed out on the freshly made scallion oil pancakes and pan-fried buns, but the pan-fried buns were still hot and tasted great.
Yuwei Xiaoyao Town Spicy Soup officially opened on July 26, and many friends (dosti) came to visit. I had bean foam soup, fried dough strips, and pan-fried buns for breakfast. This time I caught the freshly fried dough strips, and they tasted very good.
In August, Yuwei Xiaoyao Town Spicy Soup added braised noodles (huimian) to the menu. It is a typical Zhengzhou nourishing braised noodle dish. The broth contains quail eggs, glass noodles (fensi), goji berries, and kelp. The chef pulls the noodles fresh to order. Their cold dishes are a bit pricey, and they are sold individually, unlike the braised noodle (huimian) shops in Henan where you can usually get a mix of dishes.
6. Qinyuanzhai Fresh Braised Duck Shop
I bought duck head, duck neck, duck web, duck gizzard, duck esophagus, tofu skin, kelp, and orchid-shaped tofu skewers at Qinyuanzhai Fresh Braised Duck Shop on Andingmen Inner Street. They have a good variety. The braised items are not very spicy, but they have a lingering heat, making them great for snacking.
7. Subuha Almond Tofu Jiaodaokou Branch
I went for a walk in the evening and visited the newly opened Subuha at Jiaodaokou, where I ordered almond tofu and coconut cheese. Their almond tofu is made like cheese, with both almond and milk flavors. It is quite delicious.
The second time I went, I had the matcha cheese, while Zainab had the lamb skewers and almond tofu. They also have 800 grams of sugar-free yogurt for 14.5 yuan, which feels like a good deal.
8. Shawarma City
I took Suleiman for a walk in Sanlitun in the evening. Down the stairs at Sanlitun SOHO, a new kebab wrap shop called Shawarma City just opened, and it has a real Middle Eastern street vibe. The owner is Palestinian. They specialize in beef wraps and chicken wraps, plus fried chicken, onion rings, and salty yogurt drink (ayran).
We had the beef wrap and ayran. The beef wrap was surprisingly delicious, and the meat was very tender. When we visited Turkey, the flatbread for the kebab wraps we bought on the street was always mass-produced and got hard once it cooled down. But their flatbread is made fresh to order. It is hot and crispy, and it tastes even better than the ones we bought in Turkey!
9. Tomato Casual Western Restaurant (Xihongshi) at Hopson One
After coming back from Badaling Wildlife Park, we went to Xihongshi Pizza and Pasta at Hopson One in Changping. The owner is a Hui Muslim from Xueying in Daxing, and he has opened several branches now.
We ordered the tomato beef pasta and cheese pizza. The portions were very small, and there wasn't much meat in the pasta, but the price was really cheap. I guess they focus on high volume.
The fries tasted good and were very fragrant. I think their best dish is the roast chicken. It is crispy on the outside and tender on the inside, which makes it very appetizing. They have another shop in the New Zhongguancun Shopping Center. Next time I pass by, I will definitely eat their roast chicken and fries again.
10. Ya'er Liji Courtyard
Last weekend, our family of three went to Ya'er Liji Courtyard by the Shayukou Reservoir in Huairou. The courtyard is a little over an hour from the city center by highway. If you take the bus, take the 924 express from outside Dongzhimen to the terminal station, Chawu Railway Station, and then transfer to the H27. However, the H27 runs very infrequently, and we just happened to catch the 11:50 bus on our way back.
Yar Liji Courtyard has two rooms with large beds and two rooms with large heated brick beds (kang). Saturday nights are busy, so you need to book ahead. The courtyard provides breakfast, which consists of corn, fried steamed bun slices (mantou pian), porridge, eggs, and pickled vegetables. For lunch and dinner, they serve stewed pots, hot pot meat (shuanrou), and barbecue, but there are very few stir-fried dishes.
Yar Liji Courtyard is right next to the Reservoir Mountain Bar Resort. The resort has all kinds of fitness equipment, small slides, and swings, which Suleiman loved. Behind the resort, you can climb up to the Shayukou Reservoir dam to see the view. The rocky path is a bit slippery on the way down, and Suleiman took a tumble. I guess that counts as his first memorable fall while hiking.
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Summary: Beijing New Restaurants - Turkish, Tunisian and Local Eats (Part 1) is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, mosques, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Beijing Halal Food, New Restaurants, Muslim Travel.
1. Sultan Turkish Restaurant, Beijing branch
The super delicious Turkish Mado breakfast has finally arrived in Beijing!
The famous Sultan Turkish Restaurant from Guangzhou and Yiwu recently opened in Beijing at the former location of the Kubei Turkish Restaurant in Zuojiazhuang. The owner of Sultan also brought the famous Turkish Mado ice cream shop to China, so after you enter, the staff will provide two menus: one for Sultan and one for Mado.
Mado comes from the city of Kahramanmarash in southeastern Turkey, and its biggest feature is that everything is made using goat milk from their hometown. Besides ice cream, their various cheeses are also a main specialty. Of course, there is also my favorite Turkish breakfast.
Friends who have been to Turkey probably know that Turkish breakfast is really hearty, nutritious, and healthy. I have eaten Mado breakfast at their Yiwu and Guangzhou locations before, and this time I finally got to have it in Beijing. Mado offers many types of breakfast. We ordered the meal for two, which starts at 10:30 and is available all day. The meal for two includes Turkish-style fried eggs with sausage (sucuk), Maras cheese (maras peyniri), feta cheese (beyaz peynir), yellow cheese platter, honey with clotted cream (kaymak), green olives, black olives, tomato pepper paste (acuka), tahini syrup (tahin pekmez), cherry jam, dried apricots, walnuts, feta cheese spring rolls (sigara boregi), a kiwi, orange, and banana platter, a cucumber and tomato platter, plus bread, flatbread (pide), and Turkish black tea. It is a very rich variety. Their flatbread (pide) is especially fluffy. It tastes great when you tear it open and spread different jams on it.
On my second visit to Sultan, I ordered two of Mado's single-person breakfasts, homemade lemonade, and ice cream. This place is likely the most authentic Turkish breakfast you can find in Beijing. The only disappointing part is that the jam is store-bought in jars. You would never find a place in Turkey that serves breakfast jam like that. Also, the single-person breakfast does not come with bread like the meal for two does; you have to buy the bread separately.
We also ate Sultan's Mardin Tava and Turkish pizza (lahmacun), and we ordered shrimp risotto for the kids. This restaurant is likely the only place in Beijing selling Mardin Tava, a dish made by baking lamb chops, tomatoes, and chili peppers together in a flat pan. Mardin is an ancient city in southeastern Turkey near the border with Iraq, and tava means flat pan. The ancient city of Mardin is home to Kurds, Arabs, and Assyrians, and its local customs are very different from those in central and western Turkey, making it well worth a visit.
I also want to introduce the word "Sultan," which we usually translate as "Sudan" in Chinese. In Arabic, the original meaning of Sultan is "strength, authority, and rule." The first ruler to call himself Sultan was Sultan Mahmud of the Ghaznavid dynasty (reigned 998-1030). Later, the Seljuk and Ottoman dynasties adopted the title, and it gradually became the title for a national ruler. Today, only the heads of state of two countries hold the title of Sultan: the Sultanate of Oman and the Sultanate of Brunei. Additionally, the heads of the Malaysian states of Johor, Kedah, Kelantan, Pahang, Perak, Selangor, and Terengganu, as well as the Special Region of Yogyakarta in Indonesia, are also called Sultans.
Finally, a reminder: the further inside you sit at Sultan Restaurant, the hotter it gets. If you are sensitive to heat, try to sit closer to the front door.
2. Carthage Tunisian Restaurant
A new Carthage Arabic restaurant opened on Dongzhimen Outer Street in Beijing during Ramadan, and we went there for an iftar buffet. This is a new iftar buffet opened by Adel, the head chef of La Medina, on the first floor breakfast area of the Atour X Hotel in Sanlitun Taikoo Li, still focusing on Tunisian flavors. Since it has not been open long, it is mostly frequented by foreign friends (dosti) from the nearby embassy district, so there is no need to wait in line.
Because Adel is in charge, the dishes are similar to La Medina, though there are slightly fewer options. Appetizers include chickpea dip (hummus), parsley salad (tabbouleh), and the Tunisian specialty grilled eggplant salad (mechouia). Besides grilled eggplant, the grilled eggplant salad (mechouia) contains tomatoes, chili peppers, onions, and olive oil, making it very healthy.
The main course features North African sausage (merguez), which is made with lamb and beef mixed with cumin, harissa sauce, chili, and various other spices; it dates back to 12th-century Andalusia and later spread throughout North Africa.
They also serve the classic North African Maghreb tomato and pepper poached egg dish, shakshouka. Shakshouka started in North Africa under Ottoman rule in the 16th century, when tomatoes and peppers were brought from the Americas and became part of the local diet.
They also have the Arab version of fried triangular pastries (sambousek), which is a classic snack for Muslims during Ramadan. Sambousek originated in Iran and entered the Arab diet after the 10th century, later spreading to India, China, Indonesia, and Africa. In some parts of eastern China, Hui Muslims still use the Persian name 'sanmosan'.
3.
Fang Zhongshan Hulatang Hujialou Branch
Fang Zhongshan came to Beijing in 2023 and started a trend for spicy pepper soup (hulatang). The Hujialou branch opened in early 2024, right on my commute.
On the first day Fang Zhongshan Hujialou opened after the Spring Festival, I went there for a mix of spicy pepper soup and tofu pudding (doufunao), plus a beef pie (niurouhe). The Hujialou branch is just a short walk from the Hujialou subway station on Line 6, so it is easy to get to. I arrived at 1:00 and did not have to wait in line; it is not as crowded as it was when it first opened.
I had heard that their spicy soup (hulatang) is very hot. I tried the mixed version, and it was quite spicy. I think some Beijingers who cannot handle spice might find it too much. However, they put plenty of beef and mushrooms inside, which gives it a rich texture. I have to praise their beef pastry (niurouhe). It is wrapped and fried to order, with a thin, crispy crust. It is a great experience. The filling is made of vermicelli and minced beef with a strong hint of Sichuan peppercorn, which should be very popular.
On my second visit, I ordered bean flour porridge (doumo), scallion pancake (congyoubing), and pan-fried buns (shuijianbao). There were more people than the day before, so I expect it will be packed again in a few days.
Their bean flour porridge (doumo) is more traditional than the spicy soup. It tastes just like the one I had on Shuncheng Street in Zhengzhou. It has vermicelli, peanuts, and other ingredients inside, and I think it suits the taste of Beijingers better. The scallion pancake (congyoubing) is very thin, freshly fried, and full of onion aroma with a great texture. Pan-fried buns (shuijianbao) are made in large batches, so you might not always get them fresh out of the pan, but they are still served hot. The filling is beef and vermicelli, with a strong, spicy kick from the seasonings.
The wall at the Fangzhongshan Hujialou branch displays the history of Fangzhongshan spicy soup (hulatang). It feels meaningful to share this cultural heritage.
Fangzhongshan’s grandfather, Fang Yinsheng, opened the Fang Family Soup Shop on Jiepai Street in Zhoukou, Henan, in 1922 and started selling spicy soup (hulatang).
After the Kuomintang caused the Yellow River to breach its banks in the 1938 Huayuankou incident, Henan suffered a severe disaster. Fang Yinsheng turned his soup shop into a relief station to help passing refugees.
After 1958, Fangzhongshan’s father, Fang Chaoyang, was hired as the general manager for three villages, where he oversaw food management for the people's commune.
In 1976, a restaurant for Hui Muslims was established in Xixiatin Town, Xihua County, Zhoukou, Henan, and Fang Chaoyang served as its first manager.
After the reform and opening-up policy, Fang Chaoyang took his son Fangzhongshan to Luohe to build their business, and in 1983, they opened the Fang Family Spicy Soup Shop in Luohe.
4. Zhang Dahui Spicy Soup (hulatang)
Following Fang Zhongshan, the Xiaoyao Town style Zhang Dahui Spicy Soup (hulatang) has also opened a shop in Beijing.
The Sanlitun branch is located in Baijiazhuang. The shop is small. In the morning, they sell spicy soup (hulatang), pan-fried buns (shuijianbao), sugar cakes (tanggao), vegetable pockets (caijiao), fried dough fritters (youmotou), and beef pies (niurouhe) until about 2:00 PM. In the evening, they sell braised noodles (huimian), lamb soup with sesame flatbread (yangtang shaobing), lamb bone marrow (yangbanggu), steamed vegetables (zhengcai), and crawfish (xiaolongxia). We arrived in the evening and ordered lamb braised noodles (yangrou huimian), steamed eggplant (zheng qiezi), lamb bone marrow (yangbanggu), and crawfish (xiaolongxia). I thought the lamb braised noodles (yangrou huimian) were quite tasty. The chef pulls the noodles fresh, and they are packed with ingredients and have a strong flavor. The steamed eggplant (zheng qiezi) is sweet, sour, and salty, seasoned with minced garlic and catnip (jingjie). It goes well with the braised noodles (huimian). The crawfish (xiaolongxia) were served cold, and I felt they were not spicy enough. The beef bone marrow (niubanggu) is braised in sauce, but I felt it was a bit too salty. Next time I have a chance, I will come in the morning to try their spicy soup (hulatang).
The founder of Zhang Dahui was the great-grandfather, Zhang Yongsui. In the early 20th century, Zhang Yongsui carried a pole to sell spicy soup (hulatang) at the Shahe River wharf in Xiaoyao Town, Xihua County, Zhoukou, Henan. Xiaoyao Town sits where the Shahe and Yinghe rivers meet. It has always been an important trade hub, and the area around the Shahe River wharf was especially busy. Starting in 1942, 14-year-old Zhang Quanfang began selling spicy soup (hulatang) with his father, Zhang Yongsui, at the crossroads in Xiaoyao Town. He sold it there for over thirty years. After the reform and opening up in 1979, the third-generation successor, Zhang Peigen, moved his whole family to Xihua County to open a shop. It was the first spicy soup (hulatang) business to move out of Xiaoyao Town. In the 1990s, the Zhang family opened Qingxiangyuan Old Zhang's Spicy Soup (hulatang) at the Round Corner Building in Xihua County Square. Later, the fourth-generation successor changed the name to Zhang Dahui Spicy Soup (hulatang), which is still open today.
5. Yu-style Xiaoyao Town Spicy Soup (hulatang)
There is finally a halal Xiaoyao Town spicy soup (hulatang) inside the Second Ring Road in Beijing!
A new shop called Yuwei Xiaoyao Town Spicy Soup opened on Dongsi North Street. For liquids, they have spicy soup (hulatang), tofu pudding (doufunao), a mix of both (liangchan), bean foam soup (doumo), soy milk (doujiang), eight-treasure porridge (babaozhou), and millet porridge (xiaomizhou). For solids, they have scallion oil pancakes (congyoubing), pan-fried buns (shuijianbao), beef pockets (niurouhe), fried dough strips (youmotou), beef buns (niuroubao), and vegetable buns (subao). I had the mix, a scallion oil pancake, and a pan-fried bun for breakfast. The spicy soup has beef slices, gluten, and wood ear mushrooms in it. It is not the super spicy version like Fang Zhongshan, but the traditional Xiaoyao Town flavor. Maybe because it was raining when they opened, the shop was not crowded. I missed out on the freshly made scallion oil pancakes and pan-fried buns, but the pan-fried buns were still hot and tasted great.
Yuwei Xiaoyao Town Spicy Soup officially opened on July 26, and many friends (dosti) came to visit. I had bean foam soup, fried dough strips, and pan-fried buns for breakfast. This time I caught the freshly fried dough strips, and they tasted very good.
In August, Yuwei Xiaoyao Town Spicy Soup added braised noodles (huimian) to the menu. It is a typical Zhengzhou nourishing braised noodle dish. The broth contains quail eggs, glass noodles (fensi), goji berries, and kelp. The chef pulls the noodles fresh to order. Their cold dishes are a bit pricey, and they are sold individually, unlike the braised noodle (huimian) shops in Henan where you can usually get a mix of dishes.
6. Qinyuanzhai Fresh Braised Duck Shop
I bought duck head, duck neck, duck web, duck gizzard, duck esophagus, tofu skin, kelp, and orchid-shaped tofu skewers at Qinyuanzhai Fresh Braised Duck Shop on Andingmen Inner Street. They have a good variety. The braised items are not very spicy, but they have a lingering heat, making them great for snacking.
7. Subuha Almond Tofu Jiaodaokou Branch
I went for a walk in the evening and visited the newly opened Subuha at Jiaodaokou, where I ordered almond tofu and coconut cheese. Their almond tofu is made like cheese, with both almond and milk flavors. It is quite delicious.
The second time I went, I had the matcha cheese, while Zainab had the lamb skewers and almond tofu. They also have 800 grams of sugar-free yogurt for 14.5 yuan, which feels like a good deal.
8. Shawarma City
I took Suleiman for a walk in Sanlitun in the evening. Down the stairs at Sanlitun SOHO, a new kebab wrap shop called Shawarma City just opened, and it has a real Middle Eastern street vibe. The owner is Palestinian. They specialize in beef wraps and chicken wraps, plus fried chicken, onion rings, and salty yogurt drink (ayran).
We had the beef wrap and ayran. The beef wrap was surprisingly delicious, and the meat was very tender. When we visited Turkey, the flatbread for the kebab wraps we bought on the street was always mass-produced and got hard once it cooled down. But their flatbread is made fresh to order. It is hot and crispy, and it tastes even better than the ones we bought in Turkey!
9. Tomato Casual Western Restaurant (Xihongshi) at Hopson One
After coming back from Badaling Wildlife Park, we went to Xihongshi Pizza and Pasta at Hopson One in Changping. The owner is a Hui Muslim from Xueying in Daxing, and he has opened several branches now.
We ordered the tomato beef pasta and cheese pizza. The portions were very small, and there wasn't much meat in the pasta, but the price was really cheap. I guess they focus on high volume.
The fries tasted good and were very fragrant. I think their best dish is the roast chicken. It is crispy on the outside and tender on the inside, which makes it very appetizing. They have another shop in the New Zhongguancun Shopping Center. Next time I pass by, I will definitely eat their roast chicken and fries again.
10. Ya'er Liji Courtyard
Last weekend, our family of three went to Ya'er Liji Courtyard by the Shayukou Reservoir in Huairou. The courtyard is a little over an hour from the city center by highway. If you take the bus, take the 924 express from outside Dongzhimen to the terminal station, Chawu Railway Station, and then transfer to the H27. However, the H27 runs very infrequently, and we just happened to catch the 11:50 bus on our way back.
Yar Liji Courtyard has two rooms with large beds and two rooms with large heated brick beds (kang). Saturday nights are busy, so you need to book ahead. The courtyard provides breakfast, which consists of corn, fried steamed bun slices (mantou pian), porridge, eggs, and pickled vegetables. For lunch and dinner, they serve stewed pots, hot pot meat (shuanrou), and barbecue, but there are very few stir-fried dishes.
Yar Liji Courtyard is right next to the Reservoir Mountain Bar Resort. The resort has all kinds of fitness equipment, small slides, and swings, which Suleiman loved. Behind the resort, you can climb up to the Shayukou Reservoir dam to see the view. The rocky path is a bit slippery on the way down, and Suleiman took a tumble. I guess that counts as his first memorable fall while hiking.
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Islamic History Guide: Quanzhou Chendai Mosque and Chendai Hui Muslim History Museum
Reposted from the web
Summary: Quanzhou Chendai Mosque and Chendai Hui Muslim History Museum is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, mosques, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Quanzhou, Chendai Mosque, Hui Muslims.
Quanzhou background summary:
The thousand-year-old Qingjing Mosque in Quanzhou.
Echoes of the faith: The Hui Muslim family temple of the Guo clan in Xingzhai, Quanzhou.
Stone carvings from the Islamic faith of the Song and Yuan dynasties at the Quanzhou Maritime Museum.
At noon, I took a taxi south of Quanzhou to Chendai Mosque, which is the other mosque in Quanzhou besides Qingjing Mosque.
According to family records, the first ancestor of the Chendai Ding clan, Ding Jin, whose courtesy name was Jiezhai, was originally from Suzhou and settled in Quanzhou for trade. The third ancestor, Ding Kui (1298-1379), moved with the fourth ancestor, Ding Shan (1343-1420), from Quanzhou city to Chendai, over ten kilometers south of the city.
The Chendai Ding clan maintained their Islamic faith for over two hundred years from the 13th to the 16th century. The tenth-generation descendant Ding Yanxia, born around 1517, recorded the Islamic customs he experienced during his childhood in great detail in his work, 'Zujiao Shuo' (Discourse on Ancestral Faith). By the mid-16th century, the religious practices of the Ding family in Chendai underwent major changes. According to the records of the 12th-generation descendant Ding Qing in the Jiyi Jiyan, Fenxi Gong (Ding Yi) was the first to enter official service, and he followed the rites of the scholar-officials to honor his ancestors without daring to violate the teachings of Islam. However, when three generations—Huai Gong (Ding Zishen), Wuting Gong (Ding Rijin), and Zhechu Gong (Ding Qijun)—all passed the imperial examinations, the family's reputation soared, and the practice of Islam nearly faded away. Starting with the 8th-generation Ding Yi, the Chendai Ding family began their path into officialdom by passing the imperial examinations. By the 10th generation, 20 family members had become scholars. These men followed Confucian ethics and social norms in everything they did, which sped up the disappearance of their religious traditions.
It was not until the early 20th century, nearly 400 years later, that the religious life of the Chendai Ding family began to revive. In the early 1920s, the famous Hui Muslim Tang Kesan served as the director of the Xiamen Customs. He recommended his fellow townsman Zhang Guangyu to lead religious affairs in the Quanzhou area. After Imam Zhang Guangyu arrived in Quanzhou, he worked diligently on religious matters, and the religious life in Chendai began to reappear. In 1939, Chendai established the Chenjiang Branch of the China Islamic National Salvation Association. Some members of the Chendai Ding family went to the Qingjing Mosque in Quanzhou for their weekly Friday prayer (jumu'ah). Later, they converted the Wenchang Shrine in the Sijing village into a mosque and hired Imam Tie from Quanzhou to lead their religious services. Between 1937 and 1944, the Chengda Normal School moved south to Guilin. Its founders, Tang Kesan and Imam Ma Songting, accepted 17 young men from the Ding family of Chendai to study there.
In the late 1950s, religious activities in Chendai were forced to stop. Ding Jinshun, a graduate of Chengda Normal School, was criticized and struggled because he mentioned in class that he was a Hui Muslim. In 1983, Ding Jinshun and Ding Jinhe attended the founding meeting of the Fujian Islamic Association. After that, Chengda Normal School graduates Ding Jinshun, Ding Jinhe, Ding Jinke, Ding Jinhong, and over twenty other people dedicated to the faith formed the Chendai Islamic Association Group and began to restore religious life. They borrowed the second-floor meeting room of the Chendai Hui Affairs Committee and the back hall of the Ding Family Ancestral Hall to hold Friday prayers (Jumu'ah), with Ding Jinshun serving as the imam. During the two Eids (Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha), they invited classmates from Chengda Normal School in Guilin and an imam from Jiaxing, Zhejiang, to lead the services.
After the Chendai Islamic Association Group was established, they began preparing to build the Chendai Mosque. They sent out a letter to Muslims across the country, but only a few mosques in Ankang, Shaanxi, and Yunnan sent a few hundred yuan in funds. After this, former classmates from Yuanchengda Normal School in Hong Kong sent the Letter to Ding Clan Relatives to Ding family members in Hong Kong, Taiwan, and overseas. They received 70,000 yuan in donations from the Five Halal Surnames Association (Jin, Ding, Ma, Bai, and Guo, all originating from Hui Muslims in Quanzhou) based in Hong Kong, Taiwan, Singapore, and the Philippines.
Chendai Mosque was built in 1991 and officially opened in 1993, when the Jinjiang Islamic Association was also established. The Ding family of Chendai hired Imam Ma Zhiwei from Inner Mongolia as their first religious leader, while Ding Jinke and Ding Jinshun served as the first directors of the mosque management committee and the Islamic Association, respectively. After the 1990s, the Chendai Ding family sent nearly 60 young people to study religion at home and abroad, with some attending Arabic language schools in Inner Mongolia.
Inside the courtyard of Chendai Mosque stands a Tree of Friendship planted in 1991 by the UNESCO Maritime Silk Road expedition team and the then-ambassadors to China from Saudi Arabia, Qatar, and Bahrain. It is now lush and green.
The Chendai Hui Muslim History Museum is located inside the Ding Family Ancestral Hall, and you can enter it directly from the courtyard of Chendai Mosque. The Ding Family Ancestral Hall was first built in the early 15th century. It was destroyed during the Wokou pirate raids in 1561 (the 40th year of the Jiajing reign). It was soon rebuilt under the leadership of Ding Yi and Ding Zishen, expanded again by Ding Rijin in 1599 (the 27th year of the Wanli reign), and renovated several times during the Xianfeng and Guangxu periods. The Chendai Hui Muslim History Museum opened inside the Ding Family Ancestral Hall in 1984 to display the cultural heritage of the Chendai Ding Hui Muslims.
The Chendai Hui Muslims History Museum is usually closed. Just call Uncle Ding, the caretaker, using the number on the wall by the door. He will come over to open it for you, and admission is free.
Inside the museum, you can see plaques for the Chendai Hui Muslims History Museum and the Chendai Ten Thousand Dings, both inscribed by Yang Jingren, who served as the head of the United Front Work Department and the director of the State Ethnic Affairs Commission. Next to the plaques, there are beautiful wood carvings of Kufic script, which is a style of Arabic calligraphy.
The auspicious bird symbol of the Chendai Ding family reminds people of the Lion of Ali emblem found on walls in Shia communities in Bangkok. These are all symbols of ethnic identity.
The most important artifact in the Chendai Hui Muslims History Museum is the tombstone of Ding Jiezhai, the ancestor of the Chendai Ding family. The front of the tombstone is inscribed with 'Erected in the winter of the fourth year of the Taiding era (1327), Tomb of Ding Jiezhai of the Great Yuan,' and the back says 'Buried at the original site of Lingtang Mountain in Dongtangtou.' Wu Wenliang discovered the Ding Jiezhai tombstone in 1940 while digging at the foundation of the East Gate in Quanzhou. In 2003, his children donated it to the Chendai Hui Muslims History Museum, where it is kept today.
According to the Ding family genealogy, the Ren'an Fujun Biography, 'Master Jiezhai came from Suzhou to trade in Minquan and chose to settle in Quanzhou city.' The inscription mentioning Dongtangtou Lingtang Mountain refers to the Lingshan Sacred Tomb, which has been the burial site for the Ding family of Chendai since the Yuan Dynasty.
Various stone carvings on display at the Chendai Hui Muslims History Museum.
Famous figures from the Ding family of Chendai introduced inside the Chendai Hui Muslims History Museum.
Ding Gongchen (1800-1875) was a mechanical engineering expert in the late Qing Dynasty. When he was young, he traveled abroad for business to places like the Philippines, Iran, and Arabia, where he gathered a lot of knowledge about Western machinery. After Ding Gongchen returned to China in 1840, the Opium War broke out. Based on his research into Western firearms, he wrote the book Illustrated Explanation of Artillery (Yanpao Tushuo) and tested cast cannons in Guangdong, which became the most advanced artillery in the Qing Dynasty at that time. After the war, Ding Gongchen revised his book into the Essentials of Illustrated Explanation of Artillery (Yanpao Tushuo Jiyao). The attached section, Illustrated Explanation of Western Steam-Powered Vehicles and Ships, was the first book written by a Chinese author about steam engines, trains, and steamships. In 1850, Ding Gongchen successfully developed a modern large rocket made from a metal rocket tube in Guilin, marking the beginning of modern rocket research in China.
entrepreneurs from the Ding family of Chendai include Anta Group Chairman Ding Shizhong and Vice Chairman Ding Shijia, Xtep Group founder Ding Jinzhao and President Ding Shuibo, 361° Chairman Ding Wuhao, and Silan Group Chairman Ding Zongyin.
The plaques and ancestral spirit tablets inside the Chendai Hui Muslims History Museum.
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Summary: Quanzhou Chendai Mosque and Chendai Hui Muslim History Museum is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, mosques, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Quanzhou, Chendai Mosque, Hui Muslims.
Quanzhou background summary:
The thousand-year-old Qingjing Mosque in Quanzhou.
Echoes of the faith: The Hui Muslim family temple of the Guo clan in Xingzhai, Quanzhou.
Stone carvings from the Islamic faith of the Song and Yuan dynasties at the Quanzhou Maritime Museum.
At noon, I took a taxi south of Quanzhou to Chendai Mosque, which is the other mosque in Quanzhou besides Qingjing Mosque.
According to family records, the first ancestor of the Chendai Ding clan, Ding Jin, whose courtesy name was Jiezhai, was originally from Suzhou and settled in Quanzhou for trade. The third ancestor, Ding Kui (1298-1379), moved with the fourth ancestor, Ding Shan (1343-1420), from Quanzhou city to Chendai, over ten kilometers south of the city.
The Chendai Ding clan maintained their Islamic faith for over two hundred years from the 13th to the 16th century. The tenth-generation descendant Ding Yanxia, born around 1517, recorded the Islamic customs he experienced during his childhood in great detail in his work, 'Zujiao Shuo' (Discourse on Ancestral Faith). By the mid-16th century, the religious practices of the Ding family in Chendai underwent major changes. According to the records of the 12th-generation descendant Ding Qing in the Jiyi Jiyan, Fenxi Gong (Ding Yi) was the first to enter official service, and he followed the rites of the scholar-officials to honor his ancestors without daring to violate the teachings of Islam. However, when three generations—Huai Gong (Ding Zishen), Wuting Gong (Ding Rijin), and Zhechu Gong (Ding Qijun)—all passed the imperial examinations, the family's reputation soared, and the practice of Islam nearly faded away. Starting with the 8th-generation Ding Yi, the Chendai Ding family began their path into officialdom by passing the imperial examinations. By the 10th generation, 20 family members had become scholars. These men followed Confucian ethics and social norms in everything they did, which sped up the disappearance of their religious traditions.
It was not until the early 20th century, nearly 400 years later, that the religious life of the Chendai Ding family began to revive. In the early 1920s, the famous Hui Muslim Tang Kesan served as the director of the Xiamen Customs. He recommended his fellow townsman Zhang Guangyu to lead religious affairs in the Quanzhou area. After Imam Zhang Guangyu arrived in Quanzhou, he worked diligently on religious matters, and the religious life in Chendai began to reappear. In 1939, Chendai established the Chenjiang Branch of the China Islamic National Salvation Association. Some members of the Chendai Ding family went to the Qingjing Mosque in Quanzhou for their weekly Friday prayer (jumu'ah). Later, they converted the Wenchang Shrine in the Sijing village into a mosque and hired Imam Tie from Quanzhou to lead their religious services. Between 1937 and 1944, the Chengda Normal School moved south to Guilin. Its founders, Tang Kesan and Imam Ma Songting, accepted 17 young men from the Ding family of Chendai to study there.
In the late 1950s, religious activities in Chendai were forced to stop. Ding Jinshun, a graduate of Chengda Normal School, was criticized and struggled because he mentioned in class that he was a Hui Muslim. In 1983, Ding Jinshun and Ding Jinhe attended the founding meeting of the Fujian Islamic Association. After that, Chengda Normal School graduates Ding Jinshun, Ding Jinhe, Ding Jinke, Ding Jinhong, and over twenty other people dedicated to the faith formed the Chendai Islamic Association Group and began to restore religious life. They borrowed the second-floor meeting room of the Chendai Hui Affairs Committee and the back hall of the Ding Family Ancestral Hall to hold Friday prayers (Jumu'ah), with Ding Jinshun serving as the imam. During the two Eids (Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha), they invited classmates from Chengda Normal School in Guilin and an imam from Jiaxing, Zhejiang, to lead the services.
After the Chendai Islamic Association Group was established, they began preparing to build the Chendai Mosque. They sent out a letter to Muslims across the country, but only a few mosques in Ankang, Shaanxi, and Yunnan sent a few hundred yuan in funds. After this, former classmates from Yuanchengda Normal School in Hong Kong sent the Letter to Ding Clan Relatives to Ding family members in Hong Kong, Taiwan, and overseas. They received 70,000 yuan in donations from the Five Halal Surnames Association (Jin, Ding, Ma, Bai, and Guo, all originating from Hui Muslims in Quanzhou) based in Hong Kong, Taiwan, Singapore, and the Philippines.
Chendai Mosque was built in 1991 and officially opened in 1993, when the Jinjiang Islamic Association was also established. The Ding family of Chendai hired Imam Ma Zhiwei from Inner Mongolia as their first religious leader, while Ding Jinke and Ding Jinshun served as the first directors of the mosque management committee and the Islamic Association, respectively. After the 1990s, the Chendai Ding family sent nearly 60 young people to study religion at home and abroad, with some attending Arabic language schools in Inner Mongolia.
Inside the courtyard of Chendai Mosque stands a Tree of Friendship planted in 1991 by the UNESCO Maritime Silk Road expedition team and the then-ambassadors to China from Saudi Arabia, Qatar, and Bahrain. It is now lush and green.
The Chendai Hui Muslim History Museum is located inside the Ding Family Ancestral Hall, and you can enter it directly from the courtyard of Chendai Mosque. The Ding Family Ancestral Hall was first built in the early 15th century. It was destroyed during the Wokou pirate raids in 1561 (the 40th year of the Jiajing reign). It was soon rebuilt under the leadership of Ding Yi and Ding Zishen, expanded again by Ding Rijin in 1599 (the 27th year of the Wanli reign), and renovated several times during the Xianfeng and Guangxu periods. The Chendai Hui Muslim History Museum opened inside the Ding Family Ancestral Hall in 1984 to display the cultural heritage of the Chendai Ding Hui Muslims.
The Chendai Hui Muslims History Museum is usually closed. Just call Uncle Ding, the caretaker, using the number on the wall by the door. He will come over to open it for you, and admission is free.
Inside the museum, you can see plaques for the Chendai Hui Muslims History Museum and the Chendai Ten Thousand Dings, both inscribed by Yang Jingren, who served as the head of the United Front Work Department and the director of the State Ethnic Affairs Commission. Next to the plaques, there are beautiful wood carvings of Kufic script, which is a style of Arabic calligraphy.
The auspicious bird symbol of the Chendai Ding family reminds people of the Lion of Ali emblem found on walls in Shia communities in Bangkok. These are all symbols of ethnic identity.
The most important artifact in the Chendai Hui Muslims History Museum is the tombstone of Ding Jiezhai, the ancestor of the Chendai Ding family. The front of the tombstone is inscribed with 'Erected in the winter of the fourth year of the Taiding era (1327), Tomb of Ding Jiezhai of the Great Yuan,' and the back says 'Buried at the original site of Lingtang Mountain in Dongtangtou.' Wu Wenliang discovered the Ding Jiezhai tombstone in 1940 while digging at the foundation of the East Gate in Quanzhou. In 2003, his children donated it to the Chendai Hui Muslims History Museum, where it is kept today.
According to the Ding family genealogy, the Ren'an Fujun Biography, 'Master Jiezhai came from Suzhou to trade in Minquan and chose to settle in Quanzhou city.' The inscription mentioning Dongtangtou Lingtang Mountain refers to the Lingshan Sacred Tomb, which has been the burial site for the Ding family of Chendai since the Yuan Dynasty.
Various stone carvings on display at the Chendai Hui Muslims History Museum.
Famous figures from the Ding family of Chendai introduced inside the Chendai Hui Muslims History Museum.
Ding Gongchen (1800-1875) was a mechanical engineering expert in the late Qing Dynasty. When he was young, he traveled abroad for business to places like the Philippines, Iran, and Arabia, where he gathered a lot of knowledge about Western machinery. After Ding Gongchen returned to China in 1840, the Opium War broke out. Based on his research into Western firearms, he wrote the book Illustrated Explanation of Artillery (Yanpao Tushuo) and tested cast cannons in Guangdong, which became the most advanced artillery in the Qing Dynasty at that time. After the war, Ding Gongchen revised his book into the Essentials of Illustrated Explanation of Artillery (Yanpao Tushuo Jiyao). The attached section, Illustrated Explanation of Western Steam-Powered Vehicles and Ships, was the first book written by a Chinese author about steam engines, trains, and steamships. In 1850, Ding Gongchen successfully developed a modern large rocket made from a metal rocket tube in Guilin, marking the beginning of modern rocket research in China.
entrepreneurs from the Ding family of Chendai include Anta Group Chairman Ding Shizhong and Vice Chairman Ding Shijia, Xtep Group founder Ding Jinzhao and President Ding Shuibo, 361° Chairman Ding Wuhao, and Silan Group Chairman Ding Zongyin.
The plaques and ancestral spirit tablets inside the Chendai Hui Muslims History Museum.
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Muslim Culture Guide: Beijing Tongzhou Xiguan Mosque - Shenghui Gathering
Reposted from the web
Summary: Beijing Tongzhou Xiguan Mosque - Shenghui Gathering is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, mosques, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Tongzhou, Xiguan Mosque, Shenghui.
The month of Rabi' al-Awwal is halfway over, and today we went to the Xiguan Mosque in Tongzhou to attend the Mawlid celebration. In the morning, we first had meat porridge (rouzhou), then went into the prayer hall to complete the scripture reading and listen to the imam give a sermon (wa'z) about the life of the Prophet.
The 12th day of the third month of the Islamic calendar is believed to be the birthday of the Prophet. Around this time every year, Muslims all over the world hold events to commemorate the Prophet, known as Mawlid or Eid-e-Milad an-Nabi, which are called Shengji, Sheng-hui, or Shengdan in China.
Mawlid activities can be traced back to the time of the followers of the Prophet's companions (Tabi'un), though they were mostly private events in the early days. Large-scale commemorative events can be traced back to 12th-century Egypt during the Fatimid Caliphate. In 1207, Saladin's brother-in-law Gökböri first established Mawlid as a public holiday, which helped the celebration spread among Muslim communities. The Ottoman Empire declared Mawlid a legal holiday in 1588, calling it Mevlid Kandili, which means the candle festival of the Prophet's birthday.
After sitting down in the lower hall, we were served the traditional North China Hui Muslims' Eight Great Bowls (badawan): stewed meat, braised pork (kourou), crispy meat (songrou), meatballs, kelp, fried tofu puffs (doupao), radish, and lamb offal (yangza). There were also four stir-fried dishes: sautéed lamb liver, stir-fried shrimp, stir-fried diced chicken, and sesame lamb, followed by steamed fish to finish—it was a very rich meal!
Tongzhou Xiguan Mosque was first built in 1766 (the 31st year of the Qianlong reign). The original building was torn down in 1980, rebuilt and reopened for worship in 1999, and moved to its current location in 2012.
Sharing an article about the religious gathering I attended before:
Celebrating the Prophet's birthday (Sheng Hui) at Heying Mosque in Beijing
Spend the weekend in Beijing for the holy gathering (shenghui) Collapse Read »
Summary: Beijing Tongzhou Xiguan Mosque - Shenghui Gathering is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, mosques, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Tongzhou, Xiguan Mosque, Shenghui.
The month of Rabi' al-Awwal is halfway over, and today we went to the Xiguan Mosque in Tongzhou to attend the Mawlid celebration. In the morning, we first had meat porridge (rouzhou), then went into the prayer hall to complete the scripture reading and listen to the imam give a sermon (wa'z) about the life of the Prophet.
The 12th day of the third month of the Islamic calendar is believed to be the birthday of the Prophet. Around this time every year, Muslims all over the world hold events to commemorate the Prophet, known as Mawlid or Eid-e-Milad an-Nabi, which are called Shengji, Sheng-hui, or Shengdan in China.
Mawlid activities can be traced back to the time of the followers of the Prophet's companions (Tabi'un), though they were mostly private events in the early days. Large-scale commemorative events can be traced back to 12th-century Egypt during the Fatimid Caliphate. In 1207, Saladin's brother-in-law Gökböri first established Mawlid as a public holiday, which helped the celebration spread among Muslim communities. The Ottoman Empire declared Mawlid a legal holiday in 1588, calling it Mevlid Kandili, which means the candle festival of the Prophet's birthday.
After sitting down in the lower hall, we were served the traditional North China Hui Muslims' Eight Great Bowls (badawan): stewed meat, braised pork (kourou), crispy meat (songrou), meatballs, kelp, fried tofu puffs (doupao), radish, and lamb offal (yangza). There were also four stir-fried dishes: sautéed lamb liver, stir-fried shrimp, stir-fried diced chicken, and sesame lamb, followed by steamed fish to finish—it was a very rich meal!
Tongzhou Xiguan Mosque was first built in 1766 (the 31st year of the Qianlong reign). The original building was torn down in 1980, rebuilt and reopened for worship in 1999, and moved to its current location in 2012.
Sharing an article about the religious gathering I attended before:
Celebrating the Prophet's birthday (Sheng Hui) at Heying Mosque in Beijing
Spend the weekend in Beijing for the holy gathering (shenghui) Collapse Read »
Muslim Culture Guide: Beijing Heying Mosque - Shenghui Gathering and Community
Reposted from the web
Summary: Beijing Heying Mosque - Shenghui Gathering and Community is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, mosques, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Heying Mosque, Beijing Mosques, Shenghui.
The month of Mawlid has just begun, and mosques all over Beijing are starting to hold celebrations. Last weekend, we attended a celebration at Heying Mosque in Changping. We ate authentic mashed potato paste (yangyu jiaotuan), hand-held lamb ribs (shouba yangletiao), and starch noodle soup (fentang). It was a very blessed occasion. The chili sauce on the mashed potato paste was so fragrant that I couldn't help but pack some to take home. It adds great flavor when dipping steamed buns (momo) or eating clear-stewed meat.
At the celebration, I ate fried dough (youxiang). It was fluffier than the version from Northwest China, feeling like a fusion of Northwest and North China styles. The walnut trees at the mosque are in season right now. The walnuts are very fresh when you crack them open to eat.
Changes at Heying Mosque over the past year include a new bulletin board that introduces the life of Bo Hazhi Shaihai Baba. The north lecture hall has been renovated, making it more convenient for religious gatherings (gan'ermaili). A protection sign for ancient and famous trees has been set up. This place is not only a sacred site for the faith but also an important natural and cultural heritage site.
Further reading:
Spend the weekend in Beijing for the holy gathering (shenghui)
Visiting the tomb of the Western Region sage Bo Hazhi Collapse Read »
Summary: Beijing Heying Mosque - Shenghui Gathering and Community is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, mosques, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Heying Mosque, Beijing Mosques, Shenghui.
The month of Mawlid has just begun, and mosques all over Beijing are starting to hold celebrations. Last weekend, we attended a celebration at Heying Mosque in Changping. We ate authentic mashed potato paste (yangyu jiaotuan), hand-held lamb ribs (shouba yangletiao), and starch noodle soup (fentang). It was a very blessed occasion. The chili sauce on the mashed potato paste was so fragrant that I couldn't help but pack some to take home. It adds great flavor when dipping steamed buns (momo) or eating clear-stewed meat.
At the celebration, I ate fried dough (youxiang). It was fluffier than the version from Northwest China, feeling like a fusion of Northwest and North China styles. The walnut trees at the mosque are in season right now. The walnuts are very fresh when you crack them open to eat.
Changes at Heying Mosque over the past year include a new bulletin board that introduces the life of Bo Hazhi Shaihai Baba. The north lecture hall has been renovated, making it more convenient for religious gatherings (gan'ermaili). A protection sign for ancient and famous trees has been set up. This place is not only a sacred site for the faith but also an important natural and cultural heritage site.
Further reading:
Spend the weekend in Beijing for the holy gathering (shenghui)
Visiting the tomb of the Western Region sage Bo Hazhi Collapse Read »
Islamic Art Guide: Mosque Plaques and Couplets - 50 Pieces of Muslim Calligraphy
Reposted from the web
Summary: Mosque Plaques and Couplets - 50 Pieces of Muslim Calligraphy is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, mosques, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Mosque Plaques, Islamic Calligraphy, Muslim Heritage.
1. The 'Innate Wonderful Truth' (Xiantian Miaoli) plaque at Acheng Mosque in Harbin.
Commissioner of the Prefectural Audit Office, awarded the fourth-rank blue feather, candidate for the position of sub-prefect.
An auspicious day in the ninth lunar month of the Guihai year, the second year of the Tongzhi reign of the Great Qing Dynasty.
This plaque was found in 2006 while repairing the floor of the main hall at Acheng Mosque. Unfortunately, the top and bottom parts of the plaque are missing, so the name of the person who donated it is gone. During the Tongzhi reign, a Manchu Bordered White Banner official named De Kejing'a served as the official for the Alechuka region. It is guessed that he may have donated this plaque.
2. The 'Western Regions Sect Style' (Xiyu Zongfeng) plaque at Acheng Mosque in Harbin.
Deying, imperial appointee, former acting Jilin General, former Alechuka garrison commander, Heilongjiang General, appointed Jilin Deputy Lieutenant-General, awarded the peacock feather for military merit, promoted by one rank, and recorded once for merit.
An auspicious day in the sixth lunar month of the Gengwu year, the ninth year of the Tongzhi reign of the Great Qing Dynasty.
Deying was a member of the Mongol Bordered White Banner in Jilin. He became the deputy lieutenant-general of Acheng (Alechuka) in 1864. Later, he served as the military governor of Jilin and then Heilongjiang. He was highly respected by the people, who called him 'Justice De'.
3. The 'Jiaolong Yuzhou' plaque at the Acheng Mosque in Harbin.
Haguang Hejing, a hereditary cavalry captain and commander of the Jisheng Battalion, who held the rank of brigade general and was in charge of Jilin military affairs.
Erected in the second month of the fourth year of the Guangxu reign of the Qing Dynasty.
4. The 'Wangu Qingzhen' plaque at the Acheng Mosque in Harbin.
Gadai, a decorated deputy lieutenant-general appointed by the Emperor to guard Acheng (Alechuka) and Lalin.
Erected in the fourth month of the Wuxu year of the Guangxu reign.
Gadai was a member of the Manchu Plain White Banner. He became the deputy lieutenant-general of Acheng (Alechuka) in 1897. He served for one year, presented a plaque to the Acheng Mosque before leaving, and was then transferred to Jinzhou.
5. Acheng Mosque in Harbin: "Great Insight to be Gained"
Respectfully presented by Wang Hongnian, who held the rank of Jianren, served as the Quartermaster for the Deputy Commander of the Northeast Frontier Defense Force stationed in Jilin, and was the Deputy Director of the Jilin Army Clothing Factory, recipient of the Fourth Class Order of the Tiger.
An auspicious day in the sixth lunar month of the 18th year of the Republic of China.
Wang Hongnian was a Hui Muslim army general who served under Zhang Xueliang in the Northeast Frontier Defense Force in 1929. People say the day the plaque was delivered was a grand and lively event. An honor guard from the Jilin Third Normal School escorted it with loud music and drums, and Acheng County Magistrate Bai Hongkui also took part in the ceremony.
6. Acheng Mosque in Harbin:
Craftsmanship like the master builder Gongshu brings joy to this place, with the holy path kept in the heart for three years.
A name recorded in history books praises the halal faith, and after a hundred years, those who walk this ground remember the person.
This was donated by Sun Yulin, a carpenter from Wula Street in Jilin who helped build the mosque, when the Acheng Mosque was rebuilt and finished in 1900.
7. Shenyang South Mosque: "Ancient Teachings of Islam" (Guxun Qingzhen)
The sixth lunar month of the 15th year of the Qianlong reign.
Respectfully erected by Prince Heshuo Zhuang, Mianke.
8. Shenyang Xinmin Mosque: "Correct Yourself to Correct Others" (Zhengji Zhengren)
Respectfully erected on an auspicious day in the seventh lunar month of the 9th year of the Guangxu reign.
Liu Dianyuan, holding the rank of Blue Feather Guard and the position of First Captain.
9. Shenyang Xinmin Mosque: "The One and Only for All Eternity" (Wangu Duyi)
Zhang Delu, Wuxian General, decorated with peacock feathers, waiting for a post as a prefect in Zhili.
Ha Zhongguang, holding the rank of assistant general, decorated with peacock feathers, hereditary Enqiwei (a minor noble title), waiting for a post as a department magistrate in Zhili.
Ma Shaochun, holding the fifth-rank title, decorated with blue feathers, waiting for a post as a district magistrate.
The twelfth year of the Tongzhi reign, the year of Guiyou, in the autumn.
10. The plaque reading "Only Pure, Only One" at Xinmin Mosque in Shenyang.
Respectfully erected on an auspicious day in the seventh lunar month of the 9th year of the Guangxu reign.
Ding Chunxi, holding the rank of assistant general, serving as a guerrilla general, and honored with the title Zhangyong Baturu.
11. The plaque reading "Sincere Intentions and Respectful Heart" at Xinmin Mosque in Shenyang.
Zuo Baogui, Commander of the Fengtian Military Wing, leader of the central, front, and right battalions of infantry and cavalry, and nominated Admiral with the title Menkengse Baturu.
Respectfully erected by hand in the first ten days of the seventh lunar month in the ninth year of the Guangxu reign.
Zuo Baogui was a famous general and anti-Japanese hero in the late Qing Dynasty. He led troops stationed in Fengtian in 1875 (the first year of the Guangxu reign) and began commanding the Fengtian Army in 1880 (the fifth year of the Guangxu reign). Zuo Baogui was stationed in Fengtian for twenty years. During this time, he was devoted to his faith, valued public welfare and education, donated to build many mosques, established several charity schools and porridge kitchens, and wrote plaques for many mosques.
12. Kaiyuan Old City Mosque: 'Allah is One' (Zhenzhu Duyi).
Because the inscriptions are unclear, we welcome friends (dost) to leave comments with their interpretations.
13. Dalian Fuzhou Mosque: 'Return to Simplicity and Truth' (Huanpu Guizhen).
An auspicious day in the first month of winter in the Dingyou year of the Guangxu reign.
Respectfully erected by Wang Tingxiang, who holds the third-rank title, is permitted to wear the peacock feather, serves as the Censor of the Jiangnan Circuit, inspects the Ministry of Revenue, formerly served as the Provincial Education Commissioner of Shanxi, and is a compiler in the Hanlin Academy with a three-grade promotion.
14. Xinlitun Mosque in Jinzhou
Transforming people and things, he is the source of all transformation.
Giving life to heaven and earth, he is the source of all life.
15. Xinlitun Mosque in Jinzhou.
The light that gives life to heaven, earth, people, and all creatures; there is no other master for all living things.
From saints and sages to emperors and kings, all acknowledge the one supreme creator.
16. The Way of Heaven's Mandate at Beizhen Mosque in Jinzhou.
General Zuo Baogui of Wuwei from Fei County, Shandong, dedicated this to the Guangning County mosque.
Respectfully written by hand on a lucky day in the last month of the first year of the Guangxu reign of the Qing Dynasty.
This was a gift from the famous anti-Japanese general Zuo Baogui when he passed through Beizhen on his way to fight in the war in Korea.
17. The Ancient Islamic Teaching (Qingzhen Gujiao) plaque at Beizhen Mosque in Jinzhou.
A lucky day in the seventh month of the Renyin year during the Qianlong reign.
Respectfully erected by followers Yang Yuxi and Yang Yuzhen.
18. The Everlasting Golden Daylily (Jinxuan Yongmao) plaque at Beizhen Mosque in Jinzhou.
Erected by Xu Guangzhang, an official of Guangning County, Jinzhou Prefecture, who held a rank increased by ten levels and had twenty recorded merits.
Honorably bestowed upon Bai Yongfu, a low-ranking officer (waiwei) in the Guangning County anti-bandit patrol.
An auspicious day in the first ten days of the fourth lunar month (qinghe yue) in the Yi-Si year of the Daoguang reign.
19. "Sincere and Righteous Deed" at Beizhen Mosque in Jinzhou.
The ancient mosque was renovated in the first month of autumn in the 45th year of the Wanli reign.
Respectfully presented by the Northeast Islamic Association.
20. "Great Grace Worthy of Gratitude" at Beizhen Mosque in Jinzhou.
An auspicious day in the first ten days of the fourth lunar month (qinghe yue) in the Yi-Si year of the Daoguang reign.
Respectfully erected by Jin Qiyuan, a newly appointed low-ranking officer (waiwei) and lieutenant (bazong) of the Guangning County patrol camp.
21. Beizhen Mosque in Jinzhou, 'Universal Mercy for All Things'.
An auspicious day in the first ten days of the month, in the 60th year of the Qianlong reign (1795).
Respectfully erected by humble follower Yang Yuzhen and his son Jianming.
22. Beizhen Mosque in Jinzhou, 'Righteousness Harmonizes All People'.
Mr. Zhang, named Shengcai, courtesy name Juxing. A native of Beizhen. He was generous, righteous, and passionate about public service. Whenever there was something within our faith that needed to be supported or reformed, he was always the first to advocate for it and do his best to help. In recent years, our community affairs have not reached perfection, but they have moved toward a more civilized and brighter path. When we drink water, we think of the source, and Mr. Zhang truly deserves much of the credit for this. Unexpectedly, heaven did not spare him from tragedy, and on a certain day in a certain month of a certain year, he was killed in the line of duty for the sake of the nation. Beyond our deep grief, we feared his life's work would be forgotten, so we gathered together to erect a stone tablet to honor his name. We still feel a sense of regret, knowing this may not fully reflect his contributions. We are now carving a plaque to ensure his memory lasts, as a small way to show our gratitude.
Erected by all the members of the Beizhen County Mosque.
An auspicious day in the middle of the twelfth lunar month, in the ninth year of the Republic of China.
23. Longshengzhuang Mosque in Ulanqab, 'Respect the Great and Noble'
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Early May, the fourth year of the Republic of China
Koubei Mongolian Salt Bureau...
From the Qing Dynasty to the Republic of China, all salt produced in the salt lakes of the Inner Mongolian Plateau was called Mongolian salt (mengyan). In 1913, the Beiyang government used salt taxes as collateral to sign a 25 million pound sterling reorganization loan with a banking consortium from Britain, France, Germany, Russia, and Japan. The agreement required China to hire foreigners to help reorganize the salt tax. China then began salt administration reforms and established the Koubei Mongolian Salt Bureau. The main office was in Duolunnor, and a branch was also set up in Longshengzhuang, Fengzhen.
24. Longshengzhuang Mosque in Ulanqab, 'The Way Connects Heaven and Earth'
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Specially appointed candidate for the Fengzhen Magistrate's Office, holding a military merit rank.
The first ten days of the autumn month in the Xinyou year, the 11th year of the Xianfeng reign of the Great Qing Dynasty.
25. "Uphold Truth and Maintain Sincerity" (Shouzhen Cuncheng) at Longshengzhuang Mosque in Ulanqab.
Erected in the 734th year of the Genghis Khan era.
Prince De.
The 734th year of the Genghis Khan era is 1940. Prince Demchugdongrub was a Mongolian noble and the Prince of the Sunid Right Banner. He started the "Inner Mongolia High Autonomy Movement" at Bailingmiao in 1933. In 1939, he became the chairman of the puppet "Mongolian United Autonomous Government." This plaque was inscribed when Prince De took office as chairman.
26. Arabic script plaque at Longshengzhuang Mosque in Ulanqab.
Dedicated in the first ten days of the ninth lunar month, in the year of Jiyou, the first year of the Xuantong reign of the Great Qing Dynasty, by Gu Dan.
Respectfully presented by Hui Muslims Deng Risheng and Ma Jiansheng from Datong.
The Ma family of Hui Muslims in Datong originally came from Youwei, Shanxi. During the Ming Dynasty, they were a prominent military family. In the mid-Wanli period, the Ma Family Army, led by Ma Gui and his brothers and nephews, was famous for its combat skills. They earned great merit for defending Youwei for six months against Altan Khan. Since the Ming Dynasty, the Ma family has been a major Hui Muslim clan in Datong. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, they often helped renovate the Datong Mosque and served as imams. After the Qing Dynasty, when military garrisons became counties, the Ma family of Datong transitioned from military life to civilian life. They found success in business and government, and for a time, they were the actual managers of the Datong Mosque.
27. Arabic script plaque at Longshengzhuang Mosque in Ulanqab.
We welcome everyone to leave comments and add more information.
An auspicious day in the first month of summer, the 15th year of the Republic of China.
The third elder Zhang Zhenhai led the construction of the main hall, and this plaque was carved to commemorate its completion.
28. Longshengzhuang Mosque in Ulanqab, inscribed with "Its Honor Has No Equal."
An auspicious day in the first month of summer, the 15th year of the Republic of China.
Inscribed by Ma Fuxiang, Army General, Xiangwu General, holder of the Second Class Order, and Military Governor of Suiyuan.
29. Longshengzhuang Mosque in Ulanqab, inscribed with "Ancient Faith That Opened the Heavens."
An auspicious day in the first month of summer, the 15th year of the Republic of China.
Inscribed by Ma Fuxiang, Army General, Xiangwu General, holder of the Second Class Order, and Military Governor of Suiyuan.
30. Hohhot Great Mosque (Qingzhen Dasi)
An auspicious day in the sixth month of the 16th year of the Guangxu reign of the Great Qing Dynasty
31. Hohhot Great Mosque, 'Acknowledging the Oneness of Allah' (Renzhu Duyi)
13th year of the Republic of China
Inscribed by Ma Fuxiang of Longyou
32. Qinhuangdao Shanhaiguan Mosque, 'Transcending Through the Ages' (Chaoguan Wangu)
Imperial brush of Emperor Wuzong
12th year of the Zhengde reign of the Great Ming Dynasty
33. The "Light of Islam" (Qingzhen Guangming) plaque at Botou Mosque in Cangzhou.
Grand Guardian of the Heir Apparent and hereditary Duke Yansheng.
The fifth lunar month of the third year of the Tongzhi reign.
After 1966, Botou Mosque stopped its religious activities. The main prayer hall was used as a workshop by an embroidery factory, an oilcloth factory, a straw hat factory, and a sack thread factory. The ablution room (shuifang) was used by an agricultural production team as a machine processing workshop. The side gates on both sides of the main entrance, the charity school, the side halls, and the south lecture hall all collapsed. The spire of the Moon-Watching Tower (Wangyuelou) was smashed, its first-floor walls fell down, and the base walls of the main prayer hall also collapsed. Eighteen original plaques inscribed by figures like Ji Xiaolan and Zhang Zhidong were lost. Eventually, only the damaged "Light of Islam" (Qingzhen Guangming) plaque, inscribed in 1864 (the third year of the Tongzhi reign) by the 75th-generation Duke Yansheng, Kong Xiangke, was found. In 1982, a calligrapher repaired the damaged parts by imitating the original writing.
34. The "Heaven is Close at Hand" (Tiantang Zhichi) plaque at Shucun Mosque in Beijing.
The full moon of the mid-autumn season in the Guiyou year of the Tongzhi reign.
Fourth-rank imperial bodyguard with a sword, Li Peng.
35. Beijing Dewai Fayuan Mosque, 'All Things Return to the Truth'.
Ramadan in the Year of the Dragon.
Army General and Second-Class Medal recipient, Suiyuan Military Governor Ma Fuxiang.
Inscribed by Army General Ma Fuxiang in 1928. In the late 1920s, Ma Fuxiang was living in Beijing without an official post. He spent his time studying Islamic texts and donated money to help build schools for the Muslim community. In 1928, he helped organize the Beiping Muslim Middle School, which was later renamed Northwest Public School. He also donated over a dozen school buildings he had purchased behind the Dongsi Mosque to the Chengda Teachers' College.
36. Beijing Niujie Mosque, 'Imperial Edict'.
Imperial edict from the sixth month of the 33rd year of the Kangxi reign.
I have reviewed the great records of Han and Hui Muslims throughout history. From the beginning, the great path has been clear. There are seventy-two sects that claim to lead people to immortality or Buddhahood, but they actually lead people toward evil and heresy. I will not punish the past, but anyone who violates this again will be beheaded. Han officials hold positions, receive my salary, and attend court daily. Hui Muslims pray to Allah and honor the Prophet five times a day without receiving any salary from me, yet they know how to show gratitude. In this, the Han are not as good as the Hui. Let all provinces know: if officials or commoners use minor grievances to falsely report that Hui Muslims are plotting a rebellion, the responsible official shall be executed first and reported later. Hui Muslims everywhere must follow the pure faith (qingzhen) and not disobey this order or fail my grace. This shows my love for the path. Respect this and follow it.
Legend has it that in the third month of the 33rd year of the Kangxi reign, during Ramadan, Kangxi received a secret report from Li, the patrol censor of the southern city of Beijing, claiming that Hui Muslims in Niujie were gathering at night to plot a rebellion. Kangxi asked the Grand Councilors Niu Xi and Wang Xi, who lived near Niujie, but neither had heard of such a thing. Kangxi then took the two officials on an undercover visit. At night, they saw many people performing Tarawih prayers inside the brightly lit Niujie mosque, with no other activities, so he issued the imperial edict.
Additionally, the Niujie local gazetteer "Gangzhi," copied by Shen Fengyi during the Daoguang reign (presumably written during the Yongzheng reign), records that in 1694, the teacher at the Niujie mosque, Sayyid Ma Tengyun, was involved in a case of communicating with the enemy. It says that Galdan of the Dzungar Khanate sent two Hami Muslims to Beijing as spies, and Ma Tengyun of the Niujie mosque often hosted them for meals. Later, one of them was caught by the Lifanyuan (the Qing dynasty agency for border affairs) patrol, and he gave up Ma Tengyun. The Lifanyuan immediately arrested Ma Tengyun and Yin Liangxiang from the Jiaozihutong mosque, while the Bingmasi (the city guard) sent troops to seal off Niujie. The Lifanyuan submitted a report to the emperor asking to slaughter all Hui Muslims in the capital, but Kangxi rejected it. Kangxi ordered, "The Hui Muslims in the capital are also my children... just strictly arrest the spies, do not implicate the innocent." In the end, Ma Tengyun and Yin Liangxiang were released, and mosques across Beijing held scripture readings to give thanks. This event matches the timing and content of the imperial decree stele, and it is very likely the reason the decree was issued.
37. Beijing Xihuisi mosque "Qingzhen Wuer" (The only true faith).
The first day of the fourth lunar month in the first year of the Daoguang reign.
Respectfully presented by Cao Zhenyong, Grand Secretary of the Hall of Benevolence (Tiren Ge) from ancient Shexian.
Cao Zhenyong was a key official during the Jiaqing and Daoguang eras of the Qing Dynasty. In the 18th year of the Jiaqing reign, he was promoted to Grand Secretary of the Hall of Benevolence, managed the Ministry of Works, and was given the honorary title of Junior Guardian of the Heir Apparent. Between the 19th and 25th years of the Jiaqing reign, the Jiaqing Emperor visited the imperial tombs six times and went on the Mulan autumn hunt five times. As Prime Minister, Cao Zhenyong stayed behind to guard the capital.
In the first year of the Daoguang reign, Cao Zhenyong was promoted to Junior Tutor of the Heir Apparent and Grand Secretary of the Hall of Martial Valor (Wuying Dian). The Daoguang Emperor praised him, saying, "At the start of my personal rule, he was the first upright man to advance." "He is a trusted official in the most secret of places." "His learning is profound, and his advice is pure and precise." "He is diligent and cautious, and he is the first to handle imperial edicts."
38. The 'Wuta Guiyi' plaque at Hexiwu Mosque in Tianjin.
Erected on a lucky day in the fourth lunar month of the Jiyou year, the first year of the Xuantong reign of the Qing Dynasty.
Respectfully erected by Jin Yuqi, a third-rank official with a blue feather, serving as the garrison commander of the river defense left battalion and acting guard of the Weiwu Pass.
39. The 'Yi Zai Qingzhen' plaque at the North Mosque in Yangcun, Tianjin.
Respectfully honoring.
The late Mr. Ma, whose given name was Jun, lived to the age of eighty. He died after being kicked by livestock belonging to a person named Bian, and his final wish to his family was to accept this fate. He asked them to strictly follow the halal way and not let the incident cause trouble for anyone else. However, in our view, no one could hold back their tears; this is the act of a kind person. Alas, the Bian family enjoys peace, and our village also admires them, for it shows the true path of Islam. The way the Ma family follows these practices is something I hope both Hui Muslims and Han people will remember forever, as it is truly beneficial. We write this plaque to honor and praise them.
Respectfully inscribed in the second month of the year of Jiwei, the eighth year of the Republic of China.
40. The North Mosque (Beidasi) in Yangcun, Tianjin: 'Most Merciful and Most Just'.
Respectfully erected by Mu Changrong, the imperial-appointed and expectant Assistant Brigade General of Zhili, titled Guyong Baturu.
An auspicious day in the seventh month of the first year of the Tongzhi reign.
41. The Great Northern Mosque (Beidasi) in Yangcun, Tianjin, features the plaque 'Great is the Creative Power of Heaven' (Dazai Qianyuan).
A lucky day in the fifth month of the 13th year of the Republic of China.
Respectfully inscribed by Mu Wenshan, a military aide-de-camp awarded the Fifth Class Order of the Wenhu and the Grand Cordon of the Order of the Golden Grain.
42. The Jinjiayao Mosque in Tianjin features the plaque 'Reject Falsehood and Return to Truth' (Quwang Guizhen).
A lucky day in the first month of autumn in the ninth year of the Guangxu reign.
My late father Yiran followed the ancient teachings and strictly observed the halal way. Because some in our community were showing off and spreading strange ideas, he long wanted to clarify the true path for future generations. He passed away before he could fulfill this wish, so I have carefully recorded his instructions.
I wrote the holy practices on this plaque so that those who share our faith will see it and be reminded not to let any false thoughts enter their minds. If the ancient faith is not lost, this record can comfort the spirits of those who came before.
Respectfully written by Hei Yaozeng.
Republished by Hei Zhaorong and Hei Pengnian.
43. The Ancient Islamic Faith plaque at the North Mosque (Beidasi) in Tianmu, Tianjin.
An auspicious day in the autumn of the second year of the Xuantong reign (1910).
Respectfully presented by Xiao Liangtong, a military officer holding the rank of commander with the honor of wearing a blue feather, serving as the acting head of the Tianjin County garrison.
Calligraphy by Prince Su.
44. The Upholding the Past and Awaiting the Future plaque at the North Mosque (Beidasi) in Tianmu, Tianjin.
An auspicious day in the autumn of the ninth year of the Guangxu reign.
Respectfully erected by Hei Yaozeng, a selected county magistrate with the honorary rank of assistant regional commander.
Hei Zhaorong, a garrison commander (bazong) of the Ziya River patrol in Jinghai County, who holds the honorary fourth-rank title and the privilege of wearing a blue feather.
Reprinted by Hei Pengnian, a garrison commander (bazong) of the South Grand Canal battalion, who holds the honorary fifth-rank title and the privilege of wearing a blue feather.
45. The Ancient Islamic Teaching at the South Mosque (Nandasi) in Tianjin.
An auspicious day in the seventh month of the Gengyin year of the Guangxu reign of the Great Qing Dynasty.
Respectfully presented by Hei Zhaorong, a river battalion commander (qianzong) under the jurisdiction of the Tianjin Prefecture, who holds the honorary fourth-rank title and the privilege of wearing a blue feather.
46. The South Mosque (Nandasi) in Tianjin.
The many manifest the one, the hidden essence conceals the great grace, and the great transformation is completed.
Movement creates words, stillness returns to the truth, and the traveler on the path returns to the origin.
Written by Prince Li.
47. Tianjin South Mosque, 'Truth Without Falsehood'.
An auspicious day in the ninth month of the sixth year of the Guangxu reign.
Respectfully erected by Zuo Baogui, a nominated provincial commander-in-chief, leader of the Fengtian army's central-right cavalry and infantry battalions, and commander of the eight brigades of the Jiesheng cavalry, honored with the title Kengse Baturu.
48. Tianjin South Mosque, 'Transformation Originating from the Infinite'.
Respectfully written by Peng Yuwen, a court-appointed official with the rank of Zhongxian Dafu serving as the Tianjin Circuit Intendant of Zhili.
An auspicious day in the seventh lunar month of the bingwu year, the 26th year of the Daoguang reign.
Respectfully erected by Zhang Yunbiao and Zhang Guangrui from Tianjin, along with their sons Jindong and Jinbang.
49. Tianjin South Mosque (Nandasi).
The source of the most just, most great, and most high righteous path remains forever in the universe.
The mystery of the true mechanism, which has no scent, no sound, and no trace, silently operates throughout the world.
An auspicious day in the fifth lunar month of summer in the jisi year, the eighth year of the Tongzhi reign.
Respectfully presented by Li Jiqing, a member of the community from Zhangwu.
50. Tianjin South Mosque (Nandasi).
You come here to pray with a pure heart and few desires, attending the five daily namaz to find peace.
This path is not too deep or mysterious to understand; cast aside vanity, seek the truth, and a single moment of repentance is enough.
Mid-autumn, the Jia-chen year of the Guangxu reign.
Written by Wang Lantai of Huichuan.
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Summary: Mosque Plaques and Couplets - 50 Pieces of Muslim Calligraphy is presented as a clear English travel account for readers interested in Muslim life, halal food, mosques, and local history. The article keeps the original names, food details, photographs, and cultural context while focusing on Mosque Plaques, Islamic Calligraphy, Muslim Heritage.
1. The 'Innate Wonderful Truth' (Xiantian Miaoli) plaque at Acheng Mosque in Harbin.
Commissioner of the Prefectural Audit Office, awarded the fourth-rank blue feather, candidate for the position of sub-prefect.
An auspicious day in the ninth lunar month of the Guihai year, the second year of the Tongzhi reign of the Great Qing Dynasty.
This plaque was found in 2006 while repairing the floor of the main hall at Acheng Mosque. Unfortunately, the top and bottom parts of the plaque are missing, so the name of the person who donated it is gone. During the Tongzhi reign, a Manchu Bordered White Banner official named De Kejing'a served as the official for the Alechuka region. It is guessed that he may have donated this plaque.
2. The 'Western Regions Sect Style' (Xiyu Zongfeng) plaque at Acheng Mosque in Harbin.
Deying, imperial appointee, former acting Jilin General, former Alechuka garrison commander, Heilongjiang General, appointed Jilin Deputy Lieutenant-General, awarded the peacock feather for military merit, promoted by one rank, and recorded once for merit.
An auspicious day in the sixth lunar month of the Gengwu year, the ninth year of the Tongzhi reign of the Great Qing Dynasty.
Deying was a member of the Mongol Bordered White Banner in Jilin. He became the deputy lieutenant-general of Acheng (Alechuka) in 1864. Later, he served as the military governor of Jilin and then Heilongjiang. He was highly respected by the people, who called him 'Justice De'.
3. The 'Jiaolong Yuzhou' plaque at the Acheng Mosque in Harbin.
Haguang Hejing, a hereditary cavalry captain and commander of the Jisheng Battalion, who held the rank of brigade general and was in charge of Jilin military affairs.
Erected in the second month of the fourth year of the Guangxu reign of the Qing Dynasty.
4. The 'Wangu Qingzhen' plaque at the Acheng Mosque in Harbin.
Gadai, a decorated deputy lieutenant-general appointed by the Emperor to guard Acheng (Alechuka) and Lalin.
Erected in the fourth month of the Wuxu year of the Guangxu reign.
Gadai was a member of the Manchu Plain White Banner. He became the deputy lieutenant-general of Acheng (Alechuka) in 1897. He served for one year, presented a plaque to the Acheng Mosque before leaving, and was then transferred to Jinzhou.
5. Acheng Mosque in Harbin: "Great Insight to be Gained"
Respectfully presented by Wang Hongnian, who held the rank of Jianren, served as the Quartermaster for the Deputy Commander of the Northeast Frontier Defense Force stationed in Jilin, and was the Deputy Director of the Jilin Army Clothing Factory, recipient of the Fourth Class Order of the Tiger.
An auspicious day in the sixth lunar month of the 18th year of the Republic of China.
Wang Hongnian was a Hui Muslim army general who served under Zhang Xueliang in the Northeast Frontier Defense Force in 1929. People say the day the plaque was delivered was a grand and lively event. An honor guard from the Jilin Third Normal School escorted it with loud music and drums, and Acheng County Magistrate Bai Hongkui also took part in the ceremony.
6. Acheng Mosque in Harbin:
Craftsmanship like the master builder Gongshu brings joy to this place, with the holy path kept in the heart for three years.
A name recorded in history books praises the halal faith, and after a hundred years, those who walk this ground remember the person.
This was donated by Sun Yulin, a carpenter from Wula Street in Jilin who helped build the mosque, when the Acheng Mosque was rebuilt and finished in 1900.
7. Shenyang South Mosque: "Ancient Teachings of Islam" (Guxun Qingzhen)
The sixth lunar month of the 15th year of the Qianlong reign.
Respectfully erected by Prince Heshuo Zhuang, Mianke.
8. Shenyang Xinmin Mosque: "Correct Yourself to Correct Others" (Zhengji Zhengren)
Respectfully erected on an auspicious day in the seventh lunar month of the 9th year of the Guangxu reign.
Liu Dianyuan, holding the rank of Blue Feather Guard and the position of First Captain.
9. Shenyang Xinmin Mosque: "The One and Only for All Eternity" (Wangu Duyi)
Zhang Delu, Wuxian General, decorated with peacock feathers, waiting for a post as a prefect in Zhili.
Ha Zhongguang, holding the rank of assistant general, decorated with peacock feathers, hereditary Enqiwei (a minor noble title), waiting for a post as a department magistrate in Zhili.
Ma Shaochun, holding the fifth-rank title, decorated with blue feathers, waiting for a post as a district magistrate.
The twelfth year of the Tongzhi reign, the year of Guiyou, in the autumn.
10. The plaque reading "Only Pure, Only One" at Xinmin Mosque in Shenyang.
Respectfully erected on an auspicious day in the seventh lunar month of the 9th year of the Guangxu reign.
Ding Chunxi, holding the rank of assistant general, serving as a guerrilla general, and honored with the title Zhangyong Baturu.
11. The plaque reading "Sincere Intentions and Respectful Heart" at Xinmin Mosque in Shenyang.
Zuo Baogui, Commander of the Fengtian Military Wing, leader of the central, front, and right battalions of infantry and cavalry, and nominated Admiral with the title Menkengse Baturu.
Respectfully erected by hand in the first ten days of the seventh lunar month in the ninth year of the Guangxu reign.
Zuo Baogui was a famous general and anti-Japanese hero in the late Qing Dynasty. He led troops stationed in Fengtian in 1875 (the first year of the Guangxu reign) and began commanding the Fengtian Army in 1880 (the fifth year of the Guangxu reign). Zuo Baogui was stationed in Fengtian for twenty years. During this time, he was devoted to his faith, valued public welfare and education, donated to build many mosques, established several charity schools and porridge kitchens, and wrote plaques for many mosques.
12. Kaiyuan Old City Mosque: 'Allah is One' (Zhenzhu Duyi).
Because the inscriptions are unclear, we welcome friends (dost) to leave comments with their interpretations.
13. Dalian Fuzhou Mosque: 'Return to Simplicity and Truth' (Huanpu Guizhen).
An auspicious day in the first month of winter in the Dingyou year of the Guangxu reign.
Respectfully erected by Wang Tingxiang, who holds the third-rank title, is permitted to wear the peacock feather, serves as the Censor of the Jiangnan Circuit, inspects the Ministry of Revenue, formerly served as the Provincial Education Commissioner of Shanxi, and is a compiler in the Hanlin Academy with a three-grade promotion.
14. Xinlitun Mosque in Jinzhou
Transforming people and things, he is the source of all transformation.
Giving life to heaven and earth, he is the source of all life.
15. Xinlitun Mosque in Jinzhou.
The light that gives life to heaven, earth, people, and all creatures; there is no other master for all living things.
From saints and sages to emperors and kings, all acknowledge the one supreme creator.
16. The Way of Heaven's Mandate at Beizhen Mosque in Jinzhou.
General Zuo Baogui of Wuwei from Fei County, Shandong, dedicated this to the Guangning County mosque.
Respectfully written by hand on a lucky day in the last month of the first year of the Guangxu reign of the Qing Dynasty.
This was a gift from the famous anti-Japanese general Zuo Baogui when he passed through Beizhen on his way to fight in the war in Korea.
17. The Ancient Islamic Teaching (Qingzhen Gujiao) plaque at Beizhen Mosque in Jinzhou.
A lucky day in the seventh month of the Renyin year during the Qianlong reign.
Respectfully erected by followers Yang Yuxi and Yang Yuzhen.
18. The Everlasting Golden Daylily (Jinxuan Yongmao) plaque at Beizhen Mosque in Jinzhou.
Erected by Xu Guangzhang, an official of Guangning County, Jinzhou Prefecture, who held a rank increased by ten levels and had twenty recorded merits.
Honorably bestowed upon Bai Yongfu, a low-ranking officer (waiwei) in the Guangning County anti-bandit patrol.
An auspicious day in the first ten days of the fourth lunar month (qinghe yue) in the Yi-Si year of the Daoguang reign.
19. "Sincere and Righteous Deed" at Beizhen Mosque in Jinzhou.
The ancient mosque was renovated in the first month of autumn in the 45th year of the Wanli reign.
Respectfully presented by the Northeast Islamic Association.
20. "Great Grace Worthy of Gratitude" at Beizhen Mosque in Jinzhou.
An auspicious day in the first ten days of the fourth lunar month (qinghe yue) in the Yi-Si year of the Daoguang reign.
Respectfully erected by Jin Qiyuan, a newly appointed low-ranking officer (waiwei) and lieutenant (bazong) of the Guangning County patrol camp.
21. Beizhen Mosque in Jinzhou, 'Universal Mercy for All Things'.
An auspicious day in the first ten days of the month, in the 60th year of the Qianlong reign (1795).
Respectfully erected by humble follower Yang Yuzhen and his son Jianming.
22. Beizhen Mosque in Jinzhou, 'Righteousness Harmonizes All People'.
Mr. Zhang, named Shengcai, courtesy name Juxing. A native of Beizhen. He was generous, righteous, and passionate about public service. Whenever there was something within our faith that needed to be supported or reformed, he was always the first to advocate for it and do his best to help. In recent years, our community affairs have not reached perfection, but they have moved toward a more civilized and brighter path. When we drink water, we think of the source, and Mr. Zhang truly deserves much of the credit for this. Unexpectedly, heaven did not spare him from tragedy, and on a certain day in a certain month of a certain year, he was killed in the line of duty for the sake of the nation. Beyond our deep grief, we feared his life's work would be forgotten, so we gathered together to erect a stone tablet to honor his name. We still feel a sense of regret, knowing this may not fully reflect his contributions. We are now carving a plaque to ensure his memory lasts, as a small way to show our gratitude.
Erected by all the members of the Beizhen County Mosque.
An auspicious day in the middle of the twelfth lunar month, in the ninth year of the Republic of China.
23. Longshengzhuang Mosque in Ulanqab, 'Respect the Great and Noble'
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Early May, the fourth year of the Republic of China
Koubei Mongolian Salt Bureau...
From the Qing Dynasty to the Republic of China, all salt produced in the salt lakes of the Inner Mongolian Plateau was called Mongolian salt (mengyan). In 1913, the Beiyang government used salt taxes as collateral to sign a 25 million pound sterling reorganization loan with a banking consortium from Britain, France, Germany, Russia, and Japan. The agreement required China to hire foreigners to help reorganize the salt tax. China then began salt administration reforms and established the Koubei Mongolian Salt Bureau. The main office was in Duolunnor, and a branch was also set up in Longshengzhuang, Fengzhen.
24. Longshengzhuang Mosque in Ulanqab, 'The Way Connects Heaven and Earth'
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Specially appointed candidate for the Fengzhen Magistrate's Office, holding a military merit rank.
The first ten days of the autumn month in the Xinyou year, the 11th year of the Xianfeng reign of the Great Qing Dynasty.
25. "Uphold Truth and Maintain Sincerity" (Shouzhen Cuncheng) at Longshengzhuang Mosque in Ulanqab.
Erected in the 734th year of the Genghis Khan era.
Prince De.
The 734th year of the Genghis Khan era is 1940. Prince Demchugdongrub was a Mongolian noble and the Prince of the Sunid Right Banner. He started the "Inner Mongolia High Autonomy Movement" at Bailingmiao in 1933. In 1939, he became the chairman of the puppet "Mongolian United Autonomous Government." This plaque was inscribed when Prince De took office as chairman.
26. Arabic script plaque at Longshengzhuang Mosque in Ulanqab.
Dedicated in the first ten days of the ninth lunar month, in the year of Jiyou, the first year of the Xuantong reign of the Great Qing Dynasty, by Gu Dan.
Respectfully presented by Hui Muslims Deng Risheng and Ma Jiansheng from Datong.
The Ma family of Hui Muslims in Datong originally came from Youwei, Shanxi. During the Ming Dynasty, they were a prominent military family. In the mid-Wanli period, the Ma Family Army, led by Ma Gui and his brothers and nephews, was famous for its combat skills. They earned great merit for defending Youwei for six months against Altan Khan. Since the Ming Dynasty, the Ma family has been a major Hui Muslim clan in Datong. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, they often helped renovate the Datong Mosque and served as imams. After the Qing Dynasty, when military garrisons became counties, the Ma family of Datong transitioned from military life to civilian life. They found success in business and government, and for a time, they were the actual managers of the Datong Mosque.
27. Arabic script plaque at Longshengzhuang Mosque in Ulanqab.
We welcome everyone to leave comments and add more information.
An auspicious day in the first month of summer, the 15th year of the Republic of China.
The third elder Zhang Zhenhai led the construction of the main hall, and this plaque was carved to commemorate its completion.
28. Longshengzhuang Mosque in Ulanqab, inscribed with "Its Honor Has No Equal."
An auspicious day in the first month of summer, the 15th year of the Republic of China.
Inscribed by Ma Fuxiang, Army General, Xiangwu General, holder of the Second Class Order, and Military Governor of Suiyuan.
29. Longshengzhuang Mosque in Ulanqab, inscribed with "Ancient Faith That Opened the Heavens."
An auspicious day in the first month of summer, the 15th year of the Republic of China.
Inscribed by Ma Fuxiang, Army General, Xiangwu General, holder of the Second Class Order, and Military Governor of Suiyuan.
30. Hohhot Great Mosque (Qingzhen Dasi)
An auspicious day in the sixth month of the 16th year of the Guangxu reign of the Great Qing Dynasty
31. Hohhot Great Mosque, 'Acknowledging the Oneness of Allah' (Renzhu Duyi)
13th year of the Republic of China
Inscribed by Ma Fuxiang of Longyou
32. Qinhuangdao Shanhaiguan Mosque, 'Transcending Through the Ages' (Chaoguan Wangu)
Imperial brush of Emperor Wuzong
12th year of the Zhengde reign of the Great Ming Dynasty
33. The "Light of Islam" (Qingzhen Guangming) plaque at Botou Mosque in Cangzhou.
Grand Guardian of the Heir Apparent and hereditary Duke Yansheng.
The fifth lunar month of the third year of the Tongzhi reign.
After 1966, Botou Mosque stopped its religious activities. The main prayer hall was used as a workshop by an embroidery factory, an oilcloth factory, a straw hat factory, and a sack thread factory. The ablution room (shuifang) was used by an agricultural production team as a machine processing workshop. The side gates on both sides of the main entrance, the charity school, the side halls, and the south lecture hall all collapsed. The spire of the Moon-Watching Tower (Wangyuelou) was smashed, its first-floor walls fell down, and the base walls of the main prayer hall also collapsed. Eighteen original plaques inscribed by figures like Ji Xiaolan and Zhang Zhidong were lost. Eventually, only the damaged "Light of Islam" (Qingzhen Guangming) plaque, inscribed in 1864 (the third year of the Tongzhi reign) by the 75th-generation Duke Yansheng, Kong Xiangke, was found. In 1982, a calligrapher repaired the damaged parts by imitating the original writing.
34. The "Heaven is Close at Hand" (Tiantang Zhichi) plaque at Shucun Mosque in Beijing.
The full moon of the mid-autumn season in the Guiyou year of the Tongzhi reign.
Fourth-rank imperial bodyguard with a sword, Li Peng.
35. Beijing Dewai Fayuan Mosque, 'All Things Return to the Truth'.
Ramadan in the Year of the Dragon.
Army General and Second-Class Medal recipient, Suiyuan Military Governor Ma Fuxiang.
Inscribed by Army General Ma Fuxiang in 1928. In the late 1920s, Ma Fuxiang was living in Beijing without an official post. He spent his time studying Islamic texts and donated money to help build schools for the Muslim community. In 1928, he helped organize the Beiping Muslim Middle School, which was later renamed Northwest Public School. He also donated over a dozen school buildings he had purchased behind the Dongsi Mosque to the Chengda Teachers' College.
36. Beijing Niujie Mosque, 'Imperial Edict'.
Imperial edict from the sixth month of the 33rd year of the Kangxi reign.
I have reviewed the great records of Han and Hui Muslims throughout history. From the beginning, the great path has been clear. There are seventy-two sects that claim to lead people to immortality or Buddhahood, but they actually lead people toward evil and heresy. I will not punish the past, but anyone who violates this again will be beheaded. Han officials hold positions, receive my salary, and attend court daily. Hui Muslims pray to Allah and honor the Prophet five times a day without receiving any salary from me, yet they know how to show gratitude. In this, the Han are not as good as the Hui. Let all provinces know: if officials or commoners use minor grievances to falsely report that Hui Muslims are plotting a rebellion, the responsible official shall be executed first and reported later. Hui Muslims everywhere must follow the pure faith (qingzhen) and not disobey this order or fail my grace. This shows my love for the path. Respect this and follow it.
Legend has it that in the third month of the 33rd year of the Kangxi reign, during Ramadan, Kangxi received a secret report from Li, the patrol censor of the southern city of Beijing, claiming that Hui Muslims in Niujie were gathering at night to plot a rebellion. Kangxi asked the Grand Councilors Niu Xi and Wang Xi, who lived near Niujie, but neither had heard of such a thing. Kangxi then took the two officials on an undercover visit. At night, they saw many people performing Tarawih prayers inside the brightly lit Niujie mosque, with no other activities, so he issued the imperial edict.
Additionally, the Niujie local gazetteer "Gangzhi," copied by Shen Fengyi during the Daoguang reign (presumably written during the Yongzheng reign), records that in 1694, the teacher at the Niujie mosque, Sayyid Ma Tengyun, was involved in a case of communicating with the enemy. It says that Galdan of the Dzungar Khanate sent two Hami Muslims to Beijing as spies, and Ma Tengyun of the Niujie mosque often hosted them for meals. Later, one of them was caught by the Lifanyuan (the Qing dynasty agency for border affairs) patrol, and he gave up Ma Tengyun. The Lifanyuan immediately arrested Ma Tengyun and Yin Liangxiang from the Jiaozihutong mosque, while the Bingmasi (the city guard) sent troops to seal off Niujie. The Lifanyuan submitted a report to the emperor asking to slaughter all Hui Muslims in the capital, but Kangxi rejected it. Kangxi ordered, "The Hui Muslims in the capital are also my children... just strictly arrest the spies, do not implicate the innocent." In the end, Ma Tengyun and Yin Liangxiang were released, and mosques across Beijing held scripture readings to give thanks. This event matches the timing and content of the imperial decree stele, and it is very likely the reason the decree was issued.
37. Beijing Xihuisi mosque "Qingzhen Wuer" (The only true faith).
The first day of the fourth lunar month in the first year of the Daoguang reign.
Respectfully presented by Cao Zhenyong, Grand Secretary of the Hall of Benevolence (Tiren Ge) from ancient Shexian.
Cao Zhenyong was a key official during the Jiaqing and Daoguang eras of the Qing Dynasty. In the 18th year of the Jiaqing reign, he was promoted to Grand Secretary of the Hall of Benevolence, managed the Ministry of Works, and was given the honorary title of Junior Guardian of the Heir Apparent. Between the 19th and 25th years of the Jiaqing reign, the Jiaqing Emperor visited the imperial tombs six times and went on the Mulan autumn hunt five times. As Prime Minister, Cao Zhenyong stayed behind to guard the capital.
In the first year of the Daoguang reign, Cao Zhenyong was promoted to Junior Tutor of the Heir Apparent and Grand Secretary of the Hall of Martial Valor (Wuying Dian). The Daoguang Emperor praised him, saying, "At the start of my personal rule, he was the first upright man to advance." "He is a trusted official in the most secret of places." "His learning is profound, and his advice is pure and precise." "He is diligent and cautious, and he is the first to handle imperial edicts."
38. The 'Wuta Guiyi' plaque at Hexiwu Mosque in Tianjin.
Erected on a lucky day in the fourth lunar month of the Jiyou year, the first year of the Xuantong reign of the Qing Dynasty.
Respectfully erected by Jin Yuqi, a third-rank official with a blue feather, serving as the garrison commander of the river defense left battalion and acting guard of the Weiwu Pass.
39. The 'Yi Zai Qingzhen' plaque at the North Mosque in Yangcun, Tianjin.
Respectfully honoring.
The late Mr. Ma, whose given name was Jun, lived to the age of eighty. He died after being kicked by livestock belonging to a person named Bian, and his final wish to his family was to accept this fate. He asked them to strictly follow the halal way and not let the incident cause trouble for anyone else. However, in our view, no one could hold back their tears; this is the act of a kind person. Alas, the Bian family enjoys peace, and our village also admires them, for it shows the true path of Islam. The way the Ma family follows these practices is something I hope both Hui Muslims and Han people will remember forever, as it is truly beneficial. We write this plaque to honor and praise them.
Respectfully inscribed in the second month of the year of Jiwei, the eighth year of the Republic of China.
40. The North Mosque (Beidasi) in Yangcun, Tianjin: 'Most Merciful and Most Just'.
Respectfully erected by Mu Changrong, the imperial-appointed and expectant Assistant Brigade General of Zhili, titled Guyong Baturu.
An auspicious day in the seventh month of the first year of the Tongzhi reign.
41. The Great Northern Mosque (Beidasi) in Yangcun, Tianjin, features the plaque 'Great is the Creative Power of Heaven' (Dazai Qianyuan).
A lucky day in the fifth month of the 13th year of the Republic of China.
Respectfully inscribed by Mu Wenshan, a military aide-de-camp awarded the Fifth Class Order of the Wenhu and the Grand Cordon of the Order of the Golden Grain.
42. The Jinjiayao Mosque in Tianjin features the plaque 'Reject Falsehood and Return to Truth' (Quwang Guizhen).
A lucky day in the first month of autumn in the ninth year of the Guangxu reign.
My late father Yiran followed the ancient teachings and strictly observed the halal way. Because some in our community were showing off and spreading strange ideas, he long wanted to clarify the true path for future generations. He passed away before he could fulfill this wish, so I have carefully recorded his instructions.
I wrote the holy practices on this plaque so that those who share our faith will see it and be reminded not to let any false thoughts enter their minds. If the ancient faith is not lost, this record can comfort the spirits of those who came before.
Respectfully written by Hei Yaozeng.
Republished by Hei Zhaorong and Hei Pengnian.
43. The Ancient Islamic Faith plaque at the North Mosque (Beidasi) in Tianmu, Tianjin.
An auspicious day in the autumn of the second year of the Xuantong reign (1910).
Respectfully presented by Xiao Liangtong, a military officer holding the rank of commander with the honor of wearing a blue feather, serving as the acting head of the Tianjin County garrison.
Calligraphy by Prince Su.
44. The Upholding the Past and Awaiting the Future plaque at the North Mosque (Beidasi) in Tianmu, Tianjin.
An auspicious day in the autumn of the ninth year of the Guangxu reign.
Respectfully erected by Hei Yaozeng, a selected county magistrate with the honorary rank of assistant regional commander.
Hei Zhaorong, a garrison commander (bazong) of the Ziya River patrol in Jinghai County, who holds the honorary fourth-rank title and the privilege of wearing a blue feather.
Reprinted by Hei Pengnian, a garrison commander (bazong) of the South Grand Canal battalion, who holds the honorary fifth-rank title and the privilege of wearing a blue feather.
45. The Ancient Islamic Teaching at the South Mosque (Nandasi) in Tianjin.
An auspicious day in the seventh month of the Gengyin year of the Guangxu reign of the Great Qing Dynasty.
Respectfully presented by Hei Zhaorong, a river battalion commander (qianzong) under the jurisdiction of the Tianjin Prefecture, who holds the honorary fourth-rank title and the privilege of wearing a blue feather.
46. The South Mosque (Nandasi) in Tianjin.
The many manifest the one, the hidden essence conceals the great grace, and the great transformation is completed.
Movement creates words, stillness returns to the truth, and the traveler on the path returns to the origin.
Written by Prince Li.
47. Tianjin South Mosque, 'Truth Without Falsehood'.
An auspicious day in the ninth month of the sixth year of the Guangxu reign.
Respectfully erected by Zuo Baogui, a nominated provincial commander-in-chief, leader of the Fengtian army's central-right cavalry and infantry battalions, and commander of the eight brigades of the Jiesheng cavalry, honored with the title Kengse Baturu.
48. Tianjin South Mosque, 'Transformation Originating from the Infinite'.
Respectfully written by Peng Yuwen, a court-appointed official with the rank of Zhongxian Dafu serving as the Tianjin Circuit Intendant of Zhili.
An auspicious day in the seventh lunar month of the bingwu year, the 26th year of the Daoguang reign.
Respectfully erected by Zhang Yunbiao and Zhang Guangrui from Tianjin, along with their sons Jindong and Jinbang.
49. Tianjin South Mosque (Nandasi).
The source of the most just, most great, and most high righteous path remains forever in the universe.
The mystery of the true mechanism, which has no scent, no sound, and no trace, silently operates throughout the world.
An auspicious day in the fifth lunar month of summer in the jisi year, the eighth year of the Tongzhi reign.
Respectfully presented by Li Jiqing, a member of the community from Zhangwu.
50. Tianjin South Mosque (Nandasi).
You come here to pray with a pure heart and few desires, attending the five daily namaz to find peace.
This path is not too deep or mysterious to understand; cast aside vanity, seek the truth, and a single moment of repentance is enough.
Mid-autumn, the Jia-chen year of the Guangxu reign.
Written by Wang Lantai of Huichuan.
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Mosque Travel Guide: 50 Mosques I Visited - Muslim Heritage Across China
Reposted from the web
5 mosques in Heilongjiang
Qiqihar Buque East Mosque and Buque West Mosque
Harbin Daowai Mosque, Tatar Mosque, and Acheng Mosque
1 mosque in Jilin
Changchun Changtong Road Mosque
12 mosques in Liaoning
Tieling Kaiyuan Old City Mosque
Shenyang South Mosque, East Mosque, and Xinmin Mosque
Fengcheng Mosque in Dandong
Qingdui Mosque and Fuzhou Mosque in Dalian
Xinlitun Mosque, Beizhen Mosque, and Luyang Mosque in Jinzhou
Lingyuan Mosque in Chaoyang
Suizhong Mosque in Huludao
4 mosques in Inner Mongolia
North Mosque (Beidasi) in Chifeng
Longshengzhuang Mosque in Ulanqab
Hohhot Great Mosque and East Mosque
16 mosques in Hebei
Chengde West Mosque and Pingquan Mosque
Zhangjiakou Xinhua Street Mosque, Xiguan Mosque, Tu'ergou Mosque, Xuanhua South Great Mosque, Xuanhua North Mosque, and Xuanhua Middle Mosque
Baoding West Mosque, East Mosque, Women's Mosque, and Zhuozhou Mosque
Cangzhou North Great Mosque and Botou Mosque
Xingtai Hongguanying Mosque
Qinhuangdao Shanhaiguan Mosque
12 mosques in Beijing (continued in the next part)
Gubeikou Mosque and Mujia Yu Mosque in Miyun
Nankou Mosque, Wujie Mosque, Heying Mosque, Shahe Mosque, and Xiguanshi Mosque in Changping
Anheqiao Mosque, Shucun Mosque, Madian Mosque, Haidian Mosque, and Siwangfu Mosque in Haidian
Heilongjiang
1. Bukui East Mosque in Qiqihar
Bukui Ancient Mosque and the Hui community in Qiqihar, Heilongjiang
Bukui East Mosque in Qiqihar is the oldest mosque in Heilongjiang. The most common story is that it was built in 1676 by over 40 Hui families who moved to Bukui Village from Shandong and Hebei. Another theory says it was built in 1700 by the Wang and Xia families, who were Hui Muslims from Jinan, Shandong, and moved to Qiqihar with the Heilongjiang Naval Battalion. The original Bukui Mosque was just a thatched hut. It was rebuilt many times during the Jiaqing and Guangxu eras, eventually reaching its current size.
The most unique part of the East Mosque is the Moon-Sighting Tower (Wangyuelou) above the rear hall. It is a three-story structure with a four-cornered pointed roof and intricate brick carvings. On the east side, there is a plaque that reads 'Tianfang Jiejing'. The copper lotus-base gourd finial on top of the hall was added during the major renovation of the Bukui East Mosque in 1893 (the 19th year of the Guangxu era). People say Ma Wanliang bought it from a Tibetan Buddhist mosque near Zhangjiakou. Local legend says the finial was not installed until after the Republican era because it was taller than the near mansion of the Yikeming'an Eighth Prince.
2. Qiqihar
Bukui West Mosque
Bukui Ancient Mosque and the Hui community in Qiqihar, Heilongjiang
The Bukui West Mosque in Qiqihar, Heilongjiang, belongs to the Jahriyya order. In 1817, the third-generation leader (murshid) of the Jahriyya, Ma Datian, was sentenced to exile in Qiqihar, Heilongjiang. Twelve families led by Master Niu volunteered to take his place and followed him into exile. Ma Datian passed away while passing through the Jilin Shipyard. He was honored as the Shipyard Master (Chuanchang Taiye) from then on, while the 12 families continued their exile to Qiqihar. After arriving in Qiqihar, the 12 families were welcomed by the local Gedimu community. In 1852, they built the West Mosque (Bukuixi Si) on the west side of the Bukui Mosque, making it the only Jahriyya mosque in Heilongjiang.
The mosque keeps a banner inscribed with the words 'Benevolence, Loyalty, and Harmony.' It reads: 'In memory of the 50th anniversary of the passing of the late Imam Niu Chenggong, offered by his humble juniors Ma Yongcai and Ma Yongzhi on the 13th day of the eighth lunar month in the 14th year of Guangxu reign.' Imam Niu Chenggong is the same Master Niu who volunteered to take the blame and follow the Shipyard Master to Qiqihar. Master Niu was originally an imam from the Lingwu area of Wuzhong. Many stories of his miracles during the journey to Qiqihar are widely told among the Jahriyya menhuan. Every year, Jahriyya followers from places like Ningxia and Gansu travel thousands of miles to Qiqihar to visit Master Niu's grave.
3. Harbin Daowai Mosque
Daowai Mosque in Harbin and the century-old Laoguo Family Restaurant
Daowai Mosque, also known as the East Mosque or Binjiang Mosque, started in 1897 (the 23rd year of Guangxu reign) when five thatched rooms were bought on South 12th Street. It was rebuilt in 1904. In the early 1930s, Imam Ma Songting proposed a new building. Head Imam Bai Yusheng traveled around to collect donations (nietie) and hired Russian designers, the Krabryov siblings, to build the current hall of Daowai Mosque in 1935.
Daowai Mosque has a strong Russian style. Its Roman columns and onion domes modeled after Russian architecture are unique, making it a standout piece of mosque architecture from the Republican era.
The classic Russian onion dome actually started in the Middle East. The earliest visible onion domes appear in Syrian mosaic images from the Arab Umayyad Caliphate (661–750 AD), and the earliest physical examples were built by the Seljuk Empire in Iran during the 11th century. Historians are not sure when Russia started using onion domes. Some scholars guess they learned it from the mosques of the Kazan Tatars after Russia conquered the Kazan Khanate in the 16th century, while others think they developed from Byzantine domes.
4. Harbin Tatar Mosque
The history of Harbin Tatar Mosque
Construction of the Chinese Eastern Railway began in 1897 with Harbin as its center. After that, many Tatars from Russia came to live and work along the railway line. Tatars began settling in Harbin in 1901 and built the first wooden Tatar mosque that same year. As the Tatar population grew, they rebuilt the mosque using brick in 1906. The number of Tatar immigrants in Harbin rose after 1917, reaching over a thousand in the 1920s. Most of them made a living by trading furs, textiles, and clothing.
To mark the 1,000th anniversary of their ancestors, the Volga Bulgars, converting to Islam in 922 AD, the Harbin Tatars decided to build a new mosque. Construction of the new mosque started in 1923, but it stalled for a time due to the imam passing away, political instability, and poor management of funds. In 1936, Imam Münir Hasibullah traveled to every place where Tatars lived in the Far East to collect donations (niatie). The Millennium Mosque finally opened on October 8, 1937. After the Soviet Union entered Northeast China in 1945, most Harbin Tatars chose to move to the United States, Canada, and Turkey. By 1960, fewer than five Tatars remained in Harbin, and the Harbin Tatar community officially dissolved.
5. Acheng Mosque in Harbin
The beautiful Acheng Mosque in Heilongjiang
In 1770, a Hui Muslim named Yang Huaxian from Shen County, Shandong, settled in Acheng with the Qing army. Afterward, more Hui Muslims moved from Shandong to Acheng and rented homes from Manchu bannermen. By 1777, there were 26 (some say 28) Hui Muslim households in Acheng, including the Yang, Wang, San, Ma, Zhang, Ding, Jin, and Cai families. They rented houses and established the first Acheng Mosque, with Yang Huaxian serving as the mosque elder. In 1802, elder Yang Huaxian negotiated the purchase of land to build a formal Acheng Mosque. Construction took 50 years, spanning the Jiaqing, Daoguang, and Xianfeng reigns. In 1873, 12 years after the mosque was completed, a fire in Acheng destroyed the moon-sighting tower (wangyuelou) and the north lecture hall, leaving only the south lecture hall and the reception hall. In 1890, the mosque's imam, Liu Yuzhang, and manager Luo Yuzhang began organizing the reconstruction of the mosque. It took 10 years to complete the current structure in 1900.
Inside the hall of Acheng Mosque, there is a beautiful pulpit (minbar). It is actually one of two models built in 1890 for the reconstruction of the mosque's moon-sighting tower (wangyuelou). After the mosque elders discussed it, they chose the style of the other model, so this one was used as the pulpit (minbar).
Jilin
6. Changchun Changtong Road Mosque
Hand-pulled noodles (chenmian) in Nanguan, Changchun, and the Changtong Road Mosque
The Qing Dynasty relaxed its ban on Jilin in the early 19th century in Jiaqing reign. In 1800 (the fifth year of Jiaqing), Changchun Subprefecture was established in Changchunbao. Hui Muslims began moving to Changchun at this time, and because most came from Shandong, they were called the Shandong Group.
Changchun Changtong Road Mosque was built in 1824 (the fourth year of Daoguang). It was originally located inside the east gate of Dongsandao Street. In 1852 (the second year of Xianfeng), elder Han Xuecheng and Gong Wanmei donated houses, and elder Shi Xuecheng donated trees to move the mosque to its current location in Tielingtun. In 1864 (the third year of Tongzhi), Imam Han Dengqing and others raised funds to expand the mosque, building the current five-room hall and the three-story rear hall (yaodian). In 1889 (the 15th year of Guangxu reign), Imam Han Laixiang bought land from the Xu family in front of the mosque. He built the main gate tower, east and west side rooms, a north lecture hall, an east reception hall, and a front porch for the hall. The mosque was expanded several more times in the Republican era.
Liaoning
7. Old City Mosque in Kaiyuan, Tieling
A tour of three mosques in Liaoning: Lingyuan, Shenyang, and Kaiyuan
The Old City Mosque in Kaiyuan, Tieling, is inside the east gate of the old city of Kaiyuan. It was built in 1406 (the 4th year of the Yongle reign of the Ming) and is the oldest mosque in Northeast China. The current hall follows the style of the 1680 (the 19th year of Kangxi reign) reconstruction. It consists of a vaulted porch, the hall, and a hexagonal pavilion-style prayer niche (yaodian), which is similar in style to the South Mosque in Shenyang. The reception hall of the Old City Mosque stores old items, including drip tiles, eave tiles, roof ridge beasts, and carved wooden railings from the hall. It also holds the finial from the moon-sighting tower (wangyuelou) of the prayer niche and a plaque inscribed with the words 'Ling Luo Sha Juan' (fine silks and satins).
8. South Mosque in Shenyang
A tour of three mosques in Liaoning: Lingyuan, Shenyang, and Kaiyuan
Shenyang South Mosque was built in 1636, the first year of the Chongde reign of the Qing. The ancestors of the Tie family who founded it were Hui Muslims from Central Asia who arrived in China during the Mongol western campaigns. In the early Ming Dynasty, Tie Xuan served as a provincial official in Jinan. During the Jingnan Campaign, he led troops to defend the city of Jinan. After the Prince of Yan broke through the city, Tie Xuan was captured and executed by dismemberment. After Tie Xuan returned to Allah, his second son, Tie Fushu, fled outside the Great Wall. During the Wanli reign (1573-1620), he moved from Jinzhou to Shenyang.
In 1662, the first year of Kangxi reign, Tie Kui expanded Shenyang South Mosque. He invited the famous imam She Yuanshan from Beijing to set up a school there. After Imam She's student, Tie Hongji, finished his studies, he became the leader of the mosque. From then on, the position of imam at the South Mosque was passed down through the Tie family for 11 generations. The last imam, Tie Zizhang, served until 1956.
The rear hall of the mosque was expanded in 1902. The hall is not the traditional T-shape but a hexagonal kiln-style hall. This design, which adds a loft-style kiln hall to the back of the hall, is common in the Northeast region.
9. Shenyang East Mosque
A tour of three mosques in Liaoning: Lingyuan, Shenyang, and Kaiyuan
Shenyang East Mosque was built in 1803 (the eighth year of Jiaqing reign). In 1935, the hall was rebuilt in a Western style, but the Moon-Sighting Tower (wangyuelou) kept its original Chinese style. The East Mosque was taken over in 1958, returned in 1980, and became the Shenyang Islamic Institute (Shenyang jingxueyuan) in 1988.
10. Shenyang Xinmin Mosque
[Liaoning Trip during Dragon Boat Festival] Strolling through the morning market in Shenyang and visiting an old mosque in Xinmin.
Xinmin is in the northwest of Shenyang. During the early years of Qianlong reign of the Qing, many new immigrants came here to farm after crossing the border, which is how it got the name 'Xinmin'. Many Hui Muslims came to Xinmin in Qianlong reign, and they built the Xinmin Mosque in Nanyingzi in 1765 (the thirtieth year of Qianlong reign). The Xinmin Mosque burned down in 1866 (the fifth year of the Tongzhi reign) and was rebuilt in 1883 (the ninth year of Guangxu reign), which is the structure we see now.
The main structure of Xinmin Mosque consists of a porch (juanpeng), the hall, a rear vaulted hall (yaodian), and the Moon-Sighting Tower (wangyuelou) on top of the vaulted hall. The Moon-Sighting Tower has a double-eaved, four-cornered pointed roof, topped with a 1.5-meter-tall copper wind-mill finial. The beams of the porch are painted with Suzhou-style patterns, and the wooden screens feature intricate openwork carvings.
11. Fengcheng Mosque in Dandong
[Dragon Boat Festival Trip to Liaoning] Fengcheng Ancient Mosque and Dandong Food
Fengcheng Mosque was built in 1775 (the 40th year of Qianlong reign). It was renovated in 1862 (the 1st year of the Tongzhi reign), and in 1876 (the 2nd year of Guangxu reign), the north lecture hall was rebuilt and side rooms were added. In 1890 (the 16th year of Guangxu reign), the Moon-Sighting Tower was added, giving the mosque its current size. The most unique feature of Fengcheng Mosque is the Moon-Sighting Tower, built in Guangxu reign. It has a double-eaved, four-cornered pointed roof with elegant upturned eaves, brackets, and finely carved decorative brackets (que-ti).
12. Qingdui Mosque in Dalian
[Dragon Boat Festival Trip to Liaoning] Dalian City, Fuzhou Ancient City, and Qingdui Ancient Town
Qingdui Town is a thousand-year-old town that has served as a fishing port and commercial hub on the Liaodong Peninsula since the Tang Dynasty. Qingbu Port officially opened in 1743 (the eighth year of Qianlong reign), making Qingdui Town an important transit point for people from Shandong and Hebei migrating to the Northeast. During the late Qing Dynasty and the Republican era, Qingdui Town was home to over three hundred businesses, with shops lining the streets and bustling with activity. Today, Qingdui Town still preserves many old houses with green bricks and dark tiles from the late Qing and Republican periods, and Qingdui Mosque (Qingdui Si) is one of them.
Qingdui Mosque was built in the Daoguang reign of the Qing, starting as just three thatched rooms. In July 1894, the First Sino-Japanese War broke out, and the famous Hui Muslim general Zuo Baogui led his troops to Korea to fight the Japanese, passing by Qingdui Mosque on the way. General Zuo Baogui got along very well with Imam Zhang Chaozhen of Qingdui Mosque. Later, he donated money, and with additional funds raised by his personal Hui Muslim guards and three local halal restaurants—Deshengyuan, Qingshengyuan, and Yongshengyuan—they worked together to expand the mosque. It is a pity that General Zuo Baogui died heroically fighting the Japanese in Pyongyang before the expansion of Qingdui Mosque was finished.
In 1895 (the 21st year of Guangxu reign), Hui Wanchun, the elder in charge of Qingdui Mosque, led the rebuilding of the hall into the three-room green brick and tile structure we see now. In 1920 (the 9th year of the Republic), the gatehouse was rebuilt and the lecture hall was expanded, giving the mosque its current size.
Above the gate of Qingdui Mosque is a brick-carved couplet that reads: 'The pure palace spreads the teachings of the Muhammadan path, the true sage passes down scriptures that bring grace from the Western Regions.' This is a very precious piece of Republic-era brick-carved calligraphy. The main gate is usually closed, so you have to enter the mosque through the south wing where the imam lives. The imam is from Gansu, and he warmly told us about the history of Qingdui Mosque; it is not easy for his family to stay here and keep this small community mosque running.
13. Fuzhou Mosque in Dalian
[Dragon Boat Festival Trip to Liaoning] Dalian City, Fuzhou Ancient City, and Qingdui Ancient Town
In the early Qing Dynasty, Hui Muslims with the surnames Yin, Dai, Ma, and Hui arrived in Fuzhou. In 1649, the sixth year of the Shunzhi reign, they began planning the Fuzhou Mosque. By 1656, the thirteenth year of the Shunzhi reign, they finished building three thatched rooms to serve as the hall. The hall was rebuilt in 1774, the thirty-ninth year of Qianlong reign, and expanded again in 1880, the sixth year of Guangxu reign, though it still had a thatched roof. In 1920, the front porch and rear kiln-style hall were added, and the roof was changed to grey brick tiles, creating the structure seen now.
Hanging in front of the Fuzhou Mosque hall is a plaque inscribed with the words "Return to Simplicity and Truth" (Huan Pu Gui Zhen). It was presented in 1897, the twenty-third year of Guangxu reign, by Wang Tingxiang, a high-ranking official who held several titles including Imperial Censor of the Jiangnan Circuit and Commissioner of Education for Shanxi.
14. Xinlitun Mosque in Jinzhou
[Dragon Boat Festival Trip to Liaoning] The ancient town of Xinlitun in western Liaoning and the coal city of Fuxin
Xinlitun is an ancient town in western Liaoning, known as the "First Town Beyond the Frontier." During the Daoguang period of the Qing, Hui Muslims from places like Jinzhou, Yixian, Heishan, and Yingkou came to settle in Xinlitun. They built the Xinlitun Mosque in 1842.
On the 15th day of the first lunar month in 1873, Xinlitun held a stilt-walking festival. During the event, a conflict broke out between a Manchu banner man named Dashan, also known as Fifth Master Da, and Hui Muslims including Liu Hua, Zhao Guang'en, and Wang Yao. This escalated into a clash between the Manchu and Hui communities, which ended with the Xinlitun Mosque being burned down. Afterward, both the Manchu and Hui communities learned from the incident and decided to rebuild the Xinlitun Mosque. After several years of preparation, General Zuo Baogui, an anti-Japanese hero who led the Fengtian Army, took the lead by donating 300 taels of silver to finally complete the reconstruction.
15. Beizhen Mosque in Jinzhou
Visiting an old mosque in Jinzhou, Liaoning
The Beizhen Mosque was built in 1522, expanded in 1617, and renovated again in 1798. Beizhen Mosque was once inside the south wall of Guangning City. During Qianlong reign, the south wall was abandoned when the city was rebuilt. The wall slowly disappeared, and later Guangning City was renamed Beizhen City. This turned Beizhen Mosque from a city mosque into one located outside the city walls.
Beizhen Mosque follows the traditional northern mosque layout of a porch (juanpeng), hall (dadian), and rear niche (yaodian). Unusually, the porch and the hall are separate structures and do not connect. The beams and brackets are painted with floral patterns, and the wood carvings are very fine and detailed.
16. Luyang Mosque in Jinzhou
Visiting an old mosque in Jinzhou, Liaoning
Luyang Mosque in Jinzhou, Liaoning, was built in 1531 (the tenth year of the Jiajing reign of the Ming). It was rebuilt in the Xianfeng reign of the Qing and reached its current form in 1925. Manager Wang of the Luyang Enliyong pastry shop oversaw the construction. He invited Yang Peiran (Yuchun), who was a brigade commander in the Northeast Army at the time, to help raise the funds. Luyang Mosque is a rare historic mosque in China that features a moon-viewing tower (wangyuelou) placed directly above the hall. You can climb up to the tower to view the moon using a hanging wooden ladder. A plaque inscribed by the anti-Japanese hero General Zuo Baogui once hung in front of the hall, but it was destroyed. The current plaque was inscribed in 1984.
17. Lingyuan Mosque in Chaoyang
A tour of three mosques in Liaoning: Lingyuan, Shenyang, and Kaiyuan
Lingyuan City in Chaoyang, Liaoning, sits at the border of Hebei, Liaoning, and Inner Mongolia. It was originally called Tazigou. Since the Qianlong era of the Qing, Hui Muslims from Shandong and Hebei kept traveling through the Great Wall gaps near Xifengkou to reach the northeast. Lingyuan was their first stop after crossing the wall, and some Hui Muslims settled there. Lingyuan Mosque was built during the Qianlong era. According to stone inscriptions in the mosque, a Hui Muslim doctor named Zhang Lichen and others cured the illness of a Mongol prince from the Harqin Left Banner. The prince's estate then provided the land and silver to build the Lingyuan Mosque.
18. Suizhong Mosque in Huludao
The mosque and halal snacks in Suizhong, Liaoning
Suizhong County in Huludao, Liaoning, sits right next to Shanhai Pass and is the southwesternmost county in Liaoning Province. Starting in the 18th century, more than ten families of Hui Muslims, including the Zhang, Ding, Li, and Jin families, moved to Suizhong from Hebei Province. The first Suizhong mosque was built in 1737 (the second year of Qianlong reign) below the Kuixing Tower in the southeast of the city. It moved to its current location inside the West Gate in 1797 (the third year of Jiaqing reign) and took on its present form after being rebuilt between 1924 and 1927.
Inner Mongolia
19. Chifeng North Mosque
Chifeng North Mosque in Inner Mongolia and halal food
During the early Qing Dynasty, Hui Muslims from Shandong and Hebei continuously traveled through Gubeikou and Chengde to reach eastern Inner Mongolia to make a living. In the 1730s, ten Hui families with the surnames Zhang, Ma, and Bai moved from Shandong and Hebei to settle in Chifeng, where they became known as the ten great Hui families or the 'mountain-claiming households' (zhanshanhu). In 1739 (the fourth year of Qianlong reign), village elder Zhang Yueming from Chifeng led the effort to lease seven point six mu of land from Mongolian princes. They built five mud houses and a three-room hall, which became the earliest Chifeng Mosque.
In 1742 (the seventh year of Qianlong reign), village elder Ma Fen, who once ran the Desheng Security Firm in Shenyang, initiated the renovation of Chifeng Mosque. He paid for a plot of land, and the imam along with several village elders traveled to various places to collect donations through written requests (nietie). Afterward, Ma Fen went to Shenyang to hire craftsmen. Construction took four years and finished in 1747 (the twelfth year of Qianlong reign). All the wood used came from red pine trees on the south mountain of Chifeng. From then on, the imam of the North Mosque was always a scripture reader from the Ma family line.
20. Longshengzhuang Mosque in Ulanqab
Longshengzhuang, a former trading town for Shanxi merchants traveling to Mongolia.
Longshengzhuang is on the border between Shanxi and Inner Mongolia. From the Qing to the early Republic of China, it was an important trading hub for Shanxi merchants traveling to Mongolia. During the early Qing Dynasty, Hui Muslims from Hebei and Shandong kept moving to Longshengzhuang for business. In the late Qing Dynasty, many Hui Muslims from Shaanxi also migrated there. During the reign of the Guangxu Emperor in the Qing, the Hui Muslim population in Longshengzhuang grew to two or three thousand people, reaching a peak of over five thousand in the early years of the Republic. Then, Longshengzhuang had nearly twenty businesses, including a large halal restaurant (qingzhen dafanzhuang), livestock traders, brokers, and inns for travelers with horses.
Longshengzhuang Mosque was built in 1751. It started with only three halls. As more Muslims came here for business, they added a hall, a front gate, a second gate, side rooms, and a screen wall in 1831, creating a three-courtyard layout. The arched porch (juanpeng) of Longshengzhuang Mosque was expanded in 1926 and features beautiful ironwork decorations from the Republican era.
21. Hohhot Great Mosque
Summer halal food tour in Hohhot
Hohhot Great Mosque was built between the end of the Ming and the beginning of the Qing. It was expanded in 1789 (the 54th year of Qianlong reign) and again in 1923. The mosque gate was built in 1892 (the 18th year of Guangxu reign). Above it hangs a plaque inscribed with "Great Mosque" (Qingzhen Dasi) from 1890 (the 16th year of Guangxu reign), with plaques reading "National Prosperity" (Guotai) and "Peace for the People" (Min'an) on either side. Inside the entrance, you can see a brick-carved screen wall behind the hall. It was built in 1896 (the 22nd year of Guangxu reign) and is inscribed with phrases meaning "rectify the heart and be sincere in self-cultivation," "recognize the oneness of Allah," "brighten the heart," and "see one's true nature." These were written by Ma Fuxiang, who served as the Suiyuan Military Governor in 1924. The hall was expanded in 1923 and consists of a porch, a front hall, a middle hall, and a rear kiln-style hall. The roof features a connected structure with four gables and five pointed pavilions, which symbolize the five pillars of Islam: faith, prayer (namaz), fasting, charity, and pilgrimage. The porch blends Chinese and Western styles with arched doorways. The walls are has Arabic plaques, couplets, and floral patterns. The Moon-Sighting Tower (Wangyue Lou) was built in 1939. It stands 36 meters tall with a hexagonal brick base and a single-eave hexagonal pointed roof at the top.
22. Hohhot East Mosque
Summer halal food tour in Hohhot
Hohhot East Mosque was built in Kangxi reign of the Qing. It started as a school and was expanded into a mosque in Guangxu reign. The current building was rebuilt in 2014.
Hebei
23. West Mosque (Xisi) in Chengde
Mosques and halal food in Chengde
Hui Muslims began settling in Chengde after the Qing built the Mountain Resort. Whenever Emperor Kangxi held the Mulan autumn hunt or visited the resort to escape the summer heat, Hui Muslim soldiers and merchants followed him. In the early years of the Yongzheng reign, the Qing government stationed Green Standard Army troops in Chengde. Because most soldiers came from Shaanxi, it was called the Shaanxi Camp, and the Left Camp within it was mostly made up of Hui Muslims. From then on, the Shaanxi Camp became the main residential area for Hui Muslims in Chengde.
By the Qianlong era, Chengde had become a major city in the north. Hui Muslims from Shandong and Hebei came to do business, working in the food industry and cattle and sheep slaughtering, a movement known as 'chasing the imperial camp'. Today, the ten major surnames of Chengde's Hui Muslims, including Wang, Ma, Shi, and Chen, all moved here from Shandong. The Wu family moved from Cangzhou, Hebei, and the Kong family moved from Beijing. The earliest mosque in Chengde, the East Mosque (Dongsi), was built in Kangxi reign and was occupied in 1958. The existing West Mosque (Xisi) was built in the Daoguang reign. The hall consists of a porch (juanpeng), a hall, and a rear niche (yaodian). The moon-sighting tower (wangyuelou) is on top of the hall, topped with a decorative finial (baoding).
24. Pingquan Mosque in Chengde
Go to the small town of Pingquan outside the Great Wall to drink lamb bone broth (yangtang).
The South Street Mosque in Pingquan, Hebei, was built in 1647 (the fourth year of the Shunzhi reign of the Qing) and originally consisted of only three thatched rooms. As the number of Hui Muslims in Pingquan grew in Qianlong reign, the mosque's imam, Zhang Hongye, and his son, Zhang Jin, traveled to Beijing in 1742 (the seventh year of Qianlong reign). They made a model out of straw based on a mosque outside Qihua Gate (it is not verified whether it was the one at Nan Shangpo or Nan Xiapo) and brought it back to Pingquan to hire craftsmen to build the mosque. In 1915, Wu Zijian, the head of the Pingquan branch of the Islamic Promotion Association, led a renovation of the mosque.
25. Xinhua Street Mosque in Zhangjiakou
Mosques and halal food in Zhangjiakou and Xuanhua
Xinhua Street Mosque in Zhangjiakou was originally called Shenggou Mosque. It was built in 1863, the second year of the Tongzhi reign, by over eighty Hui families from Ningxia who had taken refuge in Zhangjiakou. Because these people mainly worked in the camel transport trade, Xinhua Street Mosque is also known as Camel Caravan Mosque (Tuofang Si).
These Hui Muslims were mostly from the Ma, Liu, Li, Du, Wu, Wang, and Ding families. They used camels to transport furs, silk, and tea for merchants, traveling between Inner Mongolia, Shanxi, Gansu, Mongolia, and Russia. They first built a simple hall next to a business called Baoshun Camel Shop. It reached its current size at Xinhua Street Mosque after several expansions. In front of the hall of Xinhua Street Mosque, there are beautiful stone railings with pillar tops carved into the shape of fruit plates. All the large pine beams and pillars in the hall were brought from Mongolia, serving as a witness to the camel transport trade in Zhangjiakou.
26. Xiguan Mosque in Zhangjiakou
Mosques and halal food in Zhangjiakou and Xuanhua
The Xiguan Mosque in Zhangjiakou was built during the reign of Emperor Yongzheng (1723-1735) by Hui Muslims from the Xiao, Zheng, Song, and Wang families who had lived in the Xiabao area of Zhangjiakou since the Ming and Qing dynasties. It had several renovations during the Qianlong, Jiaqing, and Daoguang eras. The original mihrab inside the hall of the Xiguan Mosque was destroyed due to historical events, and it could not be restored for a long time due to a lack of records. Fortunately, the mosque management committee kept searching and recently found a clear photo in a foreign book. In June 2020, they invited the famous Arabic calligrapher Wang Qifei to restore the Ming-style calligraphy on the mihrab. At the same time, he used Ming-style calligraphy to write the 99 Names of Allah on the caisson ceiling of the arched hall.
27. Turgou Mosque in Zhangjiakou
Mosques and halal food in Zhangjiakou and Xuanhua
After the Beijing-Zhangjiakou Railway opened, the Qiaodong area of Zhangjiakou became prosperous. Hui Muslims with the surnames Yang, Chen, He, and Ma, who moved from the Dachang and Sanhe areas of Hebei, raised funds to build the Turgou Mosque in 1917. It was known as the Beijing and Jingdong Fangshang. The current hall was rebuilt in 1990.
28. Xuanhua South Mosque in Zhangjiakou
Mosques and halal food in Zhangjiakou and Xuanhua
The South Mosque (Nandasi) in Xuanhua, Zhangjiakou, Hebei, was built in 1403 (the first year of the Yongle reign of the Ming). In 1820 (the 25th year of Jiaqing reign of the Qing), Hui Muslims from the Ding, Shan, and Yu families decided to move it to Miaodi Street. Then, they dismantled the gate, plaques, and Moon-Watching Tower (Wangyuelou) from the Ming mosque and moved them to the new site. Construction finished in 1854 (the fourth year of the Xianfeng reign of the Qing), making it the largest mosque in Zhangjiakou.
After the 1960s, the South Mosque suffered severe damage. The Moon-Watching Tower, corridors, stone arch bridge, and memorial archway were torn down, and all historical stone tablets, plaques, and couplets were destroyed. Restoration was finally completed between 2004 and 2007.
The South Mosque is laid out symmetrically along an east-west axis, with 15 halls and pavilions forming a complete architectural complex. Entering the main gate leads to a courtyard with a stone arch bridge in the center. Directly ahead is the Heart-Reflecting Tower (Shengxinlou), which has a hallway on the ground floor. The Moon-Watching Tower features upturned eaves with bracket sets and a double-eaved, hexagonal, pointed roof. The Moon-Watching Tower connects to the north and south lecture halls through covered corridors. The hall consists of a front porch (juanpeng), a hall, and a rear niche (yaodian). It uses a traditional timber frame structure with hardwood palace lanterns hanging from the beams. During Ramadan each year, all the lanterns are lit, making the hall as bright as day. Four pillars support the 17.6-meter-high roof of the rear niche (yaodian). The roof of the rear niche (yaodian) is an octagonal pointed structure with upturned eaves and a decorative caisson ceiling (zaojing) inside.
29. Xuanhua North Mosque in Zhangjiakou
Mosques and halal food in Zhangjiakou and Xuanhua
Xuanhua North Mosque in Zhangjiakou, Hebei, was built in 1722 (the 61st year of Kangxi reign of the Qing). The side rooms and auxiliary halls were rebuilt in 1860 and 1865. The North Mosque originally featured a gate tower, a minaret (xuanlilou), corridors, north and south side rooms, and a hall, all has ornate carvings and paintings. The hall is unique because the front porch (juanpeng), hall, and rear niche (yaodian) form a cross-shaped floor plan. The overall structure is shallow and wide, which is very different from the long and deep halls common in eastern regions, but is actually more common in Xinjiang. The kiln-style hall (yaodian) is also unique, featuring a square, multi-story roof built on top of the arched shed structure.
After the 1960s, the North Mosque suffered severe damage. The gate tower, side gate, perimeter walls, hanging flower gate (chuihuamen), corridors, and minaret were all torn down and have not been restored to this day. Currently, the hall and the north and south side rooms are rented out as warehouses. The roof of the kiln-style hall has collapsed, and the north side hall and the ablution room (shuifang) were converted into a workshop for a halal pastry factory, which still occupies the space.
30. Xuanhua Middle Mosque in Zhangjiakou
Mosques and halal food in Zhangjiakou and Xuanhua
Located between the North Mosque and the South Mosque, the Xuanhua Middle Mosque in Zhangjiakou, Hebei, is smaller in scale. It was built in 1821 (the first year of the Daoguang reign of the Qing) and underwent renovations in 2016.
31. Baoding West Mosque
The ancient mosques and halal food of Baoding
The West Mosque in Baoding, Hebei, was built in 1616 (the 44th year of the Wanli reign of the Ming). According to the stone inscriptions in the mosque, a man named Fa Gong from Hanji Village in Fangshan served as a military officer in Baoding during the Wanli years. He noticed there was no mosque in the city, which meant local Hui Muslims had to travel elsewhere for prayers during Eid (Erde). He bought 12 mu of land from the Wei family vegetable garden to build one. Besides building the mosque, the surrounding land was used for housing, which officially established the mosque community layout in Baoding. The West Mosque was renovated many times after the Qing. The bathing room was rebuilt in 1906 (the 23rd year of Guangxu reign), and the north and south lecture halls were rebuilt in the Republican era, creating the current layout.
The hall has two sections. The roof of the rear hall features an octagonal pavilion over 7 meters high, with a couplet that reads, 'The Lord is formless but can be understood by the heart, to leave room for others is a high virtue,' and a horizontal plaque that says, 'Looking toward Mecca (Tianfang).' The roof ridges originally had animal statues, but in the Republican era, Bai Yunzhang, the owner of the famous local halal steamed bun shop Bai Yunzhang Baozipu, paid to have them replaced with flower and plant designs. As a famous mosque in North China, the West Mosque had a thriving religious community and trained many scholars (alim), including Xie Jinqing, Yang Yuzhen, An Shiwei, and Yang Yongchang. The mosque also once had a training ground that produced many famous wrestling masters and martial arts teachers.
32. Baoding East Mosque
The ancient mosques and halal food of Baoding
During the Tongzhi reign, the West Mosque in Baoding became too crowded as the number of worshippers grew, making the hall feel small. Local residents Shi Xie and his son Shi Jun built a scripture room to the east of the West Mosque. A few years later, the famous imam Yan Mingpu oversaw its official completion as the Baoding East Mosque. The Baoding East Mosque was renovated many times. During Guangxu reign, Imam Zhang Ziwen and Mr. Shi Tongshan led the construction of the south lecture hall and the washroom (shuifang). During the Xuantong reign, Imam Xie Jinqing oversaw the building of the north lecture hall, while Shi Changchun and Shi Tongshan managed a full renovation. In 1936, Imam Yang Baozhai led another major restoration. Although the Baoding East Mosque is not large, many well-known imams taught here, including Imam Wang Gui, Imam Li Ba, Imam Zhang Li, and Imam Bai Da, helping to train many talented students. After 1958, the East Mosque was taken over for use as a blueprint paper factory. In 1979, ownership was returned to the West Mosque, and it now serves as a warehouse for the Xinyue Halal Food Factory.
33. Baoding Women's Mosque
The ancient mosques and halal food of Baoding
The Baoding Women's Mosque in Hebei was founded in 1916 in the mosque's north alley by Imam Yan Fengshan from the Baoding East Mosque, with Jin Shiniang from Shandong serving as the prayer leader. In 1932, Imam Sha Zhijun from Jilin was hired to start a halal girls' primary school inside the mosque, which closed after the Japanese occupation in 1937. In 1940, Imam Sha and Elder Shi traveled to Beijing, Tianjin, and Jinan to raise funds. With additional help from local community elders, they bought a house from Bai Yunzhang, the owner of the famous Baoding halal steamed bun shop (baozhi), to build the current Baoding Women's Mosque. The mosque was taken over after 1958. In the 1970s, digging an air-raid shelter under the hall caused structural damage. After it was returned in 1982, the walls began to crack. A new building was constructed on the north side during the 2015 urban renewal project, and the old hall is now used as a storage room.
34. Baoding Zhuozhou Mosque
Going to Zhuozhou, Hebei, for Friday namaz.
Hui Muslims in Zhuozhou, Baoding, Hebei, mainly live in the areas of Ximen North Street and Yingfangqian Street. The area still keeps its traditional courtyard-style housing, and the thick rammed-earth sections of the old Zhuozhou west city wall are still standing near. The local Gao family in Zhuozhou City came here with the Prince of Yan during his northern military campaign in the early Ming Dynasty. The mosque was built during the Yongle period of the Ming, renovated in the 60th year of Kangxi reign of the Qing, and the hall was rebuilt in 2000 to reach its current appearance. In front of the mosque gate stand two 350-year-old Chinese scholar trees (guohuai), and the courtyard holds several 500-year-old Chinese arborvitae (cebai), all of which witness the history of the Zhuozhou mosque.
35. Cangzhou North Mosque
[Halal Travel Review] Hebei Cangzhou in 2016
Hui Muslim merchants began settling in Cangzhou with their families as early as the Yuan. However, during the Jingnan Campaign in 1399 (the first year of the Jianwen reign of the Ming), the Prince of Yan, Zhu Di, led his army to capture the old city of Cangzhou, killing thousands of surrendered soldiers and tens of thousands of residents, and destroying the entire old city. Afterward, the Prince of Yan ordered the city of Cangzhou to be moved to Changlu by the Grand Canal and brought in residents from Shanxi, Shandong, Anhui, and other places to settle, which included many Hui Muslims.
In 1403 (the first year of the Yongle reign of the Ming), Wu Zuoyong, a Hui Muslim from Anhui, was appointed as the Assistant Magistrate of the Cangzhou Salt Transport Commission in Hejian Prefecture, Zhili, and moved to Cangzhou from Shexian County in Huizhou, Anhui. The area near the south gate of Cangzhou was once a key route to the Grand Canal. Many Hui Muslims, mostly craftspeople and small vendors, chose to live here. In 1420, during the 18th year of the Yongle reign of the Ming, the North Mosque of Cangzhou (Cangzhou Beidasi) was completed after Wu Yongzuo donated the land and oversaw its construction. This marked the official beginning of the current Hui community in Cangzhou.
36. Botou Mosque in Cangzhou
[Halal Travel Review] Botou, Hebei in 2017
Botou suffered heavy damage during the Jingnan Campaign in 1399, the first year of the Jianwen reign, and its population dropped sharply. In 1404, the second year of the Yongle reign, Emperor Zhu Di ordered residents to move to Cangzhou, which brought many Hui Muslims to Botou. Records show that seven Hui families—Yang, Cao, Dai, Hui, Zhang, Wang, and Shi—moved to Botou by imperial decree in 1404 from Erlanggang, Shangyuan County, Yingtian Prefecture in Nanjing. The first Botou Mosque was also built that year.
After that, more Hui Muslims moved here from Shandong, Shanxi, and Anhui. Botou Mosque underwent a large-scale expansion during the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, which gave it the layout it has now.
37. Hongguanying Mosque in Xingtai.
The ancient canal city of Linqing, Shandong.
Hongguanying Mosque is in Linxi County, Xingtai, Hebei, just across the Wei Canal from Linqing. Hongguanying is named after the Hong family of Hui Muslims. According to the Hong Family Genealogy of Linqing, the ancestor of the Hong Hui Muslims was Sayyid Ajjal Shams al-Din. His sixth-generation descendant, Hong Badan, served as an official in Linqing during the Ming. His descendants took Hong as their surname and settled in Linqing. One branch settled in the urban area of Linqing and built the Hong Family Mosque (North Mosque). Another branch settled in Hongguanying Village and built the Hongguanying Mosque. Hongguanying Mosque was built between the Xuande and Tianshun periods of the Ming. It was burned down in 1854 (the fourth year of the Xianfeng reign) during the Northern Expedition of the Taiping Rebellion, and it was rebuilt in its current form in 1874 (the thirteenth year of the Tongzhi reign). We were warmly welcomed at Hongguanying Mosque by Imam Lan. He is a talented Arabic calligrapher, and his scripture paintings and stone carvings are truly impressive.
38. Shanhaiguan Mosque in Qinhuangdao
In July, I visited the mosque, the sea, and the Great Wall in Shanhaiguan.
Shanhaiguan Mosque in Qinhuangdao, Hebei, sits just outside the west gate of the Shanhaiguan fortress. According to the Kangxi-era Records of Shanhaiguan, in the first month of 1381 (the 14th year of the Hongwu reign), General Xu Da sent 15,100 soldiers from the Yanshan Garrison to build 32 passes, including Yongping and Jieling. People say the original Shanhaiguan Mosque was built by the Hui Muslim soldiers brought by Xu Da. Because of this, the local Hui Muslims in Shanhaiguan have a saying: The mosque came before the Shanhaiguan Pass. The current hall of the mosque was rebuilt between 1998 and 2003. In the courtyard, there is a 600-year-old Chinese pine (yousong) planted when the mosque was built, along with a Chinese arborvitae (cebai) planted at the same time. The north wing of the mosque houses Ming and Qing dynasty brick and wood carvings removed during the 1998 renovation, and some old-fashioned mantel clocks.
Beijing
39. Gubeikou Mosque in Miyun
Visiting the old mosque in Gubeikou
Gubeikou Mosque is in Hexi Village, Gubeikou, Miyun, Beijing. Its original construction date is unknown, but a stone tablet from the Ming Chongzhen era inside the mosque says it was rebuilt in the second year of Chongzhen (1629). During the Kangxi era, Gubeikou was a key military site for Kangxi’s campaigns against the Dzungars. It was also an imperial road for his northern hunting trips and inspections, making it very important. In the 34th year of Kangxi (1695), a Hui Muslim military officer named Ma Jinliang was promoted to commander-in-chief of Gubeikou in Zhili due to his outstanding battle achievements. People called him General Ma the Hui Muslim. While in Gubeikou, Ma Jinliang led the renovation of Gubeikou Mosque. In the ninth year of Tongzhi (1870), Zheng Kuishi, a famous late Qing Dynasty general and the Gubeikou commander at the time, worked with local elders from Rehe, Dage Town (now Fengning, Chengde), and Gubeikou to donate money to rebuild the mosque's kiln hall (yaodian), turning it from one story into two.
As the imperial road fell into disrepair at the end of the Qing, Hexi Village gradually became quiet. After the 1960s, the Gubeikou Mosque was used by the brigade headquarters. It was renovated in 2004 for the Olympics, but it has not resumed religious activities since. Today, the key to the Gubeikou Mosque is held by an elderly Hui Muslim man living next door. I only managed to get inside to visit after I happened to run into him.
40. Mujiayu Mosque in Miyun (rebuilt)
A halal tour around Miyun Reservoir
Mujiayu is located northeast of Miyun's urban area. Historically, it sat on the trade route from Gubeikou and Shixia Ancient City to the center of Miyun. The Hui Muslims with the surname Mu in the village came from Tianmu Village in Tianjin. They moved to Miyun in Qianlong reign, over two hundred years ago.
In 1771 (the 36th year of Qianlong reign), Mu Guobao was arrested for accidentally injuring someone while standing up for justice at a market in Tianjin, but he was rescued by his younger brother while being escorted. The two brothers fled Tianjin and came to Mengjiayu in Miyun (now Nanmujiayu Village) to work. In less than ten years, they built a house, bought land, married, and had children. They founded Mujiayu, and Mu Guobao was the first ancestor to move there. According to research by local scholar Cao Rongxin, Mujiayu originally only had the Mu family. Later, Hui Muslims with the surname Ha fled famine and settled there. In 1958, the construction of the Miyun Reservoir flooded the ancient city of Shixia. Hui Muslims with the surnames Li, Cao, Ma, and Zhang from the ancient city, along with the Mu family from Qianchao Duzhuang (whose first ancestor was the younger brother of Mu Guobao), all moved to Mujiayu. This eventually created the current size of Mujiayu.
Mu Chaoyu, the son of the first ancestor Mu Guobao, built the Mujiayu Mosque on a small hill by the river east of the village in his later years. In 1946, the Mujiayu Mosque was seized by the armed landlord group Huohui from West Mujiayu. It was destroyed in 1948 during the liberation of Miyun, and only two pine trees remain now. After 1949, Mujiayu used compensation money to build six rooms on the west side of the village. They originally planned to rebuild the hall, but the project failed due to road construction. Later, the mosque buildings were occupied by a collective canteen and other units. It was not until 1991 that the Mujiayu Mosque was finally rebuilt on the west side of the road in the west of the village. The Mujiayu Mosque was demolished and rebuilt again in 2023. What I am showing now is the Mujiayu Mosque before it was rebuilt.
41. Changping Nankou Village Mosque
Visiting seven ancient mosques during Ramadan.
Nankou is the first gateway for Beijing to reach Datong, Xuanhua, and the Mongolian grasslands via the Jundu Pass, one of the eight passes of the Taihang Mountains. It was also the final line of defense for the capital and has been a strategic military location since ancient times. To defend against Mongol invasions, the Ming built Nankou City in 1404 (the second year of the Yongle reign), and it was renovated many times later. After the Qing, trade with the grasslands flourished, filling Nankou City with shops and a constant stream of merchants and travelers. After the Beijing-Zhangjiakou Railway was completed in 1909, the commercial importance of Nankou City was gradually replaced by Nankou Town, where the railway station was located.
Nankou Mosque is located outside the south gate of Nankou City. Its exact founding date is unknown, but it is estimated to have been built during the Ming. The mosque houses a stone tablet from the 20th year of Guangxu reign (1894) titled 'Record of the Renovation of the Nankou Mosque in Yanqing Prefecture.' It records that Imam Yang Xiaoshan from Shixia City in Miyun was hired by Nankou Mosque in 1876. He traveled everywhere to raise donations (nietie), and then renovated the south lecture hall in 1879, the north quiet room in 1880, and built a water well in 1881. In 1887, Imam Yang was hired by Shacheng Mosque in Huailai County, and Nankou Mosque hired Imam Shan Hong'en, who continued to build a water room next to the well and a main gate in the northeast corner. The current Nankou Mosque generally keeps the layout from its renovation in Guangxu reign.
Nankou Mosque closed in 1958 and has not opened since. In 2005, the Changping District Cultural Relics Management Office renovated the hall and the north quiet room. They planned to open it afterward, but it has remained closed due to disputes over the mosque's property. The Changping District Cultural Relics Management Office repaired the mosque again between 2020 and 2021.
42. Changping Wujie Mosque
Visiting seven ancient mosques during Ramadan.
Changping Wujie Mosque is also called Changping City Mosque. Legend says it was built by Chang Yuchun during his northern military campaign. It was rebuilt in the Wanli reign using stone and wood left over from building the Ming Tombs. The golden nanmu wood beams and pillars in the hall still remain now.
Changping Wujie Mosque is now the only Jahriyya mosque in Beijing. The prayer rug used by Imam Jin Zichang is still kept inside the mosque. Imam Jin Zichang comes from the Jinjiadian Daotang in Jinan, Shandong. He is the Eastern Rais of the Jahriyya and manages the religious affairs of the Jahriyya in Jiangsu, Shandong, Hebei, and the three northeastern provinces. Imam Jin's ancestor, Jin Shizhang, joined Ma Mingxin in 1770 to study Jahriyya teachings. He was later appointed as the Rais in charge of religious affairs in Shandong, Zhili, and Jiangsu, and he founded the Jinjiadian Daotang in Xiguan, Jinan. Imam Jin's great-grandfather, Jin Zhong, once managed the religious affairs of the Nanshangpo Mosque outside Chaoyangmen in Beijing and the Wujie Mosque in Changping. His grandfather, Jin Shiyi, became the Rais of the Jahriyya in Xinjiang in 1912 and helped expand the Nanda Mosque in Urumqi.
43. Heying Mosque in Changping
Visiting the tomb of the Western Region sage Bo Hazhi
The tomb of the Western Region sage Bo Hazhi is in Heying, Changping, Beijing. Locals also call it the Sheikh Baba grave. Records say Bo Hazhi came from Medina and arrived in China to spread the faith in the early years of the Hongwu reign of the Ming. He eventually passed away in Heying, Changping, and is deeply respected by Hui Muslims. Local legends say Bo Hazhi killed a giant python on Mangshan Mountain to save the people, and that he appeared in white robes to protect villagers from soldiers when the rebel leader Chuang Wang marched on Beijing.
In front of the tomb of Bo Hazhi, there are five stone tablets from the Ming and Qing dynasties. The people who set them up include General Yang Yingrui, a Hui Muslim from Niujie in Beijing during the Ming dynasty; General Ma Fang, a legendary Hui Muslim who won many battles in the mid-Ming dynasty; and Ma Jinliang, a famous Hui Muslim officer from the early Qing dynasty. The cemetery holds 68 ancient cypress trees from the Ming dynasty. Outside of the Ming Tombs, this is the best-preserved collection of Ming-era trees in Changping.
A local Hui Muslim family named Zhang has guarded the tomb of Bo Hazhi for generations. Today, the guardians are Zhang Youjin and his wife. On the south side of the cemetery stands Heying Mosque (Heying Si), built by the Zhang family in the 1930s. The imam of Heying Mosque was forced to leave after the 1960s, and since then, the building has mainly been used for visiting graves and funeral rites (mayiti). When policies were updated in the 1980s, Heying Mosque was not included in the heritage protection area along with the tomb of Bo Hazhi, so it still does not have official status as a cultural relic. Heying Mosque is now being repaired step by step, and the north building has been rebuilt.
According to a tablet record from the first year of the Xuantong reign, officials and Hui Muslims from past dynasties have come here every year on the 24th day of the third lunar month to pay respects and visit the grave, a tradition that has lasted a long time. From the Ming dynasty until now, Hui Muslims from the local area and near have come to visit the grave of the Sheikh Baba (Shaihai Baba) on the 24th day of the third lunar month without fail. On this day, we invite the imam from a near mosque to lead the scripture reading and closing prayers. The villagers slaughter sheep to make meat porridge and fry dough fritters (youxiang), making it a very grand occasion.
44. Shahe Mosque in Changping
Visiting seven ancient mosques during Ramadan.
During the Wanli reign of the Ming, the northern capital road to Zhangjiakou moved to Shahe. Hui Muslims who traded cattle and sheep began to settle in Shahe. Shahe Mosque was built during the Ming and was renovated twice, once in Guangxu reign of the Qing and once in the Republican era.
The renovation stele from the 31st year of Guangxu reign (1905) on the north side of the hall's porch records the mosque's renovation process between 1895 and 1905. The text notes that at the time, the local sheep market donated five wen from the sale of every sheep, and one hundred wen from every cow and camel, to cover the mosque's various expenses. The 1920 renovation stele on the south side of the porch records that the mosque renovated its water room in 1917. Later, they collected donations (nieti) to build the rear hall and a Western-style gate in 1920. The first donor mentioned is the Republic-era Hui Muslim general Yang Kaijia. His ancestral home was Dachang, Hebei, and he served for a long time as a military guard for Yuan Shikai. He was promoted to lieutenant general for his many contributions. Most of the names that follow are various businesses, many from Madian outside Deshengmen. The most famous one among them is likely Donglaishun.
45. Xiguanshi Mosque in Changping
Xiguanshi Mosque
Visiting old mosques in Beijing during the Islamic New Year
Xiguanshi Mosque in Changping, Beijing, was built in 1494 (the seventh year of the Hongzhi reign of the Ming). The hall was rebuilt in 1709 (the forty-eighth year of Kangxi reign), the main gate in 1723 (the first year of the Yongzheng reign), the hall rooms in 1732 (the tenth year of the Yongzheng reign), and the kiln hall (yaodian) in 1761 (the twenty-sixth year of Qianlong reign). It was renovated many times in Guangxu reign and the Republican era.
On August 15, 1900, the Eight-Nation Alliance entered Beijing. Empress Dowager Cixi and the Guangxu Emperor left the city to head west, arriving at Xiguanshi by evening. Hui Muslim Li Xilun from Xiguanshi led a group to welcome the imperial party south of the village. He guided Cixi and her entourage to stay at Xiguanshi Mosque, where they were received by Imam Cai Wanchun. Afterward, Empress Dowager Cixi slept in the hall, Emperor Guangxu and his consorts slept in the side halls, and the rest of the group stayed in near private homes. The next day, Li Xijun, the owner of the Xiguangyu Escort Agency in Xiguanshi, prepared twenty mule-drawn sedan chairs, several silver ingots, and grain for Cixi’s group. A villager named Yang Juchuan volunteered to lead the way, and Li Jintang provided protection for the journey to the next stop. Two years later, Cixi returned to Beijing and donated silver to renovate the Xiguanshi mosque. She also ordered the imperial kilns at Liulihe to fire glazed tiles, roof finials, and ridge beasts, which were gifted to the Xiguanshi mosque and the mosque in Gaotou Village, Wuji County, the hometown of Imam Cai Wanchun.
Cixi inscribed a plaque for the Xiguanshi mosque that read 'Linggan Zhaozhu' (Manifestation of Spiritual Inspiration), Guangxu inscribed 'Zhongshu Qinshang' (Loyalty Dedicated to the Sovereign), Prince Su Shanqi inscribed 'Qingxu Weidao' (Pure and Void Taste of the Way), and Prince Li inscribed 'Aomiao Wuqiong' (Infinite Profundity). She also bestowed the title 'Marquis of Leading the Way' upon Yang Juchuan for his service, and granted Li Jintang the rank of a second-grade official with a peacock feather, serving as a candidate for a circuit intendant in Zhejiang. Others, including village elder Li Xilun and Imam Cai Wanchun, were awarded fifth, sixth, and seventh-grade official buttons. In 1958, when the communal canteen was established, the plaques from the hall were taken down and used as cutting boards, and their whereabouts are now unknown. After the 1960s, the hall was turned into a warehouse, and all the plaques and couplets were burned. Every building except for the hall and the front gate was demolished, until the site was restored and reopened in 1982.
46. Anheqiao Mosque in Haidian
Anheqiao Mosque in Haidian, Beijing, sits by Xiangshan Road at the southern foot of Hongshan Mountain. It was built at the end of the Ming. During Kangxi reign, the Qing built the Three Hills and Five Gardens in western Beijing. Many Hui Muslims settled in Anheqiao and expanded the mosque. It had several renovations during the Qianlong and Guangxu periods and the Republican era. In 1950, the mosque moved to make way for the Jingmi Diversion Canal. It moved again between 2003 and 2005 due to the construction of the Fifth Ring Road, resulting in its current four-story, octagonal pavilion-style hall.
47. Shucun Mosque in Haidian
Visiting old mosques in Beijing during autumn
Shucun Mosque in Beijing is located outside the north gate of the Old Summer Palace. It was built during the Kangxi (or possibly Yongzheng) reign. In 1873 (the 12th year of the Tongzhi reign), a eunuch named Ma donated 300 taels of silver. Hui Muslims from the local community and surrounding areas—including Sanjiadian, Xiguanshi, Anheqiao, Shangqinghe, Siwangfu, Landianchang, outside Deshengmen, and Xuanhua Prefecture in Zhangjiakou—raised over 2,000 taels of silver to restore it. In the early years of the Republic, a family named Shen from outside Deshengmen donated 2,000 silver dollars and asked a village elder named Man from Shucun to lead the renovation of the hall. Shucun Mosque was occupied in the 1950s and damaged in the 1960s. It resumed activities in 1983 and has had several renovations since. Shucun Village has been demolished, and the villagers have moved into apartment buildings. The mosque grounds hold two ancient cypress trees from the Qing, one dead and one alive. Also a plaque inscribed with the words "Heaven is close at hand" (tiantang zhichi), gifted by a fourth-rank imperial bodyguard in 1873 during a renovation.
48. Haidian Madian Mosque
Madian is on the Jingbei Avenue outside Deshengmen in Beijing. Since the Ming and Qing dynasties, it has been a hub for cattle and sheep trading with a large population of Hui Muslims. The number of Hui Muslims here is no less than that of Niujie. After the Qing, hundreds of thousands of cattle, sheep, and horses entered Beijing from Mongolia via Zhangjiakou every year. Hui Muslims in Madian opened many horse and sheep shops to feed and sell these animals for a commission. Madian Mosque was built in Kangxi reign. In 1850 (the 30th year of the Daoguang reign), it was renovated with funds raised by over ten sheep and horse shops in Madian, and it was renovated again in the Republican era.
The ceremonial gate of Madian Mosque features a ridged hip-and-gable roof and a carved stone arched doorway. The hanging flower gate (chuihuamen) has a curved-shed gable-and-hip roof, and the lintels are has blue-green paintings. The hall uses a raised-beam timber frame and is spacious and bright. The arched door in front of the kiln hall (yaodian) is painted with intertwined passion flower patterns.
49. Haidian Mosque
Haidian Mosque in Beijing was built in Kangxi reign. Then, Hui Muslims from Tongzhou came to Haidian Town to sell fish and settled there. Haidian Mosque was expanded several times during the Jiaqing, Guangxu, and Republican periods. At its peak, it covered over 30 mu of land and included a vegetable garden and a cemetery. It was rebuilt into its current form in 1995. The hall consists of a curved shed, a hall, and a kiln hall (yaodian). The kiln hall has a four-cornered pointed roof with green and yellow glazed tiles with trimmed edges. There are many schools around Haidian Mosque. Every Friday prayer (Jumu'ah), hundreds of international students attend. When it is crowded, the basement, lobby, and courtyard are all packed with people, which is a spectacular sight.
50. Haidian Siwangfu Mosque
Visiting old mosques in Beijing during autumn
The Siwangfu Mosque in Haidian, Beijing, sits east of the Fragrant Hills Botanical Garden. It is shared by Hui Muslims from five near communities: Fragrant Hills (Xiangshan), Siwangfu, Mentou, Nanhetan, and Xiaotun. Legend says the Siwangfu Mosque was founded during the Qianlong era by elders from Houmenqiao and the local community. It was renovated in the Republican era, but closed in the 1960s, leaving the hall on the verge of collapse. After religious policy returned in the 1980s, the hall was torn down and its wood and bricks were sold. The north rooms and surrounding walls were rebuilt, and namaz was held in the north rooms instead. Through the hard work of local elders, the hall was finally rebuilt in 1990. Due to a construction error, the hall was moved to the east of its original site, which created the layout we see now. The courtyard is clean and tidy now, offering a glimpse of what the outskirts of Beijing felt like before.
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5 mosques in Heilongjiang
Qiqihar Buque East Mosque and Buque West Mosque
Harbin Daowai Mosque, Tatar Mosque, and Acheng Mosque
1 mosque in Jilin
Changchun Changtong Road Mosque
12 mosques in Liaoning
Tieling Kaiyuan Old City Mosque
Shenyang South Mosque, East Mosque, and Xinmin Mosque
Fengcheng Mosque in Dandong
Qingdui Mosque and Fuzhou Mosque in Dalian
Xinlitun Mosque, Beizhen Mosque, and Luyang Mosque in Jinzhou
Lingyuan Mosque in Chaoyang
Suizhong Mosque in Huludao
4 mosques in Inner Mongolia
North Mosque (Beidasi) in Chifeng
Longshengzhuang Mosque in Ulanqab
Hohhot Great Mosque and East Mosque
16 mosques in Hebei
Chengde West Mosque and Pingquan Mosque
Zhangjiakou Xinhua Street Mosque, Xiguan Mosque, Tu'ergou Mosque, Xuanhua South Great Mosque, Xuanhua North Mosque, and Xuanhua Middle Mosque
Baoding West Mosque, East Mosque, Women's Mosque, and Zhuozhou Mosque
Cangzhou North Great Mosque and Botou Mosque
Xingtai Hongguanying Mosque
Qinhuangdao Shanhaiguan Mosque
12 mosques in Beijing (continued in the next part)
Gubeikou Mosque and Mujia Yu Mosque in Miyun
Nankou Mosque, Wujie Mosque, Heying Mosque, Shahe Mosque, and Xiguanshi Mosque in Changping
Anheqiao Mosque, Shucun Mosque, Madian Mosque, Haidian Mosque, and Siwangfu Mosque in Haidian
Heilongjiang
1. Bukui East Mosque in Qiqihar
Bukui Ancient Mosque and the Hui community in Qiqihar, Heilongjiang
Bukui East Mosque in Qiqihar is the oldest mosque in Heilongjiang. The most common story is that it was built in 1676 by over 40 Hui families who moved to Bukui Village from Shandong and Hebei. Another theory says it was built in 1700 by the Wang and Xia families, who were Hui Muslims from Jinan, Shandong, and moved to Qiqihar with the Heilongjiang Naval Battalion. The original Bukui Mosque was just a thatched hut. It was rebuilt many times during the Jiaqing and Guangxu eras, eventually reaching its current size.
The most unique part of the East Mosque is the Moon-Sighting Tower (Wangyuelou) above the rear hall. It is a three-story structure with a four-cornered pointed roof and intricate brick carvings. On the east side, there is a plaque that reads 'Tianfang Jiejing'. The copper lotus-base gourd finial on top of the hall was added during the major renovation of the Bukui East Mosque in 1893 (the 19th year of the Guangxu era). People say Ma Wanliang bought it from a Tibetan Buddhist mosque near Zhangjiakou. Local legend says the finial was not installed until after the Republican era because it was taller than the near mansion of the Yikeming'an Eighth Prince.
2. Qiqihar
Bukui West Mosque
Bukui Ancient Mosque and the Hui community in Qiqihar, Heilongjiang
The Bukui West Mosque in Qiqihar, Heilongjiang, belongs to the Jahriyya order. In 1817, the third-generation leader (murshid) of the Jahriyya, Ma Datian, was sentenced to exile in Qiqihar, Heilongjiang. Twelve families led by Master Niu volunteered to take his place and followed him into exile. Ma Datian passed away while passing through the Jilin Shipyard. He was honored as the Shipyard Master (Chuanchang Taiye) from then on, while the 12 families continued their exile to Qiqihar. After arriving in Qiqihar, the 12 families were welcomed by the local Gedimu community. In 1852, they built the West Mosque (Bukuixi Si) on the west side of the Bukui Mosque, making it the only Jahriyya mosque in Heilongjiang.
The mosque keeps a banner inscribed with the words 'Benevolence, Loyalty, and Harmony.' It reads: 'In memory of the 50th anniversary of the passing of the late Imam Niu Chenggong, offered by his humble juniors Ma Yongcai and Ma Yongzhi on the 13th day of the eighth lunar month in the 14th year of Guangxu reign.' Imam Niu Chenggong is the same Master Niu who volunteered to take the blame and follow the Shipyard Master to Qiqihar. Master Niu was originally an imam from the Lingwu area of Wuzhong. Many stories of his miracles during the journey to Qiqihar are widely told among the Jahriyya menhuan. Every year, Jahriyya followers from places like Ningxia and Gansu travel thousands of miles to Qiqihar to visit Master Niu's grave.
3. Harbin Daowai Mosque
Daowai Mosque in Harbin and the century-old Laoguo Family Restaurant
Daowai Mosque, also known as the East Mosque or Binjiang Mosque, started in 1897 (the 23rd year of Guangxu reign) when five thatched rooms were bought on South 12th Street. It was rebuilt in 1904. In the early 1930s, Imam Ma Songting proposed a new building. Head Imam Bai Yusheng traveled around to collect donations (nietie) and hired Russian designers, the Krabryov siblings, to build the current hall of Daowai Mosque in 1935.
Daowai Mosque has a strong Russian style. Its Roman columns and onion domes modeled after Russian architecture are unique, making it a standout piece of mosque architecture from the Republican era.
The classic Russian onion dome actually started in the Middle East. The earliest visible onion domes appear in Syrian mosaic images from the Arab Umayyad Caliphate (661–750 AD), and the earliest physical examples were built by the Seljuk Empire in Iran during the 11th century. Historians are not sure when Russia started using onion domes. Some scholars guess they learned it from the mosques of the Kazan Tatars after Russia conquered the Kazan Khanate in the 16th century, while others think they developed from Byzantine domes.
4. Harbin Tatar Mosque
The history of Harbin Tatar Mosque
Construction of the Chinese Eastern Railway began in 1897 with Harbin as its center. After that, many Tatars from Russia came to live and work along the railway line. Tatars began settling in Harbin in 1901 and built the first wooden Tatar mosque that same year. As the Tatar population grew, they rebuilt the mosque using brick in 1906. The number of Tatar immigrants in Harbin rose after 1917, reaching over a thousand in the 1920s. Most of them made a living by trading furs, textiles, and clothing.
To mark the 1,000th anniversary of their ancestors, the Volga Bulgars, converting to Islam in 922 AD, the Harbin Tatars decided to build a new mosque. Construction of the new mosque started in 1923, but it stalled for a time due to the imam passing away, political instability, and poor management of funds. In 1936, Imam Münir Hasibullah traveled to every place where Tatars lived in the Far East to collect donations (niatie). The Millennium Mosque finally opened on October 8, 1937. After the Soviet Union entered Northeast China in 1945, most Harbin Tatars chose to move to the United States, Canada, and Turkey. By 1960, fewer than five Tatars remained in Harbin, and the Harbin Tatar community officially dissolved.
5. Acheng Mosque in Harbin
The beautiful Acheng Mosque in Heilongjiang
In 1770, a Hui Muslim named Yang Huaxian from Shen County, Shandong, settled in Acheng with the Qing army. Afterward, more Hui Muslims moved from Shandong to Acheng and rented homes from Manchu bannermen. By 1777, there were 26 (some say 28) Hui Muslim households in Acheng, including the Yang, Wang, San, Ma, Zhang, Ding, Jin, and Cai families. They rented houses and established the first Acheng Mosque, with Yang Huaxian serving as the mosque elder. In 1802, elder Yang Huaxian negotiated the purchase of land to build a formal Acheng Mosque. Construction took 50 years, spanning the Jiaqing, Daoguang, and Xianfeng reigns. In 1873, 12 years after the mosque was completed, a fire in Acheng destroyed the moon-sighting tower (wangyuelou) and the north lecture hall, leaving only the south lecture hall and the reception hall. In 1890, the mosque's imam, Liu Yuzhang, and manager Luo Yuzhang began organizing the reconstruction of the mosque. It took 10 years to complete the current structure in 1900.
Inside the hall of Acheng Mosque, there is a beautiful pulpit (minbar). It is actually one of two models built in 1890 for the reconstruction of the mosque's moon-sighting tower (wangyuelou). After the mosque elders discussed it, they chose the style of the other model, so this one was used as the pulpit (minbar).
Jilin
6. Changchun Changtong Road Mosque
Hand-pulled noodles (chenmian) in Nanguan, Changchun, and the Changtong Road Mosque
The Qing Dynasty relaxed its ban on Jilin in the early 19th century in Jiaqing reign. In 1800 (the fifth year of Jiaqing), Changchun Subprefecture was established in Changchunbao. Hui Muslims began moving to Changchun at this time, and because most came from Shandong, they were called the Shandong Group.
Changchun Changtong Road Mosque was built in 1824 (the fourth year of Daoguang). It was originally located inside the east gate of Dongsandao Street. In 1852 (the second year of Xianfeng), elder Han Xuecheng and Gong Wanmei donated houses, and elder Shi Xuecheng donated trees to move the mosque to its current location in Tielingtun. In 1864 (the third year of Tongzhi), Imam Han Dengqing and others raised funds to expand the mosque, building the current five-room hall and the three-story rear hall (yaodian). In 1889 (the 15th year of Guangxu reign), Imam Han Laixiang bought land from the Xu family in front of the mosque. He built the main gate tower, east and west side rooms, a north lecture hall, an east reception hall, and a front porch for the hall. The mosque was expanded several more times in the Republican era.
Liaoning
7. Old City Mosque in Kaiyuan, Tieling
A tour of three mosques in Liaoning: Lingyuan, Shenyang, and Kaiyuan
The Old City Mosque in Kaiyuan, Tieling, is inside the east gate of the old city of Kaiyuan. It was built in 1406 (the 4th year of the Yongle reign of the Ming) and is the oldest mosque in Northeast China. The current hall follows the style of the 1680 (the 19th year of Kangxi reign) reconstruction. It consists of a vaulted porch, the hall, and a hexagonal pavilion-style prayer niche (yaodian), which is similar in style to the South Mosque in Shenyang. The reception hall of the Old City Mosque stores old items, including drip tiles, eave tiles, roof ridge beasts, and carved wooden railings from the hall. It also holds the finial from the moon-sighting tower (wangyuelou) of the prayer niche and a plaque inscribed with the words 'Ling Luo Sha Juan' (fine silks and satins).
8. South Mosque in Shenyang
A tour of three mosques in Liaoning: Lingyuan, Shenyang, and Kaiyuan
Shenyang South Mosque was built in 1636, the first year of the Chongde reign of the Qing. The ancestors of the Tie family who founded it were Hui Muslims from Central Asia who arrived in China during the Mongol western campaigns. In the early Ming Dynasty, Tie Xuan served as a provincial official in Jinan. During the Jingnan Campaign, he led troops to defend the city of Jinan. After the Prince of Yan broke through the city, Tie Xuan was captured and executed by dismemberment. After Tie Xuan returned to Allah, his second son, Tie Fushu, fled outside the Great Wall. During the Wanli reign (1573-1620), he moved from Jinzhou to Shenyang.
In 1662, the first year of Kangxi reign, Tie Kui expanded Shenyang South Mosque. He invited the famous imam She Yuanshan from Beijing to set up a school there. After Imam She's student, Tie Hongji, finished his studies, he became the leader of the mosque. From then on, the position of imam at the South Mosque was passed down through the Tie family for 11 generations. The last imam, Tie Zizhang, served until 1956.
The rear hall of the mosque was expanded in 1902. The hall is not the traditional T-shape but a hexagonal kiln-style hall. This design, which adds a loft-style kiln hall to the back of the hall, is common in the Northeast region.
9. Shenyang East Mosque
A tour of three mosques in Liaoning: Lingyuan, Shenyang, and Kaiyuan
Shenyang East Mosque was built in 1803 (the eighth year of Jiaqing reign). In 1935, the hall was rebuilt in a Western style, but the Moon-Sighting Tower (wangyuelou) kept its original Chinese style. The East Mosque was taken over in 1958, returned in 1980, and became the Shenyang Islamic Institute (Shenyang jingxueyuan) in 1988.
10. Shenyang Xinmin Mosque
[Liaoning Trip during Dragon Boat Festival] Strolling through the morning market in Shenyang and visiting an old mosque in Xinmin.
Xinmin is in the northwest of Shenyang. During the early years of Qianlong reign of the Qing, many new immigrants came here to farm after crossing the border, which is how it got the name 'Xinmin'. Many Hui Muslims came to Xinmin in Qianlong reign, and they built the Xinmin Mosque in Nanyingzi in 1765 (the thirtieth year of Qianlong reign). The Xinmin Mosque burned down in 1866 (the fifth year of the Tongzhi reign) and was rebuilt in 1883 (the ninth year of Guangxu reign), which is the structure we see now.
The main structure of Xinmin Mosque consists of a porch (juanpeng), the hall, a rear vaulted hall (yaodian), and the Moon-Sighting Tower (wangyuelou) on top of the vaulted hall. The Moon-Sighting Tower has a double-eaved, four-cornered pointed roof, topped with a 1.5-meter-tall copper wind-mill finial. The beams of the porch are painted with Suzhou-style patterns, and the wooden screens feature intricate openwork carvings.
11. Fengcheng Mosque in Dandong
[Dragon Boat Festival Trip to Liaoning] Fengcheng Ancient Mosque and Dandong Food
Fengcheng Mosque was built in 1775 (the 40th year of Qianlong reign). It was renovated in 1862 (the 1st year of the Tongzhi reign), and in 1876 (the 2nd year of Guangxu reign), the north lecture hall was rebuilt and side rooms were added. In 1890 (the 16th year of Guangxu reign), the Moon-Sighting Tower was added, giving the mosque its current size. The most unique feature of Fengcheng Mosque is the Moon-Sighting Tower, built in Guangxu reign. It has a double-eaved, four-cornered pointed roof with elegant upturned eaves, brackets, and finely carved decorative brackets (que-ti).
12. Qingdui Mosque in Dalian
[Dragon Boat Festival Trip to Liaoning] Dalian City, Fuzhou Ancient City, and Qingdui Ancient Town
Qingdui Town is a thousand-year-old town that has served as a fishing port and commercial hub on the Liaodong Peninsula since the Tang Dynasty. Qingbu Port officially opened in 1743 (the eighth year of Qianlong reign), making Qingdui Town an important transit point for people from Shandong and Hebei migrating to the Northeast. During the late Qing Dynasty and the Republican era, Qingdui Town was home to over three hundred businesses, with shops lining the streets and bustling with activity. Today, Qingdui Town still preserves many old houses with green bricks and dark tiles from the late Qing and Republican periods, and Qingdui Mosque (Qingdui Si) is one of them.
Qingdui Mosque was built in the Daoguang reign of the Qing, starting as just three thatched rooms. In July 1894, the First Sino-Japanese War broke out, and the famous Hui Muslim general Zuo Baogui led his troops to Korea to fight the Japanese, passing by Qingdui Mosque on the way. General Zuo Baogui got along very well with Imam Zhang Chaozhen of Qingdui Mosque. Later, he donated money, and with additional funds raised by his personal Hui Muslim guards and three local halal restaurants—Deshengyuan, Qingshengyuan, and Yongshengyuan—they worked together to expand the mosque. It is a pity that General Zuo Baogui died heroically fighting the Japanese in Pyongyang before the expansion of Qingdui Mosque was finished.
In 1895 (the 21st year of Guangxu reign), Hui Wanchun, the elder in charge of Qingdui Mosque, led the rebuilding of the hall into the three-room green brick and tile structure we see now. In 1920 (the 9th year of the Republic), the gatehouse was rebuilt and the lecture hall was expanded, giving the mosque its current size.
Above the gate of Qingdui Mosque is a brick-carved couplet that reads: 'The pure palace spreads the teachings of the Muhammadan path, the true sage passes down scriptures that bring grace from the Western Regions.' This is a very precious piece of Republic-era brick-carved calligraphy. The main gate is usually closed, so you have to enter the mosque through the south wing where the imam lives. The imam is from Gansu, and he warmly told us about the history of Qingdui Mosque; it is not easy for his family to stay here and keep this small community mosque running.
13. Fuzhou Mosque in Dalian
[Dragon Boat Festival Trip to Liaoning] Dalian City, Fuzhou Ancient City, and Qingdui Ancient Town
In the early Qing Dynasty, Hui Muslims with the surnames Yin, Dai, Ma, and Hui arrived in Fuzhou. In 1649, the sixth year of the Shunzhi reign, they began planning the Fuzhou Mosque. By 1656, the thirteenth year of the Shunzhi reign, they finished building three thatched rooms to serve as the hall. The hall was rebuilt in 1774, the thirty-ninth year of Qianlong reign, and expanded again in 1880, the sixth year of Guangxu reign, though it still had a thatched roof. In 1920, the front porch and rear kiln-style hall were added, and the roof was changed to grey brick tiles, creating the structure seen now.
Hanging in front of the Fuzhou Mosque hall is a plaque inscribed with the words "Return to Simplicity and Truth" (Huan Pu Gui Zhen). It was presented in 1897, the twenty-third year of Guangxu reign, by Wang Tingxiang, a high-ranking official who held several titles including Imperial Censor of the Jiangnan Circuit and Commissioner of Education for Shanxi.
14. Xinlitun Mosque in Jinzhou
[Dragon Boat Festival Trip to Liaoning] The ancient town of Xinlitun in western Liaoning and the coal city of Fuxin
Xinlitun is an ancient town in western Liaoning, known as the "First Town Beyond the Frontier." During the Daoguang period of the Qing, Hui Muslims from places like Jinzhou, Yixian, Heishan, and Yingkou came to settle in Xinlitun. They built the Xinlitun Mosque in 1842.
On the 15th day of the first lunar month in 1873, Xinlitun held a stilt-walking festival. During the event, a conflict broke out between a Manchu banner man named Dashan, also known as Fifth Master Da, and Hui Muslims including Liu Hua, Zhao Guang'en, and Wang Yao. This escalated into a clash between the Manchu and Hui communities, which ended with the Xinlitun Mosque being burned down. Afterward, both the Manchu and Hui communities learned from the incident and decided to rebuild the Xinlitun Mosque. After several years of preparation, General Zuo Baogui, an anti-Japanese hero who led the Fengtian Army, took the lead by donating 300 taels of silver to finally complete the reconstruction.
15. Beizhen Mosque in Jinzhou
Visiting an old mosque in Jinzhou, Liaoning
The Beizhen Mosque was built in 1522, expanded in 1617, and renovated again in 1798. Beizhen Mosque was once inside the south wall of Guangning City. During Qianlong reign, the south wall was abandoned when the city was rebuilt. The wall slowly disappeared, and later Guangning City was renamed Beizhen City. This turned Beizhen Mosque from a city mosque into one located outside the city walls.
Beizhen Mosque follows the traditional northern mosque layout of a porch (juanpeng), hall (dadian), and rear niche (yaodian). Unusually, the porch and the hall are separate structures and do not connect. The beams and brackets are painted with floral patterns, and the wood carvings are very fine and detailed.
16. Luyang Mosque in Jinzhou
Visiting an old mosque in Jinzhou, Liaoning
Luyang Mosque in Jinzhou, Liaoning, was built in 1531 (the tenth year of the Jiajing reign of the Ming). It was rebuilt in the Xianfeng reign of the Qing and reached its current form in 1925. Manager Wang of the Luyang Enliyong pastry shop oversaw the construction. He invited Yang Peiran (Yuchun), who was a brigade commander in the Northeast Army at the time, to help raise the funds. Luyang Mosque is a rare historic mosque in China that features a moon-viewing tower (wangyuelou) placed directly above the hall. You can climb up to the tower to view the moon using a hanging wooden ladder. A plaque inscribed by the anti-Japanese hero General Zuo Baogui once hung in front of the hall, but it was destroyed. The current plaque was inscribed in 1984.
17. Lingyuan Mosque in Chaoyang
A tour of three mosques in Liaoning: Lingyuan, Shenyang, and Kaiyuan
Lingyuan City in Chaoyang, Liaoning, sits at the border of Hebei, Liaoning, and Inner Mongolia. It was originally called Tazigou. Since the Qianlong era of the Qing, Hui Muslims from Shandong and Hebei kept traveling through the Great Wall gaps near Xifengkou to reach the northeast. Lingyuan was their first stop after crossing the wall, and some Hui Muslims settled there. Lingyuan Mosque was built during the Qianlong era. According to stone inscriptions in the mosque, a Hui Muslim doctor named Zhang Lichen and others cured the illness of a Mongol prince from the Harqin Left Banner. The prince's estate then provided the land and silver to build the Lingyuan Mosque.
18. Suizhong Mosque in Huludao
The mosque and halal snacks in Suizhong, Liaoning
Suizhong County in Huludao, Liaoning, sits right next to Shanhai Pass and is the southwesternmost county in Liaoning Province. Starting in the 18th century, more than ten families of Hui Muslims, including the Zhang, Ding, Li, and Jin families, moved to Suizhong from Hebei Province. The first Suizhong mosque was built in 1737 (the second year of Qianlong reign) below the Kuixing Tower in the southeast of the city. It moved to its current location inside the West Gate in 1797 (the third year of Jiaqing reign) and took on its present form after being rebuilt between 1924 and 1927.
Inner Mongolia
19. Chifeng North Mosque
Chifeng North Mosque in Inner Mongolia and halal food
During the early Qing Dynasty, Hui Muslims from Shandong and Hebei continuously traveled through Gubeikou and Chengde to reach eastern Inner Mongolia to make a living. In the 1730s, ten Hui families with the surnames Zhang, Ma, and Bai moved from Shandong and Hebei to settle in Chifeng, where they became known as the ten great Hui families or the 'mountain-claiming households' (zhanshanhu). In 1739 (the fourth year of Qianlong reign), village elder Zhang Yueming from Chifeng led the effort to lease seven point six mu of land from Mongolian princes. They built five mud houses and a three-room hall, which became the earliest Chifeng Mosque.
In 1742 (the seventh year of Qianlong reign), village elder Ma Fen, who once ran the Desheng Security Firm in Shenyang, initiated the renovation of Chifeng Mosque. He paid for a plot of land, and the imam along with several village elders traveled to various places to collect donations through written requests (nietie). Afterward, Ma Fen went to Shenyang to hire craftsmen. Construction took four years and finished in 1747 (the twelfth year of Qianlong reign). All the wood used came from red pine trees on the south mountain of Chifeng. From then on, the imam of the North Mosque was always a scripture reader from the Ma family line.
20. Longshengzhuang Mosque in Ulanqab
Longshengzhuang, a former trading town for Shanxi merchants traveling to Mongolia.
Longshengzhuang is on the border between Shanxi and Inner Mongolia. From the Qing to the early Republic of China, it was an important trading hub for Shanxi merchants traveling to Mongolia. During the early Qing Dynasty, Hui Muslims from Hebei and Shandong kept moving to Longshengzhuang for business. In the late Qing Dynasty, many Hui Muslims from Shaanxi also migrated there. During the reign of the Guangxu Emperor in the Qing, the Hui Muslim population in Longshengzhuang grew to two or three thousand people, reaching a peak of over five thousand in the early years of the Republic. Then, Longshengzhuang had nearly twenty businesses, including a large halal restaurant (qingzhen dafanzhuang), livestock traders, brokers, and inns for travelers with horses.
Longshengzhuang Mosque was built in 1751. It started with only three halls. As more Muslims came here for business, they added a hall, a front gate, a second gate, side rooms, and a screen wall in 1831, creating a three-courtyard layout. The arched porch (juanpeng) of Longshengzhuang Mosque was expanded in 1926 and features beautiful ironwork decorations from the Republican era.
21. Hohhot Great Mosque
Summer halal food tour in Hohhot
Hohhot Great Mosque was built between the end of the Ming and the beginning of the Qing. It was expanded in 1789 (the 54th year of Qianlong reign) and again in 1923. The mosque gate was built in 1892 (the 18th year of Guangxu reign). Above it hangs a plaque inscribed with "Great Mosque" (Qingzhen Dasi) from 1890 (the 16th year of Guangxu reign), with plaques reading "National Prosperity" (Guotai) and "Peace for the People" (Min'an) on either side. Inside the entrance, you can see a brick-carved screen wall behind the hall. It was built in 1896 (the 22nd year of Guangxu reign) and is inscribed with phrases meaning "rectify the heart and be sincere in self-cultivation," "recognize the oneness of Allah," "brighten the heart," and "see one's true nature." These were written by Ma Fuxiang, who served as the Suiyuan Military Governor in 1924. The hall was expanded in 1923 and consists of a porch, a front hall, a middle hall, and a rear kiln-style hall. The roof features a connected structure with four gables and five pointed pavilions, which symbolize the five pillars of Islam: faith, prayer (namaz), fasting, charity, and pilgrimage. The porch blends Chinese and Western styles with arched doorways. The walls are has Arabic plaques, couplets, and floral patterns. The Moon-Sighting Tower (Wangyue Lou) was built in 1939. It stands 36 meters tall with a hexagonal brick base and a single-eave hexagonal pointed roof at the top.
22. Hohhot East Mosque
Summer halal food tour in Hohhot
Hohhot East Mosque was built in Kangxi reign of the Qing. It started as a school and was expanded into a mosque in Guangxu reign. The current building was rebuilt in 2014.
Hebei
23. West Mosque (Xisi) in Chengde
Mosques and halal food in Chengde
Hui Muslims began settling in Chengde after the Qing built the Mountain Resort. Whenever Emperor Kangxi held the Mulan autumn hunt or visited the resort to escape the summer heat, Hui Muslim soldiers and merchants followed him. In the early years of the Yongzheng reign, the Qing government stationed Green Standard Army troops in Chengde. Because most soldiers came from Shaanxi, it was called the Shaanxi Camp, and the Left Camp within it was mostly made up of Hui Muslims. From then on, the Shaanxi Camp became the main residential area for Hui Muslims in Chengde.
By the Qianlong era, Chengde had become a major city in the north. Hui Muslims from Shandong and Hebei came to do business, working in the food industry and cattle and sheep slaughtering, a movement known as 'chasing the imperial camp'. Today, the ten major surnames of Chengde's Hui Muslims, including Wang, Ma, Shi, and Chen, all moved here from Shandong. The Wu family moved from Cangzhou, Hebei, and the Kong family moved from Beijing. The earliest mosque in Chengde, the East Mosque (Dongsi), was built in Kangxi reign and was occupied in 1958. The existing West Mosque (Xisi) was built in the Daoguang reign. The hall consists of a porch (juanpeng), a hall, and a rear niche (yaodian). The moon-sighting tower (wangyuelou) is on top of the hall, topped with a decorative finial (baoding).
24. Pingquan Mosque in Chengde
Go to the small town of Pingquan outside the Great Wall to drink lamb bone broth (yangtang).
The South Street Mosque in Pingquan, Hebei, was built in 1647 (the fourth year of the Shunzhi reign of the Qing) and originally consisted of only three thatched rooms. As the number of Hui Muslims in Pingquan grew in Qianlong reign, the mosque's imam, Zhang Hongye, and his son, Zhang Jin, traveled to Beijing in 1742 (the seventh year of Qianlong reign). They made a model out of straw based on a mosque outside Qihua Gate (it is not verified whether it was the one at Nan Shangpo or Nan Xiapo) and brought it back to Pingquan to hire craftsmen to build the mosque. In 1915, Wu Zijian, the head of the Pingquan branch of the Islamic Promotion Association, led a renovation of the mosque.
25. Xinhua Street Mosque in Zhangjiakou
Mosques and halal food in Zhangjiakou and Xuanhua
Xinhua Street Mosque in Zhangjiakou was originally called Shenggou Mosque. It was built in 1863, the second year of the Tongzhi reign, by over eighty Hui families from Ningxia who had taken refuge in Zhangjiakou. Because these people mainly worked in the camel transport trade, Xinhua Street Mosque is also known as Camel Caravan Mosque (Tuofang Si).
These Hui Muslims were mostly from the Ma, Liu, Li, Du, Wu, Wang, and Ding families. They used camels to transport furs, silk, and tea for merchants, traveling between Inner Mongolia, Shanxi, Gansu, Mongolia, and Russia. They first built a simple hall next to a business called Baoshun Camel Shop. It reached its current size at Xinhua Street Mosque after several expansions. In front of the hall of Xinhua Street Mosque, there are beautiful stone railings with pillar tops carved into the shape of fruit plates. All the large pine beams and pillars in the hall were brought from Mongolia, serving as a witness to the camel transport trade in Zhangjiakou.
26. Xiguan Mosque in Zhangjiakou
Mosques and halal food in Zhangjiakou and Xuanhua
The Xiguan Mosque in Zhangjiakou was built during the reign of Emperor Yongzheng (1723-1735) by Hui Muslims from the Xiao, Zheng, Song, and Wang families who had lived in the Xiabao area of Zhangjiakou since the Ming and Qing dynasties. It had several renovations during the Qianlong, Jiaqing, and Daoguang eras. The original mihrab inside the hall of the Xiguan Mosque was destroyed due to historical events, and it could not be restored for a long time due to a lack of records. Fortunately, the mosque management committee kept searching and recently found a clear photo in a foreign book. In June 2020, they invited the famous Arabic calligrapher Wang Qifei to restore the Ming-style calligraphy on the mihrab. At the same time, he used Ming-style calligraphy to write the 99 Names of Allah on the caisson ceiling of the arched hall.
27. Turgou Mosque in Zhangjiakou
Mosques and halal food in Zhangjiakou and Xuanhua
After the Beijing-Zhangjiakou Railway opened, the Qiaodong area of Zhangjiakou became prosperous. Hui Muslims with the surnames Yang, Chen, He, and Ma, who moved from the Dachang and Sanhe areas of Hebei, raised funds to build the Turgou Mosque in 1917. It was known as the Beijing and Jingdong Fangshang. The current hall was rebuilt in 1990.
28. Xuanhua South Mosque in Zhangjiakou
Mosques and halal food in Zhangjiakou and Xuanhua
The South Mosque (Nandasi) in Xuanhua, Zhangjiakou, Hebei, was built in 1403 (the first year of the Yongle reign of the Ming). In 1820 (the 25th year of Jiaqing reign of the Qing), Hui Muslims from the Ding, Shan, and Yu families decided to move it to Miaodi Street. Then, they dismantled the gate, plaques, and Moon-Watching Tower (Wangyuelou) from the Ming mosque and moved them to the new site. Construction finished in 1854 (the fourth year of the Xianfeng reign of the Qing), making it the largest mosque in Zhangjiakou.
After the 1960s, the South Mosque suffered severe damage. The Moon-Watching Tower, corridors, stone arch bridge, and memorial archway were torn down, and all historical stone tablets, plaques, and couplets were destroyed. Restoration was finally completed between 2004 and 2007.
The South Mosque is laid out symmetrically along an east-west axis, with 15 halls and pavilions forming a complete architectural complex. Entering the main gate leads to a courtyard with a stone arch bridge in the center. Directly ahead is the Heart-Reflecting Tower (Shengxinlou), which has a hallway on the ground floor. The Moon-Watching Tower features upturned eaves with bracket sets and a double-eaved, hexagonal, pointed roof. The Moon-Watching Tower connects to the north and south lecture halls through covered corridors. The hall consists of a front porch (juanpeng), a hall, and a rear niche (yaodian). It uses a traditional timber frame structure with hardwood palace lanterns hanging from the beams. During Ramadan each year, all the lanterns are lit, making the hall as bright as day. Four pillars support the 17.6-meter-high roof of the rear niche (yaodian). The roof of the rear niche (yaodian) is an octagonal pointed structure with upturned eaves and a decorative caisson ceiling (zaojing) inside.
29. Xuanhua North Mosque in Zhangjiakou
Mosques and halal food in Zhangjiakou and Xuanhua
Xuanhua North Mosque in Zhangjiakou, Hebei, was built in 1722 (the 61st year of Kangxi reign of the Qing). The side rooms and auxiliary halls were rebuilt in 1860 and 1865. The North Mosque originally featured a gate tower, a minaret (xuanlilou), corridors, north and south side rooms, and a hall, all has ornate carvings and paintings. The hall is unique because the front porch (juanpeng), hall, and rear niche (yaodian) form a cross-shaped floor plan. The overall structure is shallow and wide, which is very different from the long and deep halls common in eastern regions, but is actually more common in Xinjiang. The kiln-style hall (yaodian) is also unique, featuring a square, multi-story roof built on top of the arched shed structure.
After the 1960s, the North Mosque suffered severe damage. The gate tower, side gate, perimeter walls, hanging flower gate (chuihuamen), corridors, and minaret were all torn down and have not been restored to this day. Currently, the hall and the north and south side rooms are rented out as warehouses. The roof of the kiln-style hall has collapsed, and the north side hall and the ablution room (shuifang) were converted into a workshop for a halal pastry factory, which still occupies the space.
30. Xuanhua Middle Mosque in Zhangjiakou
Mosques and halal food in Zhangjiakou and Xuanhua
Located between the North Mosque and the South Mosque, the Xuanhua Middle Mosque in Zhangjiakou, Hebei, is smaller in scale. It was built in 1821 (the first year of the Daoguang reign of the Qing) and underwent renovations in 2016.
31. Baoding West Mosque
The ancient mosques and halal food of Baoding
The West Mosque in Baoding, Hebei, was built in 1616 (the 44th year of the Wanli reign of the Ming). According to the stone inscriptions in the mosque, a man named Fa Gong from Hanji Village in Fangshan served as a military officer in Baoding during the Wanli years. He noticed there was no mosque in the city, which meant local Hui Muslims had to travel elsewhere for prayers during Eid (Erde). He bought 12 mu of land from the Wei family vegetable garden to build one. Besides building the mosque, the surrounding land was used for housing, which officially established the mosque community layout in Baoding. The West Mosque was renovated many times after the Qing. The bathing room was rebuilt in 1906 (the 23rd year of Guangxu reign), and the north and south lecture halls were rebuilt in the Republican era, creating the current layout.
The hall has two sections. The roof of the rear hall features an octagonal pavilion over 7 meters high, with a couplet that reads, 'The Lord is formless but can be understood by the heart, to leave room for others is a high virtue,' and a horizontal plaque that says, 'Looking toward Mecca (Tianfang).' The roof ridges originally had animal statues, but in the Republican era, Bai Yunzhang, the owner of the famous local halal steamed bun shop Bai Yunzhang Baozipu, paid to have them replaced with flower and plant designs. As a famous mosque in North China, the West Mosque had a thriving religious community and trained many scholars (alim), including Xie Jinqing, Yang Yuzhen, An Shiwei, and Yang Yongchang. The mosque also once had a training ground that produced many famous wrestling masters and martial arts teachers.
32. Baoding East Mosque
The ancient mosques and halal food of Baoding
During the Tongzhi reign, the West Mosque in Baoding became too crowded as the number of worshippers grew, making the hall feel small. Local residents Shi Xie and his son Shi Jun built a scripture room to the east of the West Mosque. A few years later, the famous imam Yan Mingpu oversaw its official completion as the Baoding East Mosque. The Baoding East Mosque was renovated many times. During Guangxu reign, Imam Zhang Ziwen and Mr. Shi Tongshan led the construction of the south lecture hall and the washroom (shuifang). During the Xuantong reign, Imam Xie Jinqing oversaw the building of the north lecture hall, while Shi Changchun and Shi Tongshan managed a full renovation. In 1936, Imam Yang Baozhai led another major restoration. Although the Baoding East Mosque is not large, many well-known imams taught here, including Imam Wang Gui, Imam Li Ba, Imam Zhang Li, and Imam Bai Da, helping to train many talented students. After 1958, the East Mosque was taken over for use as a blueprint paper factory. In 1979, ownership was returned to the West Mosque, and it now serves as a warehouse for the Xinyue Halal Food Factory.
33. Baoding Women's Mosque
The ancient mosques and halal food of Baoding
The Baoding Women's Mosque in Hebei was founded in 1916 in the mosque's north alley by Imam Yan Fengshan from the Baoding East Mosque, with Jin Shiniang from Shandong serving as the prayer leader. In 1932, Imam Sha Zhijun from Jilin was hired to start a halal girls' primary school inside the mosque, which closed after the Japanese occupation in 1937. In 1940, Imam Sha and Elder Shi traveled to Beijing, Tianjin, and Jinan to raise funds. With additional help from local community elders, they bought a house from Bai Yunzhang, the owner of the famous Baoding halal steamed bun shop (baozhi), to build the current Baoding Women's Mosque. The mosque was taken over after 1958. In the 1970s, digging an air-raid shelter under the hall caused structural damage. After it was returned in 1982, the walls began to crack. A new building was constructed on the north side during the 2015 urban renewal project, and the old hall is now used as a storage room.
34. Baoding Zhuozhou Mosque
Going to Zhuozhou, Hebei, for Friday namaz.
Hui Muslims in Zhuozhou, Baoding, Hebei, mainly live in the areas of Ximen North Street and Yingfangqian Street. The area still keeps its traditional courtyard-style housing, and the thick rammed-earth sections of the old Zhuozhou west city wall are still standing near. The local Gao family in Zhuozhou City came here with the Prince of Yan during his northern military campaign in the early Ming Dynasty. The mosque was built during the Yongle period of the Ming, renovated in the 60th year of Kangxi reign of the Qing, and the hall was rebuilt in 2000 to reach its current appearance. In front of the mosque gate stand two 350-year-old Chinese scholar trees (guohuai), and the courtyard holds several 500-year-old Chinese arborvitae (cebai), all of which witness the history of the Zhuozhou mosque.
35. Cangzhou North Mosque
[Halal Travel Review] Hebei Cangzhou in 2016
Hui Muslim merchants began settling in Cangzhou with their families as early as the Yuan. However, during the Jingnan Campaign in 1399 (the first year of the Jianwen reign of the Ming), the Prince of Yan, Zhu Di, led his army to capture the old city of Cangzhou, killing thousands of surrendered soldiers and tens of thousands of residents, and destroying the entire old city. Afterward, the Prince of Yan ordered the city of Cangzhou to be moved to Changlu by the Grand Canal and brought in residents from Shanxi, Shandong, Anhui, and other places to settle, which included many Hui Muslims.
In 1403 (the first year of the Yongle reign of the Ming), Wu Zuoyong, a Hui Muslim from Anhui, was appointed as the Assistant Magistrate of the Cangzhou Salt Transport Commission in Hejian Prefecture, Zhili, and moved to Cangzhou from Shexian County in Huizhou, Anhui. The area near the south gate of Cangzhou was once a key route to the Grand Canal. Many Hui Muslims, mostly craftspeople and small vendors, chose to live here. In 1420, during the 18th year of the Yongle reign of the Ming, the North Mosque of Cangzhou (Cangzhou Beidasi) was completed after Wu Yongzuo donated the land and oversaw its construction. This marked the official beginning of the current Hui community in Cangzhou.
36. Botou Mosque in Cangzhou
[Halal Travel Review] Botou, Hebei in 2017
Botou suffered heavy damage during the Jingnan Campaign in 1399, the first year of the Jianwen reign, and its population dropped sharply. In 1404, the second year of the Yongle reign, Emperor Zhu Di ordered residents to move to Cangzhou, which brought many Hui Muslims to Botou. Records show that seven Hui families—Yang, Cao, Dai, Hui, Zhang, Wang, and Shi—moved to Botou by imperial decree in 1404 from Erlanggang, Shangyuan County, Yingtian Prefecture in Nanjing. The first Botou Mosque was also built that year.
After that, more Hui Muslims moved here from Shandong, Shanxi, and Anhui. Botou Mosque underwent a large-scale expansion during the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, which gave it the layout it has now.
37. Hongguanying Mosque in Xingtai.
The ancient canal city of Linqing, Shandong.
Hongguanying Mosque is in Linxi County, Xingtai, Hebei, just across the Wei Canal from Linqing. Hongguanying is named after the Hong family of Hui Muslims. According to the Hong Family Genealogy of Linqing, the ancestor of the Hong Hui Muslims was Sayyid Ajjal Shams al-Din. His sixth-generation descendant, Hong Badan, served as an official in Linqing during the Ming. His descendants took Hong as their surname and settled in Linqing. One branch settled in the urban area of Linqing and built the Hong Family Mosque (North Mosque). Another branch settled in Hongguanying Village and built the Hongguanying Mosque. Hongguanying Mosque was built between the Xuande and Tianshun periods of the Ming. It was burned down in 1854 (the fourth year of the Xianfeng reign) during the Northern Expedition of the Taiping Rebellion, and it was rebuilt in its current form in 1874 (the thirteenth year of the Tongzhi reign). We were warmly welcomed at Hongguanying Mosque by Imam Lan. He is a talented Arabic calligrapher, and his scripture paintings and stone carvings are truly impressive.
38. Shanhaiguan Mosque in Qinhuangdao
In July, I visited the mosque, the sea, and the Great Wall in Shanhaiguan.
Shanhaiguan Mosque in Qinhuangdao, Hebei, sits just outside the west gate of the Shanhaiguan fortress. According to the Kangxi-era Records of Shanhaiguan, in the first month of 1381 (the 14th year of the Hongwu reign), General Xu Da sent 15,100 soldiers from the Yanshan Garrison to build 32 passes, including Yongping and Jieling. People say the original Shanhaiguan Mosque was built by the Hui Muslim soldiers brought by Xu Da. Because of this, the local Hui Muslims in Shanhaiguan have a saying: The mosque came before the Shanhaiguan Pass. The current hall of the mosque was rebuilt between 1998 and 2003. In the courtyard, there is a 600-year-old Chinese pine (yousong) planted when the mosque was built, along with a Chinese arborvitae (cebai) planted at the same time. The north wing of the mosque houses Ming and Qing dynasty brick and wood carvings removed during the 1998 renovation, and some old-fashioned mantel clocks.
Beijing
39. Gubeikou Mosque in Miyun
Visiting the old mosque in Gubeikou
Gubeikou Mosque is in Hexi Village, Gubeikou, Miyun, Beijing. Its original construction date is unknown, but a stone tablet from the Ming Chongzhen era inside the mosque says it was rebuilt in the second year of Chongzhen (1629). During the Kangxi era, Gubeikou was a key military site for Kangxi’s campaigns against the Dzungars. It was also an imperial road for his northern hunting trips and inspections, making it very important. In the 34th year of Kangxi (1695), a Hui Muslim military officer named Ma Jinliang was promoted to commander-in-chief of Gubeikou in Zhili due to his outstanding battle achievements. People called him General Ma the Hui Muslim. While in Gubeikou, Ma Jinliang led the renovation of Gubeikou Mosque. In the ninth year of Tongzhi (1870), Zheng Kuishi, a famous late Qing Dynasty general and the Gubeikou commander at the time, worked with local elders from Rehe, Dage Town (now Fengning, Chengde), and Gubeikou to donate money to rebuild the mosque's kiln hall (yaodian), turning it from one story into two.
As the imperial road fell into disrepair at the end of the Qing, Hexi Village gradually became quiet. After the 1960s, the Gubeikou Mosque was used by the brigade headquarters. It was renovated in 2004 for the Olympics, but it has not resumed religious activities since. Today, the key to the Gubeikou Mosque is held by an elderly Hui Muslim man living next door. I only managed to get inside to visit after I happened to run into him.
40. Mujiayu Mosque in Miyun (rebuilt)
A halal tour around Miyun Reservoir
Mujiayu is located northeast of Miyun's urban area. Historically, it sat on the trade route from Gubeikou and Shixia Ancient City to the center of Miyun. The Hui Muslims with the surname Mu in the village came from Tianmu Village in Tianjin. They moved to Miyun in Qianlong reign, over two hundred years ago.
In 1771 (the 36th year of Qianlong reign), Mu Guobao was arrested for accidentally injuring someone while standing up for justice at a market in Tianjin, but he was rescued by his younger brother while being escorted. The two brothers fled Tianjin and came to Mengjiayu in Miyun (now Nanmujiayu Village) to work. In less than ten years, they built a house, bought land, married, and had children. They founded Mujiayu, and Mu Guobao was the first ancestor to move there. According to research by local scholar Cao Rongxin, Mujiayu originally only had the Mu family. Later, Hui Muslims with the surname Ha fled famine and settled there. In 1958, the construction of the Miyun Reservoir flooded the ancient city of Shixia. Hui Muslims with the surnames Li, Cao, Ma, and Zhang from the ancient city, along with the Mu family from Qianchao Duzhuang (whose first ancestor was the younger brother of Mu Guobao), all moved to Mujiayu. This eventually created the current size of Mujiayu.
Mu Chaoyu, the son of the first ancestor Mu Guobao, built the Mujiayu Mosque on a small hill by the river east of the village in his later years. In 1946, the Mujiayu Mosque was seized by the armed landlord group Huohui from West Mujiayu. It was destroyed in 1948 during the liberation of Miyun, and only two pine trees remain now. After 1949, Mujiayu used compensation money to build six rooms on the west side of the village. They originally planned to rebuild the hall, but the project failed due to road construction. Later, the mosque buildings were occupied by a collective canteen and other units. It was not until 1991 that the Mujiayu Mosque was finally rebuilt on the west side of the road in the west of the village. The Mujiayu Mosque was demolished and rebuilt again in 2023. What I am showing now is the Mujiayu Mosque before it was rebuilt.
41. Changping Nankou Village Mosque
Visiting seven ancient mosques during Ramadan.
Nankou is the first gateway for Beijing to reach Datong, Xuanhua, and the Mongolian grasslands via the Jundu Pass, one of the eight passes of the Taihang Mountains. It was also the final line of defense for the capital and has been a strategic military location since ancient times. To defend against Mongol invasions, the Ming built Nankou City in 1404 (the second year of the Yongle reign), and it was renovated many times later. After the Qing, trade with the grasslands flourished, filling Nankou City with shops and a constant stream of merchants and travelers. After the Beijing-Zhangjiakou Railway was completed in 1909, the commercial importance of Nankou City was gradually replaced by Nankou Town, where the railway station was located.
Nankou Mosque is located outside the south gate of Nankou City. Its exact founding date is unknown, but it is estimated to have been built during the Ming. The mosque houses a stone tablet from the 20th year of Guangxu reign (1894) titled 'Record of the Renovation of the Nankou Mosque in Yanqing Prefecture.' It records that Imam Yang Xiaoshan from Shixia City in Miyun was hired by Nankou Mosque in 1876. He traveled everywhere to raise donations (nietie), and then renovated the south lecture hall in 1879, the north quiet room in 1880, and built a water well in 1881. In 1887, Imam Yang was hired by Shacheng Mosque in Huailai County, and Nankou Mosque hired Imam Shan Hong'en, who continued to build a water room next to the well and a main gate in the northeast corner. The current Nankou Mosque generally keeps the layout from its renovation in Guangxu reign.
Nankou Mosque closed in 1958 and has not opened since. In 2005, the Changping District Cultural Relics Management Office renovated the hall and the north quiet room. They planned to open it afterward, but it has remained closed due to disputes over the mosque's property. The Changping District Cultural Relics Management Office repaired the mosque again between 2020 and 2021.
42. Changping Wujie Mosque
Visiting seven ancient mosques during Ramadan.
Changping Wujie Mosque is also called Changping City Mosque. Legend says it was built by Chang Yuchun during his northern military campaign. It was rebuilt in the Wanli reign using stone and wood left over from building the Ming Tombs. The golden nanmu wood beams and pillars in the hall still remain now.
Changping Wujie Mosque is now the only Jahriyya mosque in Beijing. The prayer rug used by Imam Jin Zichang is still kept inside the mosque. Imam Jin Zichang comes from the Jinjiadian Daotang in Jinan, Shandong. He is the Eastern Rais of the Jahriyya and manages the religious affairs of the Jahriyya in Jiangsu, Shandong, Hebei, and the three northeastern provinces. Imam Jin's ancestor, Jin Shizhang, joined Ma Mingxin in 1770 to study Jahriyya teachings. He was later appointed as the Rais in charge of religious affairs in Shandong, Zhili, and Jiangsu, and he founded the Jinjiadian Daotang in Xiguan, Jinan. Imam Jin's great-grandfather, Jin Zhong, once managed the religious affairs of the Nanshangpo Mosque outside Chaoyangmen in Beijing and the Wujie Mosque in Changping. His grandfather, Jin Shiyi, became the Rais of the Jahriyya in Xinjiang in 1912 and helped expand the Nanda Mosque in Urumqi.
43. Heying Mosque in Changping
Visiting the tomb of the Western Region sage Bo Hazhi
The tomb of the Western Region sage Bo Hazhi is in Heying, Changping, Beijing. Locals also call it the Sheikh Baba grave. Records say Bo Hazhi came from Medina and arrived in China to spread the faith in the early years of the Hongwu reign of the Ming. He eventually passed away in Heying, Changping, and is deeply respected by Hui Muslims. Local legends say Bo Hazhi killed a giant python on Mangshan Mountain to save the people, and that he appeared in white robes to protect villagers from soldiers when the rebel leader Chuang Wang marched on Beijing.
In front of the tomb of Bo Hazhi, there are five stone tablets from the Ming and Qing dynasties. The people who set them up include General Yang Yingrui, a Hui Muslim from Niujie in Beijing during the Ming dynasty; General Ma Fang, a legendary Hui Muslim who won many battles in the mid-Ming dynasty; and Ma Jinliang, a famous Hui Muslim officer from the early Qing dynasty. The cemetery holds 68 ancient cypress trees from the Ming dynasty. Outside of the Ming Tombs, this is the best-preserved collection of Ming-era trees in Changping.
A local Hui Muslim family named Zhang has guarded the tomb of Bo Hazhi for generations. Today, the guardians are Zhang Youjin and his wife. On the south side of the cemetery stands Heying Mosque (Heying Si), built by the Zhang family in the 1930s. The imam of Heying Mosque was forced to leave after the 1960s, and since then, the building has mainly been used for visiting graves and funeral rites (mayiti). When policies were updated in the 1980s, Heying Mosque was not included in the heritage protection area along with the tomb of Bo Hazhi, so it still does not have official status as a cultural relic. Heying Mosque is now being repaired step by step, and the north building has been rebuilt.
According to a tablet record from the first year of the Xuantong reign, officials and Hui Muslims from past dynasties have come here every year on the 24th day of the third lunar month to pay respects and visit the grave, a tradition that has lasted a long time. From the Ming dynasty until now, Hui Muslims from the local area and near have come to visit the grave of the Sheikh Baba (Shaihai Baba) on the 24th day of the third lunar month without fail. On this day, we invite the imam from a near mosque to lead the scripture reading and closing prayers. The villagers slaughter sheep to make meat porridge and fry dough fritters (youxiang), making it a very grand occasion.
44. Shahe Mosque in Changping
Visiting seven ancient mosques during Ramadan.
During the Wanli reign of the Ming, the northern capital road to Zhangjiakou moved to Shahe. Hui Muslims who traded cattle and sheep began to settle in Shahe. Shahe Mosque was built during the Ming and was renovated twice, once in Guangxu reign of the Qing and once in the Republican era.
The renovation stele from the 31st year of Guangxu reign (1905) on the north side of the hall's porch records the mosque's renovation process between 1895 and 1905. The text notes that at the time, the local sheep market donated five wen from the sale of every sheep, and one hundred wen from every cow and camel, to cover the mosque's various expenses. The 1920 renovation stele on the south side of the porch records that the mosque renovated its water room in 1917. Later, they collected donations (nieti) to build the rear hall and a Western-style gate in 1920. The first donor mentioned is the Republic-era Hui Muslim general Yang Kaijia. His ancestral home was Dachang, Hebei, and he served for a long time as a military guard for Yuan Shikai. He was promoted to lieutenant general for his many contributions. Most of the names that follow are various businesses, many from Madian outside Deshengmen. The most famous one among them is likely Donglaishun.
45. Xiguanshi Mosque in Changping
Xiguanshi Mosque
Visiting old mosques in Beijing during the Islamic New Year
Xiguanshi Mosque in Changping, Beijing, was built in 1494 (the seventh year of the Hongzhi reign of the Ming). The hall was rebuilt in 1709 (the forty-eighth year of Kangxi reign), the main gate in 1723 (the first year of the Yongzheng reign), the hall rooms in 1732 (the tenth year of the Yongzheng reign), and the kiln hall (yaodian) in 1761 (the twenty-sixth year of Qianlong reign). It was renovated many times in Guangxu reign and the Republican era.
On August 15, 1900, the Eight-Nation Alliance entered Beijing. Empress Dowager Cixi and the Guangxu Emperor left the city to head west, arriving at Xiguanshi by evening. Hui Muslim Li Xilun from Xiguanshi led a group to welcome the imperial party south of the village. He guided Cixi and her entourage to stay at Xiguanshi Mosque, where they were received by Imam Cai Wanchun. Afterward, Empress Dowager Cixi slept in the hall, Emperor Guangxu and his consorts slept in the side halls, and the rest of the group stayed in near private homes. The next day, Li Xijun, the owner of the Xiguangyu Escort Agency in Xiguanshi, prepared twenty mule-drawn sedan chairs, several silver ingots, and grain for Cixi’s group. A villager named Yang Juchuan volunteered to lead the way, and Li Jintang provided protection for the journey to the next stop. Two years later, Cixi returned to Beijing and donated silver to renovate the Xiguanshi mosque. She also ordered the imperial kilns at Liulihe to fire glazed tiles, roof finials, and ridge beasts, which were gifted to the Xiguanshi mosque and the mosque in Gaotou Village, Wuji County, the hometown of Imam Cai Wanchun.
Cixi inscribed a plaque for the Xiguanshi mosque that read 'Linggan Zhaozhu' (Manifestation of Spiritual Inspiration), Guangxu inscribed 'Zhongshu Qinshang' (Loyalty Dedicated to the Sovereign), Prince Su Shanqi inscribed 'Qingxu Weidao' (Pure and Void Taste of the Way), and Prince Li inscribed 'Aomiao Wuqiong' (Infinite Profundity). She also bestowed the title 'Marquis of Leading the Way' upon Yang Juchuan for his service, and granted Li Jintang the rank of a second-grade official with a peacock feather, serving as a candidate for a circuit intendant in Zhejiang. Others, including village elder Li Xilun and Imam Cai Wanchun, were awarded fifth, sixth, and seventh-grade official buttons. In 1958, when the communal canteen was established, the plaques from the hall were taken down and used as cutting boards, and their whereabouts are now unknown. After the 1960s, the hall was turned into a warehouse, and all the plaques and couplets were burned. Every building except for the hall and the front gate was demolished, until the site was restored and reopened in 1982.
46. Anheqiao Mosque in Haidian
Anheqiao Mosque in Haidian, Beijing, sits by Xiangshan Road at the southern foot of Hongshan Mountain. It was built at the end of the Ming. During Kangxi reign, the Qing built the Three Hills and Five Gardens in western Beijing. Many Hui Muslims settled in Anheqiao and expanded the mosque. It had several renovations during the Qianlong and Guangxu periods and the Republican era. In 1950, the mosque moved to make way for the Jingmi Diversion Canal. It moved again between 2003 and 2005 due to the construction of the Fifth Ring Road, resulting in its current four-story, octagonal pavilion-style hall.
47. Shucun Mosque in Haidian
Visiting old mosques in Beijing during autumn
Shucun Mosque in Beijing is located outside the north gate of the Old Summer Palace. It was built during the Kangxi (or possibly Yongzheng) reign. In 1873 (the 12th year of the Tongzhi reign), a eunuch named Ma donated 300 taels of silver. Hui Muslims from the local community and surrounding areas—including Sanjiadian, Xiguanshi, Anheqiao, Shangqinghe, Siwangfu, Landianchang, outside Deshengmen, and Xuanhua Prefecture in Zhangjiakou—raised over 2,000 taels of silver to restore it. In the early years of the Republic, a family named Shen from outside Deshengmen donated 2,000 silver dollars and asked a village elder named Man from Shucun to lead the renovation of the hall. Shucun Mosque was occupied in the 1950s and damaged in the 1960s. It resumed activities in 1983 and has had several renovations since. Shucun Village has been demolished, and the villagers have moved into apartment buildings. The mosque grounds hold two ancient cypress trees from the Qing, one dead and one alive. Also a plaque inscribed with the words "Heaven is close at hand" (tiantang zhichi), gifted by a fourth-rank imperial bodyguard in 1873 during a renovation.
48. Haidian Madian Mosque
Madian is on the Jingbei Avenue outside Deshengmen in Beijing. Since the Ming and Qing dynasties, it has been a hub for cattle and sheep trading with a large population of Hui Muslims. The number of Hui Muslims here is no less than that of Niujie. After the Qing, hundreds of thousands of cattle, sheep, and horses entered Beijing from Mongolia via Zhangjiakou every year. Hui Muslims in Madian opened many horse and sheep shops to feed and sell these animals for a commission. Madian Mosque was built in Kangxi reign. In 1850 (the 30th year of the Daoguang reign), it was renovated with funds raised by over ten sheep and horse shops in Madian, and it was renovated again in the Republican era.
The ceremonial gate of Madian Mosque features a ridged hip-and-gable roof and a carved stone arched doorway. The hanging flower gate (chuihuamen) has a curved-shed gable-and-hip roof, and the lintels are has blue-green paintings. The hall uses a raised-beam timber frame and is spacious and bright. The arched door in front of the kiln hall (yaodian) is painted with intertwined passion flower patterns.
49. Haidian Mosque
Haidian Mosque in Beijing was built in Kangxi reign. Then, Hui Muslims from Tongzhou came to Haidian Town to sell fish and settled there. Haidian Mosque was expanded several times during the Jiaqing, Guangxu, and Republican periods. At its peak, it covered over 30 mu of land and included a vegetable garden and a cemetery. It was rebuilt into its current form in 1995. The hall consists of a curved shed, a hall, and a kiln hall (yaodian). The kiln hall has a four-cornered pointed roof with green and yellow glazed tiles with trimmed edges. There are many schools around Haidian Mosque. Every Friday prayer (Jumu'ah), hundreds of international students attend. When it is crowded, the basement, lobby, and courtyard are all packed with people, which is a spectacular sight.
50. Haidian Siwangfu Mosque
Visiting old mosques in Beijing during autumn
The Siwangfu Mosque in Haidian, Beijing, sits east of the Fragrant Hills Botanical Garden. It is shared by Hui Muslims from five near communities: Fragrant Hills (Xiangshan), Siwangfu, Mentou, Nanhetan, and Xiaotun. Legend says the Siwangfu Mosque was founded during the Qianlong era by elders from Houmenqiao and the local community. It was renovated in the Republican era, but closed in the 1960s, leaving the hall on the verge of collapse. After religious policy returned in the 1980s, the hall was torn down and its wood and bricks were sold. The north rooms and surrounding walls were rebuilt, and namaz was held in the north rooms instead. Through the hard work of local elders, the hall was finally rebuilt in 1990. Due to a construction error, the hall was moved to the east of its original site, which created the layout we see now. The courtyard is clean and tidy now, offering a glimpse of what the outskirts of Beijing felt like before.
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Halal Food Guide: Beijing New Restaurants - Turkish, Tunisian and Local Eats (Part 2)
Reposted from the web
Summary: Beijing New Restaurants - Turkish, Tunisian and Local Eats (Part 2) is presented as a photo-based continuation of the original Chinese post, keeping the images in their original order. The entry is organized for readers looking for Beijing Halal Food, New Restaurants, Muslim Travel without adding new claims beyond the source material.
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Summary: Beijing New Restaurants - Turkish, Tunisian and Local Eats (Part 2) is presented as a photo-based continuation of the original Chinese post, keeping the images in their original order. The entry is organized for readers looking for Beijing Halal Food, New Restaurants, Muslim Travel without adding new claims beyond the source material.
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